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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 8, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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The subject of this case study is a 60 year old male, referred to as me.
Me has been climbing for a little over 40 years and has a history of moving to a new climbing area every 8 years or so. Through the years there has been little evidence of change in climbing ability. There hasn't been an index climb to compare ability over a long enough span of time.
About 15 years ago me climbed a route at Squamish and last Friday returned to it. Here is the simple black-and-white. Only pitch 2 of the route is used.
15 years ago: Led pitch comfortably
10(?) years ago: Partner started pitch, reported "almost blacking out", set belay partway up; me led through wondering what partner was talking about
5 years ago: Led pitch, nearly blacked out (but only grabbed one piece briefly during clipping (which once would have been extremely mortifying))
Last Friday: followed pitch, hung twice
This is a route that Steve Seats soloed and had a smoke while hanging from a hand jam.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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All that is true, Andy, but on the other hand, you can get discounted rates on bus passes.
Welcome to Seniorville!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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60 is young dude. Do cardio like road biking twice a week, along with a couple hours of weight training. and work out on a climbing wall at least once or twice a week as well. Eat healthy and get good sleep. You'll be firing up 5.10 leads before you know it.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You'll be firing up 5.10 leads before you know it.
I suspect that is just what he fears...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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If you're looking for sympathy you came to the wrong place! :-)
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I totally agree with Studly. It is a cheap shot to blame age when the core problem is simply lack of interest and conditioning. If back in the day I had somehow gained this much weight suddenly over the winter and gotten this out of shape in general, I would have blacked out too on your route, even at the age of 22. And being 60 does not mean I couldn't retrieve quite a bit of what I once was, should I so wish to. I should of course be attending to my health more. Gyms don't make me happy at all anymore. It is the actual adventures that still call to me.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Aarrggh. I don't need to be reminded. I just feel glad when I wake up and nothing hurts.
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apogee
climber
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I still have more than 10 years to go to get to the 60-zone, but have already become acutely aware of this trend. For a while, it was really disturbing to me, but the clearer I have become that my identity is the sum of many parts and not simply or predominantly being a climber, the more at peace I have become with it.
Most importantly, I can go out and climb and just have fun- something that was much harder to do when I was younger, driving myself harder to be a better climber. Though I'm not climbing as hard or as often as I used to, I generally seem to enjoy it more.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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The trick is to eat right and still climb.
This morning I sliced up a bunch of strawberries into plain yogurt and sprinkled on some cinnamon and went to rack up.
Then I puked into the garbage in the garage because, not wearing my glasses, the "cinnamon" turned out to be szechwan seasoning!
DOH!
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hooblie
climber
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a day when nothing hurts is a mighty fine day indeed.
it's kind of cute how the mind is still a young pup and gets all eager to load a bigole sack and jump up on some far flung awesome thing.....oh, ya...welcome to the flipside of can do.
i suppose a piano player who had some chops bitd would feel about the same if he sat down to play an instrument this far out of whack. you reallygottawanna
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Is this comparable to decline due to injury with permanent effects ?
I've only been back to ice climbing for one season after breaking my neck and becoming a walking quad. It's gone alright, but sometimes I really wonder if I'm ever going to be leading ice again.
Here's hypothetical a question: if you discovered that (for whatever reason) you couldn't lead, would you keep climbing ?
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Ya old fvckers!
5.4 multipitch in the Gunks with my oldest daughter [13] is game right now. I point to roofs that I used to toy with and I get the ubiquitous eye roll. While in the car I tell wild tales of the supurb rock and sustained pitches out at Skytop and get iPod nodding in response. I avoid telling of the hauling of kegs to the High Ex ledge and then attempting to lead out in the morning.
And the climbing is better than ever.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Rock on, Gunkie!
Thor
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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As you age your goal changes from stealing Beckey's black book (or unsorted Fedex folder) of unclimbed routes to stealing Beckey's black book (or unsorted Fedex folder) of rope gun partners?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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What about Fred's little black book of girlfriends and potential girlfriends? Now THAT would be the real deal. Like his climbing, his womanizing may now mostly happen in his head - but he's 86, and he's still dreaming.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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"potential girlfriends"
Besides most guys, who does that rule OUT???
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I think it's time to invoke the name of our immortal Al Steck who is just about ninety years old and still climbs tons and does some 5.10's. He has kept reasonably fit and has traveled quite a bit for climbing, keeping a fresh outllook.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I think it's time to invoke the name of our immortal Al Steck who is just about ninety years old and still climbs tons and does some 5.10's. He has kept reasonably fit and has traveled quite a bit for climbing, keeping a fresh outllook.
True, but with the caveat that even Allen has seen some age-related declines. On one visit to Berkeley a few years back he took me to Indian Rock. We climbed a variety of things, but one in particular was giving him trouble. He kept getting spat off at the same move, and was cursing that he'd never had trouble on this move before, and couldn't understand why he wasn't getting it this time.
Some heavy duty assistance from the top rope finally got him through it, and paused and shouted down. "Now I understand. I used to be taller."
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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MH2 - The problem is your choice of sport and how you measure success.
Try golf. As you age, you will take more strokes - you scores will go up instead of down.
The pinnacle of success will be to shoot your age over 18 holes. Nobody under 60 has ever done that!
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richross
Trad climber
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Dick Williams still is very active.
I think he is around 70.
Taken yesterday.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Donini still cranks...
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Ah Andy your ears must have been burning Dick and I were talking about this very subject yesterday. We discussed our own increasing age and then speculated on the average age of a ST poster. After pulling me thru a couple of cruxes Dick suggested I start a "get in shape" regimen. I replied that I was going to start doing pull-ups. He replied: “At your weight pull-ups are the last thing you should be doing.”
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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But isn't Jim 107 or something? He says Italian climbers are long-lived.
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jstan
climber
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How a climber responds to age, it seems to me, depends a lot upon the reasons they had for climbing in the first place.
If you took it up to see how much you could advance your limit, when you can no longer advance it you will find other interests.
If you just liked the endorphin rush, you really missed out. Should have gotten into hiking or running which uses bigger muscles.
If you took it up looking for sexual partners, what can I say.
If you just liked coordinated muscle activity you probably will never stop.
If you liked fresh air you will probably stop climbing. So many people on the cliffs now the air is not as good.
If you just like interacting with a lot of people, you will probably switch to bridge.
If you were addicted to adrenalin, I would suggest the outlook is not hopeful.
If you can't bear to quit because of fear of growing old, it might be time to see a shrink.
Edit:
October 21,1967
Only reason I know is because that was the day my older brother was getting married. I must say his success that day has completely overshadowed mine.
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richross
Trad climber
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jstan,I think I pulled some muscles just looking at this today on my Skytop hike.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sort of on topic, what was the year and date of the first ascent of Foops? Henry Barber's second ascent seems to have been in 1973, but the sources suggest 1968, 1969 and 1970 as the FA date.
Edit: I see that Climbing in North America says it was 1967.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Gosh, I didn't recognize Dick Williams. . .
He was clothed. . .
The only other time I saw him was hanging from Shockley's Ceiling sans clothes!!!!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I think Marco has now offically aged past the point of being able to downclimb Foops.
---------------------------------------
After backing off to just dabbling in my 30's and 40's, I didn't really get back into climbing in a big way until 51. I'm about to turn 57 and (if I finish this year's seasonal comeback) am climbing at least within ballpark of my 20's. But, it's a much more brutal affair at this age requiring way more deliberate determination - 'the wave' of just absolutely digging it doesn't just carry me along like it did then.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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1967
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richross
Trad climber
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I was with Marco Fedrizzi a few times when he down climbed Foops.
I think I did around the fifteenth free ascent in 1976.
A whole slew of people did it that year.
I might hold the record with over 50 ascents.
I am 55 now.
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Barbarian
Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
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The good part about never being any good at this is that my skills can't decline with age...they don't have anywhere lower to go.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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"As I age I just adjust my measure of success to match my ego. "
That's my problem, I don't. My eyes still see the same lines and possibilities so cranking my body up to match them each spring has been the challenge. This will be my third year working on a fairly desperate line up through seven successive roofs that will likely end up 5.11+ or 5.12- and is already an R/X-rated affair getting up to the third and biggest roof. If we don't finish it this year I'll probably turn it over to my younger partner to do the deed as it's taking a toll on my shoulders.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Florine, Kauk, and Cashner keep wrecking my age related excuses.
Saw Rick at a music fest, smiling ear to ear, and he told me he climbs as hard as ever.
He says the secret is to be consistent and never let up. I think I get too lazy during the winters.
I can "almost" crank as hard as ever (cause fortunately I never trained back in the day and my technique has improved over the years) but I've got to get on the stick.
I can still climb much of the same stuff but the approaches hurt!
PEace
Karl
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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"I think I get too lazy during the winters."
Also my big problem. I dig in and work programming over the winters up here in Oregon so I can play when it's nice. Don't do any alpine related things either so it's a challenge to crank it all back up each year. Hard, as I usually have to lose 10-15 pounds, but I do it and in an odd, masochistic way look forward to it in recent years when that time rolls around again - sort of a 'grand' challenge of its own. It's got to be easier to just stay in shape, but I'm not really wired that way.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I climb for fun and a challenge. As I get older it's still fun and still challenging. A good partner and a good route, I don't care what grade, is all I need. If I can climb 5.4 when I'm 80 I'll be happier than a pig in sh#t.
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old toad
Trad climber
yosemite, Ca.
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Search the forum for Skelton... I don't want to hear any excuses for age!!!
Ron
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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well, you went through the 60's, so thats a couple of decades off your life right there, if you did it right.
all my friends are living wrecks also, so don't feel bad.
you still have your original teeth?
next time you black out, just whip out the bullet tooter and whiff up some peruvian flake, and maybe a couple of amyls, just in case.
you will have the heart of an alligator.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I still have all of my original teeth.
What's more, most of them are still in the same place.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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" A good partner and a good route, I don't care what grade, is all I need"
-words to live by at any age!
I'm 52d. It just doesn't come as easily as it used to.
Though if I work a bit harder, it seems to still be there.
Fuk, we're lucky to still be walking upright, we are truely blessed, to be having new adventures on the crags.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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I am still crazy about climbing though I don't get after it as much as I used to. Nothing is more fun than climbing with longtime partners. In these situations climbing becomes a sort of time machine where we can go backwards and be the fools we used to be rather than the fools we have become!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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you can not fall after 60.
it might mean a hip.
so after 60 climbers are the safest, right?
or at least, more safe.
slow and easy, enjoy the rock, speed climbing is for them young whipper snappers.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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"...If you just like interacting with a lot of people, you will probably switch to bridge..."
No. Bridge is too difficult.
Curt
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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52d LOL
What is ; 6 days from your birthday?
ddddddd+++++?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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I'm almost 58 and still climb pretty hard. I am about a number grade short of my best but I can guarantee I have more fun now. Part of the deal is I work 2 minutes from Stoney Point and I love to boulder. So every Tuesday and Thursday that the body doesn't have other plans I boulder. I am still competitive and so things hurt a lot, but bouldering with the 20 somethings is pretty rewarding so long as I manage to not overdo it. Climbing routes is a little more relaxed most of the time and spent just to be outdoors and hanging with friends. The only time I seem to get in really deep is in Tuolumne in the summer. There is just something about pulling on 11d knob routes that I find irresistible.
So, never give an inch, keep training, keep climbing, keep at it because if you stop it all goes away soooooo fast. And it is really hard to get back.
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Double D
climber
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Good times, pulling off a stiff grade with good partners... A+
Good times, pulling off a stiff grade without partners..... A
Good times no grade with good partners..................... A-
Good times no grade without partners....................... B+ (but still beats going to the gym!)
Just getting out there and being able to cruise is a blessing and for some of us... a miracle!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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If you just liked coordinated muscle activity you probably will never stop.
A comforting thought :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I'll interpret MH2's question slightly differently... as having climbed with him he exhibits all of the great qualities of a very long time climber, especially enthusiasm for getting out and climbing. I have enjoyed the few times I've gotten to climb with him and would do it a lot more if I lived anywhere nearby.
But there are changes in peoples bodies, both physical changes and physiological changes that are due to age.
A person's maximum strength is achievable in their mid-twenties, strength declines
after that...
here is a chart of record holders in various classes, the youngest record is the "world's record" and the others are the Master Age group records (M35, M40, M45, ... M100)
which demonstrates that highly motivated athletes see a continual drop off in performance with age, presumably related to their strength.
Now in climbing there is technique to get you through, but strength is still an important part of it, as is flexibility. Flexibility also reduces as one ages, and is related to exercise...
In addition, the metabolic rate decreases with age, and so it is harder to "work off" extra weight. I read somewhere that muscle converts to fat at about 2% per year, which is a lot, your weight stays the same... you are just weaker...
the mineral content of the bones changes
the cartilage changes
ligaments and connective tissues change...
So some reduction in aspects of climbing for aging climbers will be limiting.
Than again, maybe you were just having a bad day?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2009 - 01:34am PT
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Thanks, Ed!
I have nothing to lament or seek sympathy for.
Just trying to be objective, although like many a good scientist I have nudged the facts a little to better fit the hypothesis.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jesus,
Things go pretty much to hell after 70--better live for the moment.
Curt
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I'd be happy to just be able to pick up a shot put at 100 let alone hurl it five meters.
EDIT: I hurled a weight with string attached over a branch tonight in advance of hanging a bird feeder in a tree. The weight was a fair-sized rock inside a few plastic grocery store bags. Almost killed myself with the first toss as I didn't notice I was standing on the green-colored string in the grass - that baby went about twelve feet and came back at me fast, just missing taking my head off. Shot putting, indeed - clear the area...
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Ed, please soften the "x" axis by stretching it right a bit. Those drop-offs look pretty steep!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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I thought I read in Climbing mad a while back a 60 year old dude led 5.14.
Kind of makes 5.11 at 60 seem mild.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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refresh your caches... made the changes and added a quadratic fit to the data...
still falls off very quickly!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Why do I get the feeling that chart could also be used for the effect of aging on a pissing distance...
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Or angle of erection--absent Viagra, of course.
Curt
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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curt, I don't know about living for the moment, just appreciate each moment and make each moment count, it gets you ready for the next moment.
33 days, Ron
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Image linked from Cascadeclimbers. Fred Beckey a couple days ago....
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Ed's curves are for power sports in track and field. I'd expect the curves for various types of climbing to look very different. Most high-altitude climbers seem to peak in their forties, even later than marathoners.
Climbing is so technical and variable, that I doubt we can map it the way we can more straightforward competitive sports.
I'd bet that gyms will dramatically improve longevity for many older climbers. The single biggest problem for many folks is simply managing career and family responsibilities. Now that everyone can have a woody in the basement-- or at least around the corner--it ought to be a lot easier to stay in reasonably good shape.
Europe is just packed with old guys and gals pulling down hard.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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My first 5.8 lead and my first 5.9 lead stand out as clear and vivid as my most difficult alpine ascents. Whatever level I'm climbing, regardless of the number, is still fresh and exciting if it is near my limit. We will all see our physical powers wane, but the EXPERIENCE itself need not diminish.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2009 - 04:45pm PT
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the EXPERIENCE itself need not diminish.
AMEN to that, underline, bold, and exclamation mark.
Not as a conscious choice, but in review and reflection, I long ago decided that my climbing was more about the experience than about accomplishment. The two do not separate cleanly, though.
Here is my own plan for the arc of my climbing career. Given the amazing unrealized possibilities in most of us, I figured I could keep getting a little better every year until the upward progress collided with the age-related downhill slope of the ceiling.
Although I said I "nudged the facts" in the OP, it would be more in the spirit of objectivity to say that I reported them selectively to illustrate what I already know to be true.
Any problems at the moment may owe more to years of night shift sleep deprivation than to aging.
None of that matters when you see Beckey's cap set against the campanula(?)
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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FYI:
[url="http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/SeniorAthletes.html"]Senior Athletes[/url]
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 10, 2009 - 12:00am PT
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John, I am particularly like this part of your link:
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jun 10, 2009 - 12:06am PT
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Hmmm, don't remind me...No seriously though, back in the day we used to say "It's not what you're climbing, but who you're climbing with." referring to when you're out with your good friends no matter what the grade. (but I did climb a hard one or two back in my day...)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 10, 2009 - 12:09am PT
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I can feel myself declining just sitting here.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 10, 2009 - 01:44am PT
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I decline to answer all these questions, on the ground that it will incriminate me.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 10, 2009 - 01:50am PT
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The MH2 graph says it all for me!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jun 10, 2009 - 02:24am PT
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there's a study in progress at the Buck Institute w Kaiser Permanente regarding the ability of people over the age of 50 to increase muscle mass. Preliminaries show that this certainly happens with standard exercise and training. What is also shows is that although muscle mass can be added, it also is lost more quickly over weeks and months than for younger people.. meaning..
NO TRAIN NO GAIN
and a long couch binge is harder to overcome than it was in your twenties.
lots of research in medicine on the following topics:
the effect of inflammation, a complex cellular event that affects organs as well as muscle and cartilaginous tissue.
the difference between the effects of l o n g term stress and the effects of aging
complex metabolic cascading disorders such as the obesity, diabetes, joint pain, cardiovascular disease, dementia cascade
immune system function and the mind body connection
I think the upshot is to be cognizant of change in your body and adapt according to your goals.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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Jun 10, 2009 - 03:46am PT
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bump climbing content
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justaguy11
Trad climber
Birmingham,Al
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Jun 11, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
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I'm with the folks saying that you just need better cardio and less weight. I'm 51 and I let myself go for about 5 years due to...ummm....life and stuff, but I'm now 8 months into my 6 month fitness comeback and I'm leading hard 10 trad, middle 11 sport. If I get back to my previous "peak" (15 years ago), I'll be flashing trad hard 11 easy 12, sport hard 12. I'll come back and post here when I get there.
I do lots of trail running (better all body conditioning). I boulder with the youngsters (it pushes me to get stronger) and I change approaches when something starts to tweak (like a finger or an elbow). The trick is not to get injured during your comeback...and to know the diff between regular "I shouldn't have quit doing this" pain and "Hmmmmm, I just partially tweaked a joint/ligament/tendon by pushing too hard..need to let it heal".
Listen, carefully, to your body. Eat protein. Cross train your entire body and REESTABLISH YOUR AEROBIC FITNESS. After that, I don't see any particular limits.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 11, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
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I constantly see people talk about their trad vs. sport leading ability. Invariably they lead harder sport vs. trad. The only logical reason, if you know how to climb, for this to be so is the fact that sport ratings tend to be softer than trad ratings. Most sport climbs were put up after 1985 and there is no question that ratings have softened since that time. Case in point: Boulder Canyon sport vs. Boulder Canyon Trad, City of Rocks and Mt. Lemmon sport vs. trad, Little Cottonwood Canyon vs. Maple Canyon, Gunks compared to Romney- it goes on and on and on.
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Jun 11, 2009 - 11:12pm PT
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Is there a correlation regarding Ed's haircut and everyones hardman ness
???
there's a graph somewhere, I'm sure.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 12, 2009 - 12:51am PT
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how about for the Marathon?
looks like you really loose it between 80 and 86
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jun 12, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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whatever it is you do- NEVER QUIT just adjust your adventure to fit your age and fittness and have fun, thats the point of it all is'nt it?- Fred Beckey is the man
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Jun 12, 2009 - 01:21am PT
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I’ll pipe up on this one! After my trip back home to So Cal. I can still surf big waves, it just takes me four time as long to paddle out. I can still lead 5.11 but the approach up to Suicide is four times as long as I remember .
Still in love with it all !
Will never stop.
Bruce.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Jun 12, 2009 - 08:26am PT
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I'm not that old, yet, but now look at ledges where I once spent a night in a wool cap and bivy sack and say to myself, 'this is really a portaledge bivy'.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 12, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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Dear MH2,
Take up smoking! : )
Ciao,
Doug
And Gunkie, I know what you mean about portaledge bivy vs. bivy ledge. The guide shows camp 4 as a okay bivy for 2, and in '83 I spent the night there with five of us. (my partner & I plus 3 Venezuelans)
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 12, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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I knew I was getting old when I got injured from sleeping.
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TomT
Trad climber
Aptos.
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Jun 12, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
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I'm 55. It's still about stepping up to the rock with some fear and uncertainty, tie in and start up. There are an huge number of climbs out there to find that feeling again. I did Chingando a few weeks ago, and screwed up the pro, scraped the hell out of my arm and shoulder, got real scared..it was great.
Feels the same as when I was 18. I still love it and dream about it. I see that in Beckey's eyes, makes me happy to think I might get another 25 years of that.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jun 12, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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yes, your getting older... Be glad you've got these memories, and keep moving!!! LOL
Cheers
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 12, 2009 - 04:45pm PT
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Warning!!! The NIH has just released a bulletin that recent research shows that if you stop climbing you are likely to begin aging.
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nb3000
Social climber
the ass-end of nowhere
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Jun 12, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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My regular partner is 50. I'm 28. Whatever he lacks in ability he more than makes-up for in sh#t talking.
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luggi
Trad climber
from the backseat of Jake& Elwood Blues car
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Jun 12, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
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Where I really feel it anymore is the decent..climber trails down just have be on my butt half the time. The younger travlers just hurl themselves downward, in my view..I have to take more time...stuff just hurts after awhile and I know how long it takes to heal when things go sideways....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 12, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
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Donini, wasn't that in a Tom Petty song, "don't stop and you'll never get old"?
i'm dragging my 52d yr old carcass to the crags this weekend...
Moj, Dick Dale is king of way more than the surf guitar. He is an icon to many of us. I know you know this, but others may not, so , please indulge me. DD is a long time survivor of colo/rectal Cancer. At one point in I think maybe '69, he was about to die from it. This is reflected in the Jimi Hendrix song 'Third stone from the sun'. It is an instrumental piece, except at one point Jimi says, "Never to hear surf music, again". Jimi was talking about the likely any moment demise of Dick Dale. ( Hendrix died in '70, so I can't be too wrong about the dates). Dick pulled throough and is with us today, amazing. There are a number of recordings wherein he plays third stone, he usually utters an epitath first, the one I have, goes something like, "Jimi, I wish you were here now".
Whatever your age, rock like Dick Dale (or B.B King, Carlos Santana and others), or like Jimi would be showing us, had he made it through!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jun 12, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
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Dick Dale lives out here on the sand (along with Eric Burdon) and in a strange twist of fate......
Me and another poster on the Taco (Jim Wilcox) went to high school with Dick Dales bass player (Sam Bolle), who when not backing up D.D., is keeping the surf sound alive. Add to the story: Sams uncle I believe was Leo Fender, you know, the Strat etc.
Dick and Sam: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsPUfbGsMRg
Sams gig: http://www.myspace.com/slacktone
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 12, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
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The sand is proud tonight, and I think even Russ is still climbing in these, his advanced, years! just keep doing the math....
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jun 12, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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Jay,
If you keep on dancin' you'll never grow old!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 13, 2009 - 12:04am PT
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I'm packing my dancing shoes for this weekend, thanks Spyork! we have room in site 122 in the pinnacles if you have an inclination to head that way
you know how to reach me.
Maybe like
" I don' know,
but i been told,
keep on dancin'
you'll never get old..."
Sounds almost like the dead.
A touch of Gray suits me, anyway.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 13, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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Interesting juxtaposition that someone who does surf music lives in the desert.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jun 13, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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Dancin' over here, boss.
Dancin'! Yarrrrrr.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 13, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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hey there jaybro and spyork
say, i know the song...
dance, dance, dance... etc.. never grow old
????steve miller band, i rekcon????
say, i had heard that james cagney tap danced till late into his years, too... (hmm, though he may have smoked, or drank--i DONT know)... but still ....
yeah, keep moving, somehow... :)
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jun 13, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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Where I really feel it anymore is the decent..climber trails down just have be on my butt half the time.
On the way out of the Sierras we'd of course run into some youngsters charging up the hill, Ed would always make the offer,
"we'll go up twice for you if you go down twice for us" That guaranteed a puzzled look.
In my youth I always thought the old RCS bunch at Tahquitz walked sorta funny on the way down. I am now to all familliar with that gait.
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jstan
climber
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Jun 16, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
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Andy:
The only reason for living is to become old enough to get a golden turkey. Everything else is commentary.
Get dual citizenship and you can still bring it off.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Jun 16, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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The Stone Nudes thread has hit on some ageism issues. It made me think of two of my favorite books. The first one came out in 86 and I was entertained by it but couldn't really relate. I certainly do now, even though I am younger still than most of the subjects. It does give me hope for future years, too ! As strong and robust as these super senior athletes are, I'm not so sure an old dudes stone nudes calendar would be the best choice.
Susan
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Jun 16, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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Aarrggh. I don't need to be reminded. I just feel glad when I wake up and nothing hurts.
You wake up sometimes and nothing hurts?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 16, 2014 - 03:10pm PT
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Decline! I'll decline...as long as possible.
I would have to say the biggest change for me is recovery time...I need more. A long climb in the Black Canyon now MUST be followed by a rest day.....it's no longer optional.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jun 16, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
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I drove into my timber lot today, about 1 mile off the paved road, and came upon a mighty oak branch, about 1 foot in diameter, blocking my access. It fell off an ancient oak tree, which has been slowly decaying since I bought the property in 1970.
After clearing the road, and doing a number of other task, involving heavy lifting, I came home to clean up. I couldn't help but notice my perpetual bent over posture, like that old oak tree. You can't stop the aging process.
Accept it, and go on from there, since there are plenty of folks less fortunate, who never make it to old age.
I keep telling myself, pain is good, since it means I'm still alive.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 16, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
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It really doesn't matter if you climb or not, age-related decline is a fact of life.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2014 - 04:57pm PT
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Okay. So its been another 5 years. Am now thinking my trouble with Alaska Highway had more to do with night shift than age.
Getting older is good. Been using this for 3 years:
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Jun 16, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
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Age-related climbing incline = 30 degrees.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 17, 2014 - 07:25am PT
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Some 100-year-old dude chucked a shot-put more than 15 feet? Jeez, that's impressive.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2014 - 07:37am PT
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Decline is inevitable but not linear. I'm actually climbing better than at this time last year.
The only way to stop decline is to take an early pass to the Elysian Fields.
Yeah, those Senior Access Cards give you half price camping in lots of places....whoppee!
edit: Unfortunately yanqui you only have one chance in 5000 to see if you can put the shot 15ft. at age 100....probably less if you eat Argentinian beef every day.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:22am PT
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Unfortunately yanqui you only have one chance in 5000 to see if you can put the shot 15ft. at age 100....probably less if you eat Argentinian beef every day.
Ha! You mean like this:
Actually, except for the occasional social encounter (like asados with family or friends) I'm pretty much a (non-religious) vegetarian. But these Argentine asados sure are tasty.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:27am PT
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My physical decent continues. My happiness ascent continues. Retirement helps!
Embrace this day joyously people.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:34am PT
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Yanqui....about the only time I'll touch beef is in Argentina.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:41am PT
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Yall have barbecues down there?
The key to success in barbecues is slow cooking pasture-feed beef over wood coals (Quebracho is best) seasoned with just a little bit of salt. Add chorizos (a pork sausage), morcillas (a blood sausage) and assorted barbecued vegetables/bread as desired:
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 17, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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Getting back on track with the theme of the thread, here's a masters' record (probably) for climbing as this 61-year old Spaniard climbs 5.14a. OK, it ain't no 5.15c, but it ain't half bad, either. And it represents (I believe) a career best for "Novato".
PS: the title from the "Epic TV" video may be a little misleading because it seems the guy sent the 14a a couple of weeks before his 60th and I'm not sure he's done it since (in the video he's on a 13d). However, reading the Desnivel interview he does say the 14a was his hardest ever.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
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Too bad he didn't train properly. Taking 61 as his age and plugging in to moosedrool's graphs he was doing 5.23 at age 25, but unable to report it.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 17, 2014 - 07:24pm PT
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hey there say, susan... thanks for the book share... :)
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thebravecowboy
climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
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I still haven't shat myself while climbing. Is that asking for it?
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Jun 17, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
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Welcome to the old-timers club.
I used to onsight 5.12 trad and climb 10's and 11's without a rope.
Now at 65 I'm happy to lead a 5.9 and dog my way up anything harder.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jun 17, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
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I hear ya Ed; I'm pretty much in the same boat at 71.
Uh, well, except I never onsighted 5.12 trad.
And, um, never did anything 5.11 without a rope.
Ah, ahem, almost no 5.10's without a rope either.
But other than that...
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