Discussion Topic |
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 30, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Just another fine day at Stoney Point!
have a nice day!
with love from Stoner's Point!
p.s if it's ur first time check'n this thread be sure to scroll all the way to the right, then click "the last" for latest updates.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
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Sep 30, 2009 - 01:30am PT
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Nice pictures . The new forum is sick looking . Thanks for posting .
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Sep 30, 2009 - 09:02am PT
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Pyro, thanks for stirring fond memories. I spent a lot of time there in the 60's with my buddies, my dear old mom would take us boys out before we could drive ourselves and wait in he car with her rosery beads......the road where you park wasn't there, it looks a lot cleaner now.....oh how time flies and things change with B1 & balance rock still there and my old friend Roy long gone. Savor your time with friends in the sun, thanks again berg heil.
Charlie D.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 30, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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Pyro, nice.
Keep it up.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 30, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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I live in Burbank but have not climbed at Stoney in at least 10 years. In the early 80's thru mid 90's I climbed there at least 4 days a week if not more. I remember lots of faces but few names except for Kamps of course, Waugh and a couple who's names I cant remember but they climbed there everyday, he had a fused ankle but it did little to slow him down and his wife climbed at a level that was seldom equaled by women back then. They were the best bouldering companions. I think their names were Jim and Laura, Jim had a kind of salt and pepper fro going on and was big into the Greatfull Dead. It is the relationships that I miss most.
I have young kids now and need to get out there and introduce them to the place like my dad did.
Thanks for the pics Pyro.
Kevin Mokracek
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Sep 30, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
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Thanks to all Stoney folks who were customers of Art of Climbing... backin the day....
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Sep 30, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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Is that where I bought my spider tcu's (circa 1986-7)? Still use them today.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Sep 30, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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I once did three pigs 100 times in a row to get ready for the vampire and flakes.
I used to do like 10 laps on Crystal Ball. I never see anyone these days do that route.
Juan
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DMBARN
climber
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Sep 30, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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All us climbers should be thanking YOU Ed Bannister. That shop was awesome. I took my first climbing class through your shop with Alan Bard. Took a wilderness first aide course which led me to become an EMT and wound up as a Trauma RN taking care of Yosemite climbers from time to time. The slide shows from people like Peter Hacket and one of the Lowe brothers (I can't remember which one) were inspiring. Bought my first stopper from you. When you think of the likes of Robbins and Chouinard to all who climbed at Stoney, it (and your shop) spawned a lot of great climbers.
Thanks,
Doug
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dfrost7
Social climber
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Sep 30, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
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I used to boulder there on the way home from Ventura. I was making trips
to Bend a lot then, due to some work I was doing at Metolius. I always liked getting a climber who would be a rider for the long trip. It made me happy to do this because a lot of times people can't afford the trip and they would be going to a really great area. In this case, meet the Metolius crew, too.
Met a kid named Jay Decker there one day and told him where I was going and if he wanted to ride up, and could leave the next day, he was welcome to come along (Smith Rock). He did. We were there a week and he climbed his first 5.10, 5.11 that week. We came home and he quit his job, packed up and moved to Bend. It was so great to see that happen for him. All because of Stoney Point. The End.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 30, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
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One of the most picturesque areas in Los Angeles- what does that tell you?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
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Porno's4pyro! Jim.
this year alone have stumbled into four porno's being filmed. women getting their photo's taken with other women, ebony shots, nude men shots and etc. big on porn out here.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Sep 30, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
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Looks like a cool place as a local crag.
I'd hit that!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Sep 30, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Sep 30, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
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Nice pictures. I haven't been back in quite awhile. One of the last times I was there I fell on Rock One when holds snapped and I broke both my wrists.
Ruined a trip to Alaska for both Nick Badirka and I..........
I might just have to go back one of these tuesdays when I'm in town.
Jack
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Sep 30, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
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Thanks for the pics. I bouldered there in the 80s and still sneak in once in a while when I am in LA for business.
But whats up with the pads. Where is carpet??
PS with two herniated discs I now have a cushy pad
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
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"Just a really wet day for Stoney Point".
"PLEASE STAY OFF THE ROCK AFTER A RAIN STORM FOR AT LEAST 3-5DAYS".
Thank-you climbers!
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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There are a few areas that can still be climbed.
Hot Tuna
Aid Climb inside the train tunnel. Wouldn't be the first time.
The base of planet of the ape wall stays dry at Malibu Creek.
MMM
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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cool looking boulder....
but not when it's under water!!!
Cheers to the Stoney Point Crew!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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Thanks for the TR - I've seen pictures of people climbing/bouldering at Stony (Stoney?) Point, and knew about its place in history, but never seen area and panorama photos of it. So even though JDF's photo is annoyingly wide, it does provide a nice perspective on the place.
To illustrate, somehow I always thought it was on the ocean. Apparently not.
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hooblie
climber
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Oct 14, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
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annoyingly wide? it takes like 52 seconds for my arrow button to find the next page, for what, some rubble next to an overpass?
i mean which pixel was supposed to put me over the edge? i'll tell you. it was the 1280th
you better hide your chihuahua young man, i'm beyond the age of reason
edit: okay, i overreached re: the dog. it worked for the wicked witch, but sheez, if you can't paint a picture with a thousand pixels....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
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I would know about the Ape's wall considered I live 4 min away! getting to the wall on a rainy day suck's!
Hot Tuna is a dry place, however I'd rather go to Boulderdash indoor rock climbing gym. That way I can socialize and climb at the same time.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Oct 14, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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I gonna be on that standstone come Fri, my state unpaid day off.
Training for the Nose of Big Stone near the road.
I predict I will be doing three pigs again in less than 30 days.
Juan "Big T" De Fuca
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
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I'm not bothered by the J.D.F panorama pic at all. I gives the viewers a chance to see that Stoney is suburban climbing.
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Oct 14, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
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For those that maybe following chatworth climbing treads.
But the pic of the rock in the aid climbing tread.
The formation can be seen on top of the ridge above the orange tile roof in the pan. pic
MMM
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Oct 15, 2009 - 12:33am PT
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That big roof pitch is rad. More fun then the Kor Roof.
I rope soloed it years ago.
Second Ascent
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 15, 2009 - 04:53am PT
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hey there pyro, say....
wonderful to see such nice rock pics...!!!
(wow, juan's is only halfway coming into view!)
*say, not being a climber, i really LIKED the rainy day pics, as well...
bldrjc (jack)(hope i got that right)---say, breaking both wrist was sure a "limiting event" for the ol' body... wow... i broke only one, once, but i could do near about anything except braid my hair---i just used the arm to manuever around somehow to help the well hand, even used my toes, so i cold knit... :O
thanks for the share...
hope they never ache and give you trouble..
hope you got to see alaska...
lastly, hhhhmm...forgot what else i was going to say... now... oh my...
great stuff here, though...
*edit: oh i know what it was..
say, juan, if your out on the ol' "sandstone" as you said, for friday,
well happy climb to you... and best wishes for it all...
*sandstone?
edit: see the pic, now, wow--fantastic picture juan, good ol' calif...
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 09:51am PT
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Boy, I haven't been to stoney in over 10 years. Definately some fond memories there.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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It's best to just stay off the stuff till it dries out.
We have lost many "great problems" because of knuckle heads who are stupid f-ks.
Last winter, while it was raining hard, I was driving past and saw a big group of climbers unloading pads.
I made an emergency U turn......
Then we had a "little talk" about Stoney with these dudes..... They packed away the pads.
You gotta take care of your crags.
GK
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:51am PT
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I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86
Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.
Pads. What little girls.
Juan
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:58am PT
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I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86
Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.
Pads. What little girls.
Juan
Juan....please don't hang your massive bod off any holds, ok?
C-ya friday.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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Cool..... did you make them eat it?
I know someone who caught a "graffiti artist" at work.
Held him down, and sprayed down his face with the paint.....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
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i've heard that spray paint story before. funny stuff!
yeah it's kinda comforting to know that the Stoney crew drives up and down Topanga throughout the day watching and regulating climbers and their activity!
I'll post more pic's when the time comes!
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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Good to finally meet you the other day at Echo, Pyro! Wish we'd had more time to hang out!
Nice pics! Erik
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 15, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Careful Donini or Charley the Man Manson is going to pay you a visit for ragging on his turf.
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JNB
Big Wall climber
Northridge
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Oct 15, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Oct 15, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
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Yeah, I really miss the place!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 15, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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hey there say, juan... wow, so now they got the best garden scenery in town, i'd reckon.... ;)
as to your quote:
I broke off the big flake on the front of Turlock in 86
Its sitting in my Parents Backyard.
say, do you have a picture? how large is it...
lynda had a neat boulder in yard in el portal---though it was not broken off from a climb---it did it's own "planting"... rocks in yards are wonderful... sure love them rocks...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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Just another bitch'n day at Stoney Point!
Thank's for watching!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 21, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Pyro...... thanks for posting.
The paint really gets me. The dam graffiti placed by "MS13" is bad enuf, but now we have some "Eco-do gooders" painting over the stone! Fu-k two coats of paint is extra slick.
And some other do-gooders took a "Hydro-blaster" to the stone, that wore off the patina exposing the soft soft soft stone underneeth, we lost good problems.
Bob Kamps was the keeper of the stone, we need a new one, how about you pyro?
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 21, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
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Fat..... no way! Juan is now only a lurker.
He is never seen around those parts anymore. The photos he posted were from BITD....
If we see him we will post up some photos.
gk
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JNB
Big Wall climber
Northridge
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Oct 21, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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I have stood in front of a water blast crew and defended boulder one in the early 90's. They called the police on me.
I also have gone after film crews f*#king up the rocks.
As for painting over Graffiti I have never touched Boulder one or Turlock.
All my painting except for some on Mozarts was done on the summit boulder field.
I was their last Friday and it is looking really bad again.
When I can do the pigs again I shall appear.
Juan
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Howie S
climber
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
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Oct 21, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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Wow,
So cool to see pics of where I cut my climbing teeth. Haven't been there in probably 13 years.
Such fond memories of bouldering with Kamps, Wilson, Guy, Forrest and Dimitry, amongst others. Bob showed me so many crazy ass traverses with some seriously contrived and contorted body positions.
What's with all the pads? Didn't have that stuff BITD. Every body should have the full experience of pitching off onto the hard dirt below Endo Boy, Yobo mantle or the like!
Also, I love how Stoney just used the B scale. So much easier to figure out ratings. If it was 5.11 or under, it could be done. If it was B1 or B1+, it would take a lot of work, but it could be done. If it was B2 or B3, it most likely was impossible :) Then again, the vibe was more like three classes of problems. I can do it, I might be able to do it, or no F-ing way I can do it.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Oct 21, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
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I love people that come out to Stoney and then complain about having to do 'Eliminates'. I have been climbing there for 37 years! How in the hell am I supposed to keep things interesting unless we start eliminating the easy holds. Bouldering is a game best played with a tightly structured set of rules.
'That hold's off!'.
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Howie S
climber
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
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Oct 21, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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Eliminates are what make it interesting!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 21, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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What the heck happened to Waugh's hair???? My grandma has a nice shade of blue hair dye he should start using.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Oct 21, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
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KIds and a wife!!!!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 21, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
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Oh, come on, Mikey had kids and a wife when I worked with him on the fire dept. I think he dyes it.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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guyman becoming keeper of the stone would be quite the honor! Bob was the keeper of the stone. give me twenty some years then i'll take you up on that. besides I like taking pictures too share online it's rich culture of climbing.
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BBA
Social climber
West Linn OR
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Oct 21, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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The more things change, the more they stay the same...
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 21, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
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Pumping the Three Pigs! If I could Just pump that out I could climb 5.10. That was my thinking long ago. I remember many days in the summer after work we would boulder at Stoney, Lots of history. It was a dump then and still today. I guess that’s what makes it Cool.
Dogtown.
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JNB
Big Wall climber
Northridge
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Oct 21, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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I would like to throw one of the shaved head taggers off Jesus Wall.
Juan
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Oct 21, 2009 - 09:25pm PT
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The human G_Gnome project:
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Oct 21, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
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I noticed that a key hold to the left of three pigs is now gone. Was that done during the water blasting. I used to be able to crank up and avoid using the first three holes. If it was water blasting who the f*#k did it?
Juan
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 01:45am PT
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the future is
good times!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 11:35am PT
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BBA~thank's for posting the picture of the climbers on Boulder one!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 22, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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BBA good shots. You take em?
The one legged man is sort of famous, I can't remember his name. I did see a old LA Times article about him, he was climbing, leading, "Finger Tip" at Taquitz.
I love the "White Dude" graffiti, wish we could preserve some of it. After the last fire we found some: "Ken" "Don" "John" "1970" .......
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 22, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
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Swelley..
Good memory, but it's Jim Gorin with the one leg.
I found a Sierra Club historical persons site.
Jim had a comment that he could climb better with one leg cause he did not have the extra weight hanging on him. Ha Ha aha .....
Ray is his bro, both were long time climbers, Sierra Club members.
Right above there listings is one for "K. Goodykuntz" now that is a name I seem to remember from BITD.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 22, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
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Y'all remember when Chelsea was a regular...?
There's some good top outs at Stoney..
I'll be seeing you guys out there pretty soon, btw...
Maybe next week. Tuesday.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Kris thank's for reminding me of Chelsea! I remember when she was climbing around Stoney! she was so nice to me. what a cool climber chick!
thanks for the pictures.
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JNB
Big Wall climber
Northridge
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Oct 22, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
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I will be at Stoney Tomorrow. Getting Back in shape after getting my life back.
Juan
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JNB
Big Wall climber
Northridge
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Oct 22, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
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Back in the Day when I was climbing solid 5.11.
1988.
Notice the fancy cool Lycra.
Juan
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JNB
Big Wall climber
Northridge
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Oct 22, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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My 2nd Month of climbing
Check out the sticky shoes!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 11:31am PT
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Jeff nice picture's. keep em coming!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 23, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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I thought hard about posting these pictures, but decided it would be ok.
It was a sad but very special day when climbers and friends came to Stoney Point from all over the place to remember their friend, mentor, The Master, Bob Kamps.
May 24, 2005.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oct 23, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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Juan,
You got any pictures of Mommas Boy? I always like setting up shop doing laps on the Iguana on days that I cut high school classes.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 23, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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Wow, that last photo is quite the role call. Lots of hard climbing stretched among them.
Is Beverly (Woolsey) where the 'Mama Woolsey' route name originated?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Oct 23, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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Yep, she would be That Momma, Woolsey.
Funny note about Papa Woolsey, Chris Wegoner was new to Josh and had started bolting that face when Powell showed up and booted him off as too inexperienced to deserve such a fine line.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 23, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
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Yes.
Good shots Kris. What I remember most about that day, was when a falcon keep swooping down close to the climbers. I have never seen a falcon before or since at Stoney.
I think it was a sign.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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Yes, I remember that bird. Came through right at the end - a very beautiful flight.
I know we're all in the same boat: still can't go to Stoney Point without having fond memories of Bob Kamps. He was there when I made my first visit in January 1992 I think. He saw a new face and gave us the tour. I made the mistake of telling him I climbed in the Gunks, so he saved Hot Tuna for last.
Few things in climbing measure up to being artfully sandbagged by the best.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
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thanks kris for the pics and feel free to post anything about the Point.
yes that was a sad day! I miss Bobby and his cool climber style!
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10b4me
Ice climber
the reticient boulder at the Happies
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Oct 23, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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brings back some good memories
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BBA
Social climber
West Linn OR
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Oct 23, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
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Guyman - The one legged climber was Gorin, first name either Ray or Roy. He was always a surprise to see when he attacked the rock. I didn't take the shots, I believe a friend named Dave Harvey did. I'm to the right between Yvon and Harry "Latex" Daley who also called himself "the Mace" because he was a Sierra Clubber. TM Herbert is on the left.
In looking at the air view of the area, the biggest change is that the old road was two lanes and was at the same level as Boulder #1
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 27, 2009 - 04:51pm PT
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BBA, Thanks for the info.
Lot's of fun over the years at the point. I started climbing there in 1973 and guys like Yvon, TM,RR, Kamps were legendary figures.
We will add you to the list.
Got any more photos?
Post em up.
GK
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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just a windy day at Stoney Point.
enjoy!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 28, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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A shot of Don Lauria from the 1968 Chouinard Equipment catalog.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Oct 28, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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Thanks for the good spot guys, all I see is arms crossed and backs turned.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
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here ya go Don L an Matty your both climbing the "crowd pleaser".
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 29, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
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I'm amazed looking at that 1968 photo how much more flaky and featured the rock was before compared to now, when a couple of generations since have worked it over.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Oct 29, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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Props to the Old Dads!! Lookin' good Jan!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Oct 29, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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I took about 8 months off from Stoney in the last year, now that I have been taking T I have gone 3 times in three weeks.
It is truly amazing. I am totally weak now but hope to get back on the pigs.
Juan
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
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hey Jeff
on tuesday some kid decided to pull out his chisel and hammer. I was walking back from Turlock and I thought he was pounding in a Pin. right at the start of the downclimb you'll notice like five new chisel marks. we ousted that kid and his friends immediately from the point. His excuse was that he could'nt get up to the top somehow and making a good foot hold was going to help! the funny thing about all that crazy scene is that he had a crash pad but no climbing shoes!
P.S. If that same kid is reading my posting then listen. Go gets some rock boots then get over to Stoney Point. we'll teach you how to rock climb!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 29, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
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So the question is: Who's missing their crash pad?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
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just another spectacular day at Stoney point!
temps were just right.
time change occurred a few weeks ago and all of us are having to adapt to it.
have a good day!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
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hey thank's for responding. the Stoney Point thread is just getting started! this place has many areas of climbing interest. i'll bring more pic's to the table.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 19, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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It's pretty amazing to see the whole street full of cars and nowhere to park even after daylight savings has left us. This place just keeps drawing us in. So do the friends we meet there.
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Nov 20, 2009 - 12:04am PT
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does anyone remember the sword guy from around 88. apparently he rode his bike from ohio(i think) to hollywood to make swords and break into show business. he lived in the bushes behind pink floyd for a few months.
one day i was bouldering alone in front when out of the corner of my eye i noticed a young fellow, butt naked, peering at me from the bushes(those darn bushes again). i bailed.
seriously thats where it all began for me so that place will always be special. man did my fingers hurt so good as i drove home on the 118 each day.
so many good times and people!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 20, 2009 - 10:55am PT
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dan.... wow don't remember him.... Yabo usta hang in them bushes some.
Chatsworth is the right place to come to and use your "sword" so you can break into showbizz.....
We see alot of that going on.... keeps the place fun.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 21, 2009 - 03:27am PT
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I've never really been a Stoney regular but still ended up out there like 1,000 times. Here's the only shot I have of the joint, from about 30 years ago on the Yabbo Arete, V2 or something.
JL
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 21, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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Thanks for the shot. Here is one from brooks site. V2? hummm... In your photo you can see largonaut chalked up too. What year did you put that up? Any other FA's of note?
Matt
http://ayola.com/stoney/index.html
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 21, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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Largonaut, Powerglide and Ummagumma all went up around 1975, and all seemed roughly about the same difficulty. Also the Yabo mantle on Rock 1 and the stuff on Pink Floyd or whatever you call it. All good stuff and stiff 35 years ago sans pads. Don't fall.
JL
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 22, 2009 - 02:19am PT
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Wow...It seems like eons since I was there! My last time was with the "Guargoyle" who took me to Yabo arete. I thought it was a cool prob! (At least V2+...)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 02:30am PT
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i was told that if you climbed the three boulder problems: "Yabo arete 2 router bit!.... then largonaut" earned ya a "Triple Crown"!.
pyro.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 24, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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This is in the section of stoney that borders the 118, between canoga and topanga. The land used to be private, but was annexed onto the park sometime in the last 10 years (at least that's the story I got). My buddy Sparky and I have found 50+ lines on the boulders back there. you can see the freeway cracks in the background. Lemme know if anyone wants to go, I'd be happy to show ya around. The climbs are more spread out than stoney proper, and probably need some cleaning.
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apogee
climber
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Nov 24, 2009 - 02:53pm PT
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Wow, the timing of your post above is uncanny...
I drove through Santa Susanna pass yesterday, and wondered (again) who owns the land on the north side of 118, on both sides of the pass? I've never gotten out of the car and walked it, but there is a lot more 'stone' (using the word loosely) there than at SP. Is is private land? State? City?
Got more pics of the surrounding area? Post up!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 24, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
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Don't know about the other land, but the spot I mentioned is now part of stoney point park. Will post more shots sometime.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 24, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
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I used to climb at an area between the freeway and the RXR tracks. You could drive a road just before the 118 East bound on ramp on Topanga, take the road a hundered yards or so and there was a fun crack and OW dihedral thay we used to lead. Anyone still climb over there?
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Nov 26, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
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The land north at Rocky Peak Rd, is park land. But, not LA Park land. Some part of Santa Susana Park ?. Here's some information on the history. At one time a group that included Bob Hope owned the land and then lease it to Getty Oil. At that time we could drive up the road, now trail. I believe they did a land swap for it to become a park. For the right info on this check out Santa Susana Park Association.
On the other side of the 118 fwy. It is a mix of private owners, including The Church at Rocky Peak. I went climbing around the area across from the church and was asked to leave. I do believe that land is marked for homes. Even though the owner who was the one who kicked us off said "No Homes"
mmm
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 27, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
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Here is some old school funk for y'all. No hands boulder problems circa 1961. Roger Brown (who filmed Sentinel- The West Face) did a little film with a star studded cast! I have never seen the film. Has anyone else seen it? From Summit June 1961.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Nov 27, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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Seen the article before but didn't remember there was a movie... would love to see it.
I remember folks going up and down that route with no hands but never thought of it as particularly good training, though I also remember Kamps seemed compulsive about doing it as a kind of warm up. Wish people would post up more old photos of the place... very nostalgic... thanks.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2009 - 11:40am PT
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Steve grossman thank-you!
your post about "Bouldering" just enhanced this thread by 100%.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 01:15am PT
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Not a lot of articles about Stoney Point so I am always stoked to find anything interesting.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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just for Batrock!
a friendly hello!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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just a "good friction" kinda day!
enjoy the show!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
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I'll keep it going for the next few months. shorter days make it harder to get out into the back area. but we got time!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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If you got time why was stoney someplaceuwerenot? Only andrew me mark, guy and a few non regulars.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Matty ... pyro has a job, and his boss is working him to death and he has all that ICE to polish at the rink.
gk
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2009 - 01:56am PT
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matty, I really like that guy somethingrunout! he likes the bumps4Stoney!
cheers.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2009 - 02:08am PT
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Chillin in the old country...
Anyone wanna get out this afternoon if it hasn't rained?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Guido just wrote me and is quite sure that the Chouinard catalog shot in post #84 is Dennis Henneck not Don Lauria. Hopefully, some more historical photos will surface. Is the flake in the photo still around?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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please no climbing on the sandstone.
the rains have soaked the rock like a sponge!
that means locals hate it when flakes get pulled off and world class boulder problems get ruined!!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Dec 15, 2009 - 10:55am PT
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More pics of our favorite choss pile...
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 15, 2009 - 11:14am PT
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It's Tuesday.....
The sun has been shining, let's go...
rincon.... Rincon this weekend? It,s that time of year.
gk
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 15, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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Pyro,
Thats the area. Used to climb there a bunch back in the early 80's when it got crowded at the point. Thanks.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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Stoney point "charrrred"! in 08'
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Dec 16, 2009 - 07:52am PT
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I put up some sick new lines last month -
"Pink Graffiti-Cover Traverse" is destined to be a classic, and I just finished the mega-proj "Horsesh!t Wind". Also, the "Bum-Piss Cave" has it's own reward for climbing to the daylight.
Good times.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 16, 2009 - 10:31am PT
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Mr. E .... you will need to show up, and show all of US just how/where those "NEW" problems are........ the judges are tough at that place.
It's really common to have young studs show up, fire "something new"....
Then we try to produce photograph evidence of prior accents......
Over by "PowerGlide", these kids cleared out some brush and "discovered" new stuff.... a quick review of the historical photos ( several thousand ) clearly showed a very young John Bachar, red headband and all on the said new problem. Further discussions with Jim Wilson reviled the fact that maybe, Dan McHale of Fred Beckey did it in 66. McHale confirmed that "It wasen't new" when he did it, he thought it was Royal, Royal confirmed that "Glen and his brother did it in 38..... so there you go. We value accuracy
at the old point and like to keep everything truthful.
So come on down and break some wind with the boys,you can do your new ones,
we can try em. OK.
cheers
Guy Keesee
SPCA member #1973-12
Guy Keesee
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Dec 16, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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"So come on down and break some wind with the boys"
Sounds like Blazing Saddles,
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 16, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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It's a serious invite.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
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Rob thank's for the great shot'z! I really like the pic of the 118freeway.
misterE your always welcomed.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Dec 16, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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So far as "new" stuff, this same scenario gets played out at Roubidoux every decade or so. Photos are lacking, but there are a few of us who still remember Phil Haney, Paul Gleason, Ben Borson and others sending some pretty grim shite (up to around V8) a way back there, when we were still early on in high school. Slab climbing hasn't really gotten any harder in 30 years.
JL
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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Slab climbing hasn't really gotten any harder in 30 years.
So true.
More bolts are big difference. Some things done way BITD are amazing, esp when you factor in climbing in hiking boots.
gk
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Yesterday was really nice out at the point.
Sunny skies,with cool temps were the order of the day.
A climber from Budapest, Martin is his name, was blasting through town and he "Just had to come and see this place" We showed him some of the more classic stuff and then moved on to "hard problems." He spoke enthusiastically about the local bouldering back in Budapest. "Boulders in the forest" he said.Sounds nice.
I always like the international flavor you can sometimes find there.
Personally, I was able to hit some harder problems that I have not been able to do in about 6 years due to injuries. So I was very happy.
As long as there is no more rain and the temps stay cool the friction should be picking up some in the next few weeks.
GK
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 19, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
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Guido, of course, is correct. That is a photo of Dennis Hennek, not me. I was never that young.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Dec 19, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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Part of the flake in the photo was gone by the early 70s. We used to call that particular series of moves "crowed pleaser traverse." It ended up on the nob below the infamous "rock #2 overhang." The traverse looked great but really wasn't very difficult 5.8 perhaps before the flake began to go and the ground below eroded a bit. I'm sure it's much more difficult now. I remember as holds were pulled off by 76 or so it seemed much more difficult.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 23, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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Pual Rohel..... I believe you are correct,The flake made the traverse 5.8....that was the last time I was able to do it.
Yesterday, 12/22/09 was cold and clear. The point, as usual, had some out of state visitors. If anybody Knows "Kieth" from Boulder,driving a outback, loaded with gear.....he says hi to all back in snowy Colorado, his next stop is "The Tree".
Anyway, a two year quest by the Topos own "matty" ended yesterday. Matt was able to finely send "Yabos Mantle" on rock one.
So we had something to celebrate.... and we broke out the frozen beers at sunset. (like we needed a reason)
late.
gk
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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nice job matty!
Yabo mantle is a good one to have under your belt.
have a good holiday and a happy new year.
with love from the point.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Here is demeets matching on the mantle, where the real business starts. Jeff Johnson says he knows of at least 17 variations to this problem. He is the only person I know that has down climbed it, though I've seen Aaron come close. The way I did it is knott the usual way, but then again I am knott a usual person. Next I will have to try Yabo arete, and I think there may be a yabo dyno up top to complete the trifecta. I'm coming home tomorrow boys. See ya tuesday
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 08:32pm PT
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love this thread! here are some of my member numbers for the record.
SPCA #1995-06
ASCA#2007-07
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
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just a nice kinda day!
enjoy the pic's for tuesday the 12th.
the clouds looked so stellar!
have a good day!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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Good times!
Good times!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 13, 2010 - 01:06am PT
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Extra trippy sunset tonight.
Can't beat 70 degree weather, good friends and good climbing.
The "Kat" is better after climbing.....IMHO.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:21am PT
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puff looking clouds!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Jan 13, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
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Thanks for shooting my better side Ryan
):RAIN:(
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
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due to the rain Stoney is closed to climbers for a few days!
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 16, 2010 - 11:35am PT
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Art of Climbing had a great selection of reading material - I seem to remember getting my first pair of Fire Cats from there too.
Sad that (besides Nomad Ventures) all of the specialty shops have gone away, they were great places to just hang out.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2010 - 11:41am PT
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Guyman rad! looks like when top-rope season is in we'll have to give it a try!
" the group of course".
RM
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
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James Doty
Trad climber
Idyllwild, Ca.
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Jan 18, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
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Looks kind of cool but what a zoo.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 19, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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James. Trust me, the pics don't show half of the story.
you got to try it for yourself.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2010 - 09:41pm PT
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the only zoo there is the "wazoo"...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 05:03pm PT
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suuper soaked!!!.......i'm getting stir crazy........rain go away.....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2010 - 02:33am PT
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Jan 25, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
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Still wet with more rain on it's way. Here are some photos I mined to pass the days:
Robbins on Turlock (from John Gill's site)
Bob Kamps on Turlock (from Gill's site, photos by Bonnie Kamps)
Dolt on boulder 1
Robbins laybacking
Take care everyone-
Matt
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Jan 26, 2010 - 01:02am PT
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Some guys don't let anything get in their way.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2010 - 01:56am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2010 - 12:55am PT
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the guy with the red shirt is named Guy Keesee.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 27, 2010 - 10:55am PT
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It was indeed a happybirthday...... thanks Ryan and Em.
Just waiting for it to dry up some.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Jan 27, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
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I added the buckets in 1980 so my coed could do the downclimb.
Juan
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
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Jan 27, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
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Safe to climb this weekend? What do the locals think?
-Zak
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 27, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
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choss...burning...my eyes...must...claw..out...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
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Zak~
last nite the national weather report claimed no rain for the weekend:) If it stays dry till saturday then climbing on the sunnyside stuff could hold up!
keep in mind this is the wet season for stoney so practice caution when crank'n on those !!!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 27, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
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Mr evil. THX for the BD props.
I know the buckets were there in 1973.
so Juan is just bragging.
zak.... the weekend might be just fine, as Pyro says, keep to the stuff on the sunny side.
and BVB.... jealous?, don't try to hide the fact. :>).....I know your sitting in the snow. :>)....
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
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Jan 27, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
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Thanks. In town this w.e. so see you there!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 11:38am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
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just another activity that we like to do at Stoners point!
phot taken sept15/09
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
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Just some good temps for this week.
enjoy!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2010 - 11:40am PT
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just a friendly reminder!
this weekend is soaked.
drink beers instead.
cheers!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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I first visited Stoney with unknown friends as a young pre-teen in the late 50's. Growing up in Canoga Park, it was a place to cruise & scramble around just for the fun of it. I remember once seeing some climbers, probably the Sierra Club RCS (Rock Climbing Section), with ropes and commenting to a friend that they would certainly be killed doing that kind of climbing. Little did I know what was to come.
I used to go bowling with my brother, Philip, and mom, Marjorie, fairly regularly on Sundays at the local bowling alley. One day during the winter of 1960-1961, my dad, Robert, showed up unnannounced and announced that the RCS was having a practice climb at Stoney and that my brother and I were going with him. We had been spending the previous two family summer vacations camping in Yosemite. In 1959, my dad, brother and I hiked up the cable route on Half Dome. The following summer, we three hike up Mt. Dana. It was Dad's ambition to climb Mts. Lyell and Ritter the next summer (which we did) and he felt that we needed roped climbing skills and equipment to do it safely. So we went with him to Stoney Point, and a whole new world opened up to me. The rest is history, so to speak. I never asked Mom how she felt about that day because we never went bowling with her again.
I've known Dennis Hennek since 8th grade (1958), by 1961 we were in high school (Canoga Park HS) together, and about then we began going to Stoney Point every Saturday and Sunday and sometimes even after school. One day in the hall at my locker, Dennis and I were talking about climbing whild I was holding "A Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" in my hand. An unknown student, Russ McLean overheard our conversation and stopped to introduce himself. I guess we were a little stand-offish, and Russ felt rejected, but soon we met him again at Stoney, and others in our high school class joined us three on our weekend forays to Stoney.
We three graduated from high school in 1963, and that summer, in addition to a climbing trip to the Tetons with my father and brother, I did a hike into Bullfrog Lake over Kearsarge Pass from Independence, CA. From that lake, there's a lovely view of Mt. Brewer in the distance, and I greatly admired its nearly 1000' unclimbed face, and I set my sights on it. I'd never climbed anywhere but Stoney Point until then, so Russ and I took a quick trip to Tahquitz where we did two moderate climbs but were able to practice swinging leads on a real multi-pitch climbs. Late in the summer, carrying ropes and hardward we hiked (in our "kettershoes")to Bullfrog Lake where we found, by sheer coincidence, Dennis and his brothers fishing by the lake. After a short visit with them, Russ and I continued on and eventually set up a camp near the base of the Mt. Brewer's NE face. That's a story for another time. But after our successful ascent, the summit photos (not scanned yet!) show both Russ and I wearing our high school senior sweaters. Go Thorians [CPHS Class of S'63]! LOL!
I'm still organizing what I can see will be a massive scanning project; so far the only two pix from Stoney Point that I've done are of Don Lauria. One, dated 1965, shows him doing what I think was the second ascent of the "Boche Death Route." Is that route even done any more? The other, dated 1968, shows Don practicing aid on what we called in those days, "The Ski Tracks," two parallel cracks on the walls of one of the gullies on Stoney's backside.
Somewhere I have slides of a "Traffic Diversion" that the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers did to the traffic one Friday afternoon during the construction of the new Freeway that now goes by Stoney. That, also, will be for another time.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Nice pics and story BooDawg!!
In the first pic of D.L., he's on Sandblast, 5.11c. it's right next to Sculpters Crack. Still trying to figure out where the Boche Death Route is though.
Looking forward to see more of your pics!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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The Boche Death Route went from right to left up and across the blank west face (the "Front Wall" as tagged in the Stoney Point Guide 1982) of Stoney Point. The photo of Pyro's at the top of this page shows the Front Wall quite clearly - it's directly above the left edge of the oak tree behind Slant Rock.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2010 - 03:31am PT
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rincon,
it's gotta be that stuff on the jesus wall...? right of the non-exist bolt ladder:you start on the 5.7 crack then clip a (chopped or missing) bolt and traverse left in the pinscars then straight up?
BooDawg thanks!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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BooDawg...... very nice. Please keep adding shots and names. We are trying to get the whole history of the Point written down. So many climbers have stories similar to yours. One day they went to Stoney and their life changed forever..... mine did for sure.
Ever get out there now?????
Edit..... is he leading the Boche Death root????
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Yes, Lauria is leading the route; one can see the rope and crabs leading up from the center-bottom of the pic.
Living on Hawaii Island, I don't get to SoCal much, tho last time I was there, McLean and I went out and enjoyed part of a day on the rocks.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Stoney bump!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Very cool thread!
Refreshes the old memories nicely.
The Fish in the late 70s, Turlock:
photo, Doug Munoz
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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"Pave paradise and put up a parking lot" !!
This 1965 pic was taken near Stoney, and the location has now been erased by the "new" freeway and the realignment of Topanga Canyon Bl.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Almost visible in the first photo is that Old Topanga Canyon Blvd used to make a large S-Turn as it passed by Stoney Point and over a railroad tunnel before heading west over the pass to Simi Valley. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the cars on the inside of the bend are all bunched up, creating a break in the traffic. This event took place around April Fool’s Day, 1969 when Team #1 the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers (who frequented Stoney for climbing practice) brought 5 of their cars and some “borrowed” orange highway cones plus a detour sign to the area.
Above the S-Turn, where a small road led off into a maze of roads where there were widely scattered houses, Team #2 was waiting with the cones and detour sign for the break in the traffic to arrive.
When the break arrived, they quickly set up the sign and the cones to block the highway and divert the afternoon commuter traffic into the maze of roads which had only one obscure outlet.
When the sign & cones were in place, the Team #1 drivers of the 5 cars led the commuter traffic up into the maze. Knowing the obscure route out, the drivers drove out around the back side of Stoney Point and walked up the back side to join Team #2 who had walked up there after setting up the sign and cones. For more than an hour, the maze of roads was a horrific traffic jam. The highway department came and opened up the road, scratching their head all the while.
We knew that these were futile efforts at resisting "progress," but it was sure fun to organize resistance anyway...
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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That is just such a cool piece of history! Excellent monkey-wrenching!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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BooDawg - Great posts, thanks sooo much. That traffic jam cracks me up. Got any good Kamps stories?
Matt
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Here are two pix of the FA of the "Boche Death Route." I'm not sure who actually took the pix; they are duplicate slides. Probably Hennek, Lauria, or McLean.
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ColeGibson
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Hello,
My name, as if it wasn't obvious from my screen name, is Cole Gibson and I've been working on a documentary about the history of climbing at Stoney Point for the last year and half, tentatively titled "Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag." So far we've interviewed almost 20 people ranging from Glen Dawson, who first climbed at the Point in 1927, to young kids pushing the limits in the present time.
About a year before graduating from film school at USC, I found what would become my life's passion out at Stoney Point. Like so many others before me, I fell in love with climbing at Stoney and haven't looked back since. Early on I met long time climbers like Guy Keesee, Mike Flood and Jan McCollum who became mentors and are to this day very good friends. Over the years I've met some of my best friends out at the Point and the place has truly become something special to me.
The history of climbing at Stoney Point over the last hundred years is richer than cheesecake and, as a filmmaker, it was a no brainer that this needed to be my first real project outside of school. Today, the film is about 75% complete, from a shooting standpoint, and I've amassed an amazing collection of historical photos and video assets. The Sierra Club, Glen Dawson, Brooks Ayola and many others have been HUGELY instrumental in the gathering of this collection and the project wouldn't be where it is without their help. Thanks guys!!! Climbing magazine will be publishing an article I wrote on the subject this coming Fall and the movie will be finished concurrently.
As a long time lurker here on the Taco I've held off on writing a post like this but, for better or worse, the time has come. While I already have enough assets to make a very complete documentary I can always use more. So if anyone has photos or stories or anything that they'd like to donate to or share with the documentary please let me know, either here on Supertopo, or by shooting me an email at - cgibson22@gmail.com
While I don't have many more interviews to do, I do have a couple people I'd like to get a hold of. Chief of whom are Mark Powell and TM Herbert. If anyone has contact info for these guys could you please send it to me so that I can reach out to them about the project? The 60's era is a little thin right now and I think these two legends would flesh it out nicely, to say the least!
Anyway, if it calls for it, I'll be posting on here regularly but for now please enjoy the following pictures. I'd love to post more but in terms of the article and the movie I don't think it's a good idea.
Thanks,
Cole
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Thx Cole! Great photos, looking forward to the whole shabang.
QH
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Cool photos Cole and everyone! This thread gets better and better!
Too bad it's raining and the rock is soaked, or we'd be there right now having fun.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
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B-dawg you are rad!
the traffic pic's made me think "what the hell are those students doing"? anyway, i like the pic of the S- turn with the train cruising on by!
ken Boche nice to meet ya!
when top-rope season is active we'll post some pic's of the gang climbing the "boche death route"..
tarbuster~thanks for check'n the Stoney thread. the fish is my favorite..
cole~your constant questioning stoney's history has inspired this thread...so get what you can out of it, because the world should always come climb at Stoney.
Stephanie you should get out more because i know your super strong!
Rincon i had to go to the gym today because of the rain..
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 11, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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I'm pasting in these references to Stoney from what I wrote last nite elsewhere... http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1079288&tn=20
More important, as you recall, were are frequent and intense trips to Stoney and then moving beyond… Have you checked out the Stoney Point thread in the last day or so? A film maker, Cole Gibson is making a documentary on Stoney. He says the 60’s is a bit thin. Did he interview you? If not, I’m thinking he may be missing an important piece of Stoney’s influence, considering the intensity with which we climbed there and the places that we went later.
Someone else on the Stoney thread, I think, was asking me for Kamps stories. You, LongAgo, of course, are probably the best one for those…
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Feb 11, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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climbing bump
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Feb 11, 2010 - 10:42pm PT
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Tidbits
The smell of Stoney after a rain, climbing the big face on some pothole route in the rain with Bud (Ivan) Couch both wearing plastic bags with head holes because, well, we were trying to become mountaineers or Herman Buhl or something, meeting Bob Kamps who took me under his wing and tuned my lust for the game into safe and sane climbing practice, and bantered with me and challenged me and me him on flake after flake, boulder after boulder, then back to his house for a sumptuous meal from Bonnie, and on and on to Tahquitz, Yosemite, Tuolumne with Bob, now a brain full of walls, pinnacles, domes, routes and campfires and starry nights, Bob and our times still deep within me and why, in most measure, all of climbing now rests with me like a great lasting love.
Here's a small memory of Bob at Stoney, written a couple of years ago for a Stoney guidebook which may or may not ever come out. What better place for it than this thread, this bit of cyberspace where we connect full of exuberance and heart for the big lumps of sandstone called Stoney Point:
Tribute
I vaguely remember a charred, skeletal car body at Stoney Point the first time I visited there. The place looked crummy and felt dusty and hot. The air was brown with smog. There were no climbers visible as I looked around Rock 1 (now called “Boulder 1”), just a few walkers, pooping dogs on the loose and some kids yelling, running and jumping around small boulders. Some of the boulders and higher cliffs were painted with names and hearts and four letter words. I think it was summer 1962.
I had come there to meet Bob Kamps. I had phoned him on a ruse, asking about the best rope to buy. I didn’t care about ropes. I had heard he was good. I wanted to learn about climbing and maybe get to climb real walls with him. All I had climbed at that point was the outside of my house with friend and neighbor Bud (Ivan) Couch. We had salivated over the book Freedom of the Hills, bought a few steel carabiners, a hemp rope and soft iron pitons, but never been on rock. So I steered my phone talk with Bob toward meeting at Stoney. He agreed.
After walking around some, I found Bob topping out on Rock 2 (now “Turlock” or Boulder 2). He wore a T-shirt, shorts and a light hiking boots, probably Cortinas. His hair was short, army-like. He was a little sunburned, wiry, knobby, veined and strong, matter of fact, but flashing a wry smile as we talked about how I liebacked wood siding on my house. It was the smile that told me I had a chance with him. The first thing he showed me was to use my feet, to look for edges and undulations in the rock for friction. We did some no-handed routes on a smaller rock near Rock 1. Bob moved as if walking up a stairway. I got the picture about feet. Later, we did a top-roped climb on a pothole wall at the back (east side) of the area. As I struggled up nearing a crux, he called out, “man or mouse?” My blood zoomed, and up I went.
I remember now the little circuit of Stoney routes we often did as Bob and I became lifelong climbing partners. I remember the smell of the gritty sandstone after a rain. I can feel the soft, grassy paths of the Spring, remember our bantering and competition bouldering. Bob could mantle anything. I was good at small hold endurance traverses. Over those years, Stoney and Bob built in me: wiring in a trust of tiny flakes, how to edge, hop step, step through, reach, match, smear, mantle, yell, laugh, curse and think anything was possible – all the essentials for the walls I came to do.
I remember sitting in the dirt with Bob near Rock 1 decades after our first encounter. We were spent, our arms pumped and gone, sipping a beer. I then lived in the Bay Area and was visiting for Thanksgiving (we alternated Thanksgivings visits for 30 years). Bob was eyeing a young climber, probably thinking, “no, put your foot there, not there.” By then, Bob had bouldered at Stoney about twice a week for nearly 40 years. Every flake, ledge, crack, hole and ledge was in his brain. I asked him if he remembered the first time I contacted him and he said, still looking at the climber but smiling, “Yeah, about the rope.” We laughed.
In 2005, about 200 people came to Stoney to honor Bob after his death. How fitting to hold a memorial for him there, but Bob is not gone from Stoney. He is there anytime I visit, stand still and close my eyes. Next time I go, he’ll be topping out on Rock 2 again, in his cut-off shorts, grinning.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 11, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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Tom-What a wonderful tribute to a beautiful man.
The two of you together were unbeatable.
I spent a lot of time at Stony when I was at UCLA between 1966-71, but always had to get a "visitors pass" since I was a Northern Cal boy from the Indian Rock Gang. Boche and the gang will never let you forget you are in S.Cal turf. Kamps was always fun and generous with his time and his beer.
Here is an interesting letter from Bitchen Bill Amborn, aka BBA, that portrays a day at Stony in 1962 and various other activities going on back then with some of the key players. It wasn't all climbing.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2010 - 12:03am PT
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he had hands like a gecko!
Tom wrote: "The first thing he showed me was to use my feet, to look for edges and undulations in the rock for friction. We did some no-handed routes on a smaller rock near Rock 1."
~those no hand rests got challenged by a couple of gym rats the other day and non of em' could crank them out because the lack of foot technique! we showed them how bob showed us and then they got it.
thanks for the story Tom.
Guido how interesting!
thank-you
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 12, 2010 - 04:54am PT
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WOW!! Tom, thanks SO MUCH for your moving and eloquent posting about your meeting Kamps and the relationship that you and he had over SO many years. Although my dad first took me to Stoney and to the Sierra, Cascades, Tetons, and Canadian Rockies, he really couldn't mentor me the way Kamps mentored you. We were all awed by, probably somewhat envious of, the two of you over the years. Sometimes I feel like nearly all climbers develop extraordinary bonds with those whom they have really connected. But I know that you and he had a special bond and love that not every climber is blessed with such bonding. Fred Becky, for all his genius and drive, may have missed some REALLY important life lesson that I KNOW you and Bob shared. So do Guido, Hennek, and Lauria. I feel honored to have known and climbed with all of you.
Sheesh, Guido, you really do amaze me, more than ever, with your knowledge and experience around this craft we call climbing. Thanks for your insightful comments which seem to be sprouting up everywhere like wildflowers in the spring.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Feb 13, 2010 - 07:50pm PT
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He slept at stoney! Great stuff. RIP BoB
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Feb 15, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
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A Tad Philosophical
Ken, yes, I now realize my relation with Bob was especially formative and deep, launching me not just in climbing but shaping how I approached a host of life's pursuits. As Guido says, "It wasn't all climbing." Indeed.
As I look back these past few years, everything and nothing spins around climbing. I know I am largely who I am because of climbing. We all are who we are in large part because of climbing, so how could it not be vital? And yet, suppose my "game" had been tennis or surfing or cycling or skiing and I had met the equivalent Bob Kamps there and formed a resulting lifelong friendship and felt fulfilled, then what do we say?
Maybe we come to this: the most vital thing from the standpoint of feeling satisfied and whole in life (not to imply I always have that feeling, but by and large I do) is not so much the rock and our game on it, nor our particular climbing accomplishments which mostly will be hazy or forgotten with time, but how we go about whatever we go about. With what passion we invest ourselves in any life game, how we honor and respect those we meet, how we internalize what we come to value in others we love and admire and, then, how true we are to all we have learned and hold dear. Again, not to say that’s the path I’ve seen all along or, once seen, to which I’ve held. Far from it. It’s only in the past few years I’ve even had such thoughts. And how strange a thought, I realize, that climbing may not be the point, especially to put forth on a climbing site. But there it is: rock as mere "geography," -- stunning, superb geography, but only that compared to our inner geography, the growing and carving of our lives, which gives all things the only meaning they have.
We salute Stoney as we have on this thread. We salute times there and friends there and on all the walls. But, finally, we also must hope to salute ... ourselves.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Feb 15, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
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"A strong camaraderie existed among the more habitual climbers, the regulars, and he found strength in this relationship. There was, again, a sense of separation and special-ness among them. They were separated from society by their unusual passion and their willingness to pay an extreme price. Most were woefully poor but had the hubris to take pride in their indigence -- one young man actually bragging about his ability to live on six hundred dollars a year. Many saw poverty as a rejection, an act of holy indifference. But others were simply students. They’d discovered a rather engaging, even consuming hobby and the powerful redolence of rebellion and danger. Their goal was a strange mixture of physical hardness, psychological control and emotional sensitivity in the celebration of natural beauty.
And Stony Point was their place of embarkation; it was safe and comfortable, yet it offered a sense of waiting adventure. Like so much in L.A. offering possibilities, it teased, cajoled and sometimes repelled one into pursuing further excitement."
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Feb 15, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Bump for the new-found happiness that comes from living 8 minutes from such a historic place in technical climbing.
It's like the start, 21 years ago at the UW rock, all over.
The learning texture feels the same.
Thanks to all the historical perspectives - I have a new-found appreciation for what initially seemed like a loud, ugly and friable crag.
Beginnings come from the least expected places, teaching and the simple and not-so-simple lessons of Stoney have renewed that fire.
Erik Wolfe
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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BooDAWG!
Ken Boche I sent you an email!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 12:50am PT
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just some great temps for this week!
enjoy the pic's!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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okay ken Boche!
lets clean up your route!
thank's maybe you can identify these bolts as yours...if not then we will erase them..to give credit and restore the f.A!
R.M.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 19, 2010 - 05:46am PT
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Pyro:
I got an email from Don Lauria who said that he didn’t remember any bolts from the F.A.
On thinking about the F.A., I don’t remember placing bolts anywhere at Stoney. Furthermore, I didn’t name the route, “Boche Death Route.” As I recall, the name was created by my friends to describe the consequence of taking a fall from high up on the route, so I think the original route never had any bolts in it.
If I had placed any bolts, they’d have been ¼” X 1” Rawl Drives with Leeper hangers such as shown in the pic below.
Even if the bolts are removed, if they are used for aid, the climb could still be done if the holes are usable with “hooks” such as the custom ones pictured below that were made by Dennis Hennek.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 19, 2010 - 11:15am PT
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Bo.... so let me get this straight. TBDR was done originally on tied off pins?
friggen wild. Two of my friends, Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973 in preparation for the second accent of "Moses" in Utah. Scared the heck out of them... that ratty rock at Stoney.
One time we were hanging out at the "Oliver Moon Hotel", around midnight, somebody suggested we go and do the bolt ladder at SP by moonlight. We gathered the gear and in no time we were at the start of the climb. After a hanging party at the belay bolts, I was given the task of leading the last part.... when I hit the summit and went to go clip the anchors I interrupted a loving couple who were sharing a private moment at the time. "Sorry, excuse me, I need to clip those bolts so my friends can get up here" ..... she had nice ones too. :>)
So much has gone down at Stoney, it's quite a place to climb at.
Any more stories are welcome.
Guy Keesee
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 19, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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Yes, Guy; that's the best Don Lauria (who did the second ascent) & I can remember, and it makes sense, given the name that grew up around the route.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 19, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
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I've been wondering about a couple of wino characters that frequented SP during the early sixties: One's name was Phil Mesch (sp?); I can't remember the other's. They were actually pretty good climbers on their favorite routes, and they always drank cheap Ripple wine and bragged about how much better their climbing got as an afternoon and their drunkeness progressed. Have there been any postings about them? They always added a lot of color and laughter to our "more serious" approach to climbing. VERY entertaining! Anyone have any pix of them?
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Feb 19, 2010 - 03:22pm PT
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I have bouldered more at Stoney Point than any living person.
Sad but true.
Juan
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 19, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
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Juan,
Only if you're older than me.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
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Boche
i've already started to annotate my guide books as the "boche death route". i've pondered about nailing that thing for some time, but it goes free! my next question is do we keep a bolt to protect the next victim....i'll start by top roping it first.
guyman
you said "Hank Lavene and Fred Lytle (sp?) nailed that sucker in 1973".
how bad azz!
later,
R.M.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 20, 2010 - 12:19am PT
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If the FFA was led with the protection of a bolt, perhaps its OK to leave a bolt in to retain the character of the FFA.
Aid pins have the "It should slow me down" aspect...
I may not be the best one to decide this. Thanks for asking...
But I do like the idea of retaining the character of the commitment & confidence it takes to make the lead where there are serious consequences if the leader falls.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2010 - 03:14am PT
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Feb 21, 2010 - 12:34am PT
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even though the rock was too wet to climb it was still a gorgeous day out at Stoney today!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 12:38am PT
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just some Kool temps for today!
have fun!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 24, 2010 - 02:53am PT
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Stellar picture, BoulderKitty!
Thanks for your photos and the update and your editing of the BDR, Pyro. Made wish I could have disapparated there for this afternoon's workout.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Feb 24, 2010 - 10:04am PT
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Pyro, that don't look like no boot flake to me.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Feb 24, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
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Occasionally bored and dumb can lead to a good time. Or, if nothing else, a few good yuks.
I lived in the canyon for years, so it was a good 30+ minute drive to get to Stoney. So one lazy Saturday, probably late 1977, during a torrential rainstorm we decided to put down ours beers and hit the rock. We were not too motivated, so we decided to bring more beer than gear. So my fellow droog and I loaded up the beer, the gear, and other whatnots and at the last minute decided to throw in the etriers.
By the time we got to Stoney, our excitement had diminished to the point of complete dereliction. The rain had increased quite a bit, so that didn't help. Not wanting to waste the aforementioned beer we figured we best work up a plan. Like I said, we were a lazy lot, so we hit the Jesus Wall and pulled out the trees. We aided our way half way up, parked it on one of the bolts and pulled out the beer. Thinking back, I hope we would have clipped a few of those old rusty dogs.
We hung there drinking beer for a least an hour, I have no idea what the commuters must have thought. What I don't remember is how we left. Did we go up, did we go down? I have no idea. Surprisingly, no one bothered us or even stopped at the park. I imagine today the cops would be all over that.
Ah to be young, dumb and bored.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 11:51am PT
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Old Topanga lizard thanks!
that old aid line was sure fun. I've practiced rope solo-techniques quite a bit on that thing.
Boche~the photo's will continue! maybe someday we all could get together for the perfect photo on the summit boulder and boulder one. Cole would love that pic for his documentry!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 25, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
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This is still my favorite Stoney pic.
Sometime if I get time I'll have to describe my early adventures out at Stoney with two fierce, late, great rock warriors - Billy Westbay, and John Bachar, circa 1975, when both guys were at their peak. Some incredible stuff, and scary.
Stoney has more history than just about any place I can imagine. If those boulders could talk!
JL
PS: Per folks back channeling me about the pic below, I believe it's from around 1978, when Yabo and I first worked out the moves on Yabo Arete and a bunch of other stuff during that time - there was intense bouldering activity there for a few years, a sort of jump up in intensity that Stoney goes through here and there.
I think this Yabo Aret pic was around the time I got my first pair of Fires, by driving up to Ventura and paying cash to Bachar. Bachar and Graham imported the boots for a while in the late 70s, early 80s.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Feb 25, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
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So I hope the bad bolts are still on the main wall bolt ladder.
Thats what made it fun. Really.
Juan
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 25, 2010 - 01:08pm PT
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Juan...
This is weird, but true. Some joker pulled all the old bolts, on Rap, and redrilled "new" holes in completely different spots! Then he disappeared for a while. New hardware appeared in the "new drilled holes" but it's NOT CLIMBING GEAR.... it looks like really crappy Hardware from Home Depot glued in. The new "Shuts" at the 1/2 way point look like the stuff you screw into the 2x4's in the garage to hang bikes from. Very mankey.
Pyro went out and pulled all that sh#t down, thank god, and is replacing new bolts in the original 1/4 inch locations.
We are sort of concerned with the slack liners setting up on regular 3/8 bolts placed for the few Top Ropes that have bolted anchors. We are finding loose bolts with fractures in the stone.
Anybody know the math on the amount of force required to pull a line really tight? I bet it exceeds the recommended load rating for 3/8 climbing bolts, hangers. By a TON.
Weld-it where are you?????
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Feb 25, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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Thread brings back many good memories of climbing Tues/Thurs evenings back in the mid 80s-mid 90s with Bob Kamps, Herb Laeger, Guy Keesee, Kris Solem, Jan and Owen Fordham, Chris Hsu, Judy and Mark Powell, Mark Frumkin, Jan McCollum and my partner at the time, Karen Brotter. I dug up a few old photos to add to the mix.
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Feb 25, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
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The slackliners question reminds me of some other good times at Stoney. We always thought we would end up on the Lost Arrow, we never did, so we set up a tyrolean traverse at Stoney to practice our style. By the way, I'm sure our style was terrible. We set it up above and beyond the top of the Jesus Wall, I don't think it was longer than 80'. Someday I'll pull out those old slides and figure out how to post on this site. I've got a lot of old slides from Stoney, Suicide and Socal that somebody may enjoy. Maybe some of you old dogs could be lurking in the background.
I did put some of that to use on the Sun Ribbon, so it wasn't all for not.
Of course what I remember most about Stoney from the 70's was the broken glass everywhere. You couldn't walk barefoot anywhere. It's been decades, is it still that bad?
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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Glass still everywhere? Pretty much once you get away from Boulder one, Turlock, etc. (Edit: agree with GGnome, the main boulder areas are better than ever.)
Been taking my daughter out and establishing a small circuit that she can do. Her favorite boulder is the Pyramid over by Lions Head Mantles. I can't do half of what I used to, but I'm working on it!
"Off the couch" was a whole lot easier before I became a potato. Haha.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Feb 25, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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Actually the glass is much better than it used to be. They closed Stoney after dark so the lowlifes can't drink there all night and break bottles. Much of the glass has been crushed into invisibility or washed away and the place looks pretty good. The graffiti is way down too although we still get an occassional tagger work the place over. Jim Wilson cleans a lot of that mess up.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:07am PT
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just remember that rock climbing is dangerous.
"sandstone rock is estimated 800psi then it'll fail".
Guyman that person pulled,patched, drilled and drilled then placed a lag screw.
Guyman ~ my guess is that this person was doing a good deed, but needs better instruction on how to do bolt replacement.
here is my original post about this mess
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=769607&msg=770612#msg770612
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Feb 26, 2010 - 12:18am PT
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Pyro, is that "new" belay one you placed? Those new bolts look a bit too close to the old holes for my liking. Rule of thumb has always been a minimum of 10 bolt diameters from another hole, crack, fissure, etc. Even more if it's a deep bolt.
At least you got the right brew :)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:21am PT
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madbolter i like you already.
"i went three inches or one good finger length to the upper right of the original FA anchor".
RM
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
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weld_it wrote:
"That might have been my bro. I'll talk to him tonight after class"
then his response: "Is it dry yet? My bro is ready to drill"
Pyro response: please keep this thread alive with information and some good historical stuff. Weld_it i can only say if you like to bolt then give me a call i'll put you to work.
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
topanga, CA
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Feb 26, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
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Stoney........ When is El Nino done?
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Feb 27, 2010 - 01:49am PT
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rincon, that you on the right?http://www.supertopo.com/photos/2/44/145950_13909_XL.jpg
I used to boulder with you a lot in the mid 90s. Don't recall your name though...Steve was it?
Pyro, you got contact info for Mark Frunkin? Haven't seen him in god, 15-20 years?
And Keesee...I'm looking to get back out and into the swing again. When are you guys out there? Still the Tues/Thurs gig?
Reading this old thread makes me want to reconnect with all you hasbeens. I'll even bring the beer ;)
Drop me a line, rex(at)bigwall.com
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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madbolter~ i sent you an email.
i left a message with mark so he should get back to me.
c-ya on tue and thur when the time is right.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
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just a soaked week4stoney!
if the ground is wet then don't climb.
water and sandstone is combination for rock failure.
this time a year you just have to wait it out.
cheers!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Rex.... how are you?
Tuesday- Thursday, it's on. .... as soon as the sunshine returns.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles
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Great thread. I used to spend some fun afternoons out there late 80's. Anyone remember the asian kid named Kwan? I always thought he was one of the most naturally talented climbers I'd seen...and Art of Climbing! Loved that place. It was the first indoor wall I ever touched, and the whole place smelled like gear.
I should have more memories than I do, but it's not called Stoney for nothing!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2010 - 12:28am PT
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Just some good photos.
Thanks Mark frunkin.
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Hey Guy...I'm doing good. Trying to get back into it. Have had a bunch of back problems that have really slowed me down. That's on top of the weight I put on over the last 8 yrs or so while I've been "on the couch." Dropped a bunch of it, now just working to stretch and strengthen the lower back. Probably start seeing me and my 11 yr old daughter out there again, especially once daylight savings kicks in. Hard for us to get out there before 6 unless I'm bringing my "hell on wheels" 4 yr old boy too. Not sure how conducive that would be to actually climbing, haha.
BruceAnderson, I remember Kwan. Agree, he was a natural. So freakin' light I could throw him to the top of Turlock myself. LOL. I probably climbed with you during those years too.
Pyro, thanks for Marks number. I haven't had a chance to connect yet, but I will!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Ryan - Get Marks pic of the hawk walking on the ground up here! Lates-
Matt
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 02:54am PT
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okay matty but first here is....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 03:16am PT
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hello Falcon!
nice to meet you.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2010 - 03:45am PT
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thanks for look'n.
cheers!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
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just a cold breeze out there today!
enjoy.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2010 - 01:51pm PT
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Rich always a pleasure hanging with ya!
smoke and beer will flow this tuesday!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 12, 2010 - 03:08pm PT
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It was pretty cold yesterday at Stoney.
That makes for good friction.
The whole crew decided it was dry enuf to go around back and hit up the Yabo Boulder.
Aaron Sandlow was up first.
Stoney is starting to bloom
Some old dude on a V1.... crank it out.
Next up, De-Meat-fritz, tackles the Largonaught.
So these two classics are now chalked up.
We then turned our attention to a problem to the right of the Yabo Arete, named "Ready for takeoff" first done by some "Brit" in the 80's (Thaw or J. Woodward) Ryan Murphy was able to do the second around the late 90's to put it back on the map.
Well it didn't go down today, maybe next time.
Toprope tuesdays are going to start up next Tuesday, so bring your harness, we set up some classic TR's and all are welcome to come out and play. (n00bs are always welcome, esp cute girls)
GK
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Mar 12, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
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Guy - The only time I ever met Yabo he was workin on that problem to the right of the arete, in the area pictured at the end of your last set of photos there. I think this was an evening in '88. Zulim & Phuvel were there too. He said he had done it once and was trying to get it again. He called the problem "Boy Elroy." (Jetsons Boulder) Anyhow, he was working it and pulled this critical crimper hold off. I have this hold now in my personal collection. Someday when human cloning is permitted I've this sample with skin cells on it we can use to make a Yabo clone. ;-)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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nice! great shots Guy and Mark.
thanks-for posting
happy to see aaron, demit, and rock brother crank'n as usual.
Yabo's arete is one of my favorite boulder problems.
Spider~ when Ryan Murphy cranked it out he already understood that everything at stoney has already been done by some great rock climber.
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Mar 13, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
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I think this trend is great. Having climbed at Stoney for 20 years. I now read some of the same discussions that have been going on at Stoney for years. Things like bolting, that NEW problem that hasn't ever been done before, and the all time favorite "DON'T CLIMB HERE AFTER THE RAIN".
Just remember, there will always be someone bolting out there thinking that they are doing a good service. The new problem, isn't new, and they will always be that someone who can't wait for dry rock.
MMM
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 15, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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Big Piton.
So true! That is what makes it so timeless..............
Top Rope Tuesday starts tomorrow, 03/16/10. We will set up some of the more sunny climbs to enjoy.
Please stop by and climb if your reading this.
We don't bite.
GK
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Mar 15, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
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Seeing Aaron and Dr. Fritz brings back old memories on those antique classics. That high shite is always exciting no matter the era.
JL
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 16, 2010 - 10:49am PT
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The Dawson Bros.
Good one John.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Mar 16, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
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Great pictures of the wildlife and wild flowers at Stoney in the spring. Here's one of my own from back in the day.
Please tell more about Top-Rope Tuesdays. What time would it typically begin and end. Russ McLean lives nearby and would like to stop at Stoney after work. But he doesn't have a computer system that allows him to visit the Taco. And what other days are there "regulars" out there?
Thanks.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Peenemunde
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Mar 16, 2010 - 07:13pm PT
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If survive my drug withdrawls I plan to be at Stoney Every Thur.
Juan
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Mar 16, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
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Yes, on the front wall in at least one spot. Was just there. Those two guys in that photo were there. Hang dogging their pathetic asses up some "new 5.12" line. They never did get it, buncha blowhards-
M
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Mar 17, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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which one? the poser or the wanker?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2010 - 01:14am PT
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just the start of the Top rope season
enjoy!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2010 - 03:15am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2010 - 12:29am PT
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just a rare Thursday at the point!
first we meet up with guyman at Turlock rock
after some brews and bud were ready to move over to Spirals travere.
one by one we all take a sprint for the traverse "there and back".
after spirals it's time to move on to "Block head boulder"!
Andrew Rock climbing "cleared for take off".
today was a stoked4climbing kinda day!
cheers!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 20, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
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Nice send Andrew!! So it happened on Thursday! Look out B & Y
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2010 - 01:44am PT
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don't stomp on (flowers name)!
this little guy is parked right of the trail. i went back the other day to get it in the sun and it had not been fully opened.
please bring your selection of fine wine!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
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Good job Andrew! Did anyone else send too? Yafer when you coming out? I have a dentist appt. on Tuesday, so see you all on Thursday.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Mar 21, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Nice send, Andrew. That problem looks hard and WAY tall.
JL
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2010 - 01:25am PT
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Just a spring kind'a day!
on top-rope tuesday all climbers are welcome to join us!
"SPSAR" volunteer members! thanks for helping that stuck climber!
we started by meeting at Turlock rock.
we set up top ropes at the back area.
we like this back area because the climbing is way cool!
peace!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 24, 2010 - 10:42am PT
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Yesterday at Stoney Point we had a close call.
A turon was stuck up around the base of the climb named "Pink Drips".
SPSAR (Stoney Point Search and Rescue) was called out and they responded magnificently, reaching the base in under 10 min. SPSAR removed the victim without incident or further injury. Drugs and Alcohol were definitely involved.
The rescue team was made up of "Mike" and "Gary" (pictured above).
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Mar 24, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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Kris was there? I missed it, damn dentist. Hope you are doing well Kris. I cant wait to be back at the needles with you this summer. See you all Thursday.
Matt
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 24, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
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Man I gotta get out there.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 24, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
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Location, location, location. If Stoney Point wasn't near a metropolitan area it would rarely, if ever, be visited.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 24, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
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If Stoney Point wasn't near a metropolitan area it would rarely, if ever, be visited.
I'm not so sure. If those sandstone boulders were strewn about somewhere up in the Owens Valley it would be just beautiful.
Matty - I'm doing well, be seeing you out there soon...
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SPSAR
Mountain climber
North Hollywood, CA
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Mar 25, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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As incident commander (Nick), I greatly thank my partner Gus for his invaluable assistance in yesterday's close call. CRISIS AVERTED, haha.
My favorite part was getting to the guy and asking him "So you're the stuck guy?" and he responded dead serious "No not stuck, just scared."
See you guys out there soon. Cheers.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 01:03am PT
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welcome to the taco!
"SPSAR" is the way to go.
i went back and corrected your names.
Nick and Gus thanks!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Mar 25, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
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A ways' back, I posted the story with pictures of the "Traffic Diversion" that was instigated by the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers. Here's a B&W pic of the diversion in full operation taken from the top of Stoney.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 11:48pm PT
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Boodawg: is there a traffic light at that spot today? (Santa Susana rd and Topanga cyn.). i've been told that Topanga rd wasn't a two lane road as it is now and that the city had to add lots of dirt to raise it up.
did the city have to remove tose boulders?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2010 - 12:40am PT
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Just went over to Stoney Points backside for some Tope- Rope.
we set up at Nabisco cyn.
smearing, grunting,chalking and crimping.
weather: "nice with some clouds".
cheers!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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if tuolumne were in Nova Scotia you might not know of it. Kris would!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Pyro: In the bottom, right corner of the B&W photo, one can see the very top of the concrete buttress that forms the west end of the train tunnel. I spoke with Hennek about it, and he said that the traffic light is farther up the hill than what this pic shows. Hope this helps.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2010 - 12:44am PT
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Boodawg i got a question for you!
you posted a pic a couple of months ago of sculpters crack being aid climbed by dennis. my question is did you guys also climb the faint crescent shaped aid line to the left of "sculpters crack" ?if not maybe you could identify it for us locals
thank-you!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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I don't think any of our group ever did that climb. I would guess it was first done after 1974. Sorry I couldn't help more.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2010 - 11:34am PT
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Damn i was hoping for another "Boche death route" account. "after 1974" is a start. i'll keep asking around. one of these days i'll toprope that thing to see what it's all about. have a good weekend and i'll update this thread as always on tue or wed nite!
Thank's ken.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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I think that one is known as "Carpenter's Crack". BITD (1968) Russ Mclean did it on aid and then established a TR. LAter on I seem to remember Rich Lake getting on it and sending.
Waugh might have a better memory. I think the name came from a local back in the late 60s with the name of Jim Carpenter who did the FA.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Waugh might have a better memory.
Jack. NOT. Waugh is pretty burned out. :>)
I sort of recall nailing that in 74-75ish..... tied off baby angles, sand in your face.
Rich Lake ...now that is a name from the past, he set up shop in that canyon and could climb all of those climbs.
GK
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Thanks, Pyro, for looking out for Stoney.
Check your email for a lead to Carpenter's Crack.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nice shots Mark! Really like the dog nose shot, winner right there. Keep em coming. See you soon.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 07:43am PT
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flower pic's look damn good! thanks mark.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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I like the one of the girl in the red dress.
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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I
Stoney
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2010 - 05:13pm PT
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MisterE.... you have been invited to hang with the gang so why have'nt we seen you? this tuesday is toprope tuesday feel free to join us.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
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Brooks
Boulder climber
Chatsworth, CA
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Apr 16, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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It's amazing what you'll find when you Google yourself. LOL
I've been loving reading this thread, so I thought I'd give it a little love bump for good measure.
On a related note, I would love to find a web savvy individual to take over the Bouldering at Stoney Point web site and forums. Passion for Stoney required. :-)
http://boulderstoney.com
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Apr 16, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
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Hey Brooks,
You have been asking for years and received offers to do so. One was from me and I never received a reply. I have since moved.
Good Luck MMM
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
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just a happy420!
these rains are nice but have interrupted climbing at stoney before! the flowers need this rain.
cheers!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 24, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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[]
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
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Super Stoney Temps!
Enjoy!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 27, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
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pyro's work put to the test. another fine day at stoney
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Tfish
Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 27, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
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Pyro's work is amazing!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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TR tuesday was excellent!
with a few weeks of this "el nino gold" we finally were able to show off a Top rope tuesday!
enjoy!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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Stoney Point...The cradle of climbing.
Respectfully, Yafer, it goes back a lot farther than Stoney Point...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
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for those that know him I had to put Bo down last sat. my pal & good bud.a dam good boy.
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Apr 28, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
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Mark,
So sorry to hear about Bo. He was such a sweet doggy!
Steph
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Apr 28, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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Thought this would be appropriate on this thread too, enjoy.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Apr 28, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
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MARK - BO was great, his memory will live on, I always enjoyed him.
Here are some shots of Aaron and Andrew sending "Sudden Impact" from a few weeks ago. Sudden Impact started as aid practice, hence the pin scars. Originally it was free climbed with a toprope, then soloed. I'm not sure who the first person to "boulder" the climb was (without a roped ascent first).
These first two show Aaron. Sudden Impact is STEEP, just like the hillside it sits on. If you peel from the top without a spot, you might find yourself rolling 30ft down the hill into the poison oak patch where stoney rattlesnakes are known to frequent.
Andrew sent next, it was his first time, GO ANDREW!!!
Sticks it
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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Loomis thank's! love that sequence pic of B1 boulder.
nice...!
Matty thank-you for posting the "Sudden impact".
Sorry Mark. going to miss bo.
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Apr 29, 2010 - 02:05am PT
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Boot flake, November 1986
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 29, 2010 - 04:20am PT
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Sort of crazy that Matty wrote about the very route I was talking about this weekend out at Roubidoux, which also has some highball stuff.
To my knowledge, Sudden Impact was first bouldered by Bachar in the early to mid 1980s (no crash pads). There used to be a ton of bushes and poison oak around the area so you had to be very careful. I did the climb once, with no rope, and found the top to be pretty sketchy. And the lower pockets were full of grain and grit. It was probably an aid climb in the 1960s. Bachar's rating for the climb was 5.12-. I hope this has cleaned up because the moves are classic, the route had a great heritage, but it used to be pretty crappy, quality wise.
Don't fall . . .
JL
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 29, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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mat & scott nice shots
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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cradle or not
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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Frumy thanks for the photo's keep em coming!
last night was one of the better boulder sessions at the point!
big turn out. unfortunataley I did'nt bring the camera! anyway, i'll post some more Stoney pic's in the next week!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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I like frummy's style!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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thanks frumy!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 12, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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May 12, 2010 - 09:40pm PT
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If you look careful in the last pic. You will see our FA. Yes, inside the tunnel. During a cold and rainy day. We aided up the inside & wanted to aid down the other. But, the trains wouldn't stop coming.
MMM
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 12, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 14, 2010 - 02:47am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 16, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
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keep'em coming Mark! the photo's are awesome.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2010 - 07:58pm PT
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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May 17, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
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Coincidences abound... About six years ago, I was in the market for a Mini Cooper--preferably used. ...looked all over, was willing to fly as far as Seattle to drive one home, even had a car head-hunter on the look out for one. No luck. No used Minis to be found for love or money back then.
Eventually, on cars.com or summat, I found one that exactly fit my requirements. It turned out that the owner lived on the the frontage road just west of Stoney Point. In Pyro's photo, you can just see the trees south of the house near that open field.
Still driving that rig...
How weird was that!?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
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rmuir "hopefully you went to the point that day!"
happy climbing!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 18, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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to wet for climbing - click to enlarge
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2010 - 01:35am PT
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today were some good temps!
locals there were climbing and chatting.
Unknown free soloist on the 5.7 crack.
Nite!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 21, 2010 - 03:31am PT
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WELD-IT did you send these guys?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 24, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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Just had to take a picture of that old oak tree near boulder one!
temps were perfect today.
never get tired of taking that shot! because it changes each month.
we had a good turn out.
from the distance you could see some bouldering going on.
Roger working on Maggies farm.
James climbing the dihedral just left of Hot tuna.
all in all Russ mclean came out! had a good feel so he want's to see us some more.
Cheers!
RM
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 26, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 27, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
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I know we need the rain, but MY KINGDOM FOR A SUNNY CLIMBING DAY TODAY!oh well I'll just watch her all day.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2010 - 12:00am PT
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hey Frumy i like the Turlock with the river pic. eventually mother nature will carve out some more Turlock rock for us to climb!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 28, 2010 - 01:23am PT
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in the mean time i like lauren becall
I mean
mother nature would want it that way.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 30, 2010 - 07:03pm PT
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saturday at stoney I noticed a group of cub/boy scout types with clueless leaders headed up the top side at stoney. One hour later -
today thing are look much better.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2010 - 01:12am PT
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just enjoy the good temps because summer is right around the corner.
Top-rope tuesday is happening.
enjoy!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2010 - 11:48am PT
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fatrad my take is porn industry is taking quite a hit ever since the condom thing.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 11, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
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porn at stoney no.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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damn! Frumy c-ya on tue.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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temps are gonna be hot today so, i'm going to the Beach.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
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temps were perfect yestarday afternoon!
had a great time boldering. would post new pic's buut can't because computer is down!
cheers!
RM
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 11:45am PT
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Temporary operations have been moved to the Malibu's Apes wall..
have fun in the summer sun!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 30, 2010 - 07:38pm PT
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RYAN STONEY OR MALIBU ON THUR.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
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Fattad Be nice! I can't drunk'n post any Mas!
besides Bobby loves the Ape wall!
I love the Ape wall!
"if you see me there with the ropes set up the feel free to "TR" that Ape wall.."
Frumy i'll text you!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
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HOT TEMPS HOT TEMPS:please be careful hot temps.
load extra beer!
cooler temp bouldeing is near the beach!
take care!
RM
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Tfish
Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 20, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
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It's not too hot at night.
Or in the morning...
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Tfish
Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jul 20, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
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Tool Me? Aren't you supposed to say "No Homo" before you say gay comments?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
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awww!
what a great way to spend the evening!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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Temps just sucked for the most part because the day was HOT!
However, towards the evening it got good!
Cole brought out a video camera.
just some Turlock rock "Boulder2" bouldering..
enjoy!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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BooDawg I have been rummaging through my slides and look what I came up with!
Ken Boche on the 1st ascent of Boche's Death Route - Stoney Point 1965
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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nice pic what very nice pic!
Boodawg that's awesome thanks Don!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
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Temps were perfect yestarday!
Jans B-day was on the 25th so we all went over to the las Toros mexican resturant for a few Cadillac Margaritas.
cheers!
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Aug 13, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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You never know what you'll see at Stoney Point.
Although Chatsworth is the porn capitol.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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nice!
stoney shots with stoney girls.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2010 - 06:05pm PT
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temps are too hot for me i'm off to the Bu.
later yall!
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BooDawg
Social climber
On the Road, Pacific Slope
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Aug 18, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
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Hey Don!
What a great pic you found of the Death Route's FA! Better than any of mine, I think!
Looking forward to seeing you soon!
Ken
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 18, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Yep, great pic.
Thanks for sharing!
This picture I took a few years ago, though I can't recognize the climbers, I do know the dog! That's Sticker up there anchored to the top of Turlock.
And Rokki contemplates life as a ranch dog...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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Today temps were scortching!
Metrolink cruised on bye while climbers traverse at Nabisco cyn.
Kooler temps were found at the back side. it's here that we spoke and chatted with each other. we were all excited because of a birthday party!
Happy B-day Aaron Sandlow!
Guyman being interviewed by the local electronic paper.
nite temps finaly got good the Traverse named.... Hot Tuna!
Enjoy!
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Butoou
Sport climber
Malibu
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Aug 25, 2010 - 02:09am PT
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Happy Birthday Aaron!!!
From the Bu
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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Pyr0 = imposter !
Pyr0 learn to copy the name right.......you ain't Kooool!
i heard Stoney is being published in climbing mag this next month, so my thread can't be that bad.
Bu like a good swell is hitting us right now, so go catch the wave at Malibu before it slows down...!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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Fatty...... Yabo gets credit for the First and Waugh got the second on the Tuna.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
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sure thing Fatty why don't you show up and give credit! instead of hiding behind the lcd come on over and introduce yourself. would love to meet you!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
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Stoney Point report from tue nite!
temps were perfect many were here to climb.
cheers!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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here are some more pics from the Tue and thur crowd
later!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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it wasn't easy but i got there around 8 this morning and had an hour and half of tolerable temps. also met some dedicated boulderers (not that i'm one), including too-tall greg telling me about his latest v7 or 8. nice place in the morning--some real september cool. these guys get there at 6:30 sometimes.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2010 - 12:14pm PT
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temps are gonna be hot today tony!
might have to take time to go get into the P.O.
early morning sessions are very nice. best time to get out in the hot summer dayz are either early morning or later evening.
i'll continue to post more pics of the many climbers that enjoy the point for what it is.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Pyro.......
heading out there right now, to boulder with Yapher, come on out.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
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i'll show up tomorrow! i'll even vouch for some good ole' top rope climbing.
talk to ya later guy!
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Tfish
Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Sep 10, 2010 - 03:19pm PT
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Since most of you guys are history freaks about stoney...Does anyone know whats up with the 1 random bolt in the roof in the middle? I know there are some bolts on Sandstorm to the right of hot tuna for an old aid route but just wondering what this one is about.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 10, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
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Tfish..... lots of old bolts abound, the aid climbers from the 40,50, and 60's left some fossils.
Is there a story about the bolt????
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
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Tfish~i've almost hit my head on that thing like a dozen or so times...becareful when at hot tuna.
i don't know the story about that thing. i'ts been there ever since i first started traversing the Tuna. in this pic the dude in the white's head is near it.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
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thank's fatty maybe we'll see you on tuesday!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2010 - 01:08am PT
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Sep 20, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
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You sure you didn't put in the bolt so you could hang dog Hot Tuna while you worked the moves for the FA fattrad?
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Sep 21, 2010 - 11:27am PT
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How do 10 people get put down for the first ascent? Isn't there only one first? I can see like 3 people for a team on a route, but a boulder problem?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 26, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Sep 26, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Sep 26, 2010 - 07:04pm PT
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Sep 27, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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The newest issue of Climbing mag just arrived, and it features Cole Gibsons well written Stoney Point article. I can't wait to see the documentary after watching the trailer, and now reading the story. Congratulations Cole, you did a great job and I hope it opens the door to many other opportunities.
Matt
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
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i love the stoney point documentry trailer. some of my friends got a kick out of it.
temps are blazed today matty!
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 27, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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Hey Pyro! Haven't checked in here since my #399 post on 8/18, but it's GREAT to see that you are still havin' fun out at old Stoney. Russ McLean told me that he met you and really enjoyed the time there. He's a bit of a stick-in-the-mud with all you hotties, but he's GOLD !!
Did ya' see my posting on Ancestors and Archiving when Russ and Hennek came up to Bishop this past Labor Day?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1271817/Ancestors-Archiving-Crossings-of-California-T-R
Cheers, Lad! Keep on keepin' on!
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Los Angeles
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Sep 28, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
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I just got into L.A, moving from Florida. I will be there at 8am tomorrow. Anyone want to sell a copy of urban rock?
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Sep 29, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
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Just buy the So Cal bouldering book by Craig Fry. Its got most of Stoney in it and every other spot in so cal. Mix that with Mountain Project and you're set.
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Los Angeles
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Sep 29, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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Pretty nice weather. Got hot around noon so we left. Put some time in on Kodas corner and knocked out a lot of easy stuff with my wife.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 06:32pm PT
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Kodas is fun but work on getting all four of the arete's including Yabo's. that's a perfect area to hang out at..
happy one year of the Stoney thread!
Cheers!
time to have a cold one.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
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Fry guide=best!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 29, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
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Funny. The other day for some reason I was looking through my copy of John Sherman's old Hueco Tanks guidebook. I always got a laugh out of this line, in the intro...
ENTERING THE PARK --
As you approach Hueco Tanks from the south, your first glimpse of he rocks will be dissappointing, unless you're from Stoney Point. The park appears to be nothing more than a couple of enormous brown lumps...
:-)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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another good day had. STONEY POINT GUIDE "Hellweg & fisher" 1982 still the best
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
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thanks Frumy too bad my camera took a crap would have loved to get some shotz of the sunset myself..had alot of fun with all of ya like always.
hellweg & Fisher's guide is good because of the informative history that it talks about, but totally different from Fry's guide..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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looking good for this afternoon temps. good the rocks not wet
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 12:27am PT
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damn!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Los Angeles
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Last Saturday. Good times! Also, Hows the rock for this weekend? Has it been raining up there Wednesday and today?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Rained all day yesterday. It's soaked
Public event: STONY POINT CLEANUP DAY
REI is having it's yearly "adopt a crag" event there on Saturday Oct 30th.
8:00AM-12.00PM.
Free registration online.
http://www.rei.com/event/12359/session/15184
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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if we get no more rain i'm sure the weekend will be fine. sol & i will walk around stoney today if its soaked i'll say something later. no climbing today.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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According to our Hall Monitor Pyro ^^^ you should stay off it for "5" days. ;) Two rain-free days should dry out the sunny-side rock. Just pull down gently my friends and leave your fumbling flake-yanker friends at home.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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pyro is doing his best for the rock. which is a lot more than i can say for rei. at least from what i've seen the last few years.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apples and Oranges Frumy. Just quoting Pyro's own advice.
For real. Peace and have a nice weekend everyone.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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yeah for real peace!
three to five is what the locals tell me.
ohh and maid stop calling me hall monitor..call me the wall monitor..did you get up the bolt ladder?
also you saidJust pull down gently my friends and leave your fumbling flake-yanker friends at home.
lol!
:)
i gotta work on Sat so count me out.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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i like both apples & oranges. stoney point is sandstone the out side looks dry long before its ready to be climbed on. 3 - 5 days after a deep long rain. year before last it was taking as long as 7 - 8 days to dry out. last year each storm would bring heat & wind, stoney was drying out in 2 days. the rock is too damp today. if it warms up it will be fine sat. if not it will not be.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 12, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2010 - 10:24pm PT
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that's me speaking for Baja Rich.
all who read this please help my buddy out. if you live in the LA Ventura area only.
my buddy rich's bike broke. if any of you have a clunker bike sitting in the back yard and would love to to give it up then pass it to me on tue nite at Stoney Point.
i'll give it to Baja rich!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 15, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
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STONEY POINT A GREAT TRAINING GROUND - after many hard days of work at stoney you could go this way.or after many hard days at stoney this could be you.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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So I guess that was pretty good stuff....
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 18, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
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we had better stuff the next day.
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Los Angeles
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Oct 23, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
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When did it rain last? I'm thinking of heading there around 4 pm today
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 27, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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the winds dried things out nicely.
for those of you who don't think stoney is green , you need to stop by & take a walk.
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Los Angeles
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Oct 27, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
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Yeah, it is looking really nice. I will probably be up there today around 4ish. If anyone wants to bring an extra pad my wife is working the top section of masters and would love to have more than the single pad we have.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Dude... where are your helmets? Our local safety inspector could give you a citation.
Now these guys are safe ^^^
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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justthemaid I appreciate your concern. & them hats look nice, but I assure you all climbers pictured here have heads thick as stone. - NO really have you ever tried talking to any of us.
but again thanks for the thought.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
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windy and warm weather this week for stoney.
have fun!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Evidently the joke needs explanation? I was poking fun of the helmet noobs... not the regulars.... and yes- really I've "talked" to and hung out with practically everyone over the years. All our local guys are a great crew.
Mr e. and I went out this morning early. Whew! it got up to 85 degrees by 9:30 AM.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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no exp. needed- them hats said it all. i was funnen with your funnen.
glad you got out this morning- it was beautiful out before the heat.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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sick from food poison last night - dragging myself to the point now
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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the weather was perfect this weekend.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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good to go around 2
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 15, 2010 - 02:55am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 15, 2010 - 07:57pm PT
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nov 19, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 19, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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Was that you you there last night Tfish?
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nov 19, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
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Yeah I had the top bunk and my buddy Mike was at the belay station 1/2 way up.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Nov 29, 2010 - 01:59am PT
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How do you think Stoney will be tomorrow, Monday? Rained Saturday night, yeah? thanks, Joe
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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went out to Stoney today. Ground, and rock were dry; warm temps also.
One of my favorite problems(bitd) was the center of the north face on the Pyramid boulder. It used to go at V0. Someone has enhanced the holds. This thing is barely a problem anymore. Sad.
If you can't climb the problem, stay home or find something within your skill level. I've backed off many a problem because of that. I didn't come back with a chisel.
sorry for the rant.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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good rant
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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10b I agree 100%.
Something is Freaking Wrong with some of the "climbers" today.
sad really
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
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manufactured hold makers suck!
i like those mantles on pyramid boulder.
i remember earlier this year we caught some kid taking chips with a chisel out of boulder 1. i asked him why?.... he said he wanted to make a foot hold just to get to the top of boulder one.
chipper's suck azz!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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stony is a fine place, and it's great to have a guidebook for it, work out your favorite problems and circuit and know the history of it.
however, i've had some time on my hands lately and have been exploring, just for the hell of it and also for want of weekday partners, the rest of the santa susanas and venues in the santa monicas and elsewhere in ventura county. i can't believe the amount of unexplored, unclimbed or very sparsely climbed rock out there. of course, none of it compares to climbing at tahquitz, josh or the sierra. most of the rock is as crummy as stoney, some is worse, some is better. but if you've gotten used to the pleasures and dangers of santa susanna sandstone, it's good to get out a bit and broaden your perspectives. stoney can be such a fishbowl.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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But Tony, we go to be in that fishbowl. Swimming around with all of our friends.
Yesterday afternoon the clouds broke up and the sun came out and everyone showed up a boulder 1. It was great and many hard problems were attempted or done. Just what a community crag is all about.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Headed there for the first time right now...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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sh#t I was just headed out to climb & it started to pour.
Sat. in the fishbowl - watching two of the best work
& push everyone forward.
I've paid good money to see lesser athletes with big echos do less.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Ryan,
Take Healyje to the Candy Cat :-)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
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sure thing R.B.
good to see flood in the mix of things.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
LA
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I wish I could have made it out there this weekend...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Well, I happened to walk around the big rock out in the open by the road while the older of those two guys were there. It was just as it started to rain or I would have hung out and possibly introduced myself.
As it was I ended up talking to some folks TRing the big gash in the main wall facing the road, then went up top and back down the other side. Jumped on a top-rope for a moment that a guy named Jerry and a bunch of youngsters had set up on an overhanging face with a bunch of pockets on it.
All-in-all a fun place - sure beats the hell out of not having it there. Is the candy cat a boulder or climb?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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What as fricken nice morning at stoney. Let Sol out of the truck & two large hawks sprang out of the oak tree by the road. took a few shoots put the camera away & 30 feet from turlock (2) I think coopers hawks flue 10 feet over my head & into the trees behind turlock. As i get the camera back out a small hawk or falcon came right over me. + blue jays - mocking birds - yellow finches - black capped chickadees - robins & more. All in less than 200 feet.All this morning & many more.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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& the wild life at stoney goes on - monday morning it was about birds
the bird is a little different today
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 15, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Stoney is so awesome.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 15, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
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After everyone was gone last night, the cops did about 5 laps around Stoney last night. I dunno if they were looking for something or just keeping an eye out, but it was cool having some extra light when I was topping out.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 16, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
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Big Piton
Trad climber
Ventura
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Dec 16, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
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Hey Stoney Climbers,
I really enjoy your postings. I have move to Ventura, a few years ago. I climbed there for twenty years. Either getting ready for the next weekend, next big thing and teaching. Even though it isn't the greatest stone to climb on. It's close and there is a lot of it. I have spent a lot of time exploring up off Rocky Peak Road. Even found some petrified wood in a rock as I passed by it. If you have a day and want to get some good exploring in, go to the saddle on R.R. Road and head towards Simi. Some good climbing still to be found up there. Enjoy and I miss having rock 20 mins away. Watch out for the poison oak.
MMM
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 17, 2010 - 12:35am PT
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good thing about the fire a couple years ago - it burned away most of the poison oak.
good climbing & hiking to you.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2010 - 11:58am PT
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please respect the many boulder problems that great climbers have grabbed onto.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 20, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
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very nice pic's Mark
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
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What a great morning at stoney. Sol thinks it's way more fun when it's raining.
first day in awhile no hawks - instead lots of crows.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 03:40pm PT
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I gotta get my kayak down there.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
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there is even white water for you.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
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Hahahaha sweeeeetttt
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 22, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
|
So who were the two guys in the previous pics and who was the older guy named Jerry who was nice enough to give me a ride on his rope?
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Dec 22, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
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thanks for rescuing Solstice.
you are a good man
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 22, 2010 - 09:02pm PT
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thank you 10b4me - Sol is about as cool a bud as i could have.
the two guys in my picture are Mike Flood & Jan McColum - both masters - both will work to help anyone climb better.
you can see a little of jan's work on the thread ( Bacher -Yerian a short film )
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 24, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
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Mark. Why do you "photoshop" to make the GREEN look greener????
HaHaHaHaHaHa.....
Sol is the luckiest dog in the world 2 b sure.
Take care
and Merry Christmas to all...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 24, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
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MARRY CHRISTMAS GUY & thanks for a good year of getting out and going all over the place - even if i didn't climb much at all. I had a blast !!!
MARRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL - ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS IS WORLD PEACE.
(but a little happiness for all will do)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2010 - 12:03am PT
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happy holiday'z!
cheers!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 25, 2010 - 06:17pm PT
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Cheers and Merry Christmas. Missing Stoney today! Usually we can boulder on Christmas day but it is still way too wet for that.
Great pics Mark!!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 26, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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you can see Stoney from the city of Chatsworth.
can't wait to go climbing with that ole' Fossil!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Just finished climbing the Saddlepeak ridge slab!
i Zooooomed the camera over to the Point.
I took a zOOOOOOmed pic over my shoulder at Los Angeles!
just thinking of Stoney!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Telephoto?
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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is that the one at the top of hayvenhurst? reseda blvd?
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gmac
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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another fine day at stoney point...
taken with an iphone... so pretty it didn't matter.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Dang! Someone tagged "Mommy's Boys" now we'll have to call it "SOG."
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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Gmac Nice Shot!
it's always a fine day at the Point!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Thats not Mommys Boys is it??
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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I love taggers. If you catch them you get to paint them.
lots of fun for everyone.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
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it's either the taggers or the cities repainting that make Stoney look gross.
good times!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 11, 2011 - 03:57pm PT
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Yep, that's mamas boys.
Went out yesterday for a quick visit. The rock is still wet deep down in the cracks so be careful of what you pull on. Please test each flake before or as you climb. Hope the weather holds
I'll be back today and hope to see some of you there =)I'll bring my D5 to administer beatdowns to all hold breakers. taggers too.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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go Aaron! Hey matty you like your new hammer?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 13, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
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looks like a great day at the point
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 14, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
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Fire across from stoney
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabon movin on
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Jan 15, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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Matty u sonoofabichsubliminalpuuuunk.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 22, 2011 - 12:50am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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OfBlinkingThings
Boulder climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 24, 2011 - 12:27am PT
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Anyone else see that the big flake on Scorpion has been broken? It was one of my favorite warm-ups and now it is in crap condition. I am going to try to clean it soon and see how stiff it is now that you can't yolk hard and get high feet.
This is why we let stuff dry off!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2011 - 01:00am PT
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have not bouldered the scorpin in a few seasons.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 12:49am PT
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It always feels so good being the last one at Stoney.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2011 - 02:04am PT
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i remember parking my VW up at the park-n-ride right where Topaga ended. i'd hit the cag before work. i'm into getting a good burn.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 27, 2011 - 10:17am PT
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i'm into getting a good burn.
Hey PYRO, nice triple entendre! Hope to see you soon.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 29, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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It always feels good being the first at stoney. Pulling up no other cars - the ground still damp - the dogs running with their noses getting wet. All kinds of birds at work doing what they do best.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
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Yeah, first is prolly better cuz you have sunlight.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2011 - 12:31am PT
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good temps to Tr Viscious.
followed by Spriral's.
cheers!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
|
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Does LJ always have the same shirt on when bouldering?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I saw the memorial to the train crash the other day:
Notice the snake in that first shot?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Matty very nice - He was paying is respects.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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SSSSSS!
what a bad day for metrolink!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Too bad whoever installed that plaqued botched the job with chisel and glue. Should have bolted it on with one 3/8 inch bolt in each corner...Petz longlife would be perfect, and very permanent.
Yeah, first is prolly better cuz you have sunlight.
Yep, plus we can do solar bong rips!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Anybody have a copy of the Climbing Mag. with the recent Stoney article? Guargoyle said he had submitted a photog. of me on an early ascent of "Yabo Arete" but I never got to see it, as in Newport Oregon (Where I live) there's not a big climbing community, but I'd like to see the shot. Even a low res scan, otherwise I have to try and find a copy somehow...:)
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mike Waugh above. There is a pic of Mike Paul on Yabo Arete P.51 right side but I don't have a scanner handy.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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barking at the moon
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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hey Watusi here is a scanned pic of you. Cole might have a better pic. i'll call him.
Yabo's Arete is one of my fav's.
P.S should'nt you be climbing the Yabo arete with a guitar in ur hand!
Frumy let's do lunch! fish and chip's.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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I like Yam & Sweat potato chips with my beer thank you. I'll bring the beer if you're making the
chips. just don't make them to small. this climbing weight thing is getting out of control when you start making your chips micro sized.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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sat. lots of nice people & very good climbers.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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It's a beautiful day in the neighborhood today. The sky is blue- the rock is dry & feels great - so would you be could you be my friend & go climbing with me today. I've got beer if you have chips life would be so nice.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Well you all missed a fine day of bouldering new problems by old people.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 11, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
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The point was perfect today. A little wind, but the rock was nice.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 11, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
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You know I almost got out there this morning for the first time in a long while. Pity. Maybe next week (if it doesn't rain).
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:15am PT
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Just a head's up! McClinski, my Canoga Park H.S., S '63 climbing buddy and I are planning to be out at Stoney on Wednesday, March 5th, work and weather permitting. Time is uncertain but mid-day is probably safe, for planning purposes, at least. Anyone else plan to be out there? Would love to connect with "regulars" even if we'd flounder compared to you all. Pyro! You around?!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 16, 2011 - 09:19am PT
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Hope too see you there Boo, although I have work until 3, Pyro probably workin too, he usually has Tuesdays off though, bigger crowd then too.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 16, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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I should be around & would like to meet you. You don't have to worry about being out bouldered by me. All I do is walk around talking to old friends & say I use to that one.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
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Boodawg i'd love to meet you. hope all is well. Frumy sorry you have poison oak.
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nature
climber
Mysore, India
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Feb 18, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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Should I set the sushi tent up on top of one of the rocks? Stoney Point SushiFest has a nice ring to it, eh?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2011 - 05:45pm PT
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bring a big tent nature! can't wait to see you again i had fun bouldering with you and E the other daY!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Feb 18, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
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Sushi tent should be back by Boulder 2 so that the riff raff don't see it from the road. You could probably get a permit from the city to drive in and party till 10 at night or so.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2011 - 12:40am PT
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i can say : my first real send of yabo's arete meant it had to go pad- less. killer arete!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Feb 20, 2011 - 01:13am PT
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EXCELLENT!!!!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Feb 20, 2011 - 01:31am PT
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Mega cheers Pyro for posting that! My bestest pal Guargoyle had shown it to me after Yabo had shown it to him. Stoney holds some of my greatest memories! My old pal Shawn Curtis pressing the "Lion's Head" when I was a lad...Priceless, Cheers! MP.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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happy cheers!
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shady
Trad climber
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Feb 20, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
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Hey Pyro, thanks for starting this thread.
From birth in 53' to 65' I lived about a 1/4 mile from Stoney.
While my father worked at rocket-dyne, stoney point was my playground.
Thanks to those of you who posted pictures of way-BITD. I can now put names to those I would pester for TRs when I was a single-digit-midget.
I had no idea who I was blessed with having as my early teachers/belay slaves. Your/their instruction, patience and kindness wasn't wasted.
I hadn't seen Stoney since then, not even a picture. This intarnet thang's pretty dang cool. Strange to see Stoney's now in the middle of suburbia.
Thanks again.
Shady
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Feb 20, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
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Made it out there for the first time last week with Mr E. Cool spot!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 20, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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Hey Boo,
March 5th is not a Wednesday - it's a Saturday and is the day McLean's father-in-law, Dick Sykes, is celebrating his 80th. So if it is in fact a Wednesday that you plan to meet at Stoney, is it going to be March 2nd or 9th?
I'm sure Russ and Lori will be in Ojai on the 5th - as will I.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
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Feb 20, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
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Thanks Don! It'll be Wednesday, March 2nd at Stoney. Any chance you can be down there then? I called Hennek about visiting him on the 3rd, but he may have to make a trip to Hemet. What's your plan for coming south? Was Hennek invited to Sykes' 80th? Will it be a bash or a small gathering of close friends & family?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
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now your talking Boo.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paradise
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Feb 21, 2011 - 12:02am PT
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I spoke with McLean a short while ago; sounds like a small gathering for Sykes for B-Day, but Russ says he'll be there if he doesn't have to work.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Feb 21, 2011 - 12:15am PT
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Yafer? Is that mine and Guar's pal Yafer? Well Sh#t Howdy brother! It has been a long time!! :) Tweaked the colours a little but Guar guaranteed this was when I fired this beauty created by our long lost superstar...Supposed third ascent as Mike got the immediate second. Back in the day Guargoyle and I myself used to run mega laps on "The Apes" getting ready for some stiff bouldering!!! Time sure does fly...Just me my "Bubba Brush" and "Ghetto Blaster"...No pads back then, even though my back sure would have welcomed them... :) Fun at Stoney for a misbegotten Woodsonite...
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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pyro, is that you? I would agree that padless is the proud way to send.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 25, 2011 - 12:20am PT
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Knott Pyro in photo, Watusi, but Pyro did it too.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
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M Brown yes matty is right! i remember cranking all the aretes in the back including Yabo's..that's of course when i was 20yrs old and only 130lbs.
today i'd be so happy to get the first move off the ground on Yabo's.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 25, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
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This morning.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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what are they doing on the wet sandstone rock.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 28, 2011 - 12:39am PT
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"what are they doing on the wet sandstone rock."
good point, what the hell?!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 28, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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The Oak tree at B1 Boulder is blooming & beautiful. & the birds were amazing too many types to count from humming birds to this beauty .
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Crash pads are not to be trusted.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2011 - 12:14am PT
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Frumy what happen?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Man it was bad. A very unfortunate gentleman fell from the boot flake or just above. I saw him at the boot flake & turned to deal with my dogs. Heard a sound turned & (I was up by the road) saw him hit the side of his pad - The pad went side ways & his legs slide out.
Compound fracture of both the tibia & fibula just above the ankle.
Really bad. I hope they can save his foot.
I wish the best for him. He handled it well.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Man that's grim. My best wishes to that guy. I don't like to finish off Boot Flake anymore, just for fear of something like that happening. After blowing out my knee a couple of times in my early 20s, I just have a hard time justifying the risk.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2011 - 10:48pm PT
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What a spectacular day! Temps were just right.
Nice to meet Ken Boche and Russ Mclean!
climber on Crystal Ball!
steve on Flinstone travese..
Train!
Hey Look Yabo's arete is being worked.... Nice!
Steve on sculpter traverse
hey Boodawg this "guy" wanted to meet you!
with love!
RM
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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Picture below is Ken on the FA: "Ken Boche death route" earlie 60's.
picture below from left to right Ken Boche and Russ Mclean.
original hard man.
FA: Ken boche death route early 60's.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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It was GREAT to meet you as well, Pyro! Thanks for posting up today's picture and the historic ones as well. My apologies to all, especially Guyman, for having to leave earlier than I would have liked. I'll be in and around Yosemite a lot this year and may attend the Joshua Tree gig April 1-2 as well as Facelift in Sept., plus various other trips to the L.A. Area, including March 18-21 give or take a few days. I look forward to meeting and making many new friends this year. Please don't be shy.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Well what a great morning. At around 8:45- 9:15 I saw an Owl. It was completely white, flew from the back wall to the eucalyptus trees east of pyramid rock. I also saw two Red Tails flying over boulder 1 & one Coopers hawk Between Turlock & Lions head.
It helps put to rest the image from Tuesday.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Mark, we were walking from Turlock to Spiral Traverse one evening and a white barn owl goes flying overhead, with about 50 black crows dive bombing him. Looked like something out of Lord of the Rings!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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What a nice day. & I'm to sick to do much.
I will still try to make it out before dark.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Hope to see you out there frumy.
Here is a picture of dameat (I think) on the johnson problem.
Now, I've never done it before, maybe someday.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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spenchur
climber
oak park
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about 3 years ago i fractured both ankles after a foothold crumbled under me reaching for the top on the right exit of bootflake. spun around 180degrees, both ankles rolled inward when i hit (and fully bottomed out) some dudes brand spankin new triple fold mad pad (pieces of shit). luckily my friend had a healthy supply of beer and bowls waiting for me in the car after carrying my ass directly up the hill.
the topper to the whole story...i was 18 when it happened and while driving home to puff the pain away i called my dad to tell him what happened and see what his opinion on first action was. He used to climb so he knew the part where i had fallen.
"Dad i think i just broke both my ankles..."
"oh shit! how did you do that?"
"i fell off the top of boot flake."
"what? why? thats the easy part!"
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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Nice pic of the DMeathead Matty.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Spenchur good story. Hope all is well with the ankles.
Sorry I could not make it out yesterday. I was to sick, but will make it out on thur. sick or not.
Sol & Molly were covered with ticks after our walk on Monday morning. Their season at stoney is over for awhile. First ticks then foxtails.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Hey, don't come to Stoney and get the rest of us sick! Stay away until you are better. Keesee already got everyone sick once this year...
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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It's OK Mark, I knew you probably wouldn't show so I brought my hat to make everyone feel at home =)
On the down side I hurt my shoulder last Monday and after yesterday it's clear that I need more rest (probably a few weeks). Hope to see you all soon-
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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matty do some push-up's! i'm going to start so that my shoulder doesn't get crappy too!
thank's g_gnome for the push up advice!
Spencer i wish my dad new a thing or two about Stoney point boulder problems. Keep Crank'n!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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No problem G_Gnome I was one of them. I won't do it to anyone else.
Thanks matty I feeling better knowing something got done in proper attire.
Take good care of that shoulder matty.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Yeah, I talked with the shoulder pro-keesee and Jan yesterday. I think pushups would be too much right now. I was doing pushups before I husrt myself. Was doing two sets of 25 no problem. I plan on doing no shoulder exercise this week until the pain goes away. Then I will start some light rotator cuff exercises. I'm thinking about seeing a doctor if it don't clear up quick. It's really frustrating because I hurt it last monday trying to do some rubberband work for that shoulder, but had bad technique or used to much resistance. I wish I could say I hurt it climbing. Hopefully it will heal without further problems and I'll be back training in a few weeks.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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matty it sounds like your crank'n and training hard.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
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Yo Matty if you decide to see a doc email me I'll give you the beta.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 10, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
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Thanks Kris, I'll let you know if I do. I was rereading the earlier threads here about shoulder problems and saw your gnarly shoulder rip photo. I iced my shoulder every hour or two last night and slept on my back with a pillow under my right elbow to take any pressure off my shoulder. Work up this morning and did not feel any pain as I slowly moved my shoulder through it's range of motion (never pushing or stretching it) so that was nice. It's halfway through the day now and I've been writing on the whiteboard all day so my shoulder has been moving a lot. I can feel a little bit of pain but it is dull and very light (1 or 2 out of 10) and only in certain positions. So I'm happy to see improvement that fast.
Thanks Pyro- I have been training hard - for ASTROMAN this fall!!! Hope this shoulder clears up so I can get back on the rock.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 11:24am PT
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Matty hope your doing well. Missed you yesterday at the point.
What a nice day & evening. Really good group of people yesterday.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 11, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
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Hey Matty. Hope yer doing okay. I would way rather give you Astroman beta than bad shoulder beta...
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 11, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
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Miss u guys too! I was visiting with gregg and allison yesterday. Had a lil jam session with their band. I don't feel anything in my shoulder today (yet) so that's good!
Kris- we've talked astroman before and I'm sure we will again, hopefully this summer when we replace west side story etc...! I'll bring my D5 hammer, that would be it's first use!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
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hopefully this summer when we replace west side story etc.. You guys are replacing the bolts on West Side Story? That would be some serious motivation to climb off the couch. Freaking amazing looking route.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 11, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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Greg Barnes, ASCA, gave me a big stash of bolts, hangers, drill bits etc., to be used replacing old hardware at The Needles. The list is long.
Pyro and I replaced the Dome Rock mega classic Saucer Full of Secrets if you want to tune up on something a bit spicy but way easier than West Side Story... Also Pipe Dreams and Carsonogenic are new. And I replaced the anchors on Don Juan Walls upper pitches. Man those were sketch.
All of those west face Magician Routes are amazing. Matty, good to hear you are down for some manual labor.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 15, 2011 - 02:08am PT
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another beautiful day at the point
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Mar 15, 2011 - 02:29am PT
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Russ and I may be out at Stoney on Monday next week. I'll be in L.A., so why not? Any takers for mid-day?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 15, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
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Mid day sounds good.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Mar 16, 2011 - 01:28am PT
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Here's one way to keep yur pooch out of trouble while bouldering...
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Mar 18, 2011 - 10:04am PT
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With rain coming this weekend, McClinski and I have changed our plans, so we plan to be out there this THIS MORNING until about noon. Looks like a nice day...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
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Rincon gotta love you bro!
Boodawg i'm factory working today so, i won't make it.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 20, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
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I'm sure it will be dry by tomorrow.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Mar 20, 2011 - 09:23pm PT
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Tommorow? You sure frumy?
Maybe Hot Tuna will still be dry...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 20, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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I think the water level is just below the 118 - maybe around mama's boys.
I hope those horse's in the back can swim.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2011 - 01:51am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 21, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 29, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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just wanted to take a second to say I love stoney point.
This rain is nice but common, I need to climb
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 30, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
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It will be dry & have great feel tomorrow.
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GnomicMaster
Mountain climber
Ventana Wilderness
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Mar 31, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
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Oh my god!! Thanks for the visual walk back through time! Stoney-F*#king-Point, where I first put my Kronehoffered feet onto Rock #1's face in 1967. Later came my RR's, then PAs, then RDs, the EBs, etc, etc, but the rocks look the same. I used to boulder there with Bob "Monkey Man" Kamps, and Mouth #1 and Mouth #2 (aka Skinny Paul Cowen and Chubby Greg Bender, who claimed he'd be the first one to third-class the Nose)and I'd watch in awe as Yabo did his thing. What a crazy rag-tag bunch of loons we were. And there was this old-timer (he was maybe late-40s/early-50s then, and I'm 61 now so in retro he seems young) who was of that school of sappy "character building" belief in climbing who would preach to us young climbers about the honor and "the brotherhood of the rope". I'll bet he was a Scoutmaster at one time, he was that corny. Once he was lecturing us out by Rock #1 about how to properly take a dump in the mountains. He actually squatted down to demonstrate the proper pooping posture. We young dudes could just stare at him in tickled disbelief.
Stoney was as much a weekly (daily?) excuse to gather with the outcasts of proper society as it was to hone our rock skills before graduation to the Big Ditch.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Im gonna try and go to Stoney tomorrow night. I know it was kinda foggy and rainy over the weekend, but I was up in the mountains where it was sunny so I don't know how wet it got. So should Stoney be dry and good to go tuesday night?
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Come on out.... it will be nice n dry.
Introduce yourself.
GK
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I was over at the freeway crack for most of the night and when I came back over to Stoney everyone was gone for the night. I found some gear there (really random to have at Stoney) Hit me up if any of you lost something there last night.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 10, 2011 - 01:02am PT
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iaclimber
Sport climber
Des Moines, IA
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Apr 10, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
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I'm going to be out in LA April 17-20 and hoping to do some climbing. If I show up at Stoney point on Sunday will there be people there to climb with? How about if I show up on a Wednesday morning?
Anyone interested in getting out and climbing either Sunday April 17th or Wed April 20th let me know.
Alan
alan_grau@yahoo.com
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 10, 2011 - 09:26pm PT
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ill be out on sunday, lets climb!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 10, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
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Keep work'n on those Stoney boulder problems mike B.
your doing a great job!
thank's for adding some pic's.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Apr 22, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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Great day at the point!
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Apr 22, 2011 - 10:36am PT
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Hey Guy nice to see you last night.
Some shots from last night.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Apr 22, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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nice crop of mustard. if you catch the greens when they're tender, they cook up pretty good, like kale or chard. olive oil, modena vinegar, salt and pepper, whatever.
when they've gone to flower it's too late, but maybe somebody knows how to pound that down into something to put on hot dogs.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Apr 22, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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who's got the double chalkbag technique goin on?
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Apr 22, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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NA_Kid, that would be my friend Albert or as we like to call him Chalky Chalk.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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thank's for the update matty and Bill O. looks like everybody was having fun.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 28, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 29, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
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And again a nice day at stoney!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Its Tuesday! Pack up your bag and get to SP...
Hope to see you Weld
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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V2 max for sure. Don't know about the greasy guy, but what's new.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Its an old aid line. True enuf....
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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There are 4 pigs. It's just the Pigs.
But I will huff & puff & not be able to blow a thing down.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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FACT: 3 LITTLE PIGS IS CHISSELED
Them things are pin scars. Then someone filled them with cement. Then someone else chiselled 'em out again.
Were you around when someone dug a tunnel straight down and under the SE corner of boulder 1? A few days later someone lost it in a toyota on Topanga Cyn Blvd and rolled it down the embankment where it came to rest.
Someone took the tires off it, dropped them in the hole by boulder 1 and buried them there. I'm sure you could dig them up now.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Was someone trying to get an epic FA with an underground sit start with that tunnel?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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World's easiest V0 (i think it's only 5.8 now)
Most climbed boulder problem in the world, most likely.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2011 - 01:45am PT
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Nice pic Spider!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Spider, you need to get out more often. Pigs is now about 5.10, a key foothold broke off a year or so ago.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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John Oliver & I buried the tires under boulder 1 - I don't know who dug the hole & I'm not telling were the tires & wheels came from, but John & I buried them & filled the hole - ditch or what ever in. It was deeper than I am tall - SE corner of rock 1, now called boulder 1.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Guyman, Climbed it on Sunday. Definitely 5.8. -- Compare it to the 5.7 on Boulder 2, the one right of the 5.8 Pin Scars and left of the 5.0 get-up/get-down.
If you are really strong, good with finger locks, know how to use your feet and can easily find footholds, it's like 5.6. I think the 5.10 rating is a hold over from the early 1980's guide. It was definitely a harder climb then AND shoes were not the same. I think it's a full grade easier if you're wearing Stealth C4 rubber on your feet.
It changes all the time. The pigs have been slowly getting wider. Footholds used to be harder but cups are starting to form due to heavy traffic.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Spider you are a sandbager.....
Pigs is much harder than any of those Turlock climbs, not as scarry but harder.
but keep it up.
part of the SP tradition.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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i don' t think Pyro should be allowed to post on his stoney point thread until he comes back out to stoney!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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^^^^^agree lets ban pyro until he can learn to be sociable.
no way pigs is 5.10, I third class it all the time.
ATTENTION - Big day tomorrow, Cole is finishing the filming of his stoney point documentary and wants to get some good shots of the tue/thur climbing community so come on down for a grand ole time. BBQ @ boulder 1 @ 7pm to end the day!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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You can't rate boulder problems - to a beginner the pigs are hard, if at first not impossible - once you've done them for a short while they are hard. Then they become easy & are always easy after that.
BBQ @ stoney - all is good.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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FACT: Hoof and Mouth is 5.8
(If you are 6'4" 150 lbs and can do 25 pull ups.)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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I like seven-up in my VO.
It was 5.8 after the hold broke, but not after the rock tilted.
Hot dogs tonight.
The bees in the back are bad ass this spring several of us were stung Tues.
My face looks great swollen - better than not.
New way to get rid of wrinkles - I wonder if I had been stung on both side of my face.
Well at least I can see out of my right eye.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Yeah I got stung tues back at Mozart. Agressive bees there. Might see y'all tonight...
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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time for a BBQ, and possibly climbing. but mostly a BBQ
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2011 - 05:46pm PT
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Mbrown what the heck! you can't get the supertopo gang against me or maybe you can. i'll take legal actions if i have too. Har har har!
good times!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Pryo if you don't have shaved ice for us on Tue. I think there is talk of banning you!?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Cool shot of "Master Waugh" Matty! If you see him tell him old Michael Paul sends his best regards!! :)
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Will do Mike, wish you were at the BBQ yesterday to tell him yourself!
Pyro - do I even know you? AWOL!!!! Deserter!!!! I have abandonment issues!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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A few pics from yesterdays session...
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Kris FYI... the "cutie" is Isabelle
She is one of the replacements, just one of a whole herd of young guns looking to take over.
Stoney is better than ever, lots of new faces, young motivated climbers, all looking to learn from us OLD TIMERS who can still show em the moves.
Now if we can only get PYRO to stop crawling through the poison oak, scrubbing moss and gluing choss, hangdoging and rapbolting..... he could come on out and show em the moves to.
late... the road calls
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Here's the deserter... Ha!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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ha ha ha!
guyman your statement is right except for the moss part. i'll cya tuesday!
i'll never play hookie from stoney again!
also Jan you look like a Truant officer!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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so pyro claims he will be at the point tuesday...
ill believe it when i see it.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I'll be at Josh, so it'll be up to someone else to make the arrest...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2011 - 05:38pm PT
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Mbrown if i make you a bag O heads will you help me move my bed outta the apt and into the condo?
also i think this thread should be "why pyro has not been to stoney".
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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SOWR very kool!
you need to connect with cole and his BBQ.
live BBQ with Kool sounds about the Point at the Point. very nice!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Stoney is dry this morning.
Drizzle in most of the valley but Chatsworth is a drier micro climate.
Missed you sowr.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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SOWR, thanks for posting the link. I actually helped shoot that. My producing partner on the Stoney Point doc, Matt, made that video for his sister's band. They are really good and I think the video turned out nice.
Here's a link to the other song we shot with them that day. We shot this right at sunrise.
http://vimeo.com/20665483
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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pyro, a bag of heads sounds like a deal!
You have my vote for the new name.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Pyro who's that? I once knew a guy called Pyro, but it's been so long that I'm not sure anymore.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Frumy, rumor is we will all meet this 'pyro' on tuesday
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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He better have shaved ice!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I hate to say it but pyro says he' s going to echo tomorrow...
Sorry Frumy no shaved ice
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2011 - 12:11am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 10, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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Why be the point closed?
No shaved ice.
What have I done to deserve this?
I already sleep in a hollow log & drink muddy water.
Who's the general?
My tues. world is spinning change.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 11, 2011 - 10:44am PT
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Another fine day at stoney.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 12, 2011 - 09:45am PT
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Cole is firing up the grill again, tonite.
So if your in the neighborhood, brings some dogs and some buns, and join in the fun.
Dont be bashful.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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May 12, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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Not usually Dingus. There is always the shady, north side to climb on. There are also a couple of canyons that stay pretty cool. There is the occassional 110 degree day but even then you can usually climb by 6:30 or so. The comraderie is great and the bouldering will give you stronger fingers than just about anywhere else.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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Waugh is setting up maggies and scurf!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 12, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
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Sorry guys. Game 7 of the Sharks / Red Wings series starts at 6 tonight and I just cannot miss that mayhem. Wings have made the big comeback from being down 3-0. My heroes!
See y'all next week.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 12, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
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so who thinks pyro will show up today?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 12, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
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Eye think Knott Mike...he probably has to work with his boner....
Pyro went down to the local arena.
he asked to see the manager man.
He came from his office & said, "Son can I help you?"
Ryan looked at him & said, "Yes you can."
"Cause I want to drive the zamboni.
I want to drive the zamboni.
(Yes I do.)"
Since pyro was young it had been his dream
to drive that there zamboni machine.
He would get shaved ice as cold as could be,
and bring on it out to 'ole stoney.
´Cause he likes to drive the zamboni.
He won't let me drive the zamboni.
The boys all said, "Ryan come out and climb,
we don't want excuses just get there on time.
Common pyro you've been climbing fer yeahrs."
If you don't come, we'll break down in tears.
´Cause he wants to drive the zamboni.
He aint got time for 'ole stoney.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 13, 2011 - 01:29am PT
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^^^hahaha
Thanks for that matty that was great! Pyro showed up! i could not believe it. where were you today?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 13, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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No pics - no show - I did not see him so I don't believe he was there.
I don't think Pyro likes me any more?
How was the BBQ?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 02:01am PT
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just ate a HOT-doG! the temps were perfect.
steve Top rope climbing in Nabisco Cyn
Stoney crew.
HOT MODEL SHOOT!
BBQ! cole is a genius.
PAD people being fed!
GET YOUR HOT DOG!
Thank's Cole what a fun time.
RM
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 13, 2011 - 10:45am PT
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Musta just missed you guys. I was there from 4-6 lappin maggies and working skurf. Had to jet to watch hockey, they lost, but at least I pulled down for a bit. See ya all's tuesday!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 14, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
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Matty ..... Pyro climbed Skurf... no falls! I guess the workouts at ECHO are working out for him.
Cole is giving Bobby Flay a run for his money...... more dogs next Thursday.
We ran out of BEER!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Someone needs to bring a keg.
K
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 15, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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FOUND...... climbing shoes.
You must have put em on the roof of your car, when you drove off they ended up in the middle of the road.....
claim em.... on the taco.
If not we will put them into the public box of shoes.
thx
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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hope the shoes go to good use!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 18, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 19, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
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Stoney OPEN or CLOSED today?
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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May 19, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
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Not sure if it's open or closed today but I know I won't be making it out there. Rain concerns made me make some work plans down here. But Thursday BBQ will return next week with a vengeance!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 19, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
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I'll be at stoney today rollin the hate train in weld_it's honor. Be there or be hated!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2011 - 12:54am PT
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it's open. we had a little rain spell but things should be good.
Frumy lets climb this weekend.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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May 20, 2011 - 03:35am PT
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came home a little drunk, just wanted to say that Pyro is da man! Way to start the thread and way to keep it going bro! Not sure if I'll make it out to Malibu this weekend but I will try my best...if not hope to see ya'll Thursday!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 20, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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I hurt my shoulder again =( Depressed and Frustrated. Doesn't look like I'll be in shape for Astroman this fall. Time to see a doctor.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 20, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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Sorry to hear that matty. get better and go send!
Who all is going to be out at the point today?
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
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May 20, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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That's shitty Matt. Sorry to hear.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2011 - 05:32pm PT
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sorry Matty! take time to heal that thing.
Mbrown won't make this evening gotta give the PS3 back to my neighbor.
call me for sunday.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 20, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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Bummer Mat. Check your ST email...
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 20, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
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pyro what kind of excuse is that?!? you have to drop something off next door? sounds time consuming..
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 24, 2011 - 10:14am PT
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Ahhh.... Tuesday. That means I need to drag the shoes and chalk bag to work and after... go hit Stoney.
For me its like some sort of hard drug habit, 38 years of the same old, same old stone.
What keeps me going out, are the problems. I can gauge my climbing level as I struggle to return to past glory.
But the BEST reason to go to The Point are the friends.
Some I only meet for an hour or so, travailing Brits, wandering Colorado climbers who stop by and check it out.
Others become familiar faces, friends eventually, and sometimes partners.
Some of these friends have been friends for almost four decades!!!!
So I hope to see some of you later today, we will have a blast.
Me
Mike
Da Meat
See you all later, oh yea COLE is cooking dogs today, not Thursday... he needs to work that day...
And MAYBE MR. PYRO will show.... Mr. E. also.... and Weld-it... he can point out the most resent chopping..
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 24, 2011 - 10:16am PT
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Location, location, location- the only reason this pitiful pile of rocks gets visited at all.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 24, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
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donini - How wrong you are!
I've bouldered from coast to coast & Europe
There is no place like Stoney point.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 24, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
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Who fixed page one of this thread? Good job.
Although I wish Jeff (Juan) was here to fix it.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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donini good to hear from ya! hope your rapture party was a hit!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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May 30, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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Saw two rattle snakes on Saturday. One baby on the trail to Spiral.
One old fatty with a broken rattle on the main trail. Watch your step.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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fact: i freesoloed motzart's in 1988 - no rope - all the way - in fire's and gramicci pants. u2 joshua tree on walkman cassette player - before you were born.
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
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MOATZART....motzart....
FACT: MOZART bitches.
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
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FACT#1
FACT#2
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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RAD!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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nice art work, but weld_it needs a bra.
stuck in josh all spring, somehow i'm starting to miss that sorry-ass santa susana. what's happening to me?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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bodhi! long time no see buddy! you and cole are never around anymore....
see all you stoney point folk in the fall
I' m off to the valley! muhaha
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2011 - 02:08am PT
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where is my lunch money Mike brown....!
please show us pictures of ur big sends.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Hey guys! I'm actually going to be able to make it out the Point tomorrow afternoon and am going to bring my BBQ set up. Would love to make this the biggest BBQ yet! Let me know on here or through text if you wanna bring hot dogs or chips or whatever.
Looking forward to a great thursday afternoon with the crew!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I have one more stoney point day. some stuff came up in town so i will be there tomorrow before heading north!
Cole, ill bring some dogs and buns. and some of those wonderful sweet potato chips! hah
See you all out there...lets make this BBQ big!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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HOWL - for sweet potato chips - BAAArrk.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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One more Thursday Mike!? Way to keep it real!!11
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moabbeth
Trad climber
Los Angeles/Moab
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For the life of me, I don't understand the love of that god forsaken place. I'm sure it was great in the day. It was the first place I climbed at given, then immediatly moved on to Tahquitz and JT.
The last time I went bouldering there I almost stepped in sh*t. The human kind. Between that and the broken glass everywhere, graffiti and such...ugh. No Mas.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Beth, I don' t know when you were last out at stoney point, but it has cleaned up quite a bit in the past few years. It is obviously not a place to compare to josh or tahquitz, but it is beautiful and amazing in its own way. You can learn tons of technique, drink beer, hang out with some truly bad-ass climbers(most being old farts), climb some more, and eat hot dogs. all in one day. Mabey you should come out to the point and climb with us today! BBQ @ 7 by boulder 1. Come be a part of one of the more historical climbing areas in the country.
http://vimeo.com/16051216
http://vimeo.com/15185035
Cheers,
Mike
EDIT: Look at what some of the locals do after some training at the point
http://vimeo.com/14878084
EDIT2: all the links are from our very own supertopo member cole. Thanks cole!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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moabbeth, good luck making it to out Tahquitz or Jtree for a boulder sesh on a Thursday after work!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
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beth what are you talking about? stoney has produced some of the best climbers in the WORLD!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Yer right Beth, ugly as sin.
Actually now that I think about it, I've seen more human excrement out back from Hidden Valley Campground than I ever have at Stoney.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 10, 2011 - 12:39am PT
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 10, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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oohhhh. Frumy i thought you were saying you photoshoped coles head on bodhi. hah
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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just a super special evening at Stoney!
park ur car and head downto the boulders.
here is boulder 1.
check out all the climbers.
more climbers..way cool! super friendly.
Frumy climbing no hands mean while aaron listens.
animals! eating hot dog'z.
everybody loves this place!
thanks Cole!
come to Stoney Point on Tue and Thurs for some climbing you will have fun.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 10, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
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Mbrown I did - can't tell can you?
Nice sends & lots of hard work & great boulding last night
Great D - sends.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Jun 10, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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nice yafer! cole is Rad!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 13, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Anybody want to join me for some slacklining at good ole' stoney today?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 13, 2011 - 03:49pm PT
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I thought you were off to the Valley about now! If not now, when?!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 13, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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Thursday! had some important stuff to take care of today and tomorrow. Are you going to be a the point tomorrow jan?
Frumy, my phone broke...E-mail Me
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 13, 2011 - 07:31pm PT
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jghedge, try coming out more than 4 times! you have to accept it for what it is and enjoy the awesome climbing and awesome community. I' m sick of people speaking poorly of SP when they have barley given it a chance. There IS a reason so many incredible climbers climb/climbed here. All I can say is you ARE missing out!!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:45am PT
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oh we will have fun at stoney climbing routes/problems that take traditional technique(smearing, mantles...all that good stuff). Please have fun clipping bolts in the santa monicas. Just watch out for those glued holds when you crank on them. wouldn' t want to take massive whippers on them bolts. : )
EDIT: not trying to sound like a jerk, but i love stoney and it bothers me when people call it crap!
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:30am PT
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People have always put Stoney Point down, it's easy: broken glass, graffiti, crowds and kids and weird stuff.
But I always loved the place. There was just something about that rock pile in the spring with its green grass and its boulders. The rock seemed almost soft and forgiving compared to the sharp, harsh granite of Tahquitz and the Valley. I still dream about the place, and some of the moves on those boulders will always be a part of my consciousness.
I watched folks like Kamps and Chouinard and Long and Bacher and Dent and Warender and Bender and Boche and learned, and as well, I met the greatest people out there. Stony Point offered me so much: an escape into possibilities, adventures, friendships. Let people say what they will about it, for me the place was a jewel set in the banal context of the San Fernando Valley and it gave me things I will always be grateful for: the realization of my own potential and an encouragement to adventure.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2011 - 09:45am PT
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Hay Joe....why bash Stoney?
If you dont wish to climb there fine.
You should thank people for going to SP.
That way they don't come and play at all the cool spots in the other MTs.and crowed you out.
But don't worry, we still love you and cant wait to see you around.
Peace Bro.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 14, 2011 - 10:43am PT
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I guess people don't realise that for most of us, Stoney is just a place to go AFTER WORK when we have a spare hour or so, to get in a bouldering workout. We don't go there on our days off. Then we go to all the GUD places, like Yosemite, Joshua Tree, The Needles, Tuolumne, Seki, etc, etc, etc...sheesh.
Those of us who live within a few minutes drive of Stoney are truly blessed with an awesome resource that could never be duplicated in any indoor gym.
Haters will hate :)
It's like RJ hating California and not actually having a clue.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 14, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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I dare say that most people would be better, stronger climbers if they spent some time at Stoney. The place gives you weird kinds of finger strength that is hard to come by anywhere else.
And the friendships that I have made at Stoney will always be there. Besides, where else can you find so many young people willing to be tortured by some old guy who shows them a few problems to 'try'. Muahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
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Jan it' s not stoney that give people that finger strength...it' s you showing everyone you Sh%$ micro crimp problems!
And who said we are willing to be tortured by you old farts...not willing but we deal with the torture for some weird reason. I think it' s because some of you are kinda cool for being old and all.
EDIT: I call them "sh%&" micro crimp problems because i can' t do them.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:23pm PT
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Joe, the same could be said for Rubidoux, Santee Boulders, etc. And have you ever seen those crappy boulders they climb in Central Park?!
And I whole heartedly agree that we got gypped. But we did get Malibu Creek, uhhhhh...
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
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We have an arch like Sharma's in Mallorca right off Corona Del Mar. Go DWS it.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
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Better yet, and taller:
Better landings too.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:58pm PT
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If Yosemite was north of the Arctic circle you would have never heard of it. Everything in life is about location. The fact is most of the people who defended Stoney Point - Like G_Gnome, Guyman, rincon, myself have climbed all over the world & probably been to more of the Sierras than Jghedge can imagine.
& then there are the young ones like Mbrown to good to even count - & experienced. & there are a number of these QUALITY young men & woman & they can climb.
The poor guy is letting his feeling get in the way of reality.
Stoney Point is like really fine wine in a beer bottle. It take a while to figure out it's not bad bear it's wine & then a little longer to figure it's not just wine but it's an excellent wine.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 02:59pm PT
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Fergit about the coast. The good stuff is in the high country...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
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Quote KSolem: Fergit about the coast. The good stuff is in the high country...
Spewed by someone with years and years of Point experience to his name!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
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Hey I'm not dissing The Point. Far from it.
Just trying to figure out how a California climber can feel "gypped."
Want water with your crags...?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
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Stoney Point is like cat piss in a beer bottle.
fixied
heh.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
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Speaking of the high country....
Is the road to Church Dome open yet?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
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Yes. And I'll be feeling really gypped when I am up there this weekend...
Catpiss? KNott...
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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There is nothing steep?
not steep enough for you?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:24pm PT
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Jghedge Incorrect on all accounts.
The best climbing come in all forms.
& know I say troll to you.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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can we make this thread about stoney point now?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
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I as most of the folks on this tread have been to Hueco tanks & most place that you might climb at & still think stoney is the place. If you want to be pushed forward - if you want to rest a injury - if you just need to stay in shape before your off climbing for the summer - If you want to see different techniques by masters there are very few places like Stoney.
MBrown I should be there by Three see you there.
Climb on.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
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Nothing Steep?? lol.
Secret SoCal areas? I'd show you mine but you wouldn't dig the approach hike.
And this is about Stoney. Stoney is a great place to get the skillz and strength to climb this stuff.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
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choss is pretty personal.
i just couldn't get into stoney, even though i lived nearby for a time and really wanted to like it. about once a year, i'd persuade myself that it'd work for me and head out. i can remember neal k persuading me to go out one day to try one of paul's new routes. sort of a dyno out of a layaway in a narrow gully. i got both feet on, pulled hard, and the hold promptly broke.
that was pretty much stoney for me. although i did at least two return visits for the direct start on crank queenie. the move was cool and the holds were glued, so i figured they were less likely to choss off. i'd never done the regular cq, so after i fired the move and was exiting on that rail, i was horrified to realize that it was crumbling underhand and i can recall thinking, great, i'm gonna die on this hunk in some smelly cave alongside the highway.
still like the idea of stoney and appreciate the history.
and god knows, i've had areas i loved where the rock was about as marginal.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
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From Sherman's old Hueco Tanks guide...
ENTERING THE PARK
As you approach Hueco Tanks from the south, your first glipmse of the rocks will be disappointing, unless you're from Stoney Point.
I always thought that was really funny.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^
hahaha
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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slab is way more bad-ass then your 115° clip ups : )
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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But slab/vertical will not get you in shape for steep
The reverse is equally true. It can be really entertaining to watch some steep sport climber get on a hard slab or thin technical vert.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
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Joe you know as well as I do that those are not sport climbs, and that the people who climb them are extremely well rounded climbers who train for and excell on all types of climbing. Ever done 5.13 slab? You won't get there doing a lot of steep clip ups.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Joe the spot in my pic is 2k from the car. Up 500 in the first mile, 1500 in the second. It's a nice hike. Too hot now though - maybe next winter?
The route is 12a.
There are a couple of 100 plus degree cracks up there too that are solid .12 trad.
The ibupro is not good for you if you take it regularly. Google up prostaglandid inhibitors. Try Traumeel tabs.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
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Yeah I remeber Huber's quote about that route, something to the effect that he is not a good crack climber but it is only 5.13b and "I have power to waste."
I think it is fair to say that what worked for him there probably won't work for most.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
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you can come show off on tue. or thur. you either have it or you don't.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 14, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Frumy, don't worry about Joe. He isn't social enough to want to come to Stoney anyway.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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hey these guy'z love the POINT!
and so do I.
that's all that matters!
here is a place of historical importance.
Manson's spahn ranch!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 14, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
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^^^^^^nice.
looks like all the women have left LA.
nttawwt
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
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yes.... we are going to "train" the new replacements to take over ALL CRAG'S in the U.S.
Hey look even the "L. A .P.D" are involved!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 15, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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sfa
Boulder climber
Los Angeles CA
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Jun 15, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
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I just started going to stony on a regular basis about 3 months ago. I have to say that while it isn't my favorite spot I've ever been in terms of the actual boulders. It is my favorite spot in terms of the atmosphere. Yeah, I know it's right near a busy road, and there are lot's of looky lu's walking about, the glass everywhere, yada yada yada. However, the people who call it home are some of the nicest, most welcoming, talented and knowledgeable people I've met in climbing.
Thanks to everyone who's shown me what they have there, see you Thursday night, and most likely Sunday too!
you guys are the best!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
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Thank's sfa!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 16, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
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He wasn't talking about you!
Besides, do you even still know how to get to Stoney?
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sfa
Boulder climber
Los Angeles CA
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Jun 16, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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hey, did it rain at all up there? It's my birthday and I was really looking forward to the weenie roast tonight!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 16, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
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yeah jan, who is this pyro guy? never seen him out at the point...well mabey once or twice but he is not a local thats for sure!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
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Mbrown i seen you at costco and now ur following my post what's the big idea!
aren't you and ur wall buddy in the valley yet?
jan am not climbing cuzz i have to learn to SURF this weekend.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 17, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
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Good luck with that! Didn't they explain yet that you are too fricken old to learn anything new, let alone something hard like surfing? Had I not learned when I was 13 I never could have been a surfer.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
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jan:) "shut up u old cummudgeon".
the waters great! instead of sitting in the dirt i'm hang'n with babes at the beach!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jun 21, 2011 - 01:02am PT
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Demons, Dogs & Dynos out at the Point
http://vimeo.com/25387048
Just a typical Thursday afternoon at Stoney Point...
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
LA
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Jun 21, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
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Is there room on the grill for veggie dogs?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 21, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
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Veggie dogs, turkey burgers, chicken sausages, what ever you need!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2011 - 02:13am PT
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Demond's, dyno's, dog's and G_Gnome's...very Kool Cole.
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Tattiya
Boulder climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 22, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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Hi everyone. Just started bouldering for the first time in February and started going to Stoney Point regularly at the beginning of April and needless to say, I'm in love.
I've got a couple photos to share. I'm hoping to capture more that look like this (Bob on The Boot):
Everything else is nothing to spectacular because I'm (thankfully) too busy climbing, but apparently I'm obsessed with Sticker.
My day to climb is Sunday and I've been out on a couple of Thursdays. I'm planning to be out more often and as weird as it sounds, respond surprisingly well to people yelling beta and encouragement. So, if you see me, give me a shout!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jun 22, 2011 - 11:38pm PT
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Yo fellow Stoney Point taco members! Tomorrow I will be bringing my BBQ out to the Point for another awesome Thursday boulder 1 grill fest, Boulderkitty will be joining me as well. I will fire the beast up around 6:45p. I encourage all to come out, hang and eat some dogs. Heck, if you feel up to it bring some supplies of your own, there's always room on the grill and hungry boulderers to feed!
If you think you can make it let me know on here so I can get an idea of how many people to expect.
The scene tomorrow should look something like this: http://vimeo.com/25387048
But don't let that scare you!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 23, 2011 - 11:02am PT
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Someone eat a hot dog for me. Thank you.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jun 23, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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Ohhhhhhh Yeaaaaaahhhhhh! BBQ Boulder 1 this afternoon! See you there!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jun 23, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
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Nice to see such a tight sense of community and joy at having such a fine resource nearby.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 23, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
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Yeah, we don't need no get togethers at some bar, we do this weekly and just bring our own booze!
The Stoney crowd is getting BIG!!!! BIG I tell ya!
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Capitan Jack
Trad climber
Los Angeles, WA
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Jun 24, 2011 - 01:40am PT
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Hey, I think I saw you guys filming out there today - close to B1 and then a redhead screaming bloody murder up top... or maybe that was a slasher flick...
Either way, fun times today. I'm new to Stoney but it's got to be the friendliest place I've ever been...
And I'm sending Slime on Sunday (I swear to God)!
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
LA
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Jun 24, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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Nope, that wasn't us. We were the ones actually climbing...
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Capitan Jack
Trad climber
Los Angeles, WA
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Jun 24, 2011 - 01:46am PT
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Hilarious! I recognize those dudes... I left a little after 7pm, how did I miss the bbq?!
Dusty rocks.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jun 24, 2011 - 01:58am PT
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Yo Captain Jack, next time you gotta make sure to stop by Boulder 1 for a hot dog and introduce yourself! Good luck on Slime!
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Capitan Jack
Trad climber
Los Angeles, WA
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Jun 24, 2011 - 02:33am PT
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Will do, thanks Cole.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jun 24, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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Anyone know how that guy who got taken away by the ambulance is? His foot was backwards when I walked by.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
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nice picture of the point boulderkitty.
i remember this guy had down climbed it then came back up!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 24, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
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Yeah, there was a good example of what falling 15 or 20 feet will do to a leg. Foot on sideways, bones sticking out, expensive and painful surgery and recovery still to come. Be careful out there and don't assume you can fall from that height without consequences. Climb in control!
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Dusty Johnson
Boulder climber
Santa Clarita, CA
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Jun 24, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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Extremely unfortunate Colton! We all try to push ourselves to the edge with every problem we send or attempt to send. For everybody that knows him keep us informed! Also, are the pictures posted yet?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 24, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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So who was the older, bald, heavy set guy named Gerry / Jerry the one day I've ever been there who said he'd been climbing there for 30 years. Don't know anything about him other than he was nice enough to give me a ride on one of his ropes.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Jun 24, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
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Was he surrounded by other old guys and hot young girls? If so Jerry Sears - nicest guy in the world. Has climbed there so much he likes to climb the TRs blindfolded. Lives 2 lives at once: Cowboy line dance till 2:00 am on saturday nights, shows up at Stoney by nine and TRs until Noon.
Likes to do "monster hikes." Such as Badwater to the top of Telescope peak in a push.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jun 28, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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Headed out to the Point around 3...who's comin with me?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jun 28, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
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I'm coming without you!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 28, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
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I'm with you in spirit. Climb - on.
They are right it is all about location - & I wish I was at that location NOW!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2011 - 01:54am PT
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the beach was perfect temps today! hope u all had fun climbing.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 29, 2011 - 03:23am PT
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RYAN it's not fair that you can go to the point & go to the beach instead & I've got water all around me & no f------ climbing --------- you could be doing both ----should be.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jun 29, 2011 - 03:51am PT
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ooooooooooohhhhhhhhh, wow the beach was super nice huh Ryan? Why don't you create a "beach" thread and then go post there!
Ya, I'm bitter! lol! Hope to see you at the Point sometime before winter...guess I know who to go to for surf lessons tho...
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 29, 2011 - 09:59am PT
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I was going to say that at least Stoney isn't as crowded as Malibu, but lately it's been hard to even find a parking spot at the point on Tues and Thurs.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:42pm PT
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A Brief Hello ump
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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hey cole take some advice from Rincon. rincon is a hard wall climber and well accomplished surfer. rincon is a inspiration to me and could be for you!
have a good fourth of JULY everybody!
rincon your rad!
parking at the point is similar to surfrider beach.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Of course Rob's moniker is about a CLIMBING area, not a surf spot.
Pyro, how's the surf lessons going? Total failure, right? I told you that you were too old to learn to surf!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Stoney had a distinguished visitor yesterday, the inimitable Chelsea Griffie.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
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jan it's going great you should come back to surfing like you did way back when.
Ksolem so goooood to see chelsea!
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margie
Boulder climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jul 11, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
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Hello! I am brand-new to the world of climbing and also to Stoney Point but I've been at least 2-3 times per week over the last month, and I've fallen in love :) :) I am looking to purchase a crash pad, but I don't have a ton of money to start off with. I went to the REI members-only sale this weekend but unfortunately the employees took off with all of the crash pads before the sale was even opened up to the members. I was hoping that someone might have an idea of where I can get a crash pad cheap or used, I'm not having much luck on my own and all of the climber friends that I have are in New Mexico...
Thank you so much for any help you can give!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 11, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
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Margie - If you come out tuesday after about 5 I have a beat up but good to use mad rock pad you my have.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 18, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
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Have pad will travel. I should be there again on tues. If you still need- want a pad.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2011 - 02:40am PT
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nice frumy!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 25, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Guyman will like & know what this is. See you tomorrow.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 27, 2011 - 01:46am PT
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Nice evening at stoney.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jul 27, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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Nice evening????
Are you nuts????
It was sooooo hot and muggy!!!!!!
But there were lots of nice friends there, and some nice eye candy!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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hot and muggy with eye candy. that's kool!
i was at beach looking at Bikini candy!
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margie
Boulder climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jul 27, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
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Frumy! I guess I thought that I would get an email when I got a reply! :/ sorry for being late. I was there yesterday! So much fun. Anyway I still need a pad, so if you still have one to share that would be utterly amazing!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 27, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
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I'll be there Thur. evening with pad. Climb on.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 28, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
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margie I'll start in the back around nabisco canyon & end up at either turlock or boulder 1 just before sun down.
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margie
Boulder climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jul 28, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
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Excellent. I usually spend a lot of time at Boulder 1 so I should see you around there! Thank you thank you thank you!!!
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 03:11am PT
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Also saw the old guard out there, Jan, Guy, Frumy,
et al. Nice. :)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
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very KOOOL!
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margie
Boulder climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Jul 29, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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Hi Frumy. I could not find you :(
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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I'm the old guy with the big dogs & brown hat.
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Pac8541
Trad climber
Queen Creek, AZ
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Jul 30, 2011 - 06:13am PT
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Just registered here, first post. Great to see all you guys paying homage to such a wonderful place. Even better to see it pretty much still looks the same. I was reborn there in '83 and remember a lot of the names of those mentioned. In fact, someone made a comment about the Art of Climbing shop on the first page... I actually worked there for a short time.
I'm in Phoenix now but everytime I go home to visit, I stop by and at least walk around a bit. My favorite memory is still topping out on The Iguana on the back side. My best climbing moment to date.
Its good to be here, thanks for having me.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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Just wanted to thank stoney and all my friends at stoney for geting me where i am today. I will upload some more photos when i get them developed. Thanks guys! Ill be coming by the point in a couple weeks.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
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Mike --- Tuolumne the last two weeks of August.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
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stay safe brother. when you come back well go find the MEDUSA!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Great evening at the point. A lot of new, young, old,expert,beginners,male, & female - all working together - going their own way & meeting back up. Pushing hard. I can barely move my left arm today. All is good at the point.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Just noticed Cole added a new trailer for the "alleged" stoney point documentary. (j/k)
http://vimeo.com/27140457
Great job Cole! Some nice interview snippets and cool photos/climbing shots. Cant wait to see the final product.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Everybody must be off climbing for the summer. It was a nice evening with a nice group of people. & Pho for dinner good call Aaron & Guyman.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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heading out to the point around 5ish today hope see some of you out there!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Always a great tyime at stoney...even in the scorching heat!
Photos by Garrett Randall
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Anybody up for Pho after Stoney tonight?
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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you know i am frumy!
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Aug 10, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 10, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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Nice BillO (why did you make it so green) & more importantly why didn't you get the gray out of Chris & my hair.
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Aug 10, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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Hey Frumy, the color boost/tweak just adds to the effect. And next time I'll get the grey out.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 10, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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Thanks I feel better.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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MBrown u look good! keep climbing hard brother.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 11, 2011 - 02:22am PT
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 02:54am PT
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
No one is from Yachats, OR... except maybe my parents and you. lol
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2011 - 01:08am PT
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:13am PT
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pyro..stoney saturday morning on my way north. You in?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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I'll show about 8 am.
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
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One more Boulder 1 Tilt Shift. and one Turlock.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
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Really nice cool morning at Stoney Point. Saw a few young guns I have not seen in a while.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Aug 14, 2011 - 02:35am PT
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Familiar faces sending classics and a new climber's joy as she topped out her first highball.
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Cooker
Mountain climber
LA, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:27am PT
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Stoney point is great, however, recently I had a bad experience.
On Sunday, July 24, three car windows were broken: two on a prius and one on a forerunner. Nothing was stolen, just smash and run vandalism. This happened around 9 am in the morning. The cars were parked early so they were close to the top of the parking area along Topanga Canyon Blvd. There were a fair number of climbers out and around, but apparently nobody saw anything.
I reported the incident with my truck to the police, but they didn't seem to be helpful. Oh, they did tell me that there is less police staff on the weekends, so if you're going to the point, during the week may give you better coverage ;-)
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Lots of action at Stoney this evening. Two kids got stuck, halfway up S Crack (5.3) on the front wall, just in time for the 8 o'clock news! Probably a dozen or more emergency vehicles parked on the street, plus a bunch of news choppers and LAFD helo above...
Doesn't slow down the climbers though...
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:55am PT
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300 foot cliff???
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 02:05am PT
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Great bouldering even with the show.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 03:48am PT
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300 foot cliff???
I know. lol
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:47am PT
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Why didn't someone just go up there and talk them down?
Oh well, it gave the authorities and news media something to do.
Going out for my summer thursday night clock-wise circuit tomorrow.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 12:48pm PT
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GOOD FUMBLE!!
SPSAR could'nt get there before LAFD?
i'm sitting having coffee and STONEY point made the news.
the reporter stated that the boys made a bad decision.
hHA! i wonder who put em to the task :)
stay safe!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
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Holy sh#t - "The response included 68 personnel, two department helicopters and a USAR team." http://www.firehouse.com/news/top-headlines/los-angeles-crews-rescue-teens-cliff
2 helicopters and 68 rescuers? WTF that is embarsing. And people wonder why rescues cost so much. Im sure anyone on here could have rescued those kids and would have been happy with a 12 pack.
At least this website only said 200 ft tall instead of 300. And called them hikers and not climbers.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 17, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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We were trapped till 10pm by the double parked emergency vehicles.
I always thought Stoney was about 500 feet tall.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 17, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
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Nice with the night bouldering shot. You should post more of those.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
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reminds me of an incident some years back when a noob gal hopped from one boulder to another at stoney, heard something go "crack" around her ankle, and decided it would be prudent not to move. this resulted in firetrucks, firemen galore, and a helicopter rescue. it made the l.a. times--always a slow news day for them.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
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That's to funny fatrad. We don't need anymore deaths at Stoney.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
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Why didn't you go get those boys down, Frumy??? :O ;)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
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Once the fire dept. was called they have to go by the book or the county is open for legal action.
Last year when young boys got them selfs stuck on the south side of jesus wall by pink drips we did go get a rope & safe them. But knot until they heard Guyman calling them little girls & saying they needed to steep down & over two steps. Once the long haired blond without a shirt & big muscles (the one that needed the rope) got over on safe ground he agreed with Guyman. & it was all laughs from there.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
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my first free solo of s-crack was just three years into climbing.
man i was freaked.
that middle section is the biz!
whatch out for bee'z.
be safe out there.
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sfa
Boulder climber
Los Angeles CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
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Headed to Stoney for a nice Thursday night session!! Hope to see some familiar faces!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 05:39pm PT
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Perhaps a final note re the rescue: I was watching KCAL news when they reported the incident. The reporter described the rescued as "experienced climbers".
Oh, and he said it was only 250 ft. tall.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 19, 2011 - 03:03am PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 19, 2011 - 03:26am PT
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Hey Pyro, I liked this photo. Is that S crack? I know nothing about Stoney.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Aug 19, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
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That's the Main Chimney 5.6 route....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 12:13pm PT
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Biotch the climber in red is on the 7crack.
s-crack is the crack to the left.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 19, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 19, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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yeah mark ive never seen you use feet...who does?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 19, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
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I have to get off the ground to use my feet & that doesn't happen very much.
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kelly slater
climber
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Aug 19, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
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at least there is a couple acres among the miles and miles of cement to "escape". just now to get rid of the car noise
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 19, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
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what car noise? never head anything of that nature at SP...too busy climbing...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Aug 20, 2011 - 12:03am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 20, 2011 - 01:36am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 20, 2011 - 01:41am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2011 - 02:17am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Good question. When I first saw it about 30+ years ago it had Turlock painted across the NW face.
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PastaPants
Boulder climber
Everywhere, CA
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:) <3 stoney
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Who is this "pyro" I keep hearing about? Do I know him? He never seem to be at stoney.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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Matty Matty how are you. got ur text the other day while climbing something hard at Echo. temps are too HOOOOT! i'm going to the beach instead...cya soon.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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i heard this mystical 'pyro' creature rides waves on some fiberglass board now. sounds somewhat badass. but still not as cool as climbing rocks...
Stoped by the point on monday...too hot... i would be surfing aswell if i where in so cal
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Yeah, but I heard he still isn't very good at it.
And have you been in the ocean in LA this year? It is still f*cking cold!!! I went body surfing last week and almost froze to death.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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Mbrown call me when you get home. we can go slab climbing..
G_gnome i heard you were a "1/2man" at zuma the other day. frumy went out yestarday.
water is 58-62 not that cold.
still lots of Bikini's out there.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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There were people scuba diving at Zuma - they were wearing 5 mil wetsuits! 5 mil just to stay warm. And it isn't like I have lots of extra padding like Mark and some other people to keep me warm. Give me 70 degree water and I will stay in all day. This was just a good reminder of why I climb now and no longer surf.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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& it's not like i'm going to lose any of my padding. Jan I went from a 7 mm to a 2-3 mm wet suit. That belly fat really works. I keep telling myself if I boulder & climb while i'm this heavy I'll get strong, but I just get injured.
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Anastasia
climber
I'm simply missing my mama.
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When I use to work in a Scuba Shop, we recommended people to wear 7 mil wetsuits for diving. Reason is the deeper you go, the more the neoprene compresses from the pressure becoming thinner. That can get pretty cold when you are down 70 feet... If you only stay on the surface, 3 mil is just fine.
Gnome, the fact is if a sissy girl like me can handle it... I know you can.
AFS
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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With regard to "Turlock" at Stony... It was Turlock! (as seen on the third page of this thread). The word was used as a kind of declaration or a kind of cheer. My friend's dad used to use it when I was in High School. He'd say a string of words that always started with Turlock! Push! Straight up!
Calabases! usually when someone scored a touch down or did something unexpectedly good. Wierd huh?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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No! The boulder had TURLOCK painted across it. Some mo from Turlock tagged Stoney. Just as the Jesus Wall is called that because it had the word Jesus painted on it for years!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Pyro, peace out buddy. This is NOT your thread and anyone is welcome to post here unless they start bagging on you. I am the only one allowed to do that.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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So Jesus the lord and savior tagged the wall or was it a Mexican named "Hey-Zuss"?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
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G_gnome love how you put it "MONO abs" do keep you warm.
Jan guy is right you gotta love somebody to hate em! get it outta here.
Coz could you maybe tell us a story about the medusa?
Tfish that's how the main wall was named the jesus wall.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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This thread demands more piks.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Which is why I always surfed at 4 steps just north of the county line. Ventura would even let us sleep on the beach.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
Cali
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Sep 11, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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Saturday at Stoney..Hot Tuna and Haircuts..
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Lord Wolf
Trad climber
west hills, CA
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Sep 12, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
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yeah, that was definitely unfortunate, I dont think homeboy was on top of that one, but the lady took it in stride, good for her.
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Lord Wolf
Trad climber
west hills, CA
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Sep 12, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
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Hey Monday Night climbing session is on!!!! The rock is not going to climb itself people!
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Lord Wolf
Trad climber
west hills, CA
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Sep 12, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
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And to anyone who is paying any attention to this thing this is Josh, and I found toyota keys right behind the scrambled eggs traverse, it was only a car key and a clicker so If anyone has lost it let me know and I will return, and I also found a bitchen pair of smith sunglasses so hit me up!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 13, 2011 - 10:04am PT
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Good job on the rescue....
Its TUESDAY, you know what that means?
Stoney after work.
See ya later.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
Cali
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Sep 13, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
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DMT - that hairy thing is a rappel rack...mainly used for long rappels so not really necessary. But the bars adjustable to vary the amount of friction put on the rope so for a first time rappeller I guess the dude thought it'd be a good idea for her to use one...he may have been right if she just only tied her hair back.
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Lord Wolf
Trad climber
west hills, CA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
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Aaron, that is a bitchin Picture! And again, anyone who has lost toyota car keys with a clicker I have them and want to return them as well as a pair of smith sunglasses so someone hit me up!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
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Another really nice afternoon & evening at the point.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2011 - 11:50am PT
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hey Frumy i did'nt make to ventura for surfing yestarday instead i cranked out some fun 12's at echo. maybe this sunday you can redeem your surfing soul.
Hot tuna and haircuts glad you got her outta that rap mess.
keep climbing bro!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 15, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
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That same thing happenned back around 1995. A girl with wonderful long blonde hair was rappelling down the main face out front and got her hair hopelessly tangled in her device. Her "guide" had only the one rope, so he had to run down to the road, procure another, run back up and set up before he could descend to her and administer the haircut.
She was not a happy camper, but for us monkeys down at boulder one it was quite a show.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 17, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Sep 18, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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Nice Mark! The rare kickstand start.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2011 - 01:03am PT
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Top rope Tuesday today!
Just wanted to set up some Tr's in Nabisco cyn.
robert climbing/working Scurf.
Cole working scurf and droid climbing Maggies farm all at the same time.
cole wanted to lean how to jug.
looking good bro!
McKenna climbing 5.7 chimney
this is oliver.
cheers!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Sep 21, 2011 - 10:36am PT
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Sep 21, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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Useful application of Lowe TriCam, as part of three-part TR anchor above Pin Scars Wall (other anchors being the nearly-dead tree, and slung boulder).
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 23, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
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Does anybody else see the problem with the tri cam or am I not seeing what I'm seeing?
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Sep 23, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
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Hi Frumy
The TriCam placement seemed good to me, or am I missing something? It is set in its designed camming mode, rather than working as a simple chock. I did re-orient a couple of 'biners after the photo was taken, but other than that this worked out well as part of a three-anchor sytem. I'm always appreciative of constructive comments on something as important as anchor building.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 23, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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Sandstone
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 23, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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Maybe it's my eyes but it looks like the cam is at the end of its arc, with little stone to hold it. I might be wrong.
It just looks like a good down and out pull and that thing is out of there.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Sep 23, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
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Just stuff a red camelot in that hole and be done with.
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Sep 23, 2011 - 06:47pm PT
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For a TriCam placement, it was pretty close to as good as they come, but in this photo it's difficult to see what's happening inside the pocket. I would call the stopper and TriCam placements pretty good, but not bomber. The tree tie-off was pretty good, but not bomber. The slung boulder was pretty good, but not bomber. The three together made for an acceptable TR anchor over a short, low-angle face. I put up this photo because getting a TR set up for Pin Scars is not a simple undertaking, and I wanted to show one possible way to go about it.
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Sep 23, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
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Just stuff a red camelot in that hole and be done with.
I did order a couple of Totem Cams the other day and I'll be anxious to see how they work in a shallow pocket like this.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Sep 23, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
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Hard to believe I don't have any photos of Stoney Point. I first went there in 1960 with Paul Gleason. I remember bouldering with (Roy?) Gorin. He commented that my guitar picking was 5.9! HA HA. I explored some of the Santa Susana Pass area while I was a Design Prof. at CSUN (1989) and hauled about 100 bags of trash out of Santa Susana Park where I eventually found some decent boulders and worked out a circuit.
One day I guess I wandered into a restricted area. Some helicopters followed me around for a while. Another memorable day- I was climbing around on Mozart when David Lee Roth showed up (around 1988?) We top roped several variations on the Beethoven and Mozart area. What a character. I was surprised he could actually climb.
Santa Susana Pass was magic in the spring. Turlock!
KL
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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keith i love it when people like you can chime in and share some stories of Stoney point.
hey Stoney pointers check out the new facelift t-shirts. the hat was dedicated to Stoney point! Thanks- to my long time climbing partner/buddy Dwight.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1610997/Facelift-Shirts
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
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Sep 26, 2011 - 02:18am PT
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Yes! Keith and Gary Cifra took me to Stoney for my first trip of roped climbing. We did Potholes on Turlock and Keith lead the Beehive to which I followed. I rented the worst shoes ever from Sports Chalet but it was an amazing day of climbing. Every time I climb Beehive I think of that day and how those two got me into climbing.....
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Brian More
climber
Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
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Sep 26, 2011 - 10:22am PT
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In response to the tri-cam/nut anchor post from O.D.:
The tri-cam is not in camming mode. it's not in any mode... If the tri-cam were in a parallel horizontal crack or pocket with downward pressure (from directly below) it would be in active camming mode. If it were slotted (preferably sideways) in a downward tapering constriction it would be in passive chock mode.
Brian
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 26, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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Brian you got that right.
O.D. if you aren't a Troll bring a coulpe tri cams out on a tuesday or thursday afternoon. With no malice meant there are a few oldfolks out there that will show you how to use them. The one you show in your picture is not the way they should be used & would not hold a fall.
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Sep 26, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
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Frumy, Riley, Brian -
No, not a troll, and no malice taken :-) I sensed your comments were made with the best intentions and I appreciate what's been said. I should have known better than to post a grainy cell phone pic to illustrate what was an unusual TriCam placement. I understand, and have used many, many times, TriCams in textbook horizontal placements and textbook vertical placements, and this was neither. You'd have to see what's happening inside the pocket to understand how the camming action was activated in this case -- particularly where and how the pivot point rested with respect to the irregular geometry of the pocket's interior. And, getting the sling to exit the pocket without getting pinched by the cam itself, as well as the expected direction of load (-45 degrees from horizontal) were important factors in this placement. You'll just have to trust me when I say it was a usable placement. I did have some old-style Friends with me, but the shallow placement put too much of a (potential) bending moment on the body of the unit. It was this pocket at Stoney that prompted me to look into a highly flexible-bodied unit like the TotemCam, or any of the modern incarnations of spring-loaded cams for that matter.
Regarding the 'old folks' who frequent Stoney, well...I was putting in pro and putting up routes long before most of you were in diapers. And I was using TriCams back when they were actually Lowe TriCams. I'm on the road most weeks so weeknights at Stoney don't work out for me, but it seems like Frumy is there often enough that we'll inevitably get a chance to meet. Until then, cheers!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2011 - 01:49am PT
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hey are you ready to meet the great Boodawg O.D.?
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Sep 28, 2011 - 08:33am PT
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These guys would chew me up and spit out the pieces. True legends. I can only wallow in my mediocrity. I hope my last posting was not interpreted as me saying I've put up routes at Stoney, which is certainly not the case. My routes are on obscure crags -- limestone outcrops mostly, in the Flathead Lake region of Northwestern Montana. Done with malleable pitons, 7/16" goldline rope, and Royal Robbins shoes.
Stoney Point is hallowed ground, and I barely feel worthy to play there.
p.s. I had an interesting encounter with one of Russ McLean's old climbing partners, which is recounted here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/538088/A-Charlie-Porter-Apparition
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sfa
Boulder climber
Los Angeles CA
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anyone know if it's dry enough to climb today?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Assuming it rained yesterday in chatsworth one day is knott enough, several days of hot weather to a week or more if it stays cold and overcast. I'd guess this weekend at the earliest and even then be careful of pulling on flakes. Pure friction problems are good whenever. Miss u stoney + crew. I'll be back soon!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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It's a little to wet. But I saw people heading into boulder so?
Hope to see you soon Matty.
A great Malibu day.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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So who was the bald Jerry/Gerry bigger guy who said he'd been climbing there for thirty years?
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Tattiya
Boulder climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 10, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Frumy, Justin and I went anyway on Thursday (10/6), but got rained out after 1.5 hours. But just enough time to finally get 1040. Brad was my witness. Wish you were there!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 10, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
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Tattiya I didn't think it would be long before that happened -- climb on.
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Bob you know
Trad climber
Woodland hills
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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Happy Birthday Dusty!!!
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Bob you know
Trad climber
Woodland hills
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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Next generation
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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the next generation is looking strong!
way to go!
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Oct 15, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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1k woohoo!
I used to go to Stoney every day after school.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 15, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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I would be glad to where their dad's shorts if I could climb like them there young boys.
WITHOUT THE PAIN.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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Lots of energy going on at STONEY lately.....
Dusty did go for the move... he cratered but vows to try again as soon as he heals up.
And Frummy just be happy you can still climb, sort of, most folks our age just sit around and post on the Taco......
See you Tuesday unless you wish to join us on Sunday.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2011 - 02:58pm PT
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Russ W your fish orders will increase knowing you posted on the Stoney thread. the new recruits will become wall climbers with fish sponsored gear!
i love my Fish ledge!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
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So thats the famous ledge????
Looks like it has a lot of dust on it, Pyro.
Whats up with that?
And we have not seen you around lately.
Are the rumors true?
That you are have taken up PADDLE BOARDING!
What the heck????
The Horror.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 15, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
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I agree with Guy, That ledge looks real dusty pyro!
Anybody want to meet me out at the point this evening. i' m in town for a couple days
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
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MB.... hi, I am sure 100's are at the point right now.... you need to go demonstrate the harder problems to them.
Getting off to a wedding right now or I would join ya.
What are ya doing on Sunday?
and some heavy duty stuff has gone down on that ledge. Pyro tell the stories, on-line please please.....then you can donate the ledge, complete with its seller history, to a worthy cause.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Oct 15, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
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"Do you know what its like to loose a trophy!?!?!"
hAHAHAHAKAAAKAkakaaa
Throw it in the ocean and maybe it will become a paddle board.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 15, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
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guy, sunday lets climb
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
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hey guyman you need to get ur own ledge.
NA_kid is that Boulderdash owner up on mescalito?
Mbrown could you motivate those new recruits they just want to drink beer and talk.
that black fish ledge thing is dusty! but the surfboard aint!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Oct 17, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Oct 18, 2011 - 11:56am PT
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Dingus, it debuted at my 60th birthday party at the end of July with a showing in my backyard. It is very good. I think it is being shopped around a bit and they hope to release it with sponsorship or something.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Oct 18, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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Dingus,
The movie is so close to being finished I can almost taste it! In fact, spent all last weekend doing final edits and changes. This weekend we will be recording the voice over with an actor and then, after that, all we need is final music!!
We will be doing some screenings here in SoCal throughout November and December and hopefully have DVD's ready to sell by Christmas or January 2012 at the latest.
I will be sure to let the Taco know when/where they can see it and when it's for sale. I really appreciate the intrest and the nice comments about The Bachar-Yerian.
I almost can't believe it, but after 3+ years this thing is almost finished!!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 19, 2011 - 05:57pm PT
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sfa
Boulder climber
Los Angeles CA
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Oct 20, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
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See you later today Stoney! Even being a little injured I still can't stay away!
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Happy Boulders
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Oct 20, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
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Cole, do you have where you are going to show the film?
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 20, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
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cole, you promised me a copy 2 months ago....
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 20, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
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Mr. Brown is that a statement of apperception or a complaint.
Are you in town?
If so -- HAVE HEADLAMP - WILL TRAVEL -- tonight at the point.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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every time Mbrown post i give him a call.
yestarday i gave him a call and he said "i have to get off the phone cuzz i'm gonna eat a pizza"! lol!
what happen to the BBQ?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Oct 21, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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NEWS FLASH!!!!!
WIENIE ROAST at Stoney next Thursday!!!
Be there or ...
be left out.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 21, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 24, 2011 - 04:42pm PT
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Wasps on the attack at Stoney. I don't know why but wasps are out & nasty. Last week several people were attacked on the south east hillside above turlock & cap rock. Yesterday Paige & I walked into a nest about 75 feet above spiral traverse. They attacked like crazy I'm still finding new places that I was stung. For a few moments Paige look like an atom with electrons buzzing all around her.
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thinkmck
Trad climber
West Hills CA
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Oct 24, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
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Last Tuesday Session at Stoney
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 25, 2011 - 10:43am PT
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V7? Expansion Chamber?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 25, 2011 - 02:25pm PT
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If it doesn't rain anymore things should dry out by this afternoon. I'm still itching from all the wasp stings on Sunday. At first I thought I had been stung 5 maybe 6 times, but I think it's more like 15+.
Matty that was a 10c maybe d years ago.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 25, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
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Where were the wasps?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Oct 25, 2011 - 04:29pm PT
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Matty, yellow jackets are in a few places and they are nesting on the ground. Mark and Page should have been aware they were above Spiral as two women got stung up pretty badly there two weeks ago and Mark was there.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 26, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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G_Gnome is right. The funny part is as we are walking into this nest I'm saying look at all the beanies & shirts who would leave all this here. As I finished talking & started getting stung I could picture people running & ripping their clothes off in desperation.
Good afternoon at Stoney yesterday.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2011 - 11:58am PT
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don't forget about the dog that died because of bee's back at potholes.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Oct 27, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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Barbeque at Boulder 1 this evening! Bring some beer and join the fun.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 27, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Barbie Q will be showing up at stoney tonight.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Oct 27, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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BBQ at the Point tonight!!!! Should be a lot of fun! Also gonna bring a lighting set up so that we can comfortably boulder and hang out after dark (the battery is charged this time I promise). Feel free to bring hot dogs or chips or something, beer is always good too.
Hope to see you all out there, I should be arriving around 3 or 4. Probably start the BBQ up around 5:30 at boulder 1. Bring headlamps too!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2011 - 12:04am PT
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Just haven't paid enough attention to Stoney but tonight I did.
I was cruzing in right when the dog's were on the BBQ.
Frumy was Cook for tonight. give him a hand he done good!
Robert crimp'n and slapn the corner of Boulder one!
happy climbing.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Oct 28, 2011 - 02:10am PT
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Good seeing you today Ryan! Looking forward to training some endurance with you soon...
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Oct 29, 2011 - 01:27am PT
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Adopt-a-Crag tomorrow at 8am!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 29, 2011 - 01:42am PT
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See you tomorrow at the clean up.
I hope to be chicken pickin up broken glass and all those cigarette butts some guy has been throwing down all year in front of Three Pigs.
EDIT NEXT MORNING: I just picked up thousands of pieces of glass shards from the Mommy's Boys bouldering area. Enjoy it while it lasts.
Also picked up all the broken glass from under Sculpture's Crack wall.
Climbers need to mind their tape and cigarette waste. I picked up plenty in a very small area.
Also the foil corners off the food bar wrappers.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 31, 2011 - 11:39am PT
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Spider nice work at stoney it really looks nice & hot tuna needed a lot of work
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Oct 31, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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The clean up was pretty good.
If you smoke cigs please punch yourself in the face for me.
I dragged an arm chair out from near the top of Motzarts.
Heres the end result from the clean up!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
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good to Cya climbing Roger! is he the only one "amped" for top-rope tuesday's?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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Largo thanks for the kool picture tell BOB thank you!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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be advised rain will soak the sandstone.
please let the rock dry off before you climb out there!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Nov 10, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
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What's the word Stoney dudes? Will the rock ever dry?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Nov 10, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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It's dry now...but maybe not tomorrow.
You can always go to the Sculpters Traverse. I have climbed there in full on rain, and managed to get a workout. As long as it hasn't rained super hard, it'll be dry because of the overhanging wall. And then move over to Hot Tuna for more rainy day fun!
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Ghosty
Social climber
LA, Cali
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Nov 10, 2011 - 11:32pm PT
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Finally made an account! got bored of lurking haha
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 11, 2011 - 10:09am PT
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It was pretty nice last nite.... not to cold and it was high and dry....
Time to go buy a 10,0000 lumin headlamp.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 11, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
Cali
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Nov 14, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
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I've been making it out to Stoney as much as I possibly can lately with the rain limiting the days to climb. I'm going to check it out today with Paige to see how the rock is drying. Maybe I'll see some of you there?!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 14, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
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It was a little damp this morning, but should be dry enough by noon.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 16, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
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If you take you dogs to Stoney please check them for TICKS. After a year of no Ticks I found 3 on Molly & 1 on Sol this Morning. All were Deer Ticks that carry Lime disease.
This is the first time I have found Deer ticks in L.A.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Nov 17, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
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Don't blow Frumys warning off. If you are an toothless old gummer, and are use to looking for ticks, these are smaller than that and will F** you up. Small! size of a pencil lead small. Put on the glasses and look carefully. Wear light colored clothes, they show up better.
Every state has it now.
http://module.lymediseaseassociation.net/Maps/
Symptoms
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002296/
Conspiracy? Google "Jesse Ventura" and or "Plum island". Sick stuff. I'm guessing it's most likely true. Damn sad.
"Modern Lyme history begins in 1975 when a mother in the town of Old Lyme, Connecticut reported the outbreak of a strange, multi-system disease. The town lies directly opposite the Plum Island biowarfare research lab where, according to former Justice official John Loftus, Nazi scientists brought to the US after WW2 may have test-dropped “poison ticks”. [vii] It should be noted that Loftus’ reputation for gathering accurate, hard-hitting information is strong – strong enough to bring down in disgrace the former Chancellor of Austria and Secretary-General of the UN Kurt Waldheim, after the latter’s wartime SS record was revealed.
While it’s not yet known if Plum Island experimented on Lyme-causing borrelia, the lab’s directors openly admitted to Michael Carroll, author of a recently-published book which is endorsed by two former State Governors, that they kept “tick colonies”. The “hard tick” Amblyomma americanum, a known carrier of Borrelia burgdorferi, was one of the subjects of the Island’s experiments. [viii]This tick is not the one most commonly associated with transmitting Borrelia burgdorferi, but it is implicated in harbouring Borrelia lonestari, believed to be the cause of a “Lyme-like illness” in the American south. [ix]
Carroll’s book reveals a shocking disregard for safety, in this lab handling some of the most dangerous germs on earth. Eyewitnesses described how infected animals were kept in open-air pens. Birds swooping down into the pens could have picked up and spread infected ticks worldwide. ......"
The first known case of Lyme disease (arguably) in a human was most likely discovered across the bay from the Armys Plum Island installation, the town of Lyme saw a lot of the first cases and it has now spread to all 50 states. Thanks f*#kers.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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Frumy i went to iceberg the other day. found 6 ticks crwling up my leg!
Couch-man thank's!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 18, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
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Man I'm itching just thinking about the berg. Poison Oak - ticks.
Double check everything It's tick season. Deer ticks are not to be thought of lightly. Learn what they look like.
Thanks Couchmaster.
Climb-on.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nov 18, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
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My dog got a tick in her at Texas Canyon like 6 months ago. I also woke up that morning with one crawling on me but luckily it didn't dig in.
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spenchur
climber
oak park
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Nov 18, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
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Glad to see the clean up was so successful. wish i could have been there to help out. now that im in arizona most of the year, i find myself missing stoney point more than anything. anybody planning on going out thanksgiving day? ill be in town and hoping the rock is dry so i can do some laps.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Nov 21, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
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If it's dry, I'll most likely be there thursday morning.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 23, 2011 - 10:30am PT
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The Boss man says we can split at 3pm today..... so its a Stoney Point day.
Its nice and dry and it might just be warmish.
Hope to see some of you all out there.
Happy Thanksgiving to all.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 30, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
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^Nice chalk bags.^ When you are a mountian dog you have to check everybody's knots even climbing masters.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Nov 30, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
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Jeesus...that old guy look like he's about to have a seizure.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 30, 2011 - 04:05pm PT
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Cept that he is about to walk a route you were NEVER good enough to even thrutch your way up! Besides, you calling someone old is pretty crazy, aren't you like 65 or something yourself?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 30, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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Another "old man" rockin the stoney point beerlay!
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Nov 30, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
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Jan...Isn't he about to get on skurf (or however you spell it)? Sorry to disappoint, but it's one of the few things I did do out on that pile of sand of yours. By the way, the extra weight looks good on you. Skinny gnomes just look scary.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 30, 2011 - 09:23pm PT
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Ha ha!!! I miss you too Bob.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Nov 30, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
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I hope you checked his knot Jan, would hate to lose the old grandpa to a senior moment. I know I want people to check my knot and I'm still a kid.
Bob does not look 65? Grecian formula keeps him looking young and desirable.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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i was at stoney on tuesday and some duude in his hot rod was giving everybody the big finger!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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looks like i found frumy's wasp nest today--heading uphill and to the right from lieback flake area--maybe 40-50 yards, and i'm in deep grass and they're all over me. 8-9 stings and man, it's dangerous running downhill.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Pyro that was me. F u all!! bitches
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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my stings come to an even dozen and they itch like hell.
this wasp nest is a REAL HAZARD. i'm thinking of posting a notice on the bulletin board there.
yes, i would tend to agree they're wasps, not africanized bees--they had that yellow jacket look, out of the corner of my eye--which is closing up today. i found them in deep grass--apparently ground-nesting.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2011 - 11:53am PT
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Just what ever you do Tony B don't do what those Hollywood kook's did to the big bee's nest in the back. they killed em for their damn commercials.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Tony I feel for you, hang in there it take a couple of days for the itching to go away & about 5 to really feel ok.
I'm pull for you. Best to you.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I ran the lawn mower over a ground nest in my backyard as a wee lad. Those f*#kers was not happy. took me a bit to figure out was happenin. I thought the mower was kicking up stones or may-bee I ran over a stick. Many stings on my legs had me running with my tail between my legs inside to mommy, crying all the way. I took some meds and spent the next few hours almost passing out. Oh yeah, I was allergic to bee's then, although that seems to have changed as I grew up.
We also had some old wine barrels on our front porch growing up. A cork was missing on one and every summer honey bee's would move in. They would form crazy swarms on the front, and there would be a cloud of bees flying to and from the near by crab-apple trees. As boys often do my friends and I would f*#k with that nest to no end. Not something I'm proud of, but hey that's what growing up is about. We used to have one person stick the hose in, while another turned it on, then we would both sprint half a block away imagining a killer swarm was about to engulf us. Other times we would like a smoke bomb and try to chuck it in the hole. Looking back I'm amazed at the staying power of those bees. They got angry, but nothing we did ever drove them off, guess there was too many cracks in that old barrel to hold any water. Finally I think my parents sealed up the hole, or got rid of the barrel. Looking back it sure was neat to have them around.
Matt
P.S. Don't be dumb and throw rocks at the bee's like Largo!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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catching chipmunks was my youthful indiscretion--stood guard around their entrance holes with cages and put the garden hose in another hole. i caught one alright, and he fanged me squarely between the thumb and forefinger. our small town doc had to decide whether rabies shots were in order. we decided no, and fortunately nothing transpired.
meanwhile, trying to develop some empathy here for pyro's insect friends ...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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I hear where Pyro is coming from -- the Bee's on the back wall have been there for decades & have taken many a beating they didn't deserve ---- BUT THOSE FRICKEN WASPS are another thing. Those dudes have been given out wiping after wiping all summer & fall.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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i'm wondering now whether the two might be related--a longtime presence of bees removed and now these gangster wasps taking over. "there goes the neighborhood."
i talked to a fella at a party last night who works for parks & rec. stony is one of many properties the city likes to pretend it doesn't own. it doesn't surprise me that the hollywood crowd is moving in. they don't have to pay fees, which they'd ordinarily do at other venues, and it seems now they can commit environmental outrages for their short-term convenience. when i was there the other day, there was a whole crew moving in to do some sort of advertising shoot. one guy was carrying a whole wardrobe--a regular closet-pole of outfits for the bimb. the makeup artist had a huge cosmetics kit. "there goes the neighborhood."
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
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Hollywood is only allowed to film porn at stoney!.... lol.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Tony the city does not own Stoney Point -- & the hollywood crowd isn't moving in. More than 1000 movies have been shot in the area starting around 1925.
& the worst damage to stoney come in the early 1990's when big name climbers were paid to tell a film co. that it was ok to paint the boulders at Stoney Point.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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the city does own stony, frumy. it likes to pretend it doesn't, but it does. as i understand, however, it IS collecting fees from the hollywood crowd. it just doesn't care if these people destroy beehives.
btw, i see someone was recently compelled to paint whiskers and so forth on the lion's head boulder. somehow, it just doesn't come across as art.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Actually It's a land grant with string.
The Porter Ranch Co. does not pay taxes on it & the city of L. A. can not touch it. The Porter Ranch Co. has the right to develop the property if the city tries to sell or develop the property.
Griffith Park is under the same type of land grant.
In the early 1980's under Mayor Bradley started to charge $1.00 to enter the park. The Griffith family took the city to court & Mayor Bradley had to give all the money collected to charity & remove the toll houses or lose the park.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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yea, i remember that park fee business. i was working on the burbank paper at the time, and i made up a little cartoon--more money-making ideas for griffith park. a casino with "ranger roulette". a striptease at the observatory. viva las vegas.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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welcome to fee-based-revenue infrastructure!
ps, nuke the wasps
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2011 - 01:13am PT
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Damn it was cold today and super WINDY!
roger is on the amphitheater traverse.
power glide traverse.
nite shot!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 11, 2011 - 07:33pm PT
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Nice day at Stoney
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Dec 20, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
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The bench at Boulder One has been smashed to pieces by someone dropping a big rock on it. So if anyone wants to do a community service, here's your opportunity!
It's a easy fix, and if nobody else gets to it first, I'll fix it. This is the bench that was Bob Kamp's idea, and he funded the installation of it, and the one at Turlock.
The posts are still intact, so it just needs a new 2x8x8 stud bolted on.
What is need:
1ea. 2x8x8 stud
4ea. 5/16" Carriage bolts about 3" long.
Pencil to trace holes
Drill for bolt holes
wrench
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Dec 20, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
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depressing--and just in time for the holidays.
p.s. it'll need a coat of outdoor paint too--paint it before you install it. if you want to spend a little money, try to get a chunk of ipé ironwood--that'll last forever without any paint. if i were still installing decks i could get one for scrap. maybe someone else can.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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that suck's!
lots of ass has sat on that wooded-seat at boulder one.
probably some youth.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Dec 22, 2011 - 01:00am PT
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Nate don't need no stinkin' benches !
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:01am PT
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i think this is kinda serious, and i don't think pud's post is very appropriate.
either someone has serious issues with a little outdoor furniture or they have serious issues with climbing. in either case, if someone fixes this bench, will it be smashed up again next week?
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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Long before you guys 'owned' Stoney or the bench existed, it was a place for everyone to enjoy, not just 'climbers'.
Do some pull ups then sit in the dirt, it's good for you.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 10:55am PT
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sounds like pud's got some issues of his own.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:44am PT
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stoney
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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Tony don't get upset. have you seen what a ice rink goes through?
sometimes people like to take it out on something. in this case they took it out on stoney.
Pud ur right before the wood chair it was a cut of carpet or the a = crash pad to sit on.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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Pud that was a really weird & uninformed statement. Stoney Point is enjoyed today by non climbers more than it has ever been.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Dec 22, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
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In my opinion, this was most likely some teenage randomness. I remember plenty of times when breaking things sounded like a great idea.
Seems simple enough to repair it. If it get's smashed again we have an interesting mystery to solve.
Speaking of problems, this wind should dry out the rock just in time for some Yuletide sendage.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Dec 22, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
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I think you nailed it Sam E.
Stoney is what it is. The bench wasn't there bitd. Not sure how it gained so much need these days.
I'm on hiatus 'til 1/9. Want to hit SP tomorrow?
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Dec 22, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
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clients all day tomorrow. weatherman says too windy anyway. Sat and Sun I'm there.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
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Pud the benches are about Bob Kamps & he is BITD. Me I sit on the ground I don't even own a crash pad. But if Bob wanted benches I won't argue.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Dec 22, 2011 - 04:58pm PT
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The two benches were installed at least 15 years ago. It was a bunch of peoples idea, and Bob offered to pay for some materials. I think it was Mike H.(SCMA) who did the work, not sure though.
Never heard anyone complain about them, I mean it is a city park 100 feet from the road. There's a bunch of climbers behind the building of a ranger station (fire lookout) on top of one of California's most spectacular rock formations, so a park bench at a park is a pretty silly thing to worry about imo. Not to mention, the metal posts are still perfectly intact, and would be a major undertaking to remove, yet it will take ten mintues to repair the top.
Here's the bench
Credit:Yafer
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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me and emma wish all of the stoney pointer's a Happy Holiday!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 26, 2011 - 08:26pm PT
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What a nice day at Stoney today.
OH THANK YOU RINCON, JOB WELL DONE.
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thinkmck
Trad climber
West Hills CA
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Dec 28, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
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hey all stoney pointers Joshua Tree this weekend for new years! Got our spot at Hidden Valley Hopefully we see everyone out there!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2011 - 11:54am PT
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count me out! sorry i wont be able to make the new year at Jtree. too much factory work. happy new year! be safe and have fun.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Dec 29, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
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JT National Park is closed for routine maintenance and will re-open the second week in January.
Thank you for your interest.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 29, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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Pyro ------8-9-10 you're out.
Pud I've been trying to tell them that , but they don't listen.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Dec 29, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Campsites already reserved. Let the drinking begin!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 29, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
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Hope you guys and gals have fun. I'll be up at the Kern where there's open camping, no lines at the routes, no rangers and fantastic granite. And it will be warmer than Josh too.
Watch yer P's & Q's out in Josh. New Years is an LEO feeding frenzy there. There's a bail bondsman east of Joshua Tree though if you blow it.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2011 - 05:20pm PT
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JT National Park is closed for routine maintenance and will re-open the second week in January.
Thank you for your interest.
PUD will you go out to stoney and use ur trash picker upper!
LOL! u effing dork!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 31, 2011 - 07:33pm PT
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A beautiful day at the Point.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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First Stoney Point Thursday went down like this.
5.7
5.9
Hoof and Mouth downclimb Slime
Yabo Roof
The Crack
Apesma Left
Real Crystal Ball Mantle
The Johnson Problem
Darkside of the Moon
Johnson's Arete
Aftershock
Say Goodnight
Boot flake Direct
It's good to be home.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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It was nice out there this evening!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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thinkmck
Trad climber
West Hills CA
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Damnnnnn dope pad!! good job brandon!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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just got back from the Point and it was perfect!
it's the lunch time crowd
Frumy completed the spiral traverse!
good job frumy!
Brandon work'n Viscous.
perfect night out on the town!
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Jan 12, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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Climbing at Stoney has been pretty awesome since the holidays. It's nice to see familiar faces again!
So where is everyone climbing this weekend?
And btw - I can't help but wonder what Big Ern is thinking in that photo, Mark! haha
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Jan 12, 2012 - 04:07am PT
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 12, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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spellit rite, bra: BAIT-OVEN
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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hey yafer hope to cya at the Point someday!
maybe the new recruits can get a "2000 point day"..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 14, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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had a good day at stoney.
accross the street from stoney
the crack is soo so good.
after bouldering accross the street i went and set upat the back wall.
peace!
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curlyQ
Gym climber
mordor on weekends. and yo mammas bedroom on weekd
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Jan 29, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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serously?! this thread got me stoked on going to stoney point. i drove 4 hours for complete sh*t. F*&k stoney point. too many old people, too much glass, and too much grafitti. STONEY POINT SUCKS!!!!!!!!!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 29, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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I, on the other hand, had an awesome day.
Lot's of friendly familiar faces.
Sticky rock, warm sun, and a cool breeze.
The transitory moment, when movement becomes melody.
The symphony of Stoney Point.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jan 30, 2012 - 12:58am PT
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Wonderfully said Sam! Absolutely gorgeous day, good seeing you.
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dmons
climber
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Jan 30, 2012 - 01:05am PT
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whats an old people?
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Brian
climber
California
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Jan 30, 2012 - 01:11am PT
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pyro,
Where is that crack "across the street"? Thanks.
Brian
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
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Night time leading at Stoney.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Jan 30, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
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What a great day to climb at Stoney yesterday! The weather was beautiful.
It's going to be a little cool tomorrow but seems like a prime Tuesday to climb.
It's my birthday tomorrow so we're going to boulder it up & hit Los Toros afterward for dinner to celebrate. All of you young and old people ;) are welcome to join! Hope to see you all at the rocks.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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serously?! this thread got me stoked on going to stoney point. i drove 4 hours for complete sh*t. F*&k stoney point. too many old people, too much glass, and too much grafitti. STONEY POINT SUCKS!!!!!!!!!
troll
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Jan 31, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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There are a bunch of us older people at Stoney. Maybe he didn't like getting his a$$ kicked on all the problems by us old people.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
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hey brian the Crack is located near the church and the condos.
old but we still used em.
this place is kinda nice but it's still better to be at the Point.
although it would be nice to walk out of the yard to climb a rock.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 31, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
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UGLY batch of condos being built right now at the intersection of topanga and 118. they sure know how to ruin the view for everyone so's a few can have a view for themselves.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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[photoid=235777]Bunch of old people? One in four is just about right.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Old friends, new friends.
Legends and beginners.
Crushing successes and diminishing failures.
A Groundhog day afternoon.
What if there is no tomorrow? There wasn't one today...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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This gal is heading to J-Tree for the first time ever this weekend. Do any of you plan to be there?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Have a blast. Climb-on
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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Temps were perfect today at Stoney Point.
climb on.
Nude photo shoot in progress!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 10, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
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Anybody know if they actually got any rain out there today? I threw the shoes in the car to try to get a quick session this morning but it started drizzling in Santa Monica so I bailed, though the drizzle stopped pretty quickly. Nice and sunny now, so I was hoping Chatsworth stayed dry and I could try again tomorrow. Anyone...?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Feb 13, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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The ground got wet this morning but that is about all you could say and the sun is out now. Stoney will definitely be climbable on Tuesday. I would give it a rest today.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
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Thanks!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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Brrr what a cold day at Stoney.
had to set up for top-rope tuesday!
side shot of the back wall.
Sam climbing Walk the Plank while Dave works Vicious.
took a nite shot of climbers on the old-aid line!
very KOOl!
watch for snakes!
cheers!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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I had a nice Valentines Day at Stoney last night. And those are rad pics of us, thanks for posting those Pyro!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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very kool pic's Tfish. is that old-aid line holding up?
glad u had a great valentines day!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Feb 15, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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Everything is bomber on it (minus the hook nail thing, but it works). You did a good job rebolting it.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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Top_rope tuesday!
was so fun!
rock temps were perfect.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Feb 22, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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top rope revival
dusting holds and sticking moves
bees on a warm breeze
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 26, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Perfect weather today if the rain holds off. I'll be out there this afternoon with my son showing him the ropes.
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cbburton
climber
Burbank, CA
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Feb 28, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
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does anyone know if it rained at Stoney yesterday?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Feb 28, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
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It is definitely climbable today.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 29, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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Just another day at the Point.
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
The Eastside.... UUUUHHHHHHH!
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Frumy, explain those photos
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Porn stars are always being filmed around or at Stoney. I think he killed himself because they told him to use a condom.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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These pictures were taken a few days ago just above & to the right of Turlock.I figure they are making a film about the suicide - murder.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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It did not take place at Stoney, but not that far.
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Spencer Josif
Boulder climber
Simi Valley, CA
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As always, good climbs and good vibes at Stoney!
just joined the site, so heres a few pics from the past several months
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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spencer Jo! welcome to the stoney thread.
please post anything u want.
Stoney Point thread will be the leader of all threads!
come join us for top-rope tuesday and BBQ thursday's
time is going to change so i better se the droid!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 12, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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The future
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 13, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Moe Beta
Sport climber
northridge, ca
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Mar 14, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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this thread is effing awesome! great pics! i'll be out at there tomorrow (thurs) see you all there!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
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it sure is getting a soaking!
please respect the nature of the rock!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 18, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Joe Ramos
Boulder climber
CA
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Mar 20, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
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Hey everybody! First time to the forums but I’ve met many of you out at Stoney over the past year I’ve been climbing there. I’m currently in the pre-production phase of a short film I’m working on titled “The Secrets of Stoney.” What I find unique to the point are the climbs that aren’t listed in the guidebooks; the infinite number of eliminates and adds ons. Take kamps mantel for example or the 10 thousand different variations of no pigs ranging from v0 to v6. I’d also like to visit some areas and classic climbs that receive less traffic than the main boulders such as the grandma’s boy area. It will be shot in the raw bouldering flick format integrated with interviews with the climbers.
I’m looking for a group of climbers who are willing to share their stories or climb in the film. Also if anyone is interested in video production and would like to help crew I’m more than happy to get you on board. I planning on shooting during the next couple of weeks and am currently creating an email list. If you’re interested shoot me your email at joeramosmail@yahoo.com.
Some of my recent work can be viewed here-
http://vimeo.com/joeramos/videos
Thanks,
Joe
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
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Mike Waugh adding a bolt to vicious
Mike Waugh adding a bolt to the back Area's Vicious Top-rope.
Blow tube!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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Yeah- I've pretty much started ignoring it too. (at Stoney)A lot of it seems to just fade on it's own. Half the time you take the time to remove it and they just paint over the same spot again. I hate f*#king taggers. Cement shoes and drop them in the ocean I say.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 25, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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The dynamic duo...Johnson climbing with Anderson "spotting"
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Mar 25, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Waugh is not blowing. He sucks!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Mar 27, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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Just for reference thought I'd link the "Three on a Rope" (1938) film from the other thread. Classic old Tahquitz footage and the last scene of the film was filmed at Stoney.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvJK5IuS5Z4
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 28, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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JTM --- Excellent, too funny. They seem to bounce back & forth from Stoney Point to Idyllwild & back again.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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check out what i found at an old garage sale over the weekend!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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Should stoney be good to go this evening? I know it's been foggy and damp the past few mornings by my house, but is it dry out there? I know there will be people out there, but I just don't want to be that guy.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Russ ur the man!
Tfish sure was a soaking over the weekend, but ur good to go!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 30, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
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Bobcat sighting at Stoney last night.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Ahh no way, how cool! Where'd you see the cat?
So I take it from the last post that Stoney is good to go for tomorrow? I can't wait!...haven't had a Tuesday off from work since Thanksgiving.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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The sighting was behind boulder One next to the big Oak.
I had been seeing rabbits there all day.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Is everyone afraid of the dark? Stoney was so packed yesterday and the second the sun goes down everyone leaves. It was a full moon too, you didn't even need a headlamp.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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are you sure they left, fish? if you look closely at the canyons, you can usually see blue smoke rising.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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My car was the last one parked there so I guess I'm just assuming because there are other places to park if you want to stay past 10. But I'm pretty sure no one else was there.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Where were you, Tfish??? Was at B1 till very dark with Jeff, Hero, Nicole and Eric....
The moon was bright, we made good use of it.
And Tony.... it's sweet smoke and it rises everywhere around Stoney.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nabisco Canyon for most of the evening. We had the whole spot to ourselves. And then boulder #1 area from 9:00 til about 10:30.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2012 - 05:22pm PT
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wow! Tfish ur a climbing junky!
Night climbing at Stoney is something fun to do.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Tfish on night patrol.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2012 - 12:20am PT
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Nice temps today!
climbers on Pink drips.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Apr 11, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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a bobcat crossed my path once on the rocky peak trail.
i was up at rocky peak yesterday and possibly saw a pair of golden eagles. i saw a golden about 10 years ago right next to the 118 at the pass, big bird with little white patches on the underside of the wings, which i think is positive identification. these birds yesterday were up high, but they had the patches. they had a different soaring habit than you see in buteos, and the raven that was pestering them seemed to be keeping its distance.
anyone else seen goldens in that neighborhood?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 13, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
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Don't even think of bouldering there this weekend.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Apr 13, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
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Tony, there are goldens everywhere. I see them at Malibu all the time too.
I sail and you will see them flying out to Santa Cruz Island from Ventura to go hunt foxes. They stocked Bald Eagles out there to try to keep the Goldens away.
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PurplePineapple
climber
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Apr 14, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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Stoney Point Community,
I wanted to post a few questions to the community and see what the response would be. There are a number of climbs on the West Walls that have potential and are in need of some TLC. More specifically the Suburbia & Boy Scout Wall Area.
I would like to do the following with a high level of craftsmanship:
1. Hire Beekeepers to relocate the existing beehives to an area of less risk to climbers and children. We have been assured that this can be done without doing irreversible damage to the hive.
2. Clean many of the easy to moderate climbs. This would include glueing critical loose holds.
3. Add quality bolt anchors.
I understand that the difference in opinions may be huge. I will use the prevailing opinions as a bases to go forward. Please be constructive with your feedback.
Cheers,
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 14, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
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Short answer: NO
1. Bee's, You gonna pay? Who's home is it?
2. It's sandstone. Gluing it back together is futile.
3. Quality anchors have always been welcome after the irritation wears off. Others tend to get chopped or pulled.
Boy Scout Wall needs no bolts. Plenty of natural pro. Plus it's so easy it's not worth the hardware. I'm the only one who ever climbed there with my kids and their friends. A couple of Scout outings.
I'm sure Chris (SOWR) would say the same about Suburbia Wall.
I appreciate you loving and wanting to contribute to Stoney. Get a bucket, pick your favorite area, and spend the afternoon with your thumb and forefinger picking up every single piece of glass. Very satisfying. I did it at Mommy's Boys last fall.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 14, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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Spider thank you.
Purplepinnapple - If I find you with clue or in anyway defacing anything at Stoney Point I will do what ever it takes to make your life miserable ---- starting with a call to the police.
Stoney Point is a city Monument it is protected by state & federal laws.
Only a complete self centered F-_-head would change Stoney.
There is a long history of morons chipping & clueing & getting there a_s kick for doing stupid things like that.
There have been people climbing at Stoney for over 80 years.
Clueing & cleaning routes is for weak minded morons who steal from the future & destroy the past.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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hey Purple send me an email with ur name and number. i'll call you. my buddy mike and a few others were going to just clean up (old roots) on that area.
rm
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 14, 2012 - 10:42pm PT
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Pyro you know better.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 14, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
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Just a typical California girl at the beach.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 17, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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I saw this in the paper today. Stupid reporter "Remote Stoney Point Area" next they will be calling it backcountry or alpine.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Apr 17, 2012 - 05:58pm PT
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geez, frumy--take a mellow lesson from yer dogs. if ya wanna tool, tool graffiti artists who don't have any real talent.
santa susanna sandstone is allergic to good bolts. it chews them up and spits them out. only the old, rusty quarter-inchers seem to stick.
They stocked Bald Eagles out there to try to keep the Goldens away.
not the way i heard that, gnome. goldens quickly do away with balds. they were trying to return the fish-eating balds to their island habitat, but there warn't enough room in that town for two eagles.
dontcha love that news copy? "the remote stoney point area". that's near porter ranch, in case you need orientation, and within 10 minutes of several major shopping centers. any sasquatch sightings last week?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Apr 17, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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Hmmm Tony, wonder what the real story is/was with the eagles.
Back to PurplePeopleEater; don't place any bolts, don't glue any holds (see, unlike Frumy I can spell), but cleaning up is always welcome. I can't think of any bolts that need replacing either. If you want to be helpful, fill some old bolt holes in nicely so that the place doesn't look such a mess at the tops of some of the walls. Or very lightly spray over existing grafitti with a pleasing variety of light tans to match the surrounding rock.
If you want to make friends, show up with a 6-pack on Tuesday or Thursday and introduce yourself. We really are a bunch of nice people - even Frumy.
Jan
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Apr 17, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
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i dunno, fattrad--it's dangerous in that remote stoney point area. the place has a reputation. i'll bet you couldn't get enough backup.
my own opinion is not to spray more paint to cover up graffiti. paint is paint and it accumulates and it doesn't take long before you're trying to climb on paint instead of rock.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 17, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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@ Purple-
Stoney Point Community,
I wanted to post a few questions to the community and see what the response would be. There are a number of climbs on the West Walls that have potential and are in need of some TLC. More specifically the Suburbia & Boy Scout Wall Area.
I would like to do the following with a high level of craftsmanship:
1. Hire Beekeepers to relocate the existing beehives to an area of less risk to climbers and children. We have been assured that this can be done without doing irreversible damage to the hive.
2. Clean many of the easy to moderate climbs. This would include glueing critical loose holds.
3. Add quality bolt anchors.
I understand that the difference in opinions may be huge. I will use the prevailing opinions as a bases to go forward. Please be constructive with your feedback.
1. Hire Beekeepers this gets an unequivocal NO from me!!! Please don't mess with the hives. They have been there forever, and are currently not polluted with Africanized DNA = not really aggressive. The routes they are usually located on are kinda crappy climbs so why bother disrupting them? They are also pollinating a large # of plants including some highly endangered ones that only grow in that area. There are plenty of places to take your kids there that are nowhere near a hive.
2. Clean many of the easy to moderate climbs: "cleaning" is sort of subjective. Brush some dirt and loose stuff off?... Knock yourself out. Gluing ?... I wouldn't bother. Paint over graffiti with housepaint... I will personally hunt you down and you will have more than a bee sting to worry about.
What routes in particular do you think need work?
3. Add quality bolt anchors: Won't work. Every time someone tries to add a new anchor it gets chopped (even off stuff that is extremely difficult to impossible to set up a TR) so save your bolts. Just bring your long ass webbing and deal like the rest of us.
Edit to add: I agree.. The most constructive thing you can do there is to pick up trash.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 18, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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The Bald Eagles were brought to the Channel Island exclusively to protect the foxes from Red
Tailed Hawks & Golden Eagles. That was started in the late 1990's.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Apr 19, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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christian and his crystal ball! gotta love it.
happy 4:20!
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 20, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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I saw that disco ball hanging there a couple of weeks ago, and thought maybe it was supposed to scare away bees or something.
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I hadn't stood in aiders for 30+ years so I thought I'd check out the [formerly] manky bolt ladder on Jesus Wall. After a major modernisation in 2010, the mankiness appears to have vanished: there are no spinning or loose hangers. Yes, there are a couple of historic artifacts that you have to hang on, but they seem pretty solid. I never found anything to be overly reachy, but I'm 5'10" with maybe longer than average arms, so a shorter person's mileage may vary.
Historic Artifact #1: bolt stud, which is the second thing you hang on, off the ground (but it seemed solid).
Historic Artifact #2: plant hanger, which had maybe the longest reach to get to; seemed pretty solid.
View down Jesus Wall
OK anchors on bottom, for those who want to go it alone.
Excellent anchors on top.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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great pic's Dosxx. that old aid line is sure getting some attention.
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Cut my teeth on stoney grit from about 85-90. Met my best friend there, Peter Hayes and are still friends to this day. So much history,so many lies!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nice shot Kenygl.
Peter Hayes... now that is a blast from the past. I trust he is doing well, does he Taco????
That dude would run more laps on Maggies Farm than any person ever.
And that's no lie.
If you see him please tell him that Guy says hi.
And he needs to come visit, the stone awaits.
Anyway I came here to post a announcement:
HOTDOG BBQ The tradition continues this Thursday 5.10
at Boulder 1 .... The esteemed film maker: Cole Gibson is bringing out his BBQ and will spark it up around 6 at Boulder 1.
Bring: Dogs, Buns, chips or whatever you like to eat or drink or smoke....
roll on over and toss into the pile and help yourself.
PLEASE don't be shy, introduce yourself and be ready for some sandbagging, Stoney style.
thx
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mr. Gas ...... another time sure, but still connected to Stoney.
Do you still do Stoney?
When I walk down the hill from the hwy I feel connected to all the climbers who I climbed with, some have passed and some are still around.
There are some up and coming climbers out there now. Uber strong and motivated.
This is "ready for take off" a old Kevin Thaw problem just right of Yanos Arête.
I point out "old problems".... I mean point out, not demonstrate, long forgotten problems to
these kids. I am just amazed at how fast one will figure it out, chalk it up, and move on.
The old problems look just killer all chalked up and proud.
The Bob Kamps problems are the hardest for them to get, lots of technical sh#t with strength being low on the list..... Good footwork pays off.
Hope to see you at Stoney.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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That would be cool.
Tuesdays and Thursdays...after work.
Look for the silver-backs, that would be US.
On EZ stuff.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 11, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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Good day at Stoney
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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May 25, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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Did it rain out there last night or this morning?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 25, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Tfish.... yes, very lightly. The streets were wet but not running water. SP should be good to go sat/Sunday ... if we get some sun.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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May 26, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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I had no idea it rained! Unfortunately I cannot climb right now anyway =/. I was really looking forward to Church Dome this weekend! Hopefully I'll be back on the rock soon.
In the meantime, I need climbing models for a photoshoot. If anyone is interested in participating in a rock climbing photoshoot, please let me know via e-mail. I think you can e-mail through supertopo or find me on facebook! I don't have the exact date yet, but it will be sometime in June. Definitely on a Wednesday. I plan to shoot at Stoney Point and Malibu Creek. All participants will receive a free tee-shirt and chalk bag :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 13, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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Tons of fun last nite, pretty cool temps.
A person .... def not a climber... fell on the hike in and hit his head. Then he started rambling incoherently.
Dances w boulders .... was smart and got the boys from the fire dept down ASAP.
I think the dude was on bath salts or something.
I got some shots from the iPhone .... can't figure out how to post directly.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jun 21, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Some f*#k spray painted the sh#t out of boulder 1 right by 3 pigs.
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Jun 21, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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Hey Guyman. I actually saw Peter yesterday. I went over to his house and we are both stoked to get out to do some climbing together. We both live in Salt Lake. There are a LOT of people I remember from the past at Stoney in the late 80's. George Grove & his little pixie Debbie, Jerry a huge guy who climbed with style and grace for a fat man, Rasta Jay, Peter, Gargoyle, Gustavo Lesin, so many great people. We didn't have crash pads back then. The day I met Peter I was doing laps on boulder 1 and a guy was at the base asking me where was my rope and didn't I know I could get hurt bouldering so high without a spotter or a rope. Back then it was common practice to use a tope rope on stoney boulder problems. . He was walking on 2 canes and his feet were f*#ked up. Turns out it was Peter fresh off his deck fall from Point Magu. We became fast friends, sharing a sarcastic nature, and were both soon working at A-16 in West LA. I met a ton of people while working there, Largo, Chris Allport, Steve Edwards, Hans Florine as he was stsrtiong to compete and speed climb. Heady times
Climbing in Brazil
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Jun 21, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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Hey Guy since you knew Pete here is a little gem. Peter has a steel trap for a memory and can draw a topo from memory like no one I've ever met. Here is a topo he drew for me a few days after we met.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 21, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
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Kenygl...... say hi to Pete for me. So do you guys climb still?
I remember A-16 in WLA.... I worked on Cotner Ave across from the Beer and Wine House.
I know that place was popular with A-16 workers.
Long time ago.
It's Thursday and you know what that means?
Stoney Point.
Hope to see you and Pete again ....
late
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vintage8mm
Boulder climber
Simi Valley
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1st off what a cool read this thread has been!!!
Im an old school boulder that hung around Stoney/jtree and Idlewild
Mostly Stoney since it was just down the street.
I have about 70 rolls of super 8mm I shot back in those days.
I havent looked at them in at least 25 years, until the other day, of the 5 or 6 I put in the projector one was of bouldering. The rest were surfing and skiing. So if that ratio holds true I should have about 12 rolls of stoney. I took the one roll into a photo place and had them convert it to digital. Anyways I post it on youtube. The quality is poor at best, but
nostalgic just the same. I climbed there like 4 times a week for 5 years
(78 thru 83) So maybe some of my old climbing buds are on these forums.
Here is the link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaUDFil_rAA
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Fabulous video! Thanks for the effort taken in putting it together and sharing.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Vintage8mm -------- thanks that was great.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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That old film is priceless. Thanks for letting us see...
You really ought to get it all transferred, the old films will not last forever.
Once digital, make backups...
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Thanks for posting that video!
My routes in order:
1) A variation of "Three Pigs" ??? (Boulder1)
2) "The Flake" (Turlock Boulder)
3) "The Crack" (B1 Boulder)
4) "The Corner" (Turlock Boulder)
5) Some boulder at base of Beethoven's wall
My Buddy's 1st ever attempt on a route is in there as well
(I was impressed)
Good going for your first year climbing! A couple of those are pretty hard...like the Crack on B1 boulder, or The Corner on Turlock. Both are about 11b today.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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vintage,
Cool little video. I love the Simon and Garfunkle to get the appropriate feel for the era.
I think once you get to be a certain age, those old shaky 8mm films seem pure nostalgia, the kind of stuff dad shot in the backyard when we were kindergarden and thought we could fly because we put a towel around our neck like a cape.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Rox,
Glad you're back. Don't let them get to you. They are children trying to get to you, goating you to lose it to get removed again. Ignore them. You can do it. Don't feed the trolls.
Stay here on ST. I like you're presents here. I like you contributing. Don't get kicked off. Just ignore them.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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8mm
Thank you for sharing....
please get the rest of it posted. The surfing too.
Do you still climb??
Stoney Point is very much alive today, lots of motivated kids learning how to really climb.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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Effing Rad!
8mm just spiced up this thread with a 34 year old flick of stoners point. love how Turlock is turlock. those big homes weren't even built yet.
i love it when history is brought back to life.
p.s. G_gnome showed me an old stoney point post card which had been taken a while back hope he gets it up here on the Stoney thread!
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vintage8mm
Boulder climber
Simi Valley
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Thanks everyone for the great feedback on the video. Glad you enjoyed it.
@toadgas – We had to have crossed paths at some time out there. I remember going out there after work, hungry as hell and saying to myself “OK I’m just gonna do my 30 or so problems and get home and eat” Never seemed to work out that way, I’d spent another hour BSin with other climbers.
I didn’t think I’d ever say this aloud, but when I was watching the reels of super8, I’d say “wow look at Zeros beach or Leo Carrillo” I was laughing at the footage and old friends of the days. When the Stoney Point footage was on I welled up, I got teary eyed. I realized, at that moment, I don’t think I was ever more honest with myself than when I was exposed out on a rock wall. Do you get that? That’s why I just took the one reel in to be converted, I wanted to watch it again, but was too afraid to run that frail film through the projector again
@ Dos XX - Thanks Man. More to come
@ Frumy – Your welcome, Dog :) Frumy your post on May 11, I think I recognize someone. The guy in the blue zipper sweat shirt hat backwards with his arm around a girl. Is his name Jeff? I climbed many time with him.
@ Ksolem - Thanks and you’re welcome. Yes I intend to take the remainder into Hooper Camera (those guy are great and super helpful. Ive been going there for years …. plug plug )
@ toadgas - When someone asks “why do they call this Turlock boulder” show them my vid. LoL Remember the route “Pink Floyd” Had that pink paint all over the route
@ Fattrad – Doesn’t it? It doesn’t even have to be me on the route it just has to be the rock as recorded in my minds eye.
@ rincon – Thanks Buddy. I know it was my 1st year because I’m wearing EB’s Those shoes killed my feat. Europeans must have narrow feet or something ….. Buy American!! :p
@ Klimmer- Yeah Rox. Hang out! We got your back
@ guyman – Yeah I plan on it soon. Im just as curious and don’t feel like threading 70 reels of film thru a film gobbling projector. …. No I don’t climb any more. I set foot on Stoney for the 1st time since 83. I went there to find out the names of the routes I filmed. (never dawned on me to just look them up online )
I climbed a couple problems ….. It was fun, ….. but ….. Im not going to start again to climb 5.7/5.8 routes
@ boulderkitty – Thanks catgirl
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vintage8mm
Boulder climber
Simi Valley
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@Fat Dad – Thanks Buddy. “I am a Rock” 1st song to come to mind. When I paired them up it felt magical (I gotta toot my horn on that call) I’ll take requests on the next vid. Lol
Funny you should say that, I have family film of myself and my brothers with towel caps …… really
@ Pyro – Thanks for starting this thread, Buddy! Sounds like you’re the Man at Stoney. The new Bob Kamps :)
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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A new bolted TR anchor has been placed at the top of Pink Drips thanks to Reagan Chung.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Yes that is Jeff.
Stop by & boulder with us most Tuesdays & Thursdays.
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vintage8mm
Boulder climber
Simi Valley
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I ran a few more reels thru the projector
I have video of jeff (Late 70's) LOL
Idyllwild. If memory serves me correct
I believe the route is called "Sunday Surprise"?
Its f*#ked up footage but the basecamp shoot is clean
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BlueWing
Sport climber
Chatsworth, Ca
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Jul 27, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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Hey ... I'm new to your forum, but have been going to Stoney for many years.
I'd like to climb the S-Crack on the left side of the front wall and would like to ask about setting the anchor to toprope.
thoughts and comments?
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Grampa
Trad climber
OC in So Cal
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Jul 27, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
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vintage8mm,
Thanks, that movie really brings back memories of Stoney Point in the 70's, EB's on sandstone!
Al
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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Blue Wing, just do it. At Stoney you go up there and work things out.
Start by doing the S-Crack and repeat until you are in the territory you want.
If you have multiple ropes you could rig up a TR. Plenty of big anchors on top for the right side.
Lead that S-Crack if you're bold. The spicy 5.4 crux should protect with a #4 cam. I lead it with Hexes once in the 1980's.
The Main Chimney is a real fun lead. Do it during a cold spell in winter so the bees are not a problem. Unless you are just good with bees. Plenty of good cracks for natual pro. It's a fine lead. A little scary but solid moderate climb. Easier than it looks.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 28, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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^^^^ Spider is right on ^^^^
You are always welcome to come boulder with us on Tue. & Thurs.
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BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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Hey Frumy, Spider ...
I've been up there looking at it a few times. I've seen some anchor bolts that look kinda new, and some good places for natural anchors that I think will need some long slings to get the "master point" over the edge.
I'll get up there and just play around with it till it looks right I guess.
I wish I could come by tues or thurs but I work long hours mon-fri. I get to climb Sat mornings mostly.
Anyway, thanks ... I'll post again ... maybe w/ pix next time I get to Stoney
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 28, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Long slings are very handy at Stoney.
A 100ft length of 10mm static rope is a fantastic way to go. I have one that I use to set up multiple TRs at the same time on B2 or Mozart's.
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Jul 28, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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Just checking in on this thread. I found my copy of the Stoney Point guidebook today while cleaning up in my storage area. It's still got the A-16 sticker on it for $3.50. I think I bought it in '87. It was a nice find.
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Grampa
Trad climber
OC in So Cal
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Jul 28, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
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The "S" Crack, as is it is now known, was my very first climb ever. WHooooo Hoooo
I went to Stoney with Ken McNutt a few times and learned the basics from him.
Any other McNutt students out there?
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BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
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Jul 29, 2012 - 02:43am PT
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Hey ... I got over to Stoney this afternoon.
Went to check out the top of S-Crack again
There are 3 bolts. One on the wall 10' down from the top and right at where you sneak under the boulder at the top. The other two are to the right of that boulder putting the master point to the right of the climb and possibly making for some drag on the belay line. All bolts look solid. However, I've got ideas for natural anchors ... need more long slings.
From the top, the last 12' does look tricky. Looks to be a back-to-the-wall and feet-out-front-on-the-opposite-side chimney shimmy thing with an overhang mixed in. I remember that this is not too hard except for the exposure ... you are 85' up the wall and friction climbing.
Looking fwd to this climb for sure now! Need to get a few more 30' webbing slings.
Anyway, a short but good afternoon.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Jul 29, 2012 - 03:45am PT
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Used to see Mcnutt out there regularly. The man could ride a bicycle that's for sure. He was just one of a whole group of interesting SP regulars. How about Mr. Mountain? So many good folks out there, still have dreams about the place, still can imagine the sequence of moves for so many boulder problems. Someday I'll get back there.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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It's pretty bad right now....
100 in Chatsworth today, ggees berable around 6:30.
Go around back for the shade.
Drink plenty of cold drinks.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2012 - 05:26pm PT
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don't do it guy!
hot temps could kill.
here is nice wave to kool u off!
the ocean end of topanga is where u should be.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Aug 15, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
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Late night and early morning climbing!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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Tfish.... nice digs no.
Did you get busted for a bivi on the Jesus wall?????
I was told that the Sheriff got a report of someone stuck on a cliff .... at night,
so they rolled out and got the perps to come down.
And pyro.... I hate the crummy beaches we have, to cold, to murky and mostly a bacteria stew. Now if it was Hawai it would be a different story.
We have a visitor, Martin is from Patagonia.... he is visiting relatives in Culver City.
Made it to Stoney, cause "every one knows
about this place" .
He did Slime and Hoof n Mouth first try.... he will be back Thursday, were going roundback.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Aug 15, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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Nah, didn't get busted and havn't gotten busted on it. A few months ago a cop shined his light up at us, but just drove off and didn't mess with us. But last night we did freeway crack and then a quick lap on Jesus Wall in the dark, then went to In N Out and then my buddy dropped me off and I did some bouldering and then slept at Motzarts.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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I was there till 9ish..... We were at B1 with headlamps.
Lots of new climbers out lately ..... I love the energy they bring with em.
Last nite this nice young lady .... maybe 18... was really trying hard on 3 pigs... she was getting close, but no cigar. Anyway she made this comment:
"I wish I could do nothing but go Rockclimbing - everyday"
I agree 100%
And one last thing... our Argintine visitor wanted to know if Jim Doninni climbs at Stoney, cause back home in Patagonia one of his favorite climbs is "Doninni Dehridal".. (sorry for mis spellings)....
I assured him that Stoney was one of Jims all time favorite places......
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Aug 15, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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Guy his name was "Martin"
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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Matty.... 100% correct. You know I have problems remembern people's names....
Didn't remember yours for awhile too.
See you Thursday.... more jumar work for "Badger"?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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And pyro.... I hate the crummy beaches we have, to cold, to murky and mostly a bacteria stew. forget that i ever sent him a refreshing wave pic!
funniest thing a certian climber dude told me out at stoney was that "Don't surf cuzz the waters too cold". WTF?
are u guy's doing the thursday BBQ yet?
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 15, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 16, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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I'm down there for the Thurs nite weenie roast!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 16, 2012 - 10:33am PT
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I did some bouldering and then slept at Motzarts.
Hey T, you should have gone over to the cave near Turlock...there's some homeless guys who coulda kept you company. Bivying at Stoney...are you nuts?!! Did your gilrfiend kick you out?
Yer gunna die!
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Aug 27, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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I miss Stoney!! I miss climbing in general..
Hoping to see you all soon!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 27, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
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you are always welcome to come on out, temps are better now.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2012 - 02:09am PT
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Aug 28, 2012 - 03:22am PT
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What a great photo! Most people don't realize what an absolute paradise the San Fernando Valley was at one time. Nothing but orange blossoms and dry distant spaces.
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Katiekorn
Boulder climber
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Aug 29, 2012 - 10:07pm PT
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I was at stoney last night, and fell off three pigs... Initially just thought I would be sore today, but my ankle swelled enough for a Dr. visit. Long story short I have an avulsion fracture and a compression fracture. When I'm off of crutches I'll be back to watch until I can climb again... I'm already bored out of my mind!!!!
Anyone know of any good one legged traverses at stoney ;-)
~Kt
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Aug 29, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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Sorry to hear. I think I was there when you fell. Guy will know about 1 legged traverses...
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Katiekorn
Boulder climber
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Aug 30, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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Thanks, I appreciate it. I think I met Guy last Wednesday when I was still working the three pigs. He was there with another guy named David, who was showing me an alternative way.
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nature
climber
SoSlo, CO
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Aug 30, 2012 - 12:57am PT
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way to go guyman. broken stick and all!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 30, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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Katie.... OUCH!!!!!
Hope you heal up quickly. The price of bouldering can be steep but the pay off is priceless...
Thanks for the photo memory Matt, I wore that cast for almost 6 mo. I just had to figure out how to get in some climbing.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Nice photo Pyro!
Guyman that is too awesome. One legged climbing..when was that?!
BTW - I think I totally left my little carpet at Stoney Tuesday. If anyone picked it up, I'll hopefully be back at Stoney this Tuesday.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Tuesday at Stoney Point.
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Katiekorn
Boulder climber
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Guyman, thanks I hope so too. And 6 months? That's sooo long. Inspiring pic though!
Hope to be back in a week to watch,
~Kt
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Sep 12, 2012 - 02:21am PT
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Saw this on the train today...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 11:14am PT
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Nice.... but inaccurate.... in 1956 Topanga Blvd wasn't there.
Today is going to be the mother of all hot days, but its a dry heat.
See youall at 5, bring cold beer and ice, that will make it nice.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 11:56am PT
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stay kool out there! Tfish love the post card.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 20, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Found a pair of shoes at B1 last Tuesday PM....
We got em... please come by after 5 and ID, they are yours.
Otherwise they are going to Marks coumminty box o shoes.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 20, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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After Shock is soon to be an after thought!!!
For those trying the problem the problem goes from the rail straight up to the arete, all holds out left, or up and left from the rail are off.
Here is Mike Flood sticking the crux move. His hand is on the upper rail. that rial is on. The incut hold below the edge is off. Most people hit the rail a few inches lower then bump up.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Sep 20, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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That pic of Flood inspired me to get on Aftershock. Excellent boulder problem.
Matty, why do you say it's soon to be an afterthought? The big rail break more?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 20, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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nope, cuz I'm about to SEND!!!
I've only tried it a few times before, all of which were at lest 2 years ago. Then I hurt my shoulder and have been taking it easy. now its starting to feel better again and I'm feeling a bit stronger and more comfortable trying harder stuff. Tuesday I tried it again and was closer than ever before. Losing 13 pounds since the start of august has helped too.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 20, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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Matty.... Tonite.
We will get you a good spot.
Nice pic of Flood
Sam..... it's safe to come on out, much cooler last few days.
Kate.... keep coming out. You get a good workout on crutches, no?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Can't tonight Guy. Left wrist feels a little funny (think I bumped it on a throw tuesday) plus I have stuff for work tonight. See you next week I hope!!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
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Wish I could join ya'll but, alas, I'll just have to settle for some Jtree climbing.
Guy when you coming out? Perhaps weekend after next? I know Andrew is rolling out.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
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I will speak with Mr. Rock.
Kris has been hinting that we need to go to some place that Roy and Lynn discovered back in the day....
He said its a great place to go and be in the shade...and to do the hardest 5.7 ever.
Forgot the name
Will let you know
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Yeah you left without coming out for that last weenie roast. I'm busy for the next month Cole, but you can bet I'll be there sometime after that. I want to do trad lines in the 10's and 11's. Left ski track is waiting for my onsight and I've got unfinished business with Coarse and Buggy. You ever done Illusion Dweller Cole? Great route.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
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Maty, is Perpetual Motion on your list? Should be...
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 20, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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It is now THANKS, now back to the garden...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2012 - 05:40pm PT
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good job on the weight loss matty this summer!
I worked on my mono ab this summer also.
hope all is well with the rest of the crew.
crank'n queenie direct with ugly top out is one of my fav's. aftershock is good also i kinda remember being and doing it with RAM.
p.s Jan we need to c that poat card of ur's because it's a classic.
watch for snakes!
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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ATTENTION: A photographer for Ventura Blvd Magazine will be coming out to shoot bouldering action shots on Tuesday October 2 (late afternoon/early evening) for anyone interested in maybe getting themselves in a mag.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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I was over at Sandlows house drinking beer last friday. I saw this on his wall, it's a hit list from the 90's made by Jeff Johnson and Paul Anderson.
Sorry its not converted to the "V" scale.
I can, or have done like 3 of em....you?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 24, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
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^^^ all part of the 2000 point day!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Sep 24, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
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That list is awesome!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Sep 24, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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Can't be sure of some of the names, but I think I've climbed about 18-20.
Looking forward to cooler temps!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 24, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
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Me too SAM, lets get the rest, then master them, then work them into a circuit, then do them all in a day =)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 27, 2012 - 06:35pm PT
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It was nice to be back at Stoney on Tue. See you all tonight.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 28, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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2012 Stoney Point cleanup day on October 20th 8:00am-12:00pm
They ask for an RSVP to : jlim@rei.com just so they have an idea how may goodies to bring to give out. If you are gun-shy about registration... just show up. They certainly won't stop you from volunteering.
Be there or be square.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Sep 28, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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At least it's not Halloween weekend this year! Yay!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 29, 2012 - 10:35am PT
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Wow. Craig that was a plum to pick. I'll ask Jeff or Paul if they remember that. Your guide has been helpful over the years. Thanks. Any other good Stoney memories or stories?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sep 29, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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"Expansion Chamber" has been getting done since at least 1982.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Great afternoon & evening of bouldering & for those of you who got to deal with the crazy guy & his family WOW what a nut, what a night.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Damn Frumy, you got me all hard now you gotta finish me off. What happened with the crazy guy and his family??
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Frumny.... what crazy guy???
fess up.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Guy he left just before you got there. Young inner city guy (all muscled up & drunk ) walking by Turlock yelling at his woman to put their one year old down, cause " you're making that kid soft". The poor kid was tired & hot & his woman was at her limits. So I stepped in the middle of them and began giving him a lecture about being a man. Men don't raise their voices to women or children. That a real man makes sure that all women & children are save & feel save when he is around. I could go on for the hour that it took to get though his thick skull. In the end we had him falling of slime & hugging all of us old guys.
I was & am proud of all the climbers that stepped in & help me with this nut.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
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frumy break up another fight at turlock! lol...so perfect.
frumy u surfing this weekend?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I miss stoney, see you there next week gang (except Pyro who never comes anymore)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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matty i miss u.
jeff johnson is around and also in the line up surfing!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Here is JJ earlier this year with paul "spotting"
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Matty nice shot.
Sorry Pyro I spent the last few day in the Alabama Hills.
Someone needs to take a crowbar to that place. At least to the bolts that are next to easily protectable cracks.
Whats up on Wed.? I'm going to the point Tues.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Stoney Point Clean Up 10/20/12 @ 8AM
"Stoney Point Adopt A Crag Service Project
Stoney Point, Chatsworth, CA
10/20/2012
8:00-1:00
Join REI Northridge, the Boy Scouts and LA Parks and Recreation for our annual Adopt a Crag service project at Stoney Point. Bring the whole family for a day filled with environmental stewardship and fun! Water, snacks and lunch will be provided, along with a free REI Stewardship t-shirt and raffle prizes. Please dress appropriately for the weather, bring extra water, sun protection, and garden gloves for trash pick up.
Directions: Stoney Point is located on Topanga Canyon Blvd, just south of teh 118 Freeway in Chatsworth. On the 118 Freeway, exit Topanga Canyon Blvd heading south. Park on the east side of Topanga, past the signal.
Contact Jean Lim at jlim@rei.com for additional information."
http://www.accessfund.org/site/c.tmL5KhNWLrH/b.5053055/k.C90A/Events/apps/cd/content.asp?event_id={321DADE9-E1C7-41AA-8F11-A258555886BD}&content_id={389ABF51-8309-4386-B5C0-7470D71643FC}&seid=
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
The traverse named Maggies farm at Nabisco cyn.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Oct 11, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Nice Pyro, that's pretty cool. Gotta say even though I'm loving it out here Jtree, I still miss Tuesday/Thursday nights at the Point with all my buds.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 11, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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Pyro.... nice, esp the good footwork near the end.
As of now, 11:30, it has not rained in Chatsworth.
See you all later today...
excep you Cole... your in our hearts.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 11, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
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Definitely in our hearts. Poor - Cole & Steph stuck out there in Jtree.
I guess it's not the worst place to be stuck if you can't make it to Stoney.
Hope to see you soon. We wouldn't want you stuck out there alone with nothing to do but climb.
Pyro gets tope rope Tue. going again after a long lay off.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 11, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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Right now..... its pouring rain.
with puddles
Thursday- pretty much a wash out.....
Maybe we should just go to Los Toros.
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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Oct 11, 2012 - 08:37pm PT
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thanks Guyzo knew I could count on you for my evening stoney answer.
stoney needs a good rain
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 13, 2012 - 11:23am PT
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Sat....am.
It's nice and dry.
Open for bizz.
On the way in to work this morning I saw the City of LA parks and rec. truck down there.
They had a gang of gang bangers all dressed in orange jumpsuits, picking up trash along Topanga.
Getting it ready for the annual REI clean up.
Now that is a good use of taxpayer money.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Oct 13, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
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Thanks for the report Guy!
Leaving the Pt. for the Point now!
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jw35
climber
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Oct 13, 2012 - 08:26pm PT
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I'm not sure what right hand, left foot variation qualifies for Expansion Chamber, but Dan Mchale pretty much had this corner wired in 1970. He was bouldering in the mid 12's at the Time. The guy was amazing. I know the holds at Stony kind of change, from time to time, but he had a more direct way up Masters of Reality with a Killer Mantle at the Top, if not 5.12 close to it. He came out to the left of the Ear, up the middle of the Ear or out Right. When I knew him He didn't have a campus board but a Mantle Board where He could change the angle of the Mantle. The boy could definitely Mantle.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 14, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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jw35 I believe that. Most of the stuff on the S. W. corner of B-1 was getting done before I got there.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 14, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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I did a bunch of routes in the Owens Gorge, Pine Creek and the Alabama Hills climbing with Dan McHale last week.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 15, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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JW35.....
Things change... memories fade.... the ground is now about 24 inches lower than it was just 10 years ago....
It takes 4 moves to get to the "starting" moves of Pink Floyd.
You should come on out and see.
Nice video Pyro...
Tuesday????
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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Oct 16, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
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guyzo, stick around till the desk jobs come out at night tonight and ill have the finest loaded for ya, bootflake before they tow my car
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 16, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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Hooth..... deal. Pyro has some TRs set up and it should be a pretty nice nite with the weak santa anna blowing some.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Oct 16, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
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Loving the go-pro vids Pyro. Gives me a little bit of that Stoney fix. When you bringing that out to Jtree to film some routes???
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 19, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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What a sweet afternoon & evening at stoney last night.
Hope to see you all tomorrow for the clean-up.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
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this is still my fav stoney pic!
have fun cleaning i'll be wrking but i promise to pick some up on tuesday
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Oct 20, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Trash from today!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 23, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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Thanks to all who picked up the mess.
The place looks like a new dime.
Nice and dry this am. No rain last nite.
Pyro is going to set up some TRs today.
late.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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A very nice top rope day.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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you beat me to it Frumy.
any hoot enjoy the top-rope set up and climb
[Click to View YouTube Video]
red Bolt tower is an intermediate Top-rope level set up.
you need a 70m rope three stoppers 40ft of cord and a yellow/red camelot.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
great climb along with views temp's are perfect.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 24, 2012 - 12:57am PT
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Dan McHale... Heard stories about him from my dad, who lived with him in the late 60s early 70s. Barefoot runs in the snow, pull ups till failure every day, bouldering on storefront rock facade, sounded like a strong dude. If you see him, ask if he remembers Blair Glenn, my dad.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Oct 30, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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Hey, anyone going to be around Thursday noonish/early-afteroonish that might be willing to show the muppet and me around Stoney Point while we're out here in L.A.?
Would be so cool to see where Dolt tooled around. ")
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 30, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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Lila....
I get there about 5:15 .... after work thing.
People do start showing about 2 pm.....
anyone over 45 will know who your Dad was.
Famous photo of him, climbing up B1, the downclimbing route, with a huge rock in one hand.
It was the style of the time.
Hope to meet you.
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wallgumby
Big Wall climber
LA-LA, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
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Nice vids Pyro!
Zip me a text next time you are going to Stoney, I'll try to meet up with you.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Another great day & night at Stoney.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Valley dwellers! It's raining here at the beach. How's the weather over the hill?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Light on in off drizzel......here in Chatsworth.
Streets are wet.
Id say it's closed....
for a day or two.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Raining pretty good for a while now. Definitely closed until at least Sunday and if it rains some other days it will be closed until next Tuesday.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The sun has been out now almost all day......friday
And its warming up some.
If no rain on Sat. Sun will be good to go.
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ApologeticKid
Boulder climber
Thousand Oaks
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Nov 11, 2012 - 02:00am PT
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Can anyone help me identify this climb? It's somewhere in the canyon/Mozart area. It's a sit start with a double handed jug. I can't find it listed anywhere (even on Mountain Project). Here's a picture of me working on it. Anyone know the name/rating for this climb?
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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Nov 11, 2012 - 11:12am PT
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its unnamed and easy. Its stoney point kid, don't worry about the grades!
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ApologeticKid
Boulder climber
Thousand Oaks
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Nov 11, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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It's just helpful for me to know what I'm working on so I can track my progress.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 11, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Weld_it, good to see you back. Sorry I haven't had the time to make it to the mall. As you know by my bouldering I need all the betaspray you can help me with. Far more important dam near ever thread on this form needs you help.
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ApologeticKid
Boulder climber
Thousand Oaks
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Nov 11, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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Ok, noob question here, but is weld_it just a common troll?
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ApologeticKid
Boulder climber
Thousand Oaks
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Nov 11, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
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Riiiiiiight.
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dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
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Nov 11, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
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A fall pad under three pigs?
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Katiekorn
Boulder climber
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Nov 12, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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I like those blood thirsty hounds : )
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 12, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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Weld_it is no ordinary Troll.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Nov 12, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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^^^^^
Truth +1.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 12, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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A fall pad under three pigs?
Dog.... three pigs claims a ankle a week.
And Kid.... that is a old problem, maybe 5.4 or something....
you should do the rad face on the other side, much more burley.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 16, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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It rained pretty hard last nite and was wet on Friday am.....
It is cold and drizzle on Friday.
It should be closed for the weekend.
But I bet the guide services, will have clients out there....
Pretty lame IMHO....
but they don't seem to care at all..... ever.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Nov 16, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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Yep. Bump
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 16, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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Oh man, I have to stay in.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 17, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
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Nov 17, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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After every rain there are new climbs.
Kamps told me once that he never got bored of Stoney because of the dang rain.
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McHale's Navy
Boulder climber
Panorama City, California
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Nov 17, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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I everybody! This is Dan McHale - I learned to climb at Stoney. I still have my unfinished RCS card! I just went through this thread quickly and have these photos to add to the thread for now. I have more but need to do some digging. This one is of me top-roping and freeing the left Sculptored Crack in 1969. Greg Bender may have taken the photo. The next photo is on Turlock of course and #3 is goofing around on Rock 1. I did not really pound the pins in - there were scars already there!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Nov 17, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Wow Dan those are some cool old shots!! If you have more PLEASE post them! Us Stoney dudes get really psyched on that stuff.
Alert, Alert shameless plug ahead. If you hadn't already seen it check out the documentary I made about the history of climbing at Stoney Point:
http://stoneypointdocumentary.com/
Looking forward to more old photos!
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McHale's Navy
Boulder climber
Panorama City, California
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Nov 17, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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Thanks Cole! And, CaChing, I just ordered the Stoney DVD - the trailer is great. I'm glad to hear Stoney is all wet too - makes me feel better about having to to go to the gym (up here in Seattle)! The Seattle Bouldering Project is pretty cool.
It will be fun digging up the photos. I know I have a slide of top-roping the main biggest face at Stoney left of CS crack. Got most of the way up, past that short vertical isolated discontinuous flared chimney feature about 1970 - never tried that one again but should have!
Has anyone documented climbing out at Box Canyon? Is there anything going on out there these days? That big arch was a great big wall training ground and I put in belay bolts above it (on lead) to free the face above it but never had the chance to do it either. Sounds like we did the arch free but is was nailing.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 18, 2012 - 12:49am PT
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Thanks, great pic.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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Here are a couple Box Canyon pics I took. Dick James is in both. One is him standing at the base of the old rurp route below the right end of the arch. The arch is much bigger at its left end. The 2nd photo is of Dick coming over the lip of the arch above the rurp crack after traversing the arch. 3rd photo is of me during a net hammock bivi under the arch taken by my friend Otis. Photos are no later than 1970 and can be as early as 1968. I was 18 in 1970. The Box Canyon area is closer to Santa Susana Pass than Stoney.
Dick worked with me at the Pumice Mine at Mono Craters and at the pumice mill in town in Lee Vining! We were on our way to Alaska after I got out of high-school and somehow got hung up at the mine. Yosemite may have had something to do with that. I quit after a couple of months after coughing up pumice 'foam'. Dick had quit earlier because for some reason the jack-hammers blew his for-arms. My last job was as a sawyer so I skirted the jack-hammer blues.
This photo Otis took of the me and the gear for the Box Canyon Arch is at Stoney. The ropes date the photo too.
I'll end this post with this shot of Dan Wourt (not sure of spelling of last name - pronouced Wert). This is on the front face of Turlock and he's traversing one-handed. The hardest one-handed route I ever did at Stoney was what looks to be now called the Yabbo Mantle (lieback to undercling to mantle bowl). Kamps could do that route one-handed and I basically followed his lead!
Dan Wourt was a photographer and he got me into it a bit and had me buy a Pentax Spotmatic. That's probably what this was shot with. Dan did some Needles exploration with me including some early trundling in the late 60s.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
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Thanks Dan really enjoy your words and seeing those photos. Classic stuff.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Nov 18, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Awesome Dan! That last photo especially is so rad, wish we could have included it in the documentary. BTW, thanks for buying a copy! I look forward to hearing what you think.
Those Box Canyon photos are awesome too. I drove around and looked at those walls a couple times but never hiked up to the base or climbed on them. I'm not sure anyone has in a long time, maybe someone reading here will get motivated to check the area out. If you got more pics keep em coming!
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Dennis Hennek
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
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I love this thread, always have. Stoneys the place I started climbing. On my bicycle at 10 years old I would ride over the the Santa Susana Pass, with my brothers, to Coraganville, and watch actors stage gunfights around the movie sets. At that time I lived in Canoga Park, and graduated from high school in 63 with Boche and Mclean. I later moved to Chatsworth with my family and lived on 5 acres on Chatsworth Street. We had horses that I could ride to Stoney and climb or into the hills behind. That area is now bisected by a freeway. A lot of great memories and friends from that time. Since its now November and raining, remember to let the place dry out before pulling again.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 18, 2012 - 10:53pm PT
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Dennis, A few years before I started climbing I lived in Chatsworth and my family had horses as well! We only had 1/2 acre though! I wanted to rope calves and make a roping team with my step-dad but he was too chicken!
I still have the issue of Summit Magazine with Dihedral Diary in it. I must have read that story 100 times and I clearly remember being at Stoney hearing about you and Don on the NA Wall. I can still feel the energy of that day.
Here are 2 more shots of mine of Dick James nailing at Stoney. The ceiling is around the backside of Stoney and the other overhanging wall is just around from Bethoven - it's that wall that looks like grease is seaping out of it. I took photos just now of these prints since they are too big to scan. Click these for enlargements.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
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Hey Dan, you remember my dad Blair Glenn? He has talked about you a ton, nothing but great stuff. He lived with you for a bit in san jose or campbell, said you would all work out like crazy on the safeway rock wall.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
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Sure! There were some crazy times in that apartment! What's he up to? I sure lost track when I moved to Idaho. I went to visit Bill Burns and never came back but that was after moving back to SoCal. What was the name of the local Stoney Point up there above Los Gatos? I remember being at Winchell's Donuts to builder and a guy pulled up on a motorcycle wearing my stolen Holubar expedition down parka. It was very convenient that there was a cop there also.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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castle rock. My dad lives up in the hills right next to summit rock and castle rock, owned a tree service for the last 36 years. Saratoga tree service. Did you really run barefoot in the snow? (one of his stories about you)
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 19, 2012 - 01:06am PT
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Running barefoot in snow is not that big of a deal. I did it some in Idaho in about 20 degrees F but don't remember doing it with Blair. It's easier to walk barefoot in snow than run, and safer in terms of getting impaled. This pic below is from 1985 and the short story in Rock & Ice was 1989. It's kind of like walking barefoot in the snow! My original story was edited a bit so what's here is a little tacky in places - like the contact lens thing! Click for an easier read. The blurry thing near my right pocket is my chock bag - there just for psychological security. Just kidding there, it's just a ghost image from scanning.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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I once ran across a 100 yard parking lot barefoot, through 20 inches of new snow. Hurt like friggin hell.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Nov 19, 2012 - 02:30am PT
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Wow those are some great photos, Dan! Thanks for sharing. I love seeing old Stoney Point photos. It's awesome to be a part of the history.
Sooo..when will Stoney be ready to climb? (given it doesn't rain again within the next few days) Thanksgiving, perhaps? I do appreciate the rain, but I'm antsy after 3 weeks of no climb time!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 19, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Dan.... Thank you for taking the time to post up old photos.
I started climbing at SP in 1973.... Bob Kamps would show all of us around and I recall him saying.... "McHale did that one a few years ago"... many times.
You did the Yabo Mantle one handed!!!!!!! The Boys now have something to shoot for.
One thing that always amazes me is how many good climbers grew up in the San Fernando Valley.
Was it the out door lifestyle, and having a formation like Stoney close by?
Please keep the shots comming and please let all of US know if you get down this way, we would love to show you around the Point... its all cleaned up, there are many new problems and a whole lot of motivited young climbers
who are tearing it up.
And to Dances.... It's starting to dry out now (monday am) Thursday might be good. I'll post up later in the week.
Guy Keesee
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 19, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Thanks for the invite. I better get in shape! Stoney Point shape that is!
The San Fernando thing must go back to Jack Lalanne and beyond. I did jumping jacks to him in front of the TV when I was 10. My serious fitness did not really start that early though. I could not do a single pullup at Columbus Junior High at the beginning President Kennedy's fitness programs. My friend Joe Brown started taking me to a gym in Santa Monica when I was pretty young and I built up pretty fast. When I graduated from high school I could do several chin-ups with 100 lbs hanging around my neck. I know Joe was influenced by the whole muscle beach scene and I'll bet Ken McNutt was also! Joe at age 68 or so is doing 500 mile bicycle races. Ken had a big influence on me. He was 55 when I was 16 and when I turned 55 I was a bit dissappointed that I had not lived up to my image of Ken. As I got older I always told myself I would maintain some resemblance to Ken when I turned 55. I'm hanging in there though and have been recovering from a few injuries like everyone gets.
John Gill must have been the guy that started the more specific exercise regime. Being specific is important. When I moved back to LA from San Jose I decided I wanted to cross-country ski race and while in San Jose I had the idea to ski on the beach for training. That's exactly what I did and wore the fish scales off some Track skis at Santa Monica. I did that at night since it was a little weird. I won my first 2 citizen races at Mammoth and Yosemite and more in Idaho. It was like that with the small climbing wall I made that I could change the angle of by leaning it against a tree or letting it hang from a rope for overhangs. It was what I called my mantle board and I could bolt various sized mantles to it and practice doing one-arm mantles with the board at various angles. I'm thinking of making a living room sized version that is not so tall.
It was important to have the Sierra Club around too. I actually first started climbing out to the extreme west end of the valley with a friend. We got the alpine bug from somewhere - like that Spencer Tracy movie. If you look out to the end of the valley toward Thousand Oaks there was a ridgeline that looked like an eagle spreading it's wings. That's where I hung out if I was not fishing on Malibu Pier. We bought some nylon ropes from a hardware store and would scramble and hang ropes over horns of rock and rappel Dulfer-Style. When I first went to Stoney we would hang a rope on that lip of rock up on Rock 1 and lower off. My mother at some point called the Sierra Club and I got hold of their schedule from the RCS and learned of Stoney's existence. My first time there, she just dropped me off and I could see somebody climbing up the far left crack of the main face there. I practically ran up to it and followed the guy up. It could have been Tom Higgins for all I knew. My first real climb was free-solo! I had no idea! I thought the ropes were just for going down. I joined the RCS and learned just enough to be dangerous and never did completely finish my card. Hey, climbing was all about rebellion and there were always people to show you the ropes! I never went to my last rolfing session either!
Getting back to San Fernando energy, it was just the shear numbers of people, just like the Bay area, that created the numbers of good climbers. Couple that with some friendly competition and some of the most amazing climbing in the world, just a few hours away, and the rest is history.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2012 - 12:54am PT
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Hello Dan McHale. thank's for posting ur pictures.
Stoney point got me ready for my hardest big wall the Tis-sa-sack route in 2001. i thought it b kool to put ur rack pic along with mine.
the roof picture is the best because i've pounded that thing also.
Ryan Mattock
P.s .
to Dennis Hennick
you still have a box of bolts from Westridge Mountaineering on hold!!
greatness for stoney crew!
Dennis Hennek wrote on the Stoney Point thread!!!!
Nov 18, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
I love this thread, always have. Stoneys the place I started climbing. On my bicycle at 10 years old I would ride over the the Santa Susana Pass, with my brothers, to Coraganville, and watch actors stage gunfights around the movie sets. At that time I lived in Canoga Park, and graduated from high school in 63 with Boche and Mclean. I later moved to Chatsworth with my family and lived on 5 acres on Chatsworth Street. We had horses that I could ride to Stoney and climb or into the hills behind. That area is now bisected by a freeway. A lot of great memories and friends from that time. Since its now November and raining, remember to let the place dry out before pulling again
thank you sir!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 20, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Ryan, was there a big rockfall up there on Tis-sa-sack in recent years? I saw a video that looked like it was close. Did you post a TR?
Is Westridge gone? I could not find it in a search.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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hi dan!
the steep half dome Tis-sa-sack route is/was fun!
no rock fall when we climbed it in mid-sept of 2001.
recently in may/2012 i climbed the prow with dave katz and could see the angel rock scar which has been there since dec 2001.
i owe all my rock craft skill to stoney point.
edit:
prow katz may 2012.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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When I climbed the NW Face of Half Dome (back in 1980, when I was 16) there was a party on Tis-Sa-Ack that was sending down huge trundles. They even had to rap off to get a spare rope after one of their ropes was cut. You think that would scare one away but strangely, ever since then, I've always wanted to climb that route.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 20, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
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Getting back to San Fernando energy, it was just the shear numbers of people, just like the Bay area, that created the numbers of good climbers. Couple that with some friendly competition and some of the most amazing climbing in the world, just a few hours away, and the rest is history.
Dan.... that sums ITall up pretty nicely.
You talked about Ken McNut..... I remember him, he was all buff, as old as my Dad and owned a BMW motorbike. He could do all the problems and I recall being warned about getting on a handball court with him...
It's really great of you to post up about Stoney, please keep the pics comming.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 20, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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Great pictures & posts. I was really bummed to miss Dolt's daughter ( Lilabiene ) a couple weeks ago, But everything added here in the last few weeks has been great.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 20, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Right now its getting HOT outside, it will be good on Wed for sure.
The boss man just let us know that we getting out at 2 on wed... time to go do some climbing after work. Great.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 21, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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Hope to see you there today guy! I'll be there by 4:30 or so =))
Dan - thanks so much for the old photos and stories. I read your little blurb from the magazine about firewalking on your hands...then I googled it...could not find any reference to anyone else doing it. You know if others have? Do you still firewalk?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Matty, I have not firewalked for about 14 years. Before that I did it for about 14 years! I started thinking maybe I was part of the climate change problem building all those big bonfires! To do it on your hands you have to be able to walk on your hands proficiently - that leaves out quite a few people. I would get into a frog stand and press into a handstand and then take off. I would actually walk on HOT coals too. Much firewalking gets done on coals that are already burned out - that hardly glow in the dark. At the end of one firewalking session in which a guy younger than me ( I may have been 40 and he 25 ) copied everything I did that night, including carrying somebody piggyback across the coals, decided to follow me across doing a handstand. The coals were starting to die down by then and we raked them into a maybe 2 to 3 foot wide area to cross. I did it first - there was enough there to get each hand in the fire - I did fine. He blisterd every one of his fingers when he did it. I had already done that in learning and building up to what I knew! Nevertheless, there was no way for me to know if he would get burned or not, and warning somebody as exuberant as he was would be pointless - in firewalking it may be counterproductive to tell somebody they're gonna burn. I could write a book and wanted to but it's all a little weird. It seems to boil down (I like punns) to being able to extend your Chi energy to the bitter end - then there is no bitter end. It is hard to do that in the face of what is going on. That makes it a Martial Art thing to me. If somebody absolutely surrenders their hands to the heat with no holding back, they will be OK. The trouble is, I doubt somebody can get to that point of letting go on the hands without getting burned first. I have no idea what happened to that young guy. I doubt that he died.
Just so we don't screw up the Stoney Point thread with this crap I'll maybe start a new thread. There are a number of climbers I've shown how to firewalk including Scott Fischer, Greg Child, Rich Jonston of the Vertical Club, Mark Rodell,..........
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 21, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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I quite enjoy threads like this, celebrating klettergartens near to big cities. The kinds of places where many of us got started climbing.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 21, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Just so we don't screw up the Stoney Point thread with this crap I'll maybe start a new thread. There are a number of climbers I've shown how to firewalk including Scott Fischer, Greg Child, and Mark Rodell!
Don't worry, we get OT all the time on this one.... lots of stuff goes on at Stoney besides rockclimbing.
And Mighty.... what do they have in BC for a local pile o rocks?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 21, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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Well, in and near Vancouver the traditional spots were the North Van quarry and Lighthouse Park, although there was climbing near the BCMC cabin on Grouse, on Crown and the Camel, and Seymour, some perhaps pre-war. There are now a half dozen or more spots in various places along the north shore, although half or more the traffic may still be to Lighthouse Park. A lovely spot, and one of the last bits of old growth forest near sea level in the lower mainland.
There's also some stuff in the Fraser Valley, but nowadays with better roads, people often simply go to Squamish on summer evenings.
Andy's thread, mostly about Lighthouse Park and area, is at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/724921/By-the-sea-the-shining-sea We're still hoping Chaz will visit, and take kite photos of the lighthouse.
Someone I talked with the other day started climbing in Munich, and had lots to say about the klettergarten there.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 22, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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Happy Thanksgiving to all of you Stoney Point nuts.
Keep pulling.
Don't forget it takes everyone pulling on their corner of the planet to keep the planet spinning.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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thread drifts are not a problem the stoney thread will remain..
these guys want to learn more and more about the point!
happy-turkey weekend.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 23, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Damn the Torpedos! Ok - well they are sandstone so maybe they belong in the Stoney 'Point' thread. After I moved to Idaho, my parents followed me to there, and then they moved to Wyoming after buying a piece of property that had some sandstone boulders. It was outside Riverton. They would have made a nice centerpiece for a Hugh Hefner theme. It was just one of those things I never followed through on. Here they are about 37 years later - enjoy!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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McHale tell us about stoney's obscure aid climbs if ya have any?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 24, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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NOTHING at Stoney Point is obscure! :>) I don't have anything fun to report really, even though it was all fun. I don't think I ever did the Boche Death Route but I'm not sure. There's a good chance I did. I did a fair amount of practice nailing at The Quarry in Boise getting ready for soloing the Dihedral in 77 (and 75 - got iced out that year and hit in the face with a nice chunk of ice. What stopped me there, though, was just not being able to jumar the icey ropes). I remember now, too, that somebody stole the jumars I had left up there. That could have been the final straw!
The original plan for 77' was to climb the Salathe with my friend Tom McLeod but we got totally rained out earlier that spring (couldn't even start) so I went back and soloed the Leaning Tower and Dihedral Wall in June in about a ten day period.
I took a grounder from the top of one of the walls at the Quarry during a practice session for El Cap and cut a vessel on the side of my head. We were on the way to the hospital but then we stopped the bleeding, so I never went until it had healed over and the vessel had broken under the skin. When I did get it opened back up, the doctor and nurse and wall of the clinic got sprayed with blood! I think I still had the stitches in when I soloed the Dihedral. I think that was the only aid fall I had ever taken. The rock at the Quarry was pretty good stuff, so it was easy to push on it, but still, it was not granite. I was certainly nailing more difficult things than what is encountered on the Dihedral. I mostly aided thin cracks there, that had little potential of going free but the one I fell on was mostly blades behind flakes that were a little too thin.
When a person learns to nail at Stoney they can probably appreciate more the bight of pin tips, hooks, and bashies in real rock.
I'll get a photo printed from climbing at the quarry and post it here when I have time. I also found 2 slides of trying the main face at Stoney free - the section between the large main crack (CS crack?) and the shorter left hand crack. I got about half way up between that flared chimney feature in the middle of the face and the top. Like I said in another post, we never went back to try again.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 25, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Mark Thorpe's article about Stoney Point in Ventura Blvd Magazine is on the streets. Although it is not a technical exercise is it a very well written and thoughtful accounting of where we climb.
It's well worth a read.
An online edition is likely to be posted soon to:
http://www.ourventurablvd.com/
Here's the link to the photos - Mark there's a couple of good ones of you....
http://galleries.jeffberting.com/stoney_point/index.html
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Nice link, thank you.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
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Raining hard..... closed for the weekend!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Nov 29, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Cool article, thanks for the link! To bad that Cole Gibson guy hasn't a clue what he's talking about...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 05:34pm PT
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Mchale this is some obscure aid line which is right next to sculpters crack. we have a little info but not much.
also: no climbing on the sandstone after a good soaking!!!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
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I have seen features like that in sandstone. Pins may have been placed in those holes but they could have a natural beginning. I have seen natural pockets in incipient cracks like that. I don't recall nailing that one.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Nov 29, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
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McHale you might need to click on the photo & enlarge it to see it, between the top two holes ( pin scars ) there is a bolt (?) or something. I'm sure this was an aid line long ago. Ryan, Waugh might know.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 11:56am PT
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Mchale when did u climb the obscure aid line in the back?
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Hey Pyro, a bunch of those new bolts you guys just put in on those route in the pic are already missing hangers. I was there a few nights ago and the far right one has 2 rusty petzl hangers, and then the ones for the route to the left just has 1 mad rock hanger left.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 05:32pm PT
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Tfish i found out the other day when i went to set it up. people seem to think it's okay to take the hangers. looks like waugh is going to have to glue em in. i called him we laughed!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nov 30, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
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What about using the 5 piece style bolt, where they'd have to take the bolt out to take the hanger instead of just the nut. Does that deter these dicks at all?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
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Just leave the studs without the hangers and bring the nuts and hangers with when you go to set up. Why keep giving these clowns hangers?
If they'll unscrew a nut they'll unscrew the bolt in a 5 piece. Then yer bolt'll be gone too...
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 30, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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Pyro, Several of cool lines left of Sculptor's Crack. SOWR parties worked them over good in the 1980's (sans pins).
That line in your photo is tweaky-hard. I did see one person send it once.
Left of that is a big arch with an undercling that leads up to a dyno for this big 3-finger hole. Kinda hard to do since a tree is shooting up under that.
Further left is another line the top of which is marked by a single hangerless bolt.
Bring long long runners to TR these bad babies an get a good wholesome pump on.
I've heard that Gaines is promoting using a 100 ft 10.5 mm static line for all TR set-ups. Best idea I've ever heard and I started doing it too. It is ideal for exploring off the trade routes at Stoney.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Nov 30, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Pyro, which obscure aid line you referring to? You mean the one in the black and white photo I posted - same area as in your photo there? That would have been about 1969 or so.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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You can see those 3 knob like chicken heads in my other photo and can see we came in from left of those. The route the climber is on in your photo looks familiar too - meaning I recognize it.
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life is a bivouac
Trad climber
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Hey you guys out at Stony...
Back in the early to mid '60's as
Chouinard was making his pins, we: Hennek, Boche, Dan Griffin, Pete Spocker, Myself (Russ McLean)and of course some others, were eating up any virgin aid lines that would take three or more placements.(after all aid was the King at this time). All of us were still using soft iorn to it's extreme...bending them, twisting them and snaping them... then came the Holubar knife blades and the RURPS and of course the rest of Chouinard's sizes... As Hennek, Boche and I would skip classes from High School and from Pierce JC to work for Yvon in Burbank at his "Lean-To" making said pins, we had the best ranges of thicknesses and lengths. Not to mention the mentoring of Yvon and the likes of T.M. Herbert, Gary Hemming, and Layton Kor.
So, in those back gullys we nailed almost every line to the top...
Hey Dan McHale, Good to see you're around!!
That photo left of the Sculpture cracks, there are two other lines further left as well done by the usual suspects...
Cheers from Bishop! Russ
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Hey Russ, I always wanted to go to Pierce College! I mentioned earlier in a post that we had a half acre in Chatsworth with a couple quarter-horses, angus cattle.....and then we moved to Tarzana where we had 4 acres for things to spread out. That's when I started climbing and lost my interest in the animals! The closest I ever got to Pierce was jogging and driving by it. It looked like a really cool place.
I'm sure I would have loved pounding on pitons while making them - metal rules! I got into making chockstones when I moved up to San Jose and wanted to do that for a biz and then Chouinard came out with his Hexentrics and it kinda took the wind out of my sails!
I've got a Stoney route for all you guys to talk about. Way around back but closer to the freeway side there is a ceiling close to the ground that can be under-clinged (a very good finger crack) and traversed but your face and upper body are crammed real hard against the ceiling. I did that once - its rating has to be up there a ways but it is pretty basic - did it first try more or less - free of course. I remember Keith Schwartz being there and trying it and he could not do it so it can't be too easy. It's pretty much like the upper horizontal part of the Great Roof on the Nose, but with a better finger crack. Seems like the area for the feet is pretty featureless except for friction on a 90 degree wall. The ceiling is 90 degree also.
I did not see the Undercling in the Stoney Point DVD. Great DVD by the way!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The Pin scars.... turn into climbs!
The Sun showed its face today about 12 noon.....
Might be OK by Thursday, if we get some more sunny and 70.
Several key holds have already broken off this season...
The big undercling on Masters.... but it still goes.
DAN.... you don't mean "Hot Tuna" as the overhang?
When you get down here, we can take a little walk.
We also need to determine if Yabo Mantle goes one handed... some of the youngsters are very skeptical.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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That area of Rock 1 has changed a bit in 40 years but the basic mantle is still there in the Stoney DVD. There's no way I could do that now of course being the ripped apart old man I am. I'm sure I could do it 2 handed though. There used to be a good solid undercling below the mantle that was relatively easy to get to one handed, and then the move to the shallow handhold in the face of the mantle was a not that hard (slightly dynamic) but the crux was pulling into the mantle one-handed and doing that. I used to be able to do one-arm chinups, and muscle-ups without kipping, and mantling was something I specifically trained for - one handed. I've been watching for mantling moves in modern bouldering videos and have not seen much, like it's a little out of style. There was a mantle high on the west side of Rock 1 in the old days called the Chouinard Mantle. It used to be 5.10 and I would do that unroped all the time - even jokingly down-rated it to 5.7.
Were is Masters? Can you post a photo? If you knew about the undercling round back you would know what I'm talking about. It might just be hidden under brush now. I had a route I put up out at Santa Susana Park called Drop Dead Traverse that was on a nice little wall at the back of the park. I was there a couple years ago looking for it and it was all grown over and unrecognizable.
My mantle on Pea Soup at the Needles is probably harder that I realized at the time, especially considering I did not get the bolt in until after I did it. It's off to the left of were the modern easier version goes, out left from the tree at the end of the first pitch that goes free now. I did not do that first pitch free but may have made up for it on the face climbing up there to the left of the alcove belay. The mantle is a small slopping cone that sticks out a couple inches in a steep face and there are no holds above or below, after the mantle is done you have to get your foot onto it by of course standing on the hand first. I had to get a bolt in that hard Neddles rock while standing on that little sloping sucker. I only got it in halfway and tied it off. The next move was to let my upper body slide across the friction of the face a foot or maybe more to get to a right hand hold - kind of a slow motion dyno (no way to reverse the move) without knowing if it would work - but it did.
I'm having more Stoney black and whites made to post here - maybe in a couple weeks. Yeah Guyman, it would be fun to get down there - maybe next Fall - I'm training harder than I have for quite a few years!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Pea Soup..... My first Bar-B-Q....
M. Pope and I did that thing back in 74..... aid of course.
We became benighted just below the good ledge on P5 (?) and spent a night out in June at the Needles in t-shirts.... can you say nOObs. We did FREE the aid pitch (the last aid on the climb)off of a big ledge cause we were in a hurry- we had dropped our water that nite and tossed the food (saltine crackers)... we were very nOOb.
I have Free Climbed the first pitch.... it's really fun and burley. The last 60 feet are very interesting. The next is A3 . stacked KnifeBlades... still. This pitch has some FREE climbing right in the middle, I have a angle with "FB" painted on it that I cleaned from a small hole in the middle of that pitch.
Cant wait to see photos...
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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no tuesday for sure guyzo?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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It rained hard for days, I would think even Thursday is iffy unless it is warm and sunny the whole week. Pull gently on those holds for a while.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I've been looking more closely at the Yabo Mantle and found this pic. If he (Marc Perry) is mantling just on the sloping platform with no hold, that's not what I'm talking about. One-handed I used the hold up and to this climbers left.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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DAN.... you don't mean "Hot Tuna" as the overhang?
What Dan is describing - being an undercling like the upper part of Great Roof - does not sound like Hot Tuna. I can't figure what he's talking about, it'll be interesting to find it.
Someone will know...
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I just looked up Hot Tuna http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpSUn0Zo0x0
It's not Hot Tuna and it's not that long but it is a ceiling like that, but flatter, and has a crack that going straight up into the corner. It gets traversed, it's not a climb out and over the ceiling.
This must be what I did one-handed on Rock 1 (different undercling than the one above that's like Hot Tuna) but the lower part I'm sure is a bit different now and the undercling may not be as good as it used to be, but it does not look like the mantle hold has changed much;
Undercling - V2
Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Only other person I knew of that did this one-handed was Bob Kamps.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dan.... that Mark dude is doing Yabo Mantle, and if he is using the little cut hold with his left hand.... it dosen't count.
Trying hard to recall a roof with a crack comming through it. Not much like that at Stoney.
The WET WEATHER STATUS REPORT: A very wet and cold morning here in Chatsworth.
Climbing is CLOSED....
I will update WED am....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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a roof with a crack comming through it
The way I read Dan's description is that it is a roof with a crack across the back going up in at the joint of the wall with the roof, creating a feature which can be traversed by undercling.
I've got a Stoney route for all you guys to talk about. Way around back but closer to the freeway side there is a ceiling close to the ground
We'll have to go looking around.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Yes, Solem has the description correct. It's not like that other ceiling higher up and farther south that has a nailing route up over it - the one in one of my black and whites that I posted. Who knows, maybe the ceiling collapsed. It's much like Hot Tuna in that it's low to the ground, but it was pure undercling in a crack.
So, do you guys have strict rules about when to climb at Stoney after the rain? Do the Gendarmes show up and say.......
I know it was always a problem. We had to self-police on certain routes for sure. It never rains in California!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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If Frumy catches you climbing when it's wet you are in a world of hurt.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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I believe Dan is talking about the rock formation up Topanga, on the old Santa Susana pass road by the freeway.
Kris is right about climbing when Stoney is wet !
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jw35
climber
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The undercling Dan is refering to is about 25 feet right of Hot Tuna. Its somewhere in the mid 11's and it's a no fall problem. While it is close to the ground the landing is Bad. Used to do it all the Time. Loved it. As to Yabo's Mantle, one Handed............ I did see Jeff Johnson do it that way with out the Cut. Very, very impressive.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I can't say. It would be like what you see in the left part of that ceiling in there, where the crack goes up. I mostly remember the general difficutly of being crammed against the upper wall because you have to undercling. I vaguely remember roping up for it but am not sure - looks high enough that a rope would help. That would almost have to be it though in that pic? There are not that many ceilings like that back there.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The Wilson Roof.....
You got me confused when you talked about it being close to the ground....
In T-fish's link.... that shows one of the "erased sport climbs" you can find at SP. They were bolted in the Mid-late eighties and the bolts lasted like 15 min......
Mickey Mouse is just to the left of that climber and right of Hot Tuna.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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The roof in the pic to the right of the climber is the one JW35 is talking about. But it's not up by the freeway, it's right next to hot tuna. If you park at the top end of stoney and walk towards Scuptures and those routes it's like the first spot you'd come to on the right.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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YES, That is the one.
Back when Wild Jim Wilson was really wild... he would try and get you to do it. After you backed off it , Jim would just float the thing.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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i've seen mike flood aid/lead that wilson roof. i have been up the mikey mouse problem along with the tuna traverse.
great read!
Edit: life is a bivouac aka: russ Mclean glad ur happy in bishop! i'll keep the stoney pic flow'n.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Pretty nice weather this last week...
Stoney is good to go for this weekend, for all that care.
thanks
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BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
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A good day on the S-Crack at the front wall yesterday.
Perfect weather ... calm,clear and cool.
Boy Scouts, Photo Shoots and LADF paramedics.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 12, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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Starting to Rain...... in Chatsworth.
Stoney is closed for a day or two.
BlueWing... last nite, there was nitetime climbing action on the Jesus Wall
and the S-crack.
Was that you???
T-fish??
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BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
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Dec 12, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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Hey ...
No, I can't get away from work during the week
That may have been the guys in my pix ... Alex?
I met them last Sat ... they said they may climb Tues nite
BTW ...
there are bees about half way down the S-Crack, 12' off the rt side
they didn't even notice me when I was there on Sat
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 13, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
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I remember bees back in the 60s and 70s up there. Is S-Crack the long one? Seems like we called it CS Crack - stood for Chicken Sh#t I think.
Here are some photos I just got back from the lab. First one here is Greg Bender on Turlock about 1970. That's Dan Wourt on the left on the ground and Richard Poust.
Below: This one is Greg Bender trying to free the main face at Stoney and the one below that is me up higher with Greg in the foreground. I don't remember who took the photo. I have another slide I will try to find of me higher up on the wall. I did not make it all the way though and we never got it together to set the ropes up again. These are from about 1970 also.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 13, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
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Dan... nice shots... the s crack is the long one on the left.
I do recall it being "CS" crack.... not to much goes on on the big face, the better climbing is around back.
Greg Bender.... I wonder what happened to him?
When I started climbing he owned the place, along with Ken McNut, Mark Clemins (sp?)and Bob Kamps.. John Bachar wanted to do "all the mantles" that they could do.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 13, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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Bender was in Arizona last I heard. I ran into him at a bouldering contest there about 1989 maybe.
There should be routes all over that face at Stoney by now.....get to it gang! Here are a couple more aid shots from around back. I'm the guy in the silohuette shot, did a hanging belay there for shot number 2 of Dick James.
Dick James cleaning below
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Dec 13, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
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I remember Bender out at Stony in the early 70s. The guy had remarkable technique... really learned a bunch by watching him. He seemed to disappear for a while and when I saw him again he'd put on a lot of weight but was still doing these really difficult problems with perfect static grace like some kind of Ti Chi master. Great pics thanks for posting them.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 13, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
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Yeah, Bender had some kind of mysterious force he could tap into. He was into chi and that sort of thing. I did not learn that stuff till later. My mantra was Strength is Technique! We always joked about our different approaches.
I had a funny rememberance while climbing at the Alabama Hills this Fall. I was looking down at the dirt on the ground at the start of a climb and realized I was thinking some thought about the dirt. I realized I was unconciously suppressing an urge to but my hand in the dirt - that's what we used to do before chock came along!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:12am PT
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Nah Guy, that wasn't me on the Jesus Wall. I've been being a gym rat for the past few weeks.
I did this a few months ago though. McHale, you got any shots from this route? Its Just north of Stoney but right before the freeway.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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That crack goes free at 5.10 now.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 18, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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I know, I tried to lead it onsite like a year ago and decked from maybe a foot below where I'm at in that pic. So now I just aid it and TR it.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 18, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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TFish, got a bigger pic of that area? It still looks like part of Stoney there. Not sure where you mean. Doesn't look familiar though. Somehow the Bird sh#t looks familiar!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
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Dan... it's about 200 yards north of the RR tracks, east side of Topanga Canyon. A old one lane paved road runs along the base.
Someplace on this thread, there are more photos of the climbs.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 18, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
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It's right there, you walk up to the old paved road and then up a short trail. It's a crack in a dihedral and then you kinda top out and traverse right and then go up another short crack in another dihedral.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Dan these pics are fantastic! i knew you could share. thanks for taking the time.
did you buy those pitons from the mtn shop just down the road?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 19, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Is that an old add for an old store? Let's see, I probably bought pitons from Westridge and the Mountain Store back in the day.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 20, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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Dan... this store was in the late 80's
It was areally nice old time MT. Shop.
The owner would let us BBQ in the back.
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Katiekorn
Boulder climber
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Dec 24, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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This rain is annoying...Is it ever going to stop long enough to climb again? Lol...
Where do the rest of you go to climb when the sandstone doesn't have enough time to dry?
*itching to climb outdoors*
~Katie
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 24, 2012 - 10:37am PT
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Anywhere that is granite is usually good to go right after the rain. I was at the riverside quarry yesterday and it was really nice, tshirt and shorts weather and there was barely anyone there.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 24, 2012 - 11:03am PT
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Dan... this store was in the late 80's
It was areally nice old time MT. Shop.
The owner would let us BBQ in the back.
I remember that store, and the bbqs
As I recall, the building was pink.
The manager was a really cute girl
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 28, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
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It is still wet at STONEY.... mud everywhere.
So please consider the condition of the mud/sandstone before climbing.
Think of your children and grandchildren, and how much you want them to
enjoy the historic problems that you like.
Many of the "young guns" have gone to JT for some hot climbing.
They are in JUMBO ROCKS site #1 and #2 for the new years festivities, they wanted me to pass along a big.... "come on by" welcome for any who wish to join in.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 28, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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Current temp in Josh is 48. In town. Noon Friday. Brr.
Hi tomorrow 49, Sunday 47...
It's weird, the night time lows are only down around 32. I've been out there when you wake up in the morning and it's 20, but a few hours later it's nice and warm in the 60s.
Oh well call me a wimp.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Dec 28, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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I was out there Wed. & Thurs. It was cold but really pretty, with tons of people everywhere. Actually in the sun if was very nice. Dress warm.
Laurie I think was the name of the girl that owned the mountain store when it was up on Devonshire st.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Dec 28, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Frumy, thanks for that. I believe that was her name.
Didn't that store move over to the mall on Tampa?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 28, 2012 - 06:04pm PT
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Kris... they are all excited to go climb...the joys of youth.
Im going to go anyway.
I remember when you would go... "no matter what the weather forcast was"
Are you experienced?
Happy New Year
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 28, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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10b.... I think the store over on Tampa was "Little Stone" or something like that..... not in the mall but next to Mongolian BBQ.
I think that one of the best was Ed's shop... Art Of Climbing. He had really nice stuff and the first "climbing wall"
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I climbed at Stoney today. The ground was muddy in spots, but the rock seamed pretty dry. I got some TR solo laps in on Mozarts and Sculptures crack.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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For a short while The Mountain Store was on Tampa just south of Nordoff in the plaza on the east side of Tampa.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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It has been pretty dry and cold in Chatsworth all last week.
Stoney is open , but if it rains sat nite, like the weather-girl is saying.... stay off the rocks.
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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Okay, for those who want a refresher in mountain store history near Stoney:
1. Kelty opened sometime in the 70s at the shopping center, SE corner of Tampa / Nordhoff
2. Little Stone's opened sometime in the 70s on the NW corner of Reseda / Plummer (?). (Richard) Stone & (Lamar) Little, owners.
3. Kelty sold to the Thompsen brothers (Jim/Greg) (and perhaps some others?), owners of Wilderness Experience, ca 1978 or so. Renamed "The Mountain Shop" in a moment of crazy originality.
4. Mountain Shop sadly closed its doors sometime around 1985-86 or so. Laurie Zimmet, then the manager of the store, then opened the Backcountry Store at a tiny spot on Devonshire. She scratched out an existence for a couple of years before finally closing shop in the late 80s.
5. I dunno when Little Stone's finally petered out of existence -- i.e., if it lasted longer than Laurie's shop or not.
Lots of folks on this forum were associated with one or more of the shops above, which were incestuously associated with Wildy at various times as well, before that concern became a label slapped on generic Chinese-made junk.
We had some good times back then.
Curt
p.s. It's extremely possible that I've made mistakes and omissions above...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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The original Kelty- Mountain store was where A16 is now located on Reseda just north of Ventura Blvd. Jim moved it to Tampa in the early 80's.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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The original Kelty- Mountain store was where A16 is now located on Reseda just north of Ventura Blvd
FRUMY,
sorry, but that's incorrect. The original Kelty shop was on Victory Blvd in Burbank. nearest cross street was Western.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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I'm sorry but in 1973 my girl friends brother & his good buddy cut through the roof of the Mountain store on Reseda & robbed the place. A few months latter they both died when a rope they stole failed.
They actually robbed the place twice. After the first time all Jim did was nail boards over the hole they cut though the roof. They went back through that same hole.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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was'nt A16 named "A-rip-it-clean"...lol.
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
portland, Maine
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Curt had it right as far as I know. But I didn't move to Ca until 79. Laure was a friend of mine and she loved the store. At the end of the Mtn Shop she took the mailing list and called everyone until she raised the money for the BC store. That store lasted 3.5 years. Last time I heard she lives in the Northwest USA.
That "freeway crack" is called The Gift was a TR 5.9 or lead at 5.10
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jw35
climber
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Actually We even have Shirts with the Logo. Imagine that.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Is it safe to climb at Stoney today?
We've been getting a little rain here and there in NoHo, but I don't know what the weathers been like in Chatsworth.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 11:57am PT
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here is a picture of the gang over at the three-sisters boulders climbing the Freeway-crack. if original name is the gift then we'll have to get the guide books annotated.
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Largeman
Sport climber
Santa Clarita, CA
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I see that there are a lot of bolts without hangers at Stoney Point. Does anyone know what Size they are so I can bring my own equipment (hangers and nuts).
Should I buy 3/8, 1/2, 10mm, 12mm, or 14mm?
The naked bolts were on top of a couple routes. I only remember two to routes specifically. They are found on Then Main Wall, The main Chimney 5.6 and Mozart's Wall for Amadeus 5.10a and Amadeus II 5.10a.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dances... yes it is dry... intill it starts raining.
Curt has the names and dates pretty well as I recall.
Where A16 is now... Reseda/ventura, ish. Has been a climbing shop, under different names, forever.
Who remembers SPORTS LTD. ? on Ventura Blvd, Woodland Hills?
I blew a bundle in that place. I remember Eiger Ovals... 20 ea for $40.00, EB's $25 and the Eldered (sp) rope... $120!!!...used that cord for a long time... That one got stretched about 20 extra feet at ARCH ROCK, when Bullwinkle took a flyer. I decided to toss it into a dumpster in C4, someone dug it out and loaned it to the PO FA boys who used it for hauling and fixing??!!!.
And the SPCA is NO JOKE.... that secret society stills rules with a iron fist. They decide what BOLTS STAY and witch ones go. The meetings are held in secret and the ruling board members attend the meetings in costume and do not know the other board members. Ask JW35... he/she is the President and dictator for life.
EDIT:
Should I buy 3/8, 1/2, 10mm, 12mm, or 14mm?
You need all.... ;>)
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Who remembers SPORTS LTD. ? on Ventura Blvd, Woodland Hills?
I do. Spent a few bucks there
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Bouldered yesterday, it was really sticky and nice and dry.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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And the SPCA is NO JOKE.... that secret society stills rules with a iron fist. They decide what BOLTS STAY and witch ones go. The meetings are held in secret and the ruling board members attend the meetings in costume and do not know the other board members. Ask JW35... he/she is the President and dictator for life.
lol!
i forgot how to get my SPCA number.
jan has such a big finger!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:28am PT
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Who remembers SPORTS LTD. ? on Ventura Blvd, Woodland Hills?
I bought my first backpack there, or rather my mother did. Was a Mountain Master external-frame. I couldn't make it feel right so we took it back and got a Camp Trails. That would have been about 1965 when I was 13.
Just for the record; It may have been the Spring of 1973 I quit working at Mtn Life in San Jose and was riding my bicycle to LA and got into a minor accident and had to hitch a ride south. First place I went was the Reseda Mtn Store. I was sitting in the back of the Store with a one of the guys that worked there - Wiemesfelder (spelling?)and watched people coming into the store looking to buy things but there was nothing to buy. It was a pathetic scene. Wiemesfelder told me Dr. Jones would give the store to anybody that would take it. I heard Westridge would not even touch it. At first I told Tom Turntine from Los Gatos about that and was going to go in on it with him and Dr. Jones, but that fell through and it became just me and Dr. Jones. I put in $3,000.00 and Jones matched it. The place was $40,000.00 in debt with no inventory. My connection with Tom Hendricks and his connections with The North Face quickly had me stocking the Mtn Store with Lowa Boots and North Face gear. I got it out of debt in a year of hard work. I think I worked too hard and got tired of it, but because my original plan after leaving Mtn Life was to cross-country ski race, I gave the store away to Greg Bender. I took my $3,000 investment and a bit more (certainly not enough to make my year of labor worth while) and went to Idaho. Rumor has it that I must have left the store in bad shape since I gave it away. In actuality, the store was doing very well and giving it away was about the dumbest thing I ever did, and I seemed to have gotten the rap for it going downhill again. I was a bit depressed about it for a number of years. I have no idea of what happened to it after I left. It sounds like ( from reading this thread ) Jim Thomsen ended up with it again a number of years later? That's poetic justice since the Thomsens had put so much into it before I ever showed up, and I almost felt like me and Jones stole their share! I left to ski race and had some anti-materialism thing going on in my head but eventually got into making packs myself in Idaho, but that was after starting the Old Boise Bootworks with Ken Horwitz and leaving that.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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hey Mchale good to hear from ya! thanks for the mtn shop beta.
the jim thompson is or is not related to doug thompson?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Jan 10, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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Oops! It's Thomsen - no P and there's an E. I'll edit what I wrote above. That's Greg and Jim Thomsen of Wilderness Experience.
It's snowing in Seattle today - just started at 9:30 AM. Maybe I'll go do my buildering workout in full conditions! Should be bewildering.
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jimthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
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Wow, fun to read about the valley stores. And great to hear from you McHale....we had some great times!
The stories about the Tarzana Mountain Store are pretty much accurate. Greg and I started Wilderness Experience in the back room. I had worked for Kelty in Glendale in the late 60's and was the one who aDded the climbing section in 1968. They opened a store in Northridge that Greg and I bought sometime around 78 or so. Curt's right, very original name. We were going to name it The Mountain Store after the Tarzana shop but decided to be very original and call it the Mountain Shop.
Curt's story about Laurie's store is accurate. After it closed I lost touch with Laurie and never heard anything about her or from her....until a month ago. She is in Army Intelligence and has served 2 tours in Iraq and 2 in Afghanistan.
Fun to think about all those great times we had...and thanks to mad dog for telling me about this post. Right now I'm in Australia on my sailboat Tenaya. Later this year we will head for Indonesia and Africa..
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 11, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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Did Stoney get any rain from this last storm that blew thru? Tempted to get out there on Sat. if it stayed dry. If not, the garage needs cleaning...
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Katiekorn
Boulder climber
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Jan 12, 2013 - 09:55am PT
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It stayed dry. I do believe there will be a good amount of traffic there this weekend.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
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Nice, warm, windy and dry day today in Chatsworth.
It will be nice.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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My buddy Warren from Van Nuys posted on Facebook this morning: "Shorts weather! :))"
Enjoy!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 17, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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...is not Berkeley enough and doesn't give a damn.
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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Jan 17, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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the nightlight will be on and burning late tonight.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 22, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
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Time to jam out from work....
T-shirt and shorts....
I hope this santa anna keeps up for a few more days.
edit to add... to dark to climb at 5:45
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Jan 22, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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Did you take a camera? :>)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:14am PT
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Dan.... no I only own a I-phone... it needs sunshine.
When Frummy gets back from his ez-rider vacation to New Orleans he can post pics....
Good crew last nite, it was nice and warm in till about 8.
I still can't get use to headlamp bouldering...
I can't get my finely tuned/adjusted sense of balance going cause I can't find the horizon....
A Stoney Point Photo.... from days of future past.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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guyman has waugh and his bro been hang'n round stoney?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 23, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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I have not seen him.....
but I get there after 5 pm.
By then all the retired folks have gone home to drink warm milk.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
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I get there earlier and have not seen Mike. It's been a while since I've seen him, probably out sailing/biking the world in between cruzing 5.11R and calling it 5.10 max.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 25, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
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^^^^
yeah bitches no climbing...
seems to me like thee are more broken holds this year than most others...and it happens because people climb too soon after the rain. Even if a hold doesn't break it will still flex and weaken, shortening it's lifespan. Please avoid climbs that have small flakes if it's at all damp out. Go run laps on 3 pigs, pump traverse...ya know...stuff that wouldn't break even if you climbed it while it's rainin!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Jan 25, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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Don't worry, while it is nice and wet and soft on Sunday morning I will be chiselling those broken holds back into place.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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So many new climbers without a clue. Hope someone is saying something to them while I'm away. Not that it does much good, it's the principal. I hate being the Stoney Point police, but I'm good at it. & a little help from my friends would be appreciated.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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Jan bob said it was okay for us to make better holds. LOl! :)
frumy have fun and stay safe.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 27, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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We miss u @ stoney Mark! We'll cheers to a safe journey upon your return.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jan 29, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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Mardi gras parades with Molly.
Sol always the perfect gentleman.
For those of you that know Molly - well she hasn't killed anything yet.
We took her to Krewe of Barkus a parade for dogs. Thousands of dog everywhere & she was a good girl. I know that's hard to believe, but true.
I'm itching to boulder with good friends.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Yah all asleep.
I miss that dirt pile --- someone post up some pic.
There maybe no place to climb here but they do have drive through bars.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Thanks Matt.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Hey Mark! Hope you're having a great time! Miss you at Stoney...Well, I just miss Stoney in general. Hoping to get back to climbing more again soon.
In the meantime...Attention climbers: some of you have heard the word about noSima chalk bags. It's still a work in progress, but it would be greatly appreciated if you could show our Facebook page some love! I've made a bunch of cool chalk bags and tees. Taking customized requests for bags too...
Thanks in advance!
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:30am PT
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 18, 2013 - 12:55am PT
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It's about time there's more Stoney posts. I'll check out those chaulk bags. That's a good name too NoSima - Chatsworth too - I hear there's some kind of power spot there.
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WT
Trad climber
Corvalllis, OR
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Feb 18, 2013 - 03:10am PT
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Thanks so much for posting up pics of Stoney. I started climbing there in 1987. And it still looks RAD! Living in Oregon keeps me from after work laps on Boulder 1 and Turlock. I remember climbing with Johnny Woodward, John Long and may Lynn Hill (I might be making that up, I can't remember). Hey folks, remember when bouldering pads were just thin carpet remnants from Carpet Time? Does it still smell like horse manure on warm summer days?
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:13am PT
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Missin' the stoney crew and more importantly the stoney circuit these days. Cheers from Flagstaff y'all!
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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Feb 18, 2013 - 11:48am PT
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Hey folks, remember when bouldering pads were just thin carpet remnants from Carpet Time? Does it still smell like horse manure on warm summer days?
Yup
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 18, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
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Hi, was a great weekend at Stoney.
Warm weather has returned, for a day or so, and the young guns are hard at it...
Jah and AJ ... real names, I might have butchered the spelling....
Both fired the Yabo Mantle after a year or so of trying.
Big smiles all around.
and I even fired off a few... before it got dark.
Spencer.... I found your SoCal bouldering book.... the one by Dr. F
it was laying on the ground at Horse Flat... no lie.
That is a good excuse to blast out of Flag and come home.
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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Feb 19, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
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GUY, it was JAH and AJ who handled that beast of a mantle, however I did make progress on it (actually got to the holds!)..slow but its coming along quite nice. awesome weekend!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Feb 19, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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It's raining now so please stay away from Stoney for a while!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 19, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
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Yes... One never wants a angry Gnome after them.....
And Mo... thanks for the correction. Your next.
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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Feb 19, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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this rain is going to clean up that greased up mantle good for my send ;) definitely going down sooon! as soon as its dry anyway..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 19, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Please Mr. wizard I want to go home. Even if it's raining. I promise I won't boulder till Stoney's dry.
Saw Sister Sheila the nun today (she's 80+), at St. Mary of the Woods here in Indiana.
High of 25 - wind steady 25 mph.
Heading south in the morning.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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be sure to let the rock to dry!
:)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 20, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
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be sure to let the rock to dry!
Rock??
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 20, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
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Gimme time for a come-back line. (this could take awhile)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 20, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
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I'm bored, so I'll jump in.
Sandstone - sedimentary rock -- loosely speaking.
Pyro knows more about rocks then I do.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 23, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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I wonder what happened to Pete, after he moved to Utah, sort of lost track of him. Anybody know?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 23, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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What's that truck doing there?!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 23, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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I think Peter is still in Utah sewing. Misa probably knows.
Fat Dad what you never parked at Turlock before?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 23, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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I remember parking behind Turlock behind the fence. That's as close as I can remember parking.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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I remember in the 90's me and my twin were all into this thing called speed. so one night we drove into stoney and bouldered just like the ole' timers. we were too spun to remember the camera.
keep the pic's flow'n guyman!
p.s. ksolem it's a rock!!!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 24, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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Rock??
If it falls apart in the rain that's a stretch calling it rock.
Juss' sayin'...
;-)
This here is a rock:
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Feb 24, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
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That there is a monolith. Stoney is just a little pile of rocks.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 24, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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Of all the famous launch pads of the world like Cape Kennedy, the Baikanor Cosmodrome, Stoney Point.........Stoney Point is my favorite.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 24, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
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McHale, when you blasted off it was on the above rock. Stoney point is more like a lunch pad.
But don't mind me, I'm just trying to have some fun. I'll be back at stoney soon enough, lunching and launching.
I do love the line from the "Entering The Park" section in the old John Sherman guide to Hueco Tanks:
"As you approach Hueco Tanks from the south, your first glimpse of the rocks will be disappointing, unless you're from Stoney Point."
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Feb 24, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
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Say what you will about Stoney, I'll bet that place has produced more fun per square inch than any other rock venue in SoCal. Great to see that photo of Peter. I remember him as an outstanding climber and really nice guy. Would love to see more photos of the 70s being posted. It seems like nobody carried a camera in "those days."
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 24, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
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I'll post more one of these days. The Stoney Point budget is limited. I found a pic of an interesting mantle I used to do that overhangs the road on the way to the back side. To top it off, my step-dad is wearing a halibut hat in the photo! Unfortunately, I'm not doing the mantle in the photo.
As you approach Hueco Tanks from the south, your first glimpse of the rocks will be disappointing, unless you're from Stoney Point."
That's pretty funny. Love the one you're with I say! Who was it that said "Life is like a Lunch Box - you never know what yer gonna get." The climbing at Stoney is real, and beats any gym on the planet. It's got all the imperfections that go with the real thing.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Feb 24, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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http://stoneypointdocumentary.com/
I have these on sale for $20. 00 Help out Cole Gibson...You get the Stoney point Documentary and the Bachar-Yerian movie.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 24, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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^^^^^^^
Kris that is a fricken nice photo.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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incredible shot ksolem. WOW!
winter send of any route at needle's is proud.
nice nice!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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If I'm pasted the blizzards & I think I am. & my back improves at all --- SUNDAY AT STONEY FOR ME.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 26, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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DOnt know if I'll catch you Mark. I hurt my right calf last weekend bouldering - landing of course. hope it heals up quick and I can comeback to stoney :{
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 26, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
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Mark... GF + L ??????
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Yep.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 27, 2013 - 09:53am PT
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Fun...
be safe driving home...
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Thursday at Stoney. The largest crew I've seen in a while. Lots of familiar faces. I missed these guys.
The days are getting longer and warmer again. Everybody's crushing. I think this is going to be a good spring/summer for Stoney.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Check out Guy!Is he really part of the spot team?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sam didn't need a spot...
We were just offering up a toast.... to climbing.
Thank God the weather is starting to get nice and the sun is staying out later...
Another season starts....
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Rad Pic. Send energy! I had no idea that was going on behind me.
Rain on the way. possibly tonight. I'll be there later. come get some sandstone lovin' before it gets wet! Then STAY OFF THE ROCK until it dries. thanks.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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"Sandstone Love..."
I think you just named your next new problem.
Or someone's new porn flick...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Every one knows that tons of porn is made at SP...
So Kris that would be Sandstone Love: part VIX.
Dingus.... Yes I do know what you mean, but the gay version was Sandstone Love: part deux.
Dingus I hope your going to get some climbing in soon, next time your flying over the point.... bail out and spend the day pulling on some of the best choss to ever get chalked.
Good news... It did not rain, as predicted, last nite.
Watch this topic for more updates.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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UPDATE:
Climbing at stoney is gud, but the community is even better!
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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thirsty thursday at the point
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Light rain last nite...
The ground is dry and the sun is trying to shine.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 12, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
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First Tuesday during daylight savings time, the temps are up, the grass is really green and livin is good.
I will be at SCHOOL tonite, but I will see you all on Thursday...
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Mar 13, 2013 - 03:03am PT
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Huge crowd at Stoney today! Loved the energy. So thankful for daylight savings time :) It was great seeing everybody.
Also, if any of you find a blue Nalgene water bottle with Patagonia & noSima stickers on it, that sucker is mine!! Please let me know. Thanks :)
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 14, 2013 - 10:55am PT
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Come out for Thursday Session! Get strong for the season!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 14, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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Looks like fun! maybe I'll grab 15 or 20 friends and head down. LOL
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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And Kenny....don't forget the BBQ and the Beer!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
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bump for the Dyno!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 17, 2013 - 01:10am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 17, 2013 - 01:16am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 17, 2013 - 11:10am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:11am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:20am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:23am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 18, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 18, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 18, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 18, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 19, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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Its Tuesday....
Maybe he will show up and show up the kids.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 19, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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1600..... now.
Even at 60 you can still have fun.
Spring Time at Stoney Point
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 19, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 19, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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Nice shots dudes. I think this is the nicest time of year for Stoney. Not too hot. Green hillsides. Flowers in bloom. Not a lot of flies from the stables next door. I was out there with the kids a few weeks back, more exploring canyons and caves than bouldering (but some of the latter of course), and it was just really nice.
Must drag the kids out there again before everything wilts.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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thank's Yafer for the pictures of stoney point.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 25, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 25, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 26, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Mar 31, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
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Raining out there today??? Where is the update Pyro???
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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This is when she gets hit the hardest. Sunny to morrow but rained hard 2day
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 11, 2013 - 11:20am PT
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It's nice and dry.....
City Crews, yes a crew of city workers, were doing something to the HISTORICAL STONEY POINT SIGN.....
I wonder what is up.....?????
We will know later today.
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
portland, Maine
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Apr 11, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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Their putting up a For Sale sign!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
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maybe they can put a camera on the new sign in which we can all get a live updates 24/7 :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
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STONEY WEB CAM..
love the idea.
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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Apr 11, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
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What did they do to the sign?! Whoever snags that one is a lucky son of a b*tch!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Apr 13, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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New sign....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 14, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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Yeah great. L.A. is rapidly on the way to being the first of America's biggest cities to go bankrupt, but they have the funds to replace the classic Stoney Point sign. Gotta wonder what that cost. Stupid and arrogant beyond belief!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Apr 14, 2013 - 03:45am PT
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Oh come on - it's a nice sign. :>)
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Apr 14, 2013 - 04:17am PT
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I would kill for the old sign!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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Never even thought about ripp'nit should have. Thanks for the new ugly sign..
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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Apr 14, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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The old sign belongs in some sort of climbing history museum.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Apr 14, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
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At placerita canyon park I noticed a new sign as well. They have also done extensive trail maintaince on paths that were perfectly fine. Many rock barriers were created to stop bikers from speeding (bikes have never been a big issue on that path). Plus those rocks get in the way of trail running and even a group of people walking must break formation to go through the barriers single file. I agree with Kris. Waste of money
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Apr 14, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
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OK - I'll cave - the new sign sucks - it did not need to be replaced. The damn busy bodies never stop!
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BlueWing
Mountain climber
SCV, Ca
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Front Wall action last Saturday ...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
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great pictures. glad u had fun.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The sun is trying to shine......
BlueWing... nice pics, a fun climb that never goes out of style.
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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yep ...I am slowly getting my climbing back ... been away for a life time ... wondering WTF took me so long to rtn. Anyway, the s-crack has been on my bucket list, and I got that done on Saturday. I have to say that I did stop to take in the moment as I topped out. It was pretty good to rtn to that spot, hangin' off the wall like that, after so many, many years.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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So BlueWing, how long were you out of it??????
I took a 7 year leave, when I came back I was like 60 lbs out of shape....
took Two years before I could float again.
Good luck
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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It's been about 20+ yrs or so.
Last time I was climbing a lot was
about '85 I think.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Good- deal, come on out.... introduce your face.
Tues- Thurs.... and any other time.
Stoney rocks
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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I might be there tomorrow afternoon.
I think I've said hi to you before.
I started climbing again about a year ago.
Mostly Sat mornings ... maybe 2x a month.
Getting better was slow at first, but my
confidence is coming back quickly now.
I never was and never will be really good,
but I always have fun.
And, yep, I agree ... Stoney Rocks
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Ha.... Your Kid looks like all the other Kids climbing out there... there are about 50 new faces this season.... and all the young ones look the same to me.
Its hard to remember all the names and faces, unless I go climbing with them.
And yes I do recall meeting you, but I couldn't pick you out in a lineup.....
Hope to see you soon.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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So tights are back?? Awesome.
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Yeah, that's another thing I like about Stoney ...
There's always something going on ...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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So tights are back?? Awesome.
Yes Kris, but only if you are a woman.
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The Fist
Trad climber
reno,nv
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May 20, 2013 - 12:51am PT
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So many memories of decades gone by. Stoney Point-- the reason I dropped out of high school in '79.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 22, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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Right out of 1979.....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2013 - 01:04am PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
dR F you have alot of time on ur hands! thank's for posting tose pic's.
photo taken on hike to Sunset Stone's 1980.
last picture features from left to right
Dan Scdoris "HDM", Robert Carrere"MIMM's", Banny Root "Jim May", Dave Katz Bob Gaines, Charlie Pederson
P.S. Dr F your Southern California guide book is full of mistakes in the Santa Monica Mtn section. never checked with the local's i'm told. enjoy the Hot Tub.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
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Katz was never contacted by you and never sent any pictures to you. I just spoke to him.
Dr f have you gone off the rails..
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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Dr F , Craig Fry, i would not be bragging about your Southern Cali Bouldering Guide. From a locals point of view it clearly shows you were greedy, and complacent. The information in this guide shows a lack of experience climbing in the Stoney Point and Santa monica mountains.
also you pointed the finger in your earlier posts that you relied on 2nd hand info and then published botched information for the climbing community.
Now REPENT FOR YOUR SINS and stop deleting posts
Is it true you no longer climb, WHat happened DR F?????
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 24, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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Dr f your small world is imploding!
Lol!
:-)
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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May 25, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Really!
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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May 25, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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Catfight!!!
Quick ... Someone post some boobs!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 25, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
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Man we are tough on our own.
Dr. F did his best & yet we complain.
Guides are hard (time consuming) to put together & easy to complain about.
& I'm good about complaining.
It's amazing to me how we as climbers talk about each other.
We are climbers --- we are self center idiots. Some nice - some not so nice.
There is nothing important about climbing.
That's one of the things that is great about climbing.
Because someone can climb a big # SO. I'm glad for them.
Yabo once said to me that he had more respect for a person that worked & raised a family & could climb 10a, than for some hot shot that climbed hard & could not be polite.
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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May 25, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
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I have an idea!
Since Dr. F and Mister E have both written guide books, it must be easy, right? It is your turn Pyro. Let's see you write a good one.
Do it and hey, you might earn some really good money and prove a point all in one!
AFS
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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May 25, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
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Surely there's something interesting going on at Stoney. How about some nice current photos of.....just about anything STONEY.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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May 25, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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Yeah, and how about some photos from back in the day... always wondered what happened to folks like M. Zotto, Bill, Stan, P. Cowan, Fish, M. Jaffe and many more whose names are no longer in my memory banks... geez I wish I'd taken some pictures. Too much fun to argue out there!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 25, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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Stoney stuck in the age of disco.
Back around 89 - 90 Jaffe had a kid & his wife would not let him out anymore.
Bob Yoho's behavior at a party of climbers when the kid was about 6 weeks old might have something to do with Jaffe not being let out around any of us ever again. The look of shock on that woman's face. They left shortly there after & I haven't seen Jaffe since.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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May 25, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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That's the way I tend to party. Someday I'll have to go back to Stoney and complete my RCS card.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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frumy wrote:Yabo once said to me that he had more respect for a person that worked & raised a family & could climb 10a, than for some hot shot that climbed hard & could not be polite.
frumy yabo was right! quality vs quanity.
i'd rather read a small print-out guide which is accurate vs some page after page of boched up information guide book!
also: if i was a guide book author toward stoney i'd put Boodawg on the front cover!
p.s Dr F this is the best line i've heard all day!
dr F wrote:Here is my advice, don't use my guide, Throw it away, Use the Katz guide and the other Stoney guide. They are way better for you locals.
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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May 26, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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Pyro, the current published stoney guide has its fair share of mistakes. Wouldn't you rather spend your time giving that guy sh#t since all the gym rats at The Point carry that around and spray wrong info...
Or better yet, get to top roping those creekside choss piles per usual. YOU ARE RUINING YOUR ONLY GOOD (a personal favorite) THREAD DAMNIT!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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spenser wrote: YOU ARE RUINING YOUR ONLY GOOD (a personal favorite) THREAD DAMNIT!
what about the hand thread?
dr F was happy about that thread..
trust me dude the guys from yosemite would give DR F an F.
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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May 26, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Still talking, but not actually daring to write a guide book. Enough said.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 26, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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Mchale Great pic. of rcs card -- i've gone nuts looking for my old card -- not as old as yours.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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spencer wrotePyro, the current published stoney guide has its fair share of mistakes this is the owen guide right?
it does have a few mistakes but at least he's been in contact via email and has met up with locals to adjust then perfect the stoney guide. chris owen gives credit to the F.A because he adjusted the ken boche death route which is coming out in the next edition.
the hellwig guide was pretty good also!
P.S i would wright a guide but I feel the right people's need to write the guide of all guide books about Stoney's culture and historical value.
i nominate WAUGH!
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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May 26, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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Write, no wright... Wright is a name.
Pyro, You are a good man but... Just like spelling, writing a guide isn't as easy as it sounds. Don't criticize others for something YOU haven't accomplished yourself. Lots of people can judge, make noise, but few can actually pull it off, show others how to do it. If you can't do it yourself, don't criticize others for trying. By doing that, no one is going to ever accomplish anything worth keeping since the world is against them.
Now as a climber, you can rock it. Please stick to that. Shove it in their face that they can't follow you, that you can go higher, faster, smoother than most. Just please leave the anger behind. It isn't worth it.
Writing a guidebook is so much work. It's really hard not to make a mistake. Especially about sandstone that is ever changing.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 27, 2013 - 02:45am PT
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To broken to climb, yet it was still a nice day at the Point.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 27, 2013 - 11:36am PT
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Da-Meat
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2013 - 11:38am PT
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Dr F i did not think you were going to be so butt hurt over my "guide book customer comment". your a loud mouth commie! stop sending ur commie counterparts to rescue you from this disaster of a guide book.
mugu rock is spelled mugu not mogu... :)
a guide book will come out for stoney and i gotta believe all beta will be true not imagined..
cozzy i sent u a text.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 27, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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wtfis it raining or something.
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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May 27, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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So... How about them Dodgers?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 27, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Weather's looking up.
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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May 27, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
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The Dogs of Stoney Point ...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 27, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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May 28, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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I really like doggies. Actually LOVE 'em!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 28, 2013 - 11:19am PT
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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May 28, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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:)
My well used copy has guided me on untold adventures and has served me well...thanks Dr F!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 29, 2013 - 01:31am PT
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Rokki the rockette gives her stamp of approval.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 29, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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Good dogs get petted & put out in the yard --- Stoney Point dogs go everywhere.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 29, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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May 29, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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That evil trench next to Turlock broke my ankle. I remember when it was farther away and Turlock's backside use to have nice flat ground. I do miss that. I also remember it shifting after the Northridge Earthquake. Part of the ever changing choss pile we call Stoney and yes... I loved it there too. That's when Kamps showed up, saw it had moved and grinned. He had a whole new set of problems. That man was awesome.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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May 29, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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YO DUDES!! OLD SCHOLL WEENIE ROAST THIS THURSDAY!!!
I'm planning on coming by Stoney tomorrow afternoon on my way up to Ojai. And since I want to see all my bros I'm going to bring the BBQ and some hot dogs!
Been ages since I climbed at The Point and I can friggin' wait! Respond here if you can bring any supplies and let's make this a kick ass BBQ!
Also, I'll have a box of Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag dvd's which I'll be selling for $20 a pop so bring some cash!
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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May 29, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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1982
Nice write up on Royal and Yvon and how they got started.
Curious did anyone of you guys or ladies walk, opps sorry run and I mean run end to end in the tunnel when you saw the train light and being in the middle of it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 29, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
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Curious did anyone of you guys or ladies walk, opps sorry run and I mean run end to end in the tunnel when you saw the train light and being in the middle of it.
The rad thing to do is to hide in the little "cut outs" along the side and let the "CoastLiner" go by at 55......
Cole .... see you Thursday
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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May 29, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
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Guyman
True, but there was a time two of us did not hear usually the vacuum would be a dead giveaway but this time there was no way to make it so we had to drop in water trench. The rails are about one foot higher, trench being used for water to flow downhill. You could see the sparks hitting the walls from loose straps and cables. Most likely cut you in half or have a bad headache at least. Would happen a few times until the conductors would call the police but every time everyone knew where to hide.
Days of drinking and smoking.
Nice to hear one of the group
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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May 29, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
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Since it's not captioned, I gotta give a shout-out to my old buddy Al Stone, hangin' out there on the cover of Paul's old Stoney guidebook!
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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May 29, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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Al Stone:
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 29, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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Lost..... Stoney is the same as it has always been...
Only the faces change.
Have you watched the cool video Cole made???
It captures the sprit of the place.
Climbing, Smoking and Drinking.... the climbers way.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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May 29, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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That evil trench next to Turlock broke my ankle. I remember when it was farther away and Turlock's backside use to have nice flat ground.
yeah, I remember that too. it added exposure to the problems.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 29, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
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That evil trench next to Turlock broke my ankle. I remember when it was farther away and Turlock's backside use to have nice flat ground.
yeah, I remember that too. it added exposure to the problems.
The "evil trench".... is now huge.
The ground is getting washed away, quickley, the exposure is now huge....
much more than like 5 years ago.
Also I think the Northridge Quake changed the angle of the overhanging side, after the shaking stopped, there was a large trench around the whole thing - except on the overhanging side, that was closed up tight.
Someday that thing is going to roll over.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
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As compared to a movie critic a guide book critic is entitled to one's own opinion's.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 29, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
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When they built the houses on the southeast of Trulock they changed the drainage.
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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May 29, 2013 - 08:33pm PT
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So...
On another note, is there any old/new projects developing into something different? As holds break, things shift, etc? I know Stoney is a very dynamic place. What's the latest greatest people are working with, on, or around this season?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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May 29, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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"YO DUDES!! OLD SCHOLL WEENIE ROAST THIS THURSDAY!!!"
SWEEEEEET!!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 29, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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^^^^ That be the newest thing. ^^^^^
Stoney is ever evolving, things are always changing a little at a time
And sometimes a lot in one milli second.
At the same time it never changes.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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May 29, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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I think the houses were there before the trench. Seems to me that the late eighties had some wet winters that consequently created the trench.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 29, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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No the house came after. We used to park back at Turlock behind the Eucalyptus trees.
I've dug up many arrowheads & other tools where the houses now stand.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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May 30, 2013 - 02:15am PT
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DMT - Thanks a lot for the kind remarks about the Stoney Point movie. Lord knows it was a labor of love and it's always nice to hear about someone watching it and enjoying it. Thanks for sharing it as well!
In case anyone else is interested in the Stoney Point movie:
http://stoneypointdocumentary.com/
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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May 30, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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BBQ bump!
BBQ this afternoon at the Point. Bring some food!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Bump! Ill bring some beer along with fresh zam ice..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 30, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
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Will that be Hockey Ice????
Or Figure Skater Ice?????
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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May 30, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
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Ice should be red if Hockey Ice ...
just a guess ... eh?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 31, 2013 - 12:28am PT
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That's why my dogs love drinking out of pyro's zam ice bucket.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 31, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
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Any BBQ pic.?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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May 31, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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I could hardly believe how many people were at Stony Piont last evening! There must've been at least 65 people there. I saw several people who rarely visit Stony Point. Tripper Jack Marshall, Dave Katz & many others were there who oI have seldome seen out there. TJM told me he hadn't been to SP in at least 25 years. Good fun.
Who's gonna post up some photos of the fun. I saw cameras so I know there are photos.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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May 31, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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Good crowd
I even saw Levy there...
Blue
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
great evening running into the biggest crowd i'd seen in a while.
sorry for the delay ran outta time and had to work/surf.
Jack Marshall "Tripper jack" had not touched stoney point sandstone in 25yrs!!! My guess is three kid's along with years of developing new area's is what kept him away from Stoney for twenty-five years.
Spiral traverse is always happen'n.
cole say'n hello Micheal Reardon style!
Nice! Nice! Nice!
look some Free-soloist!
just kidd'n that's david Kat'z one of the founding father's of Tunnel boulders, Purple stone's, climb's somewhere in the Santa Monica mtn's and Malibu Creek.
Good crowd.
Cheers!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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last but not least is Tfish!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 31, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Holy cow, that's a lot of people. Wish I could join but the drive from the Westside would be GRIM.
On a seperate note, Jack's original nickname was "Jack Tripper", because he kind of looked like the John Ritter character on Three's Company. I think it was either the Nabolsi or Bob Critchfield (wherever he went) who coined it first. Odd how it evolved into the cooler sounding "Tripper Jack".
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 31, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
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Fat Dad - nothing starts happening till after 6 & as you can see, TFish's day doesn't seem to start till the sun goes down.
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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Looks more like a social event.
Oh Yea it's Stoney.
Glad to see some of the old crowd.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jeff --- The northern tip of Stoney Point ( Church Dome ).
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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You got that right.
Hope all is well with you
Troop 324 what a great time.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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That holds off
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Dude Sam, missed you at the BBQ bro! When you coming out for some summer Jtree action??
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Cole when are you coming home? Have the two of you become desert rats?
rSin ---Yes.
It's not the 180 degree spin, but Mikey makes it work.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 15, 2013 - 11:43am PT
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That's too funny.
Glad Cole put that in the S.P. documentary .
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 28, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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anybody alive out there?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jun 28, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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Still alive and kickin. Could use a nice bouldering place close by.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 28, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
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Mark... we have missed you.
It was not all that hot last Thursday... the breeze picked up about 5, we stayed and climbed till about 10:30.... it was nice.
McHale .... did you know that the "McHale Overhang" is one of the most coveted problem at Stony... still- after, what, 42 years?
When you gona come on down????
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 28, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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Sorry Guy, it's my back. I'm slowly getting better -- really slowly.
McHale there is a lot of interest in the history of the point. Several of the young guns would love to talk to you.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jun 28, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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What is the McHale overhang? Is it on Rock 2 or is it a mantle somewhere? I better keep training! Post a pic of somebody doing it pretty please. Maybe it's that ceiling under-cling I mentioned pages ago?
You know, I was going to challenge Largo to a bouldering contest that would take place while he still had his cast on. I think it's too late now.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Get well Mark!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
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Post a pic of somebody doing it pretty please
i'll go pro it for u dan just give me some time!!
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Katiekorn
Sport climber
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Hey Pyro, any chance of top rope Tuesdays happening again? I've heard rumors that in years past, you used to set up top ropes at Stoney...
Would be awesome if they did
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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beer
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Ice chest full....
Hooth... ya coming out?????
sea breeze is starting....
it will only be 88
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jul 11, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
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light rain out here at the beach. what say you valley dwellers? will Stoney be dry enough to climb this afternoon?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
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Jul 11, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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Light rain here in Chatsworth too. Rained pretty good last night. I would say if it doesn't rain much it could be one of those really sticky nights where you can do almost any problem.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
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Jul 11, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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Looking like a prime bouldering evening here at the Point.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 11, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
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Looking like a prime bouldering evening here at the Point
...It would be nice to see you.
And its pretty cool, to boot.
A VALLEY transplant was there last Tuesday, Kieth from the Valley, at the end of the day, some kids were lost... they called 911 and 96 showed up in force. The LAPD showed up and tooled the lot of us, for Beer, Post-dark presence etc.... Kieth handled it like a pro, the Valley teaches you how to deal with the tools.
The one cop was really stearn with me.... he kept asking, "you smell like beer... you going to drive????" To whitch I answered: "No, I am going to climb"
Cop: "how can you hike at nite??"
ME: "headlamp, and we are climbing not hiking"
we went round and round for about 20 min, he wanted me to get in my car and drive away, by threatining to have my car towed away.... I'm no fool, the DUI fine is about $10,000 now, and the tow away is $300....quick math.
See youall out there later.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
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Katie i sent you a PM. yeah lets hook it up!
guyman what the f*#k is going on out there? cop's at night sh#t waiting for you to drive?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 15, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
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TH .... LOL.
No not really, I never try to piss them off. Just digs one a deeper hole.
I really do try and be respectful to officers.
But I know I don't need to admit to anything.
I know I could have passed the blow test... been there done that.
".06 baby, now can I go home????????"
I mean we had one 12 pack PBR split 3 ways over 4 hours....
Pyro.... they were there to "rescue" some lost hikers.
The FD really did the Search and Rescue.
The COPS were there to protect the FD from the "people hiking around in the dark" ... only thing - the COPS will not walk down the hill without some backup.... Like a pair of Helos and a "Full Up Hummer"
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 15, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
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Tad....
with age- comes some wisdom.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2013 - 01:48am PT
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Lost hikers at stoney point! Wtf the entire place is one meter by one meter..
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
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Temp's were in the mid-90's today! Top-rope's were set up at Maggie's area.
Johnny say's "time for katie to climb hard"!
Katie just started climbing about a year or so ago!
nice work!
we climbed into the evening where it had kooled off / traffic let up.
look's like it's snow'n.
cya around!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 19, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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I'd like to boulder with Obama here at Stoney.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 19, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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I'd like to boulder with Obama here at Stoney.
+1, down with that...
Stony welcomes all who wish to learn the secrets of the stone
This years crew has many good young motivated climbers
So 40 years later it's great to see nice folks who love it like I do
class of 2013
see ya
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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guyman good to see the crew climbing around stoney. this week i'll be ocean bound. tell kate and johnny set up will happen the following weekend! :)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 22, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
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One more year & she owns the place.
Katie, is one of those people over the years that makes going to Stoney special.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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frumy hope all is well. i always love it when people go to stoney to learn how to rock climb! stoney is the place to learn!
hope to cya soon
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Climbnrok
Trad climber
LA
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Jul 22, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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Did Stoney get much rain last night?
We need a new "Stoney Point IS CLOSED" picture with the new sign.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 22, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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It's dry now...
greasy stone today
the humidy sure blows
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2013 - 11:19am PT
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farouk ur rad!
heat wave moving it's way in stay kool out there.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jul 23, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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Check out this sweet Reebok commercial filmed at Stoney Point. They even push the summit boulder over!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jul 24, 2013 - 10:16am PT
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Really good group of folks out yesterday.
I was wondering what happen to the summit boulder.
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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Jul 24, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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1) i wish i made it special for the frumster
2)i will have a harness in my bag always for any night top rope session ever. the pics look great
3) i booked rampage jackson and demarcus wares doubles for that reebok commercial. the athletes did about 5 shots over the course of an hour and the doubles spent 10 hours doing all the real work .. sad
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Xavodor
Boulder climber
Ca
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Jul 27, 2013 - 12:01am PT
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My first post:D
STONEY AT NIGHT.
climbs are:
+ Johnson arete/
+Dynamic duo.(spicy as always)
+Aftershock.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jul 27, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Nice pictures Xavoder!
This was from the last weenie roast:
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jul 27, 2013 - 01:30am PT
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Had an absolute blast hanging with the old and new crew yesterday! Hope to see you all again soon.
Hooth - that's a hilarious insight to that commercial. I guess that's just the way Hollywood works, who would have thought?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
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thank's cole funny pic.
love the night shot's. xavador! :)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 27, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
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Cole good to see you. X great pictures - 5 star.
hooth - thanks for the info.
Fun bouldering Thur.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 29, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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Weekday evening trips to Stoney - good cure for the summertime blues.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jul 29, 2013 - 12:39am PT
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The Stoney Point thread is getting hot!
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Katiekorn
Sport climber
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Jul 29, 2013 - 01:59am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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thank's for bumping the stoney thread with the happy climber pic's!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 31, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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X- great shots, have fun in South America....Thanks for donating your pad collection to the tribe, they will get used.
Stoney will welcome you back, like it has to all of us.
Pyro.... TR's this thursday?????
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Up Thread someone was talking about Mike Jaffe....
1979... homemade shoes, even.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Another...
Love the old school tagging
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Simpler times, looking south...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
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good times to be had at the point.
simple yet kinda complex top rope set up ontop of Beethoven's on thursday.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
the crowd!
climber chicks with classic "stink-bug" slabbing!
passer bye rob and his friend brian had to try the Prow!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
the clown!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
we climbed into the dark.
cheers to all!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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PYRO, classic.
Sorry I missed Thursday. Got my last shot in the back & am now home in Bishop, headed to Tuolumne till Sept.
Like a teenage love affair ( with Stoney ) I'll see you in sept.
Now how stupid is this, I'm on my way to Tuolumne Meadows ( for at least a month ) & I'm missing Stoney Point.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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good luck to you frumy! have fun in the meadows. say hi to waugh!
green rode smooth the past couple day's..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Thanks Pyro, take care.
Guy, really nice pictures. I didn't recognize Mike at first --- but the shoes are so him.
Jaffe could piss you off at times, but he had great foot technic.
More than once he pulled me off a bouldering problem by my foot, cause I placed it not to his liking.
He is why my shoes last a long time.
Ball of foot - heel down.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Found this on the web and thought it was interesting. Stoney Point sandstone played a role in the history of southern California as a building material for the San Pedro breakwater and a bunch of buildings. The quarry is located west of Topanga Canyon blvd. in Chatsworth Park near the train tunnel. Check it out...
http://quarriesandbeyond.org/states/ca/quarry_photo/ca-los_angeles_photos.html
"Chatsworth Park Quarry: (see Bulletin 38, p. 128). This property comprises 160 acres in Sec. 13, T. 2 N., R. 17 W., S. B. M. It is about 1 ½ miles west of Chatsworth station, on the Southern Pacific Railroad and was formerly connected by a spur track with the main road. The locality is at the northeast end of the Simi Hills, a rugged range of sandstone strata, folded and faulted, their dip being plainly visible from the southward.
"The stone of the quarry is arkose or feldspathic sandstone, rather fine-grained and heavily bedded. When fresh it is bluish-gray, but near the surface it weathers to a tawny color. This weathering extends to an irregular depth, but the demarcation between the weathered and fresh stone is very distinct. It is said, that when quarried for dimension stone, it can be split regularly along the run, but that when quarried for large blocks, as done for the substructure of the San Pedro breakwater, it breaks along uneven surfaces. As shown by some samples it usually resists exposure to the atmosphere in a satisfactory manner.
"Near Garavanza, on N. Avenue 64, is the Church of the Angeles, built in 1887, of the tawny-colored stone, which as yet shows no signs of deterioration (circa 1915).
"In Los Angeles, corner of Fifth and Hill streets, is the house of the California Club, built of an olive-gray stone from the Chatsworth Quarry, but much stained by the leaching of soluble salts. Christ Episcopal Church, corner Twelfth and Flower streets, Los Angeles, is constructed of Chatsworth sandstone and also the city police station and jail on First Street, near Hill, and the Southern California Edison Company's building, East Fourth Street, near Main. A few private residences also have been built of this stone. At the shore end of the Southern Pacific Railroad pier at Santa Monica, some of this stone was used for rip-rap. Below high water level, where kept moistened by seawater, it remains quite hard, but above high-water mark, the exposed stone is rather soft and somewhat disintegrated.
"The geologic age of the rock in this quarry is Upper Cretaceous or Chico, as mapped on Plate III of the folio accompanying Bulletin No. 69 of the State Mining Bureau.
"The quarry was opened by the California Construction Company, which (about 1900) took the contract for building the San Pedro breakwater. At present the property is held by the Los Angeles Trust and Savings Bank as trustees for creditors of the California Construction Company, which has forfeited its corporate rights through nonpayment of taxes, but it is now represented by the president, W. N. Hamaker, care of First National Bank, Los Angeles.
"No rock has been quarried here for years, the quarry having been dismantled and its equipment and spur track removed.
"Judging from examples of this sandstone in use, it is an important building stone, and it is to be hoped that the quarry may again be opened."
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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rincon, nice piece of history.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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that's funny rob cuzz i was just about to show the people were and how to get to it! good piece of history right there..
great place to hang/slack line but watch for the homless and homies.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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He and Rocky would have had a great time run down the who do at Stoney.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apparently most of the Stoney Pointers are camped in Tuolumne Meadows.
Life is good.
Jeff what happened to Lions head?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Not everyone Mark. A few of us went to the valley.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Well we all seem to be in Yosemite.
All roads lead from Stoney.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Matty.... good going on 1/2 Dome....
Mammoth is nice right now, too.
See ya all Tuesday
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Hope he's doing well in dog heaven.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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good on you matty for climb'n the dome. would love to head out to meadows this year but got's too many surf spots to visit instead. cya at the point. if i set up the three sisters would guyman come? or should i set up the roof rock area?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 19, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Is anybody still living in socal?
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Aug 20, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Greetings from Holcomb Pinnacles near Big Bear
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 22, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 25, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
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Another one has left the Stoney Point Nursery.....
A TM classic
Sure is slick
Might as well keep going.
Katie, has joined the list of real climbers, she lead this one and hauled Jenni and Steve up....
Way to go.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Aug 26, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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From a few nights ago...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 28, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
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Top rope with Pyro.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 28, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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Top rope with Pyro.
WTF????
Are you loosin it???
Pretty hot sun in Bishop, this time of year.
I think the Thursdays TR sesh is going to be at sculpture crack.
Thats the rumor anyway.
Hope to see you Mark
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 28, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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You'll see. Even up here I can see for miles & miles.
Of course it helps that Pyro told me that he was setting up today.
I have been wondering out in the sun all day, maybe I just think he told me.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 29, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Pyro just bailed on the TR
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 29, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
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93 degrees in my living room right now, probably a lot warmer at Stony, 33 miles northwest of me as the car drives.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 29, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Tuolumne Meadows is perfect right now.
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Aug 29, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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So ... Cmon up to Top Out Climbing tonight
Santa Clarita
What the heck ... Check it out just once
Pool table ... Foosball ... And climbing
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 30, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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93 degrees in my living room right now, probably a lot warmer at Stony, 33 miles northwest of me as the car drives.
Nut.... sort of wrong. Due to the topagraphy of the LA basin and surrounding valleys, coolness depends on your location and it's proximity to the cold Pacific Ocean. Take the beach for example, about 60 all the time, cause of the ocean.
The SFV is one huge sewer bowl with a opening to the sea way out by Dodger Stadium... Pasadena is also a long way from the sea and gets the sea breeze in the evening... thats why its 93 at your place.
Stoney Point, in Chatsworth, is just east of the Santa Suzana Pass. This pass connects the SF valley with the Simi Valley, Moorpark and the Oxnard Plain. This low pass allows the sea breeze to start hitting STONEY POINT about 3-4pm at the latest. At this time of the year the breeze is strong and while not cold like the beach, it can be 15 - 20 degrees cooler than your Pasadena hang.
What I'm trying to say is this... it's a lot cooler to be at Stoney Point than anyplace else.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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Guy ur forgetting that when its hot hot I tend to drink more thus risking it vs when its kool!
Bikini's are plentiful at beach but not much at stoney :-)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 30, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
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Pyro.... I like the girls at SP.... all ripped, with chalk on hands, pulling down hard.
No Bikini clad babes, with soft bodies allowed at SP. The rattlers scare off them beach babes.
Ever see a porno getting filmed at the Beach?
No- I have not ether. Know why?????
Mr. Turtle Head takes over in the freezing water. ;>)
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 30, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
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^^^ Too funny ^^^
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B in Arizona
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Aug 30, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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I met two Stoney regulars, Mike, and Eric, at the Dog boulder in Mammoth today.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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You mean "Cement Mike" and "To-strong Eric" ....
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B in Arizona
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Mike was an older guy with a bum foot.
Eric was a younger guy.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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10b.... Hi, some more of the "new breed" have gone in search of the BEST places. Mammoth and Bishop sure do fit the bill, expect more.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 13, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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Sep 26, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 26, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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hooth.... it was the style at the time.
Its been hella hot the last few weeks, but now its nice and almost cold.
Come on out
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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@guyzo they are the style again, hold onto your old clothes styles always cycle back.
as far as heat... it was hot on the S crack Sunday but cool in Maggies Farm. Soon i will be relegated to winter night climbs after work on that bloody lap again. always a beverage waiting for a story and a straggler.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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hooth... don't worry the night is nice....
And did you see the "Historic" bouldering pad located at my feet??????
That is THE ORIGINAL pad... yup right there.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Is Stoney Point open today? Guyzo are ya gonna be there?
-Jordan
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I'll be there Jordan...come on out...would be fun to chat/dream/scheme.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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For sure Jordan...
City of LA has plenty of cash.
C-ya
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Can anybody identify the stunt man for David Hasselhoff's television show the Knight Rider. it was filmed in 1982-87 Season 1 episode 4 featured Stoney Point as "White Mountain"! The climber had to be filmed doing the "ole-aid line". effing a3 death bolts! very scary if ya ask me.
Good job!
i remember watching that techy kinda show!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 10, 2013 - 01:25am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 10, 2013 - 11:41am PT
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It did not rain very hard in Chatsworth yesterday and the sun is out now and the ground is not muddy at all.....
So Stoney is open....
the City of LA has plenty of cash, so no closure.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 10, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Farouk.... I dont think he does Stoney Point
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
okay i was mistaken!
women do hang around stoney!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Oct 12, 2013 - 09:07am PT
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Not to throw dirty towel on a hot chick but it's that time of year again...
Stoney Point Adopt-a Crag cleanup day is scheduled for Oct 19th
Link to register here: http://www.rei.com/event/53492/session/79697
Northridge REI — Adopt A Crag: Stoney Point Clean Up Project
Date: 10/19/2013
Event Location: Stoney Point Climbing Area
Event Fee: Free
Time: 8:30 AM - 12:30 PM PDT
Partner Organization: Access Fund
Group Size: 200
Description: Join REI for our annual Adopt-a-Crag service project at Stoney Point. Bring the whole family for a day filled with environmental stewardship and fun. Water, snacks and lunch will be provided, along with a free REI Stewardship t-shirt and raffle prizes. Please dress appropriately for the weather, bring extra water, sun protection, and garden gloves for trash pick up.Stoney Point is located on Topanga Canyon blvd just south of the 118 Fwy in Chatsworth. Watch for signs and no-parking zones.
More Partner Information:
Access Fund
Register
196 spots left
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jw35
climber
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Oct 12, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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Damn.................Definitely Bouldering in the Wrong Spot.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 12, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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I hope she knows what poison oak looks like...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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although, i'm still hang'n with the Knight Rider?
somebody must have been there?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
somebody must have been climbing at Stoney Point around 1982 when they filmed the Knight Rider?
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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That video is pretty rad!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 13, 2013 - 09:52am PT
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I'm surprised no one knows about that knight rider shoot.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Oct 13, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Uho...Waugh's gonna be pissed you posted a photo of him top roping...good thing he's not on here...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 13, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
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He is going to be more pissed cause Molly is check to make sure he tied in right.
The real joke is that rope was completely worthless. He had just cut about 80% of that rope out and the piece he is using wasn't worth a damn. + I hadn't seen anyone on that problem in at least 25 years ( dirty ) & the shoes he has on are what he climbed in.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Oct 13, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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Quick top rope solo laps today after work.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 15, 2013 - 01:29am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 20, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Another one has Graduated from Stoney Point University.
You all know just where this is.
McKenna Murphy, who has been climbing for just shy of 2 years just did a fine one day accent of Half Dome.
Matty, was the leader, McKenna took the lead on some of the lower pitches and did a great job of keeping up with Matt.
Way to go!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
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way to go Twin!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 20, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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Matt & Mckenna keeping a long tradition & making Stoney proud.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 21, 2013 - 09:29am PT
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Went there last Sunday, for a little sesh at sundown.
The place looked all clean and shinny, like a brand new dime.
Thanks to all who pitched in and picked up trash on Saturday.
you make a difference.
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jw35
climber
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Oct 21, 2013 - 11:32am PT
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Wow.....................Nice to see Ummagumma being done with the Correct Exit.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 27, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 28, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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Mark... what a pic of "how not to do-it?" hahahahahahahahahaha...
Anyway, as of 3.33 pm --- no rain in Chatsworth, not a drop.
Plenty of big black clouds racing overhead.
update Tuesday.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 28, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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That's why no faces are shown.
Climb - on.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 28, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
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bombs away over stoney.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Oct 28, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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Now that I am older I can talk to Rock Number 1. Today, we kicked the ball around a little.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Oct 28, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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Then there is the Stoney Point Rock Monster. It gets together with Rock 1 and everyone else at night.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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the king of stoney!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 29, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 29, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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At 2:15 PST..... it's pretty dry in Chatsworth. We only had a very light sprinkle last nite.
No mud, at all
So Stoney will be OK for climbing this last Tuesday of the season.
see you all there
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 29, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 30, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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FAROUK.... its dry as a bone and sunny too.... You should come on out to Stoney on Thursday. Last day of the SEASON...
come in costume.... you can dress up as Medusa... tons of other folks are doing the same....Lots of hawt chicks crushing IT.
Maybe you can get lucky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know Madusa does, all the time.
pease out
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Oct 31, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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Anyone know about a problem to the right of Quickstep, by Mozarts, traversing up and right to a unique sloper situation?
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Katiekorn
Sport climber
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I'm breaking out the lights tomorrow night for some after work bouldering.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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It was a pleasure climbing with you.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Nov 11, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
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MARK! We all miss you at Stoney.
Jenny and I thought we saw you yesterday...But, he was just another guy with gray hair. :)
Anyway, getting back in the climbing game this fall. Women's 5'0 beta for Maters of Reality is almost complete! Figured I would give the update.
Hope to be able to see/climb with you soon!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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hey mark miss ya! FYI got some email about the iceberg. the person love it! good job!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 11, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
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Hopefully I'll be down for a week or two in Dec.
Can't tell you how much I miss Stoney.
You folks are always welcome up here.
Not to mention surfing.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2013 - 11:24am PT
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hey mark hope to cya!
my new surf'n buddies josh and McKenna will meet you there at 5:15am!!!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 12, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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Bump,
Steve
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 13, 2013 - 01:08am PT
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5:15 a.m. I'm just going to sleep.
Good for those boys.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2013 - 08:15am PT
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Five fifteen full of ambition cya out there!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 13, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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Hysterical Jeff!!
Of course getting stuffed between Mom and the piano could be a drag...
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 14, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
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I love that cartoon. It's an example of the importance of the need to learn and practice tossing gear. I think it's become a lost art.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 14, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Jeff, too funny.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 21, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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Good one Yapher.....
Just a Public Service Reminder.....
It RAINED HARD all nite long and the rain is still falling as of 8am...
Best to stay of the stone till it dries out.
We do have a problem.... the Rain Sheriff, Frummy, has moved to Bishop.....
and we need a new one.
I know Frummy would walk his hounds and advise young and old boulders and would be climbers to PLEASE STAY OFF OF THE WET STONE....he did this service for many years, saving the good problems.
Its time for a new one....
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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Nov 21, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
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Haha! That cartoon is too funny!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 23, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 23, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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Sequence of photos from 1985. I wonder if Barb and Jarrod are still forever???
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 23, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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Classic
Stop taking my climbs.
I swear I can see the wind.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 23, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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Darn
I
hope
they
open
a
gym
up
here
I'm
missing
everything.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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Love the Dave pic. Wish I had a pair of thoses vectors.
Thanks guy man!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 23, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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The funny thing is Dave doesn't look any older now. The rest of us look a lot older.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Nov 24, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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That was a picture I took of Dave back in the day. Wish I had more from back then.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2013 - 11:08am PT
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yafer u rock!
glad u had ur camera.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 24, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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That belongs in the short shorts thread! Love the olds shots.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 26, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Nice and warm(ish) today.... The Point will be prime, bring headlamps.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 26, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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So how's the Point doing?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 26, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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Vectors were the best.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 27, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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Stoney's really nice right now..... they are going to kick us out of the factory today at 3pm ....... yes.
Going to go see who is there, and drink a few Sierra Nevadas.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 27, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
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There has to be less people there than at the happys today. It was like the parking lot at the rose bowl.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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happy thanksgiving stoney!
turlock rock
drew has only been climbing for three years and he's in his mid-50's!
drew's kid nick
nick is climb'n strong!
cheers!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Nov 27, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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http://ndtitanlady.dpmblogs.com/
Natalie Duran at Stoney Point (her Blog) Kind of interesting...she be a celeb climber, right?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 28, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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Happy Thanksgiving.
I think there are more Stoney Pointers up here this holiday than in L.A.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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That photo of Nick... he was finishing up the left to right traverse via the crystal ball.....
I think that's a long time project of Mikes....
maybe he will get challenged and show his face?
Kids are getting stronger.
So Mark whats the weather like, right now?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 29, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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The weather is great.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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better watch out somebody will pull those bolts!
I wanna go climb over there
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Hope to see you all there today!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Bump for a sweet thread. If i'm ever in LA again i'll stop by!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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I'm hoping to make it out Thursday, hope to see you.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Dec 10, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
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Did the wind dry up all the rain? What say you Valley dwellers?
Mark, Stoney is covered in that first seed sprout after the annual weed whackage. Trying to gussy herself up for your return.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
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Dec 10, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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Nice and dry today although it is still a bit windy and cold. Nice day for the amphetheater.
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Katiekorn
Sport climber
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Dec 12, 2013 - 12:12am PT
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Look forward to seeing you tomorrow, Mark! The weather is going to be perfect!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 12, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Dec 12, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
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Whoa, is that at SP or near Santa Barbara?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 12, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Stoney between Rock 1 and Rock 2. Telephoto from the road. I was photographing a single buzzard and another way came swooping in.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 12, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Looks like it's going to be a great day out at Stoney. Be there around 2:00
Mchale nice pictures.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 12, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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Sweet Frumy see u there ! I'll be there 4:30ish
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 12, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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Dan .... recently???
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 12, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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That was the end of September this year. I kind of snuck through. I didn't even put my shoes on! I was armed and dangerous with my camera though!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2013 - 12:44am PT
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Great temp's for top-rope climbing at the Black wall!
nice shot of steve climbing on the "nose Cone".
good times!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 13, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Was great hanging with the crew tonight!!! Nice to see this threads author come out for a bit!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
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setting up at the Black wall
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
2min climb! so nice to feel the fresh winter air while climbing the black patina's.
thank's for suggesting this area frumy!
craig climbing on turlock rock.
banny climbing on turlock
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
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photo sequence of climber nick on turlock rock.
nice job!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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Pyro, I didn't realize till now, the Black Wall ( that you posted after my shots ) is in the background of my Buzzard shots! You knew that! It's pretty easy to match up the section of rock in back of the buzzards with your shots.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 18, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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Was out yesterday...saw the elusive stoney point gnome "short"ly after I arrived(pun intended) followed by none other than the Wazoo...was good to BS for a bit.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 19, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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It is RAINING HARD right now.... time to close it down for a day or two....
So the WaZoo showed his face, good for him....we need more of him around, showing old problems to the kids, they are hungry for more hard problems.
We need to make sure that he knows that "His traverse on Turlock" got a second....
Nick LeProhon.... remember his name, been climbing like 2 years.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 19, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
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Lots of holds breaking lately...please stay off till next week
Guy- which traverse is that? around the whole boulder, or a certain section? Unrepeated? hummmmm dunno
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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Dec 19, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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I am going to vent!!!
What the F is up with all these climbers using PADS?
Don't go to Stoney because it's raining. F Off
Where's my crow bar, I am gong to Stoney to do some first ascents.
Mad Man
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 19, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Guy- which traverse is that? around the whole boulder, or a certain section? Unrepeated? hummmmm dunno
The whole thing goes right to left.....
M. Waugh is the only person- that I know of, who has done the crystal ball going to the right... using thin fingers in the pin scars.
Next time you see him ask.....
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 19, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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The traverse from the photo sequence above? Either way it's hard and congrats to Nick...he sure is crushin these days.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 19, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
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Matty.... Pyro got the sequence of photos out of sequence.
Nick has done the whole traverse, the section from "Pleaser" to the B1 problem had only been done by Waugh - oh yea God did it too. :>)
A whole flock of new climbers are really tearing it up as of late.
Sam E did all of the problems on B1 except for Ti#@y F%*K the other day.... like a machine.
Reminds me of me.... BITD ;>) LOL
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 19, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
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Was Ti#@y F%*K too wet or what?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 19, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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The titty has gotten smaller and harder to f*#k
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Dec 20, 2013 - 12:59am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 20, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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Hi-ball slab climbing!
how do you figure v0 ????
Yafer don't spill the beans.... now remember, we have a DEAL.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
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Mchale I just soo happen to set this thing up the other day.
question what is the bolted aid rivet and pinscar thing to the left of the fee climbs?
nice photo's!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 23, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Pyro.... I think its named "BOB" .... his name is painted right there, for all to see.
So you going to do Toprope Tuesday on 12.24.13???????
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
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Dec 23, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
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Bouldering session to commence around 11 or 12 on Christmas day. Be there or ...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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would love to but gotta work!
mike back in town so jan comes out to play!!!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
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Pyro, I don't know what the bolt is. I didn't put it in and don't recall climbing on it. Maybe it's the first pitch of The Death Route out front! You know, you have to link quite a few things to get a multi-day climb at Stoney.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 24, 2013 - 11:43am PT
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Happy Holidays - Boulder on.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 24, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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Same to you Mark, happy Christmas.
So your not going to make it on Wed?
You are missed, all the girls say hi.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 26, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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Sam... thanks
rSin... no change at all.
just a ton of great climbers
having a blast, 24/7/365
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 27, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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Spencer has some sweet stuff on Vimeo. The kayaking is really cool, gnarly compard to the lake kayaking Ive done. Great editing too. Good eye spencer!
You guys are making the hard stuff at Stoney look easy. Makes me want to try power glide but it will have to wait as I have 4 weeks of endurance training when I get back from michigan. I'm back on the 3rd. See u after that.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 27, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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Matty have a good trip.
Spencer does have a very good eye.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 30, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
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Mark.... hi, good to see your face (sort of)
Stoney has been nice, dry and pretty warmish.... for December.
Lots of folks out with new climbing gear... playing with toys.
see you all later.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 30, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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Too bad it's dry...we need rain...lots
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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my favorite photo for 2013
happy new year stoney gang!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 31, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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That's badass all right. Makes Stoney look like a cool place too! Haha! Happy New Years!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 31, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Ha.... the back story in that photo.... ???????
John is doing levers, Katie is just starting up Maggies Farm....thinks she is on belay.
Dan.... 2014... get your butt out to SP. You can tell many stories....
happy new years to all
Oh yea.... please God, bring us some rain.... 24 inches in 30 days will do it. Thank you
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
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that was a fun day! I got to meet johnny's friend Kenny! fun stories.
good times!
happy new year!!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Happy new year to all.
Dan, Guy is right you need to get out there. There is a really good group of young climbers that are very interested in the history of Stoney & climbing in general.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Happy New Year Pyro!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Stoney Point Regulars
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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I was climbing at Mozarts Wall today ...
Looks like someone pulled a hold off the wall
On the route that starts on the right side
Right at the little bent tree and about 12 ft up
Looks like it was a small palm sized flake
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Whatever those 2 are looking at is getting them pretty excited.
Dan, Guy is right you need to get out there. If you look back in this thread a ways, I more or less challenged Largo to a bouldering contest. It had to take place while he still had a cast on though. Now I'm in a cast. I'm also 1,200 miles away or I'd be there pronto. Good times! Happy New Fears!
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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This photo may have already appeared, but am not that curious to find out. I assume they are at SP.
Photo by Bonnie Kamps (I think!)
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Yes that's Stoney. That is on Turlock the boulder that's found around in back. Look's like Bob doing a no hands ascent of "The Boy Scout Ladder".
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Yafer & Jgill great pictures.
I'm more & more convinced that bishop is the northern end of Stoney Point.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Yo Pyro! what's the pin scar line just left of Sculptures? You have a pic of it here.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2014 - 02:18pm PT
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picture of James aiding the thing.
It can be freed cuzz I tried it years ago.
I had it in pieces but knew if worked can get done!
Edit: thanks dan!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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That's Dick James. I took the pic from a hanging belay. Here's a more recent pic.....that palm out by the parking strip at Stoney. Kind of amazing - it appears to be growing wild.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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I don't know but I don't think it has a name. The bolts are for Nabisco Canyon.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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a little off topic but close to home.....how many of you know about the nuclear meltdown that happened in the Santa Susana Hills at Rocketdyne in 1959;
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
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All that radiation blew into Simi, which explains a lot, actually. Didn't Pyro used to live there?!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2014 - 05:44pm PT
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nice jan!
maybe will see you sailing around for big Wednesday!!
Dan the rocketdyne facility goes deep! my granddaddy retired after 30years!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 16, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
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It's about 80 right now in Chatsworth... and a full moon rising.
just the ticket for some nite climbing.
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hairy potter
Boulder climber
san gabriel valley
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Jan 19, 2014 - 10:26am PT
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I spent some time in the old country on Saturday, and really enjoyed it. though we only hit a couple formations (not sure which), and didn't climb anything to hard, the rock seemed very good and we will be back...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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nice!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Jan 19, 2014 - 10:24pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 19, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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This is Julie, as the newest Mrs. Frumkin I feel the need to respectfully point out that there is no P in our name. Thank you Jeff.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 29, 2014 - 12:02am PT
|
January?
Photo cred to Spencer Josif.
Hucked a pretty big dyno from the Piledriver jug on Pile Ups, to the lip of the boulder today.
Rumor has it never been done?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 30, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
|
Sam... really nice shot of Gar.
Spencer, or AJ ???? are you sure??? I can't tell..
hope to see you soon
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 30, 2014 - 02:02pm PT
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Guyzo,
Spencer is the shorter of the Josif bros. Also currently stronger. But don't tell AJ that.
It's misty down here at the beach. Will Stoney be dry for the afternoon sesh?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 30, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
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Seems to be OK Sam (although I'm in santa clarita) I plan on going out. Be there 4:30 or so. Hope to see you there.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 30, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
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Ha.Ha.Ha... I can tell them apart, now, but all the kids today look the same to me... thin, muscled up and running laps around me....
Sam... its overcast and cool but no drops, so far.
Ill see you all around dark, working till 5:30 tonite.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 30, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
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More info on old country can be found on rockclimbing.com
Climbed a bunch back there around 2004-2006, was new to the area and didn't know the history so we thought we were doing a bunch of "new" routes...maybe they have been done before be we couldn't find any info so we named them ourselves. In retrospect the grades you see on rockclimbing.com may be a bit overrated compared to the rest of stoney.
I'll bet alot of bushes have grown in around he boulders. Sure was fun back there, no people, no litter, not much graffiti. Hope some more people find their way over and enjoy the solitude and fun boundering. I'm game to go again sometime if anyone ever want to check it out.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
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sequence of sam e on b1 boulder.
thank's for the read on that stuff out back.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 31, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
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Sam is really killing it...
last nite when it started to rain... he went and sent Crankn Queene...
It only rained for about an hour, its pretty dry in chatsworth today, SB good to go by sat.
rSin.... hope your leg heals up, U can show us the big dyno.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Hello Julie!@ Sorry for the mistake! I've since corrected the post for the photo of Mark Frumkin.
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Katiekorn
Sport climber
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Not sure when this went up, or how strictly it will be enforced, but am pretty bummed to see it.
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willittt
Boulder climber
Topanga, California
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Sprained my ankle so I have been bored and have resorted to the internet to try to appease my climbing needs. Here are some photos from last summer...
Sam had asked if anyone knew of the climb that starts to the right of Quickstep that traverses out right and tops out on some slopers and an interesting move... I would also like to know about this one! anybody know anything?
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Is that Guy at the end?
Will, we need to ask Sandlow about that problem. Although I don't think that's "The Sandlow Problem"
I say if something hasn't been sent in over twenty years and it's not a known problem, you get the Revival Ascent or RA.
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willittt
Boulder climber
Topanga, California
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Sam, yeah. People were saying he was the one who put it up but then I've heard he put up the one in between that one and quickstep. Anyway the start to it is going to break which doesn't seem like it will ruin it because the fun part is toppin it out. I thought it was a good problem. Stoked to have the RA if that's what you call it. Everybody should go try it, maybe the beginning will clean up a bit.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
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if one think's new routes can be put up at stoney think again!
either bachar or yabo got it done in the 70's
either robin's or Chouinard climbed it in the 60's
stay strong sam!
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willittt
Boulder climber
Topanga, California
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Oh no. I was in no way trying to claim a new route. just curious about its history.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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We were talking about Bachar today at Umma Gumma. The legend inspires. I sent in my Acopas, topping out direct. Excellent moves.
Managed a second send of the Pile Ups Dyno aka DynoMight. After trying into the night, packing up to leave, obsessing, unpacking and finally sticking it. Technical feet and a precision catch make it more than just a big throw. Super fun.
Looks like rain's coming Thursday.
Spencer climbing ELP on the B1 boulder
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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That Yabo Arete photo caught my eye.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sorry I missed it tonight.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sam... please can the instagram links, OK. Some of us spend all day looking at ST at work.
The Pile ups low traverse looked pretty cool.
Lots of good stuff getting climbed, again. ??????
The RA, nice.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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The low traverse on Pile Ups, Paul Anderson's "Low and Behold" (B1+) aka Laura Griffith's "White Angel Traverse" (V9/10) is the perfect example of an Revival Ascent. And still eludes me.
Dr. F, I first started bouldering at Malibu Creek with a copy of your SoCal Guide. Chasing around the shadows of legends on bold forgotten climbs. Thanks.
Expansion Chamber gets climbed all the time. It's a Stoney classic!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Hi, it's 1:15.... The RAIN just started... be happy- we need it.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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North of the train tracks south of the fwy. Runs year round.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Awesome sunset tonight.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 27, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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Stoney Point is getting a much needed wash down, with more rain hopefully tonite.
So stay away for a few days.... OK?
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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It was nice and dry today, Tuesday 3-4, one more day away would be best cause its still dripping and the dirt is muddy.
I still expect to see a bunch of cars parked today.
See you all Thursday
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
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Maybe when time change happens hotdog BBQ can happen?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Wow .... number 2000
Nice and sunny sunrise, good day to go to stoney after work.
Hot dog! you bet
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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2001 - we are the monkeys.
Climb-on.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 10, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
|
I would like to say "thank you" to the person(s) who took the time to erase the latest "ART WORK" that was placed, for all to see, near the base of the Jesus Wall....
made my morning
Thanks
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 12, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
|
Great day great Pho last night.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 13, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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Bitch.... see you at 5.... bring "the good stuff" you keep bragin about. OK??
We will test it out....
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willittt
Boulder climber
Topanga, California
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 14, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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^^needs more pads
also I dont get the name...it's not a "killer" problem and the name don't even rhyme like "fire or retire"...crimp or gimp
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Mar 14, 2014 - 04:30pm PT
|
The rock quality is pretty bad, hence you either Crimp it, or Rip it off the wall.
Canyon boulders saw some love yesterday.
The Font, Kodas Corner, Guar Scar (both ways), Scrambled Eggs, Quick Step, Pancake Flake and Incubus.
Looks like the big Eucalyptus trees are either getting thinned out or removed all together.
Either way expect more chaos by Turlock.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 14, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
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Should be crimp it and pimp it
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2014 - 11:37am PT
|
is that the summit boulders? Yabo dyno?
Bitch we love you!
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willittt
Boulder climber
Topanga, California
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Mar 16, 2014 - 03:50pm PT
|
Same start as Yabo Dyno but no dyno.
What happened to that guy who used to bring the disco ball?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
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Christian the disco boulder guy!
I can find out for ya just need to make some phone calls. sure he's still crank'n!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 16, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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Christian is living in Lone Pine.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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Same start as Yabo Dyno but no dyno
yabo did it already!
sorry to burst your bubble!!!!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Mar 17, 2014 - 03:13pm PT
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You wouldn't have a clue if Yabo did it. The only one that might is Waugh. And what is with the Yabo worship. That guy could climb but was otherwise quite screwed up. He misused many people and yet you children have placed some sort of shine on the guy. He was a psychopath and should be remembered as such.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 17, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
|
So I thought yabo dyno was off to the left, by the tree, this one starts there and then traverses right and up? or do I have the dyno starting at the wrong spot?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 17, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
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Sorry off topic but two of the folks I need to talk to are right here....
Pyro, did you here anything about D. Katz, flying off of EBGB?????
Gome... just cause a ton of the problems were "DONE" by Yabo....maybe..??
I don't see a fixation on "Him"... just the 4 or 5 really cool problems that carry his name.
besides it would be boreing to name all the problems "The Waugh dyno" ...."Waugh mantle"....etc. cause Mike would never admitt to ever doing any of those problems in the first place.
besides John Y. is dead and he can't stick up for him self.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
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You wouldn't have a clue if Yabo did it. The only one that might is Waugh yeah okay!
John Bachar fired it then gave it to Yabo!
I called Waugh and he told me soo BLAH BLAH!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 17, 2014 - 10:23pm PT
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G_Gnome I see that your trip to the Arabian desert has softened you up a bunch.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
|
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Mar 17, 2014 - 11:32pm PT
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Matty, Yabo dyno starts in the middle of the face and goes to a hold just below the lip, unless you can fly. Then by all means, go to the lip. The climb by the tree is something else. V4?? Low start?
I think the Yabo problems are all great. The Yabo Arête is in my top two climbs at Stoney.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 17, 2014 - 11:48pm PT
|
The San Fernando Valley is home to a multi-billion dollar porn industry. They should be encouraged to sponsor a Stony Point adopt a crag....nobody likes to step on a used condom.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2014 - 12:30am PT
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What stoney point needs is drone photo shots..too poor for such device...volunteers needed!
Yabos name is all over the place!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
|
Big Jim.... you need to catch up to the "new reality" that is the city of LA. The porn industry is getting run out of Chatsworth by the city officals who wish for more condom use.... you see they decided to make the industry "safe" for the workers. So now one needs to get a permitt to make a movie with city inspectors present on the location to make sure everyone is fully "dressed"....
I am on the list to become one of these "complaince officers", not looking to get rich, but a nice cushy job, working for the city, counting down the days to retirement... my kind of gig.
And Stoney Point..... its all cleaned up, now, with so many climbers picking up trash 24/7 its like a new dime.
You need to come check it out.... we will start with the Yabo problems...
you might be able to add some Donni problems.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
|
you might be able to add some Donni problems.
Can I come? I might be able to add a Marie problem for a matched set.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
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Jim I'm going to climb a new boulder problem at MUGU rock and name it something about YABO!!!
Jim join us ur well respected mtn man!
guyman
Pyro, did you here anything about D. Katz, flying off of EBGB?????
?? I'll find out when I see him!
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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Mar 18, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
|
I am sure there are night climbers, but is there a decent crowd into the night with the time change now? about the right time to get back to post office hours hill hopping nightcaps on tues/thurs. thank you in advance
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:12pm PT
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Hooth...... some still climb late into the nite.
we will keep a cold one for you.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 11:40am PT
|
Late at night is the only time you can find & do the donni & marie mantel.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 19, 2014 - 11:43am PT
|
I must admit that my memories of Stony Point are a bit dated....last time I was there was in 1978.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 19, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
|
1978.... let me see.
One could drive down there, and climb or dump trash.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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Jimmy D! Come on down! I know it's the BIG CITY....but come on...
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MisterE
climber
|
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
|
Ha! Wonder if that 4.4 got the perched boulder on top moving at all...
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 19, 2014 - 10:23pm PT
|
Damn...look at the problem he's doing in the BIG BOOTS!
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willittt
Boulder climber
Topanga, California
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Mar 20, 2014 - 01:54am PT
|
Went today and found that the city cut down a bunch of trees by Turlock and b1. They must've let one of the huge euks fall right onto Turlock when the let it go. There's tree marks all over the top out to that climb that goes up above hoof and mouth. And then it looks like they tried to squeeze some limbs between the two boulders on the way to there dumpster. No holds seem broken just a lot of tree scum everywhere. And less shade.
Here are some photos from last week
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2014 - 11:18am PT
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Mar 20, 2014 - 11:30am PT
|
Dude said the trees were "Damaged" pulled that sucker right onto Turlock. Shook the ground when it hit.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 20, 2014 - 01:49pm PT
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I musta done something right on tuesday, my forearms are SORE...hurts to make a fist...and that dont happen too much anymore=)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 21, 2014 - 10:17am PT
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Last Thursday nite, the refreshments were provided by FISH and FISH PRODUCTS.
A gud time was had by all.....
Thanks Russ, you da man.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2014 - 10:32am PT
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that's effing awesome!
world class recognition from the fish
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 21, 2014 - 11:12am PT
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Thank you Fish.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 26, 2014 - 01:05am PT
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 27, 2014 - 08:51pm PT
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Climb - on.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:43am PT
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:48am PT
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So bummed to hear about the "damaged" tree removal, you suckers need all the shade you can get.
Great to see the awesome climbing community of Stoney still getting after it.
Sam, some sweet pictures dude!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2014 - 01:22am PT
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Mank from the Point!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 01:32am PT
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Walling is the man.
The Moses of So SoCal climbing. He gathers his chosen people.
I gotta get down there. I hear the calling. This summer, brah! I think I have a trip to Coronado in the radar. And the San Diego crew has a few trix.
I love climbing....
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 28, 2014 - 02:44am PT
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Ryan why did you remove those perfectly good bolts?
Looks like they are just getting broken in.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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My girlfriend got the shot in LA magazine on aid line on the Jesus wall.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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T-fish.... nice shot.
Stoney Point Conditions: 4/1/2014..... very wet and muddy, small lakes by B1 and Turlock. Turlock is starting to tilt more toward the east due to the removed trees changing the water flow and undercutting the base of the stone.
I predict it will fall over by 2019 unless we get a plan of action, please send funds to:
Save Stoney
14801 A Campus Park Dr
Moorpark, CA. 93021
cash please, no checks.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Tip it over now. If it lands right the bolts on the top could be a new sport route!
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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thanks guy.
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CragRat 4x4
Big Wall climber
Simi Valley Ca
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New high-line bolts @ Beethoven? ... West side of the anchor rock. Was 3 Now 6!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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So Yafer whats up?????
you still planning the Vacation to Chech republic? still doing reasearch?
Pretty nice and sunney today, temps warming up, Stoney will be good.
I will be gone.... North to Sonoma, today, -world series of karting- round #3, starts friday am, at 6.
c-ya
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Wtf is this route? Just to the right of Jesus wall. One pussy bolt next to a crack to some chiseled holds to janky bolts on a ledge. 5.7ish.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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bolt thing showed up early 2000.
stupid idiot route!
it's the 4th class chiseled holds thing that get's u to top.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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That's the class 4 git-up-git-down. Solo it a million times bitd.
Good time of year to lead the S-Crack with the bee's in neutral mode. Looks like a bird/bat crap festival but is actually a very fun 5.7.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Not a good a time for S crack there's some baby ravens in a nest 1/2 way up.
And that thing is harder that 4th class if you go by the bolt. You old guys are way too bad ass.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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T-Fish. The 4th class section (really easy class 5) is below that "route" and follows huge scooped out chopped holds to the ledge.
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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Apr 18, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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No action in 11 days on this thread, so posting last nights Thursday regulars pic. Great weather, have a good weekend all.
-Huth
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 06:30pm PT
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Apr 24, 2014 - 01:36am PT
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Tired old man returns to SP after at least 20 years only to find global gravity has increased to the degree that old easy problems are now impossible even while wearing newly resold Fires... sad.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 24, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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This increase of global gravity is a series problem that NO one seem interested in taking seriously.
Even with this these young climbers, not having enough experience to no any better, keep climbing.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 24, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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Paul..... some things have changed, some not so much, the pull of the gravity, as you just found out, varies.
Looks like you were in the sun.
Did you like the new painting on B1?
Last Tuesday was really a hi energy day!
Da Meat was out, he can still crush it, with the best of them young guns.
The new couple: Steve and Ashley - from Grand Rapids .... they took right to the place. I didn't know you could be that good and come from a flatland state.
Welcome you two.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Apr 24, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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Tired old man returns to SP after at least 20 years only to find global gravity has increased to the degree that old easy problems are now impossible even while wearing newly resold Fires... sad.
I'm not sure it was ever that easy.....at least one handed. ;>)
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Apr 24, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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Well boys...I'll see your sorry butts in a week or two. Taking some time off currently before I start another training cycle. Been getting out too...did south face Washington column and west face leaning tower a few weeks ago and am headed up to do routes on Whitney/Russel this weekend. Cheers!
Matt
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 12:44am PT
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I cleaned up the retard of an anchor on top of the freeway crack today.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 12:47am PT
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Tones,
Great shot. I haven't seen Grapes of Wrath in so long that I never realized they shot parts of it near Stoney.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 11:23am PT
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nice job Tfish!
although, the new shinny bolt is coles first bolt replacement.
wonder why it went bad?
we figured the two originals by loomis were fine but good on you!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Apr 28, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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Love this report.
Great stuff.
Thanks
Wes
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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The bolts were just all over the place. You needed like 50 ft of webbing to equalize them. And the one in between the star drives was in pretty crooked and already a little rusty. Also it was just in a weird spot right in between the 2. The star drives pulled out really easy. I also left some quick links on the anchor so you can rap off because every time l go there, someone leaves some tat. I left the one bolt that's to the left and at the lip for the other route.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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did you guys climb the other side of that area?
loomis set it up so you can climb freeway then get the other stuff!!
glad your dusting off the freeway crack.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
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I did the little cracks to the right of freeway. But not the 5.11 to the left. But I left the bolt at the lip for that one. The old 1/4s were in a good spot, but the other new bolts were really weird.
I left the one in the right side. You can see the 2 old and 1 new in the middle, I pulled all 3 of those. And the random bolt all the way in the back by my backpack got pulled. I put 2 new ones near the crack to the right.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
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PS if anyone thinks it sucks or I messed it up, I'll go fix it. But to me, it's a cleaner easier set up. Also I'm down to throw in some more SS bolts if anyone knows of any that need replacing.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 28, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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Base of the bolt ladder the other day. Almost set my pack on it while getting ready to do a few solo laps
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PhillVanDyke
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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Hey All,
My daughter lost one of her brand new La Sportiva Tarantulace size five shoes about 10 days ago in the back area somewhere around Koda's Corner. Somehow it must have fallen out of my crash pad when leaving, so we didn't notice until just a few days ago when we went climbing again. If anyone happened to pick it up, please e-mail me at PhillVanDyke@gmail.com. Much appreciated!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
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bump for lost shoes.
Nice work Tfish
Nice picture Batrock.
Climb on
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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bump for the shoes!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:55pm PT
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Not stoney but close enough.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 30, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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Nice Tfish
we use to climb a lot around box canyon.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nice, you got any recommendations besides the aid stuff on bigwall.com? It's a pretty decent spot, I'm all about avoiding the crowds and getting obscure.
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Hey Tfish, is my bail gear still on that A3/A4 RURP crack?
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Can you tell me where the freeway crack is?
I don't know it by name.
Is it somewhere north of the tracks?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 11:20am PT
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this picture shows the formation to the right of topanga.
hike straight out to it. the crack is kinda hidden but it faces
stoney point
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I didn't see any bail gear on the A3 seam. The only bail thing I saw was this janky anchor at the top. It's a rivet hanger, a bird sh#t bolt and another bolt with a cracked hanger.
The freeway crack is north of Stoney. Park at the top and the. Walk up towards the freeway on a trail right next to the road. You can lead it or scramble up by a crack on the backside.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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tfish u need a bigwall!
love ur posts. ive never aided the box cyn stuff only been
run out by homeowners. i have played aid on the rockey peak stuff
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The only bail thing I saw was this janky anchor at the top. It's a rivet hanger, a bird sh#t bolt and another bolt with a cracked hanger.
Nothing wrong with the anchor, pretty standard SP deal. It was good enuf for Robbins. Heck, just slam in a bong or two if ya think its not gona work.
;>)
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Your posts are rad too pyro. I just tried to get the south face of the Washington column but got shut down by some old pussy retard party of 3. The guy said he has been on the route 6 times. Like yo, you know there are like 1,000 more routes here dude. They also shuttled like 4 loads to the base. How much sh#t do you need for one night?!? And they were super slow and unorganized and sloppy. The wouldn't let us pass so we just did the first 2 pitches and bailed. There was a storm coming and we had to go home soon too so we couldn't wait it out. But yeah I want a big wall really bad.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mummmmm bigwall.....drool
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Tfish-when were your pics taken?
We usually don't go through all that bird debris to get over there. (We are soft)
There are two or three bolts just as the crack goes virtical for a few feet then horizontal bird houses, that we can lower from.
Wes
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
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Tfish it could be worse first time I went wall climbing I got shut down from prow twice! I wanted the rope-solo send..the first time I was too scared! the second time I decided to start a giant fire!
the better route is the skull queen.
that south face thing is full of total beginners, but not in the winter.
south face is fun.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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They were all taken a few days ago except for the one of me aiding the freeway crack that was from last year. I went to that anchor and then just down climbed cuz it was janky and then chopped some tat and left 2 quick links and some webbing on 2 newer upside down bolts.
Wes, do you know what's up with the fixed line way right of the wall?
Yeah I def want to try another wall instead of south face next. Even if we wanted skull queen we still would have gotten shut down by the kooks above us.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2014 - 11:41pm PT
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Those are some sick shots Yafer!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Yafer, how's the rockey peak aid route? I checked it out the other day, but I heard the anchors were janky.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Good to see the pics again Jeff. When Yafer and I went to do the rocky peak roof last may we got chased off by a very protective Cooper's hawk. Made it to under the roof before it really started dive bombing us. Way to close for comfort. Didn't see the anchors.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Thanks Cole!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2014 - 10:35pm PT
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"the 5.7"
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Great pictures everyone.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Someone needs to plant some trees to replace what got cut down.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mark, I think the Homeowner is going to take care of that deal. I sure wouldn't want 85 year old 1/2 way dead trees leaning over my home....
Last nite was really fun, some English Fellow ... forget name, was there, he was pretty good. Sam E, DaMeat, Chase, Mo' and some of the other studs were doing all of the stuff on Turlock and B1...he was able to get almost all of those problems. Pretty impresive to watch.
Fun
EDIT: Hard climbing fellow is named- Borg
sorry, my bad with names.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 12, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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May 12, 2014 - 07:03pm PT
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^^^ Just a bunch of KoOkS in that picture^^^
the second time I decided to start a giant fire!
Quote of the year!
Love ya Pyro!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 12, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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Ya, i heard a little story recently about a fire in front of el cap?? Lol
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 12, 2014 - 10:38pm PT
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When Guy or I say hello to newly met climbers we never know what name is coming out ( by newly met I mean any one in the last 3 or 4 years). Believe it or not we remember who you are & your name is in there some place.
Guy if no one plants anything back there - think about what trees would look nice for the next 100 years & lets plant some at the end of the year.
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Katiekorn
Sport climber
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May 13, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
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This ones for you big mike!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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May 13, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
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Nice aid pics!
I'm guessing the fixed line is my buddy David's (Wallgumby). That whole wall is in his back yard. Nice huh?
Wes
PS Rocky Peak roof anchors can be backed up several ways. Some thin to med pieces bsck and right. Looks like a 3/8 stud(newish) is in that area too. But since that is a short pitch I just climb up left 20' where there are a pair of new bolts. :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 14, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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Mark.... I think Oak Trees would do just fine.
And thanks to Big Mike-
another generation is starting to go from Stoney to the Valley....your the MAN, next time please come down to the Point, we will celebrate you.
I wonder how many climbers have followed this path?
Last nite was really nice, but the place was empty??!!
The hot winds died about 5:30 and a light sea breeze cooled it off....
Summer Season is starting, might be time to restart HOT-DOG thursday?
Pyro, you game?
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Katiekorn
Sport climber
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May 15, 2014 - 02:01pm PT
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I second Pyro bringing back the weenie roast!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 15, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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Katie... way to go.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
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Snake dike is soo fun!
BBQ setup's is what we need.
i'll have to save some money up for food and BBQ!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 16, 2014 - 11:12am PT
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PYRO.... Im on IT... I'll let you know when I have a RIG... I need one of those deals, cause I don't think we will be cookin on open fires next weekend.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 16, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
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Oh man!! So good to see Katie on top of Half Dome!! You beat me to it!! Next fall Sandra and i will send it!
Guy, no worries man. Always glad to help out a fellow climber. Especially one as cool and funny as Katie! Lol
I would love to make it to Stoney one day. I still need my bones to knit a bit more before i can think about bouldering.. Maybe some metal removed too.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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May 18, 2014 - 02:49am PT
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I just drove near Stoney Point for work and was drooling. I've never seen it before. I wish I brought some gear for the down time.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 18, 2014 - 10:23am PT
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The only gear you need is a pair of shoes.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2014 - 11:13am PT
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Stoney looks so good from the freeway!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 23, 2014 - 12:10am PT
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Yafer that clip is great.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 23, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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Sideways Stoney rainbow...phone won't post straight
.....more Stoney pointers getting it done....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2014 - 10:12am PT
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hope a pot of gold was found at the end of that rainbow or at least the PoT!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 23, 2014 - 11:49am PT
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Matty....nice photo of the Rainbow... that was one of the best ones I have ever seen. All the colors were so vibrant.
and the bottom was at the Pot o GOLD.
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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May 23, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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Stoney!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice rainbow over Turlock! Who's that on Ahwanee ledge? Kudos to all Stoney Point bigwallers for getting it done!
Matty, Guy, Pyro, et al, when y'all coming up to these hills? You all have a place to stay up here anytime you want. We're close to the Valley and Soyo so get here for some good old hillbilly hospitality, yeehaw! Bring yer guns fer sum shootin :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 23, 2014 - 12:25pm PT
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Rincon.... we decided that, for this weekend, we would avoid the 99/5, ultimate traffic jam on the grapevine.
But you can bet, we will invade your home, soon.
time for some shuteye fun.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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May 23, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
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Looking forward to it Rincon. That's one of the stoney point sams his first night on the wall!!!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mike Draper and Matt Oliphant. Mr. Big Malibu Creek State park, Ca
Two Cuties
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 09:55pm PT
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OT OT
nice shot'z of Da Bu!
i kinda wasn't happy with latest "graffiti" or spray job's in the local area.
accross from stumbling block's..
"be my GF"
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Two Cuties Standing offer to check if they double-backed their harnesses.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Another good day ends.
See you later
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 11, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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Screw FB.....
Taco is 1,000,000 times better.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 22, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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Ditto
Post up
I might stop by Tuesday evening
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 22, 2014 - 11:30pm PT
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Did a quick session with the kids in the blaring afternoon heat on Saturday. We were passing it as part of our road trip adventure:
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2014 - 08:14am PT
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Nice job Nutagain!
Frumy you gonna climb with Lj and crew this fri afternoon?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 23, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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Pyro... why you ask???
Something on FB????
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 24, 2014 - 12:56pm PT
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Farouk.... you too!!!
Come out and crush.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 25, 2014 - 11:39am PT
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Good bouldering last night. Really nice to see everybody.
Pyro I won't be able to climb friday but maybe Sat. morning.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Just finished up day 1 at The Stoney point of Europe..aka the Font!!! Can't wait to go back tomorrow. Gotta say that Stoney is good training for this type of rock. On Saturday it's off to switzerland....matterhorn calling. Chow
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Stoney Boyz going International!!!!!!!
Matty, I hope you crushed those French problems.
You guys be safe out there.
See you on the return.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Hell yeah Matty crush!
You with Johnson and Sandlow?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Yea Sam. Only me Jeff and the ladies for now. Aaron will join us Saturday. The circuits at Font are amazing. Just like a golf course. You start and follow a series of painted arrows and numbers on problems of similar difficulty that take you on a loose circle so you end not to far from where you started. Probably did 40 problems today and that was only at one small area. Afterward we got beer and wine and chilled on the lawn at château de Fontainebleau, a nearby castle. Amazing. A trip of dreams in a forest to match. Have to wait to post up the good photos till I get back as I have no way of transferring them off my camera right now.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
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Stay safe Matty!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Another fine day comes to an end
Credit: guyman Nice image. That, or a similar shot from the same location would make for a good (Stoney Point) T-shirt design.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jul 10, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
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Shut down by 4 straight days of storm dumping snow on the matterhorn. Sucks but so goes life in the big mountains...back to the font
Edit: make that 5 - still storming today
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2014 - 06:40am PT
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matty u should send anyways!
ive seen pictures of that thing like foruk syas its a cake walk....
bbq sounds fun!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 19, 2014 - 09:02am PT
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!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Farouk
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!What did ya climb?????????????????
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IT HOT???????????????????????????????????????????????
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!C-YA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 23, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
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I was really happy to see Greg Olsen show his face at the point last Tuesday.
Last year Greg had a pretty big stroke. And he said to me, "last year was a pretty hard year for me"
Great to see you back on the stone my friend.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jul 23, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
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Gregg is the sh#t. Inspiring in so many ways. Glad to know him as a friend/musician/climber.
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Beta-pete
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Jul 27, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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That "Freeway Crack" went free, laybacking at stout 5.10, when I did it with Mike Guardino back in '86. It had been free climbed for many years. Then the Gargoyle & I pushed a new little thing up the face above, naming it "The G-Spot", which ticked in at mid-ish 5.11. We set up a TR on both using Lost Arrows I drove into the scant cracks on the summit block. I removed the pins, so there was no fixed anchor. The Freeway crack is one of the best of its kind for Stoney Point, nestled in the afternoon shade far from the crowds and hidden from the highway noise. Since very few have climbed it, it is free of the grease many of the other cracks hold in the back canyons of the main area to the south. Combining the layback crack with "The G Spot" makes for a long-ish, pumpy climb that would be very popular...were it not for the location and the lack of a convenient anchor.
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Beta-pete
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Jul 27, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Back in 1987 a new 5.12 TR went up on the overhanging wall left of "The Prow". Quickly, "Vicious" became rather popular, for it offered a place to work the power needed to go "up", which was not to be found in the countless traverse routes common to the area. We'd wait for the cool afternoon shade and run laps on it for power-endurance training. My record was 5, and the object was to lower as fast as possible to minimize the "rest" between laps. Mike "Gargoyle" Gardino, John "Yabo" Yablonski and I made the FA of a route that shared the start with "Vicious", but headed up a dark ramp up and left. "Walk the Plank" ticked in at 5.12-, but unlike its neighbor, the top was a series of insecure moves on inobvious slopers...it never became popular. Here's a shot from 1989 of me running lapse on "Vicious". I hear the place is infested with nasty bees...sounds like time to get the exterminator![photoid=369868]
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 07:59am PT
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thank's beta pete
Back in 1987 a new 5.12 TR went up on the overhanging wall left of "The Prow". Quickly, "Vicious" became rather popular, for it offered a place to work the power needed to go "up", which was not to be found in the countless traverse routes common to the area.
the back wall area is awesome!
Mike Waugh added/replaced the bolts for ease of Tr set up.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 28, 2014 - 10:03am PT
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Pete.... The Freeway now has some bolts up on top... one need some long runners to rig it properly.
some photos way up thread.
thanks for posting....
do you ever get back to the SFV?
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Beta-pete
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Jul 28, 2014 - 10:39am PT
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This image better shows the overhanging nature of "Vicious". Here is Peter Hayes entering the crux on a lap session one afternoon back in the fall of 1989. "Walk the Plank", .12-, confronts the bald face above the little black pillar at the end of the "ramp" to the left. The Gargoyle, Yabo & Peter did the FA of that in the same year, but it never achieved the popularity of "Vicious", the climb that shared its start.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 12, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
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The Sea Breeze started kicking up about 2:30 today in Chatsworth.
Takes the EDGE ofF of the heat.
Hope to see you all - esp FAROUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 13, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
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Some hard stuff on that back wall. Every few years or so some chalk appears.
Watched an out-of-town guy onsight lead that disintegrating flared crack. He was goooooood. (late 80's)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2014 - 07:31am PT
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spider top rope season is right around the corner ill let ya know!
which crack do u speak of?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 14, 2014 - 08:27am PT
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The flared one that is greased with ancient bee's wax. Only goes up about 20 ft. You gotta be damn strong.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2014 - 10:24am PT
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ok kool! the back area has some old obscure climbs..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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Farouk..... don't know, top ropin anit Bouldering.
All the girls were bouldering at B1 and Turlock... That is where I was hanging.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Pyro... We are looking to do a hot dog BBQ maybe next thursday, 21 or the next 28.... think you could make it on one of those dates??
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 15, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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There is a good chance I might make it there on the 21st but not the 28th.
More Tuolumne for a week starting the 28th.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
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It will be on THURSDAY 8-21-2014
I will make preparations.
Any body have a lap-top? We could show the Stoney Point DVD.
If one has never been to one of these little BBQ's you need:
Bring your own dogs, and Buns.
Bring a side dish. Chips, Salsa, whatever you want to share.
I will have extra, Mustard, Relish, etc....
And a BBQ, Table....
BEER IS A MUST
see you all.
EDIT TO GET THE DATE CORRECT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 18, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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Eric has pledged his BBQ....
So now its really ON
tell your friends.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
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i'm sure the Zamboni could contribute some fresh ice to this BBQ party!!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 19, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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Pyro.... bring some of the sweet figure skater ice,,, not the pink smelly IceHockey Ice...
OK...C ya
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 19, 2014 - 08:49pm PT
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I'm hungry
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 20, 2014 - 09:15am PT
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Tad...
Stoney Point is pretty unique, Bishop has a community of climbers and Berkley also.
The Riverside Quarry is the go to spot in the IE
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 20, 2014 - 05:14pm PT
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Tad the Quarry is a fun place....
but super scary, I always feel like I am hanging out in a danger zone.
So if you get down this way... come on out to SP, see what you missed.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2014 - 06:09am PT
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ive gots a large ice chest full of fresh figure skaters ice!
how much beer do we need?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 21, 2014 - 06:17am PT
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Mucho!
I need my bowl full of beer.
Bo was a good beer drinker.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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I've got's a loong pole for some Go-pro shot'z!
Fresh ice coming up!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 21, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
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So you driving the Zamboni all the way to Stoney??
That is a lot of ice.
Going to go in about 1 hour.... I have a charcoal BBQ, it will take some time for it to cook down.
7 ish at Boulder one.
hope to see a whole bunch of you.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2014 - 10:31pm PT
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Family photo summer 2014
BBQ fest at Stoney point this evening!
Thank's guy for bring on the Hot dog BBQ!
took a few-thousand pics. i'll post when i can..
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Aug 22, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Wow this is so cool to see the tradition kept alive!! Really sad I couldn't make it. Hopefully next time!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 22, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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Gotta get out to Stoney on a Tuesday night and get my weenie roasted while bouldering.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 22, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
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Great to see everyone! BTW we found a La Sportiva shoe left behind. Anyone???
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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BBQ Summer party!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2014 - 02:25pm PT
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This guy named Andrew live's at Stoney!
He only shows up when his nose points him to a good day!
He parked himself right at the bottom of our boulder problem!
we said okay andrew well hook u up with a hot dog but you have to be apart of the Stoney Point BBQ phot shoot!
Good job andrew!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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Anyways!
Nic on B-one boulder.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
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some more from b1 boulder!
Nice job Spencer!
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Aug 22, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
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Too CLASSIC! Love the shots Pyro...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 22, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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NA_Kid .... we missed you, too.
Good shots Pyro, really like the angle from the pole.
Spencer on Pink Floyd....to cool.
Man those young kids, they keep getting stronger n stronger.
Nick is on the Crack Direct, right?
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Aug 22, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
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Yup, went to Malibu Creek. Nice and cool there, plus I saw some old dudes there with odd names like Levy and Meathead... Such strange climbers out there these days. Watch out!
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Aug 22, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2014 - 08:26am PT
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best picture award!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 23, 2014 - 09:33am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 23, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Aug 23, 2014 - 11:01am PT
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A little video from one of the first Stoney BBQ's.
"Demons, Dogs and Dynos"
https://vimeo.com/25387048
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Aug 23, 2014 - 11:05am PT
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We missed you Cole!!
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Aug 23, 2014 - 11:07am PT
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Thanks Rincon! Missed you guys too! You'll have to come out to the dez with Guy sometime this season and do some Jtree crushin.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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I saw some old dudes there with odd names like Levy and Meathead... Such strange climbers out there these days. Watch out!
You missed the BBQ for Malibu!?!
BBQ got me away from malibu
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 24, 2014 - 01:32am PT
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Jordan what you be thinking?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 27, 2014 - 01:38pm PT
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I think most of Stoney is going to be at Tuolumne this week.
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nickamudd1
climber
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Anyone know if it rained at stoney this morning?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dunno bout the rain...but I do know my left "pointer" toe has 2 fractures and I wont be back to climbing for another 5 weeks =(
ACK!!!
Im a goin crazy
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nick.... It did not rain enuf to matter, I drove by at 7:30 .... Topanga was dry, Looked to me the rain was more to the south... Congo Park had wet streets.
Matty.... sucks for you. going to miss out on prime walling season?
I am going to miss tuesday this week.... the KS show is at the SCMA meeting.... tuesday, 9/9/2014
hope to see you all
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Matty that blows wtf.
It's to hot and humid to boulder today - you'll all need to go with Guyman to see Kris.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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I can't make it down for Kris's show tonight so I'm expecting to hear about it from all of you Stoney Pointers.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 10, 2014 - 06:42am PT
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Well?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 10, 2014 - 07:40am PT
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Don't look at me, I'm in Utah this week!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 10, 2014 - 08:13am PT
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OK you are off the hook.
But that's the last I'm in Utah excuse I'm excepting today.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2014 - 08:25am PT
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frumy can't wait to show u Bu's Big wednesday pictures!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 10, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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Standing room only.
The mob started to get out of hand as the discussion turned into a hang dog vs real men sort of a climber argument.
When the women in the audience started to remove clothes in protest, the men followed suit, security was called in, that escalated to a full blown SWAT team entrance.
Kris being the cool head that he is, was able to get the SWAT boys to agree that 5.12 in Josh is much more difficult than any 5.14 in RED ROCKs….this caused howls of laughter from the masses, who were in complete agreement.
I was lucky to get out alive.
You should have been there.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 10, 2014 - 10:41am PT
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Damn, I always miss the good stuff.
Who got shot? If swat was called someone got shot.
Not a chance their putting on all that gear & not shooting someone. You can't blame them.
Maybe the removal of clothing through them for a loop. I can't blame them for that.
Thank god Kris keep his head.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 10, 2014 - 11:34am PT
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Maybe the removal of clothing through them for a loop
Yes, especially when their badges passed through - there were definitely some grimaces.
Before SWAT arrived Kris took questions from the rabble and it was pretty
obvious that he had some ringers in the crowd, like Chelsea, who served up
some juicy batting practice fastballs that showed that none of the fences
were deep enough.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 10, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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Now I'm pissed that I missed the show.
That will learn me.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2014 - 11:16am PT
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damn! missed the photo shoot..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 15, 2014 - 10:18am PT
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It's Stoney there will always be another photo shoot.
Did you take Bu surfing?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 15, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
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Wow.... right now its like 102 .... in Chatsworth!!!!!
Global Warming is REAL, I guess.
I bet that Farouk dude is sending, right now.
Hot n Greasey
Greasy n Hot
take your pick
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 15, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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I hope Weld_it is bolting the earth together
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 22, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
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OK... So this is what is going to be the new way to teach climbing????
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 23, 2014 - 08:22am PT
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Am BUMP and DEATH to KUMAR.... WTF?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:16am PT
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I hope you said something or at least laughed out loud while holding your gut & pointed at them.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 23, 2014 - 09:23am PT
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Did they untape the route? How will I know where the holds are as I go for the second?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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Mark.... Katiekorn took shot... I think they just walked on by... you know one can see alot of weirdness going on around those parts.
What I can't figgure out is this... the tape is marking all the wrong holds, so maybe they are playing around with "off root holds"...
Time to sick pyro on them...
and to edit: It was almost cold this am.... about time.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2014 - 11:38am PT
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Time to sick pyro on them...
no problem guyman!
I've never seen such a thing..
p.s. tomorrow at Malibu pier 'BIG WEDNESDAY 2014" slide show!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
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Spam Bump .....
It has been nice n cool the last few days, time to do some stoney.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Sep 24, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
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Bump spam
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
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maybe!
I wanna traverse
I've been craving traverse!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 24, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
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Traverse with Garlic & Mustard is real good.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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Cosmic.... so how did you like the schmeckelhorn????
And when are YOU going to come on out to SP?
we can burn up the place in your honor....
FAROUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
U CLIMBING TODAY???????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!??????????????
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Oct 16, 2014 - 08:11am PT
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Temps are going down, but the psyche is high!
Spencer Josif going Direct on Umma Gumma.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 16, 2014 - 08:54am PT
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Cant wait to get back out!!! My broken toe is almost better and climbing is just around the corner. I've started hiking again and doing trail runs. another week or two maybe before I'll be back at stoney. Miss you all. Going to do a sierra peak this weekend or scope an approach for this winter (Moonage Daydream anyone??)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 16, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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It is going to be deliciously cool this pm… see you all at Stoney.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 16, 2014 - 10:54am PT
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Are you sure that tape isn't there just to keep the holds from coming off?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 16, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Are you sure that tape isn't there just to keep the holds from coming off?
Nope.... we tryed that, they still fall off.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 16, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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It's cause you didn't use double sided tape.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 02:23pm PT
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Keep the history coming!
keep the update pictures coming!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 27, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
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Pyro, the holds all fell off --- even tape didn't help. It's over - kaput all gone.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
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whats the problem frumy u gonna deactivate?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
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It's not me it's the holds they all fell off.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2014 - 07:11am PT
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just make some holds!
ill have to find some sandstone rocks!
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M Brady
Boulder climber
Oregon City, OR
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Oct 28, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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I miss Stoney!!! I have climbed all over the west and I lived in Bishop for 4 years but Stoney is still the sh#t!! Crystal Ball Mantle, Crowd Pleaser, Split Desicion, Rollercoaster, Earthquake Problem are all problems I consider to be on the top of my list.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 28, 2014 - 10:52am PT
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M Brady..... WORD.
Its getting dark quite early this time of year... I guess you could say its the END of The Season...
But thats not true, the place is busy 24/7/365....
there were cars parked at 7am, on a tuesday, Maybe it was Lance, D or Katie..... getting a morning session in, before work.
Pretty handy place to have in your back yard.
jes saying
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 28, 2014 - 11:13am PT
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Sir.... That would be my pleasure.
Anytime, I could play hooky from work.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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Just remember I am a sloppy bag of broken bones and surgical scars...
that's it i'm requesting to deactive the dingus acct!!!!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 28, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
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Let us know if you come DMT, I'd love to say hi in person ;)
Cheers
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Oct 28, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
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Guy, you won't have to play hooky, he said "Sat or Sun" so yer good!
DMT you really have to be there on a Tues or Thursday evening to get to real Stoney experience and meet the locals. Unfortunately with the time change that scene gets messed up, since a lot of folks don't get off work until after 4pm. But weekends are still good, especially if you hang with Guyzo!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 29, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
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DMT, give Guy a little time to get all those holds taped back up.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 30, 2014 - 10:40am PT
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FRUMMY you need to get me some very stickey tape.
and get down here and help.
Anyway..... this is the last day of the summer season, sad sort of, but good to know the winter is comming and maybe some rain might be in our future.
Stoney sure could use a good soak, so that the "greener than real grass" will grow back along with the flowers.
See you all for the sunset.
Los Toros tonite????
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 30, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
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Head out for the last day before it gets dark early!!
Wish i could go now but I have a dentist at 4:30 and an errend to run but should make it by 6ish. Hope to see you all there sharing stories past sunset.
I'll be there all winter too ...but only cuz I can be there by 4 and get a nice distraction free session in before it gets too cold/dark.
Cheers
Matt
Dang...just occurred we should have tried for a time change BBQ today. Oh well...maybe first thur after the time changes back. Save the date March 12!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Take down that CLOSED sign PYRO...
It going to be like 89F today and that greener than green grass is starting to grow.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Jaffe? Where is he now? Hope you'll post up more photos from that period. Adidis... great shoe.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Paul... Last time I saw his face was at the 2004? Stonemaster Reunion.
I think he is still living in Santa Barbara, married, kid(s) life...
Yes those are classic RED DOT models, funny- Addias now owns 5.10.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Paul, did you know this lad????
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Oh yeah... great climber and really nice guy. Was working at wilderness experience if I remember right. Sure wish I'd taken more pics back in the day.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Raining Hard..... 2nd day of pure soak.
We need it to go on and on....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Dec 14, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 14, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
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Wow musta been the wind. Too bad that branch gave nice shade. To many changes in the trees near B2/Turlock the last year.
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
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Dec 14, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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That must be the most dramatic sling toss. Epic!
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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Dec 14, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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Didn't know climbing had so much running involved.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2014 - 07:55am PT
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Thanks for the update Yafer!
free firewood!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 15, 2014 - 09:24am PT
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Say what you will about her video but I like it, good lighting for the most part you can she she is an actual climber from her movements and the rest of it is just there to look good for the hollywood types that want "climbing" on a resume (it is after all a promotional short, not a climbing vid). I'll give her a spot/belay any day, seems like a cool cat.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 15, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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Jeff thank you for running off the climbers yesterday.
I can't believe one of them wanted to fight you!!!!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Dec 16, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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Sorry Dingus, Stoney is closed for the duration.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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Hi, all. Stoney is still closed!
Last nite, Wednesday 12-17, we got another much needed soaking.
Off work today due to some stomach issue, so I had the time to scan some photos that Banney Root took last November- On Real Film!
Sam E and Brandon thinks this might be a new one. It is located just to the right of the Amphitheater and is just left of the 10a overhanging crack.
I told em that Kevin Thaw or Mike Waugh might have done it.
If you know anything about this one please speak up.
Sunny dayz will come back soon enuf, enjoy the rain.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Dec 18, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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Sweet pics Guy!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Dec 18, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Dameat told me Kevin Thaw did a dyno to the horizontal. So just another RA at Stoney. Good climbing.
And Guy, that's Brandon in those pics.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Dec 18, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
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Nice one Brandon! Post # 2222!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 19, 2014 - 09:41am PT
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Nice
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 19, 2014 - 10:02am PT
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Ok, sorry for the wrong name.
You know me, all the young studs, who pull all the hard boulder problems LOOK the same to me.... shiny white knights, with Bachar bodies.
Sorry Brandon, I owe you lunch.
But I have something more pressing....
On my way to work, this am, on wet streets, there were about 9 cars pulled up to the side of Stony. I saw packs on peoples backs, no pads, I didn't have time to stop and check out what was going on.
I suspect a "meet up" group or maybe one of the GUIDE services who use the place, although I didn't see the marked SUV/VAN/Vehicle they usually use.
I am not familiar with the "meet up" listings. If any of you folks are, please let me know the links, and I will let em know when the point is closed.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 19, 2014 - 11:04am PT
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Rincon... Zero Neon Lycra spotted, so I don't think it was them. THX
maybe there to wash off old chalk, or look for birds or just to walk around, I hope.
Frummy, you need to move back down here Stony need a guardian.
You to Rincon....
thanks
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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Katie all types of climbers around stoney and Malibu..
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 23, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
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Windy out there today. Patagonia would have been good training for Stoney!
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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Dec 23, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
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So, I am wondering something.
If I roll up to Stoney on a rainy day. Some self appointed person is going to tell me I can't be there. Really!!
Hot Tuna is still dry as well as a few others.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Dec 23, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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Got there as the sun was setting tonight. Thanks to the washing and the wind the rock was like Velcro. Only saw one other climber. Cody from San Luis Obispo, down visiting family for Christmas. It was his first time at Stoney.
To answer OWWOR's question:
If I see someone there right after a rain, I start up a conversation and mention the friability of the rock. If they seems like they know what's up, cool. If ignorant, I inform. With emphasis on how lame it would be to bust holds off a classic.
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Dec 24, 2014 - 08:43am PT
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From the ACCESS FUND website:
Stoney Point Crag Clean Up
Saturday, Mar 14, 2015
Stoney Point is one of the oldest and most easily accessible sport climbing areas in the region, and provides many opportunities for bouldering, sport top rope, and some traditional free climbing. It is very frequently used by many climbers in the area. However, if you have been there lately, there is an abundance of garbage and it is in a significant state of disrepair. A little TLC would go a long way to making the place more enjoyable again.
Meet at the dirt road next to the horse stables, pick up garbage bags and break out into groups. Clean for a couple hours, enjoy some pizza, and then climb the day away!
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/stoney-point/105870979
You love the Point..........be there!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 24, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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Merry Christmas, You all!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 26, 2014 - 08:31am PT
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....Stoney Point is one of the oldest and most easily accessible sport climbing areas in the region....
rr ... with all due respect, Stoney Point IS NOT A SPORTCLIMBING AERA
at all. Access Fund gets it wrong, again. And the place has never been cleaner, ever, thanks to a whole bunch of local climbers/boulderers who take pretty good care of the place.
The event is most welcomed, because picking up trash is always a good thing to do.
cheers
OWWOR asked:
If I roll up to Stoney on a rainy day. Some self appointed person is going to tell me I can't be there. Really!!
OK to be there, get your feet muddy, pick up trash, scrub off chalk, but if you start climbing pot-hole, TRing on Beethoven or Pink Drips....then
Hopefully, someone will talk to you about the wetness and the destruction you will cause.
Sort of like what we did with the boys who showed up one day with brand new pads, shoes and a Hammer and Chisel, we set then straight.
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Dec 26, 2014 - 10:27am PT
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If you roll up to Stoney on a rainy day, you'll probably have the place to yourself. And you can still "climb" Hot Tuna, Sculptors Traverse, or a few other overhanging climbs. I've climbed at Stoney in full on downpours before, and got totally pumped and had a blast! Just stay off anything that's wet. For many climbers it's too hard to follow that simple rule though, so in general, most self appointed people will recommend that people just stay away until it drys out.
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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Dec 26, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
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I climbed there from 1981 until 2008 when I moved to Ventura.
I know the game. I don't what bothered me so much about the statement.
//" But I have something more pressing....
//
On my way to work , //, on wet streets, there were about 9 cars pulled up to the side of Stony. I saw packs on peoples backs, no pads, I didn't have time to stop and check out what was going on.
I suspect a "meet up" group or maybe one of the GUIDE services who use the place, although I didn't see the marked SUV/VAN/Vehicle they usually use.
I am not familiar with the "meet up" listings. If any of you folks are, please let me know the links, and I will let em know when the point is closed. "
//
The Point isn't CLOSED! Maybe it's the self appointed ruler of the land mind thought that bothers me so much. Who do you think you are Kim Jong-un.
Stoney point is a Los Angeles City Park, there for all to enjoy. When one group of users thinks they own the place and take matters in their own hand is when it could cause a problem with the city. Maybe a less confrontational way to get your point across would be better. Maybe post a sign at each entrance explaining why it isn't a good idea to use the rock while it is wet. I would not be surprised if the city park department would help with this.
I would encourage everybody to visit Stoney Point on a rainy day. It is pretty cool place when it's raining. Just don't climb or rap on wet rock.
During one rainy day a friend of mine and I aid climbed inside of the train tunnel. I also built walls under the 118 at Tampa. Yes that was me.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 26, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
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The Point isn't CLOSED! Maybe it's the self appointed ruler of the land mind thought that bothers me so much. Who do you think you are Kim Jong-un.
I am trying to continue the work of Bob Kamps. Bob kept track of the place, he had the phone number to city Parks and Rec, filming division.... I have that phone number now. Film crews must follow the guidelines, no painting on the stone, pick up all litter, no changing of the stones....
The biggest threat now are large groups, like RockClimbEveryday....and other guide services who might not respect, or even know about soft sandstone, and what might happen if they pull on it when its wet.
So I'm sorry if you got a bone stuck in your craw about a "self appointed ruler"... but im not the only one who cares enuf to stop and ask film crews for the permit or to go jump on clueless guides who are only out to make $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
My name is Guy Keesee, I reckon you have no name, cause you only post under some Avatar, and have added no climbing content to the Taco.
Peace to you, Happy Climbing.
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
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Dec 26, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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Guy I think I know you. When you started climbing did you climb with a guy named Pete?
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
Ventura
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Dec 27, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
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Still waiting for your answer.
Just to keep this friendly, ............OH fu00ck. Just go climb in the rain witch is when I first meet you. If you don't know who this is by now you well never know.
mmm
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2014 - 07:54am PT
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hey walk on rocks dude ur lame cuzz u won't tell anybody who u are...
You should join us for hotdogs one day and the crew will explain why u don't go to stoney on rainy days...
edit:
Sort of like what we did with the boys who showed up one day with brand new pads, shoes and a Hammer and Chisel, we set then straight
guyman that was a trip! I might have that picture give me some time ill find it..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 28, 2014 - 10:17am PT
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Onewho walks... I might know you, I know a ton of folks, many live in Ventura.
Before you get all upset, please go and reread the part that got you so upset..... I never said don't go there, its closed. What I really mean is this... don't try to climb on the rocks.
And yes I climbed with Peter....
Tons of times, he was one of the roommates.
And Mr. Pete Hayes.... but I unfortunately have no pictures of the Master of Maggies Farm.
But OWWOR, if I had to guess who you are, I will need to buy another VOWEL....
Im a little confused cause you have posted some of T-Fish's photos.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 11:34am PT
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we got trolled!
Happy holiday's and happy new year Stoney pointers!!!!
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Dec 29, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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Dear Stoney Point Locals,
I've climbed at Stoney a few times and really enjoy it; good fun and some awesome bouldering and roped climbs. What are the current bolting ethics at Stoney Point? I climbed on a rope there for the first time last week on Wednesday and noticed that there are a lot of missing anchors at the tops of climbs (holes, bolts without hangers, chopped bolts, etc.). There were solid anchors at the top of many climbs, but wondering why there are so many missing. Is it "vandalism" to the anchors by the throngs of hikers out there or loosening of the mechanical anchors over time because of the soft sandstone or...?
Is the addition of toprope anchors unwanted by local climbers? What about lead bolts for sport-climbing? I saw a comment above that this area is not a sport climbing area. Is this because of the short life-span of mechanical anchors in the sandstone? Would it still be opposed if solid glue-ins were used like they should be used in sandstone?
Thanks, Aaron
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 29, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
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Oso.... for some reason, that I can't figure out, some TRs get good bolts. Some, maybe older classic TR's where the "pro" requires about 60 feet of webbing tied to bushes, dead trees, sandy cracks and the likes... must be protected with the OLD school method. If these get bolts on top, they are removed quickly.... by I don't know who.
The empty holes are testament to the bolt wars that have gone on in the past..... Climber A hates Climber B cause Climber B put in bolts on top of XXXXX so Climber A chops em pissing off Climber B who returns the favor.... this has gone on many many times. It never ends in till Climber A, dies, gets married, or moves to another state or Climber B followes the same path..... sort of like War, pointless.
Some of the holes/chopped bolts were put in by movie projects and ether chopped later or chopped by the movie makers.
When they made 20 seconds of "Cliffhanger" their, the riggers put in lots of bolts, that were all chopped later, by locals.
Back in the mid eighties, some wanted to make the good climbs into sport climbs... check out the prow of Beethoven.... nice deep drilled 1/2 holes just ready to stick glueins in... that was stopped by near unanimous uprising by the active locals. The make sportclimbs voices are now in the minority, they can and did, go to Malibu to do that.
Some placements were made to facilitate slack lining, these are usually left in place/alone if no climbs are effected.
Rappelling bolts and anchors are always removed except for the ones at the top of The Jesus Wall.
Some bolts get placed for Top Rope anchors and they stay.... top of Mozart's wall....maybe a good example of Climber A passing on, so nobody cares anymore.
Bottom line.... its hard to figure. I never bring the drill to SP, although after 42 seasons climbing there, I reckon I could be a good judge of whats right and whats wrong, but I wont even try.
Maybe in a decade or two....
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Dec 29, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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Guyman,
Thanks for the info, I'll do likewise, keeping the drill at home and just bring gear and a static line to set up topropes. That place could have some sweet sport climbing however.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 29, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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That place could have some sweet sport climbing however.
agree... 100%
I am sure some would disagree....
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:59am PT
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Thanks for update yafer..
hope climber is okay..
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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I don't know about sport climbs at Stoney. Except for Jesus Wall everthing is pretty short.
I think if someone had it together and really crafted a good quality route, it would remain. But I can't think of where that would be.
I did lead Savage Slab one time (hence the name). Severely run-out on a couple of manky 1/4 inch bolts. If that buttress was sewn up with SS 4" bolts that were set to take a pounding, it might get climbed once in awhile and no one would be bothered by the improvements.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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No it wasn't Guy.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Hell of a way to start the new year. Hope all turns out okay.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Not me...
Hard to call that side of Turlok, bouldering... its about 30 feet down!!!!
I always think of that stuff as Free-soloing.
but I'm not dead...Yet, but I have had my doubts, the last 4 days hiding under the covers with some sort of flu.... have been hell.
Happy new year to all.
March 8th..... mark your calenders---- Daylight savings time begins.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Hoping that someone found my Acopa Spectres by the Pileups. I was climbing Tuesday 12/22 and left after dark. My shoes didn't make it back into my pack.
Thanks,
Sam
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 12, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
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Sam, any luck with the shoes? I'm going to be around the 18th - the 20th.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Jan 12, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
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OT a look back in time to one of the greats. Tom Gilje. On Leave It To Beaver 5.12, Joshua Tree, Ca. Check out his EB's and socks! I was one of those people...so long ago it seems now...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2015 - 08:06am PT
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nice pic yafer!
were you also one of those that would walk around with a piece of carpet!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 13, 2015 - 08:25am PT
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No luck with the shoes. They're an offering to Stoney now.
Wind coming. Rock will be nice and dry in a couple days.
Mark, I'll have your sheriff's hat and some Old Rasputin waiting!
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Jan 13, 2015 - 06:20pm PT
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I never did that little piece of carpet thing.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
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I did..too bad no pictures..
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 13, 2015 - 09:17pm PT
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Great shot of Mike Waugh, Guyman.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 15, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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Thank you Mr E.... he is a pretty happy man these days. The smile shows it.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 15, 2015 - 01:58pm PT
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Guy,
Say hi to Waugh for me the next time you see him, I used to work with him on the LAFD back in the day, good to see him still kicking. I work at a fire station over in Shadow Hills now and don't get over to Stoney much these days.
Tell him Kevin Mokracek says hi.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 15, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
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Kevin ....Will do. Did you usta work at 96? They do the SP broken body pick up.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 17, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
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Guy,
No I worked at 103 on Parthenia and Lindley for a bit, spent most of my 28 years in South Central and East LA, I'm slugging it in Shadow Hills until retirement in less than 2 years.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2015 - 07:44pm PT
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u rock Batrock!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 21, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
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Good day yesterday was.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 22, 2015 - 09:16am PT
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Sam E ..... thanks for postin this, a V10!!!
Now I know where to take visitors who ask "Where are the V9 to V11s?"
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 22, 2015 - 09:35am PT
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Sweet...Good job Daniel!!!! I know I've looked at that one before but it will be fun to look again now. I'll be out at stoney again soon, took a break over the holidays and wrapped up in a new car search at the moment. miss you all, see you soon I hope.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Jan 22, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Hey Kevin, want to help out with new routes?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 23, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 23, 2015 - 09:34am PT
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Is that Steve?
Brad on the Corner problem, B1 boulder.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 23, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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Sam did that get mounted???
I'm trying to get a crew together and video all of the way cool Bob problems.... Craig can remember Bobs circut and point out the correct "out of bounds" holds.
I need to line up some good climbers to do this... and a video camera.
We can talk when daylight savings returns.... in less than 7 weeks.
I'll give out free hotdogs.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 24, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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Guy, it's up at Potholes.
Count me in for the Kamps Mantle! All four ways!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 24, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Nice monument for Bob there. What's the Kamp's Mantle exactly? If somebody had a piece of carpet we would share it. I know I picked up dirt like Bob.....a Kamps lesson? That could not have been pre-chalk days could it? Maybe just days when chalk supply was low.
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Jan 24, 2015 - 11:23am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
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What's the Kamp's Mantle exactly?
Dan... its one of those mantles where strength is not what one needs, its balance and flexibility. Bob had all of these problems where he took one or more holds off.... changed the climbing a whole bunch and required skill. On some others, some special technique was needed, I remember one where you needed to drop your hip- after you make the grab- so you would not barn door off of the holds. When he taught me that, my whole world changed....
Miss you Bob, you would love the energy that is now happening at Stoney.
And when I drove by today at 5:45..... it was raining hard... the 1 inch/hour hard, that we need.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:55pm PT
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New v10 at Stoney!? So dope! I remember Daniel showing me some of those moves years ago..glad to see he's still pushing the standards out at The Point.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Bonnie Kamps visited the Bob Kamps remembrance plaque at Stoney Point for the first time on Monday, February 2nd, going to it with Andy Lichtman and Tom Higgins, both longtime friends of Bonnie and Bob. Pic by Bonnie.
Fittingly, a group of young climbers came to the plaque just when we all were about to leave and got to hear a bit of Bob history. Bob lives on.
The plaque sits at the base of a wall Bob traversed for his work outs, often climbing back and forth several times. His top number of traverses without stop is 26 as memorialized in the number on the bottom of the plaque.
We had good strong memories of Bob and our times at Stoney with him. I will always remember Bob, climbing partner, friend, mentor, fierce competitor on the boulders too, witty and fit to the end.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Monday Stoney Bump
Thinking of Bob
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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Bring on that daylight savings.... tuesdays in the dark until then. Cheers.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2015 - 11:21am PT
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guyman was there a Bob kamps memorial just recently?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 10, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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Every Day.....
Pyro... the monument was set up.
Over by pot-holes, the "26" on the plaque is his record number of laps on pot holes....
Im going there today after work, I can get in about 20 min on the old man circuit... all sub V deals. You now qualify!!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 11, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
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Climb on.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
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stoney was bombed by some Honda commercial?
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Feb 12, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 12, 2015 - 09:57pm PT
|
Nice photo of the M.L. crack. it very well could be the best crack in Los Angeles. That was a great send today!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2015 - 08:35am PT
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it very well could be the best hand crack Los angeles! Maybe it is maybe it aint!
Los Angeles is a big place dude!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 13, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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Ryan, what other cracks would you consider to be among the best in los angeles county? It's a pretty short list.
Possible candidates:
Electromagnetic Crack - 5.10d ** This 60' corner crack is near Acton, and takes cams to 2".
Crack Dealer - 5.10d * this crack is in Malibu Creek State Park just before you get to the stumbling blocks. A short 5.8 approach pitch leads to this overhanging hand crack. Cams to 3.5" with extra 2 to 3 inch.
Unknown name - 5.10b * Crack on Piuma Pinnacle. This crack is nice but a sloppily glued hold low on the route detracts from what would be a nice climb, plus the funky eye bolts from a hardware store reduce the stoke significantly, IMHO. No gear needed, it's bolted!!
Several nice short cracks up at Horse Flats exist too.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 13, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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Bill.... What's that one out close to Nellis ?????
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 13, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
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Guy, you're thinking of the Electromagnetic Crack.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 13, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
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PYRO, what can I say - first you are part of Honda blowing Stoney to pieces - then you call Bill DUDE.
That surfing stuff is fine but you need to get back on the rock & get yourself together.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 17, 2015 - 07:11pm PT
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Feb 18, 2015 - 12:11am PT
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HAHAHA!
Pyro and levy arguing about cracks in LA!
I vote Mugu rock!
Levy, Isn't that thing at Malibu like 20 ft long?
How about the roof crack at the overpass bridge?
or the one in the parking garage???
Pyro has been smoking too much surf wax...
I know Levy has been to every crack in LA and never once did I hear him talk about anything worthwhile, so for his mention of the ML crack, I agree. Sight unseen.
I'm headed out to some 100 ft basalt splitters this weekend at Frog Buttress.
I will let y'all know if It's worthwhile.
Cheers and beers!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 18, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Good to hear from ya.....NA KID.... how about some pics of Frog???
It was pretty nice at SP after work, the sun is starting to stay out longer... and the summer like evening had some staying late.
Pyro it would be gud to see your face, Hot Dog party on its way soon.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2015 - 01:02pm PT
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Dude!
Edit:
Guyman what did you do to elcapazz?
Levy u know I love you but agree with the Martian crack..
we shuld dig out 20ft then ull get best crack award..
My favorite in LA is cave crack at stoney
Point mugu is in a class of it own.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 18, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
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Guyman what did you do to elcapazz?
Pyro... I don't know I was in Phoenix for like 4 days....
I went to the Beardsley Boulders and did some problems .... sort of like Stoney, you can tell it was an old time partyspot with lots of 1970 beer can pull tabs, broken glass, old fire rings and assorted trash.....
I felt right at home.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2015 - 01:36pm PT
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That's classic Guyman!
Best crack in LA
fell down in 1996.
route named open book at pt mugu.
the thing took pieces made me fell like a lead rock climber.
I had aid climbed it 3 days before it decomposed to shattered chunks at base.
puma pinnacle never heard of it!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
this redbolt tower Flake hand crack is a shorty but goooody!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 18, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
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I am pretty sure that point Mugu is in Ventura County. So it wouldn't qualify as being in LA County
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 18, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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I don't no Levy I live in Inyo county & it's all owned by L.A. county. Just cause something isn't in L.A. doesn't mean it isn't part of L.A.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Feb 18, 2015 - 05:06pm PT
|
The Red Bolt Buttress...
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Feb 18, 2015 - 10:23pm PT
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Just cause something isn't in L.A. doesn't mean it isn't part of L.A.
Nominated for best quote of 2015
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 07:14am PT
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can't argue about this crack climb...
It's historical appeal gives it a number 1 vote..
that Dude Ken boch is one of original mayors of stoney...
Edit:
North L.A is referred to PT Mugu...
levy come smoke some surf wax this afternoon at tic rock..
medusa will provide...
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Feb 19, 2015 - 09:07am PT
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After the dust settled, this is what was left:
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Feb 19, 2015 - 09:38am PT
|
Hey Ryan, is that Flood on the Jesus Wall crack?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
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Yafer I introduce you to Boodawg aka Ken boch.
mike flood etc were in diapers...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 20, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
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Too funny ^^^^FloodJeff which dog is this?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 20, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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Where at Stoney is M.L. Crack?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2015 - 11:31am PT
|
Peter Hayes on viscous!
Peter Hayes along with the Goyl were the first to set
up top rope at apes wall..
Bob Kamp is credited with the traverse at apes.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 23, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
|
Dad.... ML is at The Martin Landing site..... across street, in the little park, by the town homes before the church. Just drive up the road to TH and park. There are 5 fifth class towers- not boulders..... I climbed one, dragging the rope ala Gritstone style....at the top is some sort of landing craft ring used for supporting the spaceship, the Martians needed to jettison it so their craft would be light enuf to return to Mars. Sort of like our lunar lander on the moon. The crack is around the back side of the place- down low.
enjoy
Jeff which dog is this?
Boo...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 23, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
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Yep
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Feb 24, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
|
Bo. I was gonna say Sol...now I realize you were playing off Ryan's reference.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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Scubbing ur probably right!
Stoney point climbers!
guide book author Chris Owens is updating the Urban Rock!.. 4th edition!
Anybody who has historical knowledge of F.A let him know or post up!
having the aid of the internet most historical data can corrected!
calling Boodawg, Russ Mclean (lifeisabivouac)and Dennis Heenek Etc..
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 04:56pm PT
|
hi Bob!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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That's the truth.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
|
I like that Red Bolt Tower post.
I have taught kids to lead using the crack system there on the left up to the tree. It's pretty easy but that is perfect for concentration on how to place nuts and stuff.
Never noticed the bolts on the end of the prow. They may be new... to me.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Feb 28, 2015 - 12:09am PT
|
Pyro - Love the video bro! Especially the commentary at the end. Way to represent!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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Thanks Cole!
heard ur doing a great job out there!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Pyro... thanks for the tour.
only a few DAYS left till Day-Light Savings..............
Hot Dog Time.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2015 - 08:25am PT
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Fan
climber
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Today is the tenth anniversary of Bob Kamps's death.
We had a soggy winter in 2005. Stoney Point was off limits to climbers. On March second Bob went to the climbing gym. On his way out the door he kissed me goodbye, gave a sheepish grin, and said, "A man has to do what a man has to do."
Somewhere I read that a person lives on until there is no one left to remember them. In that sense, for those who knew and loved him, Bob lives on.
A plaque has appeared at Stoney Point to honor him. My first visit was with Tom Higgins and Andrew Lichtman. They were both teenagers when they first climbed with Bob. For them he was all three, inspiration, mentor and friend. That went beyond climbing.
Last Monday, with rain threatening, I went again with our niece, Monica Kamps Lobenstein. The chalky sandstone wall is to explain the number 26 on the plaque. That was Bob's personal best for the number of laps on this traverse.
BonnieWe picked up a little trash before we left the area. Bob would have liked that.
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Fan
climber
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[photoid=400660]
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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Hi Bonnie thanks for taking the time to comment.
my name is Ryan Mattock a.k.a Pyro!
I went to stoney on Thursday can't believe it's been ten years..
at boulderdash Bob's chalk bag is hanging u can take a dip of his chalk still to this day!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
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top rope anchor setup
i bring dozen biners, full set Hex ,med to large nuts and 50-70ft of webbing!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
please enjoy the Prow route!
I've been up this thing many times however once u get onto main slab keep hand on the arete! I usually chalk the entire arete Just to get full rock climb.
Rated 5.11
it takes some technique but you'll get it!
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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"PYRO's Internet Guidebook of STONEY POINT"
All rights reserved.
I will TR with you any day!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Hey Pyro
I am in town hanging out in West Lake, and working in Chatsworth for a couple months, I would be honored if you would show me around Stoney.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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RIP Steve a good man gone.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2015 - 08:09am PT
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T2 that would be fun. Today I'm hanging with medusa at tic.
maybe we can hook up next thursday?
R.I.P Steve Bolough
I'm gonna miss his happy contagious humor!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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WHAT??? Steve died??? (as in the Asian Steve in above photo?) That sucks if true!! Is it OK to say what happened on the internet? If not I'll catch the story at stoney sometime soon. Peace
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Thanks for posting your photos and comments, Mrs.Kamps (@Fan). Thanks again, also, for the encouragement that you gave to my daughters when they first caught the climbing bug a few years back; they still remember your kind note.
Rich Jones
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Wow Ryan, that video tour of Stoney was awesome!
Can't believe I never climbed at Stoney...only made it there once, for Bob's memorial. My loss, for sure.
I love this thread. Please keep it going...and thanks.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2015 - 06:25am PT
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Here is the Nutcracker
Bring a full set of Hex along w/ 70ft of webbing.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
hope you enjoy this old classic piton crafted route.
remember this thing has been around since 1935..
LL I'll post a pic for u on the mugu thread..
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Very sad to hear about Steve. It was always fun to hang out with him, bouldering and at saftey meetings. The Point lost one of it's tribe. RIP Steve.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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I always liked hanging with Steve.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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It sure was dark this am, when the alarm went off......
but that only means one thing....
DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME!!!!!!!!!
IS BACK, STONEY POINT SEASON IS ON.
Planning a hot dog event soon.... stay tuned for more info.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Guy & Jan training for opening day at Stoney
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
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Was that today Frumy?
I was out there with a dump-run of ghetto sofas.
Cool to see bikers/ runners and seagulls hittin it up too.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 10, 2015 - 07:27am PT
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It was over the weekend. Had a great time. Fished in the morning bouldered at Pocketopia in the afternoon. Then on Sunday we bouldered at the Sads.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
|
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Mar 10, 2015 - 08:24am PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Mar 10, 2015 - 09:06am PT
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:16am PT
|
Season open starts today = Daylight Saving Time + longer days = more time to have fun!
Nice pic of Michael Reardon on Sculpters Traverse, Yafer.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Mar 10, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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Enjoy it guys! I will make it out for some hot dogs soon!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
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Mar 12, 2015 - 08:30am PT
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 14, 2015 - 11:55am PT
|
Nice to visit via your videos, Pyro. Haven't been back since Bob's memorial.
I was introduced to rock climbing at Stoney in August of 1961 by Jack Hansen (an old Vulgarian). I was 29 years old going on 30. The following summer I met 3 high school seniors from Canoga Park High School: Ken Boche, Dennis Hennek, and Russ McLean. Although they were 13 years younger than me, we became bosom buddies and are still bosom buddies today. There was nothing at Stoney that had been climbed that we couldn't climb. There were things we did climb that other's hadn't. Ah, memories!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2015 - 08:18am PT
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Don lauria wrote:
I was introduced to rock climbing at Stoney in August of 1961 by Jack Hansen (an old Vulgarian). I was 29 years old going on 30. The following summer I met 3 high school seniors from Canoga Park High School: Ken Boche, Dennis Hennek, and Russ McLean. Although they were 13 years younger than me, we became bosom buddies and are still bosom buddies today. There was nothing at Stoney that had been climbed that we couldn't climb. There were things we did climb that other's hadn't. Ah, memories!
These are the guys who we need to share the stories!
Don i'll continue to post videos for you guys feels like your there...
please bring some life to those classic piton crafted climbs..
would love to hear more stories!
peace Pyro!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
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Mar 18, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
|
Hope to make it out tomorrow.
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Tennessee Jed
Sport climber
South Bay
|
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Mar 18, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
|
hey guys I was wondering if the three glue ins on top of the pink drips wall are bomber?
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
|
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Mar 20, 2015 - 09:22am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
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Mar 27, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 27, 2015 - 01:39pm PT
|
Stoney Point Boys.... going international.
Very nice Mark.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
|
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Mar 28, 2015 - 09:42am PT
|
This is from the Stoney documentary. Can anyone identify the crack?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Anybody home?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
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That's me on "Packet Cracker" . its on the tier below the black wall and nose cone. It's probably 5 11 B, and very good quality. hit me up and I'll take you up to it.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
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sitting here right now with Matt Oliphant, he says yes it is Packer cracker, aka: 7 digit sequence, and the photo is reversed. we were just reminiscing on what a fine bold climb this is.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
|
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Thanks Levy. You've told me that before I think, but when I went to check it out I saw the crack arching to the right and figured it for a different route. Makes sense if the footage was reversed. Lets go send it!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
|
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 07:55am PT
|
welcome back frumy!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
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Yafer, Mark and Kathy.... so lets see, your being good ambassadors from Stoney to Mexico.
Beer at the crags.
Tunes at the crags.
Cigs at the crags.
but at least you got the helmet on.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Once I stop climbing and start drinking I need the helmet.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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safety first
It started RAINING today at noon.... and is still coming down hard at 5:12 pm.......
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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hard to see that this is Jan!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 11, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
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That crack is a sweet lead and a fine route, despite lots of bird poop and the bee hive. Lead it solo with a clove hitch belay once.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2015 - 06:30pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 12, 2015 - 09:50am PT
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So Pyro, two years after I leave & you start coming back to Stoney.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2015 - 11:23am PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Frumy if a swell is in water count me out otherwise you'll see more of me around the Point...
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Apr 15, 2015 - 09:25am PT
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Tuesday was fun times. Reviving some old lines. Nice temps with sticky rock.
Had a great No Hands session on Slant Rock after being inspired by the Johnny Dawes video.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Apr 15, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Nice picture Sam. Don't think the spotter would do much good at that point though :) If anyone's not familiar with Stoney...that route on the overhanging is the Johnson Arete, put up by Jeff Johnson, one of the all time masters of Stoney Point. Hope he's doing well these days. The route with all the chalk is Powerglide.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
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That one committed foot!
Love it sam..
Rincon I thought craig fry put up Johnsons problem :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 15, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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If you want an old time problem.... try "Talking Heads" 5.8 .....
on the other rock behind Sam... you can see a big hueco with graffiti below it. Start with hands in hueco, go to your right and climb up the arete to the top. Dean F. Shawn C and Guy K. 1977 ..... BADASS
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 15, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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Wow....Dean used to be pretty bulky!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 25, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 14, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
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May 14.... It started raining HARD about 10:30 am, thank god. So please consider the place closed for the next day or so.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2015 - 06:07pm PT
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found these at Potholes traverse a few years back.
Thank you for not climbing at stoney after rain.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 15, 2015 - 10:26am PT
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COOL.... It was raining this am as I zoomed down the hill.
Saturday am.... good day to go early and chase off the noob boulders.
Where is Mark when we really need him??????
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 15, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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Pissed that no one has stepped up to the plate to do the hard work.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 15, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
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Pissed that no one has stepped up to the plate to do the hard work.
Now Now big boy, don't be getting all pissed off......
Its hard to find an Independently wealthy, Early Retired, am dog walker who climbs the rocks....
You have some big shoes to fill.
LJ and I did cut all the weeds growing around the base B1... and we got the big downed oak branch moved out of the way.
Eric and Dry Bong did pick up a ton of trash that the rock ARTISTS and Paint Ballers forgot to take with them.....
And Mike Mathason and Banny Root went and threatened some young men who had the spray paint equipment visible when they came down the hill.
We try.....
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
Ventura
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May 15, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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You are so full of sh#t. Stoney cops............
If you didn't know it's a free world and park.
It's not the first time I've replied to your stoney police postings, or are you just having fun.
Were is my crow bar!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 15, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
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ONEWHO????
Do you have a problem with picking up trash?
With cleaning up Graffiti???
Why so bitter?
And I always try to have fun.
Guy Keesee
EDIT: to avoid braking rule #1
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2015 - 07:50am PT
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onewhotalkssh#t
You are so full of sh#t. Stoney cops............
dude come out behind that computer screen and tell this to our face..
guyman this person who walks is just a lousy internet troll...
Dec 26, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
I climbed there from 1981 until 2008 when I moved to Ventura.
I know the game. I don't what bothered me so much about the statement.
//" But I have something more pressing....
//
On my way to work , //, on wet streets, there were about 9 cars pulled up to the side of Stony. I saw packs on peoples backs, no pads, I didn't have time to stop and check out what was going on.
I suspect a "meet up" group or maybe one of the GUIDE services who use the place, although I didn't see the marked SUV/VAN/Vehicle they usually use.
I am not familiar with the "meet up" listings. If any of you folks are, please let me know the links, and I will let em know when the point is closed. "
//
The Point isn't CLOSED! Maybe it's the self appointed ruler of the land mind thought that bothers me so much. Who do you think you are Kim Jong-un.
Stoney point is a Los Angeles City Park, there for all to enjoy. When one group of users thinks they own the place and take matters in their own hand is when it could cause a problem with the city. Maybe a less confrontational way to get your point across would be better. Maybe post a sign at each entrance explaining why it isn't a good idea to use the rock while it is wet. I would not be surprised if the city park department would help with this.
I would encourage everybody to visit Stoney Point on a rainy day. It is pretty cool place when it's raining. Just don't climb or rap on wet rock.
During one rainy day a friend of mine and I aid climbed inside of the train tunnel. I also built walls under the 118 at Tampa. Yes that was me.
what are the walls that you built under 118? homeless shelter?
Here are group of Stoney Pointers who would love to see you onewho!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Please respect this thread.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2015 - 08:21am PT
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D. S Potter
Guys from stoney sad day for climbers. Dean Potter has passed on.
Had the privileged to meet him and smoke some bowls with him!
years later ran into him at the Ahwanee which he autographed the "red Rope guide book".. he was so stoked to thumb thru my book..
one of the reasons I like to free solo the front wall stuff at stoney was because I wanted to be like Dean.
Big inspiration for me!
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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May 18, 2015 - 08:05pm PT
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That's a lot of people there... Always like that??
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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Mae welcome to the Taco!
Stoney Point during the summer months its a zoo.
Were going to put on another BBQ this summer so i'll keep you posted..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 19, 2015 - 08:16am PT
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That's a lot of people there... Always like that??
Hi, no not always like that, some days almost deserted.
if you come out late in the day.... bring some sort of jacket, it has been quite cold and foggy.
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dncs_w_bldrs
Boulder climber
NY to Cali
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May 19, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
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If being a Stoney cop is a position, then sign me up! =P
How are the conditions as of current? I desperately need to get on some boulders. I also really want to get on some ropes. Any local day trips coming up soon?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 22, 2015 - 09:57am PT
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dncs.... hi, long time...
Come on out, T and T are best....
Clearing out of town this weekend.
We need your ##### then we can put you on the list, and let you know about all the fun things that are going on.
BTW..... Jeff Johnson was out last Tuesday, first time on the stone scene he BROKE HIS BACK..... did the EZ way up Turlock, down climbed Hoof-n-Mouth!!!!
Back in the saddle.
I love it.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 23, 2015 - 04:40pm PT
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It was perfect here Thursday how about there?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2015 - 08:17am PT
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Peter Hayes spoke on his FB:
Peter Hayes Running laps on Vicious, .12a, Stoney Point...my record was five. You can see the sister route to this one, called Walk the Plank, which takes the rounded ledge angling up to the left at the base. The blank wall above fell at .12 something. I put that route up with John Yablonski and Mike Guardino in 1989.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 24, 2015 - 06:15pm PT
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No, it was bedroom slippers.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 25, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Well it's come to this.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 27, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
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I'm going to try and make it this Thursday. Sadly the big guy has seen his last of Stoney. The drive would be too hard on him.
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Tennessee Jed
Trad climber
South Bay
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May 27, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
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Awh what a handsome pups, he looks like a great boy. wish'n him the best of luck!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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May 27, 2015 - 11:51pm PT
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Thanks Tennessee Jed he's a good one.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 28, 2015 - 07:07am PT
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Mark sorry about Soul, he is a good boy.
Going to miss this Thursday, got a funeral to attend. time moves on.
Looks to be a sunny day, finally after all the gloom, so the flowers will be going off.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Farouk do you know what happened to Weld_it?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2015 - 11:20am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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PYRO..... FYI, as of 12:45am NO Rain in Chatsworth.... its muggy as all heck, but sort of cool.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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thanks Guyman this morning it was dumping out here in newbury park..
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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It rained some here at Stoney but should be good to go after the first sunny day.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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You mean the 2.3 min of drops? Only put some dots on the dirt on my windshield.... not rain really.
we will go see if the dirt is wet....
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 10, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 11, 2015 - 05:13pm PT
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Farouk and ALL......
Sorry for the late notice........
Today at sundown, Mike Matheson will hold a memorial service for our long time friend and Stoney Boy: Steve Bouglou who passed recently.
See you all at sundown up at "Stock Rock" (thats behind and up from Turlok)
Bring your best stuff and come and share some Steve stories.
He will be missed.
RIP my Brother
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 11, 2015 - 05:33pm PT
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Wish I could make it for Steve's memorial. Burn one for me guy.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 11, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2015 - 07:46am PT
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Steve love your humorous comments!
You will be missed..
I was able to get a harness on him one last tim.
Hope you guys are doing alright..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 12, 2015 - 09:54am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
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Just checked out El cap pics and I recognized the green fish potaledge... rope soloist Matty!
Gomattygo!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 13, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
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Go Matty Go
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2015 - 08:25am PT
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talk with him last night at pitch 12..
he say's it's a Megamenical mental game!
Gomattygo!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 15, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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GoGoMatty....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2015 - 07:23am PT
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Hope all is well!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 17, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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Pyro - talk to Guyman.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Jun 17, 2015 - 04:18pm PT
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We need a Pyro appreciation thread. This thread is gold. Miss ya buddy! Keep up the good surf. You have always been one of my favorite to climb with and fun times at the crag. Thanks for all the memories. I still remember the time you hiked to the base of the column to help adam and i, then we asked you to buy us beer! Lol good times... then we climbed the tower the next week!!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 07:16am PT
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Thanks Jordan!
Both you and Adam have taken your wall skills to an ultimate level!...
Farouk.. happy bday!...
Let's keep Stoney Point a safe happy park to play at..
Everybody who has Matty phone number should give him a call... supertopo can be a non conducive environment when it comes to being rescued from El Cap...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 23, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
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C U at 5:30 gona be hot as heck - best to go back to pot hole traverse.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2015 - 05:30pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
I wonder if this guy has been training at Stoney!
Only at the Nard!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 27, 2015 - 09:25am PT
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I think they got him.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 27, 2015 - 10:04am PT
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Good one frumy!!!
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boulderkitty
Trad climber
LA
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Just passing by. Too bad the train wouldn't make a pit stop for a quick climb or two...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Farok, What Fire???????????????????
Where???????????????????
Why???????????????????
Who????????????????????????
Alex, the heat is greatly overstated. If you show up at like 2 pm , its hot as heck. But stay at work in the AC doing your bosses bidding intill around 5:15 then come on out..... sea breeze kickes up pretty good (only in north Chatsworth, not the rest of the Valley) around 4:30, start bouldering around back and finish up at Boulder 1 ...... drinking beer!
This is the way, the path, the light.
But not this Thursday.... some of US will be headed out to this place named Shuteye.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I was planning to get in on the Shuteye trip, but I'm gonna go to Vegas to watch my wife win the US Powerlifting Assn. nationals. She took the state record in her age group (55-59) in March:
Deadlift: 319.7
Squat: 226
Bench: 181.9
Total: 727.6
This should be interesting...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 16, 2015 - 05:48pm PT
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Kris how did she do?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 17, 2015 - 08:48am PT
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Farouk !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I thought you were the man -----------BUT you don't seem to know the routine.
Toprope Tuesday --- BBQ Thursday.
Know that you know you are back on track to being the MAN.
Next time you see Weld_it tell him the taco is weak without him.
His barrier socks were the best.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 20, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
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The horror - Stoney Point does Shuteye Ridge.
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Jul 20, 2015 - 11:24pm PT
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Oh...that's why those holds came off so easily. They where so nice I just took them home to use later.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 21, 2015 - 10:16am PT
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Frummy it's OK... Can't you see they are married.....
It was raining this AM...... Put out the CLOSED sign
and gather the ROCK POLICE......
Time to go pick up trash
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 26, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
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Is it dry yet?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 27, 2015 - 09:25am PT
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Very! You coming down to boulder?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 27, 2015 - 12:26pm PT
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Cole is on his way to Tahoe for a couple weeks so you are probably going to have to wait for that report.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 29, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
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Yah Jan, I was there last night.
Drove down in the morning loaded my truck with about 1500 lbs. of brick & an old bed. Then I went to LJ's - we went to the Point & then I drove back here.
Couldn't lift my arms to unload the truck today - tomorrow ???Here is Cole's trip report^^^
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
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Jul 30, 2015 - 07:55pm PT
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PYRO ROCKS!! The Corner. Turlock Rock Happy Birthday Again Pyro.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jul 30, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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^^^Nice...bong on the belt!
Happy anniversary medusa and pyro!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 30, 2015 - 09:21pm PT
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Yes, who else?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 31, 2015 - 08:57am PT
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Happy anniversary Pyro and Madusa.... whats it been 5 - 10 years????
Farouk...WE missed you last nite, temps got really nice yesterday around sunset... people were sending.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Time for another Hot Dog cook off???????
Anybody know how to get a hold of "Brad" and Sticker???????
PM me if you know, OK.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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Dude I want a bong belt!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 08:42pm PT
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The Buttermilks were stunning tonight!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
KCET just published all of Huell stuff.
Stoney point classic
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Bump for Huell.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Is it going to rain down there?
I'm going to try & make it tonight.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Great night at Stoney last night.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Was great to see you Frumy!!! Everyone else too!! Sweet clouds and sunsets.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
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Beautiful pic Matt!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2015 - 08:31am PT
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spectacular sunset shot matty..
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2015 - 09:07am PT
|
Fire spotted at rocky peak
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Aug 14, 2015 - 10:20am PT
|
That fire was caused by a car over the side this morning.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 14, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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Pyro..... I had to stop and go through that today... smokey as heck.
Bat.... were you in attendance????
Yesterday was one of the first times I skipped Stoney..... it was 100+ at 5pm..... the stone is getting oven fired. Off to Bishop for the weekend, looking for elevation, shade and water.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
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Aug 14, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Batrock does not work that neck of the woods GuYzo!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 18, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
|
Its only 93 outside now.... Sending temps!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
See you all later today for the "golden hour" as Yapher calls it.....
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Aug 20, 2015 - 10:21pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 27, 2015 - 05:52pm PT
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Dingus.... so you were there??????? In Chatsworth???
Food is average, at best, but the drinks are KILLER.
sorry we missed, Thursday is bouldering nite.
right now its 102 .... might just shoot straight to Los Torros!!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2015 - 07:11am PT
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Chatsworth over hundred degrees
Tic roc canceled by medusa due to no ocean breeze
107 Calabasas
DMT that pic makes me feel thirsty
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 28, 2015 - 02:37pm PT
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See you in September.....
Right now at 2:35 pm .... it feels like Phoenix
hotter than I can ever recall.....
3hrs then off to the Mountains, 10,000 feet will hopefully cool me off...
Pyro if it was to hot at Tic... its global warming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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HOPPA!! That's Cali Livin'
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The season is on!!!!
Last Thursday you needed a jacket....
Thinking about another weenie roast in a week or two.
PYRO are you down? ..... we need an official photographer.
Sam- E.... can you round up your posse of young studs?
let me know, OK?
what would be best, Thursday or Tuesday?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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Thursday will work.. ill have to give medusa the heads up!
also can we start doing a Live ask your questions thread via stoney point?
I also want to put cosmic on the phone so we can all say hello via stoney
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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I know some dudes...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sam... its starting to cool off some... maybe in a week or two it will be nice enuf to roast some dogs.... without getting roasted.
maybe the 24 of Sept...or OCT 1 ....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2015 - 10:55am PT
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im at the beach for the rest of the week..too hot too humid..
will continue efforts to post live via stoney point BBQ pic's..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 15, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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PYRO ..... put out the closed sign.... its raining HARD!!!
about time.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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used a umbrella today!
felt kool in California with the rain..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 15, 2015 - 09:10am PT
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I guess its time to put on my CRAG POLICE hat.....
Don't let me catch your ass pulling on the holds today ....
$5,000.00 fine if I do, payable to the SPCA.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2015 - 11:24am PT
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Don't let me catch your ass pulling on the holds today ....
$5,000.00 fine if I do, payable to the SPCA.
damn! people better listen..
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 15, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
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with a mega rain like that... i feel like it might even need 2 weeks !!!
i'll miss all the chalk-beta : )
love me some stoney <3
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2294321/Your-1st-first-ascent
Hi all, As a So. Cal. boy I grew up at Stoney... I did quite a few Firsts there, which were all nailing back then, and are pretty much free climbed now... One sunny and bright blue day, I think it was 1965, I soloed a first ascent on a block in the back of Stoney with four or maybe five placements; it's now known as the Yabo Arete. Another I was pretty jazzed about was the Patio to Coonyard traverse. Then bigger still was the N. E. face of Mt. Brewer. Those still put smiles on my face...
id either forgot or this is new to me but Yabo arete was an aid climb for sure..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 18, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 18, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Sep 18, 2015 - 09:26pm PT
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Kickass phote posted by Sam E
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hairy potter
Boulder climber
san gabriel valley
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Sep 22, 2015 - 04:53am PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 22, 2015 - 05:12am PT
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The reason I know I'm in small rock hell is an intense education from Stoney when back when weed still had seeds and we were all crushing 10s but only a few of us could Boulder past 11s
Trying to see past the tragedy of the urban blight,
it is art to them,
and gives them something to do
other than crack and meth. Or whatever kids today get high up on
(to keep up with y'all, and - true that! what a pity that the Point is a skanky mess)
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Sep 22, 2015 - 05:13am PT
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Does that problem face the road? The graffiti is sad
oops. just opposite the road
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hairy potter
Boulder climber
san gabriel valley
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Sep 22, 2015 - 06:03am PT
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Boulder one (near the road) east face (yabo mantle maybe?)
yeah the graffiti is bad right now. Sometimes there is none for a long time then a new generation will come of age…
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2015 - 07:55am PT
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(to keep up with y'all, and - true that! what a pity that the Point is a skanky mess)
occasionally you'll come across women's panties
in the 90's the broken glass was a BIG problem.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 22, 2015 - 08:18am PT
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(to keep up with y'all, and - true that! what a pity that the Point is a skanky mess)
Gome .... well its not the middle fork of the Kings river but its a lot better than back in the good old days.
It has a good community of climbers who help each other. Not at all like several "climbing towns" that I know of.
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hairy potter
Boulder climber
san gabriel valley
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Sep 22, 2015 - 08:49am PT
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Did someone say women's panties?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 22, 2015 - 09:19am PT
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 22, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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Aaaaaa, might be hard to stay focused when Stoney is at it's best.
I do like this thread, just never go to Stoney Point.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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Did someone say women's panties?
the best were the lesbians making it out in the back wall.
I do like this thread, just never go to Stoney Point.
it's not that bad on the other end of Topanga is a surf break which get a little ugly at times..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 22, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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I do like this thread, just never go to Stoney Point.
Your loss!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 22, 2015 - 12:46pm PT
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Stoney Point is a gateway drug, it leads to places like this.And we all know what that does to a person.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 22, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
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It's all good Frummy. But if I'm going to drive 2+hours to climb, I'm at least going to Tahquitz or Suicide.
If I was closer, I'd be there
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 22, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
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Well you are past the gate & on the way.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 25, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Sep 26, 2015 - 08:03am PT
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I miss Stoney.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2015 - 09:04pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
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from summit boulder
found this photo on FB.. 1960-70's
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Oct 11, 2015 - 06:34pm PT
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Cool pic Pyro!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Oct 16, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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Temps were pretty good.
Saw Dry Bong and Matheson, but no Keese or Lieberman.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2015 - 08:14am PT
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Johnny doing the rounds keeping everybody in check!
Glad temps are starting to maybe feel like fall.
Rincon I bet Boodawg drove the dirt road to stoney..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 16, 2015 - 08:37am PT
|
Sam... sorry to miss you.... Doctor Appt, a must do.
And Jeff is taking his sweet time recovering from that surgery he had 2 weeks ago.
It has been really nice lately, last Tuesday one needed a jacket once the sun went down.
The grip of the stone is increasing.
Hope to see you guys in the next few weeks, before the time change.
Soon it will be time for this....
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 16, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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I wanna go^^^ even just to get away. I'm still not climbing but did get some good new from the neurologist last week. No permanent nerve damage in my wrists so it seems like just a long road of physical therapy and slow recovery ahead, but still positive news. Cheers gang hope to see yall soon.
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
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Oct 23, 2015 - 01:10pm PT
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Great to hear! See you tonight Picasso~
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 27, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Last few days before the time change. Hope to see some of you out there tonight.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 27, 2015 - 04:30pm PT
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Matty, how are you doing?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 27, 2015 - 04:55pm PT
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About ready to call it quits for the day and bust out to the point.
Dry Bong and Ja
Proud Papa
Mark how are you doing????
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 27, 2015 - 05:39pm PT
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I'm hanging in there. Back is getting better.
Great to see the future - father daughter S.P. time, does not get much better than that.
Proud Dad.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2015 - 04:18pm PT
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on fire for 3days..melted the tracks..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 30, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
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Pyro.... whats the story?
Was that the Nuclear Reactor on its way to the center of the earth??????
Maybe BowDog or one of those OLD guys knows the story.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 30, 2015 - 08:43pm PT
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Burn baby burn!
Radioactive
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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check out Topanga near the Purple stone boulders
looking the other direction..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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PYRO please dust off the "CLOSED to CLIMBING" sign.....
its pouring dogs n kats right now
I hope this keeps up till about next April....
and it did rain last nite some.... and this morning one of those climbing classes was forming up on the side of the road.... I do hope that its not REI the local guides do know better....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 12, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
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Nice and sunny, if you don't need to work...... SP is a great place to hang out at on a nice fall day.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 12, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
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I was at the Buttermilks today & I still miss Stoney.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Nov 12, 2015 - 08:54pm PT
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Nov 13, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 13, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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^^
Nice shot Sam.
The Earthquake Route (Owen: Stoney Pt Guide 1st Edition) was my proud first ascent just 2 weeks after the great Northridge quake.
It was a short top rope problem we used to do all the time in the 1980s but the bottom half fell off in the quake.
2 guys from Redondo Beach set up a TR but could not pull the crux move. I offered to give it a try and pulled on through. They followed after. It was clear due to dust and loose bits that no one else had climbed it yet.
In later editions the route has been downgraded to a boulder problem. Rightly so since it's not very tall and hardly worth setting up a TR.
However the route can be quite sandy and landing is poor so falling, even with pads, is not a good option.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 13, 2015 - 11:04am PT
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Spider & Sam nice.
Have the Vultures shown up at Stoney lately They left here about two weeks ago?
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Nov 13, 2015 - 02:45pm PT
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Sam, I got a great photo of you on Gar Scar, but its too big. So i gotta resize it and put it up. Sending!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 13, 2015 - 05:14pm PT
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NA-..... post it up.
I ran into JA as he was leaving last nite..... he had a huge smile on his face. He told me he had just done "The Font" for the first time.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2015 - 08:12am PT
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yafer what the ?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 24, 2015 - 04:14pm PT
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For anybody that new him
Solstice left use today.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 24, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
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RIP......
Mark you and J have done the very best that you could for Sol. From the first day when you rescued him, trapped in a box- left to die, in till today, he was loved and lived a great life.
I recall the day/nite when he hung out with the good dogs at Cochise and learned how to play and wrassle and run and have fun with other dogs.
Take care.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 24, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
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Sorry to hear that mark. l have lots of good memories of Sol. You were great to him and seasons may change but there is a spring after every fall. Peace
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
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Sorry mark..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 25, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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PYRO: Man rescued after fall from Stoney Point in Chatsworth
A man who was trapped between two boulders in a popular hiking area in Chatsworth is lifted into a LAFD rescue helicopter . Photo by Michael Meadows
By Dana Bartholomew, Los Angeles Daily News
POSTED: 11/14/15, 3:34 PM PST | UPDATED: 2 WEEKS, 3 DAYS AGO 1 COMMENT
A man who was trapped between two boulders in a popular hiking area in Chatsworth is lifted into a LAFD rescue helicopter . Photo by Michael Meadows
CHATSWORTH >> A helicopter plucked an injured man off of Stoney Point on Saturday after he fell 20 feet and became wedged between rocks, Los Angeles firefighters said.
The 23-year-old rock climber fell sometime after 2 p.m. at Stoney Point Park, then became trapped between large boulders, said Erik Scott, a spokesman for the Los Angeles Fire Department.
Firefighters, with the aid of a rescue helicopter, extricated the man and hoisted him to safety, he said. He was flown to a nearby hospital trauma center, where he was listed in serious condition
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
|
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I thought Pyro was in NorCal right now, not wedged in some chimney at Stoney!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2015 - 03:42pm PT
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Wes goulding bouldering
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 10, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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Pyro.... nice shot. good thing ya didn't mess up his concentration
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 10, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
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I think that picture might be older than Pyro.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Dec 11, 2015 - 08:16am PT
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Maggies Farm free solo, whoa! Makes my hands sweat thinking of it.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 11, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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^^^I don't think that's maggies. looks like Skurf. Yikes either way though
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 11, 2015 - 01:27pm PT
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Maggies - Skurf badass either way.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Dec 12, 2015 - 07:43am PT
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It's Scurf
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 12, 2015 - 11:20am PT
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[photoid=438280.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 12, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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This is right after the big fire.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Dec 12, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Dec 12, 2015 - 05:17pm PT
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Dec 12, 2015 - 05:26pm PT
|
Guy, Jeff and Drew listening to Levy.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
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Yafer use yellow not red can't see sh#t on that TOPO!
I'm gonna look harder though..bad ass pic..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 12, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
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Nice to see the boys out.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2015 - 08:11am PT
|
photo taken 1920's
USGS 1940 map
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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Virginia Watson is a historian and was one of our founding members of the Chatsworth Historical Society and is still living in Chatsworth. She wrote the book "Chatsworth History".
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 15, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2015 - 11:24am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 15, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
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Pyro.... that is a cool one.
matty .... good historical shots... like these:
way back....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 22, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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It was raining all nite long... a small lake is forming up nicely by Rock 1.
I am sure the Oak trees are loving it.
Let it rain
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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661climber
climber
Central valley
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Dec 22, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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Gotta check this place out someday. Lot of history
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 27, 2015 - 11:27am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
FRUMY this gopro video was put right at the point of impact..
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Dec 28, 2015 - 11:58am PT
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Do any of you guys know a guy named Peter raventos?
I believe he was a Yosemite big wall climber in the '60s
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 29, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Ask Guyman
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 29, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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BlueWing..... Just a bit before my time. Sorry.
Guido might know.
Hi Mark!!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2015 - 11:16am PT
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Do any of you guys know a guy named Peter raventos?
paging
Boodawg
life is a bivouac (russ Mclean)
McHale's Navy
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2015 - 11:13am PT
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1960)- NIKE MISSILE SITE in Chatsworth, California. Los Angeles was protected by 16-sites. A total of 265-bases around the country were equipped with "Nike" surface-to-air missiles. The missiles were operational between 1954-1972. They were designed to intercept enemy bombers traveling at supersonic speed.at a max height of 50,000 ft.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 30, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Check this out ...
I came by some pretty cool stuff!
Just storing for a friend for a while,
Set that breakbar on an oval ...
And a carribiner double break ...
Way too much fun!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Yeah, I have all that stuff too. But I will never use it again. It does look good hanging in the garage though.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Bluewing.... antiques to be sure.... Toss that Brake Bar thing into the trash, for safety please.
Stoney Point is closed for the next week or so.
Yes, it is raining very hard right now. I had the wipers on "extra fast" this morning as I went past. The large lake is forming up now....
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
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Happy Birthday PYRO. Bluewing get rid of those SMC hangers too. JUNK. oh and one bar on the biner works like crap.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2016 - 09:20pm PT
|
WTF!?!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 10, 2016 - 04:39pm PT
|
No, dripping wet.... BRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EDIT: to stay out of the mud.
Pyro, see you soon
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2016 - 06:10pm PT
|
Stewart tried then left with tail between leggs..
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
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Jan 11, 2016 - 11:01pm PT
|
that beta on 'boot flake' !!! i have always tried to attain the 'boot' via the two super crimpy holds and bad feet down low and with a big lunge. I wonder if that off-to-the-right hold in the first photo in that sequence will unlock it for me. <3 stoney
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2016 - 08:21am PT
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Stoney Point History
The Chatsworth Rocks in the Santa Susana Pass provide a dramatic frame for Southern Pacific's "Lark," train no. 76, as it emerges from tunnel 27 heading into Los Angeles in January 1948. No. 4428 is a GS-3 type built in 1937, the first GS class with 80-inch drivers, and built to operate with a maximum speed of 106 mph.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 15, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
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This is just a FYI.... It rained really hard for about 2 hours in Chatsworth today....
Please stay off of the wet sandstone.
Jonny Dry Bong... has been busy talking to folks who take pads down there...
and along that line.... The big ledge/shelf you go for when doing Hoof n Mouth ..... is now flexing some and has a crack running along the top where it joins. This historic problem is in real danger of crashing off.
That would be sad.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 19, 2016 - 11:51am PT
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More Rain... yes more rain... let it rain....
This will help make the greener than real green grass grow at the point.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 19, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jan 20, 2016 - 07:05am PT
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Peter Hayes around 1980
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
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Mark Powell told me a story......
He and Kamps, both being teachers, would go on summer road trips together.
Mark said that Kamps had the infuriating habit of pulling off of the road and driving off into the distant landscape just because he saw some big boulders over "that a way".
The Father of Bouldering?
GUYMAN
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 22, 2016 - 04:04pm PT
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Jeff.... that is the way I remember Peter... cranking like a mo-fo, up and down all day long!
Get strong
Pyro, where did you find that little gem? you stalking me?????
Go get the big wave this weekend.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
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Pyro, where did you find that little gem? you stalking me????
LOL.. you da man! love your profile picture.. 2kool.
I'm out factory work the next 5 days.. CYA!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 22, 2016 - 07:34pm PT
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Chris Owen just received his latest printing of the guidebook (no updates) today. It should be back in stock in the store where it once was scarce.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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Chris should put it on youtube so that anybody can just look it up..
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jan 26, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Great day at Stoney Point! Friction was high.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Guy missed it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh, man....I sure did.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Farouk you fake. That ain't Stoney. These are
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Feb 12, 2016 - 12:05pm PT
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 12, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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I was doing a few laps on the bolt ladder yesterday morning, getting used to my Silent Partner when the fire department showed up along with their helicopter. I'm too lazy to call and track down to find out what happened. Does anyone know what was going on? It looked like it was back near A-Frame or around that area.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 18, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Rained all nite, pretty hard.... starting to let up now but...
Please consider the place closed for a few days....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2016 - 01:57pm PT
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Bet some of this SEA GLASS comes from Stoney!
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Ma'ila
Boulder climber
Ventura, CA
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Feb 20, 2016 - 10:05pm PT
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Where is Edison Mountain? Any bouldering near Moorpark College?
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Feb 22, 2016 - 08:51am PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 22, 2016 - 09:48am PT
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Ya' alls makin' my eyes tear up, Things look fuzzy,
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 22, 2016 - 10:06am PT
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Which Edison Mt.?
I had fuzzy eyes the day I heard about Blue.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2016 - 10:57am PT
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Where is Edison Mountain? Any bouldering near Moorpark College? Ma'ila
yes there is bouldering over at Edison MTn.. as of today the homeless are calling it Heroin MTN..
give me a couple day's I gotta work in Simi.. i'll take a photo of the bouldering are..
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JMC
climber
the land of milk and honey
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Mar 11, 2016 - 01:56am PT
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^ new route potential - any problems coming out of "the baby caves"? (17:40 in the clip)
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Mar 17, 2016 - 11:17am PT
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First Thursday of the season. See you at the point!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 17, 2016 - 12:59pm PT
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Someday my wrists will heal and I'll be back. Until then... cheers one for the matty...
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Mar 18, 2016 - 09:36am PT
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Steven Antolin
Boulder climber
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Mar 18, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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^ I haven't been to Stoney yet mainly because of parking and all the crazy stories of how trashed it is and the drugs and other bad stuff. But this picture helps me want to get out there plus I just bought the Urban Rock book (hopefully most of the money goes to support the efforts).
Yes I'm sure the bad stories are overblown, but I'll find out first hand hopefully today.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 18, 2016 - 05:22pm PT
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Steve... hint. Park across the street on "Old Santa Susana" ....if going north on Topanga take the left turn, just before you get to Stoney. (its the old way to start up Santa Susana pass.....park there, if its to packed on Topanga.
And all the crazy stories you hear about..... ALL TRUE and then some, esp the DRUG part.
if you go there and you see this fella.... RUN AWAY
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Steven Antolin
Boulder climber
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Mar 20, 2016 - 02:43pm PT
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Went on Fri. Overall not as bad as I was expecting.
Didn't get on routes, but bouldered. Boulders were tagged up, pin scarred, and had chopped bolts. We had a stroller, and it wasn't too hard to get around. When we went, it wasn't to busy so parking was easy.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 22, 2016 - 08:49am PT
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Steven... glad you had fun.
We have been getting after the "Artist Types" who come out and paint...that goes on well after dark.
the level of that sh#t has gone way down in the last few years. Two people who did a ton of work to clean it up, Justthemaid and Jim "wild man" Wilson don't go the SP anymore so its is slowly returning.
We are working to remedy that.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Mar 22, 2016 - 09:17am PT
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We were there on Friday. Temps were prime, friction was high!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 22, 2016 - 10:00am PT
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See you today... ???
Da Meat
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 22, 2016 - 11:14am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 25, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
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Farouk.... do not know... it was there at 8a when I rolled by on my way to work. Maybe the local 96 boys are working Hot Tuna?????
HotDogs soon....
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Mar 25, 2016 - 03:42pm PT
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Damn it would be good to see the Thursday hot dog tradition come back alive. Do it!!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 25, 2016 - 06:00pm PT
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It would be really cool to re-start up Top Rope Tuesday.
Now that was a blast, go and do like 6-8 climbs in a hour....
Cole, we are breaking in a whole new bunch of young kids, some of them show a ton of potential.... just like you did when you were a pup. Remember when you could not stop thinking about that project, problem??? I remember when I had the hi-stoke factor going on 24/7 ..... well now some of those kids do. I see the cars parked at like 7am.... "time before school" and then back to SP at like 2:30 till dark, then bust out the head lamps.
Pretty hi energy, some of it rubs off on me.
Prolly get the Hot Dog thing going in June, when we have really long days.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 26, 2016 - 08:42am PT
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All of you new folks need to ask Guy about & then look up Glen Dawson!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2016 - 09:41pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 30, 2016 - 08:58am PT
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burnin' vernon
climber
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Mar 31, 2016 - 08:17am PT
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Great to see these pics of Stoney. A few decades since I've been in that neck of the woods. Cut my bouldering/TR teeth there in mid to late 80's. Good times. Met Coonyard there once, etc. And "Hoof n' Mouth" is great work out for a "Dyno in the Dark" lead. I wasn't leading 10b at the time but when I saw it I knew I had that entry move wired and went for it :D
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Mar 31, 2016 - 08:23am PT
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Too bad women aren't as in to standing around with their shirts off as most men seem to be...
Edit;
I guess gratitude is in order that we have been allowed to experience the buffness
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 31, 2016 - 09:10am PT
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Too bad women aren't as in to standing around with their shirts off as most men seem to be...
I feel the same way.
But it happens from time to time at Stoney, I think Frummy has evidence maybe he will post up.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 31, 2016 - 10:50am PT
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^^^^ Jaffe?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Yes, it is.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Jaffe was an interesting guy. You know his dad produced the Dinah Shore show. Used to boulder with him out at ST pretty regularly. Miss that place and the folks out there... much fun.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Awesome, Guyman, super tight white with green 3 stripe addis sneakers were great.
Then the came out with the Nite Jogger that were day glow and had stripes that glowed in the dark, double duty Shows and boulders 1976?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Paul, what do you mean by "was a interesting guy".....
he was at the StoneMasters reunion in Josh a few years back.... still climbed in those shoes.
I hope he is OK.
Gome..... I stuck with EB's, I hated all of the "boots" that came out in the late 70's.... I had a pair of Chounard "canyons" or something like that....I wore then before I chucked em out a few years ago.... it was like climbing with Plastic Soles.
God Bless John Bachar and Mike Graham for finding Fires and bringing then over to the USA..... it changed my life.
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Sterner
Boulder climber
Topanga, CA
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Apr 25, 2016 - 07:36pm PT
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Last Tuesday! TR Tuesday! Awesome, Roof to Face to Slab finish!
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Apr 26, 2016 - 08:48am PT
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I hope he is OK.
Have no idea. I'm sure he is. I haven't really gone out to SP on a regular basis since 1977.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 26, 2016 - 09:22am PT
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Have no idea. I'm sure he is. I haven't really gone out to SP on a regular basis since 1977.
Paul.... that's a lifetime! Stoney will always be ready to have you back.
And Steiner.... welcome to the taco. So where is this climb you did on TR Tuesday???? "Eye of Faith"
The SPCA is looking for a TR Tuesday coordinator. The last one took up SURFING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and is now addicted to looking at chicks wearing 3 square inches of fabric!!
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Sterner
Boulder climber
Topanga, CA
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Apr 26, 2016 - 03:25pm PT
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Thats on South Buttress 2 according to Mountain Project. Really fun route with no bolts. Gotta use a few cams in a little crack and we slung a boulder. We also extended the anchor probably 30 ft over the top of the slab to reduce drag. Man it would be fun to lead with some nice glue ins... Seriously one of the best TRs I've done at Stoney.
Thanks for the welcome Guyman. We've met in person a few times! Im friends with the Josifs, Jah, and Sam E
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 26, 2016 - 05:46pm PT
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South Buttress #3 ..... I just looked.
I do think that it is hi time we (all of the Stoney Climbers) put bolted anchors at the top of the long established climbs.... except for the ones with good natural anchors, like Beethoven.
The bolt anchor/chopping should stop.
OH Heck.... its 5:45.... time to tell the Bossman, "Im off to Stoney"
See you
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Apr 27, 2016 - 03:35pm PT
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Nice shot Guyzo but u need to compose a bit more...
Just messing with ya... miss u all. I'll make it out sometime soon.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 27, 2016 - 03:54pm PT
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MATTY!!!! How are your hands/wrists doing?
this year is an off year, almost no climbers are coming out on Tuesday/Thursday.... don't know why.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Apr 28, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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Sterner
Boulder climber
Topanga, CA
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Apr 28, 2016 - 12:00pm PT
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Guy
Eye Of Faith has a really good natural anchor for TRing however I think it would be an exceptional candidate for a sport climb... Not sure of the ethics on this idea but....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 28, 2016 - 12:25pm PT
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Not sure of the ethics on this idea but....
Making sport climbs out of the classic Stoney Toprope would be OK, IMHO. BUT some folks tried that and the bolts lasted about 4 hours....that was back in 1986???? there abouts.
In the early 2000's Mike Reardon and Co... put in a lot of TR anchors and some Slackliners did the same .... after Mike passed, RIP old friend, some folks took it upon themselves to remove all of these bolts.... only bolts that were placed for TR "back in the day" were left for TR's. (these bolts do get replaced from time to time.)
I was lucky enuf to have been handed 28 bolt hangers from this latest effort. All of them have now been used at a fine place out in "The Desert".
Change happens slowly and I have been thinking about just what climbs would need good TR anchors and which ones have good natural anchors.
I think that one of the coolest things about Stoney is this: Its a place to learn about Climbing, a place to put in your own gear, rig a TR and then trust it.... thats a lot different than clipping into bolted TR anchors .... like at the Apes Wall.
see you around. - say hi
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Apr 28, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
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I think that one of the coolest things about Stoney is this: Its a place to learn about Climbing, a place to put in your own gear, rig a TR and then trust it.... thats a lot different than clipping into bolted TR anchors ....
Guy ... Bump
ALTHOUGH ... I wish there was ...
some route at SP to practice Multi-pitch Belay Station stuff. you know, lead 1st pitch, set up belay station to belay follower, swap leads, and belay 2nd pitch ... each pitch could nothing more than 20ft ... My 1st thought would be that shelf just above Red Bolt Tower ... but there is no climbable route up from there. My 2nd thought would be S-Crack ... but that would mean fixed anchor bolts half-way up for the pitch 2 belay station. And, I suppose you would still need to setup a TR anyway cuz I don't think you could place any Trad pro for the 2nd pitch ... and a fall while leading from there, w/o pro (TR or Trad) would not be good.
Anyway ... sorry for the rant ...
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Apr 28, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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I think that one of the coolest things about Stoney is this: Its a place to learn about Climbing, a place to put in your own gear, rig a TR and then trust it.... thats a lot different than clipping into bolted TR anchors ....
YES!
This is one of the best things about Stoney!
I remember getting some of my first gear from REI down the road and heading straight to Stoney
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 29, 2016 - 10:44am PT
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Blue Wing.... The closest thing to what you want is The Bolt ladder, its Aid... and one needs to know that skill. Some even set up a full bivi hanging 1/2 way up.....
Last Night, it was full. The weather was perfect, slight breeze, cool... pretty perfect for sending... a bunch of Dudes showed up, with babies!! and Dogs!!! It was big fun....some diapers got changed on boulder pads.
EDIT...Fixed
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 29, 2016 - 11:53am PT
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I'm dizzy now
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Apr 29, 2016 - 12:14pm PT
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Me too!
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Alright Stoney Point thread... I feel like I finally have reason to give thanks and bump this thread.
About two years ago, my climbing mentor and friend took me to stoney point- in disbelief that I hadn't been there yet (having lived in LA for 4 years and he knew I liked to climb) and showed me around b1 and turlock. I asked him how I could become efficient and safe at trad climbing and he said that bouldering is an easy way to get your comfort on routes where you want it.
After flailing around and making some of the easiest ways up and down things- I struggled with my first of the many classic problems at Stoney- 'three little pigs'. About 3 months later after 12 or 13 tries I finally stuck it. i never missed it after that.
'Slime' the classic a bit further in took me longer... almost 6 months of visiting every week or two (or three). but again, it became a favorite. my first V1. There are too many fun problems to mention but suffice it to say I climbed around the point for two years trying to make every 0 and 1 in the guidebook and not making anything in the 2s, 3s, or beyond.
This past week- on a wednesday morning, I sent my first '2' in the park... 'pancake'... which is a short problem with a stout little mantle. There are still plenty of stoney-point-1's that I get shut down on. After the success of pancake- I gave 'Kodas Corner' an effort, probably my 4th or 5th visit to the problem. with the help of two friendly stoney visitors and our 4 pads- I made the send, and got my first 3 only days after making my first 2. The joy of topping out kodas was great after hearing some tough stories from two different parties who both broke ankles at kodas!
now onto 'the crack', the traverses, and the many classic problems i've yet to send.
I can thank stoney point for my peace, my strength, my entertainment, my inspiration... See you guys out there. get some sends in before its grease season! : )
didn't make this one, its from my first trip to the lip though.
the mantle got my wrists a bit
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Sterner
Boulder climber
Topanga, CA
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Huff n puff and.... Wait! It's three pigs! Not little! :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 18, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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Last nite was pretty fun.... besides the usual crew, some folks from Germany stopped by....
and there was a tragedy... Young Joe flew off of "Masters". Dave Kats stepped in and gave him a four star spot, keeping his ass off the dirt. Dave paid the price though, catching a elbow to the side of his head... made for a big bloody welt. That one took a bunch of first aid....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 18, 2016 - 05:42pm PT
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1978.... Three stripe Adidas, way ahead of the game.
nice stuff Swelley.... got any more???
QUESTION: Who has information on the Boy Scout Troop, TROOP 510 I believe.
IIRC many of the Stoney Regulars came from that organization.
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Dogtown.
Trad climber
Marshell islands atoll
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May 19, 2016 - 07:32am PT
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All roads lead back to Stoney. just like all surf spots lead back to P.O.P.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2016 - 08:10am PT
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Guyman looks like a bloody hockey fight!
katz will be okay..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 26, 2016 - 09:27am PT
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This is Goyle...
Swelly... keep em coming.
Temps are just perfect at Stoney now.... bring a jacket for the late afternoons.
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chefer
climber
Altadena, CA
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May 31, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
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Has anybody taken the metrolink to stoney? I don't have regular access to a car at the moment and was wondering if it was feasible. Is it a very far walk from the station to the park?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 31, 2016 - 05:50pm PT
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Hi.... I have walked from the Chatsworth station to Stoney... its about 1.5-2 miles.
One can hop a bus up Topanga, but heck you can see Stoney from the station....
for a real historical trip... hop the metro as it leaves Chatsworth headed to Simi..... and just before it goes into the tunnel, jump off- Just Like Royal and Evon did BITD..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Fish.... Hi, we have been thinking about it....
I will PM you.
The last time was a hoot.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Thank You Russ.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I'm done with work tomorrow for the summer. Was thinking of going tonight but way to effin hot. Next week l see ya there.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Great photo!
That thing is waaaay bigger in real life than it look in that photo.
Split Decision is one of the best highball "easy" problems out there. I remember a week before I did it, a guy jumped from the last hold, seriously hurting himself. That was enough motivation to top out for sure.
Cheers!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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The last time I saw anything at Stoney look that Saturated I was eating shrooms. Juss' sayin'...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Last Tuesday a old, fit,tanned, guy was walking past Turlock, stopped and looked up at the Crowed Pleaser like he knew what he was looking at.
Its not uncommon to see old dudes walking around looking at the rocks.
Some how this was different so I went over and sparked up a conversion with him.
Turns out it was Paul Neil!!!!
This was his first time back at Stoney in 30 years....After living in South Africa.
We had a good time catching up with some folks we know in common, the climbing community is pretty small when you think about it.
He said he was looking for Don Lauria.....
I told him about Super Topo and this killer website and this thread.... he said he would look for it.
So maybe he will join and post up.
When he left he told me.... I might be back, with my EB's
I sure hope so.
I should have taken his picture, but not being from the Instagram generation I am not to quick on the draw with the iPhone.
"IT ALL STARTED RIGHT HERE" is what he told me.
So true for a lot of us.
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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FYI ...
Psilocybin’s unique ability to bind to serotonin receptors, as well as other receptors that scientists do not fully understand, has led to a myriad of potential medical uses. In 2010, Dr. Charles Grob, a Harbor-UCLA Medical Center psychiatrist, published a study in Archives of General Psychiatry that shows psilocybin has the potential to reduce anxiety in advanced-stage cancer patients. The study focused on 12 patients who received two sessions each, one with psilocybin and one with a placebo. Researchers found that with a fairly low dose of psilocybin, patients reported feeling less anxiety and needing less pain medication. Dr Stephen Ross, the clinical director of New York University Langone Medical Center of Excellence of Addiction, told the LA Times that this was a “landmark study… the first time a paper like this has come out in a prestigious psychiatric journal in 40 years.”
But psilocybin doesn’t just alter feelings and perceptions. Research published in the journal Experimental Brain Research this July by University of Florida scientists suggests that psilocybin can actually restore damaged brain cells. The scientists trained mice to be fearful of an electric shock, and then administered some of them psilocybin. They found that the mice on psilocybin were more relaxed and less fearful, but they also noticed that the psilocybin restored partially destroyed brain cells. Study author Dr. Juan R. Sanchez Ramos suggests that this is promising enough to merit further research into using psilocybin to generate new brain cells, as well as using psilocybin to treat post-traumatic stress disorder, or PTSD, since the fear in the mice resembled PTSD.
http://cmsw.mit.edu/angles/2015/wp/magic-mushrooms-or-medical-mushrooms/
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 16, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
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BlueWing.... I think the "experimenting" is still going on at Stoney.
Its pretty common to see some slack jaw hippy or modern hipster wandering around staring at the Jimson weed, the "ART" on the stone or the busy ant hole.
My old roommate, Steve, Chatsworth Hi class of 69, told me stories of hooking up with "Squekey" by slant rock to score "L".
I guess this was quite a common occurrence and a tradition that continues to this very day.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jun 16, 2016 - 07:43pm PT
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Live feed:
Good size crew tonight. Mix of old and new, just as it should be;)
Wish the rest of you were here too...
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jun 16, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
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Update:
The beers must be flowing...they are taking to descending the boulders....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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Any word on the chinese climber who fell 30ft?
This is from the san fernando face book page..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 13, 2016 - 07:08am PT
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Pyro.... ohhhh thats bad... do you have any info for us who do not do FB?
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curlie
Trad climber
SLO, CA
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Jul 13, 2016 - 07:57am PT
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I miss you guys! <3 Keep the random pix coming for those of us who have to live Stoney vicariously.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2016 - 08:26am PT
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i'll pass the word on.. hope the dude is okay..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 13, 2016 - 08:52am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 13, 2016 - 09:10am PT
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Frummy..... Good shot of Steve. That boy sure did love the Stoney Hi balls.
So Pyro when did this little mishap occurr?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 13, 2016 - 09:28am PT
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With shorts like those he should be wearing Keene Sandals.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2016 - 11:17am PT
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So Pyro when did this little mishap occurr?
I found a post on the "san Fernando valley then and now" facebook page yesterday .. however it's gone or I just cant find it.. ill look the rest of the day for it but all I got is the picture.. looks like it's from inside maggies
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hairy potter
Boulder climber
san gabriel valley
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Jul 16, 2016 - 07:25am PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 16, 2016 - 10:27am PT
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Bummer hope he heals up soon.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 19, 2016 - 04:11pm PT
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FAROUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ill be there at 6:15 pm.... is not hot as heck... breeze is starting now, give it a few more hours and it will be prime!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
come out and play
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 20, 2016 - 05:37pm PT
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jul 20, 2016 - 07:30pm PT
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Peter Hayes 1984 Stony. R.I.P
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 20, 2016 - 07:55pm PT
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Northern tip of Stoney Point
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 21, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
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It will clear down to 92 degrees by then. Excellent.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 21, 2016 - 06:12pm PT
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I was there last tuesday Gome.... it wasn't to bad.
The sea breeze was blowing pretty good.
Jeff... nice shot of Peter. Got any more to post?
Thinking of him always makes me smile.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 22, 2016 - 11:25am PT
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Welcome to Californias newest sport destination ...... Stoney Point!
There will be blood.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 22, 2016 - 12:42pm PT
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Thy will be chopped! !
Forces are marshalling, proper tools are being gathered.
Bolts for leading at Stony Point will not be tolerated.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 22, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
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Is tat the 5.8 up on the hill on the south/southeast side? Can't remember the name.
Pathetic. And a waste of money :-)
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 22, 2016 - 01:11pm PT
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Yes Kris, Pinscars or Machine Gun is what we always called it. It sits up above Turlock facing due South.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 22, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
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I would not be so outraged if they did a FA of a new line, or if they fixed that lead route Katz did BITD, that was in that "Eye on LA" show.
But to go and do this next to a long established, popular TR is a bit over the line.
whats next?
three maybe four "Killer Leads" on Beethoven?
Maggie's Farm??
Hot Tuna?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 22, 2016 - 02:26pm PT
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Move those bolts over to skirf!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2016 - 04:38pm PT
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Holy crap!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 23, 2016 - 12:42pm PT
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Weld_it must be back from k2.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Jul 23, 2016 - 01:08pm PT
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Sloany Point....Final Answer LOL
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hairy potter
Boulder climber
san gabriel valley
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Jul 28, 2016 - 07:08pm PT
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 28, 2016 - 07:48pm PT
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are the bolts gone yet?
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hairy potter
Boulder climber
san gabriel valley
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Jul 28, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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They were still there as of Wednesday night...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 28, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
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Does anyone know what idiot put them up?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 29, 2016 - 10:01am PT
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James Pruitt knows who did it. I asked him to forward a msg to the person, and to give them my phone number so we could talk, but as of now no contact.
I am hoping that who ever did this will go and pull it.
and see the error of their ways...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 29, 2016 - 10:23am PT
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Unbelievable. I'm actually surprised that it's taken this long for it to happen. You'd think they'd bolt the Jesus Wall. It only takes one idiot with a bolt gun...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 29, 2016 - 10:46am PT
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Last Thursday was a fun one...
With pretty cool temps, esp considering the 105 temps during the afternoon. I was lucky to get these photos of Jenna sending "The Crack" (Mchales Overhang to me) She has been working this with a vengeance, and doing a bunch of the traverses and other problems during the last year or so.
Good to see a big breakthrough, so stoked for her.
"This is where I blow it"
Don't know whats holding me
new ground
wow
whew
Hot dam
Stoked
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 29, 2016 - 11:29am PT
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great send
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jul 29, 2016 - 11:44am PT
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1982 Peter Hayes, Scruf?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 29, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
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Nope, that's "Vicious", 5.12. It's on the back wall between Beethoven and A-frame.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Jul 29, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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If that's 5.12 what's A frame rated now? If I remember back in the day it was 5.8.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 29, 2016 - 05:39pm PT
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A big block fell out of A Frame a few years back 5.7
it was rated 5.9 in the Hellweg & Fisher Guide 1982
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Jul 29, 2016 - 05:42pm PT
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Thanks... just curious. Did notice on my last visit the remarkable changes at ST. Which is, all in all, probably a good thing. What a great place it remains!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jul 29, 2016 - 05:45pm PT
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Yep it is
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Jul 29, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
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Great to see everyone Thursday!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 12, 2016 - 09:28am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
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Caption for this photo reads:
Sunshine Ranch (looking north from the approximate intersection of White Oak Ave and Chatsworth St in early 1920’s. It was planted with 1,200 acres of citrus (oranges, lemons, and grapefruit), apricots, walnuts, beans, and alfalfa.
Granada Hills Chamber of Commerce
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Aug 13, 2016 - 10:32pm PT
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It strikes me that now might represent a real opportunity for climbing development in LA, such as Stoney.
The decision to add climbing to the Olympics now makes the availability of training sites very desirable for LA, particularly since LA is making a bid for the 2014 games.
How could they improve Stoney (water? toilets?)
What other areas could be made available that currently are not?
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 21, 2016 - 03:37pm PT
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Hi guys, I bolted this. I realize this is a big point of contention. I would first like say that I did quite a lot of research on the glue-ins and have a background in construction. The holes were meticulously cleaned, brushed, and blown out. I used Quickrete high strength two part anchoring epoxy, and stainless steel Wave bolts. I also color matched the rock as best I could. This is by far the best way to sustainable bolt this quality of sandstone, and unlike expansion bolts, this type of bolt doesn't weaken the surrounding rock structure and should last decades. Now to the question of if they should stay. I want to say I have great respect for the history of Stoney Point. I have lived in the Valley my entire life and the Chatsworth Hills and Stoney have been my stomping grounds. I meant no disrespect to by doing this, In fact the opposite. I am trying to add to the enjoyment to this place we all love. I hope we can have a discussion about this. Thanks
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SpaGetty
Trad climber
SFV, California
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Aug 21, 2016 - 05:27pm PT
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I led "Machine Gun" on Ian's bolts. In the time It usually takes to set up top rope. It was led, followed, cleaned and moving on. Stoked, gave me a little more time to climb. I've long hoped someone would take modern bolting techniques and apply them to some routes in my backyard. Bummed its been met with so much negative feedback. I hope ya'll reach out to Ian and resolve the issue properly.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Aug 21, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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does that quickcrete come in a bag or a tube?
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 21, 2016 - 07:37pm PT
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It comes in a caulk tube with a mixing nozzle.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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KEEP SPORT ROUTES OFF
No sport routes at Stoney point Allowed!
Traditional boulder top rope maybe a feature lead but thats it.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 21, 2016 - 08:45pm PT
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Though I'm an LA native, I'm not as much of a local as others on this site. Having said that, I think you're missing the issue correctly. The issue is bolting, not which types of bolts to use. This seems REALLY obvious, to me at least. The fact that you thought this required consideration of which bolts to use, rather than whether to place them at all, suggests to me that this point was missed completely. If bolting was an acceptable practice, you'd see more bolts. The fact that Stoney has been climbed at pretty regularly for the past 70 yrs., and that the vast majority of the bolts have been at the tops of routes (if at all), not on them, seems a pretty clear indication that bolted lead routes are not consistent with local ethics. The whole 'convenience' argument is irrelevant. This isn't a convenience issue, it's an ethics issue.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 21, 2016 - 08:48pm PT
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Chop that sh#t. There is no further discussion. Buh-bye.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 21, 2016 - 09:57pm PT
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Ian, you should look to the Gritstone in Britain for an example. Watch the video "Hard Grit." You will see quickly why people are upset.
The Brits understand that the Grit is a precious but limited resource. If climbers of future generations are going to be able to imagine and accomplish new challenges bolting must be forbidden. The ethic on the gritstone’s short but beautiful climbs is that if you don’t want to lead the route the way it is, then top-rope it. Period. This strict standard has led to an amazing progression of climbing accomplishments there spanning generations of climbers.
Bolting the route which you did doesn’t change a lot at Stoney by itself. Climbing something at that grade is not exactly something to write home about anyway. But what it does, what you have done, is to open a door. And that door is getting slammed hard in your face by climbers who understand the future better than you.
Of course advocates of bolting at Stoney will argue that lots of climbs are bolted at many areas. But the fact is that Stoney is a bouldering area. If routes there start getting bolted up then why not Yabo Arête. I mean jeez, a person could get hurt on that one. The Owens River Gorge, on the other hand, is a good example of a real sport climbing area. You won’t see very many climbers bouldering those routes, especially now that JB is gone.
I’ll give you props for posting up, and taking a position. I hope you’ll look into what’s happened there in Britain, realize your mistake, and give a hand to the removing of the bolts. That’s the road to respect from the climbing community at Stoney.
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 21, 2016 - 11:23pm PT
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Yes, the first part of the post dealt with the type of bolts I used, however I acknowledged that the issue of "IF" is what I wanted to have a conversation about. I didn't miss the issue, I got the trivial part out of the way. Gritstone is a completely unrelated topic.
My argument is that most all climbs at Stoney only exist because someone hammered a piton in a hairline crack which is now a hand or foothold. The entire place was used as a pin cushion for legends to find new techniques and hone their skills. The stone is too soft to lead with gear. The point is that most climbs here were FA on lead.
You are correct their are bolts all over the tops of these climbs. So what makes some bolts ok and others not. There is an aid line with about 14 bolts that nobody seems to care about. There are a few climbs that have rusted old bolts that nobody climbs purely for safety reasons.
I have asked numerous people their opinions and I can honestly say everyone was genuinely excited and agrees with me. It is my opinion that its the minority that would call foul for local ethics. One of the people threatening to chop the bolts said bolt away across the street just not here. Why would it be ok to bolt across the street on pristine sandstone but not somewhere with a pre existing pin scars and bolted lines.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 22, 2016 - 12:25am PT
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"I have asked numerous people their opinions and I can honestly say everyone was genuinely excited and agrees with me."
I'm a regular at Stony and many of my friends are too. I never heard anybody asking around before those misguided bolts were put in. Local consensus is to not bolt routes for leading at Stony Point. I don't know who you discussed this with but it wasn't anybody I know.
Ian, do you really think that you are the first person to want to install bolts at Stony? They are an eyesore and what gives anyone the right to bolt a climb that they did NOT establish? If you develop a new line and want to bolt it, fine. But stay the hell off previously established routes with your bolts.
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 22, 2016 - 02:26am PT
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I know i'm not the first to want to lead climbs that were established on lead.
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 22, 2016 - 03:07am PT
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Lets be fair, an eyesore at Stoney is the gallons of graffiti that cover the rock and the trash and glass all over. You have get right up to the climb to see those bolts.
Can I ask what you guys see as the downside. I've climbed pin scars both on top and lead now and I have to say that lead is more fun. Everyone else who's has climbed it had nothing but good things to say.
I honestly fail to see how it detracts.
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 22, 2016 - 03:21am PT
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it's sustainable
it's more fun
it's better training
it's faster so you can climb more
We are not talking about bolts in a trad crag here.
These climbs were not established on bolts, I know, but they were led from the ground up, and top roping is far from that.
you can still top rope if you want to
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 22, 2016 - 05:30am PT
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So who are these "numerous people", you speak of??
It seems to me that you did what you wanted to, rather than spoke to anybody who's been climbing at Stony for a while. Did you run this by any of the locals? They would have given you some perspective on what the ethics are.
In addition, your chains are too low to reach from above if you wanted to top rope the route.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Aug 22, 2016 - 06:27am PT
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I have asked numerous people their opinions and I can honestly say everyone was genuinely excited and agrees with me. It is my opinion that its the minority that would call foul for local ethics.
Woot?
Sounds just like Sloan...he asked 'numerous' people. That's complete bullsh#t. Apparently he only asked newbies on their first visit to Stoney.
That climb has been soloed and top roped a million times.
I'd be interested to hear why you chose that particular route Ian? Btw Ian, you're not the first person to try and reto bolt at Stoney. One time someone created (chiseled) and bolted a climb immediatly to the right of Maggie's Farm. This has happened before and will happen again, unfortunatley.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 22, 2016 - 08:43am PT
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I am trying to add to the enjoyment to this place we all love. I hope we can have a discussion about this.
IanR....SpaGetty.
You guys miss the point of the entire place.
If this stays then what?
Four really awesome leads on Beethoven??? That one can do in 30 min and move on?
The bolts are going to go. Period, end of discussion.
If you wish to redeem yourselves go and pull that sh#t.
Before I and my friends go and do it for you.
Good day.
Guy Keesee
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 22, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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Pull the bolts.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Aug 22, 2016 - 10:53am PT
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I can't say I support these bolts.
While I've taught many hundred newbie climbers here, for the most part, bolts have not enhanced the experience. All of my climbing classes have been TR's, and those TR bolts have been conveniences, not necessities. I'm sure there are routes that are exceptions.
But sport bolting fundamentally alters the sandstone, and weakens it. I don't support injuring the rock. I don't support taking what is there, and "improving" the rock.
Ian, what is problematic, is that you approached this as an individual desire, as opposed to including the experienced Stoney climbing community in the decision. Particularly the many veterans. AFTER THE FACT does not count.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2016 - 10:57am PT
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Hi guys, I bolted this. I realize this is a big point of contention. I would first like say that I did quite a lot of research on the glue-ins and have a background in construction. The holes were meticulously cleaned, brushed, and blown out. I used Quickrete high strength two part anchoring epoxy, and stainless steel Wave bolts. I also color matched the rock as best I could. This is by far the best way to sustainable bolt this quality of sandstone, and unlike expansion bolts, this type of bolt doesn't weaken the surrounding rock structure and should last decades. Now to the question of if they should stay. I want to say I have great respect for the history of Stoney Point. I have lived in the Valley my entire life and the Chatsworth Hills and Stoney have been my stomping grounds. I meant no disrespect to by doing this, In fact the opposite. I am trying to add to the enjoyment to this place we all love. I hope we can have a discussion about this. Thanks
I led "Machine Gun" on Ian's bolts. In the time It usually takes to set up top rope. It was led, followed, cleaned and moving on. Stoked, gave me a little more time to climb. I've long hoped someone would take modern bolting techniques and apply them to some routes in my backyard. Bummed its been met with so much negative feedback. I hope ya'll reach out to Ian and resolve the issue properly.
Yes, the first part of the post dealt with the type of bolts I used, however I acknowledged that the issue of "IF" is what I wanted to have a conversation about. I didn't miss the issue, I got the trivial part out of the way. Gritstone is a completely unrelated topic.
My argument is that most all climbs at Stoney only exist because someone hammered a piton in a hairline crack which is now a hand or foothold. The entire place was used as a pin cushion for legends to find new techniques and hone their skills. The stone is too soft to lead with gear. The point is that most climbs here were FA on lead.
You are correct their are bolts all over the tops of these climbs. So what makes some bolts ok and others not. There is an aid line with about 14 bolts that nobody seems to care about. There are a few climbs that have rusted old bolts that nobody climbs purely for safety reasons.
I have asked numerous people their opinions and I can honestly say everyone was genuinely excited and agrees with me. It is my opinion that its the minority that would call foul for local ethics. One of the people threatening to chop the bolts said bolt away across the street just not here. Why would it be ok to bolt across the street on pristine sandstone but not somewhere with a pre existing pin scars and bolted lines.
dude I gotta copy these comments! priceless..
There is an aid line with about 14 bolts that nobody seems to care about.
dude I took on that project because some misfit had taken the original aid line out then replaced it with wood screws glues with JB weld..
I was not happy about adding big bolts I wanted it original with star drives.. I did consult the locals and we thought about it for a few weeks before the project. You just cant go and add bolts whenever you want..
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 22, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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you can still top rope if you want to Like I said, missing the issue completely.
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Aug 22, 2016 - 12:16pm PT
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Although I do follow this form, I don't normally post.
I am local, and old. I have been climbing here since junior high in 65. I am not a good climber but I had a great time climbing the easy stuff. I climb because I like it. I have nothing to prove to anyone including myself. I climb purely because it makes me happy.
IMHO ... There are so many reasons why bolted routes are not good at stony point.
Some of these reasons are to protect the historical value of stony point as a world destination for climbing. One of the more important historical values of this place, is to prepare young and new climbers for bigger and more dangerous climbing. I'm thinking of big wall climber for the first time. Stony point has prepared many many many climbers for big wall Tradd climbing. There is no need for sport routes at this place. Everything here is either bouldering, or top roped climbs. Top roping will teach you to set natural anchors. This is very important when you climb the big stuff. There are chains and bolts for some routes. But we encourage natural anchors over these chains. Preserve the Rock and produce better climbers. The guys that take this on ... To me ... Are my current day John Muir ...
So ... Please, no bolts ...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 22, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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And another thing
IanR,how old are you?how long have you been climbing rock
Outdoors is not the gym,
The joy is in the process.
Generations, every 20 yrs have resisted the temptation to phook the place up.
Keeping purity, Risk, with real consequences, is important.
You don't need to understand
this is not yours to trash and leave in your review mirror.
We stand united coast to coast some places deserve bolting in an unrestrained fashion
And some places need to be
Kept bolt free......
Learn to climb, not hang on gear
Don't pull out on flakes that flex
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 22, 2016 - 05:14pm PT
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I give up. Almost never will we see cognitive dissonance at such a level.
I think the example I made of the gritstone was valid and should have been at least a little thought provoking. But our buddy Ian has attention deficit disorder. I'll say it again, go watch "Hard Grit." Real climbers doing real climbs in an area which remains boltless. Sh*t man, do you think the Stoney Pointers are being hard on you for bolting a years old classic? Try that in Britain. Best not to show up at the pub again unless you like being hauled away in an ambulance.
You speak of pin scars as if that justifies bolting. Piton craft is part of climbing's history. No one places pitons at the Point today. If someone did they would get the same or a bigger ration of Sh*t than you have. You're looking back when you should be looking ahead. So today bolting routes at Stoney might look futuristic to you. It's not. It deprives future climbers of the opportunity to do things their own way. To imagine instead of having to connect the dots.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Aug 22, 2016 - 06:05pm PT
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I sure don't support lead bolts @ stoney. I went climbing on sunday (not@ stoney) and was happy to hear the bolts were chopped. I even got to see a few of the offending bolts and congratulated the chopper. If/when other bolts appear at Stoney they will be chopped...maybe this time without warning so the offender can't reclaim his hangers. Stoney doesn't care who you are, your bolts will be chopped.
(the good news is my wrists didn't hurt after climbing...for those who know this is a much needed step for me!!!)
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 22, 2016 - 06:36pm PT
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Matty, glad to hear your wrist is ok. When you said it had kinda popped and had possibly reinjured it, I felt bad. It was good to have you out at the new crag yesteady and I look forward to seeing you there again soon.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 22, 2016 - 07:08pm PT
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Matty..... Hi, those were different bolts. The chopped bolts the Kid had are from some commercial enterprise.... Somebody's trying to make a Rappelling + zip line adventure experience. That sh#t needs to be addressed also. The kid took offense to some bolts getting slammed into the middle of a Reardon classic.
Those were not even for climbing... Just some big ass bolts in the middle of a classic problem.
See you out again, heal up good.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2016 - 07:32pm PT
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Guyman Two different mad bolt vandelizer stories?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 22, 2016 - 07:53pm PT
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Pyro, Yes there is a new guy named Klaus who runs some sort of guide service. He put up a zip line off the top of the back wall and placed 2 bolts into a boulder due East, to anchor the downward end of the zip. One of the new members of the tribe took umbrage at this and chopped the bolts yesterday. He brought them to show us yesterday and received high praise from us for his prompt and selfless deed.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2016 - 07:55pm PT
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Lol!
Good job boys!
Holy sh#t i gotta get out of the ocean to do some sandstone traverse..
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Aug 22, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
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PYRO!!! Come back to us!!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Aug 22, 2016 - 10:33pm PT
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Bill- Wrist never felt like it popped or anything, just wasn't prepared to pull as hard as needed for that many moves in a row. I wanna take it easier on my way back and not jump in too deep too fast. Last thing I need is to re-injure myself. Thanks for the invite I had fun and will definitely see you all out there again-
Matt
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Aug 23, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Yo IanR - check out the trailer for the Stoney Point documentary: https://vimeo.com/27140457
Having spent 4 years making the film, I think I can safely say that not one single person I interviewed would be OK with the bolts you installed. Heck, a few of them already told you as much right here in this thread. Many of them have been climbing at Stoney for 30+ years and have represented Stoney Point across the globe. Who are you? How long have you been climbing at Stoney Point and who were the people that approved of your route?
I think the only reasonable course of action now is for you to apologize and remove your bolts. Believe me, that would go a long way. You could be drinking beers with the crew this Thursday!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 23, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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Wait i gottapee..... . . . .Many of them have been climbing at Stoney for 30+ years and have represented Stoney Point across the globe. Who are you? How long have you been climbing at Stoney Point ayh. . . . .?(holysht,sic))@v@(
Cole
okay, what year is it again I get that all confused ... What! ....???...well then More like 40+ years!
IanR, I invite you to please come to Conneticut. Where you will find supportive attention
To your bolting of established climbs.
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curlie
Trad climber
SLO, CA
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Aug 23, 2016 - 03:14pm PT
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Hey Cole - is the Stoney documentary still for sale online anywhere? I need to buy a copy or two. Either digital or DVD is fine by me.
Edit: Found it. Downloadable version for sale at iClimb.
It was so damned good to see you guys last Thursday. I miss that place so much! Happy I could still do one of my old problems, though I'm bummed that I'm completely out of tune on Bob's mantle. Guess I'll just have to visit more regularly. :)
I don't know that I can add much that hasn't already been said about the bolts. What kind they are, how long they'll last, or how fun it would be to lead the route are all completely missing the point, Ian. The point is that there are pre-established ethics at The Point, and you didn't bother to meet enough locals or do adequate research before busting out the drill. You might getting berated a bit in this thread, but Cole is right. If you can swallow your pride, admit that you acted hastily, and do your bit to make it right, you'll get much better responses.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 23, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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The offending bolts on Machine Gun /Pin Scars are now gone. I just got a text from the chopping committee. Fact.
Ian R, I sincerely hope you learn something from this and learn to ask around before adding bolts to a route you didn't do the first ascent of.
Show up by Turlock on Thursday and I'll have a beer for ya, for real, no joke.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Aug 23, 2016 - 07:12pm PT
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I'd take Levy up on his offer. Most of the people speaking out against the bolts are some of the coolest climbers I've met. Class acts in my view, though class is subject to perspective, lol.
Hope the Stoney Crew is doing good.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 23, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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Hey Justin, check your email. I owe you something.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Aug 23, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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Didn't get an email Levy. jross 1 8 38 @ gmail.com with no spaces is my primary one.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2016 - 08:25am PT
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Good god you can tow a truck outta the ditch with those things.. thanks guyman levy for cleaning this crap off the wall..
Do the bolt holes need patching?
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:38am PT
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Could someone please throw a fresh coat of paint on that bench. Bob would appreciate it.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:41am PT
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The bolts got CHOPPED yesterday! WOO HOO. Done deal. THANKS.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:47am PT
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Hi, Pyro.... Curle.... Justin ... et all.
I didn't need to lift a finger. By the time I got there after work at 5:45.... the mess was all cleaned up. Some grinding of the epoxy and blending in will be completed soon....
and to Ian and Getty.... come on out, nobody is going to hold anything against you. We have all done things that pissed off the old Establishment.
Thank you to all that helped.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 24, 2016 - 09:29am PT
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Put a bolt in IANs head. there is nothing inside it but marbles. What was he thinking, look at me I'm so cool, I RAP bolted a TR that was put up before he was born.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 24, 2016 - 09:42am PT
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All my film canesters are wacked! How old is that grey top with the tape?
..J Constine. . . . . What was he thinking look at me I'm so cool, I RAP bolted a TR that was put up before he was born.
My invitation to IanR is also For Real, come east, There is all kinds of rock .and crowds wanting to climb, if only it was all in place for them. Pick an area find quality rock you like.
The south east maintains as strict ethics but also has a vast off grid - around every corner of
rock is a line of bolts in some places.
There is a bit of a slow anchor seed program, that needs any skilled volunteer.
Get here and Guide, Gym/1pitch job and the gym can pay you for developing cliffs for them..
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 24, 2016 - 11:21am PT
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If you are thinking of doing this...placing bolts at Stoney Point. Please ask the community first. Sport routes will not be tolerated by the community. I have been climbing at SP since 1978. Pitons used to be banged in cracks...thankfully, this is not going on anymore. The community does not tolerate pins. Same goes for bolted climbs...ZERO tolerance.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2016 - 11:25am PT
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I heard a BBQ is on the horizon?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 24, 2016 - 12:32pm PT
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^^^^ after a saw how they make Hotdogs. I will never eat one again. Disgusting at the very least.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Aug 24, 2016 - 12:35pm PT
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Lips and as#@&%es Jeff, no different than chorizo. Mmmmm mmmm good.
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 24, 2016 - 01:03pm PT
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I have some paint that will match really well, I'll get it. I grew up here and I love this place. I was not trying to f*#k it up.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2016 - 02:06pm PT
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I grew up here and I love this place
Ian I'm born and raised here also.. many of us are with love from Stoney!
welcome to Stoney Point... we need to meet and drink a beer..
earlier today I talked to guyman set ur calendar for sept8th HOT DOG BBQ
I have some paint that will match really well, I'll get it
you don't use paint when patching so use it to cover up graffiti
i'll put a power bar inside of a bun for Medusa..
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 24, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
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good job on the chopping!
PYRO
email me: russwalling@gmail.com
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 24, 2016 - 02:27pm PT
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Sept 8th.....
old time hot dog cook out.
This was started by Cole, I will do the part he did.
I have a BBQ... I will get it fired up about 40 min before sundown, by Boulder one.
I will bring some Mustard, Ketchup, Relish and about 1 pack of hot dogs and one pack of buns (the number never equals up) just to kick off the event.
YOU bring whatever hot dogs, bratwurst, chicken dog, tofu dog or whatever you like to BBQ/grill. (low and slow brisket is not a good idea)
Also bring whatever beverage you want- be ready to share.
And be ready to have a little party at the point....
Ian... please introduce yourself, I will tell you about something I did back in the day that really pissed of the establishment and caused me years of embarrassment.
And that paint you have..... A long time Stoney Local who is on the Taco as "justhemaid" and is a really good artist, who now lives in Bishop. She was the one man anti-grafitti crew and with her now gone there is a big hole in the org chart. Somebody needs to fill her big shoes and start whacking back the mess that is painted all over the place.
I look forward to a big hot dog roast to kick off the fall season.
tell your friends.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 24, 2016 - 02:37pm PT
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Paint for the rock, or paint for the bench?
Best not to paint over graffiti?
I'll do my best to show up 9-8, but I'm with Constine re the hot dogs. No can do.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 24, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
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I am pretty sure he means paint for the bench.
Ian R, I'm happy to see you are interested in trying to make Stoney Point a better place. I suspect that we have more in common than we are dissimilar. I welcome you to join the group of locals who tend to congregate over at Turlock on Tuesday's & Thursday's.
I look forward to the day when we can all look back on this situation and have a good laugh.
Peace out.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 24, 2016 - 03:06pm PT
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Kris... be good to see you.... you bring anything you wish to eat
and the paint that Ian has .... thats for wiping out graffiti, yes we do paint over it, so it fades into the rock.
Rincon.... what was the exact green paint? Sherwin Williams?
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IanR
Sport climber
VAN NUYS
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Aug 24, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
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Thanks for the invite!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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Somebody needs to fill her big shoes and start whacking back the mess that is painted all over the place.
Nice beta!
Man, you guys make me wanna come! Especially seeing the hotties above with buns in line for dogs. I grew to 170# eatin lips and azzholes!
Never been to Stoney to actually climb. Haha. What's the bivy situ around there? Is the Eagles Nest stil abandoned? Heheee
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curlie
Trad climber
SLO, CA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 09:18am PT
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Aw, man! If I hadn't been f*#king off so much already this summer, I'd totally come down for the BBQ. Please post lots of pix and drink some beers for me! Also, climb something. :)
Here are a couple vintage photos I recently dug up.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Aug 26, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Yous guys can bet Matty'll be there!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 26, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
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Nice turn out last nite.
Looking forward to Hot Dogs on Sept 8 .... tell your friends.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 26, 2016 - 03:06pm PT
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I had a beer for Ian R but he never showed up. I ended up giving Tripper Jack the beer which he appreciated.
Nice crowd last night.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Aug 28, 2016 - 07:09pm PT
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I had a beer for Ian R but he never showed up.
^^^ means nothing w/out pics💋
Maybe if you got a more sporty beer he might show? Ha
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Aug 30, 2016 - 09:51am PT
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Aug 30, 2016 - 10:09am PT
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It's very impressive the way the bolting issue was handled here both by the longtime locals and the bolter. Maybe there's still hope for our climbing community.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 30, 2016 - 12:13pm PT
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PYRO and GUY!
All set... check your email.... make it happen!
Take some pics for us guys trapped out here on the sand.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2016 - 02:15pm PT
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got your email Russ!
guyman do we have enough people around to do a raffle?
I have some REI dividend money which could be of good use..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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There are enough Stoney Pointers in Tuolumne now you could do a raffle here.
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SpaGetty
climber
SFV, California
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...FOUND GEAR...
Found some top rope gear on my circuit today above Nut Cracker. If it's yours shoot me an email spagettysgarage@live.com
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Hi.... not mine.
See you Thursday??
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SpaGetty
climber
SFV, California
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Working the closing shift Thursday. I'll catch y'all next week.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2016 - 11:26am PT
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hot dog party tomorrow sept 8th 3pm till dark..
hope to see some familiar faces!!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I will be there with some of the old crew...hopefully sandlow, huth, snyder...will try to get johnson but doubt it.
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burnin' vernon
climber
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Bouldered Stoney a LOT in the 80's. Actually met Coonyard there one day just chillin' in the shade while his kid did some tentative bouldering. Stoney has a rich history that should be preserved. Not sacrificed for some noobie whippersnapper's fame and glory story. Good on y'all for chopping that sh#t.
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Mar'
Trad climber
Fanta Se
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Yay!! Thanks, Man!!
I also used to hang out there when using the stables next door (in the 80s) as a location for shooting aspiring talent for one of the modeling agencies in Beverly Hills.
I haven't been there since 2005~ what a great place!!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Medusa may show up. But he is not eating any Hot Dogs.
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hooth
Boulder climber
Sconnie
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I will be leaving work in hollywood early for a "doctors appt" and hoping to hit the point by 6pm or just after. just what the doctor ordered, beer and bouldering... ill bring a bag of sconnie cheese curds. - huth
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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I'll be there around 6. I'm bringing disposable plates, dogs & chicken sausages and some beer.
Hell yeah.
Edit: Ka-ree, goddess of destruction (Curly here on S. T.) just informed me that she will be there tonight!!
Captain Buzzkill will try to make it too, he has a back to school night to attend.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Cool all.....6p is when I will get there.
it would be super cool to see Medusa
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Heck, even I'll be there. See ya all around 6.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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I'm hoping for some pics and at least 39 FISH green labels there as a thirst quencher!
Have fun! Wish I was there!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Russ.... thanks for the donation. We are in your debt.
I think at least 4 x 12 are in the ICE, chillin right now.
Tad... wish you could be there....all the TACOs would be cool.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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w00t!!!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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im sure its killer!
thinkin bout you dudes all day while driving stakes for my 6am pour:(
wanna ramble out there sometime soon.. hope ur down with zucchini and pbr'sss tho!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 07:05am PT
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Awesome HOT DOG fest last night.
For starters had to visit with bob
Currently today working till noon Russ
Will download pics this afternoon.
All 48 beers were consumed..
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Bummed I missed it!! Next time.
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hairy potter
Boulder climber
san gabriel valley
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I wanted to make it down to the dog fest and reintroduce myself but I was too busy sandbagging the young'uns on critter crack
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Video dude need to lose some weight.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
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YES!
Just another fine day at STONEY POINT!
what it looked like before the party of 30 people!
TOPANGA CYN Road
NEVER CLOSED!
BACK SIDE!
I started the day at STONEY at the BACK SIDE
TRAFFIC EVERYDAY!
just pull over and drink a BEER!
more back side bouldering: MICKEY MOUSE
Thank you Russ Walling for DONATE STONEY POINT HOT DOG BBQ!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 04:48pm PT
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Meat head Demit FRITZ smoking a CIG!
lol...
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 04:50pm PT
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Let the STOKE BEGIN
Old school Carry rock while SLAB footwork climbing
sunset view
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 04:55pm PT
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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He used the chiseled hold.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 05:04pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 05:18pm PT
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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All 48 beers were consumed.. Who could have predicted such a thing?
Looks like fun was had by all. Too bad I had to work. Oh yeah, there was the whole driving from Santa Monica during rush hour thing too.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Bitchen™™™™
Good job on the weenie roast and festivities dudes!!
Thanks for the pics and vids too. #SweetAction
Edit: Tad: I actually am a homebrewer! You must be psychic! Maybe for the next one I'll ship a keg over to the Stoney Crew.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Sep 12, 2016 - 04:42pm PT
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Brings a tear to my eye to see the tradition continue. Wish I coulda been there! JT season just around the corner ya'll!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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Missed you Cole!
Thanks Tad
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 16, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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The Hot Dogs on the right, with the burn marks, are Vegan ones. I couldn't figure out how to get them to grill properly.... thin skin, no grease...
anybody know any special trick for them? Rub em down with olive oil???
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 16, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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Guy,
Yep rub them down with olive oil and grill till golden brown then throw directly in the trash.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 17, 2016 - 08:02pm PT
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Anybody lose anything at Stoney this evening? Shoot me a pm with an accurate description and we can figure how to get it back to you.
Guy, Levy and other locals, the stuff I found was not insignificant, so please keep an ear to the ground if anyone who might not see this thread asks around about the stuff.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:51pm PT
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Batrock, what do you mean throw them in the trash.
How irresponsible of you!
That's what my compost pile is for.
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Will Kerr
Boulder climber
|
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Sep 22, 2016 - 08:36am PT
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Fat Dad!!! I left some things of importance on the 17th and didn't realize til I tried to climb again a couple days later. Please get back to me if you see this, heading to Yosemite this Sunday and was hoping to have said items.
Edit: tried direct messaging and no answer. Also anyone know where the actual super topo messaging is?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 22, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
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Will, email him through his profile (in case you don't know...)
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 22, 2016 - 03:04pm PT
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Will, email him through his profile (in case you don't know...)
Although this often fails around here.
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Will Kerr
Boulder climber
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Sep 23, 2016 - 10:15am PT
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Yeah seems to be pretty unreliable. FAT DAD!!!! Email me at will_kerr@yahoo.com if you see this.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 23, 2016 - 01:57pm PT
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Will, just saw this. Sent you a pm.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2016 - 07:21am PT
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Thanks for the black and white photos of Stoney Point..
I-b-goB
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Katiekorn
Sport climber
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Props to Eric for helping to keep the point graffiti free. Heal up quickly
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Yep props to Eric.
Heal up fast.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 28, 2016 - 08:36am PT
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Rained hard ..... starting at 5a.... when I went past SP on the way to work, the rain had stopped.... for now.
We need it!!
Badly
So the place is officially CLOSED for now, lets hope we get a one week steady dump.
And I would just like to say something to that group of NEW CLIMBERS who have been top roping at Beethoven latley..... I watched you walk in with your gear and your 18 pack of Tecate beer, nothing wrong with that.
But you did abandon all 18 empty cans and about 50 cig butts ... so I am calling fowl on you dudes, we will meet soon and discuss.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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i-b-goB - wow!
Went through your link to the history of the SF Valley. I can remember back in the late 30s when as a child (of course)I descended in my father's car into the valley over the newly paved Sepulveda Pass. There were very few paved roads back then - just the main thoroughfares - everything else, dirt!.
In 1961, having lived in the LA basin since I was 3 years old and in the Manhattan Beach area quite a bit of that time, I was introduced to rock climbing at Stoney. At the time I lived in a brand new tract home in East Anaheim. By the end of 1961, I decided I had to live closer to Stoney, so I uprooted my family of 4, bought a brand new tract home in Canoga Park and moved!
I became a "regular" at Stoney with Hennek, Boche, McLean, Kamps, and Higgins. Kamps was the only one my age - the rest were still in high school.
God, did we have great times at Stoney!
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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I became a "regular" at Stoney with Hennek, Boche, McLean, Kamps, and Higgins.
WOW, Don Lauria!
You guys are the bomb!
Glad you liked the website me too really good throughout!
Cheers, Matt
I met Russ in SLO from Ken Kliss a climber up there years back, you guys have some great stories for sure!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Don Lauria ..... solid post.
SP in 1961 .... I was 8 .... went there on a Day-care field trip, I recall the Ranaldi DIP... drive down into a big wash... ford a small stream... steep up hill - all on dirt roads.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 11, 2016 - 07:21am PT
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Ok this is just a notice to the folks who did the hit and run last nite at Stoney........
Making a U turn from your parking spot on Topanga is one of the most reckless things you can do in your car!
Anyway the Motorcycle rider you took out is one lucky dude..... he was able to throw himself over the guardrail to avoid getting hit by all the oncoming traffic..... his Harley didn't hit any cars..... after 96 arrived they patched him up and he walked out of the ambulance.
But to you miss blond with the skinhead BF we do have a description of your car.... we do have 3 people who saw you do that messy U turn. The police do have some of the numbers from your plate and maybe the big traffic camera mounted on the pole .... right there... will help.
And thanks to the climbers.. John, Joe and Eric, who rushed up the hill and got into the traffic and directed it into one lane around the fallen rider.
Drive safe now.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Nov 11, 2016 - 08:57am PT
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New routes going up at Stoney today. Jus' sayin'.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 11, 2016 - 01:08pm PT
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Making a U turn from your parking spot on Topanga is one of the most reckless things you can do in your car!
Unreal. Glad the biker is okay.
So they pulled out in font of the guy on the Harley and he ran into them? Then they fled the scene?? Sick f*cks.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 11, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
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Yes... that's the way it went down... we were down at Boulder 1. It was dark- all we herd was the sound of something scraping along the pavement.... It went on forever. I thought somebody had lost a trailer or something and it was getting dragged a long way...
The boys who went up the hill did a great job and walked right out into the traffic and used headlamps to get the cars stopped.... the cars were just swerving around the dude who was rolling around on the pavement. He in a lot of pain from the 4th degree road rash on his knees/arms and hands and was worried about his bike. (a true biker) Lucky for him a AMR ambulance stopped and they did what they could for the guy.
The 911 system was overloaded and it took me a long time .... about 5 min to get through.
and after all that, the dude climbed out of the LAFD ambulance (#96- Mike Waughs old outfit)all bandaged up and was able to get a ride home.
Some friends of his rolled up in a truck and I helped them roll the bike into the truck.
a wild nite for sure.... the night bouldering was really good- it was about 75 at 8pm.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2016 - 05:11pm PT
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Goddamn!
Hope those punks get caught.
Heal up biker dude.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Nov 11, 2016 - 05:58pm PT
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Wow! Man, Stoney Point could make the best reality show ever, for real!
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Ghosty
Social climber
LA, Cali
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Nov 17, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
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Found a crash pad and 2 pairs of shoes attached to it on the side of topanga today. Seems like someone forgot to load their car up!
If someone can message me the make of the pad and shoes then we can meet up, otherwise I appreciate the free stuff!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2016 - 07:44am PT
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Bump for the free stuff..
I did the same thing a few years back..
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Korymoto
climber
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Nov 22, 2016 - 11:36am PT
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Hey you found my stuff! thank you so much for picking it up, i tried to email you but maybe it hasn't went through. My phone # is 805-889-9115 if you could give me a Text/call/email i could describe it all for you. Motokory2@hotmail.com
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
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Stoney Point looking south in the early 1950s, before Topanga went through to the 118 Freeway. The old Santa Susana Pass Road begins its ascent up the hills at this point. Source: Chatsworth Historical Society
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Korymoto
climber
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Nov 28, 2016 - 12:35pm PT
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Can somebody help me get ahold of Ghostly I've tried emailing him multiple times. Could somebody pass along my information??
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Nov 28, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
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Guyman, you know either one of these folks, can you help them?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 28, 2016 - 04:05pm PT
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I will ask around....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2016 - 09:56am PT
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Korymoto.... PM sent. If you do not get it- post up, or send me a PM....
see you at Stoney.
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Korymoto
climber
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Nov 29, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
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Didn't get your pm. the email server on this websight must be down, could you email me directly at Motokory2@hotmail.com
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 29, 2016 - 02:38pm PT
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Done ..... MotoGP? or MotoCross?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 30, 2016 - 02:38pm PT
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Russ thanks for the heads up.
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Ghosty
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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My bad Kory I dont check this forum often and never got any kind of email or notification. I just emailed you.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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^^^^^ Awesome, Jim!
Flying out to LA in about a week and a half and hoping to check out Stoney Point for the first time, then heading out to JTree...life is good! :)
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Jamesthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, California
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Hey LilaBiene,
Any chance you'll come north to Bishop or Mammoth? Or Death Valley (we stopped for a day but it's storming in Mammoth so we decided to hang out here for a few more days (weeks?)
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Hi Jim! I will private message you -- currently my plans are to climb in JTree through ca. Tues, the 17th. Then Fri, the 20th - 22nd I'm planning to head to Mariposa to see BooDawg. There are possibilities in the middle! :)
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Lila,
Let us know when you want to do Stoney and we'll try to have a locals reception to show you around. Not many left who knew your dad but plenty who could reveal the magic of the place.
If you can spend a couple of hours that would be best. Walk around it, see all the aspects. Climb to the top. Visit the great crevasse and the Native American camps. It will be all green with the rain we are having. A good time to visit.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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How does Friday the 13th sound? :)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The Lake is forming up really good this year.... right now the stone is soaked. Pretty soon now we will see that greener than real grass growing all over.
Ms LilaBiene... your Dad (who was before my time) like many others, really loved Stoney, I hope you have a good visit.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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:) Thanks -- I'm psyched to finally be able to visit.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Weather looks good. Heading out to Stoney today.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Please stay off the rock at Stoney. It is way too wet and you will just break the holds off. Stoney should never be climbed at (except maybe Hot Tuna traverse) for most of a week after a good rain storm.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Please stay off the rocks
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2017 - 09:45am PT
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Gonna get more soaked by this monday head over to apes wall
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Lila,
Friday the 13 is supposed to be wet. But still a long way off. I could possibly be there in the morning. Want to head to the mountains to ski in the afternoon.
Maybe Guyman, Levy, Pyro, SOWR or others can come if you give us a time.
Spider
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Hey, thanks, Spider. I will post again next week before I fly out, but I am at your guys' disposal -- you are the ones kind enough to show me around. :) So, if you pick a time in the a.m., I will make sure to be there.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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10b .... come on out tomorrow morning... I have been working on cleaning up some of the ART. Rainy days are best, you get all muddy and everything.
And Gome... its still OK to do mantles. I do show all the PAD people who show up when its raining, to the Lions Head and the Wilson Mantles. But all they want to do is MASTERS.
But THE REAL ISSUE are the scheduled guide services, REI and that dude in Chatsworth... cliffs and crags or whatever he calls his outfit.
They show up in a steady drizzle, with ropes at the ready. I have walked next to the GUIDE and the group of noobs.. telling the noobs not to climb at Stoney when its wet, or any sandstone, and letting the guide know that HE is a total as#@&%e.
Makes me popular with everybody.
I don't get it
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 11, 2017 - 08:35pm PT
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LiliBeane..... you still coming out?
Looking like it might be sunny on Friday.
I would love to meet you and show you around Stoney.
After 3p works best for me, my boss is pretty understanding when I tell him "I must go to Stoney"....
The PM function on Taco is on the fritz...
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Jan 11, 2017 - 09:31pm PT
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Yes! Would love to see Stoney! Here is my email - dolt.original@gmail.com. I'm flying in late tomorrow & will visit Dolt's resting place in the morning. 3p works great - thank you so much. PM me & I'll send my mobile no. Yay!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 12, 2017 - 07:57am PT
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I'm really sorry I can't be there.
I will be there on Tuesday.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jan 12, 2017 - 08:04am PT
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I have been working on cleaning up some of the ART. Rainy days are best, you get all muddy and everything
Come on, let's go.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 12, 2017 - 09:13am PT
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Lila... msg sent via E-mail.... see ya at 3:30...
10b... I might bring my kit to SP on Sat afternoon. I have found the best color is a Sherwin Williams Tint known as MUSHROOM #HSGW2494 .... in flat out door paint. A 4" old brush works best, with the bristles sticking out at all angles. You never brush, rather just dab all over the lines and let the paint go on very spotty and thin. This way the ART just sort of fades away. I also have some Sherwin Williams flat white that I mix in and repeat after the first layer dries off ... I have worked over some spots and am starting to get the hang of it.... it just sort of dissolves the art so you can't read the love letter to the GF...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jan 12, 2017 - 09:19am PT
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God, I hope you are joking.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 13, 2017 - 07:40am PT
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Mark no joke....
Justhemaid and Jim Wilson were doing the duty, but for the last few years there has been nobody doing the work...
Its hard and takes time and $$$$$ .
I have had a whole bunch of the young climbers asking what they can do.
When I have the colors figured out we are going to mark out all of the ART.
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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Jan 13, 2017 - 01:57pm PT
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FYI last time i was there (maybe a couple weeks ago before the soak) i saw the "clean up" that the guy on mountain project was talking about and i must say it looks terrible. it looks like a real half ass effort and sure its hard work but he should've left it to someone else who has more experience. It looks like he took a brush and followed the exact lines that the taggers made and definitely went over some of the holds but then he didnt do the small obvious trailside rocks which everyone walks by. just my opinion but other people also agreed that he did a terrible job.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 16, 2017 - 09:41am PT
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Moe Beta..... working on it... quite alone I might add. The folks from MP came out and trucked off a big pile of, two truck loads, of trash. That is a really good thing. I have been doing the paint out all by myself and it takes a lot of time and you must go back over the same ground many times or it looks like you just slapped paint on quickly.
I have found that it takes several applications of just dabbed on paint, in different shades. Look at SP from the North, as you drive down Topanga...
I have rubbed out 3 of those big murals you can see from the 118! but there is still a ton more to go.
I agree the sh#t along the trails, especially the bright metalic blue, is most offensive. Its really hard to cover because you need to start with something that is quite thick.
And I agree it looks like sh#t also, but what is the alternative?
To do nothing?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 16, 2017 - 09:51am PT
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Thanks Guyman for the clean up work.
Sorry to miss Lila. The mountains were calling and I had to go.
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chefer
climber
Altadena, CA
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Jan 16, 2017 - 10:27am PT
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Is it okay to climb at stoney today? Is the rock dry enough yet?
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 16, 2017 - 10:37am PT
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This was one of the great precipitation events of recent LA memory... Everything will be soaked to its core and needs tons of time (to be sticky)... while climbing there would be scenic, beautiful... I'm guessing alot of holds could be delicate... and if you need the practice/pump choose problems whose style doesn't risk breaking a hold. I usually never arrive later than 7am though. Mid day things can be cooked through even after rain... but its low friction for sure, so the visit will be what you make of it... Enjoy!
regarding the PCA cleanup- I understand everyones concerns about how to remove tags... and even though it does look sloppy and rough, makes hoof-and-mouth more true to itself... I always thought it best to just leave them up : / unless I guess they cover super main problems... thinking it like a spot akin to 'burnside' for skateboarding... I think it a minor miracle that there isnt less of it at stoney point . very much appreciate the efforts in garbage and the new stewardship evolving as the community grows. <3
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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Jan 18, 2017 - 01:15pm PT
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Guy, I appreciate all the hard work but i guess i didn't fully understand that it is a process..Hopefully it'll become less noticeable as time goes on. In person the cover-up is more noticeable and doesnt like quite natural but in pictures the graffiti does seem to disappear. I guess doing the work is better than not doing it in some cases. The cover-up on pyramid rock down the trail is a full blanket of solid beige. That might be better for the trailside rocks that dont have climbs on them. The northside of the park is getting hit a lot more these days. This issue is quite frustrating, one area gets better and another area gets worse. Its like a never ending cycle..very frustrating for sure but at least someone is trying.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 18, 2017 - 02:45pm PT
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Moe... i appreciate any and all comments. There are a few people working on this-- who I don't know. Did someone cover up the Metalic Blue on pyramid? The place where "corner the market" is located???
EDIT: Yes the solid beige wall of paint... I decided to do this this way because if you go at rocks that have problems and just put on a nice thick coat of paint... the footholds and hand holds are ruined... I try to stay off of them... the taggers paint is thin and wears off quickly, so why add more.
I just looked at the blue and decided oh sh#t... I need to start doing something about all of this sh#t...
I know painting stuff out looks like hell, but I think that just obliterating the taggers name and what they did to the GF or how much they smoke... helps.
say hi, next time you see me... I like puttin names to peoples avatars... I do think I know you.
Peace
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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Jan 20, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
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Guy, you know who I am for sure! We've "met" each other many times at stoney and even hung out at jeff's one night hah no worries i understand that in the groves of people that you meet, the names get lost. Its Moe!
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jan 25, 2017 - 07:48am PT
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Took some friends, from out of town, there yesterday. They wanted to see it as they had heard what a great place it was. They were disappointed. They said all the holds were breaking off.
They also said they didn't like the paint on the rocks.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jan 25, 2017 - 08:30am PT
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after a long period of rain, STAY OFF THE ROCK FOR A WEEK.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 25, 2017 - 08:48am PT
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10b.... thank you for your constructive comments.
I too do not like the paint on the rocks.
Good day, kind sir.
Listen to Jeff.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jan 25, 2017 - 01:29pm PT
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I see the hook in all that bait and I'm not biting, 10b.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 25, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
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Yeah but the gnome whose never climbed there according to silverback, G_Gnome,
(With the greatest respect sir) I will bite!
10b, you should gnome better - don't eat the brown acid...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Hi, all ...... some GEAR was found today at the base of Beethoven.
If it is yours, please contact me... with a post on this topic thread.
We will get the stuff back to you.
THX
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Morning TAD.....
Its raining again!!!! YES YES YES
big puddles forming up and the Creek is running strong.
I wonder if this is the year that Turlock Boulder -- Rolls over!!??
For those of you who are familiar with the place, but haven't visited for a few years, the last round of housing made the water flow differently than it was before. So every time we get good strong rains a creek flows roughly parallel to the trail, from the Lions Head to Topanga. The ground between Turlock and Concert Rock has been getting eroded more and more each year... for example to do Pink Floyd you could stand on the ground and grab the starting holds (unless you are one of the sick midgets) Now... even the tallest climbers must run and jump up a long way to catch hold. The ground has gone down almost two feet... the ground below Hoof n Mouth is going away quickly and it won't be long before the whole thing is undermined and it will flip over on to one side.... New problems!
we will keep ya updated.
All the dirt just below Peaters feet is now gone... and back behind the truck you can see PF's starting holds.... you almost need to do some moves now to get to the hoof.
Geologic Time Marches on.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Yeah, there was a time that the traverse from the left of that picture to the mouth hole was called 'Short Man's Revenge' because it was all so low and close to the ground. Now I can barely reach the starting holds.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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I used to boulder at stoney from 69 to the late 70s and have been out there again recently and the changes are remarkable as, I suppose, they should be. Some really nice routes that I used to enjoy are just gone and the crowds of folks on the weekends are pretty remarkable as well. Change is inevitable I guess. Changes are just new challenges and to some extent I think that's a very good thing.
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Barbarian
climber
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Hoof in Mouth used to be just over waist level.
I must be really old.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Paul.... yes... things have changed, a lot more climbers are going to Stoney... but the smiles of these new climbers are the same sort of smiles I had on my face 44 years ago.... that stays the same.
The place has a pretty good vibe... new climbers getting better and learning the ropes.
Like Jenna here, she finally got "The Crack" AKA McHales Overhang... took her one year or so of working hard to get better.
"I must be really old". .... Barbarian, no-- you are ancient, a fossil from an earlier epoch. Kids today don't even think you existed... they are skeptical of me even.... but some speak of you in hushed reverent tones.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nice Rain soaked weekend.... went to Stoney looking to clean up some ugly mess. I took out one that I could see every morning, way up high... its invisible now.
Found this stuff.... might need to start with some Kilts first off. This was done by a whole crew... time for it to go.
and this...
Good thoughts, for an old friend.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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I was going to stop and check out Stoney Point after surfing Rincon with my son this weekend but the rain shut that down, however; this always catches my eye going up the 101 grade out of Oxnard. I found some obscure info on it- I'd have to believe it has some local history or access issues. It seems to be in the same band of rock as Stoney Point.
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MountainShark
Trad climber
Ventura, Ca
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Much different than Stoney. It's Volcanic braccia (I think). Sharp and sheds in layers. Closer resemblance to echo cliffs. This is Conejo mountain area, parts known as Mystery Science Theater and the outcast Boulder.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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That makes sense- thanks!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Contractor....that catches my eye also.... so does the Poison oak forest blocking the way.
Just across the FWY from that is a Park... the Park has a big ass boulder right by the parking lot. Sometimes it's off limits some times the fence is gone. Over hangs on three sides with holes and crimps....coolest spot to boulder inland.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Great info and thanks! I'm always looking to mix in a boulder or two when heading North to meet my son (Cal Poly) for a surf.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2017 - 02:24pm PT
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contractor on your way down the grade toward the nard on the left is what they call Indian head. stainless Steve Edwards and David Gould were the ones who put the bolts into the volcanic rock on that thing. in the early 90's I climbed all of em. kind of fun watching all the cars on the freeway.
guyman the Camarillo springs boulder is closed but yeah it was a fun traverse just like boulder 1. the bouldering on the top of the grade mtn is CHOSS filled with scorpions.
my grandpa lived at Camarillo springs so my twin brother and I would hit up the grade climbs. grandpa told me el cap was out of my league boy was he wrong..
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Nice Pyro! I'd love to stretch out on some boulders between driving.
I also found out from my son that El Capitan was uncrowded and going off while I was grovelling at Rincon (Friday).
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MountainShark
Trad climber
Ventura, Ca
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Thanks for the history pyro. Bolts on Indian head are shot out, no good. I e been meaning to replace them, hopefully soon, and lead and clean that line.
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Feb 20, 2017 - 11:37am PT
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Hey all,
My friend Rica is going to LA for the week from Canada- she lived in Malibu for years-but has never been to Stoney as she only started to climbing recently.
Do you guys do the Wednesday? meet-up still?
Roughly what time?
thanks
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 20, 2017 - 12:46pm PT
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Stoney Point is closed for the winter. It being sandstone and getting rained on every day means that it falls apart if you try to climb on it right now. Try again in a month or two.
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Feb 20, 2017 - 01:06pm PT
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ok will tell her not to go there, thanks.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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So I imagine with the return of some warm weather, the hordes will be descending on Stoney this weekend..... Its still dripping wet with lots of life saving water seeping out from the cracks and crevices.
The ART removal in going good, we had a sort of a stand off with a group of taggers... It was just Joe and I and 5 of these young punks.
They now know that WE will paint over that sh#t just as soon as we see it.
Look for an announcement about a paint clean up... we have figured out the right colors and technique to cover that stuff up.... If we could get about 20-30 people out for a day we could erase 90% if that sh#t.
We need to figure out a way to erase the artist.
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Mike Jian
Boulder climber
Fresno
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Hey all,
So I'm planning to come down here to climb this Saturday with a group of friends from the central valley. How has the weather been down here? I'm aware that the locals here don't like it when people climb after it has rained, so I'm just wondering would it be a good idea to come down this weekend.
Thanks!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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It has been sunny for a week. Tomorrow will be 80 here but then down to 70 for Saturday. The rock should be dry enough to climb so have fun! Just don't wait until Sunday because it is going to rain again.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 14, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
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First day of Stoney Season starts today.....
Hope to see a bunch of old faces.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Mar 14, 2017 - 04:43pm PT
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I'll be seeing you soon!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 14, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
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You be there tonight.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 14, 2017 - 04:55pm PT
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FRUMY.... a question? If its Tuesday, I will be there.
You?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Mar 14, 2017 - 11:39pm PT
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It was really nice seeing everyone tonight. I wish I had more time to talk to everyone.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mar 15, 2017 - 08:55am PT
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Season opener!! Good turnout last night, lots of people pulling hard, some good stuff got sent, nobody got hurt. Another perfect session except we learned of Royal Robbins passing which some of us spoke some words in respect of the man and his broad list of accomplishments.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 15, 2017 - 02:52pm PT
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Could not make it last night, but one day soon I'll get back out. hope to see some of you @ REI tonight
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Mar 23, 2017 - 10:24am PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 23, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
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Blue Wing.... me too.
Looking to plan up a memorial to Royal, when we do the spring hot dog roast in a few weeks.
Some of the kids do not know who he is- was.
I was showing that famous picture of him on the "phone booth" and they were all "thats rad."
I am sure we could dig up some more cool Royal/Stoney photos and tell some tall tails.
look for details
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Mo1991
Boulder climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 29, 2017 - 11:48am PT
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Hey folks!
I'll be in town to climb at Stoney Point for my first time tomorrow. I live in Berkeley now but I'm from LA and used to drive past Stoney Point all the time (before I started climbing), so I'm very excited to climb here. I've heard there's a Tuesday/Thursday regular crowd. What time do people usually arrive? Would love to meet some other climbers and have fun together! :)
Also: any idea what the crowd in general is like at different times throughout the day? Wondering if it's better for me to arrive late morning or later in the afternoon.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 29, 2017 - 12:13pm PT
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Mo1991 ...... welcome
people go at all times. The 9-5 workers show up as soon as they can get their.... For me its like 5:30, but by the time I arrive tons of people are already at the popular boulders.
Introduce yourself.
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Mo1991
Boulder climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 30, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
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Great, thanks guys - looking forward to it!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mar 30, 2017 - 10:36pm PT
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Mo1991 .... great to meet you tonight. I hope you had a great time....
If you left your chalk bag please let me know........ tonight on the Taco..
I will leave it just where you left it .... so you will find it Friday morning.
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Mo1991
Boulder climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 31, 2017 - 05:50pm PT
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It was so nice to meet you and everyone else as well! I had a blast! Thank you all for being so awesome and welcoming :)
I wasn't able to make it back this morning, but did realize I left my chalk bag behind. I'll miss that lil panda. Perhaps my fellow gal pal who was there last night can give it a good new home.
Hope to see you all again someday!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Mo..... I have it. Figured it was yours.
I will send it up to you, or if your passing through town you an stop by my work.... in Chatsworth
GuyKeesee AT G mail.com .......
have fun in Josh
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Moe Beta
Boulder climber
northridge, ca
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MAN! I went up to the summit blocks last week and wtf! Its downright disgusting and so sad to see Stoney looking so bad. A LOT more graffiti, trash, blankets, underwear (safe to assume there's poop involved) and newly broken glass. I hadn't been up there in a while so it was quite a shock. I will be bringing up a couple trash bags and gloves with me next time. I know this is nothing new to Stoney but gatdammm! Its getting bad again.
Anyone know whats the status on the people living by the front entrance? I've been seeing more underwear and poo in and around the front areas especially pile-ups. I have a suspicion that they may be the ones shitting around the boulders. Hopefully they have moved on..
I have also seen the new graffiti cover-ups in the back and on the way to the summit..not sure how i feel about it. A suggestion: use paint colors that closer resembles the rock face. Right now its looks like eggshell white. Thanks for the hard work GUY! I know its labor intensive and highly criticized but at least someone is trying.
BTW theres more "MO's"?! Highly unusual. I might have to shorten my name to just "M".
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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A suggestion: use paint colors that closer resembles the rock face. Right now its looks like eggshell white.
M.... yes-- please do pick up trash. The cover up painting is a work in progress.... I find that you just can't go after it with exact rock colored paint... mostly because no paint matches the color of the stone, because its well stone. To make it go away you need to block out the ART first.... we (my helpers and I ) jump on any new ART that we see and just blot it out-- mostly to send a msg to the taggers that "Its erased, you can't read about your fabulous conquest of that little girl...."
Then we start in and lightly blot over the painted stuff... with a color that looks the most like the stone... after that dries we hit it again with another color that is close and in the end we add little dabs of yellow or black to try to match the stone as best we can.
Its time consuming and so far we have made about 15 one day trips to just paint.
The work is not done.... My goal is to wipe off every large-- ugly-- mess I can find.
So please let me know when something new shows up.... I don't hike up to the top to often but I will go take a look.
Thank you for your post.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Alex.... are you getting sh*T like this???
this?
sad state of affairs
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 17, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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Raptor Closure at Hot Tuna.
A family of birds have taken up residence in a cave that is part of “Hot Tuna” please tread lightly. The four chicks are well along the way towards fledgling. Let’s give them a chance…. Please don’t mess with them.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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May 17, 2017 - 05:27pm PT
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Hey Guy, What kind of bird are they? Seems really vulnerable! Considering the amount of people that go by there, it's only a matter of time before
some a-hole kills them. That's even low enough for a cat to get them.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 19, 2017 - 11:01am PT
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I think they are Sparrows, maybe.
The bright one did have a white breast.
chicks look like they are doing fine.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jun 13, 2017 - 02:48pm PT
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I think they are Sparrows, maybe.
I can't tell from the pic, but I am going to guess that they are cliff swallows.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 21, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
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I don't think they were swallows.... there are lots of those zooming around, these look different, fatter .... anyway they are all gone now... flew the coop.
and last week these climbers were getting after the BIG STONE, well for Stoney the big WALL.
I think that any climber worth his salt has clipped up the Bolt Ladder at least once on the road to the Captain.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 21, 2017 - 09:08pm PT
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I think that any climber worth his salt has clipped up the Bolt Ladder at least once on the road to the Captain...
Not this one.
I think 140 is the road to The Captain...
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TasDevil
Social climber
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Jun 27, 2017 - 01:47pm PT
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Way back in 2010 BooDawg wrote:
I've been wondering about a couple of wino characters that frequented SP during the early sixties: One's name was Phil Mesch (sp?); I can't remember the other's. They were actually pretty good climbers on their favorite routes, and they always drank cheap Ripple wine and bragged about how much better their climbing got as an afternoon and their drunkeness progressed. Have there been any postings about them? They always added a lot of color and laughter to our "more serious" approach to climbing. VERY entertaining! Anyone have any pix of them?
I was just trying to remember those guys names, then with a little help from my friends Google and BooDawg - Phil Mesch (sp?) - yes! Larry was maybe the other guy. I think Phil is the one who tried to jump from one branch to another in one of those big oaks down where we used to park. Of course he missed and ended up in what I remember as nearly a full body cast - but he was back the next day on the Ripple! Sadly have no photos.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Wow .... it hit about 110 yesterday and a bunch of young guns were out sending in the heat! It did get sort of nice around sunset... but still it was brutal.
Parts of Stoney caught fire about noon... but quick work by 96 stopped the fire before it could do any real damage.
And TasDevil ..... Hi, nice to "meet you". I think the people you have been writing about, ripple drinkers, tree hoppers are still at Stoney..... Nothing changes.
Got any more photos of Stoney?
If so please post em up.... and if you get a chance come on out to SP and say hi.
Guy Keesee
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 10, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
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No its not. It's all hot and dry here folks. Climb on!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Wow .... right in the middle of a HOT Tuesday session... it started to rain hard.... for about 10 min.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Found..... one climbing shoe. It is very sad and misses it's mate.
If you know of a brokenhearted shoe please let me know so we can reconnect this couple.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Hey Boo,
I remember those Ripple drinkers very well. They used to slide down the Slant Rock head first while still holding the wine bottle. Also as I recall, one of them caught a lizard and stuck it in his mouth and stood there grinning with the tail sticking out.
Fond memories of 20 years of climbing at Stoney.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Sep 21, 2017 - 11:08am PT
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Heard reports of scattered rain around L.A. Can anyone confirm or deny the climbability of Stoney today? Thank you.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 21, 2017 - 11:17am PT
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We got a little drizzle up here in santa clarita this morning, barely enough to wet the pavement. If stoney was the same I think it would be good to go this evening.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 21, 2017 - 11:49am PT
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It is bone dry in Chatsworth.
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Sep 21, 2017 - 12:15pm PT
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Great News! thanks! Here's a pic of Spencer Josif on his problem "Ghetto Bird" spotted by Nick LeProhon.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 21, 2017 - 02:39pm PT
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Guyman,
Not worth my salt, don't recall no bolt ladder back in the 60s - woulda clipped it if it existed. Did it?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Sep 21, 2017 - 04:25pm PT
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I can confirm the bolt ladder on Jesus existed when I started there in 1984.
Also a hangerless ladder of 1/4 inch rusted bolts in the center of the wall left of "S" Crack going through the big pockets there. Never got around to climbing it even though I bought hangers for it. Started up on a hot day but backed off due to technical details. Never went back to it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 21, 2017 - 05:00pm PT
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Guyman,
Not worth my salt, don't recall no bolt ladder back in the 60s - woulda clipped it if it existed. Did it?
Don.... I started in February 1973 at Stoney. I climbed the bolt ladder with my friends soon after, at night, while pretty liquored up.
Upon reaching the summit, I discovered a young couple engaging in some pretty frantic love making, they didn't notice me for about 60 seconds.... then I said. "excuse me, can I clip the anchors?"
I remember my friends - Hank Lavene (sp?) and Fred Lytle (sp) nailed the Bosch Death Route in preparation for their successful 2nd ascent of Moses... heck they were still in high school. Anyway they used the bolts/belay station when they did that one.
So you bring up a serious topic..... maybe the record can be set straight.
When was the FA of the Stoney Point Bolt Ladder and by who??
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 22, 2017 - 12:24am PT
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I'll have to ask Hennek about the existence of the bolt ladder.
He may remember when we started to put in a bolt traverse off the top of the S crack (not what we called it back then - just the easiest route). Each bolt had a Dolt aluminum hanger into which we had stamped a sequential short story - hanger by hanger. For what reason after about three bolts, we quit. Wonder if they're still there.
Sorry, wrong Hank.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 22, 2017 - 08:35am PT
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Don .... good to know about Hank, more and more of the old climbers are moving to Bishop, I'll look him up.
So was that bolt traverse going from left to right?
Will need to go look for those Dolt Hangers with a story.... priceless.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 22, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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Guyman,
Horizontal, left to right - probably only 4 bolts
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 22, 2017 - 10:49am PT
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Will look....
swelly thanks
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MWomack
Trad climber
Sherman Oaks, CA
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Nov 28, 2017 - 04:46pm PT
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I believe it rained sunday night in Sherman oaks. Does anyone know if it rained in chatsworth too? I'm wanting to head out there later this week but only if it's dry. Thanks in advanced!
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Dec 28, 2017 - 06:14pm PT
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MWomack
Trad climber
Sherman Oaks, CA
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Found a chalkbag and a brush at Stoney point. It was sitting on the bench at Boulder 1 last night (1/4) after 9pm. Hit me up if it's yours. mjwomack7 at gmail dot com
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Korymoto
climber
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Jun 25, 2018 - 08:19pm PT
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I Forgot a backpack on the side of the road at Stoney this afternoon.
If anyone has any information about a missing backpack found today please call me at (805) 889-9115 it had my climbing shoes and chalk bag inside I can describe the condition as well as the items Themselves.
Thank you anyone who sees this - Kory
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 29, 2018 - 12:02pm PT
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Bummer.....
I had my pack stolen also...... 5 min out of sight on side of road gone!! Lost everything
I’ll ask around for you.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 17, 2018 - 02:08pm PT
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Anybody alive down there?
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 24, 2018 - 08:15am PT
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It was a good run while it lasted.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 24, 2018 - 09:00am PT
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Nobody boulders there any more. Parking is no longer a problem on Tuesday or Thursday. Martian Landing is getting crowded though. There were 6 people there one day last week!
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Hey ... was just checking out the thread the other day ... and it seemed unusually quiet.
So ... I thought I’d post some pics of my daughter at Smith Rock on a tower called Monkey Face ...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 10, 2018 - 01:02pm PT
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Sort of like other southwest cities of the past. The people have all gone & no one knows why. G_Gnome says the Martian's landed and took 6. But they said that about the Mayan also.
Smith always looks good.
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wallgumby
Big Wall climber
LA-LA, CA
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Sticker 3. Cute but bites
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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^wanted a portaledge but he gave me this damn backpack.
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Climbnrok
Trad climber
LA
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Nov 12, 2018 - 11:04am PT
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Fire pretty close to Stoney....
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 12, 2018 - 02:50pm PT
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It's going to be a good winter for hunting up new lines in the Santa Monica Mtns and Santa Suzanna's west of Simi. No brush!
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Nov 17, 2018 - 06:32pm PT
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It was a very good day today ...
So many great people
So good to see
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Nov 17, 2018 - 06:40pm PT
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Anyone know if this wall has a name..
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Nov 18, 2018 - 05:47pm PT
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Caught up with this guy this afternoon
He was passing along some beta on Crystal Ball
To the next generation
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Dec 16, 2018 - 09:56pm PT
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So I finally get an afternoon to drag myself out there and stick my wedding ring in a pocket with a hole in it. Probably fell out at Boulder 1, but I also hit Pile Ups and Turlock. Plain silver band. If you find it, I'll deliver a 12 pack of your choice. BTW, the wife was surprisingly cool about it, though it's got 17 yrs. of history, so it'd mean alot to get it back.
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 28, 2019 - 01:57pm PT
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Bluewing the photos you posted look like South Buttress Number 4. There are a couple of hard (5.11+) top ropes on that formation.
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