Discussion Topic |
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 16, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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John Salathe on the summit with Ax Nelson rappelling after the first ascent of Lost Arrow Chimney in 1947.
I just finished entering scans of John Salathe correspondence on our website. Some of these letters I posted on this site and some I haven't. If you are interested in reading some of these letters check it out. Some of it is pretty interesting.
http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/content/john-salathe-correspondence
Ken
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Feb 16, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
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That is really NICE! Thanks Ken!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 16, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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Nice Ken!!
Thanks for putting this up!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 16, 2009 - 10:44pm PT
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Ken
You and Steve Grossman are so 'WITH IT'!!!!!
Thanks!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Feb 16, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
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Put that image into painful perspective... a wee bit of exposure + a Goldline type (sisal?) rope + a full-on body rap = major sac!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 16, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
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Thanks Ken. But the link didn't work when I clicked it just now.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Feb 16, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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Ken, been wondering what is going on in your life recently. Ok, I really mean, where you been and what up with yo Dude. But Russ has been on my English Language case so I will post correctly.
On the Serious note. Again, stellar pictures and information for all of us that care and love the history. Thanks, and hoping you're having a great winter. Lynnie
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Klk,
It might be because I was working on the site. If it doesn't work again you can got to the front page http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/
and then click on the title above the photo. If that doesn't work I have problems.
Lynne I am doing well, thank you.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
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Nice Cosmic! That is pure genius.
Klk, sorry about that. I had made a spelling mistake and forgot to redo the link on here.
Ken
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 17, 2009 - 12:17am PT
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Cosmic is a genius.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 17, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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The FA of the LA Chimney and Tip is undoubtedly a whale of a tale. Or tail, if you prefer.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 17, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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though frozen in time, cosmic's scenario's subsequent events are breath taking to imagine, especially if you've ever been their...
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john hansen
climber
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Feb 17, 2009 - 01:05am PT
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Chicken Skinner, great photo.
So whats happening with the exibit? It should be touring the world..
Long swim up the Merced for Shamu.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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John,
Aloha.
It is being picked up by the Autry Museum in LA starting June 12 and will tour for three years. I have a couple other projects that I hope happen too.
Ken
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john hansen
climber
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Feb 17, 2009 - 01:26am PT
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Great work Ken , the world deserves to see it. I was really impressed with the quality of the exibit when I saw it in Yosomite. Good to know it is going out there where more people will see it .
The kids placing pro in the interactive granite wall , or watching a group of high school kids checking out that vid of Lynn Hill on the changing corners pitch... And the the next exibit is her tenny tinny itty bitty shoes.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 17, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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should't he be rappling to the notch? looks like he's rapping into the chimmney? is that how they decended? Did the L A direct really fun route. who did the FA?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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East Side,
Warren Harding and Pat Callis did the first ascent of the Direct in 1968.
Nelson and Salathe rappelled the route from ledge to ledge. They used 120' ropes back then and it is a steep,slightly overhanging and long rap to the notch. They would have been stranded. Remember it was before harnesses.
Ken
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 17, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
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thanks ken, I also forgot what a bitch it is to get out of the notch without a pre- placed rope. Remember looking into the chimmney and thinking no f#$king way I'd want to be in there!!! cheers!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 17, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
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hey there chicken skinner/ken.... say, that is a great shot!
some how the black and white just "stresses" the meaning of "history"...
also, i keep trying to post at your site---i had what i thought were some neat interesting questions, but it refuses to let me post:
it keeps saying i have to 'type something in'---obviously, which i do... oh my... :(
well--i was trying...
*also, cosmic... say, that was a great re-do pic!...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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Hi Neebee,
If you have not set up an account and are not logged in as a member, you can still post comments by answering math questions at the bottom of your comment, in some cases twice. This is to keep spammers out. I need to figure out how to make it easier and smoother.
In the meantime.
Warren Harding portrait during the first ascent of the Nose.
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 18, 2009 - 02:09am PT
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hey there ken...i have an account that is why it is so odd... maybe i will have to try your math way and pretend that i am not a memeber... :)
say, thanks...
i sure can not figure out what is wrong... it is very odd...
say, ANOTHER GREAT picture...
thanks!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 18, 2009 - 02:10am PT
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hey there ken... hmmmm, just realized... me and math, dont always add-up to well... but i will give it a shot.. most likely sometime tomorrow... :)
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2009 - 02:25am PT
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Neebee, It is always an addition problem no more than two digits for the sum. I have had problems trying out the site as an alias logging in especially after setting up an account and when logging in later it does not recognize my password. Let me know what happened to you. If others are having problems, please let me know.
Thanks,
Ken
From all you experts out there do know how to fix it or make it easier?
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the campfire just a ways past Chris' Taco stand
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Feb 18, 2009 - 02:35am PT
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Very cool stuff Ken.
I already have the start of the Autry Center showing in my calendar. Will be fun to take my kids to see the exhibit.
Cosmic is an artistic genius. Of course, he has the benefit of the finest hippie art supplies!
Fletch
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 18, 2009 - 03:33am PT
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hey there ken.. say, thanks i will go try my math... ;)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 18, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
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hey there ... say, just a bump... hoping for another neat black and white old photo....
:)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 18, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
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Hi Ken,
Is there any chance that a video of the Nose50 talk and slide show is in the offing? I am not trying to lard on work--maybe someone else could do the work--but it seems like a good fundraiser. I was there and I would buy a copy to see it again (also I nodded off between the Boot and the the upper corners--probably all the excitment.)
Great photo of the petrified Shamo.
Best, Roger
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 19, 2009 - 12:52am PT
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hey there..... here's the ol' bump... for ken, and for roger....
:)
*waiting for another, neat history pic... :)
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 01:50am PT
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Here you go Neebee.
The following three photos were taken August 25, 1934.
Bestor Robinson on the summit of Lower Cathedral Spire during the first ascent.
Jules Eichorn sitting on the same cairn.
Herbert B. Blanks, Boynton Kaiser and Elliot Sawyer on the summit of Higher Cathedral Spire after they completed the second ascent. All photos were taken by Richard Leonard and are in the Lower Cathedral Spire notebook.
Roger, I haven't had a chance to do anything with the footage yet and could use some professional help. When something is put together you will be the first to know.
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 19, 2009 - 05:53am PT
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hey there ken... say, thanks so very much... man oh man, where do you get ALL this stuff...
it reads like an old family album...
the rock-climbing "family of man" (including gals, i mean too, just going by the ol' saying...)
:)
*say, ken... how did this:
(All photos were taken by Richard Leonard and are in the Lower Cathedral Spire notebook)
come to pass? (who collected all the stuff--the guys from the first ascent only, or does it contain much more?
are there other photograpers in it too?
*all my kind of questions i kind of wanted to ask at your great sight... :)
*have not tried the math yet, had too much come up unexpectedly here---namely snow.. so i went to the store before it got bad... did some real mail, and never back online until now--whew... got to go sleep now!...
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 19, 2009 - 07:12am PT
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Salathe was a commie, just witness the following quote:
"I find that rock climbing is the finest, most healthiest sport in the whole world. It is much healthier than most; look at baseball, where 10,000 sit on their ass to watch a handful of players" - John Salathé, 1974
Imagine, putting down baseball. ;-)
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 11:12am PT
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Here are a couple more photos. Courtesy of Tom Frost.
TM Herbert clowning around during an attempt on the second and first continuous ascent of the Salathe Wall, 1962. They came down due to high temperatures.
Royal Robbins perched on a block during the first ascent of the Mozart Wall on Sentinel Rock, 1962.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 19, 2009 - 11:54am PT
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The Royal Roost! I love that shot of Tom's!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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It is one of my favorites too Steve.
Ken
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 19, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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Ken
Where will the exhibit tour be going?
Is it posted on the website?
Thanks!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 19, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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"Better than Fats Domino"
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
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Royal Robbins coiling a rope in preparation of rappelling off of Lung Ledge during the first ascent of the Salathe Wall, 1961. Photo courtesy of Tom Frost.
Jules Eichorn on the left and Bestor Robinson holding a flag during the first ascent of Higher Cathedral Spire in 1934. Photo was taken by Richard Leonard and was scanned from the Higher Spire notebook.
Steve W, I am driving down to LA after work today to meet with the Autry folks for the next few days. I should know more when I return. I will put this information on the YCA website and Supertopo once I have locations and dates settled.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
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Richard Leonard in the 1930's. Note the loops sewn on his shirt. The loops were for holding his pitons.
I recently posted some rare Ansel Adams photos on the home page of the Yosemite Climbing Association website. They are worth checking out. Because of copywrite issues I can't post them here.
Ken
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BBA
Social climber
West Linn OR
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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Referring to the photo just above this we have Richard Leonard. I believe he is also pictured in my photo, here. My evidence is based on having been a Military Intelligence photo interpreter for 6 years, the fact that Leonard took long burro trips, and this feeling... It looks like the hair style is the same and the dimples on the cheeks are there. What say you?
It's 1931 on the east side of the Sierras at Banner Peak.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 24, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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BBA-- The ears, hair, and attitude certainly line up with the known photo of Leonard posted above. If you can place either of the Kats with Leonard on other occasions, it'd raise the odds even higher.
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BBA
Social climber
West Linn OR
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Mar 25, 2009 - 12:29am PT
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klk - Some of the other items are that Leonard and Brower wrote the intro to the Yosemite Valley climbers guide in 1940 and mentioned William Kat. Also, Leonard in some of the Bancroft Library writings said he made a 10 week burro trip in 1930 in the Kings Canyon area, so he definitely got around the eastern Sierra Nevada. One of the most interesting items is a long, 10 inch nail Leonard took out of Washinton Column (it is on the YCA site), and it was exactly the same kind of spike that my second cousin found in William Kat's belongings still kept in Berkeley. Family lore had it that William Kat used such spikes in tough situations to get over what may have been the crux of a climb. He was a carpenter for the Curry Company and built things out of logs around the Ahwahnee and other places in the 1930's, so he had easy access to such things. Thanks for your input.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 25, 2009 - 12:34am PT
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hey there chicken skinner.. and bba... say, thanks for the great history shares....
very nice stuff... and the pictures, too... realy appreciate this stuff...
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Buff Bump
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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I read those letters, John Salathe was a Christian!
So was Tobin, and me too! Cool...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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Glad you enjoyed them Captain. It would be good to see you again.
Ken
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reddirt
climber
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Mar 25, 2010 - 03:36pm PT
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bump
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2010 - 06:52pm PT
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I thought I would bump this one up with a 1957 photo of Dolt. And how about some of his patents.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2010 - 07:20pm PT
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How about the first Birdbeak made by Bridwell from a Crack-N-Up? Or his prototype slider nut? Here is another angle of the slider nut.
Ken
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 30, 2010 - 08:21pm PT
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Did Bridwell inspire Charlie Porter?
I'm guessing yes.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
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I think so Reilly.
Here is another classic piece of gear from 1875.
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 30, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
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hey there ol' chicken skinner... say, thanks for the bump here... my buddies, well, their dad, he loves the
lewis and clark stuff (just saw that i read this wrong,see *** my edit),
and is really deep into it for years...
will pass the link on to him...
though he most likely may have seen it? ...
not sure...
thanks again for this bridwell bird beak stuff...
:)
***
EDIT: ooooops, just realized you meant:
lewis clark... :))
oh my... well i loved the note find, ken...
thanks again.. :)
(say,though i loved the link... he may be disappointed, now though... oh my)
:))
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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May 30, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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Great shots of the old gear. Is that "ring pin" from the back side of Half dome or something?
By the way your web site is awesome. Looking forward to the Facelift this year.
H
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 30, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Hey Ken- did that 1875 piece come from Half Dome?
Did Anderson's toe go in that eye hole?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2010 - 01:06am PT
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Yes, it was from Anderson's ascent of Half Dome. Here is a self portrait of Proctor doing the second ascent in 1879 when he had to lasso past missing bolts . . Imagine how adventurous it was back then.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2010 - 02:06am PT
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Tom, My kids couldn't get their big toe in those things. I think Anderson and Proctor stood on them.
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 31, 2010 - 07:47am PT
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hey there ol' chicken skinner ken... say, this post keeps getting better and better... :) oh my!!!
thanks for the wonderful shares...
:)
god bless...
:)
keep giving yosemite a big hug for me...
;)
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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May 31, 2010 - 11:35am PT
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ah, here we are--the front porch of the old climber's home--east side, of course, life being much cheaper there. don't we love to sit and argue all day, especially the ones who can't climb any more?
for what it's worth, i interviewed chuck wilts in the early 80s and asked him where all the yosemite old-timers had gone. he said he would still get a christmas card from john salathé, usually a rather religious one, and that john lived in one of those communities around the salton sea which move from higher to lower elevation and back depending on the water level.
i tucked that information away for awhile, but as i began to approach retirement age, it regurgitated into a bit of songwriting:
in a little tin trailer
by the salton sea
there's affordable retirement
there for you and me
lotsa baby boomers
keep us company
everybody gettin' frailer in a little tin trailer by the salton sea.
ain't got much pension
no annuity
but i'm very social
without security
i get to see the doctor
once a month it's free
i get a trusty inhaler for my little tin trailer by the salton sea.
(deep breath here leading to steel guitar solo ending in melodic quote from "aloha oe")
see the sun a-risin'
out across the sea
got no air-conditionin'
but the heat is free
and my sexy tan lines
are a sight to see
older but not paler in my little tin trailer by the salton sea.
(song ends with full angelic chorus accompaniment.)
here's to JS--he always said the climbing started when the aiding started, somewhat after 5.9.
p.s. my wife hates this song for some reason. if you want to hear it, email me a number and i'll sing it to you over the phone when she's not around.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
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Awesome Tony,
To Salathe
Ken
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Sep 22, 2011 - 09:42am PT
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