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john hansen
climber
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Aug 23, 2010 - 07:16pm PT
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Ah yes,, when I was new here and asked way too many stupid questions..
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Aug 24, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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Thanks for that Mark, I wondered what was meant by continuous loop.
That slippery knott...why so many loops, seems like you would only need half that many?
I haven't tested it, just wondering.
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Brian
climber
California
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Aug 24, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
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Nice system Mark! Thanks.
Brian
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Aug 24, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Cool trick ...and also not to be confused with the MDK (Maidy's Death Knot). -My version of the Texas rope trick that is vaguely similar except you are hanging your body off the end and can die. I opt for excess loops on that as well ;)
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
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Shack,
No real reason. On a traversing pitch, the weight of the rope can sometimes pull a few loops out, I figured more loops the better.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Aug 24, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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Yea, I could see that, good thinkin'.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Aug 25, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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Well done.
Thanks!
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Aug 25, 2010 - 01:28am PT
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Good vid, Mark--I may never solo a big-wall, but your tutorial is educational, none-the-less--thanks for posting it...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Aug 25, 2010 - 05:52am PT
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Looks very clever. Kudos.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Aug 25, 2010 - 08:40am PT
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thanks for the effort mark.
i will benefit from your experiences.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Aug 25, 2010 - 09:15am PT
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Cool vid Mark.
Thanks for the effort and the share!
Seems pretty slick.
Cheers,
DD
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 10:48am PT
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BTW in the vid I say "my" slippery knot technique. I didn't mean to imply that I invented any of it. It's all right out of the PTPP playbook.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 25, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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So the loop is continuous except for the big knots that attach the ropes to the anchor right?
Why is it called continous?
Solo tagging allways seemed like a bad idea to me. Mike, Ammon, bobo, Aaron all confirmed this. There's enough experience between them that one should take head. Glad it worked for you.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
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I don't know why it's called "continuous". I can't see why having extra gear, food, water and clothing conveniently tucked away in a pack ready at your disposal is a bad idea.
What's bad about it? Do you know what they are worried about, Lambone?
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 25, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
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Thanks Mark!
I am working on my solo aid technique and really appreciate your instruction . . . seems that there are lots of variables. My first effort last weekend was on the Aid Crack, aka "Morning Glory" (Free Version) at the Ophir Wall. I was using a clove hitch backed up with an overhand knot tie off loop and ended up taking a surprise 15 foot whipper when a wired stopper placement fractured off a chunk of rock on one side of the crack it was placed in. It all happened so quickly and I was caught fairly softly. The clove hitch was difficult to loosen after the impact force had tightened it though. So I have a few questions for your bad self:
1. What is your preferred belay device?
2. How many back up loops do you use?
3. What do you do to prevent the weight of the lead rope from pulling itself back down toward the anchor?
Thanks for your help and willingness to share the techniques you have been using.
Peace.
Greg
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
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Greg,
I used a Gri-gri but if your intended route has a lot of free climbing on it I think I'd use a Silent Partner (I've never used one BTW but I hear that they are better for that)
I used only one back up knot, I'd pull up twenty feet or so of slack, tie a knot there and clip it to my harness. Retie as needed.
A Kleimhiest knot. Give me a day or two and I'll do a vid on this and my anchor set up technique.
Cheers,
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 25, 2010 - 01:56pm PT
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Thanks, great video. Makes sense now that I actually see it... PTPP has some weird brain stuff.
Looking forward to see the selfbelay system you use, probably a lot safer than what I was rocking :(
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Aug 25, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
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Not to get confused ... Rather than calling it a demo of the continuous loop method, I think it is a video of continuous loop method with tagging!
I use the continuous loop most of the time when aid soloing but rarely tag. It is still the continuous loop method. Hopefully, that makes sense!
The reason why it is called continuous loop is that the rope goes from the anchor to the climber and back to the anchor so it's kind of like a continuous loop! The climber is never attached directly to the rope, only by a grigri, silent partner, etc.
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Gene
Social climber
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Aug 25, 2010 - 02:05pm PT
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The climber is never attached directly to the rope, only by a grigri, silent partner, etc. ... and backup knot.
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