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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
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Any one have any pics or stories about this classic?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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There's some footage of Kate and Madeleine climbing it in the extras footage on one of those recent films.
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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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No pics, but a fantastic story. I agreed to go and try Separate with a guy on the Camp 4 board. He said he had tried that and Tales many times and he was close on both. He had never been on Tales. I ended up battling up the chimney cursing the universe for thinking I could climb valley 12b, then hang dogged up the steep .75-1 crack to the top sweaty angry, then had to explain the fine art of French free to my unknown partner who could barely hear me beneath the overhang. Needless to say, I kleimheisted my way to the street and hitched back to camp.
On a side note, I went to the creek and got on Coyne's Crack, Way Rambo, and several other similar sized cracks and after this current storm I want to head back into the valley and finish it. Amazing line, but VERY physical especially with man hands.
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nvrws
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
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There was a video several years back called Yosemite Climber.. a swiss guy made the movie and showed it in yosemite for a year or so... Herman Wing from mexico climbs tales and johnny woodward(i think) does separate with a no hands rest over the lip as I recall.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:06pm PT
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I have good photos of Max and me on it. My brother took them on rappel. I'll scan some in and post them later on.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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I got the onsight of this fab line (tales) in 1985 with Mike Lechinski and Mari took pics. I will dig out those shots soon and post.
It helps to have skinny hands as i did @ the time and also helps to weigh 120 which i no longer do!!
KS
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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thanks folks!
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Double D
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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When Bill Price, Augie Klein and I went to work on Tales I just gave up. That size just didn't work for me. Bill was one of the most talented crack climbers I've ever seen and had a very early ascent:
Bill Price on Tales of Power
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
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Didn't Bill reach down to grab a pin and have it pull out in his hands?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 23, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Doug McDonald was fixated on this thing BITD.... he probably went up there with Tarbuster, Werner, etc.... what I remember most was perhaps the biggest gobie I had ever seen on the back of his hand after one session. It was the size of a manhole cover.
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Double D
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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Mark I don't remember him pulling out a pin but I didn't go with him on his 1st attempt so it may have happened then. In fact I don't remember any fixed pro. Placing the hexes was quite a feat in itself as I recall.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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Sparking long dead brain cells...
I remember seeing a slide show at UCSC of Hudon and Jones on TP.
Mark, please scan and post them up, they were good images...
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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placing hexes on that rig now would make it 5.13 for sure!
love to see some sport trads giving that a go with the clank clank of the hexes..
felt every bit of solid 5.12 in 85 with rigid friends...
ks
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CF
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
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Some photos of Sue McDevitt firing it.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 23, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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Okay, here ya go.
Max and I did the second ascent in the fall of 1977. About a day or two before we did the fifth ascent of Astroman.
Getting into the Pea Pod was a bitch.
We worked on the route for a couple of days. Right above that blue sling was a pin. I thought it was yet another pin above that one that Bill had reached down to grab and pulled out.
I think right here there is a little jog in the crack that allowed me to get almost a real tight hand jamb. I'm sure I placed that nut from there.
Just before it widens out to that bit of off width. Notice the runout, two inch waist band, one inch webbing leg loops and the dual chalk bags.
Looking up at Max on the route.
Max ripped right out of the crack after this picture was taken.
And Hexes, Baby, yeah, hexes! I did it again years later with cams and it was almost cruel how easy getting pro was.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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Good footage in the extra scences of The Sharp End
I like this climb due to the fact you can take some what large whippers and not get hurt. Link it with Seprerate reality to get the full value of the area.
Seperate reality is WAY easier IMO. It just gets a little to thin(or to wide) in the upper mid section for me.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 23, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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EB's and hexes, that's cheating .....
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Feb 23, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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dang man, mark and max you guys sucked!
but the twin chalk bag thing was kinda homo...
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 23, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
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The size suited me, first time was the charm! What reason would I ever have for dragging this 52+ yr old carcus (almost rhymes with circus) back there? OH yeah, it's fun, elegent and ever so cool!!!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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great pics. I went down to the base once but never completed the dang thing. it was perfect for my hands. How much harder than short circuit folks? two full grades?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Feb 23, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
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Awesome photos!!!!!
Thanks for bringing this tales thing up!!!
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
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Nice photos Mark. Dual Strawberry Mtn chalk bags - cool!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
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thanks Chris F and Mark H. Great!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 23, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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Thanks for the pix-- I've not seen very many.
Man, I'd love to do this thing. Maybe this year.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
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Its hard to say Short Circuit is short with one or two powerful moves where as tales is longer and more sustained. IMO tales feels quite a bit harder then SC, al least 3 grades harder
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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Thanks.....it actually just was more intimidating to me rather than hard. I guess I was old school, if I couldnt lead something on first try I never went back until I felt ready. This is one I never felt I could lead without a hang. It was why I never got on phoenix....which I bet I could never have led.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 23, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
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I don't know what the Phoenix would be like with cams but we called Tales .12b in the fall of 1977 and called Phoenix .12d/.13a (w/hexes) in the spring of 1978. They are a world apart.
I think I have my Phoenix slides scanned in already....
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jiff
Mountain climber
autin, texas
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Feb 24, 2009 - 12:00am PT
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Any solos of this bad-boy?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 24, 2009 - 02:22am PT
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hey there mark hudson... say, great photos... (not sure if i saw who took thoses?)
say, it looks like you belonged there, as you got the same colors on, as the rock... perfect match, to help say: i belong here!
well, as i am not a climber, but an artist, (that does no art these days) i just had to make note of that...
also, that little flowered clip on sue (think her name was) along with all the colors of her working-gear, sure made a an interesting picture... like a mountain flower, growing out of the crack of the rock...
great pics, though, for climing, thanks for the share...
seems i just learned some more old history from you all again...
so very glad...
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2009 - 09:18am PT
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Mark, lets see the phoenix pics!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 24, 2009 - 10:14am PT
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Dual bags- way cool
When did chalk bags get small? I remember some in the 90's where you supposed to just stick your fingers in. Now you can get your hand in, but it's not the best
I'm going to go buy that one Russ sells that fits five blocks.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 24, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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I tried the phoenix once and wasnt able to get it clean but I thought it went easier then the first time I tried Tales. The phoenix for me goes from good fingers to ok hands. None of that wierd inbetween stuff Tales has. Both lines however are some of the best granite cracks I'v ever climbed. Thinking about Yos is makeing me stressed I'm in school :(.
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Jim Wilcox
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
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Feb 24, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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Double D,
Is the photo of Bill when he was still in high school? Lud mentioned that he got student athelete of the week (month?) for a climb he did in Yosemite. Pretty sure he said it was Tales. I was amazed that a public school would even acknowledge climbing, especially WAAAYYY back then.
He told a pretty wild story of Bill on Phoenix, too, as I recall. And Lud is that master of understatement.
Cheers,
Jim
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Double D
climber
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Feb 24, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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"Is the photo of Bill when he was still in high school?"
Na, that was taken when he SHOULD HAVE STILL BEEN in high school. Bill dropped out and got his GED so that he could climb. He was 17 I think when the picture was taken.
It's interesting hearing various takes on the hand size. I remember KB went up and had bomer jams (she didn't complete it though). To me it was very similar to short circut but way longer.
Phoenix, when Bill and I first worked on it, was a funky size for me on the mid section of the upper crack, sort of had to use thumb cams because of the leaning nature of it. But I could only do about 10' sections before I was gassed.
Edit: We did get PE credit for climbing where we went to high school. We had a bolt ladder for practicing aid but the crux was getting pelted by rocks and bottles from the local hoodlums. We also had a 2.75" crack on the underside of our bleachers that we used to put the porta-pit under for practice.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
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This one deserves a BUMP.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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great thread.
anyone have any stories from RK and the first ascent? Werner, bet you were there.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 25, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
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Castaneda bump!
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drewsky
climber
Seattle
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Feb 25, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
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On the drive up to climb both of these pitches (Tales and Separate) for the first time, there was a huge commotion near the parking area: there had been a motorcycle accident. Two people were writhing and bleeding on the ground surrounded by perhaps three dozen assorted gawkers and, fortunately, a competent medic or two. As we could offer little help, we continued up the road. I think it was at least a half hour before we heard sirens approaching from behind us on the road: don't expect a lightning-fast response even in a virtual small town like Yosemite.
Despite this inauspicious beginning, the climbs were great. Climbing Tales of Power followed by Separate Reality is an enjoyable combo. I found myself much more impressed by Tales of Power, although they are completely different styles of climbs. Aesthetically, however, it certainly takes the cake in my book.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 25, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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one of the very best!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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sweeeeeeet!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I said that? Was that Max talking about Phoenix?
Certainly, back then, if you would have told us about working a route for days and weeks and months, we would have said "no way, not interested". We would have gone for that on a wall climb but not anything shorter. We used the shorter routes to up our on-sight ability to free climb walls.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Never even attempted Tales of Power or A Separate Reality. I've read 'em both though, and also The Teachings of Don Juan: A Yaqui Way of Knowledge and A Journey To Ixtland.
I know this wasn't the question, but if I had to choose, I'd go with A Separate Reality (but just maybe A Journey to Ixtland).
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:03am PT
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I'mma stalk your ass next time you're in the Lodge cafeteria :)
I'm never going into the cafe again! ;-)
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Mar 10, 2011 - 12:10am PT
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There is a Phoenix thread somewhere here where I posted all the photos.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 10, 2011 - 10:52am PT
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When I started coming to the valley, it was regularly touted on the whisper circuit as the "real hardman entrance exam".
Like, "yeah Separate Reality is cool, but it's light for the grade, and the Cringe is pumpy, but they get done a lot, Fish crack is piss for the grade...you want a REAL hardman route...Tales"
I heard variations on that kinda talk from at least a dozen people. Tales, Tales, Tales. And they were right...unless you have children's hands, then maybe 5.8++.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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sick bump
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 22, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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it is indeed beautiful line..
edit: to David - no I have not
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Aug 22, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Alexey, Do you have intimate knowledge of this line of beauty ? Too hard for me that one. Those pics of Sue are great !!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 22, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 22, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 22, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
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wow look at that arete next to tales in Ed's photo!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 21, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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B b b b b bump
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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It was right around the time Meyers and I... GM was recruited by RK to belay him above that "1 1/4 inch angle" highpoint over a number of days. I recall watching Ron take fall after fall (30 footers) onto that pin. Looked like pretty spectacular (& bold) airtime from our vantage point on Reeds Direct.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 21, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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Kevin, at the end of the season 1971, like late October, Bates and I spotted both lines. We had just done the FA of The Application and had tons of time left in the day. Plus we hadn't hung out that much back then. They are not that obvious amidst the water streaks and jumbly cliffs. I never went up there, not sure if Barry snooped around. HIs career kept going for a bit longer and thin hands were his trademark... When we spotted them, we were effing stunned to say the least.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Mar 22, 2013 - 05:11am PT
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I recall a late 80's calendar photo of a svelte Christian Griffith on Tales of Power. I believe he flashed it, showing his all-around ability during those turbulent times. He has big hands too..
Does anyone have or recall that photo?
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Sweetness. Motivational.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Feb 25, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
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Looks sweet, and way beyond me
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 25, 2015 - 02:18pm PT
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A Great Bump!
The Gunfighter Chalk 'Sacks' Were to allow for a quick dips,
no shrugging the sack across/around the swami, from side to side,
(that, belt seemed to fight the chalk.)
look closely,the chalk' Bag' had yet to be made stiff!
(Might have been ? Kevin Bien, behind that ?)
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Sep 12, 2015 - 05:26pm PT
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what a line!
someone up thread asked if there had been any solos...with all of the solos of separate reality, i was wondering the same thing, anyone know? i'm sure many of you could have done it since it would be easier than trying to lead it with hexes...
bump!
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Mar 27, 2016 - 02:54pm PT
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bump.good stuff.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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May 20, 2017 - 11:17pm PT
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Bump! Tales!! Looks really good
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 21, 2017 - 10:50am PT
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Missed this thread the first time around. Early in it, Mark mentions that he and Max Jones did the second ascent in the fall of 1977, but that may not be correct.
In the spring of 1977, probably in May, Tobin Sorenson repeated the route. He was just home from Europe and his historic 1977 season (August-December) in the Alps, which I wrote about in Alpinist 49. I was there after my first year of law school to do the Salathe with Dick Shockley. Tobin was in training mode--eating only sporadically to keep his weight down--with the goal of doing early repeats of Astroman and Tales of Power at the top of his list. He did both and I remember he celebrated Tales of Power one afternoon by sitting on a rock in Camp 4 and devouring an entire quart of ice cream by himself.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 21, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
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and the climb only gets more legendary... thank you Rick.
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WBraun
climber
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May 21, 2017 - 05:40pm PT
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A lot of people don't know that Tales of Power crack is where the swifts live.
They live right where the crux is, where the jams are the most difficult.
The swifts fly into the crack and the oil from their feathers makes it extra slippery there.
I belayed Kauk during his first accent attempts except on the actual day he did it.
That day George Meyers belayed him ......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 21, 2017 - 06:22pm PT
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Rick A,
In the spring of 1977, probably in May, Tobin Sorenson repeated the route. He was just home from Europe and his historic 1977 season (August-December) in the Alps I think you meant to say spring of 1978, since it was fall of 1977 when Tobin did those cool climbs (some with you) in the Alps.
He climbed Astroman with David Goeddel in May 1978 - the story and several photos are in this thread, plus mention of Tales of Power.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1856207/Tobin-Sorenson-David-Goeddel-Astroman-May-1978
I have the early Astroman ascents as:
 FFA - John Long, Ron Kauk, John Bachar, 5/75
not a continouous free ascent, but all pitches were freed individually during 2 separate days
one day: Kauk had spied the enduro corner, and went over with Bachar to try it. Bachar led the boulder problem (p3), and then Kauk led the enduro corner (p4) with no falls. This was the first time these pitches had been freed.
another day: Kauk and Bachar returned with Long. They jumared a fixed rope to the top of pitch 4, to get out in front of some parties which were aiding the route. They freed from pitch 5 to the top, with many of these pitches being freed for the first time. Pitch 5 (5.10) had previously been freed by Mead Hargis. John Long had also previously freed pitch 5 and a 5.10d pitch above Changing Corners during a mostly aid ascent.
2nd? FA - Ray Jardine, Vern Clevenger, Spring 1975
1 bivouac
3rd? FA - Ron Kauk, 6/1977
led all pitches; Werner Braun jumared
up to the last pitch by 11am
4th? FA - John Bachar, 6/1977
led all pitches; Rick Piggot jumared
5th? FA - Dale Bard
led all pitches; partner jumared
6th? FA - Max Jones, Mark Hudon, Fall 1977
7th? FA - Tobin Sorenson, 5/1978
led all pitches; David Goeddel jumared, wet conditions
from
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/longhf.htm#wash
But Werner was around so he might have a more accurate list than this.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 22, 2017 - 05:38am PT
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Clint,
Whoops!
You're right. It was spring of 1978, not 1977.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2017 - 09:35am PT
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Oddly, I never did Tales Of Power; I never even *tried* it, although I was reliably good with that size range at that length -- I used to run countless laps on Short Circuit and the like, often as not ropeless -- and I had many rope gun friends offer to drag me up it over the years. I think somewhere along the line something about that splitter just stone cold sober psyched me out. I still get butterflies just thinking about it, shaking hands, a real bad ju ju kinda vibe -- which is weird on so many levels, right? I must have done separate reality 6 or 7 times. If anything, it proves the rumors are true: I am a mere human. flawed, neurotic, weak, imperfectly made.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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May 22, 2017 - 10:01am PT
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^^^ bvb, that pic got the best laugh out of me so far today :)
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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May 22, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
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I likely got the ascent of Tales after Tobin, June 1978. I was 16 years old, belayed by Bill Price and Steve Hong. Steve was hanging with us in the Valley that spring to get better at crack climbing. He ended up getting much better soon after! Also did Astroman that Spring of 78 with Leonard Coyne, my high school teachers let me take some finals early so I could get up to the Valley to do that climb.
Still hoping to do both those climbs again sometime in the next year or so...
Peter
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 22, 2017 - 05:12pm PT
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Nice!,, Peter
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2017 - 07:24pm PT
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Yes!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 22, 2017 - 09:14pm PT
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If anything, it proves the rumors are true: I am a mere human. flawed, neurotic, weak, imperfectly made.
Well said bvb . . . true for us all.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 23, 2017 - 05:12am PT
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Thanks Clint, for the Astroman ascent details. Astroman was a huge watershed for free climbing but I wasn't around for the details of subsequent ascents. If I ever dream of a single climb I would want to do if I could, it would be Astroman.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 08:18pm PT
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from way back machine with Tarbuster help restoring The Warbler comments
The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
Aug 22, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
I spotted Tales and showed it to Ron, he doesn't remember it that way, but it's the truth. It was right around the time Meyers and I did Sherry's Crack and Knob Job - Tales is pretty much right above those two, and I was scoping the whole area with binoculars.
I didn't notice Separate Reality, but distinctly remember the thrill of seeing the splitter that was to become Tales of Power hidden in those camouflaging water streaks for the first time.
Unfortunately it was so steep and thin that I just wrote it off after our first attempt on it. Ron, Nick Taylor and I went up there and between the two of them got a rope to the alcove. Nobody could get much farther, but Ron got the highest - and drove a 1 1/4 inch angle at the high point.
Ron kept returning and worked it out, I don't recall how many tries (this was well before Friends) it took, but he finally got it, and in the process discovered and led Separate Reality.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 08:39pm PT
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I have not read the books by Carlos Canstenada, "Tale of Power" and "A Separate Reality".
But, surely someone (Kauk) has read them.
What is in the mind of a climber, when he names a significant first ascent?
The Crack of Doom, surely, evoked the work of J. R. R. Tolkien, for Chuck Pratt.
This post is Off-Topic, to be sure. But, not very far off of the topic.
It is impossible to imagine that those two linked routes were named, coincidentally, by Ron Kauk.
What did Carlos Castenada have to say, to Ron Kauk, that compelled him to suggest that others should read Castenada's work?
By comparison, "Tangerine Trip", "Mescalito" and "Magic Mushroom" are easily scrutinized.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 11:12pm PT
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replaced image, slightly large crop
...there are 8 climbs in this image, two are five star, 4 are 3 star, one one star leaving one without a star...
probably room for more
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 11:44pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Anywhere else on earth, that would be an astonishingly great crag.
In Yosemite?
It's just one of four/six dozen, and probably not near the top of any list.
Such is the magic of Yosemite.
Show up, rope up, and you won't be disappointed.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:15am PT
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Great stuff people, love those old school pix :-) climbed with the Prices a few times the past 4 weeks in the Valley, Bill is still a bad ass climber! heres a couple pix on Bill and I hanging out a Five & Dime cliff, Bill doing laps on Five & Dime, thanks for sharing happy climbing Mike A.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:17am PT
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:20am PT
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That's NOT "Tales of Power" :-)
Bill's good man and so are you Mike, cheers .....
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:24am PT
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well, that is cool. Had no idea Bill was still climbing. What an incredible climbing resume.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:36am PT
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Anywhere else on earth, that would be an astonishingly great crag.
A pile of otherwise useless block and choss with 1 climbable route? No, it wouldn't. It's only because this thing is in Yosemite that anyone climbs it at all. It's a good and challenging line, for sure, but absolutely everything else about the experience of climbing that thing is mediocre.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 20, 2019 - 09:43am PT
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There's another route that starts just a few feet to the left of Tales of Power.
I've done that one too.
JLP, .... who gives a sh!t to what you think.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 20, 2019 - 10:03am PT
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Gait of Power (?) IIRC So good you can't even remember it? I have no idea either. Maybe it will be in Ed and Clint's book. I would place Separate as Tales' 2nd pitch. It's basically one climbable line. I'm not dissing the route, I just think it's bizarre to worship every last granite block in the valley. The vast majority are unaesthetic and unclimbable.
"The climbing as a whole is not very aesthetic or enjoyable; it is merely difficult."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 20, 2019 - 10:20am PT
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they are in the new guide... see re-edited post above
as for JLP, "nobody knows you're a dog on the internet"
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 20, 2019 - 10:50am PT
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Where are all these stars? I'm instantly suspicious of your forthcoming book, but there's also something I could come to like about a plan to add stars to everything. By the time the hords clean out these countless otherwise worthless routes, many likely still waiting for a second ascent, there may in fact be a few more stars of quality discovered.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 20, 2019 - 11:11am PT
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I'm instantly suspicious of your forthcoming book
I don't think it's "instantly," you've been "suspicious" for quite a while... woof!
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fosburg
climber
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Jan 24, 2019 - 09:41am PT
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Did Tales have fixed pins back in the day?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 24, 2019 - 10:46am PT
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I caught that also, Kevin, about the fixed pin. I've never even stood beneath the route.
Not that it answers your question, but Yabo told me that he went up there with Kauk a few times, and on one of those occasions Ron sent him up with something like a single number five hex on the rack, essentially setting Yabo up to sacrifice his best effort to get in a high piece, so Ron could go back up on the yo-yo and work it higher still.
Ah ha, tactics of the pecking order!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:33am PT
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The only other crack I can think of that was a worse size for me was Phoenix right after the traverse. Both routes felt horrendous. Back in the day Tobin was terrific with the thin hands stuff. So was Ron. On everything. I swear wiggling hexes into those cracks was harder than climbing them.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:41am PT
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One of the few classic thin hands cracks that I never did back when I climbed a lot in Yosemite. I actually tried it once and it was absolutely crawling with biting ants. My belayer was screaming the whole time. The tree where the belay is was completely covered in them. They were biting me on the route. I hung once about 3/4 of the way up and we hightailed our way out of there. Never made it back...
I regret that.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 24, 2019 - 11:58am PT
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It's a size where size matters a lot. 12-something using rings and thumb stacks - a whole lot easier if it's tight hands for you.
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fosburg
climber
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Jan 24, 2019 - 12:30pm PT
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Gait of Power seemed not so easy for the grade. When Lydia and I did it, the jug right after the crux snapped off and I went flying.
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