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Gene
climber
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Aug 16, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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Could not agree more with t*r! The "tribal campfire" is a good metaphor for the Taco, although we do have our moments like any other collective. I hope that you, RR, feel comfortable here and share a story or two. Pull up a stump and chat a while.
gm
And thanks for your visit to Mr. Brereton's MoHi class. My daughter enjoyed your visit and comments on kayaking.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Aug 16, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
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wooohooo!
Royal, tell us a kayaking story!
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Gene
climber
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Aug 16, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
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RR had the good sense to hire Peter Hahn who sold me my first pair of blue suede climbing shoes out of the basement of a 10th Street paint store in Modesto. That was about, what, 6 or 7 years ago?
gm
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 16, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Hi Royal,
Welcome to SuperTopo. I hope that you find the climbing threads interesting and engaging. Lots of climbers that you know from the late 60s and 70s are active participants in this community.
Here are two of the best that ST has had to offer recently (apologies to the political junkies):
[url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=861139&msg=861139#msg861139"]Chuck Pratt thread started by Doug Robinson[/url]
[url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=268647&msg=268647#msg268647"]Frank Sacherer thread started by Ed Hartouni (a valley climber and physicist like Frank)[/url]
It was very cool when Tamara posted a few days ago.
Hi to Liz.
All the best, Roger
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 16, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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Welcome Royal!!
The rich mix of great folks, old and young at this campfire will be much enhanced by your visits here!
And congrats on the bio! I am eager to read it.
Peter
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 16, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
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Kevin said it right: nothing but respect for you, Royal. Look forward to your contributions here. Please don't be shy!
-Jello
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 16, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
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Welcome Royal!
I can't wait to hear some of your stories!!!!
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Aug 16, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
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Hi Royal, Bob Kamps gave a slide show in 1969 when I was in kinder garden(He was my teacher then), he spoke of you kindly. Welcome, Scott.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Aug 16, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
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WOW - Another of my icons appears on the Taco!
Very pleased to see your words and hear your thoughts around our virtual campfire.
Learn to ignore the prattle of cackling hens and avoid the political trolls for the sake of your sanity...but otherwise, there are a lot of good people with interesting tales to tell as we all relive our lives anew.
Rick
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Aug 16, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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Welcome Royal!
This place just gets richer and richer.
Lots of your influence around here.
Good thing you're a good storyteller,...we'll be waiting!
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Aug 16, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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When I started climbing, the first book I had to have was Basic RockCraft. I poured over the pages, trying to figure out how the words, illustrations and photos squared with what little I had already learned.
Never mind that I started climbing only in 2004, and we didn't use body belays/rappels, and we had cams instead of pitons! I wanted it straight from the master.
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jstan
climber
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Aug 16, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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I dunno,
Seems to me this place is all about making new lives.
To each their own,
Edit:
My comment was in response to a post that has since been nuked.
As Lily Tomin says:
Never mind.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 16, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
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When, Royal, you called me your "lifelong friend," in that
dust jacket about-the-author, for Spirit of the Age,
it meant all the world to me. I have always seen myself
in that role. We met when I was 17 and did many climbs
and first ascents, that amazing aid climb on Longs Peak.
We free climbed the Yellow Spur, did the first ascent of
Final Exam and Athlete's Feat, travelled together
to the desert, did those spires, finished in starlight,
and of course to have you as my first tour guide of Yosemite,
and to have come so close to being on that NA ascent, but
the thoughts I had about you on the freight trains that
lonesome trip home from California, and then all the times
we reunited in Eldorado year after year, that morning we
raced up T2... I wrote a poetic text for one of your
clothing catalogues, and we have engaged in postal chess
(you well remember that time you almost beat me once)...,
that Thanksgiving at the cabin at Pinecrest, and
and my love for you and Liz has never changed, even when
at times we have seemed to lose the way a bit,
lost touch, or let some "spirit" drift between
us. It was a joy to edit
your latest book, to bloody those pages and then have you
mainly keep most of your own wordings in the end. That was
fine, because in that "honest" way of which others have
spoken, you told me your writing was imperfect, and you were
too, and that was a kind of match. That touched me. I've
always been pretty rough around the edges. If I can offend
anyone I will somehow find a way, though I never really mean
to. It's just one of those raw imperfections I seem to have
brought with me to this life. Yet I cherish every memory
of my time with you, every word we shared, every edge of
rock both our shoes touched... Write twenty volumes, my
friend. It's a good way to relive those times, and to
remember. As I was in my youth, when I first read your
writings, I will remain a faithful reader and admirer. I
can recite many lines from memory, one in particular
that stayed with me for years as a young man... and comes
to me alas again...
"And what was the meaning of our adventure? None.
So we took it for what it was: a meaningful experience
that awakened our minds to a lust for life and a
keener awareness of beauty."
Patrick Oliver
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:03am PT
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Welcome to ST, Royal. Good to see another old codger show up here. In my mind, for the 1950s and 1960s, you will always be - as Pat describes you - The Spirit of the Age !!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:06am PT
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hey there say, royal robbins...
welcome and god bless...
i'm not a climber, my brother's the climber of the family, but i stepped in here, due to wanting a bit more of the feeling that comes from stories and trips, as to the greatoutdoors... and due to seeing my brother's name (mark chapman, ol' chappy to many) here... sure felt like home, then...
hope you get a chance to share some of your stories, as to this wonderful "majestic magic", that the good lord put in the greatoutdoors...
:)
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:06am PT
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Mr. Robbins,
Welcome aboard, and thanks for helping me lose my virginity.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:06am PT
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The Illiac, or the Oddity...
Welcome Royal Robbins!
Welcome Royal Robbins!
wooohooo!
You're rad!'
You're rad!
wooohooo!
wooohooo!
Royal,
tell us a story!
wooohooo!
Royal, tell us a story!
wooohooo!
!you spoke in one of my classes
you were so humble and modest
the way you described conflict between yourself and other climbers in yosemite was ultra-classy. bravo!
bravo bravo bravo bravo bravo
RR had the good sense to hire Peter Hahn
ultra-classy. bravo!
nothing but respect for you.
nothing but respect for you.
Look forward to your contributions here
Look forward to your contributions here
Welcome Royal! Welcome Royal
WOW - Another of my icons appears on the Taco!
WOW - Another of my icons appears on the Taco!
Very pleased to see your words and hear your thoughts around our virtual campfire.
Very pleased to see your words and hear your thoughts around our virtual campfire.
not to be redundant but...
Your crew took the bull by the horns
Your crew took the bull by the horns
Your crew took the bull by the horns
Learn to ignore the prattle
Learn to ignore the prattle
Learn to ignore the prattle
This place just gets richer and richer
in that
dust jacket about-the-author
Yellow Spur
your latest book
pretty rough around the edges
just one of those raw imperfections
So we took it for what it was: a meaningful experience
So we took it for what it was: a meaningful experience
keener awareness keener awareness keener awareness
that awakened our minds
Pull up a stump and chat a while.
It was a joy to edit
Welcome Royal!
nothing but respect
for you
Your crew
took the bull by the horns
The rich mix
of great folks, old and young
at this campfire will be much enhanced by your visits here!
It was very cool when Tamara posted a few days ago.
wooohooo wooohooo wooohooo
It was very cool when Tamara posted a few days ago.
Thank you for gracing us with your presence at our campfire
!you spoke in one of my classes
Your crew took the bull by the hornz.
Welcome Royal!
nothing but respect
for you.
edit
[wooohooo!)
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:09am PT
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Who is Royal Robbins?
Sport or Trad Climber?
Any routes I would be familiar with?
Juan
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:11am PT
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Welcome to ST RR, there's been maybe 6 or 7 icons already post a welcome above, the place just keeps getting better.
Regards:
Bill
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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Hi, Royal Robbins.
How's it goin'?
Glad you're still around. Thanks.
See ya!
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Barbarian
Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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When I was 12 and just getting started in this sport, I read everything could get my hands on. Royal was so inspiring. I was completely in awe. 38 years later, nothing has changed.
Welcome to the campfire!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:25am PT
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Hello Mr. Robbins, koo-koo-ca choo!
Welcome to the pool. Dive on in!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Aug 17, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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Sloppy choppin', though.
You must've been angry.
Neater is better. (You know this, I'm sure.)
Sorry to cap on ya, you know how it goes.
Otherwise, nothin' but respect.
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:23am PT
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We're not worthy!!!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:25am PT
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Well RR, To the online O.F's climbing forum.
Welcome, I think I still have one of your ropes.
Bruce.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Aug 17, 2009 - 01:59am PT
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this is GREAT, welcome Royal Robbins , lets hope for Liz on the ST also...
Maureen
Rock Ice Mountain
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 03:15am PT
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Welcome Royal!
Besides your numerous contributions at the forefront during the golden age of climbing in Yosemite, your writings were just as good if not better. "Tis-sa-ack" is one of my all-time favorite pieces of climbing literature. It does an incredible job of exposing the inner self of those at the leading edge of the sport attempting to do things never before accomplished.
Bruce
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 06:25am PT
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Even though I feel "welcome" in my heart, I'd like to take this opportunity to be the first to flame and bother Royal.
Royal, I sure there's something we don't agree about...dang you for that!
Oh yeah, You're looking a bit too young and bright for somebody that old..Stop it, you'll make us insecure.
I wouldn't want you to think the climbing world has become all sweetness and light since back in the day. We have it all on supertopo.
But now that I've given you a piece of my fading mind...I welcome you once again.
:-) .... (That's' internet' for "sorry the post above is geeky")
Peace
Karl
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Aug 17, 2009 - 08:52am PT
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So much of what many of us are as climbers, as people comes from direct or indirect influences.
Know that you contributed mightily to the few "good" habits of mine.
But, of course they are balanced with all the "bad" ones that you didn't have a thing to do with (Warren had something to do with those... wink wink).
Welcome to the zoo!
Cheers,
DD
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 17, 2009 - 09:43am PT
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Where?
I don't see him. Avatar??
Last time I spoke with Royal he and Liz walked by me at Snowbird and Liz wanted to know what I was reading. The title SOUNDED like a climbing book, but it wasn't.
The Fatal Impact by Moorehead is about Captain Cook's exploration of the south Pacific and its disastrous effects.
We spoke a bit about Royal's impact on climbing and I was surprised at the extent of his modesty. I recall mentioning that In Cold Blood was often overlooked, but that I considered it a seminal point in wall soloing.
Welcome aboard Royal; more twists and turns than a lot of western rivers.
Hang on!
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Aug 17, 2009 - 10:40am PT
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I've always thought Royal Robbins would have to be nuts to join
in on ST. I hope I'm proved wrong and that he will enjoy it
here.
Another articulate perspective is most welcome.
Thanks for joining in (did you join in?)
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Ray-J
Social climber
east L.A. vato...
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Aug 17, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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Dear Royal Robbins,
Basic and Advanced Rockcraft
Are true and under appreciated classics.
Just as viable now as when first published,
These books advocate simplicity, utility and goals...
Truely great books that have done tons for the sport.
Thanks!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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Hell Karl:
I insecure. I thinking he doe’s Don’t you? It’s great wall food, You can drink it hot and it goes’ pretty good with sardines.
Bruce.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
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Welcome Royal!
I met you once. It was about 1972 at Indian Rock in Berkeley. I was 11 years old, with white painter pants and maybe a rugby shirt. I was climbing pretty well for a little guy. At that time it was David Moss (sp?) who was the real hot shot. Occasionally Peter Haan would show up and blow us away, like Russell in The Gladiator, "the sword, it sticks in the frost....".
Not to digress. On this particular day I was there with my dad, Les Wilson, when you showed up with Galen Rowell to do some bouldering. Two heroes and one kid with a well thumbed "Basic Rockcraft" book and a dad he was proud of. My dad in an ancillary way had been your competitor, doing routes in the valley that were below your standard, but still had merit, climbs like "Chocktone Chimney" and "Salami Ledge". He even tells of one of his crew putting up early ropes on the NA wall.
So, he felt some pressure. He was at Indian Rock and there were a couple of certified bad asses in the house. He set out on a route just right of "Water Course" as I remember. Dad wasn't a boulderer. This route involved some crimping and tricky footwork. He was going to have his hands full and we all watched. Dad fell. He landed hard and his knees buckled absorbing the fall. He was quickly on his back in the Berkeley dirt, 220 pounds. It was harder and more violent than he expected.
I knew well his tendency in these situations. He would pass out, his eyes would roll back and he would calmly sleep. This had happened time and again skiing hard at Squaw Valley. One time he hit a tree, another he put a ski pole into his leg trying to keep up. Both times his eyes rolled back and I waited patiently for him to return. This was expected.
But this time it was Royal Robbins and Galen Rowell administering! As dad came around, I assured you and Galen there was no need for emergency services.
And that was the time I met Royal Robbins.
Dad still isn't a boulderer.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Aug 17, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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Welcome Royal, this is awesome!
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10b4me
Gym climber
Happy Boulders
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Aug 17, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
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It was my honor to meet you last september Royal.
you were giving the Saturday night show outside the lodge.
I introduced a couple of friends of mine to you. they are newish climbers, but were thrilled to meet you.
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Evel
Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
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Aug 18, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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Welcome to the taco Mr. Robbins! I am eagerly awaiting for a campfire tale..........
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 18, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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Dave, great story.
As I related to Royal once, I had seen him at Dodge Ridge skiing one year, and kept saying to my girlfriend, "hey I think that's Royal, but I'm not sure." So I kept looking to see if I could positively ID him. Well just too many looks, so that Royal started looking at me. Doh! now he just thinks I'm a weirdo if it is him. Better just eat my sammich/eyes down again.
Well, it was him, and we got a laugh out of it later over drinks last year when I got to really meet him in person. He and Liz rock for supporting the climbing community.
I'm really psyched to read the stories. Climbing is really about the stories, isn't it?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 18, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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Bump to the top for Davids great story!!! Thanks for sharing that!
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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Royal Sir, How did the rope tied around your waist feel after 9 days of soloing the Muir Wall? I feel like we're all so soft compared with your generation...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 19, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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Along with Layton Kor and Yvon Chouinard, Royal Robbins tops the list of my all-time climbing heroes. I met him once, at his shop in Modesto, where we bought one rope and he gave us another - a factory defect with a flat spot that he assured us was perfectly fine. We went off to do Mescalito the next day.
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Tamara Robbins
climber
CA
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Aug 19, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Hey all, I will let dad know about this new forum - I'm guessing he isn't aware of it yet. I'm greatly enjoying it all... much fun. I've been so touched by the many kind words and encouragement for Dad - thanks from the daughter!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 19, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Tamara,
This "Welcome Royal Robbins" discussion is called a "thread", the entire collection of threads and the ongoing site for them is called a "forum". And to add to a thread, you "post".
best to you, Peter Haan
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Tamara Robbins
climber
CA
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Aug 19, 2009 - 03:10pm PT
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Gotcha. Thanks Peter! And for the guidance you sent by message, as well.
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Swifter
Social climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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Hi Royal,
It's been...ummm..."several" years since I met you and Don and Jerry in Camp4, but I've been following your career with
greatest admiration. Looking forward to hearing more soon!
Bob Swift
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Tamara Robbins
climber
CA
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Thanks for the welcome... wanted to let this thread know that Dad has seen it, and thought he posted on it - but I think he mixed up which he was posting to with the "To be Brave" one. Anyhow, it hasn't gone unnoticed by him... :)
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Hey Royal,
welcome,
I met you a few times too, while living in Telluride in the '70s. even climbed with you once or twice as I recall.
Kayak stories would be welcome here too by the way.
Tell us how it was back in the day.
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Tamara Robbins
climber
CA
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Fattrad: curious what your affiliation is? Dad has mellowed as far as the import of politics in his life... but I'll leave any other input to him... :)
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Welcome Royal,
You have been a great positive influence to me for most of my life!
-wayne
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Tamara: FatTrad (Jeff) is/was a climber, and helps with things like the FaceLift and other community initiatives. He can tell you himself about his political and social views, which he likes to share (and IMHO exaggerate) here.
Your father may do well to avoid the "political" and "religious" threads, at least to begin with. They certainly feature many of the same characters as the climbing threads, but with the addition of some political or religious junkies, including even some non-climbers. Given the lack of accountability (not face to face, often not real names), most of these threads are non-productive.
The etiquette, insofar as there is any, seems to be that:
 Non-climbing threads should be clearly titled, so people know what they're about.
Climbing threads shouldn't be highjacked for other purposes, especially political/religious.
Political and religious threads often get rancorous.
Most of the non-climber political junkies get roundly abused when they stray into climbing threads.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Anders-as always well spoken and precise as we want to be. Nice summation on the evasive word of ST and the concept of etiquette.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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The 1969 solo of the Muir Wall, IMO, still the most ballsy big wall feat ever done.
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