Discussion Topic |
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
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so talent is hereditary?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
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supreme!
Peace
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Mustang
climber
From the wild, not the ranch
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Aug 17, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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awesome route, looked like he fumbled and back clipped the slung knob tho., not that he'd pop there.
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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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Aug 17, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
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I like when he said that Bacher bolting on lead, by hand was futuristic for the time :)
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 17, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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You fu**ers, I feel so old and haven't even made it to the video!!!! I got high centered here when they start warming up:
"I meet my good friend Aaron Jones in Yosemite and we started by climbing the Regular Route on Half Dome and the Nose of El Cap in a day. We had climbed some easier routes early that week, but this was a big goal for both of us. We simuled 90% of Half Dome and short fixed the Nose; the end time was 19 hours."
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Aug 17, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
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I feel that many of these modern climbers have little idea of what climbing was every time I watch one of these videos. Bolting on lead was cutting edge? Sorry, we all got out there and wacked those bolts in by hand. If a lowly 5.11 R/X is too easy how about a video of Southern Belle for a change?
Or better yet Why don't you get out and make a test piece? Or better yet make your own Rich Romano/Steve Grossman/John Redhead routes to test the future generations on.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
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so Bachar/Yerian has become a kids play thing....
Lucky kid to have so little in the way of fear...
Cool post, love the video....
Brings me more respect for that climb.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
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Really well-produced video. Thanks for bringing it to our attention. It once again proves that principle we learn over and over and over again in climbing, we have nothing to fear but fear itself. And I am really grateful that Bachar gets plenty of acknowledgement by Kennedy. Love (along with some upthread) that stance bolting and stance/hook bolting is “futuristic”!! The production could easily have been a facile treatment, Hayden's ascent made to seem as if it trivialized the first ascensionists, minimizing what they went through 28 years ago. No, there was plenty of respect displayed here and if you watch really closely you can see Hayden really does notice the spreadout protection. Great!! Hurrah for the next bunch of young climbers!!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
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I’ll Pipe Up, Knob delight! Did the First two pitches in 91 with Dave Tyler. ( Lighting retreat ) the route is beautifully laid out. Old School Face. Pitty it was my only shot at it.
Bruce.
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10b4me
Gym climber
Happy Boulders
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Aug 17, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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thank you Tami
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 12:06am PT
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The kid just flashes it. Great talent and cool head.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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Beautiful....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 18, 2009 - 12:56am PT
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I feel that many of these modern climbers have little idea of what climbing was every time I watch one of these videos.
It's been twelve years since I last saw Hayden, and he wasn't talking much about climbing history then -- most six-year-olds don't -- but I've met his daddy a couple of times and my guess is that if there's one eighteen-year-old in the world that has a sense of the history of climbing, it'd be him.
rick d, whoever you are, maybe you know the kid really well, and can tell us that in fact he's a clueless poser who somehow tricked BD into making a video of him, but you know what? I doubt it.
David Harris
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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Like father like son. Hayden's dad, Michael, sunbathing upper left in photo on Latok in 1978. Skinny guys climb great!
George Lowe and yours truly, front and center. Donini photo.
It was wonderful to meet Hayden with his dad at a barbeque at my house last month. Hayden shows respect and deserves respect.
Fantastic video!
-Jello
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Mikemcee
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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Did Shagadelic on Sunday and checked out the B-Y on the way down. I just can't imagine how he stays so calm and makes it look so effortless.
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 11:14am PT
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Really well done video.
Gotta love how he cruises that testpiece. Wow.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 18, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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"I just can't imagine how he stays so calm and makes it look so effortless. "
It might have something to do with the fact that it's at least a full # grade, perhaps 2 below what he can onsight.
It's pretty pitiful to give him sh#t here - he's just 18 - and kicking butt, too. Also this season he linked El Cap and Half Dome in about 19 hours, and on-sighted Cookie Monster on gear. He's working his way up the ladder, doing his time. I think it's pretty cool.
My sense is that there is so much competition out there with these newer kids. Be interesting to see what comes of their activities over the next couple seasons, as they come of age like Caldwell.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Aug 18, 2009 - 11:34am PT
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What Tami said.
H.
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
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Best thing to start my morning with!
F*#k ya I tied a knob!
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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Too Good to be Off The Front Page™ ™ ™ ™ bump...
03:55: "Did you tie a knob?"
"Fuçk yeah, I tied a knob!" (laughter)
"Nice, dude"...
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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This is how I always pictured Kauk, Long and those guys as kids doing what they did. I remember first learning about The Free Nose and Astroman, and picturing guys that were in their 40's....like Harding looking dudes. Then I found out how young they were and I had a hard time wrapping my brain around it.
These new guys...Honnold, Kenedy, etc...are in the same zone it appears. I hope they live through it. Its inspiring and freaky at the same time.
I really believe these guys have no reference for fear. Its like the 13 year old who goes to the Olympics and shreds it, holding their teddy bear on the podium. My wife went to Olympic trials as a kid and had no fear. Four years later the immensity of it was nearly paralyzing.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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That was a terrific vid, thanks for posting.
The other BD vimeo vids are sweet too, the gritstone, Alex in Indian Creek, and that Ruth Gorge one. Really great stuff!
Re: Hayden, he seemed like a super psyched, super strong young guy, more power to him!
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Michael Kennedy
Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
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Aug 18, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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Thanks for the positive comments. Busy editing so I just caught this thread.
Ed B. - The talent is all Hayden's - he's worked hard and has incredible psyche.
Tami - He's heading back for additional coursework at U of Y in a couple of weeks.
Jingy and others - He's got a healthy sense of what's reasonable and what's not, for him. Still, I do worry about the big runouts sometimes.
Peter H. - He knows how "old-school" the B-Y is. I think it's just starting to dawn on him that "old-school" may be where the future lies.
David H. - Hayden started looking at old issues of Ascent and Climbing and reading stuff out of Games Climbers Play a few years after you met him. Seems like he remembers some of it!
Jeff - If I were still that skinny I'd be able to climb better than 5.9! Hayden was so thrilled to have the chance to hang out with you in Ogden. Magical.
JLP - He's 19 now, just graduated from high school. Didn't onsight Cookie Monster on gear, he did that a couple of years ago with the bolts (and hauled my sorry ass up it) so this year was a repeat. Not sure about the competitive part, he pushes hard but seems pretty genuine in encouraging others.
Yes, I'm biased but what the heck.
Here's where I get to really embarrass the poor kid.
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fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
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Aug 18, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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wow that really is embarrassing
well done
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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In the video Hayden says Wolfgang Güllich broke his leg after falling. I'm pretty sure that's KNOTT the case:
from "Sea of Domes", by Steve Schneider, Climbing #127, 1991
(as posted by Clint Cummins in the 213-post Bachar-Yerrian???? thread (among posts 61-80):
Germany's Wolfgang Gullich and Thierry Renault of France attempted the route in 1982 as well. Gullich fell on the big runout on pitch one but was saved from decking on the slab by a knob he had tied off [with 5mm cord - he went 30 feet]. Renault's go-for-it attitude on the second pitch resulted in successive falls of 30 [and 60] feet. The two retreated [as Gullich's knuckles and face had been bloodied holding the longer fall]. [corrections from John Bachar's post below]
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:23am PT
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I'm late to the party but, cool vid thanks for sharing.
Around minute 2.50 or so he is praising those that came before...
rickd sorry dude I think you must have missed that.
Michael-you should be bias, and proud.
Fun to sit back and watch these young'uns go for it.
Tami as usual you nailed it.
cheers,
DD
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 19, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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This is what we get for putting an Irish Catholic in the White House....
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 19, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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Thanks for posting this. Amazing! No doubt that's the closest I'll ever get to climbing the BY, so I appreciate it.
The other BD vimeo vids are sweet too, the gritstone, Alex in Indian Creek, and that Ruth Gorge one. Really great stuff!
Agreed. I'd seen that video of Alex Honnold at the Creek before, but it's still one of the most inspiring clips I've ever seen.
GO
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