Discussion Topic |
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2009 - 10:07am PT
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Reed's Pinnacle, Yosemite Valley
A great climb that probably doesn't get done a whole lot...
5.10a offwidth FA 1970 by Barry Bates and Mark Klemens..
take a rack of 1 each through #5 and push or doubles of #4, #4.5 and #5
a single 70m rope gets you off the top of Bongs Away.
http://www.vimeo.com/3063796
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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He lead that in good style and fast, impressive. Like 5 minutes or something. Looks like the temps are nice also for end of January. Got me chomping.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I can only imagine what locker will do with your title,
Ed. . .
:-)
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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based on last night's evening news, the title could have more to do with Olympic swimming, since swimming and OW are so very similar. correction: treading water.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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took a bit longer than 5 minutes, I'm playing around with editing out the slow bits... something about climbing that makes time go by fast if you're leading, while the belayer is dying watching minute moves to overcome seemingly microscopic adversity.
Bridwell has the 1970 FA of Bongs Away, Left in 1970, at that time it probably just referred to the piton.
Roper says of BAL, in his 1971 Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley:
"This slab is an insignificant blob 100 feet up and right from the rappel bolts at the top of the 1st pitch of serious climbing on the regular route of Reed Pinnacle."
of BAC:
"From the bolts mentioned in the preceding route, drop down and traverse slightly right, then climb a three-inch jamcrack to the top."
it starts a bit wider than 3" and goes to probably 5" or 6"...
He does not give an equipment recommendation for this "insignificant blob."
A nice belay ledge awaits you with a comfy recline from which to view the splendor of the lower Merced River canyon.
Cragging at its best.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nice job guys!
Cool video, I love the soundtrack!!
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MikeL
climber
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Your posts are always relevant, considered, and often entertaining. Nice. Thx.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nice vid Ed!
Climbed Bongs Away Left once... '93 or so.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nice Ed. I looked at the Center when I rapped off the Left, which I thought was a pretty fun 5.8. The Center looked clean, even though it doesn't get much mention in the books. Thanks for the the betamax.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nice, Ed. I liked the Hanging at Reeds vid too.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Sweet Ed'ster.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Good on you guys for getting out there. Thanks for the video report too!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Thanks for the sweet video. Looks a bit slippery in spots.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Awesome soundtrack Ed!!!
Love that tune, Hendrix all the way!!!
Awesome video, that, I assume was Jay on the lead?
Sweet!!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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Gary Carpenter on the lead... he's been swiping all the good leads lately...
...need to find Jaybro for a pass at Gold Rush, and maybe scuffy and a chaperone, like Steve McCabe...
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Thanks for the post Ed,
Did you guys look over at Magical Mystery Tour? How did it look?
Zander
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Stellar video and weather!
Awesome,
Thor
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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I'm starting to get jealous! I won't be back out there til later this month.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Nice, haven't done it though. Great music choice!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Warbler,
http://www.gomusic.ru is an amazing site in russia. you can get most of what you want there for Hendrix. Love Pali Gap, search tracks. the songs are insanely cheap too. You can trust them. I have been on there for years.
ph
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WBraun
climber
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Bongs Away
What group plays that song?
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Damn, Ed,
Like Jimmy, so bold and subtle at the same time. Fast and furious till the OW sections, then fast and careful. Damn dude, you might have a career after a career, don't you think?
Great stuff, keep it coming, please.
SammyLee
Edit to add for Werner,Jimmy Hendrix, that's the man who did it for us.
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Now tell, I'm dreaming?
Jimmy Hindrix, on the the tonight show. About 45 years ago. He is playing with the "band", Experience, and his amp dies, live video. The drummer starts to "sing" the lead guitar part, and nobody notices the differences. Rodies replace the amp, and things go on.
I am sorry I can't remember the name of the drummer. I may be crazy anyway.
Edit to add, I went back and listened to a bunch of Hendrix stuff. He was the MAN of that day. His guitar does not compare to S.R. Vaughn of a another day. But still yet, he lead the pack. I wonder what he'd be doing, still alive?
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