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Messages 1 - 56 of total 56 in this topic |
Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 19, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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The obvious line of the Flakes????
Dave gets the first
Doug belays
Doug on P2
The view from P1
Dave gets the best pitch on #4
Doug follows P4
Doug leading P5
Doug on P6
Doug on the trverse to the anchor on P6
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 19, 2009 - 01:43pm PT
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Sweet!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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May 19, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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Where be dat? (in relation to other features, routes)
Looks fun, is it in Reid guide?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 19, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
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score!
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 19, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
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Wow, I'm really glad to see this! I've stood at the base looking for it, and I just didn't see it. Looks as fun as I'd imagine it to be.
Spyork: Far right side of North Apron of Middle Cathedral, at the start of the Gunsight gulley.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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May 19, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
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This TR is like a fine film... let the pictures do the talking! No need for verbal diarrhea and paragraphs of details... the photos tell all.
Nice. Very nice.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 19, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Jeff,
Very nice! Thanks for sharing.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 19, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
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very cool guys.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
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May 19, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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Great photos!
Fun Route? Chossy? Solid? Worth doing on a 98 degree day in early August?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 19, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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I always recommended "The Flakes." It is not a sandbag Sacherer 5.8, but it does require route finding and thoughtful protection and rope management. Of course I haven't done it in nearly 40 years, so I have not idea if it has any appeal nowadays. It seems like a great route at a moderate level to get started on MCR face routes.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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May 19, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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The Flakes was a very good route, not one for the 5.8 leader as it does require a bit more route finding and technical skill than allot of 5.8's. Kind of a Valley Alpine route.
Pitch 2, Jeff and Dave follow
Pitch 2, Jeff
Pitch 4 Dave pounding a pin, you don't need this on free climbs all that often anymore.
Pitch 4, This route hasn't been done for awhile, some of the cracks needed cleaning
Pitch 5, Jeff and Dave
Pitch 6, Dave follows the crux of the route
The Gunsight descent completes our alpine day with a rappel off a snow bollard
When asked to give a star rating to the route, you can tell who the sport climber in the crowd is: Jeff gives the route 1 star, Dave gives it 3.
Flanders
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 19, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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Sweet!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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Doug, you set me up.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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Nutjob, only the first pitch was obvious from the ground. You look up the wall at that big roof and think no way a 5.8 pitch can go through there, but it all works out, one of the coolest things about the route.
Mr T, It was a fun route and climbing with Doug and Dave was a blast. But, I was kinda gripped the whole way. It started with Dave telling Doug and I not to fall on the first pitch. Also there was a lot of loose rock, although we got rid of a bunch of it. The climbing on the 4th, 5th, and 6th pitches is very cool. The traverse off was very loose with little pro.The 4th class off had a few slick spots, eh Doug?
Warbler, those are Dougs climbing shoes.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 20, 2009 - 12:05am PT
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Middle Cathedral Rock - The Flakes
III, 5.8. Frank Sacherer and Mark Powell, June 1964. Upon entering the narrowing talus gully of the Gunsight, it will be possible to see on the left a nebulous system of flakes shooting up the face of Middle Cathedral. Fope up below the right side of a small buttress studded with trees and climb 5.6 flakes for 140 feet. Traverse up and over 5.8 face climbing for 120 feet. Belay at a ledge in line with an overhanging dihedral formed by flakes. Pitch 3: climb up, then traverse over rotten blocks to the left. Ascend moderate jamcracks and belay on a large block. Next, a difficult step right leads to a dihedral; cross this and continue traversing 30 feet, then ascend 60 feet to a belay ledge. Pitch 5: from the left end of the bleay ledge, climb toward overlapping flakes. Difficult liebacking leads to a belay ledge. Step right, make a difficult move, then climb toward a bolt 30 feet above the belayer. Move left and traverse up and left to a belay ledge. Pitch 7: traverse right and up over broken ledges to 3rd class climbing leading to easy ledges which run right toward the Gunsight. Carry 12-15 pitons for this fine climb; horizontals to a 1 1/2" angle.
From the green Roper (1970) guide.
Nice TR!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 12:25am PT
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There is no longer a bolt on P6 per Roper. There was a bolt added for the belay on P6 though. Although, I found a good anchor to the right and did not use the added bolt.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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May 20, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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Jeff,
Set up you? Who me? would never ever consider such a low life thing.
I would agree though, that climbing such a classic route with you and Dave
was a very cool thing !
Jeff made the comment re: some loose rock on the route. Here's the before and after pictures of the start of the route.
Flanders
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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May 20, 2009 - 03:19am PT
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This is why I come to this site!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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May 20, 2009 - 10:01am PT
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Awesome.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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May 20, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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Sweet! Nice ta meetcha the other day dave.
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Colt
climber
Midpines
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May 20, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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Great TR! Thanks for sharing.
Also, if Jeff is the "sport climber" in the group that would make me the indoor plastic puller...who wears lycra...and only own slippers...and cross trains with roller blades.
Nice work!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 20, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
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Always wanted to do it but never got around to it. Seems like a good mid-summer route.
I hear the topo for it is bogus.
Peace
Karl
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
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Karl, the topo is fine, just draw in a few pins and a bolt on the left P6 anchor.
Jeff
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 09:19am PT
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I had a Walleye sighting yesterday!!!!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 10:27am PT
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Walter, if you had your way , I would be guiding Snake Dike every day!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 10:42am PT
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Naw Walter, we miss you there! Life was so cheery with you in the office!
Speaking of the man in charge, gotta run.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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May 24, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
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Walleye,
We might need you to come out of exile. Swilliam P. Russell is planning a coup
at YMS, and we sure as hell couldn't have him running the show, not all of
us like Old E that much. Couldn't be Jo-nan W. either as some of the crew is allergic
to cats. It could be me, but that would mean we'd all be at the chapel for Sunday services. You're the most logical choice mate! Better start tuning up you're people skills for SHOWTIME !!!!!!
Doug (only an occasional potlicker)
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
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Jun 18, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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You really need iron for this thing?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 18, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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Jeff, Doug and Dave - thanks for all the cool photos, beta, and upgrade on the fixed pins! I'm psyched to get on it this summer.
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Barbarian
Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
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Jun 18, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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Great TR! Man, that thing looks a bit old school. Sure doesn't look like it has been done in a while. How about it....anyone else do this in the past five years? Post up!
How long does it have to go between ascents before it falls into the obscurity category?
I think your TR has generated some interest...I'll bet it gets a few more ticks during the hot days to come. Might have a go at it when I'm up there this fall.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Nov 16, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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Bump!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 16, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
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I had a false start in the vicinity this past summer. We needed to get up earlier and budget more time for getting lost/downclimbing than we had, so we didn't try again. Maybe next year.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
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I started up it with a couple of n00bish friends thinking it would be an appropriate outing. We bailed.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Nov 16, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
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Right on!
Tork, your last shot was a beauty.
Looks like someone needs to clean the gutters on that route.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Nov 17, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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I started up it with two very experienced friends BITD. Got a late start ("so which climb shall we do today?" fiasco), route finding problems, got benighted on P7. Stuck ropes on 2 rappels. Walked back into C4 at midnight. In February.
It's STILL on my tick list.
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Byran
climber
Merced, CA
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May 18, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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We did The Flakes a few weeks ago, and i was mostly inspired to do it because I had seen this thread a while back, so I thought i'd bump it again.
Great climb, pretty solid and clean overall I thought, but also full-on for 5.8. Too much bouldering and not enough trad climbing had made my legs weak. Lots of sewing machine leg while standing runout on sloping footholds trying to get in some small wires, but I guess I've always felt like a noob on Middle Cathedral rock. It's got plenty of scary Type 2 fun, but it's also got a lot of awesome "hero" climbing on steep juggy holds with lots of air under the heels. The views are pretty killer too, but I suppose that goes for any route in the Valley. It was a bit chilly when we climbed it, but I'd imagine it would be a good one for June. The headwall is super steep and shades the route pretty well until afternoon.
Here's my route description
http://mountainproject.com/v/the-flakes/107613441
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 18, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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missed this the first time around. an adventure route for sure. 5.8++ to 5.12 depending on how you find your way. Really pays off to squint and scope.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 19, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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The Flakes! Not your average Walk in The Park.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Oct 29, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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Bump cuz this one is on the hot list.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Sick!! Thanks for this! This is on my tick list now!!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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I think I recommended this route to ya, Big Mike. Ah, well. If I didn't, Then sorry I didn't....Totally worthy & thoughtful route.
A somewhat other than clip & go route, as it were.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
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You did sir but central pillar was higher on the list.. next time!!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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The start of the route looks so ideal with all those little edges.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Dec 25, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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Thanks for posting this to MP, Bryan.
Anyone have more beta on the run out? Sounds like the crux 5.8+ move is run out on pitch 6?
Edit:
Is is Great Pumpkin R or Goodrich Pinnacle R?
Ed
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 25, 2015 - 10:33pm PT
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Seems like there are lots of pussy-cats checking out this route, which I have considered one of my top five favorites for a long time, over thirty years.
I make that assertion having climbed it CLEAN, no pins, at least half the time. And that's Old School Clean, nothing but stoppers & hexes & a Moac.
Don't forget your helmets and think about that run-out all night long.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Dec 26, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Ed, get Jaywood on it....
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 26, 2015 - 11:05am PT
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Nice look at the route. Never heard of it before this.
Gotta say, I hope this isn't how your partners normally "belay". If I look down and my belayer isn't even holding the rope, while f*#king around with a camera or something, we're going to have a bit of a "discussion". I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and hope the leader just hasn't placed any gear yet.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 26, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
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Very good assessment, Kevin.
It's a separator twixt hardmen and boys.
Sorry you've missed it.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
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Flanders slinging flakes on The Flakes
Dave on the money pitch
Flanders following the crux pitch
Fancy feet Flanders
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 27, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
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Roper called it "airy."
He wasn't lyin'.
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gumbyKing
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Dec 29, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
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Great photos. Looks like a fun jaunt.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 18, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
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From Clint - thanks!
The Flakes.
It's one of those routes, "A 5.8 for 5.10 leaders". I did it in June 2014.
The start may be a little hard to find. The start shown in several photo trip reports here was recently "grid bolted over" by several short climbs.
The original start is further down left, shown correctly in the topo.
The original start is seasonally wet, though, so the other start may be helpful.
p2 immediately gives you some delicate climbing on somewhat sketchy gear.
Would probably have protected well with pitons. Now it's shallow nuts and somewhat runout moves on 5.8/5.9.
Plus there are 2 choices of cracks to follow and it's not clear which one is better.
Pitches in the middle often have face climbing to unseen ledges.
Eventually there is a long crack pitch (felt like some 5.9 moves).
Then the crux pitch, with a crimp move to dyno for a better hold, with gear well below your feet. The topo shows climbing out left instead, but that's fairly slick.
The upward diagonalling exit pitches are easy, but the rock is brittle / loose / little gear.
It got dark on us at about that point, but fortunately I was familiar with how to rap off where it crosses Border Country.
The alternative is a bushwhack down the shoulder and then some raps and downclimbing in the Gunsight.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 18, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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Ed H--
That last 4th class section is easy, the ground is not too steep. I've never minded a bit of bushwhacking if I can avoid a rap. I've heard from SAR folk and the Mtn. Shop (two years ago) that there are fixed lines in the descent gully.
Just be certain to get an early start on The Flakes if you've not done it before--as Clint intimates, it's a bit of a challenge of the leader's route-finding skill.
This climb is a shady lady, in the shade on a hot day--and there's some breeze coming through the Gunshight.
All the belay stations are roomy enough for three, I thought.
One benefit of an early start is that the interested party might take some time to wander along Bridalveil Creek--at this time it's roaring full.
Also, it's a chance to bag the summit of LCR, which I've never done. I could kick myself for not having taken the opportunity.
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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May 28, 2016 - 08:18am PT
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Did it yesterday. Interesting.
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