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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Oct 29, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
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Yeah, that thing was the BB. Came from Galibier, concurrent with
RD and PA. It was way wider than a PA (which came in two widths,
gold stitching for narrow, black stitching for not so narrow)
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scuffy b
climber
Where only the cracks are dry
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Mar 29, 2010 - 07:41pm PT
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I was poking around there yesterday...
the start, which I had thought looked pretty scary,
turns out to be very much like Big Grunt (Woodson) but not so many
OW moves before getting into the squeeze.
Also, you can chimney on over to the right side at that point.
The upper part is dripping these days.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
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Fresh pictures. I suspected I was not climbing it the 'proper' way, so I'll need to go back and play around in the lower squeeze. The swing from the TR isn't that bad as long as you thread the rope behind the lower part of the flake to start. There's nothing to hit and you can tension back over if you don't do the route clean.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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topical wide bump
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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I went back last weekend and climbed the lower section properly. It's pretty fun figuring out how to do the first bit! It seemed to me that the crux of the route was exiting the squeeze and re-establishing yourself in a lieback or in the hand-stack section above as I struggled there for some time and took a little spill at one point (my bad). Seeing the video of myself, I can see that I also need to work on my footwork :-)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
By the way, this way is definitely the way to lead it. You can protect the entry with a big bro and you could protect the exit from the squeeze with a #5 or #6 C4. Much better than the burly lieback with no pro!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Pulling out of the squeeze the crack is too wide to hand-stack until you can get your hips above that little 'roof' so I needed to do a combination of insecure armbars and side-pulls as I leaned my torso around the constriction and got my hips up, and then a lieback to get up the final bit until I could throw a leg in there. It was still just a little too wide for good hand stacks for a few more moves after that but at least you've got a semi-secure leg in there!
It's funny but the topo lists the roof higher up as the 5.10b crux. Perhaps it is from an endurance standpoint but if from a technical standpoint I felt like the crux for the entire route was escaping the squeeze.
Fortunately despite the seriousness of the route, the Tenaya Lake FWA had a walk off descent :-)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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at around 1:45 your harness/knot attachment is an issue, a swami is nice because the knot can be moved around, and your not falling, anyway...
if you liked that you should do Gollum, Left Side which is a bit easier...
good show!
(I thought the crux was the ant tree you had to go around to get to the thing, repelled my last soiree there)
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
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Yeah, the knot got pretty caught there and I was wishing I had tied it in a longer loop! Now I know for next time. I kept blowing out my feet as I tried to push my way through it and ended up more tired than necessary since I couldn't get my hips in as early. My climbing harness is slowly turning into a swami on its own as the rear leg loop stirrups have worn away :-)
The ants were really biting this day so we kept the belay further away from the route.
Gollum, Left is awesome! More intimidating since you're much higher off the ground but that crux definitely seemed easier. Worth the effort to top rope (if you're a sissy like me) but it looks like it protects well with a #6 cam. Maybe I can muster the nerve to give leading it a shot this Fall.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 21, 2012 - 02:34am PT
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Wyde bump!!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 21, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
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Thanks for posting that video.
Maybe I'll sound like a broken record, but...
It looks like that little roof turns the squeeze chimney into a perfect
arm bar crack, and you're unaware of your good fortune.
I think, really, when you're in a beautiful square cut corner like that,
stacks are your best option a small percentage of the time.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 27, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
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I've finally been starting to see the light, I think. When I did round 2 on Chingando I didn't stack my hands. I didn't even notice where that part was supposed to be, so I guess I didn't really miss doing it :-)
[Edit: I think maybe part of it had to do with the fact that it was easier to replace or slide cams in front of me while arm-barring.]
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 27, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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yup. I didn't stack on LSOTR or Chingando. .... wonder if the blood and puss is washed away yet?
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 02:15am PT
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Maybe the blood explains the strong streak of lichen emanating out from the crux of the LSOTR? Good fluids!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Mar 14, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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I went up on this the other day and didn't do so hot.
My number one piece of advice is Don't Get Your Knee Stuck, even if it's
just for a little while, at least not if you do it repeatedly.
The climb is really, really good, though.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
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Was it the formerly Karbunkled knee?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Mar 14, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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No, it was the other one.
The carbuncle was unrelated to any stuck knee shenanigans. I got a staph
infection which blew up a little scrape. I haven't had any problems since
that time.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Watched Pellucid video again.
If lead - there obvious placements in the bottom for #9 or to test Merlin8. Short approach wide girls/boys! you need #4 or two to protect rattle fist crux above
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