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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
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I had moved to Bend a year before and was climbing at Smith a lot with Mr E. We heard about a commercial that was going to be shot at the Smith, I cant remember but I think you told me about it, Erik?
Anyways we got hired for like 5 days with about 15 other guys to carry camera gear and stuff around while they shot this commercial(that I never saw air) all over Smith. We carried gear up the Marsupial road, over Misery Ridge, down by the river, and to the base of Monkey Face. Huge cameras, rigging,lenses, food and water. We got paid pretty good and they had tents and food and drinks. Pretty plush for a bunch of climbing bums.
There was this funny little director and a bunch of cameramen and makeup artists, etc. A real Hollywood set.
The commercial was a cell phone commercial about someone getting injured in the backcountry and then using a cell to get rescued. There were river crossings, injured climbers in caves, and a huge stunt fall out of the mouth of the Monkey.
I cant remember who the climber was who was taking the fall, but he had setup an elaborate zigzag up the bolt ladder with some sort of shock absorbing runners. The cameras had been set up in the mouth out on a triangular tubular aluminum rig that hung out over the void about 6 feet.
The climber would hang near the edge of the mouth and let go, falling a good 40 ft before his setup would catch him. Pretty rad.
The equipment had all been run up to the cave on a crazy pulley system that was powered by a 4 wheeler that was mounted to a huge metal platform. The rope was wound around one of the hubs and then up to the summit where it went through a pulley and back to the ground. We would harness up, grab some equipment and secure it. Then I think Todd Skinner(Who was responsible for the rigging and crazy contraption) would fire it up and zip us to the cave. On the way down all that kept us from the ground was the brake on the 4 wheeler. Towards the end as we were breaking down we were getting flown up in seconds....VROOM, VROOM!!! ZOOM!! 10 seconds from the river to the mouth of the Monkey. Todd would hit the brakes and you would keep going up for 6 feet or so then bounce around....what a blast.
I still think we have the record for fastest ascent of the Monkey in some form...
Soon after I helped Erik put up a route he had spotted while we were hanging out on the Monkey as they shot. He named it Schleppin' for Hollywood. 11c
Who else was there?
Who was the stuntman?
Was it Skinner with the 4 wheeler?
Erik, what do you remember?
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Aug 21, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
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Spot on, Walleye.
It was Dave Schultz, and I seem to remember that he had rigged the pulley system from a converted motorcycle. Dave was just recovering from an accident, if I recall correctly.
I also seem to recall that there was a boat that brought gear across the Crooked River from an access road on a ranch on the other side to a position below the monkey? I may be wrong on this...
I forget who the stuntman was, but I was lucky enough to hang out with Dave loading the basket with equipment and people, rather than "Schleppin'" gear from the Crooked River to the base of the monkey.
The route was named after Chinchen, on one of his many trips up to the base quipped:
"I am tired of Schleppin' for Hollywood."
I found the route on a break (probably herbal at that point), on what was later named ""Monkey Butt Wall".
To date, I don't think there are any other routes on the wall, but after submitting it to Alan Watts and the new guide coming out, I apparently placed the anchors in a difficult clipping position. My friend snapped a picture of me on the first ascent:
Thanks for the memories, Jason.
Erik
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2010 - 10:48pm PT
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Yea, Erik, the raft was bringing the gear over from the ranch across the river where they shot that movie with Uma Thurman in it (Even Cowgirls Get the Blues).. The food tents were set up in the field also.
It was definitely a 4 wheeler. The rope was wound around the left rear rim.
Funny I dont remember that I had inadvertantly come up with the name...cool!
Must have been the herbal breaks...
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Aug 22, 2010 - 12:56am PT
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OK, I concede the 4-wheeler...it's funny how the mind remembers things in a different way than what really happened...I guess this is where I have officially reached old-man status and just try and remember.
Walleye, I trust your assessment - I thought (until now) it was an accident, from base-jumping or hang-gliding?
Glad I quit smoking that stuff - it appears to have severely impeded my memory (that's my story, and I am sticking to it). ;-)
From the new Falcon guide to Smith Rock:
5.11c * 7 bolts The shaded left side of the Diamonds and Rust Buttress features a decent sport route on a flat face. Highly technical edges lead to an anchor in the middle of hard climbing. Big holds a few feet higher would make a more logical stopping point.
Maybe some stuff peeled off - I remember the anchor clip being in a good place - may be the memory again...
Note to self: fix next time I am in the area...
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2010 - 12:59am PT
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You cant get em all right the first time...I remember that route being a sandbag. ;)
Looking forward to putting a few up with you out here on the East Side. I have been eying a some decent looking lines.....
Your memory is fine, Erik. It was a loong time ago.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Aug 22, 2010 - 01:06am PT
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Nice! Looking forward to seeing you again, Jason. My friends are piling up out there in Bishop - damn. We need to get out there for more than just a visit, know what I mean?
Skip's got her 9-day WFR coming up in November, I'll for sure make that trip.
Meanwhile, I got this Sedona guidebook thing to try and get out there - a lot on the plate right now.
peace, Bro - see you soon.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2010 - 01:58am PT
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Looking forward to meeting your lady and grabbin' some rocks man.
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