Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
|
Goodrich Pinnacle Right TR 6/7/09
Here’s a few pics of this great route.
This deer was not impressed with us and only moved away under protest.
The first couple of pitches, are fun and moderate. Here’s a pic looking down pitch 3, 5.7. This was moderate as well, and fun.
Here’s a pic looking up P4.
This pitch has short section of slick friction moves after the one bolt, 5.8, kind of a warm up for what’s above.
I lead P5. It is a bit run out but there is good pro at the 5.9. I thought I was getting the tough pitch but this 5.9 is not that bad.
Here is a pic of P6.
This is the real deal. Even following was thought provoking. We went down and left after the last bolt. The runout is long after this but the holds seem huge after the early slickness.
P7 is just fun.
There are some pretty nice views up here.
Here’s Bob on top of the Pinnacle.
Yours Truly on the rappel.
Another nice day. See you on the rock.
Zander
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
|
Thanks!
|
|
spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
|
Yow!
Zander and Bob gettin' it done! Thanks for the pics! :)
|
|
rockermike
Mountain climber
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
|
Thanks for posting.
I've been meaning to get back up there but wanted a little more beta. Last time I did it I followed pitch 5 (right tending 5.9 in book) and found it about 10c above only one manky pin. I guess I wasn't following the path of least resistance but I've been a bit terrified of that pitch ever since. ha
Not so bad you say? I'll have to look around a bit more next time. I found the next pitch not that bad myself.
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
|
right....to....the...point.
thanks, that rock looks killer.
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
|
Did you see any evidence of rock fall on the LEFT side as was reported some time back on ST? Sounded like it started near the top? Whatever, it goes without saying great classic route.
|
|
Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
|
Thanks for sharing your fine outing. No thunder, I guess.
Rockermike- It sounds like you were on the straight up P5- higher pucker factor.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
|
slab bump
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
|
Very cool, Zander! Looks like a fun route, and well-documented by you guys. Thanks for the TR!
|
|
Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
|
nice pics, thanks for sharing!
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
|
Rockermike,
I think you did get off route on P5. The way I went is straight up to the nest of pins. I put a black Alien in next to it- probably would have held. (I know, I know, fricken Aliens. Got to get them off Bob's rack) then you go directly right and even a little down. Just as you start to feel you are a little out there, two bolts appear. A few moves later you get the good 3/4" cam that's on the Supertopo. the 5.9 is right after that so you are solid.
Here's more info on this route and Clint's topo which shows the bolts.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=578909&msg=579154#msg579154
Climb On!
Zander
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
|
Nice !
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
|
purdy cool!
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
|
Looks Awesome!
Thanks for posting!
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
|
yes indeed!
|
|
murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
|
Awesome.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
|
Charlie D.,
> Did you see any evidence of rock fall on the LEFT side as was reported some time back on ST? Sounded like it started near the top?
The possible rockfall zone previously discussed is above the top of Goodrich Pinnacle, probably slightly left of the Goodrich to Oasis route.
|
|
Eric McAuliffe
Trad climber
Alpine County, CA
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
|
bump for climbing content!!!!and a cool looking climb thats on my list.
E
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
|
Very cool, Zander.
Thanks.
|
|
climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
|
Nice TR. Glad you had a fun time.
I was up there on the 5th and it was windy, cold and we got rained on during the last two pitches. Yuk! Looked much better for you. The 5.9 on the 6th (?) pitch was impressively glassy - my shoes were squeaking on it.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Jun 12, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
|
Great job, guys!
|
|
Dirka
Trad climber
SF
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2009 - 12:10am PT
|
Nice work man. That run out pitch is SPICY!!!
|
|
hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
|
Climbed this last week. DEFINITELY evidence of Rockfall on the left side. We rapped on the left side alternate raps (not recommended although I have not rapped the route either) and found lots of freshies, rocks and dust, on the ground and on the big ledge one rap off the ground.
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
|
Jun 13, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
|
Thanks Clint for the info.
|
|
Moquah
Trad climber
Carson City Nevada
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2009 - 10:00am PT
|
Did this about five years ago with Larry S. Great route! I remember one pitch being very run-out and another being very hard; must be pitch 6 and 5 respectively. What I remember with the most vivid recall though was looking up at the continuation route Galactic Hitchhiker and thinking Wow!! Don
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2009 - 12:09am PT
|
Nice TR. I wonder if the Variation you guys did was put in by the Galactic Hitchhiker team when they did their route from the top of Goodrich to the rim. It's a bit of a detour off right and left (adds an additional pitch, but you get to clip some bolts)
The Original pitch to the bottom of the chimney pitch is a more straight run from the pitch 4 belay, but the only pro is one rusty set of stacked pins. Dicey! You could fall 200 feet.
Having done this route more than any man alive, it's unlikely I'd fall on it but actually did once, early in the morning when trying to make time on Galactic Hitchhiker. I got slightly off route and some dirt and ball bearings on the slipperly slab got me and I went 15 or 20 feet (good to fall early) Factor 2 on the belay but the slabiosity made it a trivial catch. We went on to send the route.
For some folks, it could be a plan to climb two more pitches from Goodrich (can be combined into one) and from there you can rap to the Hang (just barely) on top of pitch 7 of Hall of Mirrors. That way you can TR some glassy 5.11 and 10+ slab on the way down without having to take 40 foot slow motion sliders on rusty bolts.
Peace
Karl
|
|
Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2009 - 12:27am PT
|
Yay slab.
Did it a few years back. Stellar and slick.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2009 - 01:12am PT
|
Beautiful rock, route and climb. Thanks for the pics and inspiration. Gotta quit this full time job.....
|
|
Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2009 - 01:14am PT
|
It's a great route and your pics brought it all back. Last time I did it we ended up rapping down in the dark. Between the 3 of us we only had 1 headlamp! Good to see it in good light. Thanks, Zander :-)
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jun 18, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
|
I did Goodrich Right in the 70's. Was a great climb. Runout in places.
Then we proceeded up to the Oasis. I recall grass filled corners with sparse pro and some 5.8+ to 5.9 runout.
Rapped the Roher chains down past Coonyard.
Was a fine, long day.
Has anyone else gone that way to the Oasis lately?
|
|
| Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!