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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 19, 2005 - 12:01am PT
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Another "list climb", The Vision, 5.10a, Pennyroyal Arches, Tuolumne Meadows, FA 1970 Tom Higgins and Tom Gerughty.
This is a four pitch climb which follows a face up to the left of the "Great Fissure" so prominent from the road. Reid & Falkenstein have a correct photo and topo.
The first pitch is straight foward with some 5.8 between the top of the knobby right facing corner/arete to the two bolt belay anchors. The corner gets very thin and there really is no pro moving to the bolts. I tied off a couple of crystals, the moves weren't all that bad. The bolts are ASCA with rings, bomber.
Second pitch zigs and zags a bit, bolts are new ASCA up to a left facing corner the top of which is a long ledge. BELAY ON THIS LEDGE. The two adjacent bolts shown on the topo don't look all that good and are not the belay anchor. Roper's "Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" intimates that the belay is on the ledge, stating that there are 3 bolts on the crux pitch, apparently another one was added and the original not removed. The added bolt must have been in the 70's, it has the same antique patina as the original. The third bolt is hard to spot.
The third pitch is the crux, move up on classic Tuolumne gold polish and thin feet and hands. The second bolt does not inspire confidence, you have to step up through a steep section, at this point you are used to the fact that you are standing on really thin edges, bumps and just friction while your fingers feel around for some indentations. You should see the third bolt by now... directly up and in a bit of a dish, the bottom of which is sheer joy to handle. The bolt has a stainless steel SMC hanger on it, I didn't inspect it very carefully because there was nothing I could do except to climb out if it turned out to be mank.... I just didn't need to know that. Now clip and collect your thoughts... move right and up heading for a crack system. Lots of thin stuff, delicate feet, friction... etc. I remember two knobs just below the jam-able part of the crack, but be careful not to abandon your form before you have a that jam. You are only about 10' out from the bolt... so not too bad. Plug some pro and climb up to find a good place to hang on a sling belay. I did that just below the second crack system which is to the left and starts slighty before the one you are in peters out.
The fourth pitch goes up this left crack system to a low angle corner, then to the slabs above.
Take in the view, we scrambled off the slabs to the right (climber's right) which is west, onto a ledge system... a 100' rappel gets you down quickly to more slabs which you can carefully scramble down picking your way to the scree and the brush. This is a little tricky, don't go to far west (did this before), use your common sense... but this is exposed 3rd and 4th class.
I liked this climb. Pennyroyal Arches is a very nice crag.. we saw no one even close today.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 19, 2005 - 12:16am PT
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It's great that those bolts were replaced, when I did The Vision a few years ago, it had the scaries bolts ever.
:- k
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Sep 19, 2005 - 12:18am PT
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Super classic to be sure!!!!
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valygrl
climber
Santa Cruz
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Sep 19, 2005 - 12:58am PT
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K: yup.
A
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 19, 2005 - 10:06am PT
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I did way it back in 77 and those bolts back then didn't inspire a whole lot of confidence. It's a fun climb in a beautiful location. Can't ask for too much more then that.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 19, 2005 - 12:53pm PT
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That route is cosmic.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 19, 2005 - 01:42pm PT
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Very on-topic, helpful and informative post Kartouni. What were you thinking?
Trying to make us look bad eh?
Peace
karl
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Aug 13, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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Really enjoyed the Vision also. Nice off-the-path location. Good go and belated thanks for the write up.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Aug 13, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
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Thanks!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Aug 13, 2010 - 11:20pm PT
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Glad your back at it Ed (pun?).
Restraining the mounting urge to lunge for the crack- I remember that.
I rapped of the top anchor (slung tree) down and left into a slot- some downclinbing and rapped off a nut. A bit awkward.
Are there other good routes there?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 13, 2010 - 11:27pm PT
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Nice Ed! Way to go get it.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Aug 13, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
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Go Ed!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 13, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
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Nice report. I've only seen the area from afar but it has intriguing look.
Z
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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Another eye-opening thought about this excellent route is that, the FA having been done in 1970, that means it was in the piton era (just prior to the advent of the Chouinard wired stoppers), consequently the pro in those shallow rounded often-flaring cracks would not have been stellar. Not that those guys were particularly bothered by poor pro. The other routes on this same buttress/facet of Pennyroyal look excellent too but, as far as I could see, still have original bolts.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Aug 14, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
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hmm, are the bolts new? Around 2005-2006 I remeber them being old 1/4in. Great splitter. The Alchemist it another great route on that buttress. Some really good gold polish climbing with newer bolts. Cucamonga Honey (Lembert) like but the bolts are a little closer.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Aug 14, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
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Ed,
Glad to see your review of the old Vision. It is one of my favorites too, but of course having done the FA with Tom I'm biased, I guess. I also think another FA, Piece de Resistance, is a good route on Fairview, but people tell me nope, too flakey on the crux. O well.
The walk in felt magical to us, as we went away from the crowds and hiked across lovely slabs with streaming water then onto the arches with some of the best glacier polish around. The rock gleams above you like, well, a vision, depending on the time of day.
As I recall the crux, there are pretty good flakes to work with, though I pulled one off once in a repeat ascent, so again my judgment on the point of rock quality may be tainted. The last move is a stem to a good foothold and, yes, good to keep concentrating on your feet and resist a rushed move to get into the crack and get done. Lost form here can spill you. At that point, I think maybe you are a bit further out than 10 feet, but not much.
Regarding the descent, Tom and I did a walk off east not west and followed a ledge overlap system filled with flowers and maybe a little stream, if I remember correctly. Somewhere there we looked back at the glowing polish in the afternoon sun and both got the "vision" again. Tom came up with the name and did I ever agree.
All - enjoy!
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 05:29pm PT
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I keeping looking at that crag, Pennyroyal, when I'm out there and I have still yet to do it. I guess I'm saving it...but it's on my 'list'.
Good stuff Ed. And Tom.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Aug 14, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
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One of my favorites, the smell of pennyroyal anywhere brings back geat memories of my first summer in TM with my wife to be on the Vision. Thanks Ed for the reflection today as I remain here in office bondage ;^(
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
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> hmm, are the bolts new? Around 2005-2006 I remeber them being old 1/4in.
From the other thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1240422/Tmds-The-Vision
Greg Barnes replaced all the bolts on the Vision except on p3, in 2002. On 8/19/2006, Bruce Hildenbrand and I replaced the (two) bolts on p3, so The Vision bolts are all replaced now.
Bruce also replaced the only remaining 1/4" bolt on Alchemists's Re-vision p3 that day. Higher bolts on Alchemist's Re-vision were 5/16" with one 3/8" at a belay.
More notes from my trip report:
"Note for future rebolters: the bolts on p1 of Ooze and Ahs are still 1/4", as is the first bolt on p3."
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Aug 14, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
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can't say- "I did it back in '77..."
Same here, '77 "and those bolts back then didn't inspire a whole lot of confidence" But my buddies did(Kevin L/Art H/Rick L)...some old school daddio's!
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
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Clint, thanks for that update about the upper pitch of Alchemist's. While on the Vision earlier this week, we gazed over at the first 2 pitches of Multiplication and they looked really excellent, but at least one or two bolts were old SMC hangers with what looked to be a rusty 1/4" (maybe 5/16"?) bolts. Still, looked good enough to warrant an ascent even with old bolts.
Having done some rebolting there, do you know if a 60m rap reaches from the tree at the top (bunch of slings) to the bolt belay of Alchemist's? And from there, can you reach the first anchor of Vision in another 60m rap? This would be a much better way to get down than traversing west and using the rappel that goes over the arch.
Finally, huge thanks to LongAgo for opening up this particular face. It's a wonderful piece of rock and the Vision is a wonderful route. Thanks, guys, for shining a light on it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
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> do you know if a 60m rap reaches from the tree at the top (bunch of slings) to the bolt belay of Alchemist's?
Yes, this is how Bruce and I did the rebolting of p3 of the Vision.
>And from there, can you reach the first anchor of Vision in another 60m rap?
No, this does not reach that p1 anchor on The Vision.
I recall we rapped from a jammed rock/knot/sling at the ledge at the start of p3 of the Vision.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 02:45am PT
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It is important to mention that when Clint and I replaced the bolts on the third pitch the first two bolts were next to each other and appeared that one was added to back up the first. Given this situation, I removed both bolts, but only replaced one.
Bruce
ps - we also replaced all eight bolts (2 belay and 6 protection) bolts on Mypopia on the other side of the arch from Vision on the same day. We replaced all the bolts on Faux Pas the next day across the way the next day.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 11, 2014 - 12:32am PT
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Fantastic line. Old school t-Meadows...so good. Did it today with the NAKid.
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 27, 2018 - 09:35am PT
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The route does not see much traffic. A bit grassy and lichen-ishy. It took ten minutes to garden an anchor on the fourth pitch. Good route.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 27, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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Burnin' Oil, thank you for bumping this. And the thread benefits from yur choice fotos.
Good old Gerooti root.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Aug 27, 2018 - 02:09pm PT
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Plus one for the eastward walkoff route. A little scrubby but no raps..
Loved this route and that crux always gets one's attention. Tip top rock quality throughout..
ah the days..
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 27, 2018 - 02:47pm PT
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Beautiful route based on those pictures.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2018 - 08:30pm PT
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George pulling into the crack above the crux
and taking off above
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Aug 27, 2018 - 09:37pm PT
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I really enjoyed that climb though it's been years since I did it.
It's back on my TM list:-)
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Aug 28, 2018 - 01:01pm PT
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I'm such a chicken. Those run-outs make me ill. Looks like great climbing, tho!
BAd
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 28, 2018 - 03:21pm PT
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Looks delish!
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