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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 5, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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I lost my breath today when I could only get his voice mail but I hung on that such a thing would be impossible. John was always one to do the impossible though.
There are too many good stories to tell but for now a heavy heart can only post this photo.
Rest in peace Bro…
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Amen Mike! Wish I could say more but I'm ballin my eyes out and shaking like a leaf.
Peace
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Oh, No ,No , No,
Please tell us NO. Mike!
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Double D
climber
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You will be sadly missed. Thanks for all the good times, laughs and total inspiration. Godspeed to you...
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Werner-
Beautful and so appropriate. Peace to John, family and friends. This is shocking.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I remember driving all the way out to Fort Collins in the early 1970s to meet JB and go on a grand bouldering tour and try and pick off as many Gill problems as we could. Back then, nobody drove from Yosemite to Colorado to go bouldering - but we did.
John was so stoked that he´d wired all the stuff at Horsetooth Res. and could give me perfect beta. Then it was off to Pueblo where we actually met Gill and he gave us the most fantastic guided tour. Bachar could basically climb anything back then, and his free soloing was off the charts. He was the best, and anyone who saw him on the sharp end knew they were watching something rare, a real trad master.
Sh#t, I´m rambling, but it does some good to write what I can.
Like I said earlier, they better get the lead out upstairs because a legend is on his way, and he won´t be sitting around up there, neither.
JL
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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As I said in the other thread No way not John. So much to say and so little time to say it.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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This touches me and no words can do it justice. To a personal idol and a hero...RIP. Thoughts and prayers go out to his family.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Too sad for words....
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climbingholdreview
Boulder climber
london
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Never met him
Wish I'd had the pleasure
The man was a legend, a myth
Godspeed sir! Godspeed!
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DonC
climber
CA
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I'm numb... shaking...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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BITD
Stellar Dude to our family in the past......
And forward to the nowdays....Hashbro and John at the '08 Josh Reunion.
Dan Leichtfuss, John Bachar and Ed Sampson at KP'S home in JTree ...."talkin' about the good times."
Heartsick, too many losses.
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Johno
Big Wall climber
Cape Town / Japan
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What tragic news. I like many others thought that JB was invincible.
My deepest condolences to all his friends & family.
RIP John Bachar.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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This one of the most bizarre things I have ever heard
This F-ing sucks
Prayers out to friends and family
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the end of the world as we know it, & I feel fine.
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A Love Supreme... what a wonderful album... I'm breaking it out right now.... it's comforting to know he grokked the spirit of that Coltrane classic... what a spirit he was while here... and will be where he's going.
Eric
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NMClimber
climber
New Mexico
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My heart is heavy.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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I'm just stunned. John always seemed to have such mastery in his climbing that I could never imagine him going out this way.
A car accident, maybe...........but not soloing. Not John.
His impact on climbing was so massive I can't imagine anyone else filling his shoes. From his introduction of bringing sticky rubber shoes to the states, to his stance on ethics, his goofy clothing style (sometimes), his committement to soloing etc..
His legacy is huge and we have lost someone we'll never see or find again. It's so sad. REminds me that you have to take those moments with people when you can because they may never come around again.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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adios man
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I'm hurtin . . .
Ice climber
land of cheese and beer
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Oh man, I'm REALLY hurtin now . . .
Thanks for giving us all something to shoot for John. You inspired so many of us more than you could know.
Prayers and condolences to family and friends.
Rone
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Rest In Peace John.
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Chief
climber
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I'm shocked and saddened. John was a hero.
When Scott and I were getting ready in Camp 4 to climb Mescalito back in 77, John said, hey man, I'll come and play for you guys.
Late one afternoon high on the wall the sound of a sax came wafting up from the meadows. He was true to his word.
My condolences.
PB
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quietpartner
Trad climber
Moantannah
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I can't believe this!
I talked to him for the first time only yesterday, about shoes, and was struck by his trusting and generous nature toward a guy he'd never met.
God bless him forever. And all of his family.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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We're all a little speechless still.
Peace
Karl
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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John and I became friends in recent years and the guy taught me a lot without even trying.
My thoughts are with Tyrus now. I wish him all the best that life still has to offer and hope he is well cared for.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Good stuff, Werner.
I never met John, just sparred with him here online. Of course I never knew him, I got the DVD of his, but I feel for you guys who really knew him. It sucks losing a buddy!
It really does.
Sorry, john, rest in peace, dude. God bless ya!
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Pam here. Truly hard to believe. My heart goes out to his close friends and family. A huge loss.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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no f*#king way
that ain't right
oh crap. we just got back from Mammoth oblivious to events. This is so sad. I hope that it helps that we're all thinking positive thoughts for the friends and family of John. I really appreciated all the folks that posted up for Brutus. It's not really fair that we return the favor in this convoluted way, but we know what it's like.
John was the guy that lived his dreams and thru those dreams we were inspired to be better.
I didn't know him personally, but I first saw John in person in the Gorge in the late 80s or early 90s. He was soloing Expressway, getting warmed up. He loved the Gorge, you could see it.
Many years later I got to meet him in person outside the confines of the climbing community at a show that his brother was playing at. (Positive vibe to ya man!) He was livened up at this show. Until I saw pics of on the taco of him smiling, I didn't think he smiled. At this show he was just kicking it enjoying the music. Got to shake his hand and chat a little about climbing and a little about music, but it was a cool moment.
Even later I found out what a cool cat he was. When I was trying to find a replacement boot for cracks he gave the dialed in beta for sizing the JBs. I thought I had too big, so sent them back, got the sligthly smaller size. Turns out they I should have stayed with the larger size. John, you were right.
John, thank you for the iconic imagery, the dreams, the style, oh damn yes, the style!
I'm glad I was climbing on pocketed east side volcanic stone today. Like medicine that needed to be taken.
Much good mojo to friends and family
Munge
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Jim Pettigrew
Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
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I'm shocked, surprised, without words! Our freind JB and I spoke just recently about traveling to Italy to climb in the Dolomites! Exchanged stories of our expeirences eating Italian and wishing for another chance to indulge. Cherish the moments with those you love! Life is short. That was a great moment I spent with John on Wednesday! I'll struggle with this for some time as so we all will.
Jim
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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It can't be. I just saw him Friday night, 26 June.
Please let this be a joke.
Please.
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tokyo bill
Social climber
tokyo
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A legend and an inspiration even to those, like me, who never met him. Deepest condolences to his family and friends.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I just got off the phone with Dave Yerian. He is really busted up over this sad news. John meant so much to him as I'm sure he did to many of you out there. I didn't know John that well, but I surely had a grand respect for who he was. Dave said it well, It's not about the climbing accomplishments, it's about the community and John was big in both respects. Peace and Love to all of our community in these tough times.
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Grant Meisenholder
Trad climber
CA
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Whoa- When I saw this thread earlier today, I thought it was some sort of strange joke, so I didn't bother to read. In my heart I cannot believe it. Really? Truly then, a legend has passed. He was always one of the greats I dared not even dream of aspiring to match. I don't know of any other year that has seen so many of our finest get taken too soon. There must be some epic project in the great beyond that requires a perfect mix of humor, equanimity, and hardman which only these passings can provide.
My deepest condolences to all touched by JB.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I'm speechless and stunned. Everything else seems so trivial now. My thoughts and prayers are with his family, friends, and with all of us as we just begin to comprehend the magnitude of our loss.
John
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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A very sad day....
we've lost a great friend and the world has lost a superstar.
my breath is gone....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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This is a sad night....rest in peace, bro!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dave Tapes
Trad climber
Silverado CA
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The impossible has happened. I can't believe it.
John was a inspiration to many.
He never compromised his ethic.
Rest in Peace JB.
Dave W
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Unreal! So sad! RIP JB.... you were the Man! I'm stunned..... Best to Tyrus and all of Johns family. He was beyond an inspiration. He was "how it was supposed to be done".
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yo
climber
a tied-off Tomahawk™
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Take care, JB. You were awesome.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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John was my insperation and goal.
So Sad.
Shock.
God's Speed
Jeff
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triassic
climber
provo,ut
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John lived an extraordinary life, inspirational to say the least.
I had John come out and do his fantastic slideshow in Provo.
He was asked at the end of the show out of all his achievements what was his greatest?
With no hesitation he answered, "My son."
He always talked about his son at the tradeshow, when we ate together, and when we climbed together.
This is so sad. I miss John already.
Darren
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F'ueco
Boulder climber
San Jose, CA
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Even the greatest among us fall. May John rest in peace.
I only met him once, at the coffee shop in Mammoth, but his legend always loomed large for a climber coming of age in the 90s.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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God Dammit!!!! Bad times just keep coming and coming... Will miss you, John. :(
I'm stunned, shaken...
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Bubba Ho-Tep
climber
Evergreen, CO
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RIP John. You will be missed greatly.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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no words. he inspired my life. no words.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Neil Young land
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I can't believe this.
my sincere condolences to his family
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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I’m devastated. When John was in Boulder for his slide show a few weeks ago, I got down a bottle of whisky and we stayed up most of the night, talking about old times, but also making plans for an snowboarding trip to Alaska next year.
We’ll never get to that trip, but I am grateful for the recent rekindling of our friendship, and for memories of past, shared adventures.
Never miss a chance to be with your friends and family.
Peace to you, John.
Rick Accomazzo
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Disbelief and immeasurable sadness. You inspired more of us than you ever could have known. Safe journeys to all, this life and the next--
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Oh man...an icon. Tragic. The coming response from the climbing world will no doubt bear testimony to his greatness. Wish I could have met him. True condolences to his family and those who knew him well. The mountains will miss him.
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apogee
climber
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We have lost one of the purest examples of climbing and the arc of human potential...somehow, I feel far more mortal tonight.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Heavy news... John was one of the shining stars of my generation and an inspiration to us all. My condolences to his family and loved ones. Too soon...
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Just shocking - what a crappy year 2009 has been for climbers dying.
My heartfelt condolences to family and friends.
Erik
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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My condolences to his family and all of you who knew him ....
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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I've said about as much as I can on the first thread. John and I just drove from Denver to Durango last week. The whole time he was leaned forward in his back seat listening, talking, laughing. We discussed his son, his plans, ideas, old climbs... everything.
Yesterday we talked for more than an hour on the phone about what he wanted to do with his life... he had cool personal business plans (outside of Acopa) that made complete sense and we scratched our heads together trying to work through the details.
I have been at a loss since the first echo of this story left Mammoth.
John... thanks man. You were a friend.
As I prepare for my elderly parents to move on I am reminded of a line from J.M. Barrie... a line that never fails to bring tears to my eyes... "Death will be an awfully big adventure."
Simon
John and I waiting to start the show last Saturday in Durango, Colorado.
John and I with Ian, the manager at Pine Needle Mountaineering in Durango. He and John met up for an hour of bouldering before the show.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Well, I think I’ll just go to the crag tomorrow and boulder a bit.And think about how bad this sucks! Sad, So sad.
Bruce.
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jbar
Social climber
urasymptote
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What?! I saw the headline on the ST homepage but I thought it must be a mistake. Maybe John was posting something in memory of someone else or maybe someone made a mistake.
I truly thought of John Bachar as one of the greatest climbers. I respected his style and ethic. Heck, I even bought his shoes!
"fearless minds climb soonest unto crowns"
God Bless you and keep you in his arms John.
Jeremy
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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I'm so saddened by this... Speechless, heavy heart. I feel for Tyrus.
On top of the sadness that continues to build over the loss of friends, I feel incredibly stupid right now... John and I started talking a lot when I discovered he was a funk and Prince fan. Since I know Prince personally, I gave John some super cool video and music that you can't purchase. He was totally stoked to get live stuff from Miles and Prince jamming together. He introduced me to some cool music I'd never heard.
John and I had talked a lot, planned photo shoot, after photo shoot and something always came up and we never got together to shoot. First he was in his car accident, then I bailed on him to hang out with a chick for the weekend, then the weather killed it a few times, then.... We'd planned on shooting this fall tho, when temps cooled down on the East Side.
I wish I'd canceled other things, made it happen. I wish I had some photos to go with the memories I have of the times we hung out. I wish I'd have just shot some candids while we hung out. I wish I had those photos to go with some of the killer music John had given me. I wish.....
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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John Bachar has been a constant in my life ever since Jimmy Dunn told me about the guy who was "...the world's best free climber...", back in about 1974. Meeting John in Eldo a couple years later and sharing a rope with him on a FFA, I experienced first hand the power of a mind/body/soul/spirit working in harmonic convergence. He took delight in his gifts, and poked a pretty stout finger at the chests of pretenders, but it wasn't about putting anybody down, really. It was more about being absolutely honest with yourself and others, and leading by example; creating your own funk and rythm outside of fashion and external influence.
Bachar inhabits a place in my personal pantheon of quintessential climbers alongside Lynn Hill, my cousin George, Alex Lowe, Catherine Destivelle and a few others whose very existence in the world empowered me to pursue my own quixotic alpine quest. But in the case of climbers, even gods can fall...and we all know this.
My heart goes out to Tyrus and all John's close family and friends.
I am absolutely devastated.
-Jeff
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Chinchen
climber
Flagstaff?
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Oh man. This hurts. Another legend gone.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Can someone post the pic of On the Lamb? That blew me away.
Watching him float a solo of Leave it to Beaver BITD is something I'll never forget; such grace.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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John was my beloved friend.
He was the next generation, and its star. He
treated me respectfully and as a friend.
We had bouldered already for years and
done climbs, when in 1975 we climbed New Dimensions
together. In his presence I simply climbed better.
He honestly told me he had never seen anyone
climb that final crux pitch so easily. But then I
had a rope, and he had soloed it, which was a bit
beyond my imagination. It was likely because he was
there to inspire me that I came back that day just
a little from a fast fade out of the limelight. John
had that special love for the real masters, such as Gill.
Because of the level he achieved, he could know them
in a way others could not. I will never forget when
John tried to free solo Clever Lever in Eldorado in
about 1977 and fell off. He dropped and rolling a long
way. He managed to get down out of the canyon and
literally crawl to the cabin where I lived then. While
nursing his many wounds, as he lay on the couch groaning,
Royal Robbins walked through the door. I finished the
doctoring and left a very worn out John and went to climb
with Royal... I loved climbing with him in Tuolumne.
Whenever I went to Yosemite he quickly found me, and we
climbed. On one Tuolumne route, Gray Ghost, he simply
floated upward, with no protection. He clearly had
mastered those golden knobs. I remember the bouldering
John and I did in Yosemite, long after I had faded from
my prime... I remember the joy I had conspiring
with him, talking, recalling stories... when I worked
on my history of free climbing. More recently I can
say I was especially honored when both he and I were
given lifetime achievement awards at the same festival
in Utah, I the oldtimer who had a brief day in the sun,
and he the true master of our generation, how we shared
that little stage and we told our tales to our
climbing comrades... This is too difficult.
Pat Ament
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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So damned tragic. All my best to his family, biological and otherwise.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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another tribe member lost. One of our leaders...
so sad.
Rest in peace, John.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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I just don't know what to say.
My stomach turns and my heart is heavy.
Sincere condolences to the world for its loss, especially his family and loved ones.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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My thoughts are with all of you, his life long friends, and his family, at this very sorrowful time.
John's contribution to climbing was so very large. I just recently got to meet him at the slide show he did in Oakland. Jaybro and I climbed with him in the gym that afternoon. Then he gave a wonderful reminiscence of his life in climbing, Coltrane blowing in the background. He thanked the audience for being interested, and he really meant it.
Shock and disbelief.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Wow, I didn't expect to hear this today. What a bummer!
Yesterday was so much fun on his 4th of You Lie thread and now gone! A true icon in the climbing world! Rest in Peace, John!
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Redwreck
Social climber
Echo Parque, Los Angeles, CA
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My deepest condolences to all who knew and loved John.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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And of course John and I had all those chess games,
and he kept improving. And he liked it when I started
the Camp 4 wire walking, and I showed him a few
things on the sax. I had played in a jazz band,
and he was trying to teach himself. He had an
interest pretty much in everything. One day
in Yosemite Lodge I was playing chess and looked
up to see some strange person gazing through
a window from outside. The darkly dressed figure
studied us seriously. The person wore dark glasses,
and suddenly those dark glasses blinked on with red
lights, and blinked off. Of course it was John, up to
his old tricks again. Any kind of joke, followed
by that silly smile...
Pat Ament
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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He was the man, one of my heros for the last 35 years. Nobody ever claimed that 10 grand and no one ever will. The Height of the Art. Peace be with you John, and with your family in this time of loss.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Bachar was amazing. So smooth you couldn't tell if it was 5.6 or 5.12. His soloing feats were unprecedented and remarkable. His style beyond reproach. His influence in the world of free climbing unmatched. Watching him climb was truly poetry in motion. For those of us in the ranks of mortal climbers, he was an inspiration of the highest order. RIP Johnny Rock...
Dave Vaughan
Edit: I always loved that picture of JB on "On The Lamb"... such an iconic image of the master of the granite planet.
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froodish
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sad news indeed. Impossible to calculate the effect he had on climbing. My heartfelt condolences to family and friends.
-S
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Ever since I started climbing at age twelve, Bachar was one of those figures I guess I could call a childhood hero. Even as I grew up, the stories I heard and read about him left me in awe. No doubt, they still do and will for many years to come. Whenever someone who's had a profound impact leaves this world, I recall the words of Lao-tzu, "Empty mind of all thoughts. Let your heart be at peace. Watch the turmoil of beings, but contemplate their return. Each being returns to the common source. Returning to the source is serenity. Not realizing the source, one stumbles in confusion and sorrow. When one realizes... tolerance, detachment, dignity and kindheartedness arise. Practicing the way, you are ready for whatever life brings."
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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I read an article once in National Geographic about a rainforest culture that regularly climbed very high trees to gather bee's nests and other food items. I can't remember the name of the culture, but I did cut out a quote from one of their climbers that said "You fall when your life is over."
A friend of mine just sent me this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oIeK0YtclU of Bachar back in the day. Near the end of the clip he says "I'm going to climb for the rest of my life."
That's exactly what the Man did, and I'm sure he was at peace with it. I hope the rest of us are as lucky to make such a peace with ourselves in our lifetime.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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John has always been an inspiration to me, and a major factor in the style and ethics I choose to climb with today.
...and always will be.
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Conner
Social climber
on the road
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So very sad.... what a huge loss. My heartfelt condolences to John's family and friends.
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Paul_in_Van
Trad climber
Near Squampton
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RIP John.
My thoughts are with us all, particularly those many he touched personally.
Paul
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Climb High John
Peace
Karl
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apogee
climber
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"And when he is silent your heart ceases not to listen to his heart;
For without words, in friendship, all thoughts, all desires, all expectations are born and shared, with joy that is unacclaimed.
When you part from your friend, you grieve not;
For that which you love most in him may be clearer in his absence, as the mountain to the climber is clearer from the plain.
And let there be no purpose in friendship save the deepening of the spirit.
For what is it to die but to stand naked in the wind and to melt into the sun?
And what is to cease breathing, but to free the breath from its restless tides, that it may rise and expand and seek God unencumbered?
Only when you drink from the river of silence shall you indeed sing.
And when you have reached the mountain top, then you shall begin to climb.
And when the earth shall claim your limbs, then shall you truly dance."
-Kahlil Gibran
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Deýr fe, deyia frondr, deyr sialfr it sama;
enn orztírr deyr aldregi hveim er ser goðan getr.
Cattle die, kindred die, Every man is mortal:
But the good name never dies of one who has done well
From Hávamál, a collection of ancient Icelandic poems/folk wisdom.
John. Chess partner, decades ago, and fellow math geek. A friendship renewed over the last few years. Occasional and delightful pen pal. Wit, clear seer, and inspiration. Son, brother, and father. A climber and leader for the ages.
Perhaps I'll be able to say more tomorrow.
John had many friends, in different circles. Call them, soon. It's bad enough when a climbing friend dies; it's worse when you find out from the Monday morning news. Better that such news come directly from a friend, and important that people know. And it's a way of sharing grief.
Anders Ourom
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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It was February,1982, at midnight and I was humping loads for my first El Cap route.There was a mist in the meadow and a full moon shone through. Some fool was playing his sax in ElCap Meadow at midnight on a full moon, and I was lucky enough to have shared that. God Speed, John Bachar.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Karl, thanks for your pictures...so very much. Anders, trying.
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TB
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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I LOVED HIM....
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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(Not my photo - posted here a few years ago.)
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Absolutely stunning.
My heart goes out to those of you who knew him as friends and family. He was, and will always remain, legendary.
Ed
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there... oh my... this is a bad shock tonight...
dear john...
you are gone.. and i'm crying...
the proof of how well loved you are...
i have only known you from what folks had said...
never will i have a chance to enjoy you in person,
as all your beloved friends and family have...
thank you for a life well lived, that we have gotten to enjoy here...
these folks have honored your name and your life so very well...
that you were and still are, one very fine climber and man...
dear family... i'm sending my deep condolences here...
this is very sad and hard to believe....
all you folks are wonderful climbers to come and sit with here...
now one is greatly missed.. and even more so, out there in the great outdoors....
very sorry for you loss, dear friends and family of john bachar...
:(
may the good lord guide you all through this very awful and hard sad time... god bless and much love to you all...
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Dudeman
Trad climber
California/Idaho/Beyond
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Unreal! How very tragic. Mr. Bachar was such an inspirational person. His skill and vision unmatched. So sorry.
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Dimes
Social climber
Living in the past.
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Epps just called and passed on this disheartening event. We all have many memories of John but the one that I will always treasure/ remember is after a day of bouldering and an enligthened conversation with JB in Josh, he choose to give me a book that he had been reading-Fourteen Lessons in Yogi Philosophy. I walked to my bookcase, retreived it and opened it to one of the passages that John had made a note of-it is out of the third lesson entitled Spiritual Principles. Here are a few of the thoughts that he apparently pondered:
"As man's Spiritual Consciouness begins to unfold, he begins to have an abiding sense of the reality of the existence of the Supreme Power, and, growing along with it, he finds the sense of Human Brotherhood-of human relationship-gradually coming in to consciousness. He does not get these things from the Instinctive Mind, nor does his intellect make him feel them. Spiritual Mind does not run contrary to Intellect-it simply goes beyond Intellect. It passes down to the Intellect certain truths which it finds in its own regions of the mind, and Intellect reasons about them. But they do not originate with Intellect. Intellect is cold-Spiritual Consciousness is warm and alive with high feeling". JB was truly an elightened person and certainly showed many of us about the index of our own possibilities. Thanks John for sharing your vision with all of us.
KP
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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This is terribly sad news.
I am stunned.
My sincere condolences to Tyrus, family, and friends.
How can one heart feel so heavy in my chest?
To John,
Big Moon tonight here in Berkeley; shining all over just for you.
Wishing everyone strength,peace, and comfort.
Crying out loud now...
Jo Whitford
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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WOW :(
R.I.P. John
I am at a loss of words best wishes and thoughts for close friends, family and Tyrus.
WTF another tribal Icon gone sheesh
Respectfully
Tommy Thompson
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Jennie
Trad climber
Idaho Falls
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Grand were his triumphs;…supreme was his influence;…inconceivable was his death.
May John's noble memory be enshrined and remembered.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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John Bachar was a model for me because of his true commitment to the inner, most important part of climbing. The famous picture of him on New Dimensions, calmly hanging from a small fingerlock comes to mind. To me, that picture says he's there because he wants to be there. He knows it's dangerous, and maybe he's a little scared. But he's receiving something very important.
RIP
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Wow. I don't refresh ST for a few hours and look what I miss. This is really sudden and surprising. We were all reading posts of his this morning. He was always a hero of mine and I'm glad to have gotten to meet him a couple times. Much love to his family and the whole East Side crew.
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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my gut aches at this news, which i just now read. my small head has simply locked up.
~~~
i once had a chance to talk to John for 20 or 30 minutes, sitting on the tailgate of someone's pickup in the C4 parking lot in the early 80's as he waited to meet up with one of his pals.
it was me, lippy my goofie and excellent aussie pal, and this self absorbed swedish hero we had stupidly (and briefly) teamed up with just that morning. a guy who JB himself later named "The Pride Of Sweden" -- a line that proved the perfect punch line to the funniest climbing story i’ve ever actually witnessed and have since learned to almost tell. perhaps on another day, when i am not so sad, i will try to tell it.
i myself was speechless as we sat with him. and recognize that speechless is a very rare thing in my irish clan. but i was in the presence of BACHAR! and yet, remarkably, he was sitting there on that tailgate talking with lame muffs like the lot of us. for i had assumed it was inevitable that a guy who did the impossible stuff he did (and all the enormous work to prepare himself physically and mentally for it) would be, well, a machine. just a fookin' machine -- not just another soul finding his way like the rest of us.
but i quick realized, just then, just there, that i was entirely wrong. for he was generous with his time, he actually listened to our teenie bopper prattle. he offered advice on route choices and training that would help us with the stuff we were flailing on. in a few gentle words, he gave lippy and i insights that, in time, truly changed not only our climbing but our youthful understanding of the world. and both for the better. not that it made me or lippy a BACHAR, or even in the same galaxy. but it made us both more than we would have been. he told us our weaknesses and how to fix them. i still flail when i shouldn't, and remain largely unfixed. but at least he gave me the gift of better understanding why.
fwiw, "The Pride Of Sweden" he toyed with rather wickedly -- as he saw in an instant what cost me and lippy many days and much misery to realize. i wish John had just dhope slapped the both of us and said "run away from this twerp, you twerps." but that was not his way.
~~~
what struck me most was how funny he was. not goofy rubber mallet/three stooges funny -- but dry sly funny. the kind of humor that dawns on you 6 hours, or 6 days, later. he was also quick to laugh. and lippy and i were truly a goofy pair, especially just then. the more serious we tried to be, the more we were a circus. and this cracked him up. but his laughter was not demeaning. rather he seemed to share our joy, loopy as it was.
that and he later proved to be equally happy to be at the receiving end of our rubber mallet goofery. for a week or so after our "tailgate moment" (as above), while we were "overstacking" in C4 slot, a half of a fifth (a tenth?) of jose cuervo inspired me to do some goofy schtick by the light of a nearby campfire. perhaps i was trying to find a prom date. more likely it was simply the intersection of too much cuervo, my own weird neurochemistry, and two days of lippy and i flailing on sh!t we thought was in our range that just pulled my string all the way out.
so i'm staggering and slurring and doing drag queen schtick. then life with the sadistic nuns at reform school schtick (which much overlapped with the former). and them, bobo alone knows why (i don't), i somehow ended up doing my BACHAR impersionation. as with all impersonations designed for laughs, i just took a couple the easiest of the man's many traits and turned the volume on them up to 11 (think Spinal Tap). so i ended up with this kinda lame cross between doper surfer dude speak and something akin to SNL's later Hans and Frans gag (that and some of the drag queen and homicidal nun stuff still in my system). rather lame in all.
imagine my surprise (horror is a better word) when JB himself steps in out of the darkness and into the fire light -- laugning his ass off. when i saw him i was certain he would snap me in two and bury me shallow (and rightly so). but no. what he did was stand right beside me and out-schtick me at my own silly BACHAR schtick. i laughed so hard i hyperventilated and wet myself. or maybe he pissed on my pants after i blacked out. either way, a joyous memory (that which i can remember).
~~~
i hope those truly close to John can, and will, record the generosity he so often offered. and his remarkable ability to read in a moment who people really were. that and his wicked and dry sense of humor.
for the man was far more than all the mind bending solos and routes that all of us know and those who follow us will also marvel at. he was a man who cared enough to listen carefully, even to dhopes like me and lippy. and a man willing to mentor the clearly mediocre.
a remarkable soul.
in just a few encounters, probably less than an hour in all, he taught me not how to do what he did -- as i have neither the physical nor mental gifts to get within parsecs of that -- but he did teach me how to be a better me. and that i appreciate more than i can say.
~~~
my thoughts are with all those truly close to him. i have no special insights to offer. i myself am simply trying to focus not on so much on his passing from this world, but rather on all of the magic he did while in this world. i myself find some solace remembering JB doing his own schtick variant on my goofy schtick impersonation of him. i wish i could send that mental image to all of you who admired and loved the man. a true pants wetter, and the kind of thing that only a guy who had found his own peace and confidence could possibly do.
^,,^ (michael)
John called me dogboy. my mom calls me dogboy. you can call me whatever you want.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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What a terrible loss. My deepest condolences to his son and family and friends, and to all here on supertopo who are grieving him. I can hardly believe that I am writing this. I have enjoyed knowing him only by his posts here and through the amazing stories his friends have shared with me. The climbing world won't be the same.
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fareastclimber
climber
Hong Kong & Wales
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R.I.P. I am shocked and surprised.
Long live.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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John Bachar was as Todd Gordon put it on the phone tonight to me...."the best climber in the world for ten years."
Dan and I watched jb climb back in the day, talked with him and had fun with him .... he was like the Roger Federer of tennis today. John was awe inspiring and had an amazing impact on his sport. Yet as good as he was he was nice to our family and most he met. Attitude with real genuineness.
But if awesome climbing were John's only gig on this planet it would not have been enough for him. Read his posts. They contain so much more than fantastic climbing by a God gifted athlete that took these gifts to the max.
He deeply cared about the ethics of his sport. At the time of his death John was working on pulling important truths from these ethics and incorporating them into seminars that could be taken to the corporate world teaching them to work on the ethics of integrity and hard work coupled with vision.
Obviously John, like all of us, was not a saint. We all have faults. But the Dude was stellar. He cared....for People, the purity of the rock and his Tyrus. Peace forever John. Know our life paths crossed for a reason ....see ya in the heavenlies. lynne
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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For all of you who knew John, I am deeply sorry.
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tarek
climber
berkeley
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came in late and am stunned for what this means for and about climbing. To me-when I started climbing in 1985-Bachar more than any other climber represented the inherent power of climbing in all readings of the word, from his training to his ability to paint himself on a landscape where no human seemed to belong untethered.
Condolences to his family and to his ropemates and fellow travelers.
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jsavage
climber
Bishop, CA
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Oh man. The inpsiration he gave me will never die. Thank for that John, you are a gift.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Just got to my office to find this! What a sad thing to read. My thoughts will be with his family and friends today.
Prod.
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Craig Smith
climber
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Very sad. There is no doubt in my mind he had a major effect on UK climbing. A truly inspirational climber and an ikon.
RIP
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Wow. I've been trying to process this, but it ain't workin'.
I didn't know John for as long as a lot of folks, but I counted him among my friends. Now my heart aches, for him, for ya'll, & for me, too. I've got no words.
Kirk Bland
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IanA
climber
Durango, CO
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My stomach sank the second I hear the news. I just climbed with John on the 27th a true inspiration to all! I will always remember the great effect you have had on my life. You will be missed! Condolences to family and everyone he touched with his life.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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F!*k.
This is awful. I only knew John a little, but he was a great guy to hang out with. He will be sorely missed by his friends and family and the have my greatest condolences.
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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We'll be honoring John's life here today by throwing a thoughtfully chosen stone far out into the surf.
Long live the spirit of John Bachar.
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Ah shit!
RIP John.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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F'n sh1t, I cannot believe this.
I met JB in the Gunks around 1987. He was soloing Never Never Land [I mean, just playing on that thing] while one of his friends was trying to lead it. He would down solo to point out the huge 5.10 buckets, then climb up, over and back up.
I was leading a 5.8 to the right and playing that I was really desparate and trying to clip this sh1tty 1/4" bolt [Wonderland]. He saw this and started laughing a lot. I thought, "oh sh1t, did my stupid antics cause Bachar to fall??!!" Never in a million years.
And we talked to him afterwards. Remember, this was juat around the time where he was still blowing minds with his solos and pretty much world famous. And he was an unbelievably nice, approachable guy.
He was a hero.
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Mazzystr
Gym climber
Homeless...
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This is awful news. I hardly know what to say.
I have been in awe my whole climbing career, my whole 6yrs. The story of Rap Music, the Bachar-Yerian, the Half Dome day of free soloing in J-Tree, and on and on, story after story.
I am amazed by John's life story. I wished to be like that and not a boring mid-western kid of the auto industry. His life story reads like a massive tome, family, friends, accomplishments. He lived life to the fullest and was an inspiration to me to do better.
My sincerest condolences
/Chris C
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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John was the most graceful focused climber I have ever scene.
The climbing world has lost a great mentor.
Rest in Peace.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Just heard the news...
I"m totally shocked, speechless, and very sad. John was more than an inspiration to us he was the guiding light. Now what?
Deepest sympathy and condolences to family and friends....
This totally sucks.
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BillO
Boulder climber
Whittier, CA
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Although I can't claim John as a friend, he was and always will be a legendary and inspirational climber.
My condolences to all his Family and Friends.
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Dell
Trad climber
New Paltz, NY
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Oftentimes luminaries have no idea of the impact they have on those with whom they come in contact, however brief. Such was the case with John.
I vividly recall struggling with one of the Water Cracks on Lembert in the early 1980s when John happened by. He stuck around and called up words of encouragement--not beta, that wouldn't have been his m.o.--and I finally pushed through whatever issue I was having.
After my partner and I got back down the three of us talked a while, just chatting among the pines and the granite. Despite being only seven years older than I, John had this centered quality that was almost otherworldly, and yet he was so down to earth! That he would even spend part of a sunny afternoon with a couple of random teenagers...I was in high school and yet I felt like I was in heaven.
John, thank you for helping me become a rock climber.
cheers
Dell
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Ahh man. Sad news.
I was just talking about how amazing John is while with friends this weekend. Everyone had great stories of JB....
I remember being a teenager getting the Rock & ice in at the store and just pouring over the amazing tales of his accomplishments.
This guy will be missed.
Condolences to his family and loved ones.
Jay Renneberg
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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My heart is filled with sadness :( RIP John.
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CathC
Social climber
Wyoming
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Am so sad for John's son and family, my condolences to all his family and friends.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Devastated
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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I am at a loss for words. A great Man indeed!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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I am in total shock. My deepest sympathy goes out to John's family and friends and, really, all of us, for whom he has always been an entertaining inspiration. He was one of a kind, who brought aspects of poetry, music, olympic discipline, philosophy and even innovative enterprise to climbing. God's grace to all of us in our tears, and Rest In Peace, Shining Knight. I hope to see you again with Tobin. We will never forget you.
Bruce Adams
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Man...that ain't right.
We stand on the shoulders of giants. And he was one.
My sincere condolences to all his family and friends.
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Marcopikeur
Sport climber
France
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I've be in touch with John two days ago. We met in Verdon long time ago and was planning to do ITW with him for Escalade mag (french web climbing magazin).
I will do it any way because i personnly think that john was kind of "alpha climber" in USA and also in Europe.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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John was one of the "greats" in the history of American climbing, but he should also be remembered for his incisive intelligence and his musical talent. He also served as an inspiration and a mentor for many younger climbers- he will be missed.
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out of retirement
Social climber
CO
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remember John with his sax and crankin the rad problems.
Godspeed
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Remuus
Trad climber
Cali then; Tetons now
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RIP JB. There will NEVER be another like him. I'm in disbelief and heavily bummed out.
Chris Hash
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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So many memories of JB. First met him in the early 70's in camp 4. Dang, beyond belief.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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I can't find words.
I feel nothing today.
-w
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Alpinist63
Mountain climber
neverfarawayfromtherocks
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sad news...
my condolences to the family and friends.
i didn't knew john personnaly but still, he was somehow part of my ''climbingworld''and i think john was one of the most influential climbers ever, and everybody who climbed during the 80s (and later) was motivated and inspired by what john did. he set an example of good style in climbing despite rapbolters and powerdrills.
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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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He was always my favorite, this really bums me out. RIP John
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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I too am just in shock; he was *the man* when I started climbing in 1980. We met him while in the Gorge a couple of years ago, while he was soloing the routes I'd just been falling on. He was so smooth and deliberate, and so obviously loved what he was doing.
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Trittiko
Trad climber
milan
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Hi,
my name is Stefano and I write from Italy. We have lost a great climber. Again I think that it's impossible!!
:(
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Pretty shocked, still. There didn't seem like there was much that Bachar couldn't do seamlessly. I went for a walk last night, listening to 'A Love Supreme' on my headset. It didn't help. Maybe sharing a story or two will.
When I was a young been-nowhere, done-nothing grommet I ran into John in Real Hidden Valley. He was wearing some god-awful lycra tights and carrying a gigantic boom box. He was playing "Straight Outta Compton" just a few weeks after it'd come out. Did I mention the box? It was enormous! On many levels, I was blown away. Years passed and I'd run across John here and there, mainly on the East Side. Last summer I took him a copy of Parlaiment's 'Motor Booty Affair', the album he framed and displayed with pride. The sleeve became an image he'd post from time to time. I like to think that he always had good tunes in his head and dolphins under his feet.
Just last summer I had the pleasure of doing the Dike Route on Pywiak as John played sax below. It was the best way to end a wonderful season in the mountains. Clear skies above and soulful melodies floating all around.
More recently he helped out with the Yosemite Climber project. I just wish he'd been able to find out how his contribution moved the whole thing forward.
http://yosemiteclimber.blogspot.com/
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Very shocking. Feels like the end of an era. Best wishes to the son left behind.
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Eric Meade
climber
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I remember meeting Bachar the day after he did the Nose and Half Dome in a day, the first time in the mid-eighties. I was in the Camp 4 parking lot sorting gear for a big wall. He didn't know who I was, but Bachar was animated and psyched to share his story with someone. I did not realize how notable that feat was for some years. In fact, I don't think many people relaize what a true bad ass he was for the world of climbing. I am truly saddened to hear he is gone.
Eric
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Ragz
climber
Tartarus, black hole of the internet
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Saddened deeply, JB was one of my climbing heroes. Never got the chance to know him except through a couple emails about shoes.
Still, there is a sense of the loss. Guys like him inspired me to climb, inspired me to keep climbing after I got hurt, and inspired me to keep a higher standard.I was headed to Dike wall later this week, not sure I want to go there now.
JB you will be missed.
Love and peace to his family.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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He was John Bachar, a freckled kid who's face gleamed joy.
Then he became John Bachar.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Yesterday evening my wife wasn't feeling very well. She wished to listen to some music. I got the laptop out and put in a CD. It was a collection of songs by her favorite band the Rolling Stones. As the songs played I strummed along with my guitar as I often do. I hadn't listened to this particular CD before and had no idea what song would come up next. The familiar melody of Paint it Black started up. Wow, I thought I haven't heard this tune in years. I was messing around trying to figure out the chords while reflecting on the lyrics..."No more will my green sea go turn a deeper blue I could not foresee this thing happening to you." "Like a new born baby it just happens every day." What's it like to lose a loved one I thought? How did the Stones deal with the loss of their band mate Brian Jones? As the song played my cell phone rang. Who could be calling? Should I answer our let it go to voice mail? I picked up. It was Joe Hedge. He had some bad news and I better sit down. With I want to see you paint it, paint it black, black as night black as coal playing in the background Joe informed of John's death. It sent chills down my spine. We all lost a bandmate here. One of our band of brothers of our climbing community. While John and I will always be connected by a punch thrown in the Camp 4 parking lot some twenty odd years ago there were a lot of other far more positive memories. Hanging out and climbing with him while he wintered in Joshua tree. Going to see Phil Woods play (an early sax inspiration). Hanging on a rope taking photos of him as he soloed the Nabisco Wall. Along with Ron Kauk he was the best climber of my generation. His soloing defined him as a climber and a person. He had such a mastery of unroped climbing its hard to fathom that he would ever fall. It was other wordly and was in part what made him a rock God to so many. I guess he was human after all. Perhaps this is the best compliment we can give him. A unique and special human being that will be missed by many. Rest in peace John.
Chappy
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ATS
Social climber
escondido, ca
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Wow. As one of the administrators for the JTree page on Mountain Project, I was giddy at 42 to receive an email from John about a bit of the content. In my mind's eye, he has been so revered over the last two decades, that I couldn't believe it.
Here is another link of John climbing, this time in Joshua Tree. Love the little show off hang on the Beaver.
My respect and admiration,
Adam
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03udLvtNR6Y&feature=related
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Katie_I
Mountain climber
Wyoming
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John Bachar's climbing accomplishments were superhuman--that goes without saying. I knew him more as a writer, and he was one of the greatest thinkers I ever had the honor to work with--a sharp intellect, a wonderful sense of integrity, responsibility and humor, and a surprising humility.
I wish there was something I could say--but I always used to call him when I was at loss for words. I'll miss him,
Katie
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Echo
Trad climber
San Diego, CA.
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Unbelievably sad to hear this news. He was one of the greats and will truly be missed. RIP John...
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SooperCooper
Trad climber
SoCal
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Rest in Peace Sir. You will always be one of my heroes.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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the man didn't need wings.
on the edge of exchanging mediums,
i believe john would utter a sincere thanks to gravity.
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nb3000
Social climber
the hairy edge
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a real badass and true inspiration to so so many
rest in peace
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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Though I never met him, John Bachar made me proud to call myself a rockclimber. I remember seeing him in the Valley and feeling like I was seeing God.
Derek Hersey was a very close friend, and this comes as a greater shock than when Derek fell.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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John,
I'm going to miss you, my friend. Ever since I met you at Horsetooth in the '70s I've been a disciple of your honesty and integrity. As I got to know you over the years I learned that the bluster and pride that I bruised myself on at Horsetooth was really me seeing, for the first time, someone who encouraged and, yes, demanded honesty and integrity from all those around him. I'm a better person because of you; thank you for that. John, You had climbed so hard and climbed so high for so may years that I'd come to assume that you are immune to gravity. Sadly, today I learned that you aren't.
Bon voyage,
Malcolm
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tonym
climber
Oklahoma
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A great loss to the climbing world, sad day for all of us.
Heartfelt thoughts and prayers to John and the Bachar family.
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Double D
climber
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Today I sit saddened at the loss of an old friend, John Bachar, who attained legendry status through his super-human climbing abilities. He possessed some God-given gifts that very few have ever been blessed with and fewer yet ever exercised. John could make anything look easy and never had I encountered anyone with such smooth footwork. It was indeed magical to climb and boulder with John back in the day.
Although we had little contact over the past 30 years our recent exchanges over the phone and emails brought the reassurance that John was the same old mate. He was articulate, intelligent and most of all humorous. Whether it was sitting around listing to Coltrane, sitting around the campfire exchanging stories or hiking up to the base of Tangerine Trip to play music while the rain undulated like a curtain past the reach of the overhangs above, he always approached life with an uncommon zeal. Like Coltrane, I think John had a special connection with his Maker.
Yet in spite of all his accomplishments and fame he would be the first to admit that he was merely a man. And like the Bible says, “it is appointed once for all men to die but after this the judgment.” Salvation is between a man and his Maker. It’s my sincerest desire that John sits before a living God through eternity.
My deepest condolences go out to all of John’s friends and family, especially his son Tyrus.
Godspeed John. We’ll miss you bro.
Dave Diegelman
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russ clune
climber
new paltz, ny
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Whoa! I just heard about JB's death. Just can't believe it--what a bummer and loss for us all. We'll miss you, John.
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Robinson
Trad climber
Chattanooga
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Here's a shot of John cooking dinner for us at my house in November of 2008.
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Robinson
Trad climber
Chattanooga
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John leading a new route right of "The Midas Touch" at Bee Rocks, Chattanooga Tennessee. November, 2008
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Robinson
Trad climber
Chattanooga
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John getting ready to do his slide show in Nashville, TN. November, 2008
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Robinson
Trad climber
Chattanooga
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John leading "A Good Place To Come" at the Tennessee Wall, Chattanooga, Tennessee. November, 2008
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Vern Clevenger
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Thanks Mike for the wonderful photo which brings back all those memories of good times so long ago.
I saw the ambulance racing through Mammoth yesterday. I didn't think much of it. Now I'm in tears and shock ... I too called John, hoping against hope that he would answer. I had become close to John these last few years as a father, and as old friends dealing with severe medical conditions. Don't know what to say today. Please John, send your son all the energy and fatherly love that you can and keep it up until he is grown into a man himself.
Rest In Peace
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Robinson
Trad climber
Chattanooga
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John leading "The Parsifal Mosaic," Bee Rocks, Chattanooga, TN November, 2008
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dbs
climber
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When I got up this am and checked my mail, I got what I thought was a bad joke from a friend. When I recieved multiple bad jokes, I realized that it was a bad dream and wanted so much to wake up.
So many super times that I cannot even count. I am happy though that my memories are clear and these will stay with me forever.
Through my life I have dealt with a lot of death and tragedy and I thought I was pretty bullit proof to these circumstances, but this has knocked me off feet. My heart aches and I feel empty.
Yano was a great man and will be remembered by thousands.
Best,
Dale
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Knave
climber
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This is very, very sad indeed. I had always idolized John and his contemporaries. Starting 33 years ago a few years behind the "Stone Masters" My friends and I would listen to the tales and climb some of the more saner routes these guys were putting up, always thinking; " Bachar is soloing this stuff when I'm gripped out of my skull with a new rope". Bachar seemed to be the embodiment of physical hone and calm focus. A Pedestal was arranged in my mind for him and his ilk. I figured that if I ever met him he would be aloof and unapproachable. Years later when I did meet him he was very genuine and self-effacing, helpful to a fault when dialing me in with several pairs of shoes. I came away thinking what a cool man that was on each occasion. If he was ever unapproachable he sure has changed. Reading the other posts It seems his son gave him a gift of temperance I know my son has given me a similar gift. While I didn't know him well I feel a great sadness in his passing and a greater sadness for his family and friends who now must bear an excruciating amount of pain and sorrow. This is a cruel planet to be incarnated on at times to be sure. Thanks for years of inspiration to several generations.
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Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Very, very, sad news. My heart goes out to his family, loved ones and friends.
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Robinson
Trad climber
Chattanooga
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John leading "Open Boat Whalers" at the Tennessee Wall, Chattanooga, TN November, 2008
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Bruce Adams wrote:
He was John Bachar, a freckled kid who's face gleamed joy.
Then he became John Bachar.
I was pretty much numbed out till I read this, which perfectly captured John, especially to those of us who knew him when he first got started. His boyish enthusiasm could light a crag on fire. His early solos (Butterballs, New Dimensions, all the stuff out at Josh, et al) had an effect on the climbing world which can never be replicated.
Man, did that guy love to climb.
JL
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Carboni
Trad climber
Cape Town
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The South African climbing community is stunned by the tragic loss of such a great and influential climber. We will all miss the presence of John on this planet and all the staff at SA Mountain Sport Magazine send their deep felt condolences to his family and everybody whose life was touched by John.
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L
climber
A deep dive in the shallows of life..
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My friend Dingus just told me about this...I don't know what to say right now, except that John was a really great guy whom I liked and admired a lot. He will be missed...so much...by so many.
Namaste to you, John...thank you for all you gave us...
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Unbelievable sad to hear this…my heart goes out to all of John’s dear friends and family, it's like hearing superman has died, he set the style we all should reach for.
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Conrad
climber
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With deepest condolences to family, friends and the climbing community around the world.
John was a visionary climber ~ we will all miss him.
To his spirit. May it inspire generations to come.
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Cosmin
Big Wall climber
Europe/China
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R.I.P.
C
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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We all know he was great.
It is a pity more of us didn't know him as
the great person and friend he obviously was.
My heartfelt condolences to all of you.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Never met John, but, like most, I admired him. Always hoped I'd run into him someday. Like a lot of people said above, this is the last thing you'd expect to hear...
Condolences to family/friends.
-Matt
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Tough shoes to fill
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kiki
climber
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My Condolences to John's Family and Friends
Thanks for dinner my friend, we had some great times.
Kathy Laskey
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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I never met John since my Valley days were over before he arrived. Of course I read about him in books and only yesterday was inspired to respond to a couple of threads of his on this site. Today I read the sad news.
A loss to so many people on so many levels, but especially to his family and young son. His memory will always live on.
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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RIP John Bachar. You will be missed by all.
My condolences to the Bachar family and best friends.
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Abissi
Trad climber
MI
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The past two years John became my friend. Last year at the Trade show we sat and drank something as we were both recovering from the same type of injury.
He will be deeply missed by me
The biggest walls are up there my friend, climb to your hearts content.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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This is so sad. I can’t accept this right now.
I remember the teen, John. The one who would ride his motorbike, 50 miles one- way to Stony Point, every day after school because he had to climb.
…… John was always way strong, one time his motorbike’s battery needed a charge. I went to my garage to get the charger and brought it to the side yard where the bike was parked. I had to go back and get an extension cord. Before I went to get it I told John, “remove the seat so we can get to the battery”. When I got back the seat was off the bike. When the battery was fully re-charged, John went to replace the seat, he picked it up and set it down on to the bike and pushed down hard. I asked him what he was doing and he said “the seat just pulled straight up and off before, I don’t know what’s wrong now” as he tried to realign it. I grabbed it from him and looked at the underside of the seat, I looked at the bike….. yes it did have a nice RELEASE LEVER, that was still not released. It took me a second to figure out what had happened but it was hard to believe. John didn’t know about the lever ( all bikes have them, it’s so you can get to the battery and stuff under the seat) so he figured the seat just pulled off….. He pulled and pulled and then he CRANKED on that seat….. with both hands! He got the four 10 mm bolts holding the seat to the bike to rip right through the sheet metal!!!!!! I welded the whole mess back together and he was on his way, but I still don’t know how he did that…. poor bolts didn’t stand a chance.
…… I remember when we helped him “move to Hidden Valley Campground” from his folks house (Dad if I recall). I was sitting there talking with John and I asked him this question. “John what are you going to DO out here?” Without hesitation he said this: “I am going to become the best rock climber who ever lived” …….
Hats off to you John, you went out and lived your dream…. with both hands.
Rest in Peace.
Guy Keesee
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Really horrible news to get after a weekend of climbing. Like getting punched in the gut. It always seemed like there are all of us other climbers, and then there was John Bachar.
Thank you for inspiring all of us for so many years.
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Gunkswest
climber
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Many years ago I got to witness Coz lead his new route, Father Figure (12d/13a), at JT. Coz is certainly no slouch when it comes to climbing and watching him dyno from crimper to crimper up the overhanging wall was one of the most impressive things I had ever seen. I later went back with JB and watched him climb the route. Not only did he solo it, he grabbed every hold statically like he was on a 5.7. John certainly did harder, bolder and more noteworthy climbs, but this was by far the most impressive climbing feat I've ever seen.
Thanks for being an inspiration John.
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cranky
Big Wall climber
Oceanside, CA
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I met him after he soloed above me in Owen's River Gorge. It kinda freaked me out to see someone above since it was a single pitch. My husband had followed his accomplishments for years. It was so great that we could meet the legend. Neither of us will forget that day.
Our best to his friends and family.
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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I don't have much to say. I'm stunned.
Growing up, there were climbers I wanted to climb as good as, but Bachar... he was on another planet. Too good to even aspire to... you just observed with mouth wide open.
He and I traded emails a week or two ago. He gave enthusiastic compliments about my photographs and agreed to be a part of my climber portrait series. From the few words I traded with him it seems his heart was as big as his talent. I was excited to finally meet the man next month...
RIP
-Jim
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Carboni
Trad climber
Cape Town
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We want to pay tribute to John in the next issue of SA Mountain Sport. If anyone one has a few hi-res pics of John climbing or just hanging out, we would greatly appreciate some to go with the tribute. Let me know.
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Trad climber
Up the 'Creek w/out a Prada
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John seemed to have found his heaven on earth when he climbed. I hope whatever he finds on the other side is even better.
My deepest condolences and respects to his family and friends left behind.
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charley
Trad climber
nw pa.
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OMG I can't believe this. There has been way to much of this. I never knew John. He will be so missed by the climbing community. Condolences and prayers for his family and friends.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Maybe it's just me - but I swear I keep hearing the faint tones of a saxophone in the wind today.
Funk has come to the high country - angels be dancing!
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floppy
climber
portland, oregon
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Heard the news this morning while playing a round of disc golf.
RIP
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BluntMan
Gym climber
Wild Omar, CA
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Met John 1 time. I'd been climbing a few years. I came in for a shower at Desert Rocks after a great day on the rocks and I saw a guy sitting down at a table with a slide projector. I asked him what was happening. He looked up at me and said he was going to give a slideshow. I asked him what his name was. He smiled at me and said, " John....John Bachar". I was new to the game and didn't know anyone by sight. But I knew his name and I knew I was was lucky to meet a legend. RIP.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Clarence Cashner (Cash), Bachar and Jobee.
Yerian and Bachar.
Photo: Grant Hiskes/Blitzo Collection.
Bachar.
Photo: Grant Hiskes/Blitzo Colleection.
Bachar on the speed bag.
Bachar's throwing star target.
Photos by Blitzo unless stated otherwise.
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Kindredlion
Big Wall climber
4hrs too far from YNP
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One Love!
One heart!
Lets get together and Feel Alright!!
Thanks John for bringin so much and so many together!
Keep on shining!
JB will never Die :D
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Thanks for the inspiration, John.
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ec
climber
ca
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RIP John
Condolences to family...
We crossed paths several times over the years. All were good moments.
 ec
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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What can I say when the climber who was my greatest inspiration in 30 years of climbing dies? It's just awful. I just know, though, that he led an amazing life, far more than mere mortals can grasp. But I am very sad and I will miss him. May he rest in peace.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Wow, just came out of the woods and landed in Arcata, where Val and Tyrus live, walked into the gym this morning and heard this...
have no words really, an amazing legacy, an inspiration to generations, I was psyched to think of him growing old soloing easy lines to the end...
Big heartfelt condolences to Tyrus, and all who were close to him.
Peter Mayfield
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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John was one of those rare and amazing people that combined raw talent and deep intellect through a laser-like focus, calculation and calm determination. He literally revolutionized rock climbing.
Watching him climb was awe inspiring and an education. I'm still stunned.
Sarah and I send our deepest condolences to his son Tyrus.
Randy Vogel
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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What a loss for the climbing world. There will not be another one like him, ever. My condolences to his son Tyrus, and all the Stonemasters and others who were close to him.
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MH2
climber
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Thanks everyone for giving a sense of who he was. Clearly he had a lot of good times and gave as he got.
I only knew him through articles until a young friend went West, did a ground-up FA in Josh, and had it chopped by Bachar, who had previously soloed it. Then Bachar talked it over with my friend around a campfire and an honest exchange on both sides bled off any bad feelings. A wonderful tribe, climbers.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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I guess I got lucky. Friday we spent the afternoon climbing and visiting with John at the Dike Wall. I was watching him climb a route and knew it was John climbing long before I ever saw his face. No one else will ever climb with such grace and power and precision ever again. I've known John for over 35 years and I still can't believe he fell! We will miss him a lot.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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As my wife just pointed out, at least he went out doing what he loved.
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luggi
Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
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My condolences to the family and friends.........Mark
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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My thoughts and prayers go out to his family and friends.
Met him once at the last Outdoor Retailer held in Reno, NV.
Was wearing my old Fire Flyers and John wanted to buy them right off my feet....we exchanged some good natured ribbing.
I still have the shoes.
He is and forever will be an inspiration....God Bless you Sir!
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kubok!3
climber
Austin, TX
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one of my heroes, rest in peace JB
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Devastating loss.
So many contacts with John over the years all around the world(route beta, shoe info, what wine to buy in Spain,...) It was incredible to be able to talk to a personal hero like that.
An amazing person.
My condolences to his family.
He will always be an inspiration.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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The mid 1970s at Lost Canyon in Southern Colorado . . .
Like a young Greek god . . . RIP John
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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RIP John and condolences to all.
JB’s climbing was always original and inspiring
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Jamulian
Trad climber
Jamul, CA
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What a shock. Although I never met the man, I feel a sense of loss. Condolences to his family.
I was asked by Clark Jacobs (a man without a computer and internet access) to post up the following comments on his behalf:
I am deeply saddened by John’s Death. He was the climber I most respected and my friend.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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When I saw the accident thread yesterday afternoon, I had a bad premonition, shook it off as just the remnants of the mental processes of recent events, and am now stunned.
I never met him that I know of.
Wish I had.
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Big Joe
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Sad loss indeed. Boreal's poster of John 'On the Lamb' graced countless bunkers I lived in during my late teen and early twenties and was a constant inspiration to all. Wish I could have made it to one of his Colorado shows this last year.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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John was a contrast of colors, an anomoly that made him very unique and beautiful. There will never be another person like him.
I know he loved his son greater than climbing. I also know that his current girlfriend has greatly helped him through incredible hurdles. This is the last thing they expected to be entering their lives.
My heart goes to Paola and Tyrus. My heart goes out to all his family and friends.
Anastasia Frangos
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Sean Jones
climber
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Was just emailing with Val last night and looking at pictures of John and his boy........happy...........F#ck. This has me really sad right now. Lost for words....lost...with an empty feeling.
Carry on John. As long as I'm alive, I'll help Val and your boy in any way I can.
Lots of love to all.
Sean.
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sweatyballs
Trad climber
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I get this eerie feeling as of late when first opening up this forum. There has just been too many deaths of our climbing brothers. RIP and deepest sympathy to the Bachar family.
Mike
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Does anyone go On the Lamb *without* visions of John Bachar, from this photo, in their mind?
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Scott1E
Trad climber
Concord, California
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What a life to have led. He did it like it should be done. A genuine hero.
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ancient
Sport climber
boulder,co
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many memories,but the ones i'll always retain are that mischievous grin,the laugh and of course that "bachar strut".
a fall day in the 70's with j long,m graham and bachar in ft. collins,good times.
rip mr bachar.
jim michael
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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That Fall day so long ago, Ft. Collins, CO
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Just learned of the news (here).
What do you say?
How do you go through your day?
Frustrated, maybe angry?
Maybe feeling like once again he gave us all a 'heads up'?
Heads up, that it's all temporary...
That we are all valid,
that passion/compassion can be endless,
his was!
~~~~~~~~~~~
We all have teachers and guides through out our lives.
I wonder if prof. JB realized how widespread his classroom was?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Mike can we post details of the service and if folks other than family are invited? I for one will fly in to pay my respects.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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inside the magazine depicted below (from 1984) is a fascinating photo article about the young climber, John Bachar. It's definitely a time capsule peice and worth searching out. Next time I'm at the ranch I will nab it and scan it!
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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I started to write some thoughts yesterday, I did not know what to say so I deleted it. I really did not know John only meet him a few times at events and through friends. But I do remember one conversation during the early years of the bolts wars. He simply asked that before rapping a route let someone try to do it ground up. A simple request with so much behind it. JB set a high standard and kept to it. Something few do. JB you will be missed by many. Sorry to see you go. My condolences to JB's family and many friends.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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this is a sad day in american rock climbing when you lose a legend and one that touched so many people....
i am crushed as are all of us on the ST.
To me he was: my mentor, my friend, my inspiration. he taught me so much about life, climbing, style, music...
he introduced me to the art of ground up....taught me how to hang on a hook a drill.
introduced me to rap and jazz...
the stone masters have left an imprint on so many climbers over the years and they set the bar so high and have done more to progress the sport and i will always be grateful to have spent the time i did with the crew.
life is short, sweet and bitter at the same time...
we have lost a great man to use Graham's words and the global climbing community
owes a life time of respect a gratitude to JB...
I miss you bro and am thankful to have the memories that we created together...
ks
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Abjays2
Trad climber
Calistoga,CA
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John Bachar plain and simple. "The best free climber in this century." RIP John. D. Abend
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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Marty and all who have been emailing and calling.
I’m finding I can write about this better than I can talk about it.
We are all outside the family loop right now. They are going through a private period and surely spinning. They know the support is here and waiting. These decisions about Funds and services will come out when they’re ready.
I love hearing and reading all the kind words. John would be beaming and blushing…
Mike Graham
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Kinda of a trippy reflection Jaybro, that the article on Bachar should be in a magazine with Michael Jackson's tour on the cover
Peace
Karl
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabon movin on
|
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John, you will be missed. I'm headin out to the shed to play my Conn Tranny for you now.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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This is John's favorite poem.
------------------------------------------------
The Eagle
BY ALFRED, LORD TENNYSON
He clasps the crag with crooked hands;
Close to the sun in lonely lands,
Ring'd with the azure world, he stands.
The wrinkled sea beneath him crawls;
He watches from his mountain walls,
And like a thunderbolt he falls.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Mike, understand. While I was never as close to JB as the stonemasters, I have had many encounters with the man over the years. I saw him grow up along with myself from a young ego centric kid to a great father to his son and a mature inspiration to all of us. Let us know what if there anything we can do. Truly a ledgend.
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cary
climber
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I only knew John from doing buisness with him with Acopa. One of the greatest memories was a trade show night out when he was on stage in SLC and playing sacs. Everyone was on their "way" and John started to rap on the mic about whatever, and the sound guy shuts him off and he keeps on going on like nothing happened.Could not here sh#t. Super funny. We had a good laugh the next day. Doing buisness with him was allways a pleasure.His climbing speaks for itself.Will miss him and his stories.Hope all his close friends and family the best.A sad day indeed.Until we meet again.
Cary
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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unBELIEVEable
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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John,
I was looking forward to seeing you in two weeks at the show. It has always been a good time hanging out with you. Thanks for all of the fun conversations and keeping me correct with climbing history and artifacts.
You definately were in a league all of your own. I am going to miss you. When I get to heaven, I hope there are some good routes left up there. Save me some!
Totally bummed........Marty
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climbera5
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Thanks JB for the memories, the inspiration, and sharing your soul. A life well lived. RIP.
Mitch
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Anastasia,
a remarkable choice.
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Robb E
Trad climber
Big Smoke, GB
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Not sure I've ever felt so sad about the loss of someone I never knew. John Bachar seemed somehow invincible... immortal even.
Condolences to everyone who knew him from across the pond.
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jordi
Trad climber
BARCELONA,SPAIN
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From Barcelona
John segui de cerca todas tus escaladas; fuiste y seras mi idolo
"the sky is the limit"
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Too soon John, we, your fellow dreamers, have become the keepers of those dreams. We were not ready! The music plays on, but we are still. In sorrow, we salute you.
What if I live no more those kingly days?
their night sleeps with me still.
I dream my feet upon the starry ways;
my heart rests in the hill.
I may not grudge the little left undone;
I hold the heights, I keep the dreams I won.
Geoffrey Winthrop Young, 1923
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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Terrible news. My condolences to all his loved ones.
Anne-Marie
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Just got back from a couple days of climbing and saw this bad news!
Tough news to fathom, at a loss for words
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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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While paddling my surfboard this morning I had a couple of visions from my past. I was strolling through the camp 4 boulders back in the early seventies and crossing paths with a tall, skinny, ultra fit, blond kid that was the most elegant rock technician that I had met. From that day on I knew what smooth calculated precision on rock was.
As I paddled further, I reminisced the same fellow soulfully playing his saxophone in the camp 4 parking lot next to his open van door. He created a magic mood that will forever be in my quiver of great memories of my time spent in Yosemite Valley.
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Greg Epperson
climber
Joshua Tree
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John at his Foresta house, before the fire of course.
My most prized possessions are a quick-draw I stole from Lynn Hill and a cassette tape John made for me, a compilation of James Brown.
RIP
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Lee_J
Trad climber
Buena Vista, Colorado
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I spy a tiny hold
rest awaits
nothing but air below
my heart beats
I make the move
a smile takes over
I am consumed
joy again in this familiar moment
many don't understand why
I don't care
It's not to live or die
It's to live and dare
Go now John and scare those in Heaven!
-Lee Jenkins
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the end of the world as we know it, & I feel fine.
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That poem is so beautiful Anastasia. Thanks for sharing another aspect of John's beautifully faceted soul.
Eric
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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John and another Yosemite legend Roger Derryberry
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Well, Mr. Bachar....headed out to watch the sunset and send my thoughts and prayers up for your loved ones and friends. Peace
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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This untimely passing is an immeasurable loss to the mountaineering universe that brings me great sadness. He was what all of us aspire to be as a person, always full of honor, humor, and goodness. To me, he will always be the best climber in the world.
Thanks John, for being you.
Chris Runner
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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greg--
wow, great, great picture.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I just found out about this. The thread titles said it all even before I opened any of them. What a shock. When something tragic and sad like this happens there's just no good way to find out about it.
We have truely lost one of our brightest shining stars.
Best wishes to the family as they deal with this difficult time.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Hey, Jaybro, I have a copy of that life issue. Phil's photos were great! How odd that Michael Jackson was on the cover and both their deaths were only 10 days apart. So Sad!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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I just got back from Tuolumne. Someone e-mailed me and said Bachar died soloing and I thought it was a bad joke until I logged in here.
Holy crap. I'm stunned. It's like this isn't real.
There's climbing legends and then there's Bachar. He was in a class all by himself.
I ran into him in the ORG from time to time. Nice guy and watching him solo down there so effortlessly was amazing to watch.
RIP man. Reardon got a soloing buddy in the great beyond way too soon.
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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To have John Bachar as a mentor was a gift, your spirit will live with us forever (YOU ARE LEGEND) RIP.
Mike Fogarty
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada, CA
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Sad day...Good thoughts to family and friends.
Erik
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Largo-- Many thanks for that link. Great spur-of-the-moment writing. This is the crux:
"Thus to watch Bachar was to believe that poise, control and reason were at the heart of climbing well."
Part of the sense that Bachar's death matters is the sense that an era's passing. Many of us could've said that.
As for the "dark side," and the typically British coded language about John's personality and ego, many of us wouldn't have said that.
But that key word, "reason": It seems none of us could have said that. At least not right now. And that's one of the keys to the moment.
For years, many of us who solo have believed that with sufficent control and calculation and care, soloing could be made soli, and for many, many years, I've said that JB on the 3rd was safer than the average intermediate on almost anything.
Not that I always believed it, but it's what I told my loved ones.
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MEDDLE HEAD
Boulder climber
oregon
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SAD DAY FOR ME...JUST WAS TOLD FROM FRIEND JASON KARN OF THE SAD NEWS...WE HAD THE PRIVILEGE TO HANG OUT AND TOUR J.TREE WITH HIM AND SCOTT COSGROVE ...EVEN THOUGH ETHICS WERE A ISSUE SINCE WE WERE SPORT CLIMBERS..HE STILL AND WE STILL SEE BEYOND THE POINTS OF THAT SINCE ALL IN ALL WE WERE CLIMBERS..I SEND OUT MY SORROW TO ALL FAMILY AND FRIENDS..I WISH UPON HIM A GREAT KINGDOM OF VIRGIN ROCK AND HAVE A EVERLASTING CLIMB..
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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I think I speak for many in saying it has been amongst the most difficult of days to be a climber. An indescribably painful loss of not just a living legend, but a real friend to many of us.
Five+Dime 1982
I have spent the better part of today staring at a file containing most of the 3000+ images I took of John over the years, thinking at times that it summed up a large part of his life. I'm wrong probably, but at least for me there are many moments of sheer amazement in those images. Moments that certainly define John to some degree. His finesse and grace. His near perfection of the craft. A feeling, on my part, of great honor at getting to be there.
Dexter Canyon 1988
When I first went out to shoot John soloing in the summer of 1982, I was excited at the prospect of helping him get decent images of what he had been doing. He had showed me some previous photos, taken from the ground below and badly exposed, so I offered to go out the next day with him to Low Profile Dome, rap down and get what I could that way. As I photographed him gliding up some of his regular solos, it struck me that I could very well be present at his death, he needed only to miss one move or have a hold break. It was a stark and terrible thought and I was at moments truly afraid. But after days and months of photographing him on increasingly difficult routes, I realized he was at almost zero risk of falling. Indeed, he was in less danger than many climbers when they are roped, and I just forgot about it.
New Dimensions 1982
It has been painful to sort through that file today. But I know John would want to be remembered in the photographs that he worked so hard to make and would want us to enjoy them. No one was more dedicated than he to getting them right. So here are some familiar ones, and some that have never been seen by anyone besides the two of us. I'll put more up in a second post, and at a later date, as it seems fit.
On an early shoot of On the Lamb, with Fire prototypes that were never put in production. Alongside his chalk bag is a toothbrush and his car key.
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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I always liked the way John looked like a phantom in this image. Fingertips 1986
John loved the reverb effect in the tunnel near his house in Foresta. 1985 for Outside Magazine
Thank God Ledge, with Peter Croft, just after the rainstorm on the first El Cap/Half Dome one-day 1986
An evening jaunt up Rawl Drive
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Katie_I
Mountain climber
Wyoming
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One of my favorite John Bachar quotations: "Climbing is a
journey of devotion. The environment, by its severity, dictates
movements of the spirit."
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Life, what a trip. John was one helluva guy who had funk, ability, courage, and an appearance of peace.
To the Family, Be strong and know that this man was loved around the World. We were blessed to be here to witness such a life.
Aloha,
wil
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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yeah, Blitzo the ironies with that mag are amazing.
Beth babe, you were in the Meadows this weekend? So were we! Myself, Daphne, Ed, my daughter, how did we all miss each other? We gotta coordinate more while we have the opportunity!
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Norman Claude
climber
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Hey long lost Brethren,
Sorry the twisted turn of events has me thinking about you all and of course John. No cliche can pad my sadness for Tyrus and our shared loss.
A powerful bond that climbing thing.
I'm sure John is already pressing limits on a higher plane.
Claude Fiddler
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michaellane
climber
Spokane, WA
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John was a legend--in every sense of the word--to me for years before I eventually met him. When we did finally meet, I kept watching him to see if I could catch a glimpse of the greatness I'd built up and expected. I'm not sure what I was looking for, but I figured it'd be something obvious, like maybe he'd be wearing a cape under his civvies or something.
Over time, we'd run into each other at the trade shows and wind up having drinks or grab a lunch or something and it dawned on me that he's just a guy. A real normal guy, actually, like the rest of us.
Well, not exactly like the rest of us ... his cajones were a bunch bigger and he had vision and a talent for climbing that only comes by once for every few ten-thousand climbers ... but when you sat down with the guy, he was approachable and genuine and liked to laugh, tell stories and even listen to yours.
The climbing community won't be the same without him. There's nobody like John Bachar nor, I believe, will there ever be. He was perfectly matched to his time and he brought a vision and a style to climbing that is uniquely his. I’m really going to miss him. I extend heartfelt condolences to his family and to our community. We’ve lost a big one, but his legend will remain for as long as human beings continue to climb rock.
--ML
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RocaLibre
Trad climber
Mexico City, Mx
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So sorry for John's family, specially his son. He and I had talked about him doing a slide show in Mexico City next time he was in Mexico. He was a teacher and beautiful soul.
Sad day,
Leon Islas
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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tx for the photos phil. the rawl drive and thank god photos are especially good.
that first photo, on reed's: he looks so young. i met john the year before, and he looked so ancient to me then.
he was at least three years older.
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Jack Herrick
Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
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So sad. John, thanks for showing us what was possible.
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rockbetty
Social climber
El Portal, Ca.
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I'M SO SORRY FOR TYRUS'S AND THE WORLD'S LOST. IT'S BEEN A LONG TIME SINCE I JOHN.I FIRST MET HIM IN 1977 BOULDERING IN JT WITH YABO.IN 1984 I GAVE HIM MY DINNER WHEN I WENT IN TO LABOR WITH MY SON. I SAW HIM IN HIS NEW HOUSE,TYRUS WAS LESS THAN A MONTH OLD.SO MANY GOOD TIMES AND MEMORIES. MY SON TOLD JOHN ONCE, THAT HE WAS "SUPPOSE TO BLOW NOT SUCK", WELL THIS NEWS SUCKS! I HOPE TO HERE JOHN PLAYING WITH COLTRANE,JUST BLOWING IN THE WIND.....RIP DB
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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I watched him bouldering years ago in Tuolumne and was amazed.
Then he said he was done warming up and went off to do something bigger.
He was exceptional.
He was human.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Bachar was a part of the Foundation of the sport to me.
I was too shy to talk to such a heavy player in the early 80's in Tuolumne.
We were on the Dike route, parking at the the anchors after pitch one, and John comes climbing up on the crystals using only his feet and trying to go no hands- just balancing up the wall.
I think he had a red VW camper and we would see it parked around by the Meadows store-it was sort of like knowing that there was this really famous guy living next door.
And now there is this really famous guy and he's moved away
so sorry
Dan
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Thanks, Phil Bard, wonderful photos. I always wondered (for the last 20 odd years) if that was the Solano/Shattuck tunnel in Berkeley. Now I know better.
Cheers!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nice shots, Phil.
That Thank God Ledge shot is f*#king sweet!!!!
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mr-p
Trad climber
Invisible City
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I admired the man for many reasons, obviously his climbing feats, but most importantly his integrity. Right or wrong, he was willing to stand up for what he believed even if he swam against the current.
Only on Saturday, I had read his post about the "4th of You lie", which was in a way, a mildly subversive thing to post in a day of national celebration. He must have known, it would have some people flaming him. But for some, including me, it had the effect of increased admiration for his capacity to self-reflect regardless.
I drove around upstate NY that day, watching the celebrations, with thoughts he had provoked in the back of my mind. Like any good man, I think he just wanted a better world.
Like many others here, I never met him in person, but in a small way, I felt I knew him.
When time makes the loss a little bit more bearable, it will be time to reflect on his legacy and the fact that he touched many lives, of people he hadn't even met.
My respects John, rest in peace.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Thanks for the incredible photos. I feel like the world has lost a great light today and it feels dark. Doubtless the light will return to us. The gods must be throwing a party welcoming home this hero, this great but humble man.
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rrrr3
Trad climber
new paltz
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When I heard the news today, my heart felt a heavy blow. Your vision...your dedication, your presence, keep us all a bit more honest. I know you made me a better climber.
thank you.
Russ Raffa
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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This is a great loss to our community.
John Bachar was an inspiration to more than he will even know.
He contributed to the community more than we will ever know.
I am saddened more than I'll ever know.
Good bye John Bachar
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kinNogo
Boulder climber
Redwood City
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my condolences to his famiLy..! what a sad day today is..
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AronStock
Boulder climber
Detroit
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2 days ago i placed my first hand-drilled bolt at my new local crag here in japan. it took almost 45 minutes, and i was on rappell with some hooks. After I got down, i turned to my wife and said "can you believe those oldschool hardasses would stand on 5.11 slab and drill a bolt on lead, 50 feet off the deck?" little did i know that at perhaps that same moment, one of those oldschool hardasses was embarking on his last climbing route...
so much admiration. i was glad to have met him, only once, but i will never forget watching him climb that day at my climbing gym in los angeles. so solid it has ridiculous. john bachar will be the first angel with no wings, he doesnt need them!
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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I was draw today to go up to lake George and just take a look at the Dike wall, as I was there a couple of friends, bondo and Talsky were walking down from the base. We talked about John and they spoke of the fallout at the base. they said how much better they felt seeing where he fell from wasn't on one of the tricky north face routes witch might be deemed recklass but down on the lower end, probably just cruising for a workout- maybe a broken hold- no one will ever know- As we talked Clevenger walked up, also draw to the wall-It shows what a huge influence Bachar was to all and the incedible loss to the tribe. Peace John
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DJMac
Big Wall climber
Bonedale, CO
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It feels like a lifetime ... so much respect for this man, for so many years. Not just for his climbing, but for being the incredible person he was. John was only a year older than me and I followed his mastery of climbing most of my life.
John, we will miss you man!
My prayers go out to John, his family and his closest friends.
I will continue to look up to you JB ... as I always have.
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Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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Prayers for family, and friends, and all of us who looked up to this great individual. Rest in peace John Bachar.
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Strez
Trad climber
CA
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This is tragic news. John was truly an inspiration.
Rest in Peace
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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I am heartbroken. I just talked to John in Golden at his show and then we exchanged emails. Although I hadn't seen him since Camp 4 in the mid 70's I felt a real bond to him when I saw him again a week or two ago. I'm devastated. My condolences to his family.
Ann and I feel privileged, honored, to have heard him talk about the meaning of his life. I'm so sad.
Jonathan
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Just my interpretation of the Great Man taking the definitive journey
Peace
Karl
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john hansen
climber
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I never met John, but back in 84 or so, I was strolling along in the vicinity of Camp 4, when I heard the haunting sound of a solo saxaphone wafting down from some where up in the forest above.
I sat down on a rock and listened for a while as the soulful melodies echoed off the Vally walls and the late afternoon shade faded into the early evening twilight.
And I thought to myself, "Now that,, is pretty cool..".
Thanks John,,
John Hansen
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jeffw
climber
portland, or
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started reading this thread before i went out climbing today...didn't know him but he certainly had a lot of friends.
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diablo
Trad climber
sd,ca
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JB.....RIP. I'm sad. My Condolences to all close to John.
Jeff Almodovar
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Juanito
Social climber
San Diego, CA
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Thanks Phil for posting those photos. I started climbing in 82/83 so those were some of the first climbing images that I ever saw. Bachar was just such a hero to me at the time and inspired me in so many ways. That poster of him soloing on the Cookie (or was it Lunatic Fringe) used to hang in my room back home. (I still have it stored out back I think.)
My portrait that I shot of him at the J Tree reunion still hangs in my office. When I look at John, he still reminds me of what it's like to be the undisputed best in the world. What it's like to follow your own path. Tomorrow, when I sit at my desk and I see John looking back at me, all of that will be mixed with sadness. Farewell John Bachar.
John
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Those are nice, Karl!
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Tuolumne, mid eighties. It's one of those incredible Indian Summer days, October maybe, I'm up from the Valley for a last fix for the year. I'm doing my little "junior's solo circuit". Psyching up for Golfer's Route I think, on Low Profile, here comes Bachar, strolling down from who knows what. There's maybe six climbers in the whole flippin' Meadows!
Well he comes right over and chats, like I'm an old pal. We're climbing at levels that are worlds apart, but we're each out there alone, enjoying the magic of that place. The topic of crystals came up, I guess, 'cause he parted with the advice "stay on the smaller, embedded ones."
I hear that admonition to this day, whenever I'm tempted to yard on a sucker jug. I'm a couple of years older than him, but I heed that advice from Uncle John.
Brad Huys
PS, I also got to enjoy the" El Cap Jam Session" from Camp V, although I think it was for someone else!
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idylwild Ca
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I thought about john a lot today while soloing Jensons jaunt and the trough at Tahquitz. John saw me struggling on stem jam in hidden valley camp ground back when the fire cat had just come out. He came up to me like a drug dealer and said " wana try these" I sent it first try and bought 2 pairs. He was the biggest influence on many of us. Peace JB EA
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Andy Puhvel
climber
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When I was a 14-year-old boy growing up in the San Fernando Valley of Los Angeles, photos of John Bachar meant one thing: ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE! For a generation of climbers, of people, Bachar meant this.
I was nearby the day he died, sitting on top of Crystal Crag in the High Sierra sun. The day was beautiful, absolutely beautiful. I had soloed up Crystal Crag, which sits right above the Dike Wall and has a decent view of it. My good friend James was visiting town, and we were soloing together. The Mammoth Crest was windy that day, with strong, fun gusts blowing through. The temps were perfect. The stone was beautiful. The stone was absolutely mother-f*#king beautiful. It was Granite.
As we topped out near the end of the North Arete on Crystal, we stopped for a visual tour of the area.
The high country was immortal, a place where spirits dwell, not humans, at least not for long. The Mammoth Crest was very close, half-an-hour hike, very close to Crystal Crag and the Dike Wall. The Mammoth Crest, where the wild winds of the Pacific Ocean world wave jet stream blast up the San Joaquin River drainage and flood the minds of young men to embrace life. The winds and storms funnel themselves year after year upstream and up canyon, up and over the top of the Sierran dream, the Yosemite chant, the high country surfer, the ropeless warrior, as the glacier carved us tribesmen a history of deep knowledge.
So Bachar's course was set. He could not say NO. He was there that day and it was beautiful in his backyard--close to the spirits, away from the crowds. It was in the 70's which was nice, and it was his, and that made it perfect. He lived close to the crest. Most of the tribe had scattered, but the elders knew no other life and had stayed in the vicinity--Bachar, Kauk, Werner, Croft. The elders stayed, for life was found close to the crest.
So Bachar soloed the day he died, and the winds blew over the crest of his life and he thought about it as he fell, and there he was, as he had thought about it ten thousand times, as he had thought about it a million times, in dreams, moments, moves, reaches, smears, breaths...yet he had held onto the knowledge and the belief that anything is possible, mother f*#kers!
I stood and stared at the Dike Wall, right there below, in the shade, its slightly overhanging walls of perfect jewels for his fingers. Where he meditated. I showed my friend James the wall and explained it was a good wall, sitting perched there above the emerald lake, in the talus of perfect geological fate, in the sacred timing of falling heroes. He was there that day, as I gazed through the growth of green needles on trees of willow and pine and juniper which framed my view of where Bachar fell. There, in the truth of the Californian sun, he discovered he was there. I hope, John, you were happy there. Thank you. We love you.
Andy Puhvel
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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" stay on the smaller embedded ones" classic, just goes to show.
Man the guy loved to climb and share the experience in his own way.
I'm getting the feeling he shared it with a lot of people, just in passing at obscure crags.
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apogee
climber
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Andy, thank you for that- it is wonderful.
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Tom Berg
Social climber
seattle
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My name is Tom Berg and John was my cousin. The news of John's passing has hit us hard as it has hit you guys and gals. After reading all these wonderful messages and having one of my great friends be on the Mammoth Rescue team I'm greatful to you all and to you Scott. John loved more that anything to climb and loved Tyrus and his family so much. He loved all of you and please don't forget this. As the world has lost the Greatest Mountain Climber that lived , I am positive that you all will keep climbing in his honor and every once in awhile take a time-out and look up. John will be at the top cheering you on. John has reached the top and will miss you all. He died doing what he loved and wouldn't have wanted it no other way. It was a beautiful day with the greatest backdrop god could make. From Johns Family thank you all for the greatest sympathies.
RIP John.
Always Loved and Never Forgotten
As John Would Say,
Cheers,
Tom
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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We need grand old men to help guide the sport into the future - and now we'll have one less of them (and one of the brightest lights at that), this loss will grow as the years move forwards and away from his influence...so now, he really is a legend, never to be seen on the rock again, just a story to the next generation - this is where the loss lies from a rock climbing point of view.
As for his family, well, anyone who has lost a loved-one will know and send their sympathies.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Wanted to honor a very unique, gifted and kind man today. To find a place to draw away and remember his family, special people and friends in his life in prayer and positive thoughts. To reflect on a life and a pilgrimage. I was aiming for the mountains but ended up here.
The People's Wall in La Jolla... because Mr. Bachar was all about people. Reading this Thread and so many comments about JB , this man was indeed all about people. He cared.
John was scheduled to speak here at the La Jolla Museum of Contemporary Art. What a loss. He had been working at many projects for the next great part of his life.
John literally emerged from the Rock.....
And walked his Golden Trail.
And like any truly great person had waves of controversy in his life.....
Taking the tokes of age his philosophy of climbing and caring never changed.
The sun finally set for you, John Bachar, July 5, 2009. You remain true always to your loved ones, your friends, your philosophy of rock and ...your caring. Peace Dude and Cheers Amigo. Thanks for all.
"Now I commit you to God and to the word of his grace."
Lynnie
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Avajane
Trad climber
Seattle
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What a huge loss to his friends and family, and to the climbing community. I didn't know him, but I brushed past his life several times over the years. Once on Fairview Dome in the mid 80's, he cruised past me solo while I was at a stance. He was very polite and gracious as he excused himself. Of course he didn't know it, but a few years earlier (79 or 80) I was stuck in Tuolumne and had put up a note looking for partners to climb 5.9's with. I got a reply with his name on it saying "I only climb 5.11, after pre inspection." So I guess he did climb fleetingly with me - and only on a 5.9.
He was "the" climbing hero of my generation, and we feel his passing deeply. It seemed like he was always climbing the hardest, the fastest, and the boldest on the biggest stage at the time, Yosemite. Most climbers like myself couldn't try to emulate him - we could only shake our heads in awe. So much of what he did was so ahead of it's time.
If I ever get to do another first ascent I will name it after him, as long as I get the balls up enough to do it in good enough style. His was the best!
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Couple of thoughts that struck me as I keep coming back to this thread.
You don't hear any creeps saying that what he did was stupid or reckless. JB was just that solid. Anyone who's seen him climb knew he was solid.
Also, I'm straight, but after seeing a grip of photos of JB, I have to say, the man could rock the short shorts!
Hope you're smiling down on us John - climb on
TC
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amyjo
Trad climber
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I was just thinking about Bachar this afternoon out at the Leap.
Putting my foot so carefully, remembering him putting his foot so carefully, way the hell up at Joshua Tree. So brave, so doing what he had to do. That 4th of You Lie post. Brave again. Tonight I'm hearing that saxaphone out in the parking lot. So sorry.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sitting here in the dark, eyes open, mind open...thinking,..wondering. What were his thoughts that day?
How do I feel? My family doesn't understand,..can't make them.
I barely knew him....from a long time ago.
I wouldn't have expected to feel SO much at this time, but it's strange....and I do.
There are times that stand like towers, where you don't forget.
I'll always remember where I was:
The day my father died.
The day John Lennon died.
The day Jerry Garcia died.
The day John Bachar died.
I didn't expect this.
The Lure of Little Voices, by Robert Service, 1/16/1874-9/11/58
There's a cry from out the loneliness -- oh, listen, Honey, listen!
Do you hear it, do you fear it, you're a-holding of me so?
You're a-sobbing in your sleep, dear, and your lashes, how they glisten --
Do you hear the Little Voices all a-begging me to go?
All a-begging me to leave you. Day and night they're pleading, praying,
On the North-wind, on the West-wind, from the peak and from the plain;
Night and day they never leave me -- do you know what they are saying?
"He was ours before you got him, and we want him once again."
Yes, they're wanting me, they're haunting me, the awful lonely places;
They're whining and they're whimpering as if each had a soul;
They're calling from the wilderness, the vast and God-like spaces,
The stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole.
They miss my little camp-fires, ever brightly, bravely gleaming
In the womb of desolation, where was never man before;
As comradeless I sought them, lion-hearted, loving, dreaming,
And they hailed me as a comrade, and they loved me evermore.
And now they're all a-crying, and it's no use me denying;
The spell of them is on me and I'm helpless as a child;
My heart is aching, aching, but I hear them, sleeping, waking;
It's the Lure of Little Voices, it's the mandate of the Wild.
I'm afraid to tell you, Honey, I can take no bitter leaving;
But softly in the sleep-time from your love I'll steal away.
Oh, it's cruel, dearie, cruel, and it's God knows how I'm grieving;
But His loneliness is calling, and He knows I must obey.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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I just heard about this shocking news tonight, on my way home from the Sierras. First, I found out my brother in-law died yesterday evening when his car crashed in Malibu Canyon & then 5 minutes later, I get a flood of text messages. John Bachar died at the Dike Wall @ Mammoth.
I could not believe what I was reading. My very first climbing trip to JTree, John soloed Bearded Cabbage like it was 5.8. I had never seen such boldness before & I was amazed that he could be so calm, yet so bold. Later on, as I got to know him, I saw how focused he could be, but he could be a silly, goofball a minute later. He was priceless. Goodbye & RIP my friend.
WBL
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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I only met John a few times when I was much younger, but was always struck by his graceful relationship with gravity, his playful bond with stone and his passion for working magic in the mountains as naturally as possible. The pure wildness of his legacy and the magic he created together with so many rock monoliths will surely live on for the ages in a funky mountain beat carried on by Sierra winds, those incredible thunder clouds and the folk who like to crawl around where its steep.
I know it must be hard for those closest to John, he was truly a hero to many of us in the community of climbers
E
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Damn- I was out soloing the last two days-
even as a recent entrant to climbing I was was soon steeped in the lore of jb. Of all the elite that have gone down while I have been involved (4 years) this one is the heaviest in many ways for me-
life is a deadly thing
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dave gill
climber
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Tragic news.
I only met John the once, but was immediately struck by his generosity, his passion for climbing and his incredible story telling ability. Here's a video extract from the interview we filmed with him in July last year:
http://steepmedia.wordpress.com/2009/07/07/john-bachar-1957-2009/
My deepest condolences go out to John’s family and friends.
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darod
Big Wall climber
South Side Billburg
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What a terrible loss. My deepest condolences to his friends and family...
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TMO
Trad climber
Puyallup, WA
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My heart really goes out to Tyrus and Johns family.
Someone once told me; You can never "get over" the loss of a loved one or "move on"... one must learn to live with the loss and the memories.
I never knew John but certainly new OF John, and never realised until now what an influence he was to me.
I implore you all- Honor the hero's among us while they are here to bask in the glow of it, life is too short, shower them with the love they deserve!
I keep reading and re-reading the words of the indomitable John Long;
"He completely dominated the cliff with his grace and confidence".
Troy Moss
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radair
Social climber
North Conway, NH
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Very sad news. Thank you all for the fine photos, both new and old, especially Phil Bard's shots.
A very influential man. Condolences to his family & friends.
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mattly trent
Trad climber
bear valley
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A great light has gone out............I was awed by John and his style.........talked to Brenda Lugo yesterday and she was devestated! Never got to climb with John but on a few occasions got to play music with him, always wanted to record something with him..........going out doing what you love is the best way to go! John, you have inspired thousands to push forward.....good on ya! time to put some Coltrane on. Mattly Trent
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captain chaos
climber
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I'm left speechless... and am overwhelmed by flashbacks of good times I've had with John over the years. Since I just learned this news, it still hasn't sunk in that he is gone. I'm especially sorry for your loss Tyrus, this will not be easy for you. If there is anything I can do to help, please do not hesitate to contact me. Sad and speechless... your fathers good friend- Craig Calonica
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Words fail. Peace to his son and all those directly involved.
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morgan nutting
Trad climber
sacramento ca
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Met John Bachar when I was living in Bishop. He had always been one of my all time climbing heros. Couldn't have been a nicer guy.
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Niekolaas
Trad climber
Utrecht, The Netherlands
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very very sad news, my condoleances to everybody who loved him!!
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midi510
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes
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I've waited to post, just being with the reality of what has happened and reading the other posts. Enjoying the photos too. I won't be writing this to John, he's not focused on the internet now. It's for those who just didn't get enough of John while he was here.
I didn't know john like most of you did. Yes, I'm a climber. Having grown up in Mammoth how could I not be. The first time I encountered John was early '80s, I was just seconds off Vice Gripped/American Wet Dream when when John came running off the route. A quick nod or hi and he was off in the distance. No doubt to another route. With common friends and moving in similar circles, we never really met until after he moved to mammoth. In the mid '90s my [then] wife Kathy who worked with Val, was telling me of visiting them after work and how this guy was a really good and pretty well known climber. There were even posters of him hanging around. The backyard set-up too. It's interesting that after admiring him as a climber all those years I would come to know him more as a parent than anything else. I couldn't believe when Kathy told me they were having a baby. She said not to tell anyone. I don't even know if John knew at that point. I was one of the first few people in the world to know that John Bachar was going to be a father. I think I was the first person to ever baby sit Tyrus away from his home. Definately his first overnighter. Tyrus had me and my (4) kids in stiches at dinner freestyle rapping.
I can't tell you a lot about details of john's life, when we were together we mostly just shared the space. We were comfortable just being together. If we talked it was most likely about microphones or recording techniques or a mechanical design. One day he came to me and said he needed a trade show booth. They cost about $4,000 and weren't very strong. Could I build one for half that and make it better. Well, it was a rush job and I wish I cold have made it to my usual standerds but Salt Lake City was happening and I finished it just in time for them to pack it up and hit the road. I'm sure many of you have seen that booth. I made some money, but was mostly just happy I could put some love into his new venture. It even survived the crash. (Which I thought was the "instead" of what has just hapened.)
Super long posts a drag so I'm cut it short(er). I'm don't care for people all that much, but I can honestly say I loved and liked John. Whenever we talked in Vons, I wanted to just go off together and talk about something important. Or just give him a hug, which I never did. We really never got down to the good stuff. Maybe it didn't need to be spoken. Val, if you're reading this give me a call 914-0999.
Kirk
p.s. I can't leave this without relating how more than once I would be out somewhere towards Crater Flats cutting firewood and after shutting the saw down, hering sax notes wafe through the forest and knowing - who else could it be but John.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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We'll miss you, Johnny B.
You have been an inspiration to this era.
We're sending you good energy in this time of passing.
your friend,
John Middendorf
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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ouch, pretty bummed out here. john was no less than my total hero for the way he climbed and stuck to his guns. while on the rescue team in the 1980's in the meadows, he influenced us to make some of the sickest runouts ever. as far as i know, my route "burning down the house" that i put up with kurt smith has still never been repeated. for kurt, scott burke, scott cosgrove, john middendorf, and others, his ethics instilled a sense of pride that to climb these runout routes, one had to be fully commited in the mind as well as the body.
in later years, when i talked to john by phone, i could tell that having a son had mellowed him into a kinder, gentler, john bachar. i'm so sad that i will never get to talk to him again, but his legacy will last forever. whoever has ventured onto the bachar yerian knows what i am talking about. john, you were the greatest, thanks for teaching us that climbing is not just about the difficulty, but that it is also a cerebral path to enlightment. ciao for now brother, steve schneider
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Rubidoux Wilson
Trad climber
Santa Maria, CA
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I have fond memories of Bachar. Like the time he and Tobin were "race walking" around the loop at Humber Park. Or when we all woke up to find snow on our sleeping bags one June morning in 1974 and then headed off to Big Rock for a fun "no hands" ascent of The Trough. John Long would say that his Bohemian name was Yano Baaher. I still think of that name when I remember Bachar.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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whoever missed jb's story of the bachar yearian in the latest alpinist(26) should check it out. it is the story of one of the greatest adventures in the history of rock climbing. it is the first time i had ever heard john's rendition of this epic journey(although i had heard yerians campfire rendition). strange that he would write this tale just before his passing. I'll miss you john, you were a true inspiration, and a fellow blonde at that. ciao, steve schneider
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jstan
climber
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Dylan Thomas' poem on going gently into that good night strikes a chord
in us all, surely. And earlier in Lester Germer I had seen a person who had
decided not to change, even for a day, the way they wanted to live. But still.......
With continued existence we all have new opportunities to contribute. And
since the end ultimately comes whether we wish it or not, in the last analysis
what we want no longer controls.
Even so it is still possible for one, as they are being drawn away, yet to reach
back and to try to build....
This is a terrible loss.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I am in Venezuela now, with family. Yesterday I did little but trowl through these threads. The memories I have of JB just kept flooding my mind, made all the more powerful because the best ones, the strong ones came down when we both were teenagers.
Like going to his Mom´s house to snag JB on the way out to Tahquitz, and having a sit down with her (because I was the older and `famous´one - ha) to establish that JB was capible, safe and sane. Or the time his dad accompanied JB up to Yosemite with the proviso that JB could only climb 200 feet - then he had to rap off - a rule we broke straightaway by climbing Reed´s Direct. And out at Josh, discovering So High, White Rastafarian, and a thousand other problems. Cajoling JB up his first freesolo (Doublecross), which was like releasing a shark into the ocean. Driving out to Colorado to meet Gill, and doing all the problems on the Mental Block, Eliminator boulder, soloing the Gill Crack and scaring the crap out of each other, bagging the sensational stuff down in Pueblo like the Ripper Traverse and all the rest. And all along, slowly but surely, easing into higballing (then just watching JB soar so far above the rest of us we could only watch in awe and wonder).
And taking JB and Kauk up their first big wall - The Gold Wall, which we almost did all free, in four or five hours. Doing Astroman, running laps on Butterballs and New D., going to jazz concerts, smoking bushels of ragweed, working out like fiends, pounding nails with Burton and Sutton, climbing in Mexico, drinking Mescal and swallowing the worm in the bottom of the bottle, haggling over girlfriends, soloing fifty routes in a day out at Josh - and wanting to grab JBs leg when I got TOTALLY sketched on a grainy 5.10 face about a mile off the deck, driving crap motorcycles from LA to Yosemite and watching JB duct tape the throttle wide open, bouldering each other into the ground at Roubidoux and Stoney, and just last week, 35 years later, working on a story for the Stonemaster book.
All of these things I must now let go . . .
In three hours, my youngest daughter graduates from high school, then jets off to Germany as a foreign exchange student. Life goes on. The youth take over the world, just as John and I charged into our own BITD. When I recently wrote that John was one of the greatest adventure sport athletes of the last century, I meant it. But more than that, JB was a part of my life. I´m reminded of the lines by Young that Rich Goldstone posted earlier (as always, thanks, RG) -
What if I live no more those kingly days?
their night sleeps with me still.
Goodnight, sweet prince.
John
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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" ...which was like releasing a shark into the ocean... "
Awesome.
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ZoeBachar
climber
Los Angeles
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When my dad first told me the news,I couldn't stop crying. I loved my uncle very much, he was a great guy, quick to laugh, and always thought of others. Tyrus, I'm so sorry for your loss, and know were all here for you. Rest in Peace, you will be greatly missed.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Man, what a blow. I was so stoked to check out the taco this morning after an incredible trip this weekend which I was going to write up into a trip report. Then I see this thread on the front page, my heart sank, my eyes teared and I worked my way through the thread.
Like many hear, John was an inspiration to me as a climber. I could fully appreciate what he could do, even though I could no way approach what he was capable of doing.
I met him about 20 years ago briefly at a climbing shoe demo day put on by 5.10 at Donner Summit. And that was it until I found the taco and got in touch with John via e-mails. We discussed ethics and it really formented for me what mattered and how to approach climbing. I had a vhs copy of a tv segment of him soloing Oz in Tuolumne. He said that when his house burned down he lost his copy of that segment, and he was unable to find anyone that had a copy of it. So I had it burned to a dvd and fired it off to him. I'd talked about climbing with him in the future as we were planning to head down and visit family in so-cal. He said just get in touch with him and we'd hook up.
But I digress. I'd sent John a picture of this granite dome and saying we should go climb it. Probably much more of a dream than reality, but John was always motivated to climb.
And that's where we headed this weekend. I thought I'd do some climbing with the family, but the trip was shortened and ended up as just hanging out at the beach getting sun burned and trying an approach to the dome for recon. We didn't even get to the base for good photos, but I did spend some time scoping it from binoculars and seeing some amazing features that I've never seen on a granite formation. I was totally stoked to zoom in the digital photos and send them off to John.
I'd also been working on getting up to Alaska to do one of his slide shows. We'd been trying to figure out a venue, and then I'd been in touch with Simon trying to pull it off. But sadly all thos plans are now gone.
John truly was an inspiration as a climber, because he had a wisdom about climbing. He boiled it down to the essence, you start at the bottom and you go to the top. That may sound like a cliche but it really does take wisdom to boil something down to it's essence. John will be greatly missed because he was so much more than just a great climber. He was a great man, as testament by the writings of his friends, acquaintances and admirers.
We'll miss you John, but we won't forget you.
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DanaB
climber
Philadelphia
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I've often wondered what it was that I was reaching for, what was it I was trying to see and understand when I gave my heart and soul - so many times for so many years - to these rocks. Perhaps John B. would know.
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cup
Social climber
ca
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My mind has just been wandering since I recieved a call on Sunday, about someone falling at the Dike Wall. They thought it could be Bacher. I immediately called Johns phone. My heart sank when Tyrus answered the phone, something I was completely unprepared for. I was at a complete loss for words. Tyrus handled the call with a composure way beyond his 12 years and showed a concern for my loss.
My first memories of john are from 87 when I was just getting into climbing. He would solo around Hidden valley at the end of the day. Often it would be John and Peter Croft, and to me it was show. He was a god.
I got to know John when he moved to the Eastside after his house burned down in Foresta. We started hanging out the first winter he was here. There was only a handful of guys that were consistantly climbing in the Gorge through the winter. So it didn't take long before we became friends.
He saw that I had an interest in photography and asked me if I wanted to take some photos of hom soloing in the gorge. I was really impressed by his keen understanding of climbing photography. He taught me alot of the techniques he used while working with Phil Bard. Phils shot of John soloing Oz is one of my favorites. I think John told me the original was lost, what a shame. He took me to Spain to document some of his climbs there near the Boreal factory. In a way our photography relationship came full circle when I talked him into photographing my wedding.
He taught me about Jazz.
Driving with John could be quite an experience, especially over to the Valley and back. Or in Spain, in a car with no seat belts on highways without speed limits. He probably would have done well if given the chance to race cars at some level.
I had the privilage of hearing first hand all his climbing stories. On sight soloing the Moratorium, Patagonia with Bridwell and Graham, freeing Astroman are just a few.
He called me from Vegas after he soloed the Gift the first time and wanted me to come take some photos the next time he did it. I came down the next week and brought my wife,(at that time my girl friend). We went out to the Gallery early in the morning when the light would be best for the shot John wanted. Nobody else was at the crag yet. John warmed up on some easier climbs then he soloed the gift. My wife said to me something like," What's the big deal about that. That didn't look hard!". A few hours later she had a different perspective. After watching numerous people work the the route with out a single redpoint she said," I think I understand now". He made everything he did look so easy.
His climbing spoke for itself. To me that was just a part of John. There was so much more to him than his amazing climbing ability.
I remember his excitement about becoming a father. There was hardly a time I saw John that he did not speak of Tyrus.
Ours lives went in different directions during these last years . I would only see him at the post office or market, but often we would end up talking for 10 or 20 minutes. He was a genuine man and friend. I will miss him.
I know I am running on but this is my way of saying good bye to an old friend who will be greatly missed. Good bye, John.
John McDonald
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Two years ago I lost my friend Michael Reardon. John Bachar spoke at his memorial @ Malibu SP.
Most of the stories of Michael were somber and it was sad to hear the family and friends crying at these remembrances.
When John spoke to the crowd and began to recollect the times he and Micheal had spent together, the mood changed dramatically. Through his words, the entire crowd recognized the friendship Michael and John had shared. He talked of how he admired his friend and how he thought Michael was "the real deal". People were nodding and smiling at the wonderful stories.
John brought back a part of Michael that day. The part that brimmed with enthusiasm and passion. He was able to channel the positive energy and happiness that existed between he and Micheal.
This was a moment I will never forget. A friend speaking dearly and truthfully of his care for another. A true friend with no agenda other than to pay homage to a beloved comrade.
It was an example of class and respect. To me, this is what made John Bachar a great man.
-wayne
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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What modern rock climber hasn't been influenced by John Bachar? I shared the same hometown of Joshua Tree with John for many years;.....seems like the barren desert with unlimited climbing and bouldering suited him just fine. I can't tell you how many times I saw him driving his Toyota 4-runner up to the Park....usually alone for a workout, solo session, or to explore. Playing music with Donny, Big Al, Bachar, Mike Paul, and John at the first big Access Fund gathering in Joshua Tree community center;...playing music at a New Years Eve party for hours at Karen's house in Joshua Tree.....Party in his funk/rap stage.....playing the piano for maybe 4 hours straight with John on the sax....stopping only to open another beer, and not more than a handful of words spoken;....only music, the late hour, eyes barely open slits but minds awake and alive as the music flowed like a river. Working on a certain jazz riff...again and again and again and again until we got it or grew tired of it...... Looking through telescopes at the stars and moon at Ryan campground with John and others on a night when the sky screamed out a million dots of light;...a site the city folk seemed blow away by, but the desert rats take for granite. John taking pictures of Kurt Smith on the FA of Black Out in Tuoloume Meadows while Lechlinski, Mari and I watched in amazement as Kurt ran it out , stopping every 30 or so feet to hang on one hook to hand drill a 1/4 in. bolt. John watching 10 people fail on Asteroid crack,...not taking his turn though, because he was recovering from an injury;....going to to John's "secret" workout area at the "secret" Gunsmoke area.....seeing a Bachar ladder, pulleys connected to metal drums filled with sand , and that now famous traverse... Sitting on top of Intersection Rock and having John show me these new shoes called Fires that he got in Spain, and how they were better than EB's.....(yeah;....SURE........) Bachar joking around while soloing Right V crack in Indian Cove, while some tourist trys to "talk him through it..."......Visiting John's place in Mammoth with the wild super-high climbing wall and workout area;....John doing extreme workouts at the gyms in Yucca Valley;..the pullups with weights around his waist. ......hearing Little Al describe taking photos of Bachar soloing Father Figure twice and making it look 5.7.....and Bachar's girl-friends/wife.....Brenda, Stephanie, Jean, Val, Anestasia,.......(I'm sure I missed a few there....)......visiting John and Stephanie at their place in W. Yucca years ago......and yeah; ...watching him float up Left Ski track on Intersection and then up the huecoed face right of Upper Right Ski Track time and time again............The beers, cigarettes, reefer, .......the diliberate and static way John climbed.....Soloing The Gift in Vegas;.....what if a hold breaks?.....John replied;.....I don't pull on the holds;.....only pinch them...........Trade shows, slide shows, parties, magazines, Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Eastside, Tuolumne, ........he set the bar, he established the rules, he walked the walk.......a big influence in my life. ......Now a days, the best climber in the World changes week to week, month to month, magazine issue to magazine issue, climb to climb, ......when I was growing up.....it was John Bachar;...best climber in the World;....period......year after year after year after year after year..........Rest in peace, my friend;...you will be greatly missed by many, and your influence and spirit and inspiration rages on with strength, power, and pride.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Just when I was getting into climbing there was the Boreal ad with Bachar and Croft after the HD - El Cap linkup, "two jokers and a pair of Aces"
I loved that ad - the climbers weren't posed, they were wearing ragged shirts, having fun, loving life. I went out and got some Aces. Still using the same pair ~20 years and ~10 resoles later.
Thanks JB. You made my climbing better.
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GibO
Trad climber
Breckenridge
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Wow, bad news.
Somehow concerns of this sort of thing happening with JB left a long time ago.
Glad I was able to see him in Boulder a couple of months ago and rekindle an old, deep friendship.
Gib Lewis
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I am so sorry to hear of John's passing. He was a huge inspiration to me. I still have that magazine article of him somewhere, the one with Michael Jackson on the cover.
My condolences to John's friends and family.
Peter Zabrok
Ontario, Canada
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Legends never die. You'll always be remembered and thanked for all you have left us.
Kia
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Mark Not-circlehead
Boulder climber
Martinez, CA
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John wasn't a friend to me, he was a legend.
I met him several times, he was one of the individuals in life that you meet that shine brighter than the rest of us. I am truly saddened by the loss.
I was friends with Valerie, a lifetime ago. I hope she, and her and John's son find some solace during these sad times.
Mark.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Zoe, thanks for coming to the campfire, to join us in the great gathering. We were hoping you'd arrive.....
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rookers
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Though we only met a few times during my time in CA in the mid-80s, his influence on the way I approached the sport and my own efforts in it was immeasurable.
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darin
climber
mammoth lakes
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i have been out of town for the last few days and i cant believe this.....i grew up in mammoth and now live in humboldt which is where val (his ex) and his son now live....his poor lil boy....so sad
i am not a climber, but john was one of the 1st peopl i ever played music with....what an amazing sax player......later on i found out about his climbing and coulndt believe he did what he did without ropes....he told me "we are all gonna die.....and when i go i hope it is on a rock"
its crazy because i was at a music festival this weekend talking with vals boss from here telling her that exact story.....on sunday morning
he was a great musician, dad, and climber.....but mostly he was a great guy.
the climbing world and mammoth especially will miss him....mammoth is very small and when we lose someone the whole community mourns
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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I was hoping to meet him at one of the upcoming Stonemaster slide shows. I never met JB but I have admired his life in its entirety.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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For John
. . .Until one is committed there is hesitancy, the chance to
draw back, always ineffectiveness. Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one elementary truth, the ignorance of which kills countlss ideas and splendid plans: that
the moment one definitely commits oneself, then Providence moves too. All sorts of things occur to help one that would never otherwise have occurred. A whole stream of events issues
from the decision, raising in one's favour all manner of unforseen incedents and meetings and material assistance. which no man could have dreamt would have come his way. I have learned a deep respect for one of Goethe's couplets:
Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it.
Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it.
W. H. Murray
From Everest, the West Ridge, by Thomas Hornbein
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shut up and pull
climber
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Bachar is dead. Never thought I would ever hear that in my lifetime. Great climber who left a son behind because he had to go solo some 5.10 shitpile.
F*#k John -- what were you thinking? Your neck was fused from that car accident recently, and you were out of shape. And you decide to go soloing? F*#k man!!! What the hell did you go and do that for? Lots of tears for ya dude, since there was a man behind the myth (caring, funny as hell, always willing to give beta, and one of the best story tellers around). But dammit -- soloing now? So pissed I can hardly type.
You will be missed greatly.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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I am lost with this. We survived the accident and now somehow I have become the only survivor. I had three people I loved deeply and in four short years I lost each of them. No, there is no reason to this, no logic.
I couldn't wait for the day for John to find his way, to see him happy without the stresses in his life. I knew Paola would lead him into better days. One where he would mentor the future of this sport. One where he would enjoy the beauty of watching his son become the fantastic man he is destined to be. One also where our friendship will not be constrained and we could share a beer talking about the good times. Now I have no one who remembers, no one who was there. It is so strange, so tragic that I am lost.
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darin
climber
mammoth lakes
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i was under the impression he was not gonna be soloing anymore after the car accident......but anyone that knows him will tell you that he was way to stubborn and would have been miserable not doing it anyway....tyrus is a tough kid, but i cant imagine his pain right now....they will be back here on friday and i will get the details i need
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shut up and pull
climber
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Anastasia -- my prayers to you. May God bring you peace in this terrible time.
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Anastasia- my prayers are with you...
To me, an outsider,
This is the day the music died...
Take solace in knowing John will always be ALIVE.
Peace be with you now AF, you will not be lost for long.
Peace be with Tyrus, and all who loved him.
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coldclimb
climber
Wasilla, Alaska
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Just wanted to express some more condolences from a climber who never met John Bachar, but was often awed and amazed by the glimpses I got of his life. Truly a legend. It's sad to hear he's gone.
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Just barely caught the news ...
John embodied climbing to me. Deeply saddened and speechless.
May he rest in peace.
Condolensces to his family and close friends.
Mike Hansen
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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somehow,
there is gain in loss.
though grief guides our heart for now, john's resounding vitality will surmount the ' whys? ' and eventually lead us all to the ' because! '.
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, CA
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Was so sorry to hear about John, I remember watching him climb in the late seventies... a master poet/scientist of rock. Condolences to John's family and close friends.
-from Tim and Tom Sorenson
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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If rock climbing routes are artistic pieces, JB was Rembrant.
Sincere condolences to family.
lars
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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Some more images from John's prolific past...
A rare roped image, Bombs Over Tokyo on Daff Dome
One of my favorite images of John, the last pitch of Gripper
Training at his place in Foresta 1985
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JRS
Trad climber
Lexington, KY
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Around 1986, I was 13 years old and I was becoming obsessed with climbing. I had 3 posters on my wall that I must've stared at for hundreds of hours... the Boreal "On a Lamb" poster, the Gramicci "Oz" stemming shot (in white painter's paints and red tank-top), and a classic Chouinard poster of JB on a gorgeous blue-colored Verdon route (damnit I can't remember the name).
Thanks for the inspiration, John. You changed my life, no doubt about it...
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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phil,
thanks for posting so many amazing adventures that you were a part of.
keep them coming and keep the memories alive.
ks
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Dimes
Social climber
Living in the past.
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Here is a portrait I took of John a couple of years ago in Josh. He and Coz were out soloing whilst Al Dude, Boone, Jenn and myself were hanging out taking pics and just enjoying being in their presence. I think of all those yesterdays and wish they could all be put in to just one tomorrow. Thanks John for allowing me to pull down on some of the same holds that you had.
Powell
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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He died with his boots on.
Dare anyone wish a better ending?
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Stimbo
Trad climber
Crowley Lake
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With a heavy heart and still numb from the shock of this tragedy, I too wish to pass on my condolences to Tyrus, Val, John's family and friends. His passing doesn't seem possible. John seemed immortal.
I got to know John when he first moved to Mammoth. I gave him my old ski equipment and watched him take off with glee and reckless abandon. He also dabbled in golf. John was not a golfer though as much as he tried.... it was funny watching him hour after hour bludgeon that poor little ball with a set of golf clubs. He just grinned in resignation.
However, he was second to none on the stone. His feet so precise and deliberate, fingers positive, in perfect balance and control.... everything I saw him climb seemed effortless and routine. He floated up cliff walls. John was a visionary in his climbing and ethics. With just shoes and chalk bag, he exemplified climbing in its purist form.
I am grateful and fortunate for the memories and the inspiration. My life is richer having known John. It was an honor. I will miss his smiles and jokes. The climbing world has suffered a huge loss. RIP John.
Jim Stimson
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FBIII
Trad climber
Reno
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The first time I met John I was waiting on him in the Broiler Room. He was having dinner with Sharon Blasinggame at a window seat. Sharon said to me “What happened to your hands.” I told her “I was working on Bachar Cracker before work.” She said “Do you know who this is.” I said “yes.” I have had the good fortunate to have known John since his teens. The last time I saw him was at the Loony Bean in Mammoth. I had my chess set in front of me and Tyrus and John came over Tyrus wanted to play and John said OK but we have to go soon. I was able to take most of Tyrus’ pieces and then I noticed and said “you have a mate in one.” Tyrus was only about 5 and he thought about it, for a minute, and beat me. John taught him well, John could always beat me.
I broke down crying at work today, at the thought of John’s death. I was right in front of a Minister, I had only meet this Buddhist Minister a week before. We talked and he brought up Carlos Castaneda, an author that John was familiar with. Reverend Bill told me a story from one of Calos’ books. I will paraphrase it. “We have both a blessing and a curse of a bird on our shoulder. It is the bird of Death. We can choose to ignore it, but it is still there. We can choose to acknowledge it and make use of the time we have.” John was always awake and aware of the time he had. I value the time that I have spent with John and will always find him an inspiring force in my life. Thank you John for sharing your time with me.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Back in the day in Yose we would whisper "Wow, their's Bachar"
He was the Dude! I just lead Outer Limits for the first time, and felt good about myself, then John walks up and floats up Crack A-GO-GO, and I got wicked snail eye, and my hands started to sweat, just watching!
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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so sad to hear of john's passing. he was truly an inspiration to a generation of climbers, myself included. had the honor and pleasure of climbing in the meadows with him on a few occasions and the audacity of going after some of his routes early on with al nelson, who is also no longer with us. can't say we were ever close, but i'll be missing him all the same. hope he's found the peace we're all looking for, he was a true master. -fierce tiger on rock
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TJrock
Sport climber
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I met John through Dave Yerian a few times and heard many stories over the last three years. So sad to have lost him, a superhuman climber that could do things I would never imagine possible. I was fortunate enough to have known him through Dave and to have been able to see a slideshow of his that offered a small glimpse into his mind and his world. I'm very sad for Dave to have lost this man with whom he shared so much.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idylwild Ca
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It was around 1975 and I was leading Toe jam in josh for the first time and here comes Jb down soloing the route. when he saw me he just casually traversed and down climbed a 5.10 c to the side of toe jam. I was stunned and changed forever. thank you John. I am very sad that he is gone and glad that he lived so fully. Ernesto ale
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Peej
Trad climber
NY
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I never knew the man, but I feel as though I did through stories from friends of his. He was definitely a dear friend and an inspiration to both the hard and the novice. And flights of angels sing thee to thy rest. There leaves us a noble prince in the vertical world. Christina and I are thinking of you Anastasia and our condolences to you as well as the rest of his family and friends.
Andrew Jackson
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Marc Dubé
climber
Vancouver, BC
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I am really saddened by your loss Tyrus. What a shock.
Those that knew John are very aware of how much he influenced people and a generation of climbers. On a personal level, JB encouraged me "to go for it" and have no regrets. It changed my life forever and I owe it all to climbing, so in some way I really owe a lot of it to John and his influence.
I am grateful to have known him and to have been inspired......what else can I say?
Thank you and RIP. Positive memories!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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So here I am again tonight trying to process the death of someone that was not only life and light to his own family, but a big piece in my own life recently.
Unusual situation today took me back to a place I went last night but had not been to in months....La Jolla Village Cove. Decided to find a quiet spot and ask God ..."what the heck are you doing ? "
So I did....thinking, processing and praying I asked God..... Would you please send me something special tonight to let me know that you are still in control. That this life that is gone, that so many needed in their own life will be taken care of. Jess askin' here as we be devastated.
May not mean much to yo out there, but minutes later I heard bagpipes playing.....playing songs of hope and grace. Whoa, I thought...what a grate CD.
But no CD, it was the answer to the cry of my heart for help. For a special measure of Grace. For a ....hey there I am still here and love you all.
There on the cliff was a bag pipe player, a real live bag pipe player.
Watchin' the swells come in I realized I didn't have a clue ....Some just die out and some waves break big. John's broke big on the outer swell. So we'll miss his inside break.
A man that was instrumental in big and small ways in so many lives. Gifted by Grace. Thanks Dude. Miss your mails and ideas. See ya in the heavenlies. Lynne
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tojo
Sport climber
Lake Norden, SD
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Had the previledge of bouldering with John in Joshua tree, and camp4, man what the hell.......my heart goes out to his family.
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EP
Social climber
Way Out There
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When I woke up this morning, my first thought was that John couldn't be gone.
I remember sitting in the Garden Grove library in 1983 and reading the LIFE magazine article about John.
Later, I was shown an impossible boulder at the Kern Slabs that John was seen to have made short work of. He was everywhere it seemed..
He still is.
Here is to Tyrus and all who knew and loved John Bachar.
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ron ray
climber
seattle
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Humbling to even post as I saw John climb maybe 2 times over 25 years -- in Josh, and under an overpass that sheltered a makeshift climbing wall near Palm Springs. I'm just one of the many who followed his bootprints around southern california, though seldom up the same walls.
But I have to pay tribute to someone who lived his life exactly as he choose, no compromise.
And I'll bet the Pearly Gates were climbed, free solo, on July 7 at 12b.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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This was sent to me by an old military buddy.
It was written by a fellow named David Ritchie.
I like the way it came across, so I'll share.
One of my heros died yesterday……
This is not to indict those who were, or are, simply, climbers. In the climbing community there have always been other sorts of characters too—for some, climbing was the end in itself, and what the world did with that was up to them. John Bachar, who died yesterday while climbing solo in California , was one of those. He was a pure rock climber who redefined the sport by ascending sheer rock faces of extreme difficulty without ropes to protect him in the event of a fall. What he did was athletic achievement at the highest levels of human ability and training, on par with the skill and discipline of Nadia Comeneci, Michael Phelps, Lance Armstrong, or Michael Jordan. His climbs, only a few years earlier, had been deemed impossible, even roped; climbing them without protection was as absurd as if a man had presumed to fly. But Bachar did fly. And as a result, one can’t compare his numinous climbing to climbing: instead, you have to compare it to art. To explain it best requires words used for Beethoven’s transcendent ninth symphony; it was an “expression of the divine.”
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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John’s contribution was nothing less than profound To those who could appreciate his absolute mastery on the rock, he revealed a glimpse of nearly unbounded human potential. Just as a Miles Davis recording can astound new listeners, future climbers will struggle up a route John soloed, and gasp in wonder at how much is possible.
Rick Accomazzo
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
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I am nobody in climbing.
I spent a fall in Tuolumne once - my partner and I overlapped with John, his parther (Ron Peers) and Brenda during the last climbable weeks of the fall.
One of my fondest memories of John was him chuckling at my partner and I as we showed up at the gym with pockets loaded with beers and the stench of ragweed clinging to us. It was a contrast in styles.
Almost 30 years later and in an email John recalled that day and was saddened to here that my partner had left early in a motorcycle accident. That was so cool of him.
I can easily say that John's spirit and drive made him one of the more influential personalities in my life. Right up there with the likes of Muhammad Ali.
It interesting how some individuals can transcend greatness. COrny but true.
--Dirk Vandervoort
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Janet Wilts
Trad climber
Moose
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Really sorry to hear about JB. Lots of memorys and good times.
Thoughts and prayers go to his son.....At least he was out climbing, doing what he enjoyed in life....
Janet Wilts
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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No one to fill these shoes...
(I never had the Farrah poster…)
Below, from the same trip as "Chasin' the Train" in the Frankenjura? After that trip, folks were chasin' John!
Leaves a void in the community for sure. Tragic loss.
Heavy sigh…
-Brian in SLC
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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This tragic event reminds me how the clock is ticking for us all. We get at most a hundred years. It is not fair. Why worry about the small stuff, enjoy life.
I first met Bachar at Intersection rock after he soloed Left Ski Track.
It was like meeting a God.
Juan
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WBraun
climber
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Brian in SLC
That's John in Verdon, France, on the cover of that 85 catalog.
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josan
Boulder climber
Sebastopol, CA
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'From Tara's heart - rainbow light shines forth throughout the six realms and the Bardo...enveloping the decesased one whereever he is, purifiying his karma and infusing him with Tara's radiant blessings. His form becomes a brilliant sphere of light and dissolves into Tara's heart-mind -- a realm beyond the cycles of suffering, a realm of absolute purity and bliss.'
Your light will be remembered by all that were connected to your bright spirit, dear John. And it was and is perfect.
Jo Sanders - Chapel Hill, North Carolina
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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That's John in Verdon, France, on the cover of that 85 catalog.
Yeah. Standard setting climb there too, I'm sure.
But, same trip produced "Chasin' the Train"? I seem to remember so. 1981? Was at the time one of the hardest routes in Europe? Still a coveted "tick", methinks.
Its interesting, the shoes he's wearing on that Chouinard catalog. You can tell its not an '85 (or even '84) photo. EB's. French shoes for a french route. Classic. By that time the Fires were all the rage. I think I picked up my first pair the same time I scored the poster. Bumped me up a grade, to be sure! Probably as much mental...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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Bluepell
Mountain climber
L.A., CA
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My deepest condolences to John's Family & Friends & to all those who loved him.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I gotta keep this bumped up. It is such a shattering moment.
I remember watching the JT crew soloing like maniacs BITD, and ended up soloing a bunch (starting the next day). Bachar was very influential, and not just about soloing. Maybe one of the last loud voices for style as an end in itself. I was only five years younger, and never made it close to his level, but I could explore the limits of my own meager boundaries thanks to that crowd opening my eyes. I was 18, just led my first 5.10, and I soloed it the next day. I was in total control, so it didn't feel like any big deal.
So when I heard this, even though I never knew him well enough to call him my friend, the news made me feel like I had been hit by an asteroid. Not Bachar. No way.
I had my brushes with him in passing like a lot of us. It was kinda like meeting your hero in a way, but of course that is a little silly. But impossible to ignore as a teenager. There were the others, of course, also pushing things. Kauk comes to mind. It was just a time and space when a number of qualities and personalities intersected in some weird nexus, and caused the standards to make one of those leaps that we see periodically.
He was human like the rest of us. I will miss just knowing that he is still around and breathing.
I give my sympathies to his son and all of you old farts who influenced me as a child and lost a friend.
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sully
Trad climber
CA
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Was outside Tuolumne Meadows store yesterday to find at the center of the bulletin board a John B. poster with "Bacher Lives RIP" on it. Around it were torn slips of paper from climbers seeking partners and gear. So fitting and cool.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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sully, if you or someone is at the store and can take and post a picture, that would be appreciated.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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I vividly remember when John first showed up at our little campfire out of the blue with this post:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=123220&msg=124316#msg124316
Prior to that he seemed to be a mythical figure, larger than life and unapproachable.
I never met him, but I got to know him a bit through his posts here and some e-mails.
I don't feel so bad for John himself, as he lived and died by the sword - he understood the risks better than anyone.
But it pains me greatly to think of his family and many friends he has left behind.
Hard to believe he's gone.
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Tahoe Bill
Trad climber
ca
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Im filled with dis belief, and sorrow !
JB has been a inspiration to me and the climbing community for a very long time. It started Way back as a freshman in highschool, when I had a rack full of stoppers and hexes and His poster of soloing outer limits proudly hung up on my bedroom room. Next was a NEW pair of Boreal Boots for x-mas, no more eb's for me! I had on the same shoes as my mentor, that's about as close as I came to climbing like JB!
Over the years it was a hi here and there, or a blank stare from ME as I watch him so gracefully float a hard route at the Cookie or elsewhere, which often times was beyond my leading ability!
He was also so COOL to all how watched, and always inspired me to climb up, to flow with the rock and the experience it was offering!
You my friend will be greatly missed
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Owlman
Trad climber
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I met John at Kern Slabs, above Lake Isabella, southern Sierra, a really long time ago...
I was young and a total newb. His climbing had inspired me more than anyone else in the climbing community at that time. So there I was, up on the slabs, soloing routes, ...and up the trail comes Bachar. He looked at my shoes (EBs) and said,
"hey, how's it going? you really should try MY SHOES, they have this crazy new rubber, I think you'll dig them".
So he took off his shoes and I put them on.
They were way too big for me. Huge. I could not even come close to filling them.
I looked like a cartoon character.
But I was determined to wear THE MAN'S shoes!
I couldn't believe how sticky they were and I felt like a spider.
So he and I bouldered around the base of the wall, then moved down to the lower valley along the Kern River and bouldered together...taking turns wearing his shoes.
He was so cool to me...just as you hope your mentors will be, but really rarely do they live up to it all.
Well, my stoke has lasted for over 30 years. I turned 50 this year. I'm still like that young man he met, still fired up to climb. Grabbing each day as it comes, and driving my truck like I stole it.
Thanks John for being so good to me just when I needed it.
I can see you loaning your shoes and getting people stoked in that place out there where I can't yet follow.
Rest in peace. My heart aches for his family.
-willey
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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I already wrote a message with my personal feelings earlier. I just wanted to report that John's passing has had a big effect on the climbing community here in Spain, especially among the people around his age. Some of them knew him from his Boreal connection. He really had a big effect on climbing in Europe, getting people to quit pulling on gear and to try to climb free. Here in Spain people have the route Chasin' the Trane in Frankenjura as a reference.
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Jorge
climber
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I'm very saddened to hear of John's death. Damn, but living life is dangerous! and yet he was particularly good at living life. I know nothing of his family but can only imagine their pain. They have my heartfelt sympathy.
George Meyers
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Stephanie Bussell
Sport climber
Bishop Ca
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Remembering John
The Climbing; Yosemite, JT, Dexter Canyon, The Gorge, Mammoth
FA's, Bouldering, Bolt chopping and speed lowering
The Saxaphone: Funk, Rap and Jazz
The Crazy Car Rides: thru Yosemite, the back raods of JT, dirt roads of the east side, the hill @ Deadmans 3
Encouraging me to be a nurse, just like his brother, how I hated those math problems
The Wooding, Bachar Style, giant pinons crashing to the ground
The Cleaning: Foresta, Joshua Tree and Mammoth
Babysitting Tyrus as a small boy, seeing him now as a talented young man, so much like his dad
All those other girlfriends, so many heartaches
He Was and Always Will Be, The Love of My Life
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Condolences to all John's friends and family.
John- Thanks for all that you have provided for us to enjoy. You, your climbs, your style, music, adventure, stories... will be missed. The history you have left behind will last forever... All the best in the your life ahead!
Cheers! Brian
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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"hey, how's it going? you really should try MY SHOES, they have this crazy new rubber, I think you'll dig them".
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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As the English Romantic poet Shelley wrote in his elegy on the death of John Keats:
"Die if thou would be with what thou seekest:
Life like a dome of many coloured glass
Stains the white radiance of eternity"
Like John Keats, John Bachar was the spirit of the age.
We all lived in Bachar's shadow.
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shut up and pull
climber
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Three days to reflect on John's death. Still stunned and depressed. A true artist has been lost. He did so well what others did groveling.
Wish he was still here. Damn.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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shutupandpull...."still stunned and depressed"......yeah !
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Someone just left a music message on my answering machine, couldn't place it but i think it was a Miles davis' track. Trane would have been more fitting but i'll take Davis.
Thanks, whoever it was that left it, (Russell, Keith , or Prunes, maybe) Put a smile on my face thats for sure.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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That's a great post Scott.
Some of the very things that make a man great can also make him seem difficult.
Bachar is like a classic mountain, steep on all sides. Potentially challenging to approach, you have to come to the mountain.
I respect that, but also deeply appreciate in recent years, John became more assessable and helpful to more than the Elite. His utter concern and Love for Tyrus was notable and his remarks about relationships were so sincere and full of Good faith.
Being more human is just as tall as being a better climber.
Doing so when you are a Titan and Legend, just makes it a grander feat.
Peace
Karl
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thank you to everyone for the stories, photos and memories. It helps. I've been working on a story, but it's not ready yet.
The New York Times is carrying an obituary of John tomorrow.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/09/sports/09bachar.html?hpw
The Associated Press, a world-wide news wire, also has something:
http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5jj4yj37U9DWYfLMh8iNpt2MokknAD99AL1G04
I've been following coverage of John's death in the news media. There are about 40 googlenews links so far, although not so many actual stories. A lot seem to be local and regional California papers picking up from what was in the Los Angeles Times. But it's pretty clear that to a greater or lesser extent the mainstream media is getting information about John and what happened from the threads on SuperTopo. That, and consideration for John's family, suggest that we should continue to take care as to what we say here, and how we say it.
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Amelia Rudolph
Trad climber
Kensington
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It was 1989 when at Low Profile Dome in Tuolumne a curly blonde super fit guy walked up with a small boom box and proceeded to solo every route around us almost as performance. I was especially interested in his elegance and strange footwork. He was standing on the tops of his toes, as a dancer would in point shoes. I asked him why he was doing that and he said it was because he was experimenting and of course because it was fun.
Over the years, though I did not know John well, I have been inspired by him and enjoyed talking with him-particularly about art and music. He was truly a legend and defined California climbing in so many ways. He will be missed. My condolences to Tyrus and to so many of his friends. -Amelia
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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i have no words.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Ghetto Blaster blaring.
If I have to put up with your rap bolting, then you're gonna have to put up with my rap music.
Nothing better than when John called out for more funk.
Get funky bro.
The King is Dead.
Long live the King.
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NewtMan
Trad climber
Redondo Beach, CA
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Quite a blow to realize one of my heroes is gone. A year younger than John, I grew up climbing at Stoney Point and remember the inspiring influence he had on many of us. My thoughts and prayers are with him and his family.
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crackedribs
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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My thoughts are with your family. One of the most inspirational climbers ever to grace the lifestyle.
Peace
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Frickers
Big Wall climber
Westchester, CA
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When my husband came home from the gym and told me of the loss we were both super sad.
John is and was one of the few people I had known about from the climbing world before I met my husband. I began rock-climbing at the Westchester YMCA. I kept it up for a while going to Stoney Point if and when I could find a ride. I was always impressed with the handsome blond guy who would climb without ropes. They called him Spiderman. I did not know then that he was a Westchester local. When I went to collage at UCSC we climbed C dorm at Merrill Collage for lack of better local climbing. It wasn't until I met and married Ki Bum Lee (a Stone masters influenced, Yosemite diehard big wall climber from Korea) 8 years ago, that my brother-in-law told me John Bachar went to Westchester High with him. He played tennis with John's brother. He remembers watching when John decided to free solo the JC Penny building in Westchester. Creating a commotion both with police and fire. I couldn't feel more proud that such a huge climbing persona had been a local boy. On July 4th they had the local hometown Parade and they mentioned the 1960s band the Turtles from Westchester High, and I thought yea… but what about John Bachar.
My husband and I got a chance to meet him and talk with him a couple of years ago after a slide show at Santa Monica REI. Shortly after the car accident. I think the audience all knew each other. Proving that no matter how big L.A. is, or any other town, or the world, the climbing community is in some ways intimate. After the slide show he was very relaxed and friendly…( we were at home). He was and will always be one of US. We will keep your memory alive but your presence will be sorely missed!
Heart felt condolences to family and friends!
Lynne & kibum
http://www.koreanclimbingclub.com/gallery/content.asp?name=gallery&id=428
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Ray-J
Social climber
cali
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I'm completely shattered...
Wonder if JB knew how much people loved him?
God this is unreal...
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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I’m saddened by the news. Condolences to his son and family.
To those of us that knew him, the memories of the time we spent with John will live on. He was naturally gifted, with superstar athleticism, and for a period in his life of over a decade, was, in my book, the best rock climber in the world. He trained harder than anyone. He dedicated himself wholly to the sport. No one had smoother or purer technique. He was the one to emulate. He had a great sense of humor, sharp intellect, and a musical soul.
He was a gifted teacher, and taught many the fine points of technique. You could learn great lessons just by watching him climb, or by tying into the same rope with him.
To those that never met him, the tales of his climbs will become the stuff of legend, and he will reside in the pantheon of the greatest of all time. His flame burned brighter and more intensely than the rest of us, but was extinguished, sadly, all too soon. May God be with him.
Rest in peace, John.
Bob Gaines
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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jstan
climber
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Ray J raises the point I think we all need to take away from this.
"Wonder if JB knew how much people loved him?"
It never even occurred to him, nor did it to us.
As Joni Mitchell said, "You don't know what you got till it's gone."
But it goes far deeper than this. We Americans have the most annoying
habit of thinking only in terms of "more" and "most." This is a very serious
weakness.
We are like a piece of cloth. Every thread counts. Break one and sooner or later
it will all be lost. It is this which limits what the climbing community can
achieve.
We have the training, the courage, and the desire to do anything and
everything.
But our choice to think this way limits us to 5.1.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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"Wonder if JB knew how much people loved him?"
John was well aware of the respect and position he held in the climbing community.
"Love" is trickier since we don't always know how to give, receive or recognize it. We have complicated relationships with "Love"
That's where I think Tyrus and John's relationship was a blessing. Exploring Love close up and then sharing with the community.
PEace
Karl
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KJM
Social climber
Memphis
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And to think, On Sunday I picked up Largo's book, Jungle Monsoon, after year's on the shelf and read "The Only Blashphemy" about a day of soloing with Bachar.
Bachar was one of my heroes during my short climbing career - and while I never followed his handholds into a serious climbing career, his and others' lust for life inspired me to chuck it all and spend a year mt biking through South America.
Thanks!
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EP
Social climber
Way Out There
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jstan got me thinking about warp and weft.
I noticed the words "love supreme' in the first line of this excerpt and found it very fitting:
But the love of the soul is love supreme. It is love in our spiritual essence and of our eternal belonging. In this deep love we ascend above our emotions – how we feel, what’s troubling us – and into the realm of mystical, non-material essence, the realm of the ecstatic.
For in our souls, we are all warp and weft of the one great seamless cloth, woven together of all that we have been, all that we shall be – our victories and majesties and sorrows, our tragedies and grand heroic moments. In the soul’s love we sense far within us, as if written in faint, faded ink on the ancient notebooks of our genes, that we have all been all things - both male and female, parent and child, abuser and abused, villager and king. To behold one another through this great encompassing love, love indivisible, love uncompromising, brilliant, radiant and immense, is to behold the whole of human history, the face of God, in a single human being’s eyes.
from Heart & Soul, by Daphne Rose Kingma (see works by Daphne Rose Kingma )
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climbactic
climber
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Seems like a portal has lately opened up in the cosmoplasm and many great souls are being drawn through it.
If it is as they say, "all in the mind" then Bachar was a true genius.
Saxophone and full moon in the Camp 4 parking lot.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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I met John in 1973 bouldering at Stony Point in LA. He was an arrogant, buck-toothed, skinny guy; obviously smart and motivated.
He and I were both in 10th grade, probably had not dated a girl yet, and were simultaneously jockeying for position in the climber hierarchy of southern California. We were then, quite competitive with each other and were both mentored by the likes of Long, Accomazzo, Graham, Shockley.
When several years forward things changed forever, Mike Graham read aloud to the cadre of us beach boulderers, John's handwritten letter describing his free solo of New Dimensions; everything changed forever.
It wasn't until John and I both found ourselves living in Camp Four that we began to find our commonality, exploring things far beyond how hard we (or what we) could climb. He and I often ate meals, bouldered and nurtured our injuries together. I discovered then, that John had a depth of emotion and intellect that was not evident on the surface (especially in that hyper-competitive realm.)
Though I know John dealt with his white/male torment (as many of us and especially climbers have), I watched him evolving in what I can only describe as a "spiritual" path.
As many have mentioned, John lived to the fullest (even up to his last moment), and taught us the importance of focusing on what we love, fighting the downward pull into mainstream mediocrity and remembering to seize the day.
JB will live forever in our culture and within us. Thanks for your gifts to all of us John.
Spencer Lennard
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Chute
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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I remember parties at John's house in Foresta before it burned down. Dancing with John when the Erratics played in the Valley. Looking up,up,up in the Owen's River Gorge at some crazy person soloing near the top...and then realizing "Oh, it's Bachar!"
Peace to Tyrus who is left with a heavy burden to bear.
Goodbye John.
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Yosemite Sue
climber
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I haven't communicated with any of you for a very long time. Once in a while I look at this board.
I just couldn't let Yano's passing go by....
Any of you that remember me, I want you to know that you are all very dear to my heart!
I have many photos of John that few of you have seen. Unfortunately they are all old slides. If I can get them converted to photos, I'll post them here. Mount Woodson, JT, Yosemite, etc. Some follow-the-leader free soloing Yano, Yabo, Mike and Mari, I don't know who else.
So many memories...
Way too many to put here.
Mostly, just watching him climb. Effortless, absolute grace, perfect strength perfectly applied. Dedication and mastery. He knew what he wanted to do and did it with complete singlemindedness.
I'm still in the Yosemite area, Oakhurst actually. If there's a memorial it would be great if someone could let me know when and where.
I'm too sad to figure out what to say.
Sue Moore
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huh
climber
anchorage
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Albert Einstein, Tiger Woods, Charles Darwin, John Bachar...
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Ray-J
Social climber
cali
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with Bachar,
Climbing was no longer a geek sport...
We had this guy, who was obviously a genius
Looking like a goddamn surf god,
Who could fukking climb without a rope,
Then blast hi-brow jazz on his sax at night
At enchanted desert digs...
That sax changed everything;
Hidden Valley was better,
So-cal climbing was better, too.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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the sun bright reflecting in the granite
your movements a smooth dance
climbing so high
you fall into memory
let me tell you one more time
you matter to us all
let me say one more time
I love you
now as I can’t sleep
trying to comprehend this loss
I feel you smile beyond my sight
Letting me know that one day we all shall fall
and you will be there to catch us
for love is eternal
it’s always here
We will see you again when it’s our time to fall
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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I had the pleasure of doing some soloing with John, Scott Cosgrove, and Dave Shultz last year the day of the Joshua Tree climber's reunion. It was a great experience with 3 great people that I will always treasure. I have known John for about 20 years now, and he had always been a hero to me since I started climbing. Far from being conceited about his unparalleled accomplishments, he always seemed very humble about them. I remember coming down from Sentinal rock one time (circa 1989) and seeing him, clad with a walkman I could hear clearly, casually soloing Bikini Whale. No fanfare, nobody taking pictures, or even watching. I reminded him of that recently and he couldn't even remember soloing it. Just another day on the rock for John... I doubt if it has been soloed by anyone since, or will be anytime soon. What John was obviously proud of though, was his son. It was great to watch the excitement in his eyes when he demonstrated some of the magic tricks he and his son were mastering together.
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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To go with Anastasia's poem...
Reed's Direct 1982
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Welsh Snowflake
Trad climber
Llanberis, UK
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To John - who will be reading this from the lofty ethereal clouds where all other climbers / mountaineers will eventually dwell and share their stories ...
I never met you, but you have been an iconic idol in my climbing career especially routes in Yosemite many moons ago.
Rest in peace, and remember that Jonathan Livingston Seagull aspired for more speed and was more motivated than the rest of his seagull clan. His life may have also been shorter than the rest, but he is also in the place you are resting in now with achievments that none can match.
Love and peace to your family.
Welsh SnowFlake
Snowdonia, Wales, UK.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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High Flight
Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth
And danced the skies on laughter-silvered wings;
Sunward I’ve climbed, and joined the tumbling mirth
of sun-split clouds, — and done a hundred things
You have not dreamed of—wheeled and soared and swung
High in the sunlit silence. Hov’ring there,
I’ve chased the shouting wind along, and flung
My eager craft through footless halls of air....
Up, up the long, delirious, burning blue
I’ve topped the wind-swept heights with easy grace
Where never lark nor even eagle flew—
And, while with silent lifting mind I’ve trod
The high untrespassed sanctity of space,
Put out my hand, and touched the face of God.
A sonnet written in 1941 by John Gillespie Magee, an officer in the RCAF, a few months before his death in a collision while training.
Although the poem relates to flying, it has many elements which could be about John.
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NigelSSI
Trad climber
BC
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I never talked to the man, but saw him in J-Tree a few years ago. I never said hello, but the circumstances meant that introducing myself was out of the question, being as I saw him at the base of lower right ski track upon rushing to aid a lead fall accident that brought a chopper... John was the last thought on my mind then, but he's the first right now.
The man continues to be an inspiration, and in the predominantly rap bolted sport area I call home, I'll continue to bolt ground up, and lead the chossy conglomerate cracks onsight, on gear before they can be bolted. Not only is it more pure, but it's MUCH more fun.
Thanks for the lessons from afar in respecting the rock, condolences to family, friends, and an entire community.
Nigel.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Corona del Mar, circa 1975.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I remember a story that a guy that looked kind of like a young a young Cosgrovel told me once.
Said guy had a rock fall on his hand almost severing a finger. He showed me it, maybe a year later, the extensor was history, but he could still pull with it.
" After the accident, I went to the meadows and hung out, drinking beer, day after day... One day John came up to me (at Tenaya Lake?) and said something like, "what are you going to do, sit here and swill? or get back into it?" Then we went to the sar site and worked out, then I got back into climbing."
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Irma Lagomarsino
Boulder climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:36am PT
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I had the supreme pleasure, with my family, to experience John's slide show 2 months ago here in Humboldt County (at Far North Climbing Gym). Inspiring and jaw dropping. John knew my x from the early 1980s, Yabo. When I asked about Nita (my roommate in Yosemite), he mentioned SuperTop. I went there that night, and saw the numerous posts of Yabo, which which warmed my heart, and connected with old friends. Thanks John. Respectfully, Irma
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L
climber
It's a big ol' Moon a talking to my heart now...
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:07am PT
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The photos on this thread are simply incredible...like John himself.
And what beautiful stories.
Thanks for herding all those links into one corral, Anders.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:38am PT
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Reading John's posts in the links and his resurrected threads is a bittersweet experience.
As one reads them, "listens" to what he is saying, and pictures him in the minds eye it all seems to be brought home even more forcefully. Yet in his words we can still catch glimpses of him.
(thanks MH)
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caroltee
climber
SF, CA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:39am PT
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Saludos desde la tierra John...
As you lived, so true to your vision, so you passed. Few can say that, and it's a pretty awe-inspiring thing. Thank you for reminding us to breathe poised at one's edge.
My most heartfelt condolences to Tyrus and Paola and all of John's nearest and dearest.
Carol Tonelli
Thanks for some great musical memories over the years
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:44am PT
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What loss, what sadness, wish for tears to wash away the grief. Cheers to a human being that not only fulfilled his giftedness, but was a real friend. Peace Always and to your loved ones.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:51am PT
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hey there mighty hiker... say, for the list of the "colletctions here".... will also come in very handy for his son...
thanks for the share...
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marko
Boulder climber
Simi Valley, CA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 04:31am PT
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At one point in the conversation John hung from a slopy slot with one hand about seventy feet off the deck. He never lost the rhythym of the conversation. This was where a lot of so called men would be crying for mama. He casually rotatated at the wrist for a couple of seconds, boned out, taking his time, telling Johnson and me about the Goats, a politically conscious band he dug, and how he had heard about the Swimming Hole.I had seen first hand over the years that the man had gifts, but every time you watched him do his magic it was as though you were alive to hear Coltrane play Giant Steps, or Love Supreme. The man moved like Ballachine with the power of Bruce Lee; only an idiot would'nt be slack jawed by the experience. The man was poetic in life and will be beyond,and his humble graceful movements over the terra will not go unnoticed. He found rhythyms in places only the boldest will ever dare to go, and he committed himself to that ethos completly. He dedicated his soul to the Earth long before he flew from mortals reaches. This was a man who sung a great song that will always ring in the coccles of my heart. Peace and Love Brother, from Marko and Terrill with Great Affection.
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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Jul 10, 2009 - 07:03am PT
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post bump to a great man, and to get rid of Onyx the A-hole.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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John, walked the walk. He always put the rock first, style was more important then success, and commitment was the price.
In soloing, there's no hangdogging, pulling past the crux, or yo-yoing when your tired, I'm thinking he just dyno-ed to heaven!
(from: Daily Readings from the life of Christ, by John MacArthur)
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papa_eos
Trad climber
conejo valley, california
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Jul 10, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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I met John a couple of times, once when he was bouldering with Michael Reardon at Malibu Creek. The last time was at the memorial service for Michael at Malibu Creek. John was an amazing fellow.
We were just over the mountain in Courtright Res. working on a new route at the time he passed on. The day was beautiful with the pollen in the breeze blowing by, I will remember that day.
In case anyone missed the obituary in the LA Times, which puts our sport as "obscure" I'll post it soon.
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Jul 10, 2009 - 12:35pm PT
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Pull yourself together Sprock!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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My Gallery of Climbing images that feature John is at
http://www.printroom.com/ViewGallery.asp?userid=karlb&gallery_id=74899
All my retail prints and swag are sold at printing and shipping cost. Typically I ask retail folks to contribute on a sliding scale via paypal according to their means and generousity. In this case, if anybody wants a print of John, I encourage them to get what they like and wait first to see if the family desires a memorial fund for Tyrus, and donate to that
Peace
Karl
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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is anybody thinking about a biography?
there are some pretty talented writers here.
i would like to throw up a web page with as many non protected pics as i can find, or is somebody else alr4ady workin on this?
or, if someone wants to write the html, i can host it.
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Big Guy
Boulder climber
PA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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I only had the privilege of seeing John Bachar climb twice, and only interacted with him three times in all.
He died yesterday in a fall, climbing I presume without ropes as usual, at the age of 52.
John Bachar was world reknown in the tightly knit climbing community for climbing routes without ropes that most people wouldn't be able to complete even with ropes.
We call it free soloing.
I saw him climb the first time in Red Rocks Nevada with my former wife and a good friend and fellow climber.
He was doing a photo shoot of a climb called The Gift, which is rated 5.12.
For non-climbers, the five tells you that normal people will want a rope to catch them if they fall, and the 12 is on a scale from 1-15 to tell you how hard it is within that context of roped climbing.
Only professional climbers climb things harder than 5.12, and only very talented athletes can climb even at the 5.12 level on a consistent basis.
Very few people would even contemplate climbing a 5.12 without a rope.
Watching Bachar climb The Gift, again a 5.12, was simply awe-inspiring, because his technique was so flawless.
He made zero errors.
Maybe that is why he liked climbing without ropes, because you cannot make errors, or you die.
To people outside the world of climbing, Bachar's art, free soloing, has always seemed evidence of madness; even a lot of climbers debate about that.
I met Bachar, and he was not crazy in the slightest.
The second interaction with John Bachar was indirect.
I had broken my leg, climbing unroped, but not on something one would call a free solo, because it was not tall enough to generate the rational expectation that a fall would generate your death.
John Bachar was at the gym I climbed at, so my former wife went there to see if I could get an autograph; I was kind of down at the time, and needed some inspiration.
Bridget brought a poster I had of Bachar free-soloing some hideous 5.13, and waited patiently in line for Mr. Bachar.
She told him my story, and would later tell me that she could see a very quick, if somewhat cocky, minds' wheels turning.
He then wrote:
"Don, always climb with a rope. John Bachar."
I always heard that he had a wry sense of humor, and not bad advice, after all, I fell.
The last time I saw John Bachar was in 1994.
I had returned to climbing, and he was in the same gym with me as in the poster episode.
When he walked up to the climbing wall, a buzz developed among my fellow climbers as we all silently realized that we were being graced by the presence of a climbing god.
You could see a small smile curl at the edges of his lips, as he gracioulsy shook everyone's hand and said,
"Hi, my name is John. Mind if I jump on this rope here?"
You can't climb unroped in the gym, insurance rules and all.
He then proceeded to put on the single most impressive climbing demonstration that I have ever seen.
Up fifty feet, down fifty feet, up fifty feet, down fifty feet, and on and on with no breaks, and on nothing easier than the 5.11's that I could barely do on my very best day, and Bachar did it all without a flaw.
It was beautiful to watch.
He was the real deal, the man, every bit as good an athlete in his field as Federer is at tennis, and on a lot harder road to fame, because there is no fortune in climbing.
At least in tennis, you can make good money.
In climbing, you can get some equipment deals and such, but money is always tight compared to your companions, especially as you grow older.
It is not easy being a 52 year old professional climber, like Bachar was when he died, especially because a lot of the people less committed to the art have quit long ago for more conventional pursuits.
I don't know what motivated John Bachar to pursue his passion for free soloing to the outer bounds of what is humanly possible, being willing at times to be homeless to do so, just camped in a truck or tent on the floor of Yosemite Valley.
I do know that in my experience, he was a kind, funny, gracious man, and I wish all his friends the very best at this time of loss.
rest in peace stonemaster
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
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We here on Supertopo need to hear from the Golden Age climbers from the 50s and 60’s.
From what I can tell, wonderful John Gill has been the only one among them to tie on here. And John Stannard too. I would include Richie Goldstone but he isn't old enough yet (g).
There are plenty of these older guys left; they aren’t all dead. And they are fully aware of what John Bachar meant to climbing. For God’s sake many of us younger climbers have been to their memorials and do certainly still look towards these men as partners. There is no justification for their highly conspicuous absence, their laughable "eminence grise".
We need to have them speak to our community now, join in our collective pain and worldwide loss here. We have come upon a milestone, not a good one, and we ALL have to speak at this time.
Peter Haan
San Francisco
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Evel
Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
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Jul 10, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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Wow. Got the news while in Eldo yesterday. What a Crapper.
John you were THE Inspiration. Standard Bearer for us all.
Tyrus your Pop was the Man. I'm deeply sorry for your loss.
RIP Jonny Rock
Eric Mix
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Jul 10, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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I'll second Peter's motion toward Father Figures.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jul 10, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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John and I had different specialties in climbing, but for more than thirty years, just knowing he was somewhere doing his inspired dance was one of the things that gave me strength to follow my own vision. John and I bouldered only one day together and roped up only twice, but that was enough for me to know him as a climber and person.
Over the years we'd see each other at trade shows, etc and always take a moment or more to chat. There was always good humor but I never saw any of the brashness or arrogance some people spoke of. Seldom was the conversation directly about climbing, except maybe tangentially. Usually, we teasingly discussed things of a more cosmic or philosophic nature. One gem of wisdom he left me with, twenty five years ago, was this: "Death is a gift." It was a parting statement-he didn't have to elaborate-he knew that I knew exactly what he meant.
I was really happy to be able to present John with a lifetime achievement award last year at an event here in Ogden. Two hundred and fifty people immediately rose at their dinner tables to give him a thunderous ovation.
The man has passed, but his spirit lives on.
-Jello
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jul 10, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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Correction, John was Paola's soulmate.
Yes, he was greatly loved by his family and friends.
I was his friend.
AF
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mrusinas
Trad climber
long beach, ca
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Jul 10, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
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I did not know John Bacher personally but I did know of his expolits (how could you not as a climber) John’s climbing inspired me to be a better climber, he was the pinnacle of what could be.
The first time I heard about Bachar was on my first climb, I was out at JT taking a first time class with Vertical Adventures in the early 80’s and John Long was out that day teaching or maybe just showing up for laughs, I don’t really remember but what I do remember is after the class John Long taking me off by myself over to some boulders outside of HV campgroud and showing me some boulder problems his friend John Bachar put up and we bouldered a bit (how cool is that). After I started climbing I realized how lucky I was to have John Long as a teacher and showing me Bachar problems on my first day!
Fast forward years later and I have not climbed in years but recently my wife has gotten into gym climbing so I wanted her to have some lessons on real rock so we are are out at Idylwild taking a class with Vertical Adventures again and the climber who put up the route we are on comes by and tells us JB just passed away from a climbing accident. I was stunned here I am out in the rocks after a long absence and the first thing I hear is JB passed…anyways so sad and it brings back many memories, of the rocks and trying to be a better climber inspired by what JB had done...just wanted to share.
"We must assume our existence as broadly as we in any way can; everything, even the unheard-of, must be possible in it”.
Rainer Maria Rilke
“Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away”
Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Bachar made the unheard of possible and his climbing was perfection
Peace to all
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jul 10, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
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I just got off a two week camping trip with my family, away from any news, and my computer. I came home to this news, and I'm absolutely stunned and saddened. What a great guy John was, and what a huge loss to the world--and the climbing community in particular. My deepest condolences to his son and family. I'm really having trouble wrapping my mind around this.
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dtitus
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Jul 10, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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I didn't know John very well, but I used to see him often out at the baseball fields at Shady Rest Park pitching to his son Tyrus. He loved his son. I'll miss that about him.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
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Jul 10, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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Unlike many of you here I’ve never met Mr. Bachar. Having only started climbing a mere 6 years ago, my experiences on the rock are far fewer in number than most of yours. But I remember the first time I heard OF John Bachar. After a long day of climbing in the Gunks, I was asking my friend and mentor questions about the boldest and best rock routes established to date. I remember he told me of a route called the Bachar-Yerian: a gnarly 5.11 with the potential for 80 foot wingers! Established ground-up, the route maintained a traditional style in the face of intimidating difficulty. To someone who would almost poop his britches leading 5.8, this sounded IMPOSSIBLE! Now, after a couple years of climbing in CA, the image and legacy of the legendary John Bachar loom as large as ever in my mind. His style and ethics have been a constant inspiration to me and will always remain so.
I’m sorry he won’t get to continue his craft; I’m sorry I’ll never meet him out at the crags, although I’ve always hoped I would; I’m sorry that such an inspiring individual has passed. But mostly my heart is filled with so much sadness for those of you who are his family and friends. Mr. Bachar sounds like he was not just a great climber, but a great person and a great father as well. I offer my sincerest condolences and deepest sympathies.
Nick
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
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Maybe you could compare Bachar to Coltrane:
They did not invent their game
There were others before them and other after BUT:
They were visionaries who showed the world new directions.
Every one on the scene after were compared to them as they set maybe the ultimate standard.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
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You can be a "somebody" in a lot of different areas in life.
Race Car Driver, Football Player, whatever.
But to be a "somebody" in the rock climbing world, well, that is rare indeed.
We got some people still, sharma, potter, hans, the hubers, still a lot of badass climbers out there.
rock on.
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Mark Rodell
Trad climber
Bangkok
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
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The university I work at here in Bangkok is holding an international saxophone congress. Hundreds of players are roaming around the campus, playing concerts and playing in informal sessions around the lakes, in groves of bamboo and pine. It started on July 7th and ends tomorrow. I've been listening, and often I walk up to the players and talk to them about John. I tell them of his talents and of how he played in nature. One player from England climbs and knew of John but not that he was a sax-man. I will go again this afternoon, light some incence and seek out more players and tell of John.
I met John in the seventies, never did a route with him but we talked, and hung out some. He had focus and that I will always respect. My heart goes out to all those who love him, family and friends.
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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In 1971 Steve Wunsch and I did the first free ascent of New Dimensions, which turned out to be one of the many ‘first-5.11-done-in-Yosemite’ routes. That was the same year that John started climbing, at the age of 14. Steve and I scratched and clawed our way up the last pitch. As I reached the top, the very first thought that crossed my mind was “Someday some one will free solo this thing.” I am sure I had other thoughts about the route when I reached the top, but that is the one that has stuck with me over the years.
I spent many wonderful hours bouldering in Camp 4 and Tuolumne with John. He was always encouraging when I flailed away on one of his latest problems and kind to me when I managed to struggle up something he’d done. John was a true visionary. He single-mindedly dedicated himself to whatever training routine he had at the time. He worked constantly to improve his strength and technique.
I was with John the first time he did Midnight Lightning. I had done an easy route on the west side of Columbia Boulder and was walking to the top to climb down the tree on the north side. When I arrived at the top, John’s head popped into view; with a huge grin on his face he looked over at me and said “Bates, man I did it.” I will always remember John for that smile, his vision and the way he showed us all what climbing can be.
When someone told me that John had soloed New D I remember thinking, “Of course, who else would it be?”
I will miss him
Barry
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Garcia
climber
PG
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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Love to you brother Bachar and to the loved ones you left behind.
Peace,
Phyllis
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yosemitemtb
Social climber
Mariposa
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
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wow. what a thread. I didn't know John very well, mostly just exchanges of pleasantries as he bought groceries at my register in the TM store back in the day. To my many friends who knew him well, Bea and I send our prayers and deepest condolences.
Jerry and Bea Kell
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
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"The best" is always transient, but Bachar established himself as something truly enduring - he was and will forever be free climbing and free soloing icon.
Bachar could accurately be described as the Michael Jordan of climbing, an inspiration world-wide.
We will remain forever in his debt.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
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The way I think of it is that for a brief few years, Michael Jordan got to be the John Bachar of Basketball.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jul 11, 2009 - 12:18am PT
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I'm a relative climbing noob but still feel greatly affected by this accident.
Condolences to his family, friends and those impacted by his life.
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dfrost7
Social climber
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Jul 11, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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It still hasn't sunk in. I can't imagine how his family feels. I will be keeping them in my prayers for some time to come, his girlfriend, and those who love him, too.
John was always very kind to me. Worked on ads and things with him a long time ago. He had a very different, very funny sense of humor.
I remember the first time I met him at his home with Brenda. I had never, ever, seen anyone with such intense focus in his eyes. It amazed me. I figured it came from doing a thing extremely well, and having such deep confidence in what he could do.
After an Outdoor Retailer in Reno, we were all some place where there was dancing. The band was on a break, and a James Brown song came on, "I feel good, I knew that I would". John grabbed my upper arm and yanked me on the dance floor to bust out his best James Brown - Dancing in these tan boots like James. I had met this guy there who said he was playing with Maceo in Reno. Off we all went. He sure loved his music.
He was a fine artist and craftsman of his rock. I am so sorry he is gone. I do believe in God and that He knows our time. May John be joyfully in His presence.
Condolences to his family and everyone.
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jwalseth
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 12:37am PT
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I am John Bachar's age, and had some of the greatest experiences of my life in Joshua Tree, in that time when John was a young god, and I was a young man. Over the decades we passed a few words, and I climbed (or looked at with awe) a number of his routes; but he certainly would not have known me. I share the view that he was an exceptional artist, who inspired thousands of people to imagine what they might accomplish. However one cannot deny that he left a son without his father. I offer the following condolence.
"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than exposure." - Helen Keller (1880 - 1968)
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:28am PT
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Thats the real JB cozzy! Lucky guy you were.
Love hearin' those stories.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:44am PT
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coz an chez....that's what he's done for me and my family since Dan died......friendship, so many offers of help and advice.... shoes for the grandkid. John Bachar walked the walk.
Not one of us humans do it all right in our lives, but jb lived a rich life in the fact he cared about his vision of climbing and people. I correct myself, lots care, few take the time to Do. JB took action on both fronts, climbing and people. lynne
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:55am PT
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I knew it was true Scott, I'll never forget listening to you tell me that story. I was just, sort of, trying to leave you some annonnymity..... not like that really matters, I guess.
Cheers, I'll look for you in Josh this winter.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 11, 2009 - 02:22am PT
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It looks like ABC news is going to run something on John for the evening news on Saturday, july 11th.
Just a head's up
Peace
karl
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 11, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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it still hurts.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 11, 2009 - 02:56am PT
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Karl, maybe you could send us a link....I have no tv, at all. Peace, Lynne
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jul 11, 2009 - 03:02am PT
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I first climbed with John Bachar at Reed's Pinnacle in Yosemite in 1983. Mark Jacobs and I were doing a route called "Old 5.10" at the same time JB was soloing "Lunatic Fringe" just to our right. After John came down he asked us if we would give him a TR on Old 5.10 before we pulled our rope down, because he had never done the route before.
Naturally, he floated the thing like it was "Old 5.6" and we then spent a few minutes discussing these new gray shoes he was wearing with a red dot on the side. After he informed us that these new Spanish-made "Fire" climbing shoes made everything else seem like climbing in roller skates, I ordered two pair of them. Those were the good old days.
RIP, John.
Curt
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 11, 2009 - 03:13am PT
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if somone could tape or link that aBC deal that ould be good i will not be near a TV.
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hot pool junkie
Sport climber
flagstaff AZ
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Jul 11, 2009 - 03:15am PT
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Here is a Native American prayer which was printed in the Mammoth Times many years ago:
I give you this thought to keep - I am with you still - I do not sleep.
I am a thousand winds that blow, I am the diamond glints on snow.
I am the sunlight on ripened grain, I am the gentle autumn rain.
When you awaken in the morning's hush, I am the swift uplifting rush.
Of quiet birds in circles flight, I am the soft stars that shine at night.
Do not think of me as gone, I am with you still -- in each new dawn.
Blessings on you John - you were authentic to the core.
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 03:53am PT
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I’ve been very deeply troubled about John Bachar’s passing. I barely knew him. I saw him frequently when I lived in the park, and hung out around him at times. People here may know I am almost not a climber at all; I just have always loved the mountains and mountaineering culture. Then why has John’s passing hung as the big picture in my thoughts every day since it happened, even amidst several seriously huge life-changing events going on for me right now? A reason is starting to emerge.
John was pure at what he did. He defined this to himself and lived up to his own super-high standards. It turns out that for years, this has re-circulated in me over and over without me really paying much attention to it. Over time, I developed my personal beliefs why he did what he did, and what his thoughts were when he climbed. I sense a few others may feel similarly. But like the Leonardo de Vinci of climbing, John’s Mona Lisa was much more than just a really good painting. So much more.
Throughout this and other threads and places, people from all over have stepped forward with the very kindest of words, the highest of praise, the deepest sorrow, and the witnesses to his devotion and love he had for his son. And, friends and people throughout the west who knew him, saw him, bumped into him, climbed with him, heard stories about him, heard him play his music, partied with him, and fell in love with him. These people all knew him as a real person. And then it seems people here and elsewhere are really hurting about this, and it doesn’t seem to be going away or simmering down as it might otherwise. That is the feeling I have and that’s the feeling I get.
It is easy to say someone was a legend. What I am seeing for the first time is his legend truly emerging in the real world. To me, this is more than ordinary grieving going on, this is the creation John’s real-life biography to be handed down and talked about for the ages. His fame goes so much further than promising to be enduring, his very persona, grace and humor will echo everywhere he passed forever. Everyone who is or who becomes a part of our culture will know who he was. It brings me happiness to know that he’ll be staying around for a very, very long time still.
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sherry
climber
santa clarita, ca
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Jul 11, 2009 - 10:46am PT
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One more Angel, to spread his wings,
To fly to the mountain top, As you reach for that brace ring,
One more Angel that can hear the mountain sing,
One more Angel to shine a light,
To keep you from the darkness of freight,
One more Angel that will reach for you when you fall,
One more Angel that loves you all!!!!!!!!!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 11, 2009 - 11:20am PT
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ABC nightly news tonight. 530 in the west I think
Don't have a tv myself (that's hook to anything)
Peace
Karl
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 11, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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Karl, do you have any friends with TIVO ?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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We get ABC here, via an affiliate (KOMO) in Seattle. The schedule shows that they have "KOMO News" from 5:00 - 7:00 PM today, with a segment from 5:30 - 6:00 called "World News". It sounds like the Seattle and Washington news is from 5:00 - 5:30 and 6:00 - 7:00, with the ABC national program from 5:30 - 6:00.
Possibly the ABC website provides a schedule? I hope to find a TV to see the program, but don't have the ability to tape it etc. If I remember from the 2007 FaceLift, they post these things to their websites after the program runs.
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Grant Meisenholder
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
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I have my computer hooked up to the glowbox. I'll see if I can grab the segment
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 11, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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GM, that would be awesome for us without tv.
Really Appreciate ! Hope it works.
lynne
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climberpoet
Trad climber
California Foothills
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Jul 11, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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The Stone Master
for John Bachar
some say he floated over stone
to me he was solid
each foot & finger placement
a lock as exact as precise
as a concert musician
never a wrong note
each move its own
masterpiece of concentration
nothing except what was needed
the economy of the body
moving over that sheer face
up a crack
playing each crystal
each note blown true
“I guess I think too much sometimes”
he wrote just one day before
there must have been a kind of quiet
that came to him when he was there
face to face with the rock
the only sound in his head
that long aching note that the wind blows
that quiet sound of rubber sticking to rock
letting him move with ease
and she sang her song for him
that goddess of the stone
that fascination
why he couldn’t let go
more than anything
the rock
the one place
where everything stilled
quieted
where that single focus
let the world drop away
under his feet
& from his mind’s chatter
& she called him to her
that last day
that sun day
he was going
to say goodbye
but she said it first
and after all those years
she let gravity
take him
~Laura Pendell
10 July 2009
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Jul 11, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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anyone who could tape the abc clip I would really appreciate it!
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BlueGuy84
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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I hope to see you on the stone in the future John. You are an inspiration to me and to many. God Bless!
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Enumclaw, WA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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HOW MANY OF THOSE CAN YOU DO??? How much time do you got?
One of my most memorable (funniest) climbing memories I have was when I crossed paths with John Bachar (Johnny Rock) in Joshua Tree National Park back in the mid-1980’s. Myself and two other climbing buddies were parked at the public parking lot of Real Hidden Valley and as one of my buddies was smoking weed out of a 3 foot purple bong, (nicknamed the purple slurple), all of the sudden, John walks by on his way to one of his “Half Dome” days (free soloing 2000 feet in one day) … with his chalk bag and shoes in hand. John curiously asked my buddy “How many of those (bongs) can you do??” and my friend replied “How much time do you got?” … and John, the master and purist he was said “Oh, I’d better not … but thanks anyway!” He then hiked off into the Real Hidden Valley. We saw him free-soloing “Leave it to Beaver, 5.11d - on the east face of Sports Challenge Rock” as we headed off to do our 5.10 for the day.
John was always the purist and I always aspired to be as smooth, strong, and pure as he. His mastery was probably best exemplified as he would boulder “Midnight Lightning“ at Yosemites Camp Four (Sunnyside Campground). I could only touch the famous “lighting” hold and Then I would bomb door off … but John … well you know! I will always hold fond memories of John. Godspeed, and we will miss you Johnny Rock!
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tyruss' uncle
climber
state of grief
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Jul 11, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
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thanks to all who have posted, called and thought of john. he was my only brother but i realize he had brothers and sisters all over the world. i always looked up to him. i just want to talk to him and ask him what to do when you lose your brother.i love you john
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Grant Meisenholder
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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I have the recording and am converting it to an iPod compatible file - about 12 MB if anyone wants it.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
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I was wondering if anyone was or could save the threads about John, and the attachments, and the links, in some reasonably permanent format? Can they be saved as screen shots or something, and eventually converted into a CD and given to John's family? There are many stories and photos here, that should be kept together in one place. I suppose they'll be in the bowels of the SuperTopo server, as long as it's running, but that seems a bit unreliable.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Jul 12, 2009 - 12:00am PT
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John as a soloist, all of us and the world knows. His bravery and skill was out standing. But with a rope on the things he did back in the day …. Blew all are minds!!!! For me Caliente at Suicide is the one route I will always remember him by forever.
Peace be with you Bro!
Bruce.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jul 12, 2009 - 02:03am PT
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hey, its been great reading all the post here. you know, a dozen years ago, i knew john as a totally bitter man. he was bummed that rap bolting had invaded tuolumne, and felt that with all the hard new sport lines, his prominence in climbing history had diminished. but after reading all the post here, and duane raleigh's excellent article on john in rock and ice last year, combined with my phone calls to john after his accident that were so positive, i have had two realizations been reinforced:
1) that john was still a hero to climbers of all generations, and that his legacy will never be forgotten on the face of climbing, and, probably more importantly that
2) John was Happy, and as somebody said, was in transition from a professional climber, to an adult man trying to make another future for himself, with his son as a focal point. i'm so glad that he knew so much joy in his last years on earth.
also, i have talked to people that saw john's slideshow over the past couple of years. there's really not much money in this market...i gave up trying to do slideshows a few years ago because of that reason.but he was out there, telling it like it was BITD, and, well,...he was still imparting ethics on a grass roots level. i think that is so beautiful. you people were so lucky to hear him speak. please spread the gospel of bachar to your peers.
finally, (at least for now) i've been talking with my old friends from the eighties that were around this vibrant time in tuolumne. these are the same guys that risked their own lives trying to repeat his horrorshows. i can tell you that we are all collectively pretty bummed out. john was the one that led us into a climbing style that emphasized mental control in the face of dangerous situations. we are, and will continue to be, his disciples. because of john, i always did my fa's in tuolumne from the ground up, and i thank him for that, they were among the richest adventures of my life. ciao, brother
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 12, 2009 - 03:38am PT
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tyruss' uncle....I emailed you and hope you got it. He knows you love him. He will talk and you will hear. I miss the very heck out of him too. I was sitting here thinking, "oh, sheee, no more planning and pushing the brain cells to make it happen and to just enjoy digging and creating and thinking new and unusual farout ideas...."
Sweet Jesus, your Bro was fun to scheme and plan with. Peace, Dude, it will come. Lynne
Edit: and CC don't get in your car or ride a bike or surf or scuba.....
I missed death twice this year by a very tiny, tiny hair from irresponsible humanoides.
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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Jul 12, 2009 - 03:50am PT
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I'm right there with you. John was 'the best climber ever'.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 12, 2009 - 04:31am PT
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Measured Risks....Surfing Waimea on a Big Day, Indianapolis 500, Peak climbing, and so much more.
We all know what we are capable of. Lance Armstrong could have died on any of his Tours pushing it. Athletes know what they can achieve and "things" can happen at any time.
So it's not a matter of right or wrong here imho....it's life.
My husband would much rather have died in sport than in a fricking hospital from a disease that was much worse than a fall. Maybe it's all a matter of opinion Corniss.
So Peace to you Friend, Lynne
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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Jul 12, 2009 - 04:56am PT
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Yes , peace. Go climb!
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Bruce Nyberg
Trad climber
Sheridan, Wyoming
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Jul 12, 2009 - 08:51am PT
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Peace be with you John. Bruce Nyberg
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morphus
Mountain climber
Angleland
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Jul 12, 2009 - 10:14am PT
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nice obituary by Ed Douglas:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2009/jul/10/john-bacher-rock-climber
"He took up the saxophone, buying his first instrument after a previous owner threatened to turn it into a bong, and would serenade climbers high on the big granite walls above Camp IV"
i like this anecdote from the UKC thread
"According to a friend of mine was doing some runout 5.7 up in the 'Meadows', out of sight from his belayer he started to hear saxophone music,looking up he saw some guy walking down the 'slab'crux towards him calmly playing his sax!It was Bachar...Fires(first sticky boots) had just come out-he was testing them out apparently."
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jstan
climber
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Jul 12, 2009 - 11:35am PT
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You have to wonder what John would have thought of some of this dialog. But
he, just as we, cannot heal all that which is torn and broken in the world. There
is much damage, surely.
Shipoopi's thoughtful comment tells us during the last few years, John had
come home. Ultimately, if one is to pay proper respect to the power and
creativity possessed by ourselves and our friends it must surface as a
dedication to helping youngsters make good decisions and keeping their world
as beautiful as it was when we first received it.
John performed this function, as we might have expected he would. Now it is
for us to move on and continue the work.
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Hesser
Trad climber
Squamish B.C.
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Jul 12, 2009 - 11:55am PT
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I have been really bummed since I first got the news. Had the chance of meeting him a only a handful of times. Watching him climb was very inspiring. I will never forget these encounters and how gracious and engaging he was. My condolences go out to his family and friends.
Mike
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
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Camp 4 in Yosemite was John’s home for many years. On a warm summer evening in 1978, the residents were engaged in the usual post-climbing activity: sneaking a shower at the employee dorms and hanging around the parking lot.
It occurred to me that this was a moment to remember, so I got my camera out of the car and cajoled everyone nearby into posing for this photo. It captures just a few of the Camp 4 cast of characters, but it has some of the stars from that era, including John and some of his close friends.
From the left, Dick Shockley, Jim Bridwell, Tobin Sorenson with his girlfriend Maria, Mike Lechlinski, Mike Graham, John Bachar, John Yablonski, and Karl Mueller.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 12, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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A wonderful photo - thanks, Rick!
When we were very young - only Bridwell looks like a "grown up".
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Mini
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 12, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
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Amazing assembly of talent & personality there.
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definitions
Sport climber
singapore
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Jul 12, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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you're an inspiration and an a True legend .. john
take care and climb on!
your avid climbing student - singapore
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Jul 12, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
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That photograph really is golden, Rick!
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Licky
Mountain climber
California
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Jul 12, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
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I just learned of the passing of John Bachar.
My heart felt condolences go out to John's family and friends.
During the past years as I do my research about the plane crash,
John has always been helpful with information as well as a source
for some great stories.
I make no attempt here to say that I knew him other than that of what
I learned from our phone conversations. The world could always
use a few more John Bachars. RIP
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Jul 12, 2009 - 04:52pm PT
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Having never met or even been replied to on this forum by JB I feel like a bit of an outsider posting this, but I saw his pictures, read about him and then read his posts here. When the whole Growing Up think-tank thread was going full bore I first realized that this JB was John Bachar! It was a thrill to me as a sort of Noob. I, like many others wish that I would have had a chance to meet him, but who he was to me made me a lot more conscious and aware of how my climbing can impact others- namely the ethics and style.
From a long way away, through the ethers, he made me want to do everything I do better, more responsibly. Actually that goes for quite a few of you all here. Just saying.
My sincerest condolences to those who lost a friend and a family member in him.
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Robinson
Trad climber
Chattanooga
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Jul 12, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
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This was a CD John put together for me while he was in hanging out w me in Chattanooga this last November. Some of his favorite songs. Maybe some of you who know him well will recognize a few of the tracks.
***
Like many of you who knew John ... I've had a million thoughts swirling around in my head since I first heard (on the morning of the 6th) about the accident. What went wrong?
John was still recovering from a terrible car accident ... he had permanent injuries from that. He told me on several occasions "I'm not the man I used to be." He was unable to rotate his neck (it had been fused), and as well had nerve damage in his left arm and hand. The ends of two of his fingers were numb. He could not feel holds with the tips. He had also had emergency surgery in summer of last year to have a ruptured appendix removed which he said had taken a lot of him. And finally, he had a ripped groin muscle that was still healing ... if he thought he might fall on something when leading he would back off because he was afraid it might rip again.
Although John was a wounded climbing lion, he was nonetheless a marvel, and a joy, to watch climb. Indeed, he climbed brilliantly while he was here: Totally solid...immaculate footwork...great flow control.
I haven't seen anyone post what route he was on, but I imagine it was something he had done many times before, that wasn't too difficult (a 5.8, 5.9 or easy 10), and that he had wired. I hope we will find out in time.
Regardless of what route he was on, whatever happened on the 5th ... I think it had to be his body suddenly and unexpectedly giving out on him. Perhaps we can take some solace in that?
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 12, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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I know each generation has it's own heros, and the next builds off of them, but if I could build my own Mt. Yosemite (Rushmore)
It would include, Jim Bridwell, John Bachar, Ron Kauk,*(Lynn Hill), Peter Croft, and Steve Schneider(oop's that's five). On the tour bus, Werner would be are tour guide, John Long would be clipping tickets(so you better have one), Mike Lechlinski, John Yablonski,*Lynn Hill(on second thought I'd have to put her between Kauk and Croft), and the StoneMasters would be throwing stuff at them, and Erik Eriksson would be the park bum with a sign that said "Will climb for food!"
BUT WHAT A GENERATION! I love ya man!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 12, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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New York TImes obit: http://www.deuce4.net/web/Bachar_Obit_NYT_July9-09.pdf
Same day the Times ran an article about Coltrane. John would have like that.
BTW, my impressions of John regarding his perception of his role in climbing were a bit different than some of the other first hand views expressed here. Of course he didn't like the way climbing changed in the late 80's, but I wouldn't say it affected his happiness. Rather, he always seemed to have a good sense of humor regarding the new trends, and always of course without compromising his own beliefs one iota.
It was a time where it was difficult for many climbers not to have bitter feelings about the way climbing changed, especially if one had put a lot of time and energy into perfecting the bolder ground-up style of climbing. John was one of the few that did not let the changing mainstream affect his own spirit towards climbing.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Jul 12, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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Another great leader of our tribe gone.
This picture from up thread a bit, blows my mind.
Why don't you look a little more relaxed, huh?
RIP.
Peace.
Climb On.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jul 13, 2009 - 12:23am PT
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I've been on a road trip and away from cyberspace until tonight...
I can't imagine what life is going to be like without my dear friend John. For over 30 years now he has been an amazing fountain of positive energy and support. I cannot remember ever having anything but a good time with him.
I spoke with him on the phone a week or so before his fall. As I talked about the plan for the Diamond I have for next week with a couple of other incredible friends, he reminded me, twice, to be on top of my game, super safe, and let him now how it went when I got home.
If only I could make that call...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 13, 2009 - 12:39am PT
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It's awesome reading the stories, tributes and comments plus enjoying the heck out of all the special pics so many have posted.
Arriving late on the scene I really knew John B. more as a human than the incredible climber. Quick wit, sense of humor that often took a variety of twists and turns, talented writer, a person looking for insight and answers to the many topics that both interested and challenged him he also made time to encourage the many people in his life. JB wanted nothing but the best for his family. (He did get a little tense when he was cold....Josh reunion 2008 hehehe :DD)
It was a gift in my life (after Dan died) to watch as JB prepared to push the boundaries in his new directions and life goals as he did with his climbing. Both John and Dan had great brains and I will sorely miss watching them challenge themselves and others as they lived their lives on the Large......
Working with JB I had a pretty signigicant fear of failure and told him so. He was so cool to say, "just go for it and whatever happens, it's cool and I appreciate what you're doing." It was evolving, slowly, even in this "sick" economy. There is no doubt John would have achieved the very best in all of his new endeavours.
With much respect to his family and so thinking about you all today, lynne
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 13, 2009 - 01:34am PT
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The picture that Abe re-posted, of John soloing the last pitch of New Dimensions. He told me he was grumpy because the photographer (no names need be mentioned) had just dislodged some lichen which landed in John's eye.
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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Jul 13, 2009 - 02:43am PT
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You know I think you're right. I had completely forgotten about that.
Phil
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:23am PT
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I was talking to Skip Guerin today. Planning a fall trip.
When he was in the valley with John in the good old (crazy) days he said they'd play "follow the leader." Can't imagine that level of fun.
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Quigg
Trad climber
Sebastopol, formerly Mammoth
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:50am PT
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Wow, I am still in shock after a friend in Mammoth gave me the news. Even if I hadn't seen him in a while, if I called up, it was like no time had passed.
I have nothing but good memories of John. I never knew John the rockstar, I always avoided all that, I just knew my friend John.
I have so many fond memories of smoking, drinking Sierra Nevada, and playing music together in his garage studio we built together. Even as a musician John was way ahead of me, he had the flow and beauty of Coletrane, and the crazy dark genius of Miles. John would turn me on to some insane funk and jazz that I had never heard of, from his massive collection, laugh at me, and tell me I had no rhythm and played like a typical white guy.
I remember trying to beat him playing speed chess, and if I won, I knew I had done something special. When my car was stuck in the snow at 3:00AM, John was the only person that I knew wouldn't hang up on me. We must have broke about a half dozen biners trying to get my old Saab unstuck, and John just laughed, and said something about how he wasn't going to use that brand anymore if they broke that easy.
Tyrus, I'm so sorry for you, you probably don't remember me because I left town when you were still very young, but I remember when your mom brought you home from the hospital, and I remember how excited your dad was to have a son. I know how much your dad loved you, which was immensly.
Val, I'm so sorry your son no longer has a father.
Yerian, I know what John meant to you, and I share your pain bro.
Wow, I can go on and on right now because of my emotions, so I'd best not.
John, even though I haven't seen you as much as I would have liked in the last few years, you were never far from my thoughts. You always treated me with respect, and like I was somebody special, even though I am not. In so many ways, you were one of my very few great friends in life. I just can't believe you are gone, you were always so careful, you never made mistakes, you were supposed to live to be an old man. I miss you so much already, and I'll never forget you, because on top of everything else, you were truly a good hearted person. Tell everybody up there hello, and I'll see you in 50 years or so...
Todd Quigley
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quasitrad
Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:02am PT
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I just found out (in New Zealand). My profound sympathy for his family and friends.
Someone posted that if feels like the day the music died and I have a similar feeling. John Bachar was a titan of his generation and a talent that seemed inextinguishable. Bachar, Kauk, Lynn Hill led the way for our generation.
I didn't know him but ran into him at various areas. It always seemed like he was just carrying shoes and a chalk bag while I carried as much gear as would fit in my pack.
The first time I did Catchy with my friend in the late 70's we were at the belay ledge above and watched Bachar free solo it. We didn't dare move or re-rack the gear with the fear that we might drop something on the Bachar. He didn't say anything to us until he reached the crux where he spent several minutes chalking an rechalking - probably trying to remove the sweat and blood we had just left on the rock. Anyway, he asked us if he could pass through and proceed up Catchy Corner. It was a nice courtesy made that much more appreciated by the fact that if he had watched us climb the first pitch (as he almost surely did) he would have known full well that there was no way in hell we were going to do the second.
Cheers to a man with the conviction to pursue his dreams. Sadness that is had to end.
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hook
Trad climber
Hailey, Idaho
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Jul 13, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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It's been a long time since my annual trips to the Valley. I was always struck by the colorful characters I met and became friends with, many like Millis and Bardini who've already passed. But one memory I have burned in my mind was of John with sporty hat and red blinking sunglasses pulling up in front of a window at the bar one night on his stingray bike and glassing the people inside with those electric red eyes! He'll always be part of my Yosemite memories.
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Dan Christopherson
Trad climber
Orem, UT
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Jul 13, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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I was able to see John for the first time a few months back at a very inspiring slide show. I am very sad to hear of the accident.
Thanks John for the inspiration!!!
To his son, at his presentation when asked what his greatest accomplishment was, he spoke of you.
Deepest condolences to his family and friends.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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I was looking through some old e-mails, and sadly I'd deleteed most of the ones I'd recieved from John. I'd sent John a dvd of a segment of him soloing Oz in Tuolumne Meadows, here was his response after watching the segment:
"I just got the DVD...it turned out great. I just watched it and my hands are still sweaty. Damn, I did that OZ with Lonnie Kauk two summers ago (with ropes) and I can't believe I used to solo that thing all the time. That damn face traverse on the second pitch is balls out even though it;s only 10b/c."
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 13, 2009 - 09:26pm PT
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Cragman, So Much Agree. The Dude who was always about "Cheers" even when life rang tough was indeed all about People, helping and caring. He indeed walked the walk. lynne
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Deb Burton
climber
Dyer Nevada
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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In case no one knew the climber reunion is this weekend. It might be a great time for us to get together to celebrate John's life. He liked comming,thrashing in the woods with his old climbing buddies. He would even serenade us on his sax. It is held at Obsidian Flat group camp. Those that have been can pass on directions. If you need directions let me know. You can also reach me via email @ dandhburton@yahoo.com.Those of you that have wondered where Hugh is can reach us at that address as well.Just for the record he is living in Nev and currently working in Mammoth, not in so cal as some thought.
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Omot
Trad climber
The here and now
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Jul 14, 2009 - 12:59am PT
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Wow. I heard about this just before heading into the backcountry for the week last Monday. I didn't know John personally, but his climbing feats were an inspiration and his insightful comments on this forum were much appreciated. From some comments here, it sounds like he really found his purpose in later life as a father. That's something we would have had in common, so I'm sorry we never got to connect and discuss fatherhood and the beauty of life. A Love Supreme.
My heartfelt condolences to family and friends.
Tomo
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jul 14, 2009 - 02:22am PT
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I wanted to keep this on the front page. Still too stunned.
Peace
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Unforgiven
Mountain climber
Dirt
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Jul 14, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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even though we never met, JB and I shared emails and talked on the phone once for a few hours.
John was so cool to talk with, he was very humble and was quick to say how awesome this climber was and how he watched another climber take free solo laps on the Rostrum which he thought was totally bad ass. JB said that he pretty much just liked to free solo single pitch stuff now unlike other guys that free soloed long routes and JB was totally amazed at what they were free soloing.
We talked about work out routines and how he admired Jack lalane and his work out method.
We exchanged emails, I sent JB some free soloing photos and john wrote back "those are some the best free soloing photos I've seen in a long time!" Thank you JB
A few times me and some buddies would be all drunk and call JB. We would leave messages saying "John your are the Focking Man!" "you Focking rule".
RIP JB
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 14, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
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I just wanted to thank those of you who've commented so
incredibly about JB. RickA, your photos have been wonderful.
Jaybro & Coz, your stories only make me wish more that I'd
been able to know John. Thank you all for the stories of
someone whose skill I'll never touch, but who's inspired me
greatly anyway.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 14, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
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Walleye, Nice story :D
In March I asked John if he'd ever considered expanding beyond slide shows because of the limited return on the investment of time and talent. We discussed his doing corporate gigs, universities, etc. and John came up with some great topics including "Inspiration, Discipline and Breaking Paradigms." Because of his philosophy of climbing and the dire need for this quality in many arenas today, I suggested we add Ethics. A great topic that could move in a variety of directions.
None of the large corporations I contacted said no they were not interested. Actually they all wanted a resume to submit to the decision makers. So John started working on his resume.
Bugged me when so few showed up in CO. for his last two slide shows. Funny how Hollywood and the false glitter attracts so many while someone who is truly great in their achievements has a lesser draw. Human beings are difficult to understand at times.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jul 15, 2009 - 10:25am PT
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bump
Peace
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 15, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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in 1987, when i was researching an article about mount woodson, i had the pleasure of getting the stories of the first ascents of drivin' south and hear my train a' coming firsthand, from bachar. he basically just walked up to them and did 'em first try...this was in 1974.
and he was so low key about it. now, if i have my crack history chronology right, for 1974 either one of these climbs qualifies as cutting-edge for the day, in addition to being fearsome highballs with bad landings. to bachar it was just another great day of bouldering. no fanfare, no cameras, no spotters...just another day of low-key mastery. for about a year or so doing those two routes was the focus of my climbing existance and getting them both on a midweek early spring wednesday in 1977, accompanied by my bff watusi, who also did both that day...well, it was and remains one of my most cherished climbing memories. as i type this i can still smell the chapparal in the damp morning air, can still feel the immeasurable, bone deep satisfaction. i can never so much as look at those routes without thinking of bachar.
john's accompishments are, as we all know, so broad in scope that it boggles the mind. but for me it's the huge body of his bouldering legacy that really gets me. shiver me timbers, planet x, all those woodson routes, slashface...just decades and decades of superb boulder problems, each and every one destined to become a "classic", and a must-tick for any serious boulderer.
been thinking about this for days now, and for me, personally, his boulder problems were what inspired me the most, made to want to climb my very best, just for the simple joy of it all.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
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bump ftw
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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nice bob.
i have two routes that i try to do each year, partly because they're two of my favorites and partly as yardsticks to check the depth of the rust. struck me just this week that they're both jb routes: caveman and steelfingers.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
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bump
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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me too kerwin. i do the same thing. everytime i go to woodson drivin' south, hear my train, and california night are the three must-ticks -- along with kevin powell's masterwork lemon chiffon: it's in there too.
for the valley, if i can't do bachar cracker it's wrist-slitting time.
for josh, gotta be able to do central scrutiziner...although always on tr these days!
thankful to say self-administered euthenasia has not yet been neccessary.
my god, what a legacy he left us...left us too soon, i'm afraid. but talk about a life well-lived.
here my train. if you've been here, you know that heart-in-throat feeling over the nightmarish highball stuff coming up...
and the conditions-dependent heartstopper topout on california night:
anyone else got any good shots of classic bachar problems to share? post 'em up!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 15, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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I hope it's ok to post this but I wanted folks to get this info asap
From John's Dad
++++++++++++
To All Who May Wish To Give Support To Tyrus Bachar:
Here are the details of the newly established trust fund for Tyrus.
_
THE TYRUS BACHAR LIVING TRUST IN MEMORY OF HIS LOVING FATHER,
JOHN M. BACHAR III,
John's close freinds and family wish to insure the health,education and well being of Tyrus Bachar.
For donations of any amount, please make checks payble to:
The Tyrus Bachar Living Trust
Address:
Acopa USA/ TBLT
2328 Jeanne Drive
Las Vegas, Nv, 89108
Or
Via Pay Pal
Email: tbacharlivingtrust@gmail.com
This email is registered with Pay Pal tostart accepting donations.
_
Respectfully,
John M. Bachar, Jr.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jul 15, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
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Thanks for posting Karl, I have Chris Mac working on getting something on this site, as my computer skills are lacking. I have the original and Chris said he'd be working on getting it done, first class! Just forwarded my copy to him to let him work his magic!
Peace
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eujin
climber
California
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Jul 16, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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Beautifully written obituary for John Bachar in next week's edition of the Economist. Despite containing some mistakes, I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.
http://www.economist.com/obituary/displaystory.cfm?story_id=14029915
"By the same token, if he escaped after making a mistake, the rock had merely let him get away with it. He got away many times; a bruised back was the worst injury he suffered until, on July 5th, he fell from Dike Wall in the eastern Sierra. He must have made some move that was ugly, clumsy or distracted. If he had kept the climb focused and beautiful, he could not possibly have died."
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stimky
climber
santa barbara ca.
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Jul 16, 2009 - 05:16pm PT
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I never climbed with John, he never wanted me to climb...I saw the posters and pictures at his house,and they would scare the hell out of me...I was looking at one shot of him on the side of some rock, up in Gods country, and he told me that life on the rock gets really simple. He said it's down to two things...it's right to hang on and it's wrong to let go.. John and myself shared a connection thru music. I sound proofed his studio at his house years ago. His neighbor who I think was a sheriff would stand outside with a D.B. meter and check to see if John was playing too loud. John would lay down a super fat funk groove and we'd open up some sierra nevada pale ale and jam for hours...he was an amazing player, I loved the way he'd play and he loved the way I'd play. We would free climb the scales and modes for hours, god that was great, I miss those times...I'll miss John... and what he meant to so many people it's unbeleivable... play on my freind see you on the other side..chris
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tage
Trad climber
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
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Jul 16, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
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Living in the Valley in the 70's we all new John Bacher. He was the 'force'. I am shocked as is most. I will pray for his loved ones left behind. His accomplishments were mind blowing. Anyone who climbed with a passion looked up to John.
Rest in peace, you have made your mark.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Jul 17, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
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Anyone else wanna pony up and request stupid comments to be removed from that site? I had one removed yesterday. Now there is a second. It's unfortunate that friends and family should have to read such crap.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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Diamond Man, Corona Del Mar.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 17, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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anyone got a good action shot of "shiver me timbers?"
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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Jul 17, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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Crossposting from a separate thread:
As I did when John was injured in his car accident, I'm offering 6 more photographs I took of him over the years as limited edition prints. They will be approx. 11"x14" in size, mounted and issued in editions of 25, signed and numbered. They will be priced at $100 each, plus shipping. These are different images than the previous batch and have never been offered for sale to the general public before. Also, as before, Cirrus Digital will absorb all printing and mount costs, so that the ENTIRE purchase price will be donated to the TYRUS BACHAR LIVING TRUST.
For those who wish to contribute to Tyrus financially, this is a great way to do so and have something to remember John by on your wall. The last time we did this we were able to raise almost $6000 for John and Steve, so it just seems like a win/win for all involved.
Here is a link to the site, which will offer more information and will take you to a shopping cart style purchase area where you can use a credit card or arrange to send a check. Because of the credit card situation, it isn't possible to funnel contributions directly to the trust, but if you are writing a check and want to be able to show evidence of a contribution you can write one to the trust for the print cost and one to Cirrus for shipping. Or just write one to us for everything and we will make sure the money is forwarded.
http://cirrus-digital.com/bachar.html
Oz, 5.10d, Tuolumne Meadows
Thanks in advance,
Phil Bard
Cirrus Digital Imaging
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Jul 17, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
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phil I think you shuold to put your pic option for tyrus as a new thread. maybe better exposure
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Phil Bard
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, OR
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Jul 17, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Already did, this was just a cross post from that thread.
Cheers
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Jul 17, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
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photo deleted by request from Dean, bonehead move on my part for posting it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 18, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
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apologies, but i'm simply not ready for this memory to fade off the front page just yet.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 18, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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here's a couple of pics people have seen before.
John bouldering in the Meadows
photo: Mike Leclinski
And Dean's iconic solo shot of More Monkey Then Funky
photo: Dean Bullwinkie
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 18, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Estes Park, Colorado, 1978.
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pinkpanther
Social climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jul 18, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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John, You lived to climb and died climbing- the only way for you to go. Reminiscing about the early 80's in Yosemite and Toulumme Meadows, and tutoring me in Math for the Teaching Test! Your ex-wife, Brenda Lugo in Puerto Rico is also thinking about about you. An ex-Mammothian, Sonia Petrozello
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 19, 2009 - 01:03am PT
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Thanks bvb, I'm not either. Wish I had more pics. I only have some current comments from jb that I think I will keep for later. Damn.....and I rarely ever swear, missing this Dude and concerned about the impact of his loss to his loved ones. When you're larger than life as jb was the loss so unexpectedly is more than one can absorb in a short period of time.
Keeping the memories alive.... for Tyrus and Paola and all his loved ones and friends, lynne
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 19, 2009 - 08:41am PT
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Goatboy-
That Dean foto is one of the most interesting "climbing" photos I have ever seen. Mari, JL, Roy all looking amazed.
What's the story?
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 19, 2009 - 11:29am PT
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I believe the title of that group photo is "Joshua Tree Olympics" or something like that. If Dean's lurking he can clairfy I'm sure
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To Tall
Social climber
Irvine,ca
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Jul 19, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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I started climbing in ‘81, my partner and I were sitting in the Impala hiding from the cold breeze. Facing the Left Ski Track someone started climbing it with no rope. Our eyes popped out, on the edge of the seat, heart pounding. At the time I didn’t know anyone climbed anything ropeless for any reason. As he made a few moves, no more worries. With jaws dropped we witnessed his solid effortless ballet style, which we also had no idea existed. After he finished I jumped out of the car and went up to someone who looked like a good climber and asked, “Who was that guy?” From that day on, leading the Left Ski Track was the goal. Years later, feeling fine after a few shots of Johnny Black, I soloed it.
One day at Owens River, at Dilithium Crystal, JB walks down with an oversized boom box on full battery load jamming James Brown. It looked like he was having a good day. I heard him rambling over and over JBKOS, and then he said, “James Brown is the King of Soul.” From the front row I saw him solo almost every route there. The way he climbed took all the suspense away. There was no chance he was going to fall. Looking back, I think he meant John Bachar is the King of soloing.
Whatever the case, my hat will always tipped in memory of Bachar. HE WAS THE KING.
Jim Gregg
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 19, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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Dave...is that you?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 19, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
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yep that be davey jones neilson methinks.
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grandpa
Trad climber
Wheat Ridge, CO
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Jul 19, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
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I am so sorry about this. John was always a hero of mine and an inspiration. I send my best to his family and friends. I won't forget him!
Richard Squire
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 20, 2009 - 12:12am PT
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John Bachar was a great and gifted man. That is a complicated thing to be.
Your vision of what is possible is expanded by the fact that current limits of possibility are well within your reach, and you know you have more in you.
When you are great, people treat you differently. Your opinion carries extra weight. You have to find yourself while subjected to a self-reinforcing feedback loop of respect and more.
The evolution of John Bachar is not only a story of a gifted man using those gifts for greatness, but also of a great man coming down to earth to care for his community and family.
When somebody dies, it’s a natural tendency to extol the fine qualities they had and ignore the difficult ones.
When somebody great dies, we often take a step further and idolize them. Great people are still humans with a spectrum of challenges, weaknesses and unique perspectives.
John Bachar was one of the greatest climbers and he knew it. People wanted his attention and time, and he had to manage that.
He had the vision to climb outside of other’s patterns and thrive on the edge of perfection when any error could be his last.
He had the courage to defend his risks without denying them, and also to question the veracity and integrity of the government running the country, and particularly it’s monetary system. He wasn’t just a rock jock, he was a thinking man.
He wanted things to have integrity, on the stone and in the halls of power.
John had stepped out of climbing for a number of years due to some health limitations but I did a photo shoot with him for a couple days in 2006 after he was able to return to the sport. Everyone marveled at how easily it seemed to come back to him. In between photographing some classic solos, we talked about everything from climbing, to relationships, to politics.
I was struck by the deep concern and love he conveyed toward his son Tyrus. Those who imagine John disrespected Tyrus by continuing to solo would be mistaken. Everything on John’s radar considered the welfare of Tyrus: falling just wasn’t on his radar.
I was struck by the sincerity with which he spoke of relationships. A handsome, single, famous guy could enjoy a playboy lifestyle but John was interested in having a committed and enduring partner.
We spoke of his family, his father, and it was easy to see he held them in high regard.
I was impressed when John, who in his youth had a certain reputation for aloofness or arrogance toward the masses, began posting on Supertopo in a helpful and generous egalitarian style. He gave a way a lot of shoes, a lot of advice, and weighed in on many issues without blatantly pulling rank.
Some might have said that was only good for his shoe company but his views regarding Bush, 9-11, and the Monetary system were upfront and not compatible with smoozing clients and customers. He was just being himself.
Walking around JTree. He was no longer aloof. All kinds of folks greeted and approached him and he was gracious with everybody.
Mike Reardon, Anastasia, John and I were at a climb in Echo Cove (Anastasia was climbing) Some folks came around the corner and asked about “The Big Moe” an overhanging 5.11 nearby. I got to tell them that crazy John Bachar soloed that thing back in the day. They ooohed and Ahhed but never knew he was standing right there.
I think there is a rhyme and reason to everything. I don’t expect everyone to agree. But I think John must have done what he needed to do here and had other business beyond this world that we can’t begin to know about. History is full of great man who make an exit before fading away. I wish him Godspeed on the great solo we all must do alone.
For those who are left behind. I hope it helps to be reminded that grief is very close to Love. We grieve because we Love. If you focus on the Love when feeling the grief, there is a bittersweet beauty in it.
Peace
Karl Baba
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L
climber
The Paleozoic rift of the Caradoc drift
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Jul 20, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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Thank you for that beautiful post, Karl. I totally agree with you.
And thanks for that photo...what a magical image.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Jul 20, 2009 - 12:33am PT
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Thank you, Karl.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jul 20, 2009 - 01:24am PT
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Karl that was great. Been thinking about Bachar -a lot. Need some new shoes and gonna try the Acopas.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
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Jul 20, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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(from my copy of Stone Crusade)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 20, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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From the bulletin board at the T Meadows store, yesterday;
Now that's climbing the Wyde with Pryde!
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jul 20, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Beautiful.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Imagine my surprise when I got to the end of this week's Economist magazine and saw an obituary for Bachar...
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:45pm PT
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The two JB's
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
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Economist, New York Times, LA Times, they all get the details of the climbing wrong, but the fact that Bachar has gathered this level of attention is phenomenal.
The economist guesses that Bachar "must have made some move that was ugly, clumsy, or distracted. If he had kept the climb focused and beautiful, he could not possibly have died."
Yeah I guess that's a valid possibility, but I don't think it went down that way.
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jul 21, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
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Yeah, I got what they were trying to saw, but I didn't like that closing sentence either. It sort of ignores the whole part about it being a real environment and not a climbing gym. Holds break unexpectedly. Rockfall from above. Unexpected animals in cracks. Who knows...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:32am PT
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Paul, I had forgotten about this pic. Lol, and haven't done much of that lately. Super pic and thinking about the times, the dimes and the climbs from these dudes. Also lol about the faces....from then til now. Wow !
Cheers to you up in the North. :D Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 22, 2009 - 02:46am PT
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Anders,
Have not heard about the public memorial service yet.....
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Jul 22, 2009 - 04:09am PT
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I heard that it was on the 27th, but alas... I have no detail beyond that.
Hugs,
AF
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 22, 2009 - 05:23am PT
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Memory
Bachar was bumming in his van outside the Ahwahnee Dorms when Brenda Lugo lived there. Probably 1981 or 2.
I was incharge of the dorms at night so I always let his unofficial presence slide cause I was a climber and Brenda was a friend.
Still it wasn't alway easy cause Bachar would play his sax in the van and it wasn't low key. Folks complained (and his initial talents with the sax weren't on par with his on-sight ability either. The Sax he learned the hard way, but he learned it)
Still, even though the company hated climbers back then, they knew better than to go up against Bachar! Some people have a personal power that opens doors for them that would slam on the fingers of somebody without it.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 22, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Jul 22, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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I heard the 27th too, Ana. Faint rumblings tho, really. I've booked the time on my calendar as spent in Mammoth that day. If it changes, so will my calendar, I suppose.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:27am PT
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So this jb Dude was doing his thing in Jtree while Brenda was there building a human pyramid of people with the folk after the climbing day was over. Brenda was beauty and fun. He focused. Like his bro said in the John Bachar dvd....jb was ocd or some brand.....but it worked for him.
Just another story from the past. Prayers with all of you that love him. Peace.
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sunnyside
Boulder climber
boulder
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Jul 24, 2009 - 12:28am PT
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Posted a bit on Mountain Project a while back. John was brought up again in conversation at our local hangout last night, an old valley friend and I talked about the good times back in the valley when we were teenagers. We talked for hours and remineced on those days, the history is astounding when looking back and one could attempt to articulate, on and on.
I recently discovered a primo chunk of granite in Boulder Canyon, Colorado and naturally named it after the great man. John was always an inspiration to us and will be missed. For those who'd like to see the Bachar Block, it is posted on Mountain Project in his memory.
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 24, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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BACHAR-A-GO-GO
Sorry, for repeat, I thought it got deleted. But I like the new route name?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 25, 2009 - 01:26am PT
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If I can get the energy sometime soon I've have to relate the first ascent of White Rastafarian by JB and I when we were kids. Or when we went on a western states bouldering expedition - 35 years ago. We had Ament's Master of Rock book and we tried to visit every photo we could featured in that book. You should have seen JB on some of those problems. He was something to behold. Even Gill was amazed when we hooked up with him for the Grand Tour.
So many memories . . .
JL
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Damian C
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 25, 2009 - 02:45am PT
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The first climbing photo I ever put up on my wall was of JB on White Rastafarian... it'd be so good to hear those stories, John.
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S.Leeper
Sport climber
Austin, Texas
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Jul 25, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
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Just a reminder of the good people we have lost of late..
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hooblie
climber
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Jul 26, 2009 - 08:22am PT
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sending this up with john in mind
it has such a soulful plea for connection, a reach and glide that ascends like smoke right thru the scrum and embroidered contraindication.
coltraine's "dear lord"...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCb2f7FesaY
after a couple of rounds in the sweat lodge, drawing air through a spray of sage, my voice yields a bit and
humbly offers a range of tones that frame this melody. the grace notes and rhythm inhabit my own auditorium,
but the tears flow on cue.
i only heard our john blow in the early days, when he just aspired to play the beauty that he heard.
he never quit working to wrap his fingers around perfected expression.
i think the quest softened his touch, left room to recognize the humor in an earnest struggle.
we watched the empathy seep in and now he's on his way. y nosotros tambien compadre
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 27, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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so sad. so many of us gone ahead. don't know what to say anymore.
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ikellen
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 28, 2009 - 10:10am PT
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I happened to cruise through rc.com today and got to read the horrible news. I know I'm about a week late with this, but it's still a shocker to hear.
I had the pleasure of spending a day climbing with John back in 2007. I had met him through the gear shop I had then worked at, and even though I held him to be somewhat of a climbing celebrity, he was surprisingly down to earth, even to a then 19 year old ski bum who had trouble mouthing the words "nice to meet you". I was starstruck to say the least.
I sent John an email later that day essentially admitting my awe at being in the presence of someone whom I considered a true legend. On a whim, I left my phone number at the bottom of the message. Two days later I randomly got a call from a number I didn't recognize.
"Hello?"
"Kellen?"
"Yeah, who's this?"
"It's Bachar"
I probably almost lost it right there, but awkwardly made my way through a phone call that ended with us planning on going climbing later that week. I hung up the phone and immediately called all my climber friends from back home and gloated as if I had just played one on one with Michael Jordan.
Going climbing with Bachar was intimidating for me, but at the same time one of my most treasured climbing experiences. I was in decent shape at the time, and told him I'd be game for anything 5.10, and maybe I'd chance a 5.11 or two. 4 routes later my arms were begging for a break, and Bachar was just warming up.
After flailing out on a somewhat tough 10c route, I had to lower off after 4 bolts and sheepishly admit defeat to what was problem John's solo warm-up. We pulled the rope leaving 4 of John's draws on the route. I felt somewhat embarrassed at flailing out in front of a man that I held so highly, but more embarrassed that I left his gear up there.
I sat somewhat silently at the base of the route, hoping that I wouldn't be forced to try to flail my way through the route again so we wouldn't have to leave gear. It was then that I watched john drop his harness, chalk his hands, and immediately start to ascend the route in his signature free solo style. I watched in awe as the living legend lived up to everything I had imagined, easily sending the route and collecting all the gear I had left up there.
I was amazed and in awe, and at the same time felt somewhat pathetic for my poor effort in comparison to the walk in the park I had just witnessed.
I never got to climb with John after this, as he suffered his tragic car accident seemingly almost weeks afterwards. However, it was a true pleasure to witness this man work his trade, and an even greater pleasure to have known him and been able to spend time and pick his brain about all the legendary ascents I had read about in books and magazines.
While I am no deep close friend of John's, it still saddens me that the climbing world has lost a true icon of the sport, one who embodied adventure and challenge in every route he climbed. Some may have questioned his motives and purpose, but it is no question that he contributed more to climbing and the people who got to climb with him in his 52 years of life than most of us will collectively in our lifetimes.
R.I.P good sir, hope there's long splitters and clean granite in heaven.
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AlexReinhard
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 29, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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We had just interviewed John about a month ago. The day we were scheduled to reach Mammoth, the brakes to our VW Van burned out and I had to call John to see if we could reschedule. I expected him to be a prima donna and decline the interview because of his reputation as an outspoken climbing god. John was just like "no problem come on by tomorrow". He told us he had burned out the brakes on his vw years ago too.
John's frankness made for one of our most interesting interviews. He wasn't hesitant to use profane language either, which was awesome. He gave us beer too! After the interview he left us in his house alone to pack up our equipment because he had to go climbing.
I put together some footage of his interview posted here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lY1SealpQ4w
Thank you for telling us your stories John. RIP.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Jul 29, 2009 - 12:58am PT
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Alex,
Thank you.
John Bachar was and always will be my friend.
The footage brought much peace; John Long and Peter Croft ...Wow!
Sincerely,
Jo Whitford
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 29, 2009 - 02:12am PT
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Pro like so Many, still missing yo Dude. Mayhap life will take a turn and go on. Dude, got to meet a good friend of yo this weekend. So Life may take off again....never know. Cheers tonight Guy. Thinking about all you said. So, what round are you and Dan boy in.....? hehehe. lrl
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 30, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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So this climber pulls into a gas station. Tuolumne, 1987. There’s a cut, blond surfer kind of a guy filling his 4x4 over there. Running shorts, track singlet. Knee socks with bold soccer stripes -- is this cool or goofball? He looks strong and self-… Wait, that’s John Bachar!
Dude rolls over, throwing his best insolent strut. So stunned, though, when he opens his mouth out croaks the obvious and pathetic: “How can you solo all that crazy stuff?”
John meets his gaze, level and cool: “You’re soloing right now.”
I wasn’t even part of the conversation, but it has stuck with me ever since. On a few levels.
This afternoon, for instance, balancing on a redwood log across a ravine. Classic third class, the moves aren’t bad but below is a twenty-foot drop into a leg-breaking tangle of trunks. That’s barely beyond bouldering on John’s soloing scale, yet his goofball-obvious, zen-quick, tossed off line flashed into my mind. If conversation were chess, that was a knight’s move.
To see him in action was a treat. A couple of years earlier in Joshua Tree he swung onto the Gunsmoke Traverse, V3 before there was such a thing. It runs horizontally a hundred feet or more and the moves often overhang. John had finished his soloing circuit for the day, including a beyond-highball ascent of Leave it to Beaver, 5.12a, and Gunsmoke was just finishing it off with a workout.
After a couple of laps John’s well-oiled, seemingly effortless moves have me lulled into thinking it’s easy. He even climbs over a guy going the other way. I struggle maybe half way along the traverse in his wake before I can’t hold on any longer. John does six laps.
Leave it to Beaver had looked not only casual but nearly effortless, his footwork precise with an almost ballet-like lightness. He paused way up there, nothing but an open-palm sloper holding him to the overhanging wall, and chalked up. Look closer and you can clearly see that this is not dance. There is a slight pause over each hold, affirming his grip. Positive press on the rubber, and each handhold locked on. John is building up his ascent with great care.
He had done it the day before, and probably would again the next. There was a quality of performance in repeating it, but not so much because of audience as for the sake of practice. John Gill articulated the likeness to a gymnastic routine, an ideal of movement, repeated for its own sake even to an empty gym. During other stretches of his life that routine played out in the Valley, Tuolumne, the Owens River Gorge. You might get lucky and stumble on a performance. Or a photo would make it big and glossy and breathtaking. Who can forget Phil Bard’s shot of John On the Lamb, with the billowing clouds of a Tuolumne summer sky over his shoulder?
I once saw his foot, not yet weighted, skate off a slick Tuolumne knob. His body hung with certainty over the remaining holds as he pulled the leg back, unfazed.
Good? Well I guess! How good was he? Comparisons feel clumsy, but I’m driven to try. Coming out of the Valley in the sixties, several generations before John as climbing goes, it was hard for me to tell. I had held the rope for the likes of Pratt, and struggled up his pitches. Going into the 70s, Bridwell’s climbs still felt within reach, maybe, by training hard. But the Stonemasters left us in the dust. And by the end of their seventies decade Kauk and Bachar were way out in front of the rest. They were pumping irrational numbers, and John was often unroped. The stuff they climbed had fully broken contact with my ability to understand it. As Royal Robbins once said about John Gill, “I could grasp the holds but not the problem.”
He was very careful. Far from the abandon of say a balls-out Yabo or the desperation of many a guy’s breakup solos, John thoroughly worked it. That was a little hard to see against the backdrop of a Stonemaster culture that was so California in projecting casual, offhanded, ain’t-no-thing. He could be crazy, sure, like the story of riding a skateboard down the centerline of a Valley tunnel, playing his sax. But his approach to soloing had a huge conservative streak.
Maybe careful is an odd quality to attribute to a soloist, but John actually took training and preparation to new levels, even to the point of wrecking his elbow tendons on the Bachar Ladder. Some of what we know now about how not to overtrain comes from John’s eagerness for preparation, probing the outer limits of fitness. The signs were everywhere, like toproping and leading repeatedly before casting off the cord. When he took off the rope, John was way ready.
Even when he put on a rope to walk among the rest of us, legends were born. Like the Bachar-Yerian. Yet there was a lot of care in that innovation too. When he began flirting with the idea of placing bolts on lead on walls so steep he’d need to hang from a hook, John mentioned recently that he had practiced for a week drilling from hook placements to be sure he could work it. That part wasn’t so obvious when you just caught a photo of him poised up there, locked onto shockingly steep tiny knobs.
Maybe one thing that attracted him to blowing crazy Sax was the chance to step out more freely, to let it all go into spontaneous improv. The lure of jazz was so strong he even tried to turn his back on climbing. “I gave it 20 good years,” he said once. Of course that didn’t last. From then on he juggled both lovers.
His shoe designs were as innovative as his climbing; you could see how much thought went into seeing freshly how best to make feet work on rock. It’s a revolutionary idea, but you really can climb better when your feet are comfortable. And John’s ability to hop lightly out of the rut of tradition is what got him into the shoe game in the first place. His willingness to simply try some guy’s strange Spanish shoes one day in Camp 4 ended up bringing us all the gift of gomme cocida, sticky rubber. That moment has always been one of my favorite examples of the potent innocence of beginners mind.
I go back to my notes from that 1985 day in Joshua Tree. “Surfer-blond with a nearly shy smile, he jumped out of a new 4x4 riding a jazz riff from the Last Poets.” That smile holds a key. He was shy underneath it all, especially at first, an LA surfer boy washed inland, gone vertical onto waves of stone. There he found his true vocation, and it began slowly to erase the shyness. A touch of arrogance showed before it was fully gone.
John’s son Tyrus, who performed 2.0 minutes of silence to transfix his memorial, also said “He was 27% badass.” But like any teenager he underestimated the old man just a taste.
And you know, beneath it all he was just flat cool.
John loved to climb. Whatever the mysterious joy really is – don’t get me started – that we get out it, John Bachar squeezed out more of it. More mileage, more laps, more moments of rapt attention, leading to the state of flow. Bypassing those nagging interruptions -- the sheer mechanics of safeguarding a climb -- is one of the more trivial aspects of soloing, but at least it’s an easy one to understand. We don’t have to get into John’s head to understand about not breaking the focus on movement to fuss with peripheral distractions like rope and partner. Not breaking for pitches or even to fiddle in more pro. The gift is following the rhythm of the rock, and holding that rhythm from bottom to top-out.
Holding open the sustain key of those moments adds to the flow. And the flow, getting into that zone where moves become effortless and the climbing seems to happen by itself – that’s the real deal. That’s the gift John gave himself, damn near every day. It’s easy to call that selfish, and John seemed to have no illusions about the absolute nature of soloing. But in the always questionable way that climbing builds character, we could see him transforming. Less arrogant. More going out of his way to turn his attention and kindness onto strangers, geeks and nOObs. One of the best things to arise since his death is the countless small tales of his pausing to give full focus to the query of a stranger. Gone in those moments was the guy on the cover of Life magazine, out there alone in the stratosphere of his achievement. Lately, approaching him sincerely seemed to be the only gatekeeper to John’s kind attention.
That transformation was the gift to the world that flowed out of John’s gift to himself. It was coming into full flower. Lynn Leichtfuss has illuminated how he was in process of hatching a plan to carry his influence beyond shoe salesman. For us still here in the world, his budding gift was cut short. Leaving aside the void his immediate family wrestles with, losing that gift of compassion showered onto the larger world is the tragedy of John’s death. Kindness will survive; we have been charged and inspired by his example.
Thank you, John. Rest in Peace.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 30, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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DR, beautifully penned. You captured the essence of the man then and now. Thank you ...... lrl
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Loretta Chuzum
climber
Taos New Mexico
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Jul 30, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
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ooohhhh....no.
When living in Mammoth in the late 80's, I was climbing in the gorge one day, (after those great oats they served at Anything Goes!) Feeling strong and confident with just a few moves to go....when someone swept past me on the rock to my right moving with grace and elegance and no rope. I couldn't move... just watching with my mouth hanging open. I whispered "wow".
It was a beautiful and impressive sight and he also was a beautiful man. Peace John Bachar...
(Still have the Patagonia catalog with you playing your sax)
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Thank you DR, for saying what I have been feeling since the news. Beautiful.
Michael
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Know people are still thinking what we be sayin'. John Dude, missing you and will for a Long Time. Every day, many times during the day....jb what would we be working on now ?
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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DR your pen flows like a high sierra stream - beautiful- cheers
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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At John's talk in Golden recently someone asked him about memorable experiences in Yosemite. He mentioned ranger-climber softball games. I told him I had some pics and he said he'd like to see them but I didn't get a chance to send them....(c1975?)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Bump for Mr. Bachar
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Good form, weight on the back foot, elbow up, hand back, waiting to transfer with the front foot up, head looking forward and chin down! Damn he had form even with baseball, his Dad musta coached him well.
Peace
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Thinking the same thing today Ron, darn he was the Dude. Missing, missing, missing.
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Bump...
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Doug;
Thanks for that post, What you wrote is so true. I think the only thing I could add is John was no doubt the best climber in the world with or without a rope for more than two decades, And has left his mark soundly on our sport right up there with all the greats before him. StoneMasters Rule! His dedication to training was inspired by Gill heavily ( I think ) and then the competitive nature of the brotherhood set them a part from us mere mortals of the time.
We here will miss him, Bruce.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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In memory of a great man....Yeah, and so much more. Darn, Dude ...... wish yo were still here. Life has a huge yawning gape without yo......Sigh ! Praying for your loved ones. Peace, lynnie
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
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"
I just noticed these posts from 2008 in the Alan Nelson thread: " (Clint)
Reardon death, he says the same thing . in one of those old t.v. interviews Bachar said like " I'll climb until I die " . i know .. but not at 52 !
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Friend
climber
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Aug 22, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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Here's a classic Basecamp blurb from Climbing, April 1989
RIP Bachar.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 23, 2009 - 12:17am PT
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Missing yo Both......dAN AND jOHN
but bet you both be having fun together in the heavenlies. Know you guys will put up the best route ever ....hey, you found the route to eternity.....love and missing yo. Peace, Lynne
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jason Crichton
climber
NZ
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John, You inspired me to become a soloist and I climbed to that end for 8 years. Only someone who tries to climb some of the routes you soloed or is familiar with the areas you climbed in, could have any idea what you were actually doing so long ago. Thank you for guiding me to soloing and especially now for helping me to stop it for good just as I thought to start again. My children are too precious and I am only just learning to live fully, even in hindsight of my soloing exploits. Growing in Love is so much more important than a short lived solo and extremely risky style of climbing. I say again however thank you for inspiring me to solo, it was one of the greatest gifts I ever had.
Now I want to climb with my children.
Jason of the Valley.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Just thinking about John, DR's post is right on!!
rIGHT NOW, with 3 plus Gin and Tonics in me all I can say is
John Bachar Rules .....
GK
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sunnyside
Big Wall climber
boulder
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Oct 12, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
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[photoid=130745]
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Oct 12, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
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Thanks sunnyside, made my day sunnier! Posted some stuff on climbing art thread, one mention of Bachar on there!
Peace
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Oct 12, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
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Thinking of him all day today, Ron....
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Oct 12, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Oct 12, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
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Yeah, Came home early from a full hard day at the mines. Thinkin' Lynnie gal this is the year yo need to focus and make it happen. Thought of JB and all the times he said come on out and let me show yo some stuff on the rock.
Word: When it happens do it....I kept putting it off. John died. Sheee.
Live, Breathe, with Peace, Patience, Perseverance and Love.....love is not ever easy. Live it one Day at a time, one step at a time .....Breathe and listen to and guard your inner chee which fo' me is God. lrl
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sunnyside
Big Wall climber
boulder
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Oct 13, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Oct 13, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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Hey Lynne, John can still show you! Dan kept showing me stuff well after he and I quit seeing each other at the rock! Visualization, close yer eyes and visualize, the moves will be seen! When yo coming over for some grub??? Kelly and I would LOVE to have yo over!
Peace
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Oct 14, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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Thanks for the encouragement Ron ! Close relative seriously ill. Will take a rain check on the dinner if that's ok. Peace to you and Kelly. lynnie
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 14, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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Really beautiful remembrance of John in Alpinist #28.
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IDreamOfBishopCA
Sport climber
Nottingham
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May 18, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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Rest in peace John.
I feel bad only just finding this out. I dropped out of the climbing scene a couple of years ago due to work and time pressues, and still mean to take it up again.
This makes me feel tearful. It seems to me to be the beginning of a turn of the generations. When I was growing up in the UK in the 70s and early 80s, "Yosemite Climber" and "The Games Climbers Play" were our bibles... Those carefree, long haired guys with bandanas flowing in the breeze were our alter egos. We'd grow our hair as long as we dared, smoke weed on the gritstone outcrops of the Pennines, and talk about "The Valley" as if we knew it!
In the 90s, I spent a few years working in northern CA, and spent all my spare time down that eastern side. Camping in the desert by the hot springs, bouldering till my fingers bled, still chasing the alternative, rock rat California dream! I feel homesick when I think of Bishop even now.
I haven't read the thread, and I suppose many people will have typed the cliche about checking out while doing what you love. I look at it another way. John's talent burned so bright, he was always among the strongest fittest climbers. When we age, most of us compromise. I'm 47, I hope to climb 5.12 again. John couldn't consider setting his sights lower. He was an extreme soloist. He could do no other.
Peace and love to the rock climbing community! I'll be coming home some day.
Nige
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Jeffonbike
Sport climber
Mindelheim, Bavaria
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Dear John - now a year passed by and the cut still feels fresh in my brain. Many times your are in my mind and I remember the little but intense time we spent together. Take care at the place you went now - big hug - Jeff
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squishy
Mountain climber
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May 26, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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May 26, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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squishy... That's a great shot. Plenty of balls in that stance high above and no pads!
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squishy
Mountain climber
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May 26, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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Taken by Sam Roberts, posted on FB, eldo canyon 5.12a
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pile
Trad climber
CA
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May 26, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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bump for bachar, he lives on in our memory and when we speak of him
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 26, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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I see a head in the bottom right.
John might be thinking to himself, "I can't hear a word he's sayin'."
[Click to View YouTube Video]
I'm walkin' here! I'm walkin' here!"
--Ratso Rizzo
What a Great Memorial Day tribute for the Ladder Lad!
Bump, squish.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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May 27, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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Nice photo Squishy. Thanks for posting.
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Sam R
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 27, 2012 - 08:38am PT
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Cragman's right- Hard Copy in the Gorge. Here's JB settin' up the soundtrack for the day- James Brown!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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bump, vibes to TB
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Whatever happened to John's son? Did JB have an estate to take care of him should John ever have the accident that he did eventually have?
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Bondo
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes,CA
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Yooooooooo.... Today is JB's day... He did so much for so many! Still very present in our hearts and souls... I see you every day JB... Bondo
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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We still miss you, John.
RIP
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Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
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Bump in memoriam.
AFS
P.S. I know John's son is in good hands with his mother. John's Father is taking care of the rest. Plus they have Paola backing them up and she is one heck of a woman.
It will never replace a father but it's solid for what it is.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Yeah, that's good he's being well taken care of.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Always thinkin' of John. Miss you bro.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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R.I.P my friend..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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@ the kid- that is an amazing tribute, thanks for sharing. RIP.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Killer Kurt!
Peace
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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I was climbing today at the Dike Wall for the first time since John passed. I spend some moments in prayer for John, Tyrus and all you who knew and loved him. I climbed better than I had any right to - no doubt John's inspiration.
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CF
climber
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was going through some old photo and found this. not sure if i had ever posted it or one like like it?
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old craghag
Sport climber
Bishop
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I am sharing a book with Blitzo that John originally shared with me Love, Medicine, and Miracles. I hope he can gain strength from the remembrance of John as I always have. BTW, The tat is rad
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Hey cf! Is that from Grant's wedding? 92 or 93? If so, He was rippin' it up and that little travel sax that day!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Nice shot, Chris! I am almost certain that shot is from Grant's Wedding in the Summer of 94, Cragar.
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Tobia
Social climber
Denial
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that's a stylin' pose you caught chris.
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whitemeat
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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he had one of the best shoe companys out there!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Big Bump!
We miss you, John!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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More kind BBST . . . Indeed this is the man who really carried the bold and difficult baton into the future of his era . . . guys like Alex Honnold and Hayden Kennedy are now carrying it into their own brave new worlds. We owe a debt of gratitude to John Bachar for leading by example and showing us what true potential is all about.
I really only "met" the man once while I was descending from Manure Pile in 1987 with my climbing companions, the beautiful Krebs sisters from Pfaffikon Switzerland, Bettina and Suzanne. He was hiking up the descent trail alone and we passed him on the way down . . . few words were exchanged but I could tell he was a bit envious of my superior babe ratio.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Remembering John on the Fourth of You Lie!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Bump for Bachar, packed full of talent, class, and heart.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Thanks, Mark. I had never seen that image before.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Cool - glad to see the bumpage of the classics!
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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When JB and Largo paid me a visit so many years ago, I took them to a hidden canyon in southern Colorado where I had avoided climbing on a certain boulder so they would have the opportunity to establish problems.
What talents those two had!
JB and girlfriend
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Mark Force, Thanks!
Thinking of John all summer as I worked at TPR and spent tons of time in Tuolumne.....Bachar Land. Know John is living in the heavenlies and his spirit is with his Son, Paola, Family and Friends.
Peace to you JB. You are missed on so many levels.
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Shawn Curtis took that photo.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Mr. Gill, Thank you for that picture of Bachar; it's a thing of beauty.
Thanks, Lynne. Nick, appreciate the heads up. Do you know the year it was taken?
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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Around 74/75' All Shawns photos were on 35mm slides, Dean should be able to tell you for sure.
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Rockies Obscure
Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
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Nov 10, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
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Found this except for the last page of the magazine story....
Hope those interested can read it
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 11, 2014 - 08:39am PT
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Rockies.... thanks for posting that.
When John quit school, he moved to Josh. Unlike the rest of us slackers, John started to train HARD. Running, Pullups, miles of free soloing everyday and hard bouldering.... after one winter- the change in his climbing was easy to see.
"Work out" was his motto and if you wanted "IT", all one had to do was start working out everyday.
And you know- He was right.
John, thanks for showing us the way.
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pa
climber
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March 2008
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nice!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Paola, that's the John I remember....clowning around!
Wish I could give and get a hug today.
Peace
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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thanks pa, that image brought a big smile to my face
and a very warm feeling of nostalgia
be well all of you
live well
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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JB is missed, greatly.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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I'm glad I got to meet and hang with John some before he left us. I really liked his vibe. Rest easy bro.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Good to see his legend still lives, one of the all time greats.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jul 10, 2015 - 06:58am PT
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Never Forgotten.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 10, 2015 - 09:20am PT
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Just finished re-reading the Alpinist issue re: John's passing.
Truly missed.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 10, 2015 - 09:24am PT
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Guyman (prankster? Kesey, legacy?)
Nov 11, 2014 - 08:39am PT
Rockies.... thanks for posting that.
When John quit school, he moved to Josh. Unlike the rest of us slackers, John started to train HARD. Running, Pullups, miles of free soloing everyday and hard bouldering.... after one winter- the change in his climbing was easy to see.
"Work out" was his motto and if you wanted "IT", all one had to do was start working out everyday.
And you know- He was right.
John, thanks for showing us the way.
Yes, the one thing that his purity really instilled was the full value of putting the time in at the basics, movement strength of body and mind ?
Three cheers for. . ..
For your and my great hero who left us too soon!
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old craghag
Sport climber
Bishop
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Jul 11, 2015 - 09:46am PT
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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We still think about you, John. Lots.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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I walk by my copy several times a day too Kathy.
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