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| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 12, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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You want love?......you REALLY want some lovin' in the form of pure granite bliss via The Classic South Face (5.8 )........???
YOU GOT IT!!!
Here's the short story:
Deb heading past Bullfrog Lake after descending from Kersarge Pass
After passing Charlotte Lake, this is the crossing of its outlet to the west
"Dats duh dome.......Dummy! (Deb having a hairdo malfunction)
Gorgeous flowers were encountered as we headed up to the "secret" campsite
And, no, we didn't have any issues finding it. Simply start up from the trailhead early, read the Supertopo approach directions (we came in from the east) and prepare to be thrilled by the site itself and the amazing spring!
OK, time to climb. Deb and I simul'd the first 5 pitches before pitching it out. Here's Deb on Pitch #6....The Slot Pitch, considered the crux of the route.
Deb making her way up higher on the Slot Pitch
Deb taking it in at the top of the Slot Pitch (Kings Canyon in the background)
Me cleaning up the belay before heading up Pitch #7
Deb enjoying the steep yet uber-fun Furrows Pitch (#10)
A view looking east, up the Charlotte Creek drainage, from Pitch 10. Pretty sure that's Mount Rixford in the background.
Deb nearing the top of the Furrows pitch with the sun in her eyes.
A moment near the top of the summit.
Deb poses just below the summit's west side with questionable clouds moving in.
As we headed out the next day, we spotted the moon hangin' over the top of Charlotte. Very cool!
Looking back at Charlotte Dome as we headed out for a drreaded slog to Kersarge Pass.....miles away :P Again, we never found ourselves lost in manzanita. Gotta keep a keen eye out for the good climbers trail
Deb slogging up the west side of Kersarge Pass. "Anyone have a cold Diet Pepsi I can mooch?"
There you have it........lovin' it up on Charlotte Dome!
NOW GET OUT THERE AND DO THIS CLASSIC DOME!!!!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 12, 2009 - 10:36pm PT
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Nice TR mooch!
I'm leaving right now to go do that thing!
Zander
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 12, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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Badass!!!!!!
That looks fun, dude!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 12, 2009 - 10:43pm PT
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Really cool TR...
I think I saw some questionable bouldering possibilities at that summit.. But fear that I'm not willing to spot.. or fall!!!
Cheers
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Aug 12, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
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Great TR & photos Mooch & Mrs. Mooch!!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 12, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
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OHHHH YEAHHHHH!
That hike in looks awsome, and the dome..........FAntasTIC!
Good job to both of you for spending your time together in such a great place.
Cheers,
Mucci
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Aug 12, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
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Fabuloso TR, Mooches. Good job.
Showin' Charlotte some Love, Fo' sho'.
That is one beautiful place, huh?
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kev
climber
CA
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Aug 12, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
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Now I know what you've been doing outside shuteye!
Nice TR - Great looking trip!
Thanks you two!
kev
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Finn
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Aug 12, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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SWEET!!! Can't wait to get out there and do that. Love the pictures.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:13am PT
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Great Pics, thanks for rekindling the memories, did you folks have any bear encounters? Both times I've been there the bears were the crux....
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Barcus
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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Thanks to the Mooch clan!
That Charlott is a hotie!
Marcus
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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Your photos are really great. Thanks!
Somehow saw new things, new perspective, in your shots, even after climbing that route many times.
You really captured the feeling of some of the best rock anywhere. Cool!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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That shot with Kings Canyon in the background (w/ Mrs Mooch) is stupifying, that's a lot of stone out there that is ultra-tasty!!!!!!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:32am PT
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Really great TR, mooch! Thanks for that.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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Sweet. That was the last climb I did last year. Too beautiful for words. Thanks for sharing.
BaD
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Aug 13, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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hey, nice one. Beautiful foxtail pines on either side of Kearsarge Pass, I don't know if you guys noticed - like taking all the best features of a Jeffrey and a Red Fir and wrapping them up in one tree. Such a fun few days out, seems a shame that some people turn it into a CTC obsession-fest....
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KitD
Trad climber
Vista, CA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 01:30am PT
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That dome has LONG been on the "list", and Mrs. Mooch makes it look like a lot of fun! Been all over that area backpacking, but never found a climbing partner willing to pack gear in. The time will come! Congratulations on a great climb!
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Aug 13, 2009 - 01:35am PT
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^ This person is a NERD.
dayum son, looks like yall had a blast. some pretty eeky looking puffies to boot! That pass.....arrggg looks steeep.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 13, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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That was a superb and inspiring show for this armchair climber!
I can always count on the Moochers to keep it real!
Always driven to taste of the classics as well as the obscurities... all in great style.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 13, 2009 - 03:08am PT
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Outstanding!
I always wondered just what the "east approach" looked like.
Thanks for sharing.
see ya at the Stone House.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:25am PT
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Beautiful pictures of a beautiful rock climb.
Thanks for sharing the love.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:57am PT
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Nice TR. How did ya like the run out pitch?
And ya sure Mrs. Mooch did not have a Pepsi hidden in that huge pack - what ya do make her carry everything?
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:57am PT
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mooch - it was great meeting you and the Drill Sargeant at the Dome! That was quite possibly the best climb I've ever done. The rock quality, exposure, positions, etc, were just amazing, and the hike, though long, is just spectacularly beautiful. Damn glad we got to spend time with you and the missus at that idyllic little campsite. Hope to post our pics soon as well. And thanks again for keepin' an eye out for us on our descent foray! ;-)
Les
for whoever asked - no bear activity whatsoever in the 3 days we were there.
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the pretender
Mountain climber
Quartz Hill, CA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 09:08am PT
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Nice TR Dave - made my morning. Thanks!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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No bear encounters or signs of ursa around the campsite. I forgot to mention that we met Les and Scotty on the way out to Charlotte. They were out from the east coast to climb a few beautes in the Sierra, including this one. Great guys! I'll let Les discuss their mini-epic ;)
Mrs. Mooch took on Pitch #9.....cool as a cucumber she was. We both agreed it wasn't runout like Mac put on his topo (5.7R.....40' runout). In fact, she was able to find pro every 25 feet (a few discontinous cracks, a knob tie off and an eyebrow slot). One just needs to keep an eye out for the opportunites. Recommend small cams (smallest Alien, a few #0 Metolius cams and slingin' abilities).
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
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Nice, Dave!!! I would like to get out for this one at some point.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:58pm PT
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Very nice!
Looks beautiful out there, thanks for posting up!
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troutboy
Trad climber
Newark, DE
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Aug 13, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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Really neat pics. Thanks.
TS
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Aug 13, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
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Nice report and pics, I gotta get there....
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Aug 13, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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mooch wrote: "I forgot to mention that we met Les and Scotty on the way out to Charlotte. They were out from the east coast to climb a few beautes in the Sierra, including this one. Great guys! I'll let Les discuss their mini-epic ;)"
haha! not much to report except that, unlike the mooch team, we didn't simul-climb the first 4 pitches, so we took considerably longer. On the descent, we got suckered to the right (I'd neglected to make a photocopy of the descent route from the Supertopo book, which CLEARLY outlines the descent route) by footprints and other signs of travel, and eventually came upon a rap sling. So rap we did. And then another rap sling. And then a another rap with a fixed rope, with many knots - isolating cut or frayed sections of rope - to pass, and ending with a rap biner on a bight at the end of the 400' or so of rope! One rap from that on our rope brought us to an island of nothing, which just wasn't anything I wanted to downclimb in the dark (my headlamp had gone dead!). So we built a rap anchor (1 nut w/biner, 1 red tricam girth-hitched to our leaver sling, and a quicklink), and made one more rap to safer downclimbing. Mooch and the Missus were very kind to have hiked up the descent trail a ways from our camp, to provide a directional beacon for us to follow! We were never in peril, and in fact, took the time to take in the incredible surroundings despite our inconvenient predicament -- Venus was rising the south, the full moon to the east, many, many stars were visible, and Charlito Dome was perfectly outlined against the ink-blue/black sky -- but their kindness was very much appreciated. We stumbled back to camp with them just after 10pm, to a nice blazing campfire. Thanks again, Dave & Deb, for the kindness! You guys rock.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 13, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Doo-hoo-ood.....
One sharp TR !!!
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Aug 13, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
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Nice job Dave and Deb, that route is on my list, just moved it up a few notches.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 13, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
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Really good TR Mooch! Loved the big quality pics!
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sbwyliedog
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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Mooch - Great pics! Somehow we lost the trail and did the manzanita bashing and our legs show it. hahhaha!
Les - We were out there on Saturday. We didn't use the high rap slings but when we ran across your anchor we ended up using it. Thanks! It was pretty much near dark at that point and it helped get us down quicker. I thought the South Face was a fantastic route and can see why it's a classic. The approach was a bit long for me, off the couch, but the climb made it totally worth it.
Good times!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Beautiful !!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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Great TR, Looks fun!!!! Especially the wild waves in the granite at the bottom, while looking down, crazy Man....
Thor
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Aug 13, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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sbwyliedog - glad to be of service! just as we were damn glad to have come across that fixed rope!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2009 - 09:30am PT
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sbwyliedog-
Think we saw you coming up there as we were headed out on Saturday. Glad you made it out there.
Les-
Nah, you guys would've done the same for sure! Don't forget our offer to you guys to allow us to play tour guide for a Shuteye outting next time you guys come out west.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 14, 2009 - 09:35am PT
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Sweeeet!!!
Love Charlotte Dome!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Aug 14, 2009 - 09:49am PT
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Whoa!
Props to the Missus and the Mister.
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Aug 14, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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Very Cool Dave! Nice photos and wow, gotta go check out that fifty classic one of these days...........
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Aug 15, 2009 - 01:36am PT
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Nice TR Davey....Howdy Sis , how are you??
Brother, can't wait to see ya man!
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Aug 15, 2009 - 01:53am PT
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NICE!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2009 - 01:56am PT
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Tiki!!
Miss you lots bro! Yep, can't wait to see you! We'll be taking advantage of the long Labor Day weekend for sure. Exile and Dark Helmet need some attention, eh? ;)
I'll be sure to mention you said hello to the Misses. Love ya bro!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Sep 30, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
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Great photos Mooch. Beautiful climb in a beautiful area. Thanks
Cracko
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Bargainhunter
Mountain climber
Central California
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Sep 30, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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Oh yes! This was my first High Sierra climb 22 years ago. Nice report. Brought back sweet memories. I remember enjoying the friction slab descent...
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Sep 30, 2009 - 05:16pm PT
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Thank you for such a great trip report, you guys just maid my day!
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Sep 30, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
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The flowers are Leopard/Tiger Lillys. Some of the most concentrated concentrations of those flowers are found along Bubbs/Charlotte creek drainage. Beautiful aren't they!
Good trip. I did it the day after Galen died (5.10c variation). We went light: two power bars and one bowl of oatmeal for the hike in, climb, and trip out. Can you say hunger pains.
Enjoyed the post...Thanks
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reddirt
climber
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Mar 13, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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bump!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Mar 13, 2010 - 07:03pm PT
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I did that route with a relative non-climber many, many moons ago. Loved it then and would love to get back on it again. The rock up there is stellar!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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Bump for a spectacular climbing post!!!!!! Thanks for the pointer from the T. Gordon beta request thread.
Man o man that looks nice.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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No worries. :) Post those photos when you get back from Dah Dome, Dodd....er, Todd.
Cheers, from another 20 year veteran retired Marine.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 25, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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Woah! Thanks Darwin for the bump.
That looks like fun. So much fun.
Cool tr
Cool photos
Yup, yup, yup,
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jul 25, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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thats such a spectacular route in an amazing place. Kearsarge is a brute.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Jul 25, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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dude, yes.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 25, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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This is well worth another bump.
John
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 25, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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Bump for awesomeness!
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| Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
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