No Summit Photo For New Route-Claim On Aconcagua

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r and i

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 19, 2010 - 12:00am PT
Forward about this.
Appears Chad Kellogg neglects to provide, any, summit photos for his new-route-claim on Aconcagua December 2009.
---------Forward--------


http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1080339/American_Solos_New_Route_on_Aconcagua

Article.
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19100

The closest to a summit photo is the photo at the top of the article
And here
http://www.explorersweb.com/sitemedia/TSthumbs/20100210xacchad%20hs.jpg

Caption for photo.

""Chad Kellogg on Aconcagua's upper slopes.""
""Image by Chad Kellogg, courtesy Chad Kellogg""

Chad took the above photo of himself.
"Upper slopes" ?
Yet not on the summit.

If Chad Kellog had summit photos wouldn't he have sent them to the media along with his several other photos he sent to the media.

Chad is noted as the source for the articles on himself.
Examples.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10w/newswire-aconcagua-kellogg-solo
At bottom.
""Sources: Chad Kellogg, climbing.com""

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/solo_new_route_on_aconcagua_south_face/
""Sources: Chad Kellogg, American Alpine Journal""

No summit photos provided at any media article.
6 national media articles done. Climbing Magazine, American Alpine Club, Etc.

True summit photos are important for new-route-claims.
Chad sent the media a number of other photos.
But, no summit photos.

Related from the past.
For his Khan Tengri summit-claim.
Two self-photos of himself showing only himself and the sky and no land features.
As detailed here
http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?tsn=3&nav=messages&webtag=ab-climbing&tid=161
Also his own photos linked here
http://www.chadkellogg.com/galleries/khan_tengri/pages/Khan010.htm
http://www.chadkellogg.com/galleries/khan_tengri/pages/Khan009.htm
-------------------
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Feb 19, 2010 - 12:01am PT
Little Danny? Still?
John_Box

Ice climber
Bellingham
Feb 19, 2010 - 12:15am PT
It should be nuked.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Feb 19, 2010 - 12:24am PT
What if his battery went dead? Its very hard to find electrical outlets above 20,000 feet sometimes. There are the solar chargers available but....
adam d

climber
Feb 19, 2010 - 01:01am PT
nice first post dude (under this username). Got an agenda?
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Last clip of Lichen Lunch
Feb 19, 2010 - 01:02am PT
t*r is wise, eh?
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Last clip of Lichen Lunch
Feb 19, 2010 - 01:13am PT
Indeed. Thanks!

Go sweetly. I know you will.
r and i

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
Now established Chad Kellogg, himself, says he did not reach summit for this climb.
http://www.chadkellogg.com/contact

Alpinist.com editor Erik Lambert
http://www.alpinist.com/contact/
states Kellogg did not report reaching the summit in Kellogg's trip report sent to Alpinist. Erik reports he descended after reaching the ridge at the bottom between Aconcagua's two summits.

Appears, most of public believe he completed A Climb, by reaching the summit, after starting from a basecamp.

A Climb reaches the summit (the highest elevation of the mountain).

Chads high point photo shown here
http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19100
http://www.explorersweb.com/sitemedia/TSthumbs/20100210xacchad%20hs.jpg
Again, no features of the mountain shown.

Similar photo problem to his 2003 Khan Tengri summit-claim. Two claimed summit photos show no features of the summit nor mountain.
http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?nav=messages&webtag=ab-climbing&tid=161
http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?tsn=2&nav=messages&webtag=ab-climbing&tid=161

Author Martin Gutmann of Climbing Magazine. www.climbing.com/exclusive/readerblogs/about_martin_gutmann

Article by Martin Gutmann, a contributor to Climbing Magazine, home in Switzerland.

http://www.alpinenotes.blogspot.com/2010/02/the-kellogg-controversy-controversy.html

Titled
The "The Kellogg 'Controversy'" Controversy

1st paragraph of article.

"the Kazakh and Ukrainian dudes at my local climbing gym who wanted to rip my head off when I showed up yesterday for even suggesting that Kellogg was anything but a "crazy American lying dog,"

Kraig Becker, The Adventure Blog, author.
Defends Kellogg as reaching summit.
As shown in comments below the article:
http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/2010/02/chad-kellogg-completes-new-route-on.html

Adventure Junkie said...
I'm simply reporting the news passed along from ExWeb. I have no reason to contact Chad. Until I hear otherwise, this was a successful summit along a new route.

Most of the public believe he did a true climb of Aconcagua. Basecamp to summit.

Recent article by Chad Kellogg
http://outdoorresearchverticulture.com/alpine-and-ice/aconcagua-to-everest-pt-2.html
"by Chad Kellogg"
"This spring, Chad is planning to set a new speed record on Everest."

Planning to set a new record?
Having never climbed Everest previously, nor any mountain near that altitude (eg K2, Anapurna, etc etc)?
Modesty is "hope to attempt a speed climb and hope to set a new record"
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Mar 2, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
Gee I wonder how many of us didn't get a pic at the "real summit" of ElCap? Maybe it doesn't really matter if the last part of a route is just a walk to the top... It is not like Aconcagua hasn't been climbed a zillion times.
But not being a mountaineer may be clouding my judgment, and I know nothing about the situation... so.... don't listen to me guys!
r and i

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
Does Chad Kellogg have integrity?
Proof of not.

http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?tsn=2&nav=messages&webtag=ab-climbing&tid=161

Quote-----


Chad Kellogg publicly responded to his 1998 Rainier controversy on K2climb.net
Bottom of article, last two paragraphs. [Article is about the 2003 Khan Tengri 5 person race, with 3 finishers, race went to 1500 vertical feet short of the summit due to the lack of fixed lines].

http://web.archive.org/web/20050308184722/www.k2climb.net/story/stories/AninterviewwithChadKellogg,recentwinneroftheKhanTengrispeedclimbOct292003.shtml

Chad stated, in a question-answer format interview, in October 2003:

"I plan on climbing Rainier again officially"

But he never did.

Instead, in 2004, he did a Rainier speed climb unofficially, and claimed a new record. He abandoned his public commitment.

Kellog then changed his promise, and wrote on his website, at the bottom of his 2004 report:
http://web.archive.org/web/20041208022401/http://chadkellogg.com/rainier.html

"I intentionally chose to not use any "timing officials" to "officiate" my climb as I believe that climbing community has always relied upon the integrity and reputation of the climber to validate their accomplishments."

K2climb.net interview:
http://web.archive.org/web/20050308184722/www.k2climb.net/story/stories/AninterviewwithChadKellogg,recentwinneroftheKhanTengrispeedclimbOct292003.shtml

ExWeb: "Last question - there's been some controversy over another climber beating your Mount Rainier speed record set a couple of years ago - what are your thoughts on that?"

Chad: "... I plan on climbing Rainer again and trying to reset the standard officially."
--------


Here he uses the idea of integrity, to defend his failure to act with integrity. To keep his public promise.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 2, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
The horror. What, you believe the dude, after climbing a totally sketchy death route on the HUGE south face, doesn't deserve credit for the climb because he didn't tag the same summit that hundreds and hundreds of punter stagger up every year? Really? Do you have a life?
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Mar 2, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
r an i,

why don't you just sppedclimb your ass right on out of here!
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 2, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
Dan A#@&%e. The ultimate leg humper stalker.

F*#k off.

edit
That is classic. The word filter changes H O W I T T to Asshole.
Jingy

Social climber
Nowhere
Mar 2, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
I guess we see what the intent really was...

"nice first post dude (under this username). Got an agenda?"

someone called it right off...

good call
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 2, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Mar 2, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
Dude... you need to learn how to post photos on ST
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Mar 2, 2010 - 05:13pm PT
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 2, 2010 - 05:26pm PT
Dolomite,

Bonington's Annapurna South Face was probably the first mountaineering book I ever bought. I was probably 13 or 14 and it seemed the bomb. That picture exemplified that more than anything else.
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Mar 2, 2010 - 05:37pm PT
Yeah, Fat Dad, I just happened to be rereading Annapurna South Face--one of the great climbs and a really really fine book. Too bad the summit photo wouldn't measure up to r and i's standards of "proof"!!!!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 2, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
I know how to post photos, I also know how to photo nuke a Dan Whorewitt thread... That rat bastard should go find a new obsession.


It's a pity I didn't get in on the first page.
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