Parkline bolt replacement

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Greg Barnes

climber

Mar 25, 2010 - 03:30am PT

Thanks for all the hard work!! Drilling and rapping until 2am...that's what a nice relaxing hobby like climbing is all about...

Hey Minerals, I just found four 3/8" hole stainless SMCs in my bolting gear, and I hate using washers so I'll give you those this summer, so we both win from Jeff's generosity! All are in good shape, three of them are painted tan, but the paint is wearing off (after jingling around in my truck for who knows how long...).

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 10:55am PT

Hey Walter!!

You know I did

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 12:03pm PT

Clint, more info. Need more info. Need more info.

I might try to get on your route tomorrow. Whats the rack? Where do the pitches go beyond what you showed in the picture? Does the first pitch start on my route still? Also any rack recommndations for Eagles Eyrie? How big is the corner?

Thanks,
Jeff

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 12:07pm PT

No Walter! But I do have a guy coming in a couple of weeks and he did mention Snake Hike. Would be more like Snake Ski.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Mar 25, 2010 - 02:15pm PT

Jeff,

I will try to get some updated photos up for you. I wouldn't recommend getting on the route immediately, because p4 got inundated with dirt due to an unfortunate "hummock mishap" when following.
Bob: "Don't touch that!"
Clint: "It's OK. ... Ooops!! Oh, man...."

But I know it's getting hotter. Maybe some windy days or some more rain would clean it up.

I also still owe you some recleaning on Dangling Chads p2. I thought it was OK, but noticed when jugging on Saturday that some dirt had gotten into the upper crack, and I didn't have my nut tool at hand to fix it.

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 02:23pm PT

Thanks Clint, I guess I will wait. What are your thoughts on the Eyrie?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Mar 25, 2010 - 03:10pm PT

Jeff,

Below is an improved photo overlay (I can get you the originals for these if you want).
Eagle's Eyrie is great rock on that first full pitch (p1+p2 on overlay).
On p3, (a couple of years back) I messed up and did the right side, which wore me out; the left side is supposed to be much better.
p4 and p5 above that look like an interesting adventure.
p6 and p7 have a lot of moss.
The p8 corner looks really good - would be 2-3 stars if on the ground, but the approach will deter many/most. Width looks to be 2-4", but it was dark when we rapped; we climbed left of it, just to cover some new ground.

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2010 - 01:18am PT

Nice! Thanks Clint!

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Mar 26, 2010 - 01:37am PT

Nice overlays, that summit corner looks really good on EE.

That last pitch on your route must be exposed on that face, is that a splitter I see?

Great photos. Thanks

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Mar 26, 2010 - 02:05am PT

Josh,

On p8 of our route, yes, there is an ow splitter through the bulge.
But there was a thin hand crack to the left, where Bob led through.
Originally, we thought we might be able to climb a crack in the prow
directly below, but it had some hard/closed sections and we didn't have
time to deal with that. Especially with that nice looking 5.10a
corner just to the right.
There also appears to be a Sean Jones route on the steep face / arete
on the left. There's an anchor just below the top of the pinnacle
and a couple of bolts below it. Mega approach to that climb....

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Mar 26, 2010 - 02:38am PT

Yeah I heard about that route, I think 5.13? I could be wrong.

I saw that Ow on the 80mm scope, but it was hard to tell how big the crack was.

Nice looking stone up there.

cragnshag

Social climber

san joser

Mar 26, 2010 - 09:06pm PT

The OW is about 4" to 5" wide. But just left is a thin hands splitter with mega jugs at the lip. Twas not a difficult choice for me to go left!

Hey Clint, did the photo of the Eyrie come out?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Mar 26, 2010 - 09:59pm PT

Bob,

Here's the photo of the eagles' nest. It's 20' right of the belay at end of p8.
The nest is not occupied this year, but it has been active in the recent past, so climbers should watch for the eagles. If they are nesting, Ron Skelton recommends we should not climb Eagle's Eyrie (or the new route) above the level of the block (end of p3 on the topo). That way, the nesting birds will not be disturbed. There are over 2700 other climbs to do in Yosemite!