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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 31, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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A classic account of the FA of this Black Canyon testpiece! From Mountain 79 May/June 1981.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 31, 2010 - 05:12pm PT
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Steve, it's cool that you're posting the great articles. However, the way that you post them makes them impossible to read. If you upload scans to the SuperTopo site, folks can click on the images to get a readable version.
Just sayin' ...
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Jul 31, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
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sick.
any route that
bouts a team such as
hong and wiggins must be
some route!!!!
i've done some
coyne routes and
none of 'em
are gimme's.
thanks again
s.g.
the egg with leggs.
where did that come from?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
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Try the 200% setting on your screen for the text. I try to keep the file sizes resonable when scanning and posting all these articles.
Very nice topo link, Jack!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 31, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
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Hmm, the text just looks more fuzzy when I zoom in. I can read it, but it's not easy, and after a couple of para's, I skip it. That's why I suggest uploading to the ST site, they shrink it in the post, then you can click to expand it. Just a suggestion...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
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Epic Bump!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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I love all of the stories associated with Leonard and fellow Colorado Springs climbers. I don't remember reading the article, but Air Voyage absolutely captured my imagination. I consider leading the thing in 1990 or thereabouts one of my best achievements.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
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Very proud send!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
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Adventure Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
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Big Bad Bump for the Blackness!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 15, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
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Thanks for these Steve. Did you ever climb there?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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I am sorry to say that I never went into the Black...but there is still time.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Mar 17, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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.
.
. ((( ( shriv ))))
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Mar 17, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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My Air Voyage experience:
Recollection is somewhat vague, maybe my subconscious is blocking out the memories.
A very excitable partner, who tended to treat me as some sort of subordinate.
Ticks, heat, dehydration.
An argument somewhere in the middle, two people tied together and screaming at each other.
Haul line significantly shorter than the lead rope, making the last bit of each pitch both exciting and hard.
Rescue from above by miraculous appearance of two full ropes tied together.
300 ft jug to the top, the canyon spinning around below me.
For some reason I never went back to the Black.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 17, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
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I've been on it three times. The first two times (early 1990s), without any big gear, it went down fine. The last time, with big cams, I couldn't lead it. It's a real test piece. I'm hoping to get on it again before too long.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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Great story Greg.
Take any photos?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Mar 17, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
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So, between my 3 different partners and I, we only took a camera on the first. That's because it was with Clean Dan. I rarely brought a camera along until recently, and only occasionally. Clean Dan always brought one along and always took pictures. I remember switching off with him on being the one taking pictures. Clean Dan dropped the camera into a chimney at some point more than half-way up, but we (I) were (was) able to retrieve it and the camera was fine as I recall. So, Clean Dan is no longer with us, but I have had access to most of his slides, or so I thought, but I never found the Air Voyage slides. Too bad!
By the way, when I say no big gear, I meant no big gear that I actually placed. I had some big bros or tube chocks possibly, but never placed them. There was a fixed tube chock 20 to 25 feet up. From there, I just found a nice rhythm for next 35 to 40 feet. If I stopped to place, it would have been all over. Tom Dickey remembers from the second ascent.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 04:50pm PT
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Big Black Canyon Bump...
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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