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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 2, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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When I first showed up in the Valley in 1970 the Spring monsoon was going full bore. Generator Crack had just been discovered and being one of the few overhanging pieces of rock in the Valley, it was the perfect place to get some exercise. My first time there I couldn't get up the damn thing, but the monsoon persisted and we soon began making daily pilgrimages. The days rolled on wet and cold and Generator Crack was tamed. First right side, then left side in followed by right side in solo and on and on. Eventually I got to where I was soloing it with running shoes on. Finally the monsoon ended and damn- I could go wide.
A couple of years later I drove into Camp 4 and bumped into TM Herbert. TM immediately told about his secret project. "Donini, I've discovered one of the last good lines out there. I've been looking at it with my birding binoculars, let's do it." TM was pretty guarded about where this climb was, he told me to meet him the next day and we would hike up and spend the night and do the climb the next day. "Don't worry" he said, "I really checked it out, I'll bring the gear, I know just what we need." FAMOUS LAST WORDS
The next day we started up the endless switchbacks leading up out of Mirror Lake. Eight long, hot, dusty miles later we came across a trail sign that said: Porcupine Flats 2 miles. TM looked at the sign, his jaw dropped, and he sprawled on the trail and began beating the ground with his fists. We now new a better way to the climb.
TM"s plan was to bivouac above a steep, heavily wooded gully that led to the base of the climb. Good idea....except for the mosquitos. TM immediately fell asleep seemly impervious to the hovering swarms of mosquitos. Not me, I spent the entire night slapping the damn things, and I nearly near took out my frustration on a blissfully sleeping TM with the piton hammer that lay nearby.
TM woke up in good humor and led us down the brush choked gully to the climb. I'll never forget the look on TM's face when he looked up at the line, his jaw dropped as he sheepishly emptied his pack of the hardwear he had picked. Out dropped knife blades, lost arrows, even a few rurps and precious few nuts hand sized or larger. This was way before Friends became available. Unfortunately, the impressive crack system that rose above us had a lot of very difficult looking wide sections. TM apologized for his mistake as I was suggesting he get new binoculars and that he get his eyes tested. Having endured a hot, dusty hike and a nearly sleepless night, I was in no mood to bail without giving it a try.
TM wasn't comfortable with wide cracks so the sharp end fell to me. Things went okay until the crux pitch. There were some interesting run outs and a lot of back cleaning of the few pieces that we had that worked. As I recall the crux pitch was steep and it steepened even more near the top. I ended up doing a lot of sketchy back cleaning and strenuous climbing up and down to get the pieces I needed. I never lowered off of a piece because I didn't think it was fair and also, frankly, I didn't completely trust some of my gear to hold body weight. Finally wasted by my efforts, I gave in, did a single point of aid and finished the pitch. What followed gave me the line that as a medicare climber I now use as my only climbing command. TM, eyes wide, reluctantly started up the pitch. A fierce struggle ensued followed by a weak "up rope" from TM. "What was that" , I said, and a more forceful "up rope" floated up from below. I pulled the rope in tight, another "up rope." I pulled the rope tighter, "up rope" again, louder a little more desperate. "TM, I'm pulling the rope as tight as I can." The final plaintive plea from TM, "up rope, I'm not moving."
TM recovered nicely and led a steep, more fingery crack up higher. Back in Camp 4 I ran into Bridwell and Klemmons and made the tactical mistake of telling them about the easier approach from Porcupine Flats and also what gear was needed...duh! The rest is history.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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A++ Nice!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Thanks, Jim!
More, MORE, MORE the crowd shouts!!!!!
(like how's about Torre Egger!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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sweet.
miles of needless hiking to a mosquito bivouac followed by poorly protected wide.
the sport climbers are giving thanks right now that they missed out on the golden age.
hehe
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burntheman
Trad climber
slt
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^^ ha! awesome. thanks for sharing.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Great story, I can only imagine :D Thanks for the share.
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MH2
climber
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Many thanks.
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Mimi
climber
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Good story, Jim! Hope's there's much more to follow.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Like a puppy dog I piddle on the floor of my office in excitement.
/my tongue wagging
:)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> "Don't worry" he said, "I really checked it out, I'll bring the gear, I know just what we need." FAMOUS LAST WORDS
So true!! :-) I have been there before.
Something about the drawbacks of secrecy.
I've blundered in similar ways on new route attempts. I'll see a potential route when climbing nearby, but not go back to check it out for a couple of years. By then, I usually have forgotten about what was wrong with the climb, just remembering the positives. In the meantime, I've dragged a partner out to the middle of nowhere, usually to find something not so worthwhile.... Fortunately you guys did find a good route.
P.S. Generator Crack was first climbed prior to 1963. Source: Peter Haan:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=693540
So perhaps it was "re"discovered in 1970.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Great story, Jim!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Yeah. Thanks Jim for posting on Basket Case. Good story and, I hear, a great climb.
I razzed TM about laybacking: "the technique of no technique," after Basket Case. It is the only time, TM looked threatening. Climbing with TM was so much fun.
Great name, by the way.
More stories please. The rest of us are about plum out. Resorting to bumping. Unsightly and potentially dangerous at our age.
Best, Roger
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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ROTFLMAO. Sweet story.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Great story telling, Jim
I seem to remember you being naturally good at all sorts of crack climbing, wide and otherwise.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Great tale, thank you, very much, Jim
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Yeah, nice!
So what was sticking out of the glacier below Torre Egger?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Short but sweet. What a great tale!!
Thanks Jim
Having been in a few valley epics myself, I can just see it going down....that was great.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jim: I marveled at your ability to pull that dangling, gear-dropping, over-weight Polish climber up the crux over-hang on the Snaz in the Tetons in 1982! (As Kevin & I cowered below).
Guiding must have built those muscle groups up after Yosemite.
Good to see more stories from you! Fritz (Ray Brooks)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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I should post more often. Roger Breedlove, Phil Gleason, and Ray Brooks- how are you guys? Roger, do you remember Overhang Overpass?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Did anyone mention how powerful the art of understatement is?
Just sayin'
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Great story Jim!
I can just hear TM calling for tension! Too funny.
Have you told the tale of Fallout with Steve Wunsch in 72. The dark line up behind Camp 4?
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Hey Jim,
Great story. And by the way how are you? I think about our days together back in the Valley a lot. Some good memories. You taught me a lot. I can't help but think your belay tactics changed sometime after Basket Case. Remember that time on Gripper when I was calling for tension and you yelled down, "You don't get any tension!" and fed me a bunch of slack instead and I hurtled off into space. Pretty funny! No pulling me up. I always thought your FA of Overhang Overpass was proud. Did I show you that?...I believe I did. It was on my hit list that spring for a FA. I tried it once early in the year with Charlie Porter. I backed off leaving a 2" bong? in the crack. (I think). It was early in the year and it looked hard up there and I wasn't quite fit. A parallel crack with--hard to get pro (thats what I remember. That was the spring I tweaked my finger and missed out on so many ascents! Damn. Anyway good to hear from you. Write some more!
Chappy
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I recall Werner saying something about wanting to repeat O O on a rack of nuggets!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Good story, Jim! Now let's hear that Overhang Overpass tale...?
JelloRemembersAScaryAssSoloOutOfAPakistaniGorgeLookingUpAtDonini'sSkinnyButtAndHopingHeDoesn'tFall
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WBraun
climber
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Overhang Overpass
I believe Jim probably lead it with nuts and EB's. A lot tougher to do than with fires and friends, and now with modern gear and shoes.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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thanks Jim! great story which illustrates what an FA adventure is all about...
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WBraun
climber
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On Basketcase approach.
Me Shipley and Coz hiked in from porcupine flat also but got caught in a rain storm after the first or second rappel down. We had to bail.
I still believe it's probably faster and easier to do the approach from the bottom.
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scuffy b
climber
4 to 8
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Hey, thanks for telling this great story.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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There was one season when I did a bunch of wide cracks and I always wanted to do Basket Case but never did. Sound's like a fantastic climb.
JL
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
smith river Ca.
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What a great story Jim, the back cleaning makes my hands sweat just thinking about it. I never tried basket case it was beyond the limits of my approach-o-meter aka the lazy ometer, although truth be told the real reason is the thing scared the s#@t out of me,from all the stories I'd heard. Phil Gleason introduced me to the generator crack in 68 I failed miserably the first few trips but eventually started to get the hang of off widths after a few months in the valley. I've often wondered if it were not for generator to train on if I would ever had had the technique or confidence to tackle the other valley off widths. great to hear your still climbing hard as ever, your truly an inspiration.
Barry Bates
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Barry Bates! The legends are rolling in! For the Bates Problem on Columbia Boulder alone, a modest shrine to you sir. Welcome.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
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I just want the climbing world to know, as if it doesn't know already, That Wunsch and I were always in awe of Barry. Never before , and probably never again, have I seen or will I see someone look so naturally at ease on rock. Barry, you were sooooo smooth!
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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This thread is what its all about! What a joy to read. Thanks!
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scuffy b
climber
Frigate Matilda
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Say, is the topo in the guide book accurate or are there
5 or 6 approach pitches or some other trickery?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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we should just go up and see, scuffy
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Scuffy and Ed,
There are no approach pitches whatsoever if you come from the Tioga Rd/Porcupine Flat spot. I don’t know about coming from below. JB/Klemens and my party came from above.
It is a hike downward, actually very pleasant until you are alongside the dome descending the vegetation in the shallow gully, no rock climbing in there. This latter part of the approach is a semi-bitch but doesn’t last too long and it really helps that you are using gravity to thread through the flattened scrub---it all points downwards from the snowpacks. Also, this approach is fairly obvious as you go along and doesn’t have some horrid trick to it.
Another virtue to the route is how it builds from a nice short 5.8 first pitch to 5.9 to 5.10 to 5.11b slowly in the seven leads, #5 being the crux, all while the rock is incredibly good. Some routes are tough right off the ground and thereby seem more stout than they actually might be. And the protection is always good; the kind of fall you would take is always a rather safe one---no horrifying natural features such as guillotine flakes or broken ground. I characterize this route as a very happy kind of harder route, not scary. The crux is very hard but it is also only a short section of less than 10 feet on top of much easier offwidthing that is slowly tapering down. I would characterize the Twilight Zone, for example as very serious and fearsome and this climb as beautiful, encouraging and subtle.
If you actually were unable to do the crux, you can aid a few feet like Donini and Herbert did; it is not mandatory free climbing. I say this because you would not want to hike back up and out from the base to the road----that would be some hours of very unpleasant whacking fighting the scrub that as I say, points downwards vigorously.
Anchors were all natural; when I did the 2nd free on it; there were no bolts and none were needed.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Neat stuff.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Ed, Scuff, I believe my new scramblers™ would be ideal for this approach, even the waterfall.
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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I see Basketcase getting alot of traffic this season.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Such a great story!
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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yeah!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there donini... say, what a great share....
say, i just had to zero in on this... things just aint always what they seem from the far-off lure of a great view, huh:
TM apologized for his mistake as I was suggesting he get new binoculars and that he get his eyes tested.
but--somehow, it's always still worth it... ;)
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Jim -
Great story. Very fun to read. This and your story about the axe behind the back straight into the tree.
Very fun indeed.
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L
climber
Waist deep in 'gators and still grinnin'...
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"Up rope...I'm not moving..." Too funny, Jim.
What a great story...and it makes me feel so much better for using that simple line any time I find my self in an off-width. Many thanks!
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damage
climber
olympia, wa
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Thanks for the stories, kinda feel like i missed out on something.
At least I found st, I can armchair the experiences.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there wow... somehow i missed it: chappy was here posting back in april.. oh my... :)
say, just stepped in to say:
sure hope you do post more often! donini... :)
wonderful story... i read it again... :)
enjoyed seeing my brother's post, too...
:)
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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So I've been assuming the approach from above is around at line 1 but then looking at the pic I started thinking maybe line 2. Anybody? I remember Werner says coming from the bottom is faster.
Zander
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Zander, it is line #2.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 17, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
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Yeah, Jim. . .
How about Torre Egger???????
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Mar 18, 2010 - 10:28am PT
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bump....for a great on topic post
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pc
climber
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Mar 18, 2010 - 11:35am PT
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Great story! Thanks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
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Bump!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
Will know soon
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Apr 18, 2010 - 06:45pm PT
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Super great story Jim Donini. :D I enjoyed every sentence.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 13, 2010 - 10:50am PT
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Once and future Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 25, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
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Story Bump!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Thanks for the bump Steve. I was psyched you'd done that because I'd not seen this before...that is until I see I posted in April of 09. What a crudy memory I have! Still, great reading. :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 01:00am PT
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awesome line bump
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Dec 22, 2011 - 05:30am PT
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Haha good one! Thanks for sharing the story, Mr Donini.
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Dec 22, 2011 - 09:27am PT
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A good laugh. Thanks for sharing!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:28am PT
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basketcase
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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It was fun to read this story again.
It brings back the fond memories of the too few times I climbed with T.M.
I bet his grandchildren have a great time with him! He is such a funny guy.
Thanks Jim for the story.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 25, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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Classic story bump...
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Nov 15, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Bump with a photo of the approach (an updated version of Zander's from upthread).
On the maybe someday list...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Culture, I believe you have it marked correctly in my experience. We traversed to the base of the very clean prominent dihedral rather than descending hundreds of feet only to then 3rd-4th class back up to it. The gully above was pretty fiercer vegetated, all pointing downwards and kind of steep.
If you look very very carefully on gigapan, you will see little terraces coming in from the left, leading to the dihedral, from the forested pedestals' uppermost reaches. My recollection is that we were rather surprised that the terraces miraculously worked out and actually lead us without further hassle, to the base of the roped pitches.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 15, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Thanks for the bump and thanks for the link Werner
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Zander
climber
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
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I want to do Basketcase this year if I can get in shape. Last year I couldn't quite get fit but I have high hopes for this year.
Z
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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One of the best stories on ST.
And stelor route which probably has one accent per year? Or less?
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Powder
Trad climber
the Flower Box; Bay Area
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What an amazing story.
Thanks, Mr Donini, for sharing;
Thanks Steve, for bumping.
We need more of these. *^_^*
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 24, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
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What followed gave me the line that as a medicare climber I now use as my only climbing command..... "up rope, I'm not moving." hilarious and inspiring ..
This medicare climber probably now moving up the Nose in the day
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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just learned from friend meaning on "Basket Case"
urban dictionary definition:
A basketcase is common word used to describe a social outcast in school. Some characteristics of a basketcase included emotional instability, weirdness, and constant isolation from mainstream society. A basketcase is often independent and isolationist, in other words, anti-social.
This word was widely used in the 80s. Like most slang prior to the 90s, it has fallen into disuse. Today, a basketcase can be categorized in three groups known as the goth, emo, and punk.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 27, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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Alexey, its original meaning of course is denoting someone who has lost all four limbs and so cannot move without help from others and fits nicely into a basket. Perhaps this is how they originally managed such victims, in a basket.
Alexey, you have to go do this route soon. You are ready.
(1) Start very early; no tardy business, running out of daylight before the critical part of the climb and rappelling off and (oh my god) hiking back out. Park at the Snow Creek sign on Tioga and walk down, following the dome fairly closely and traverse on the terraces mentioned earlier. Wear long pants.
(2) Bring a couple (not a zillion) large cams, like 3/#3, 2/#4, 1/#5, 1/#6 Camalots or equivalent plus a light assortment of regular stuff and runners. There are no bolts, last I knew.
(3) Do not do this route with just one rope. At least take a 9mm as a second rope.
(4) You will need water. You will also notice the altitude and you will be in the sun all day until you get to the summit chimneys. Bring a headlight and matches.
(5) The route can be done in about three hours at best, I would think but most likely twice as long, maybe even more.
(6) After the crux pitch, the climbing is no harder than 5.9 at most but is a bit junky and still has some spots in it so don't relax your guard after the 5.11c and when you are probably quite tired...
(7) There are NO secret holds inside or adjacent to the crux crack, tiny or big. There is no secret. It is what it is and must be offwidthed very very delicately.
(8) Falling out of the crux is quite safe so don't get fearful; you won't hit anything. But you also won't have enough gas to make more than two real genuine attempts at it. You and your belayer will not be able to see the crux, also. As you start, you will think that the climbing is wildly overrated and will be a snap. Then you turn the corner, out of view now, and face the real and very unique problem somewhat surprised.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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May 27, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Great story and thread! Missed seeing/reading it before now.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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thanks Peter for encouragement and the great tips.
Are you sure that parking would be Snow creek not -Porcupine creek ?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 27, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
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Alexey, you are taking the Snow Creek trail south towards Half Dome/Tenaya Canyon then diverge from it cross country leftward approaching the west side of Basket Dome then dropping down in the shrub filled couloir along its emerging west face. I parked at Snow Creek trail x Hwy 120 to do this.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 27, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
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Not sure, Kevin, if we aren't on the same page here. Take a trail from Tioga Road, follow it towards Tenaya Canyon, break off of it to follow the right/west face of Basket Dome as it starts to rise out of the slope down into Tenaya. Follow it and its brushy couloir down and around, then take the little ledges to the base of the left facing dihedral and start. And MAKE the climb, don't plan on hiking out of this situation.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 28, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
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what Kevin said is correct approach (taken from other Basket tread ) start with North Dome trail at Porcupine Flat and after 2.5 miles just before North Dome turn right to Basket Dome and traverse it west face to the base of the route.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Big Donini bump!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Ønce again, do not take the lower of the two yellow paths to Basket Case. When you get closer, it all makes sense and you do a completely trivial traverse to the dihedral start.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Yesterday Chad Suchoski {Salamanizer] and I climbed Basket Case.
Even after study high resolution photos - it was very hard to find the right approach.
The Route from the bottom of the climb looks really jaw-dropping.
Chad climbed crux pitch and all route in impressive stile and on-site.
He also made a photos of the approach and for all Basket Case pitches and trip repot coming soon.
I'd like to thank Jim Donini and Peter Haan for great stories they wrote about Basket Case.
Without those stories - I would not even think to climb this route.
And Peter, your gear beta and suggested logistic was right on!
Up Rope I am not moving!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Chad is a beast!
Congrats to both of you for hitting the obscure.
Can't wait for the modern TR.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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GREAT TO HEAR THIS and congratulations to you both!! Get those photos up and approach beta please!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Approach beta? I thought the damn thing had become so poular the NPS paved the approach to prevent erosion.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Christ, J-Do, you used to be such a nice boy. Plus to hell with paving; let's go trench the sucker. The approach AND the effing climb. Get that dumb crux out to about a nice S-chimney. Stuff like this out there in the wild is too good for mortals and it IS about time to cut down another Bristlecone in order to count the rings and "it can't be that old". Any parallel here?
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mdanek
Trad climber
California
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Jul 10, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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Chad and Alexey, congrats! Cannot wait to see the TR with pictures.
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Zander
climber
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Jul 29, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
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WTF, Over. Where is the trip report!
(And i say that in the nicest possible way)
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jul 30, 2013 - 01:49am PT
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Nice Alexey! Way to git after it. I can't wait to hear more. And maybe have you drag me up something come September.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 30, 2013 - 04:05am PT
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WTF, Over. Where is the trip report! Chad? working hard on TR? self-developing black/white camera film with chemicals ( mid 20th century technology )?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 30, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Love this thread (as well as Peter Hahn's)! Looking forward to the TR and pics.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
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Nice TR about the seldom done Basketcase. Some people said they never heard of the climb....here is a little history.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 23, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 23, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
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Does this thread count as reminiscing? I'm confused.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 23, 2016 - 04:09pm PT
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I gotta say I agree with you Randy about your reference to Jim's latest thread. On the other hand, with respect to Alexey's picture, whoa! I'm feeling some kind of magnetic attraction or something.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 23, 2016 - 04:39pm PT
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Actually, I went to the bathroom and the feeling went away. Go figure!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2016 - 04:45pm PT
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I'm keeping Basketcase in reminiscing mode. Two years ago I sandbagged myself on Book of Job, a route I did the FFA of in 1972. 10b indeed....no danger of a downgrade there!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 15, 2018 - 12:13pm PT
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Bump for wideness...By Job!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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May 31, 2019 - 02:13pm PT
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One can aspire.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 31, 2019 - 02:23pm PT
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if you have to choose who you will trust about BS- Donini or RJ ?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 31, 2019 - 02:30pm PT
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I (affectionately) nominate Jim for "SuperTopo Curmudgeon".
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WBraun
climber
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May 31, 2019 - 02:51pm PT
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Basketcase
The only route in Yosemite I regret not doing.
I wanted to free solo this thing on sight.
But Shipley and Coz talked me out of it and instead all three of us went to do it together.
Unfortunately just as we started roping up the fuking sky released a torrent of rain.
We bailed and ran away ......
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 31, 2019 - 03:09pm PT
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you still can do it Werner.. with rope. Now when ST be locked you will have a lot of time for climbing
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| Messages 1 - 110 of total 110 in this topic |
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