Discussion Topic |
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dustonian
climber
Foresta
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2009 - 10:56am PT
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Anyone got a cheap source on these?
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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May 14, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Go to the Fish website.
He may or may not have them in stock.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 14, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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He said "cheap source" locker. Guessing there are much cheaper sources than HD.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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May 14, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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locker said: "Home Depot"
Yeah, what a buy! They even provide a sticky label that sez, "Not safe for hoisting personnel..."
What a bargain.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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MOOCH:
FYI, none of the chain or hooks or screw links you see in climbibg are "Rated For Lifting People"....
GRADE 80 is for lifting people -Uncommon and very expensive-
Typical chain rap anchor is grade 30... General perpose...
The chain/hooks used to hold vehicles on a trailer are only grade 70.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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May 14, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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This:
and this:
are not the same as this:
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Zombi: re: your second link
Those hooks are appearing in the Tahoe area.
THEY ARE NOT GOOD!
The hook attaches to the chain with a pin going through the small ears on the hook and through the chain.... That pin is then secured with an (approx) 1/8" cotter pin.
The cotter pins are weak to breakage, they rust, and in my opinion are not acceptable for climbing anchors.
Do you and / or others agree?
EDIT: MisterE beat me to it
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pimpdaddy
climber
manchester, vermont
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May 14, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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Is that Clarks canyon
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 14, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
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Those look unacceptable from about every perspective and makes you wonder about some folks' capacity for common sense.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
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May 14, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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I'd wait until our new ones come out this Winter:
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 14, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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These days, you'd probably need one that big since everyone seems to have decided that it's okay to burn through the anchors when lowering off routes. Sooze can back me up on this one...
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Dec 12, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 12, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
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Draco is listed at $22 a pop on the Fixe site.... That is pretty steep. If you can get them for $7.00, go for it.
Besides that, I just today got an assload of Mussy Hooks delivered. First time in like two years. They are $5 a pop. The Quick Links that go with them are $2 a pop. Anyone interested email me (not using the PM feature here coz it sucks) at:
FishProductsInfo over at gmail.com
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 12, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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Da Fish comes thru again
!!!!!!!
Hooray!!!
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Dec 13, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Agree. The ones with the cotter pins showing up in the Tahoe area are scary. I would be happy to buy some from Fish and then donate them for people putting up routes in the Emeralds and Bowman.
Erik
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MisterE
climber
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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Even worse are some we found while extending too-short "new" anchors in a VERY popular area:
They are basically the same cheap knock-offs as the cotter-pin ones, but these have bolts with just regular nuts on them.
When we turned the rig around (the nut was at the back on the short anchor), I twisted the first nut off with my fingers. No washer, no LOCK-washer, no Nylock, and no Loctite - nothin'. Horrendous. The other one was at least wrench-tight - but just barely. Bomber as a lead anchor (fall to your last bolt), but bad news as a TR anchor.
We added 4 links, tightened the sh1t out of everything, then called the First Ascentionist for permission to replace.
It was given with clear specifications.
We both definitely got kind of spooked on that. Glad we check out things that suck.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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I bought a bunch of mussy hooks from Russ when I was actively developing in Northern AZ. Still have a bunch. Now I keep a pair with me and if it feels right offer them up for folks to swap out junk with.
There's just not enough rock in Colorado to do any development so I might as well....
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Dec 13, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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I must be pretty unsafe because I just don't see a problem with the hooks with the pin and cotterpin, not that I've ever installed this style. I've looked, but they seem too big, but more than bomber enough to lower my fat ass. And there's two. I'd trust the pin more than a bolt, unless it was grade 5 or stronger, at least the pin was rated. Overall, I worry more about the rope.
Bomber as a lead anchor (fall to your last bolt), but bad news as a TR anchor.
I thought we weren't supposed to be TRing through the anchor anyway.
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MisterE
climber
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Dec 13, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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Nice, Nature.
ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES!
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Dec 24, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Dec 24, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
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gate like with the mossy hook, and $5 cheeper then the fixe draco and $20.65 cheeper then the dmm captive eye, but i am sure all you arm chair climbers here on super taco will have something to whine about on this set up like, you should be able to clip off the anchor and feed the rope through the anchor and retie in, or blah blah blah, or with 30 kn hold a factor 5 fall, blah blah blah or webbing is way cheeper blah blah blah :-) happy climbing/ happy holidays mike a.
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tr4
climber
Tuolumne Meadows, Ca
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Dec 25, 2013 - 04:52am PT
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Hey Im the Climb Tech Rep for South West. Check out these
http://www.climbtechgear.com/permadraws/
I can offer any one 20-30% off depending on size of orders from any thing on the site. You can write me at elr4athotmail
Happy to help out anyone repairing or developing routes and areas
Thanks Ted
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Hate em. They teach people to be stupid and lazy and it is a large mass of metal that is pretty high visual impact. this is the anchor that I use the most.
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Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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So, like why are they called 'Mussy Hooks' anyway?
Has one ever wore-out and been replaced?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Tradman, good to see that I'm not the only one who finds them to be unsightly.
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Do they ever wear out? Well maybe every now and then ;-)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Ugly and teach stupidity.....
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Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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Tony Puppo,
Thanks for sharing the picture of how much one of those Mussy Hooks can be worn down by use.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Somebody needs to design a low friction bushing setup for high grit areas like the Owens River Gorge that eat steel up producing the kind of wear that is evident in Tony's photo.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sorry.. I'm a hater.
Love ya Russ
Just hate the mussys.
Reasons: Bulky, ugly, awkward to clip into, invariably installed so that they are laying in some way that makes them a pain to deal with. The only time they seem to work well is if they are free-hanging.. yet, for some reason people insist on installing them weirdly.
Friends don't let friends install mussys.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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If you people actually used your own gear on anchors instead of TRing sh#t to death and lowering through the "chains" there would be no need for Mussy Hooks.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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^ The truth. I love Mussy Hooks, but I I don't think the humid conditions here would be very kind to them.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Russ +1
That Mussy hook pictured above looks like it's been used to top rope thousands of times.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I thought the gates/springs broke on the mussys before they wore down like that.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Simple, fast and built to last - not pretty but effective. I've been sold on 'em since the beginning.
In the time it took that pictured mussy to wear out I bet you would have replaced a half dozen of any other anchor out there.
It's not the perfect solution....just the best one out there for the job.
I'm getting them in circulation at the Auburn quarry as fast as I can.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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i am a old school climber, i started climbing with bill price who i have known him since kindergarten, and back then there were no friends or bd camlots, nor harness's no gri-gri's, it was hip belay, or sticked plate, hex's, stoppers, tie in the rope a couple raps around the waist with a bowlen, hand drill 1/4 bolts, so would any have you who climb now use old school style to climb today??? no is the answer!!! that is like saying i want to buy a new car with no air bags or fuel injection, or abs nor ac or awesome sound system, if new stuff makes climbing safer and convenient why would you not use it?, if youall want to climb old style climbing then by all means do so, and if there are too many bolts and mussy hooks on the route don't use them , but remember this, jesus would clip that bolt :-) happy climbing mike a.
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Brad Johnson
climber
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"Agree. The ones with the cotter pins showing up in the Tahoe area are scary. I would be happy to buy some from Fish and then donate them for people putting up routes in the Emeralds and Bowman.
Erik"
OK Erik, here's your chance. We're putting up routes at the Emeralds. It would be great if someone would chip in for hardware. Lots of new routes equals lots of money invested. PM me if you're for real.
It's our intent to replace the pin style musseys. Actually intended to do it this last summer but got side tracked putting up new routes. We'll replace them in the early spring. Sorry if it freaked anybody out.
As a side note, many of the newer routes don't have anchor chain so bring webbing until we get that sorted out.
Brad and John
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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if it wasnt for rusty, salt covered 1/8" cotter pins the wheels on your car would fall off while driving.
when you get all of those hooks replaced in Tahoe I'll take the old ones
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Brad Johnson
climber
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Not all of Tahoe, just The Emeralds and only the musseys that have pins. I like musseys for sport climbing and will continue to use them but this type would get kinda spooky several years down the road.
It's what we had at the time. Their strong and safe when new and probably strong enough several years later. I'm just not willing to take that risk.
Live and learn.
Brad
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TREED
Trad climber
Gunks
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Lazy and cheap is no way to go through life.
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Brad Johnson
climber
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Lazy and Cheap? Wow, what a moron.......
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Brad,
Sent you a PM requesting how many to start and what type you would like. Please let me know if you don't receive it.
Erik
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Brad Johnson
climber
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Erik
Got your PM. Thx very much for the offer of hardware. I'll talk to John tomorrow and get back to you via email.
Brad
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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"Lazy and Cheap? Wow, what a moron......."
Gunks, what can you say eh? its the epicenter of the new anchor police, now that they have 20 bolted anchors they are all experts now
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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call it what you will but INMOP they are some ugly ass anchors;)
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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If the Mussy's with the cotter pin are installed with the cotter pin on the side away from the rock, even if the cotter pin were to fall out, the installation would not fail. They are safe if installed properly and even if they aren't installed properly it would be very difficult for them to fail. We always install two so there is redundancy in the system. I would need a math major to calculate the chances for two that are installed improperly to fail. Probably in the order of 1,000,000 to 1.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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This is a Mussy Hook:
Anything else should be called by a different name.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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How many of those rigs do you gotta buy to get a free taint abrader. I spied some prime natural lines. Once I gets the trees out of sit starts, the place will be epic. The abrader should help with the training for the opening moves.
allez in advance
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Where is dingus McGee and the 10 cent hangers. Bet he can come up with something that works as well for 10% of the money.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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What a bunch of pussies.
Just clip it and turf.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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I prefer Leeper hangers. It feels so good when you don't die.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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that is some ugly ass sh#t. at least paint it whatever color rock you are working with..
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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on 9/0/2013 I purchased mussy hooks for $2.04 each and quick links for $.91 each from U.S. Rigging http://www.usrigging.com/pdfs/pelican-rope-catalog-2013.pdf To get these prices you need a minimum order of $100. In their catalog the Tow Hook Forged (Mussy) is on page 66 and the Quick Link 5/16 is on page 64. These Mussy hooks are not the kind with the Cotter Key.
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Bill Mc Kirgan
Trad climber
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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So, I was wondering how the name, 'Mussy Hook' was coined and found this:
Fish is also the man who introduced the climbing world to the greatest thing since Friends: The Mussy Hook. This sickly strong anchor, (which bears the name of Fish´s other alias) is the new rage in anchor technology.
^^^ from: http://www.safeclimbing.org/news_archive.html
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 21, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
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@ Locker ~
Yeah Man, I just got hip to 'climbtech' through the rigger's world ;)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 21, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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Climbtech has great stuff!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 21, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
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Mussys rule. You can just clip and drop. Good to go ...
"Lazy and cheap is no way to go through life. WHAT!? Are youse sure? I thought that WAS the way to do it....lazy and cheap....mmmmmmmmYes!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jan 21, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
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Auburn Quarry.... I think there are some on the way! Happy clipping Drudes!
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 21, 2014 - 10:47pm PT
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Mussy....
Man behind the "mussy hook", innovator, dipsomaniac, handy-man, climber, sh#t-talker, seamster, equestrian enthusiast......
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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| Messages 1 - 61 of total 61 in this topic |
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