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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 29, 2010 - 12:21pm PT
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Mendel sits above Darwin Canyon, to the west (easy approach). Take trail from North Lake TH to Lamarck Col. At the top of the col, you'll easily spot Mendel (sits right of Mt. Darwin).
Said route intially climbs the NE Face (steep) to a notch on the NE Ridge. The route pretty much follows the ridge to the west and eventually to the summit. The best descent is to go down the East Face of Mendel (3rd class but loose!.....scene of a fatality 4 years ago). Return to Darwin Canyon then slog back up to Lamarck Col and back to the TH.
Done thisun twice.....once during the Sierra Challenge (car-to-car) and with Mrs. Mooch, who loved the steep exposure. Great solo scramble.
Route description on summitpost.org:
http://www.summitpost.org/route/166630/northeast-ridge.html
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
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Noth Ridge of Spearhead in RMNP is super fun and seemed easier than the 5.6 rating. I also hear Blitzen ridge on Yipsilon is good.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Apr 30, 2010 - 12:42am PT
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bump for classic and easy.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Apr 30, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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White Maiden's Walkway, 5.1, Tahquitz. It's quite a workout for 5.1. Beautiful climb. Pretty steep for that rating too. Lots of holds and ledges everywhere though.
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qigongclimber
climber
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Apr 30, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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ok. this isn't mountaineering and i only have slides, not a digitized image. However, i just have to say that one of the best climbs anywhere for sheer joy of climbing is Ellingwood in the Wind Rivers -- 17 pitches of 5.6.
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adam d
climber
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Apr 30, 2010 - 01:38am PT
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^^^^
Ellingwood Arete pics
A wonderful climb. the middle ~800 feet are very clean and enjoyable. Lots of other (harder) potential on that face.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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The very underappreciated classic of Cabezon Peak!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Hey, where is that Cabezon Pk? Looks like AZ.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Muir Route on Mt. Ritter. A fine day in the mountains.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Up the U-notch and over to North Pal is fun and a mix bag of mountain travel.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Hey survival
Regarding your first photo of Cabezon... We climbed the middle of that rock face that faces the camera back in 1993 or 1994.
The last pitch was sick. It is crumbling vertical volcanic ash with a peppering of volcanic rocks (like a conglomerate). You can see the ash band as reddish-brown stripe on top in your photo.
My brother led that pitch solo wthout a belay, since there wasn't any protection. He climbed a body crack/chimney, almost like climbing vertical dirt. We took cover below and hid out of the way, since he was sending down such a barrage of rocks.
Once he got to the top, he found just a steep slope of volcanic scree, so there was no belay on the summit, either. We didn't find out that there wasn't a below from up above until we reached the top ourselves. My brother was just sitting there on loose scree with the rope wrapped around his waist, a big sh#t-eating grin on his face. He had warned us not to fall, and we were too scared to even think about falling.
It was maybe 5.7 or 5.8 max.
Easy/fun mountaineering - West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
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sjellison
Mountain climber
Range of Light
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Moved to Boulder 3 weeks ago and I'm still sh#tting my pants.
100's of 1000s of feet of easy scrambling!
Also, Picacho Peak near Tucson is super fun Via Ferrata too!
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Todd Townsend
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 11:35pm PT
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A local's favorite around Bishop is the Southeast Face Route on Mt Emerson, 5.4 with a lot of 3rd class and some exposure.
I personally had a lot of fun on Dragon Peak last year. Class 3, according to Secor. YMMV!
Just don't look down and you'll be fine!
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Todd Townsend
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 24, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Oh yeah, and I almost forgot. The best true Class 3 route that I've climbed: Middle Palisade. Cool approach, good rock, sweet summit, sustained fun!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
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Jan 25, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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I love the middle pal. I think I did a class 4 route, though.
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