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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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From my SoYo experience, calling it better than Valley rock is like calling your own girlfriend hotter than any women photographed for the cover of "Vogue"
Our own farts smell better don't they?
Peace
Karl
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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I call it the Hinterlands. Robbins name, and he took me there to guide with him in the early 70s.
The place is absolutely brilliant. Sweeps up more area than Tuolumne, which I think is a better comparison than the Valley. Domes to domes. At least as good, that's for sure. And far less known. Which is fun for the sake of exploring and nosing around dirt back roads and dodging logging trucks. Cowboys. Friendly Rangers. I walked into a FS work station out there asking for directions to a viewpoint to see Balloon Dome, and ended up with a guy in a green shirt and a badge driving out with me then walking a mile cuz he wanted to check that view too.
The last 15 years I've been a lot to Wamello Dome. "Fresno Dome" on the maps, but Wamello is what John Muir called it, and he was quoting the Indians. Slow steady development there. Nothing you'd call a crowd by Yosemite standards, though I've actually waited in line for a climb there a time or three. You can hike in half a mile and camp on a small knoll with a view next to the rock. Close enough for the Coleman and cooler, far enough to break contact with the road.
I've raved about the area a bit in print (lately, Shuteye) and it doesn't seem to make much difference in the number of climbers who show up.
Great place. Needs a guidebook. I doubt Mark Spencer will redo his.
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sunshinedaydream
Trad climber
the big granite bubble
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Hey there Crazy Horse...
Shoot me an email... I'll give you some local beta, and can put you in the right channels. There is a lot of information, and a lot of climbing, but its very much kept in arms of the local climbing community. For many good reasons, but we'd love to share it!
I guess my first question is what are you thinking of when you say Southern Yosemite. In the park, like Wawona, out of the park, like Fresno Dome, the Balls and other Beashore areas, or up towards Mammoth Pool?
There is much good rock to be had, no crowds, and all dog friendly.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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I don't know DMT - their salsa is a little thin - but they make a generous margarita and watching fifty yellow finches mow thistle seed by the back porch is cool.
Ditto on the sport routes - someone has been a busy beaver setting bolts on The Balls - and they have a mean streak about it too!:)
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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It sounds like sport climbers are taking over certain parts of that SoYo area.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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I was there last summer and it's too big for anyone to take over... Then again if you are too lazy to get there and want to make assumptions, go ahead...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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"and all dog friendly"
if for no other reason, rock quality debates aside, a great destination.
Salsa quality? Is this another 1,000 post debate thread in the making.
F*#k you, their Salsa rocks! No it doesn't.
And you guys despise political threads......whatever
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Not dissing Dingus over the El Cid salsa - after all, the poor boy is from Tennessee or something like that - so what does he know about salsa that doesn't come in a jar.
I will defend El Cid on their salsa IF you know to ask the waitress for the "real" stuff - not the watery crud they serve to tourists and old white people from Cedar Valley.
And yes - the SOYO is dog friendly as long as you treat yer mutt for ticks beforehand.
Rattlesnake aversion training is a good idea too!
And yes - there is gud climbing at Squaw Dome and The Balls. Shuteye Ridge is sweet too - just be prepared for a epic approach - either major high clearance on yer car if you come from the top thru Central Camp- or a slog thru forested hell if you come up from the Minarets Road side.
But what the hey - I built the Ricky D Cabin in a meadow less than 30 minutes drive from ALL of these places - so I'm biased.
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tiki-jer
climber
fresno/clovis
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Actually El Cid's quality has gone down IMHO.
Chips are good.Last time a had a plate dish the refried beans had a peculiar green tint to it. Like in the moldy color palette.
The Valley is by far better!
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Karl, are you calling my girlfriend a fart?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Like Doug, I guided there with Royal's RockCraft in the early 70s and return a few times, once with George Meyers. Not much had been climbed and it seems to me that we really hadn't figured out how to gauge new route potential—too many choices. Nevertheless, it was great fun to take clients up first ascents. I think Royal recorded them; they are probably in what ever guide is available.
I don't know the name of the area, but there was a place close to the roads that had the greatest little outcroppings about 30-40 feet high, similar to rock on the "Braille Book" or the "Hobbit Book," as I remember. Cool climbing.
Somewhere I have some pictures I'll have to dig out.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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DR wrote
"The place is absolutely brilliant. Sweeps up more area than Tuolumne, which I think is a better comparison than the Valley. Domes to domes. At least as good, that's for sure."
No way just as good as Tuolumne, unless there are some amazing places that are miles and miles from the road, which is already a factor that makes it worse.
No crescent arch, fairview regular, west crack or crying time again equal routes as far as I can tell in So Yo. It's all pretty second rate to me (except some quality beginner's routes on Fresno Dome)
Come on, spill the beans on what are some long classic so yo routes?
El Cid is always pretty busy but I can't figure why, except that it's cheap. Salsa is good??? Their idea of a salad is a pile of iceberg lettuce!
Peace
Karl
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enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
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"I have come to the conclusion that (i am aware that this will definatly start something) the rock in SoYo is better than the valley overall."
What?
Ive climbed at "The Balls" and loved it because their was not a single other person, but the rock wasnt that great.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Be nice Karl - Oakeydoke is dying a slow death so I give them kudo's for any restaurant that stays open longer than 6 months.
As for Mexican - El Cid is about the only option left since the closure (good riddance) of Castillo's.
Now if YOU make a mean enchilada - I would be willing to throw you a fiver for lunch!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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enjoimx -
Cmon bro - The Balls have all the chicken heads a climber could want PLUS a nifty little roof problem on the third level AND you get to look at the backside of Mammoth Mountain at the same time!!
But you do have to bring your own beer and hope that you don't blow a tire on the approach road - but we're hardmen so we take it:)
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Kind of like sun setting through a bowl of thin salsa.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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"I built the Ricky D Cabin in a meadow less than 30 minutes drive from ALL of these places - so I'm biased."
Mother fu....you haven't invited me to come hang ther yet? I see how it is. I thought we was friends, bro. Damn. I'm comin', tell Dawn I'm back in town! I'll take point on the routes too!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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If you plan on coming by - hope you own a snowmobile cause the place is under 2 feet of snow right now and the Forest Service doesn't plow the roads anymore.
We bailed for the winter last month and probably won't make it back in until April.
But yeah my man - since Dawn and I finally got the Final Occupancy permit for the place in October we have been talking about a Facelift/Supertopo Alumni SoYo Climbfest.
Did I mention we have running water and 2 working toilets? Trout fishing is a 15 minute walk away and a swimming pond only 100 yards from home.
And not kidding about climbing either - you can see Shuteye Ridge from the place, Squaw Dome is 20 minutes up the road and 30 gets to The Balls.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Matt,
> I'm curious if anyone on this forum has ever climbed in the area, and if so where, and what did you think of it?
After living in California (S.F. Bay Area) for 24 years now, I made my first 2 trips to the Hinterlands / SoYo in summer 2008.
 June - Chiquito Dome, rebolted Elegant Inclinations, and toproped it when it went into the shade on the second day.
July - Shuteye Ridge - High Eagle Dome, Shangri-La. Did Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, and some bolted face climbs.
Both these areas are in the sun most or all of the day, and the elevation is not that high, so they got a bit hot. The situation was similar at Courtright Reservoir, which I visited once many years ago.
A moderate clearance vehicle is needed for Shuteye (to reach just short of the pass by High Eagle and Shangri-La), and the parade of 4-wheelers and dirt bikes on the road to the lookout was a little "different". In the springtime, I hear there are streams over the road, so you might need high clearance. This suggests the ideal season may be in the fall, when the other competing areas are also very good.
In terms of driving time from the S.F. Bay Area, the area is dominated by shorter drives to Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne, Donner Summit, and Lover's Leap. For a slightly longer drive, I can go to the Needles, so (in my view) that dominates it for 3+ day trips (if you don't mind the walk in).
If you live near Fresno, of course the drive is shorter, so it may dominate other areas.
If you like to do new routes, explore, see few people, powerbolt, and/or work on guidebooks, the area is definitely attractive.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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The beer drinking/ lounging in the greater shuteye range is superb. El Cid's sucks. 007 is a great trial off of central camp.
Couple guys plopping in bolts out there are toolboxes. Looking down into Red's Meadow is a trip.
That's all I have to say about that.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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I love being on top of mammoth and overhearing tourists saying " check out half dome". never climbed in soyo, so close but yet so far. ps if you want real salsa- lots of peppers on the barbie,grilled tommatillos, onions,cilantro, lime juice, all in a blender!!! oh mon!!!
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sunshinedaydream
Trad climber
the big granite bubble
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Why do people love El Cid's so much? I've lived here 10 years and really don't get it? Its gotta be the Margaritas... best thing on the menu.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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The SoYo area is a terrific place to visit, hike & climb in. There has been a devoted contingient of climbers developing new routes in the area recently.
The rock in areas like Shuteye Ridge & Chiquito Dome is amazing!
I met a guy last year that is doing a new guidebook but I never got his name. Graham Doe is in touch with him I believe & Graham knows as much, if not more than anybody, about the routes found there.
Better than Yosemite Valley? I couldn't agree with that by any stretch of the imagination but is a superb area for sure.
Here are a few pics:
The Eyrie - Shuteye Ridge Many difficult routes here. Most are 5.12 to 5.13+ range
Upper East face of High Eagle Dome, 400' tall! just great rock here!
Detail of Upper East face of High Eagle Dome
Just look at the rock quality! Does it get any better than this?
Chiquito Dome's S.E. face ~ Note the climber in red at the treeline/skyline. That gives the pic some scale. Great features here, huecos, pockets & tufa-like ribs unlike anything I've ever seen on granite before.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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I think the original poster may be found themselves in a pleasant state of zen happyness without all the nonsense of the ditch. No farty smelling camp 4 bathrooms to wake up to sure does make the rock better.
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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In my opinion this area is fantastic, as good as any I've ever been to. Vast. It could really use a guidebook. Shuteye is nothing short of amazing. The rock blows my mind. I'd say the Valley has the cracks, but the face climbing here is world class.
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BBWolf
climber
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SoYo sucks. Everything worth climbing has already been climbed. Not to mention the ticks and gnats - unbearable. The pictures you see are from somewhere else...trust me. Someone here is playing a joke on you. Horrendous approaches, loose rock, dangerous snakes, falling debris, huge crowds, long runouts, overbolting, and various other dangers are all too common in this region. I have not even touched on the rangers. They stole my weed! and my cold brews! and my girlfriend.
Do yourself a favor...keep driving to the valley.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Karl, if you know where to look there is definitely Fairveiw size domes and a few Washington Colum size pieces as well. I climbed a V 5.8 A2+ 'Walking With Walt' on East Fuller Butte Really fun with some good cracks. So much potential. Not mention Ballon Dome is Half Dome size. I want to go check that guy out.
I guide people on a nice 2 pitch route up Squaw Dome pretty frequently, while up there I noticed some old holes and bolts. They appear to be some sort of guy wire set up. MAybe for an antenna or a flag??? Does anyone know what they were used for??? I am very curious about it. Did R.R. set up the stars and stripes up there?
Pat
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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BBWolf: Thanks for being such a Dick to your brother and sister climbers.
Clearly you flunked Kindergarden -- go back and learn how to share.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Scooter wrote "They appear to be some sort of guy wire set up. MAybe for an antenna or a flag??? Does anyone know what they were used for??? I am very curious about it. Did R.R. set up the stars and stripes up there?"
i've wondered about this for years, and still have no idea why there is all that crap on top of the dome. Anyone????
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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BB Wolf,
Nice try, but too late. All the other comments will give away the satirical nature of your post. I've been climbing there since 1970, when Tim Schiller and I intended to climb the main face of Fresno Dome, and ended up doing a very circuitous line up its little brother (Hawk Dome? I can't remember its name) instead. The place is enormous, beautiful, and varied. There are plenty of climbs with short approaches, and plenty more with enough of an approach to assure the sort of solitude I used to feel even in the Valley, when we would usually have any wall (not just climb) we were on to ourselves. There are also, Karl, plenty of faces just as big as Fairview, but merely farther from the beaten path.
As for El Cid . . . It's OK, but there are too many better places in The Big Raisin 40 miles down the road, so we seldom stop there.
Places like the Balls, Tollhouse, and Courtright are why I moved back to Fresno 27 years ago. I'll admit the town itself has lots of faults, but its proximity to better things can't be beat.
John
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Gene
climber
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I took BBWolf's comment to be tongue in cheek.
gm
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BBWolf
climber
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DR
I though everyone from the SCruz had a sense of humor. Actually, a prerequisite to live there. Apparently not brother.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Pat,
I never saw the Stars and Stripes broken out when I was guiding for Royal.
In fact I'm not at all sure where we were within the Hinterlands. Where Royal led the caravan, I followed.
I know we were on Wamello, and I know I guided the South Buttress (great climb, tho maybe not "worthy" at a Fairview level) before the FA Spencer listed.
When I came to live on the Westside again in Santa Cruz, I immediately went back to the Hinterlands. But I got to Wamello and essentially got stuck there for 15 years.
2-3 years ago I finally got further back, onto the big plateau. I could tell right away that we'd climbed at the Balls. (and I found a cool Coyote skull..) But I know we went other places, and I look forward to piecing together more of that.
So much there...
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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OK, BB -- sorry about that.
Guess I've lost my sense of humor a little on this hoarding and secretive game so many seem to like playing.
I mean, even at the base of Manure Pile Buttress on a Sunday afternoon I manage to find something to climb and fall into conversation with whoever is there -- even (Gasp!) nOObs -- and enjoy myself.
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BBWolf
climber
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I recall climbing Coronet (I think that was the name, a Robbins route) in 93 or 94. A group of guys were bolting away up there. If I remember right I think they had a bolt on the Coronet route. Has anyone done that route? Is my memory off?
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kev
climber
CA
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Soyo is great. But in my humble opinion not better than the Valley. Partially depends on what type of climbing you want. S.Y. offers great adventure, plenty of face climbs, both short and long routes in an great setting. It's ranger free, free camping, pretty devoid of people, etc. However many people lack the desire to deal with the length of the drive, lack of services (no Delaware North, so sad), high clearance vehicle, primitive camping (in some spots), Lack of current book and Spencer's book (which is good for some stuff and a book of lies for other things), etc. More over it ain't the place you should go if you need a supertopo for your route.
That said, I can't wait to get back up there. There are a few of you out there I need to email about SoYo, sorry I haven't - been busy, but I will.
kev
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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There are pluses and minus about the area for sure.
Free camping in many places is a huge plus.
and your chances of waiting in line for a route approach zero, which is pretty sweet too.
For folks looking for first ascents, sure beats the valley.
Short approaches, it's a mixed bag there.
Peace
Karl
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kev
climber
CA
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Karl,
I'm not sure about the FA comparison. Seems like there is so much stuff in SoYo that's been done but either kept secret or undocumented that it would be easy to bolt over or across some ones line. Or put in convince anchors where they weren't.
Consider Captain Obvious (GREAT route)for example. Apparently it was done before without the one protection bolt and without the bolted anchors. I suspect there a lot more out there like that we don't know about. At least in the Valley you can research who's done what if you're willing to put in the time and energy (which sadly isn't always the case). Seems much harder to do with SoYo. Maybe this is a qn of ethics though.
kev
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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You're right, Kev. Tim Schiller and I did several moderate fifth class routes in the areas around Fresno in the early to mid 1970's, many of which pre-dated the first recorded ascents of technical routes on Fresno Dome, Dinkey Dome, Dogtooth Peak, and Little Baldy, to name a few -- and I doubt we were the first, at least on some. In all, we placed one bolt for a belay anchor on one route on Squaw Dome, and another for protection on a route on Little Baldy. Otherwise, I doubt you could tell whether what we climbed had been done before.
That's part of the fun, though. Detailed guides and topos take the uncertainty out of a climbing area. Adventure may or may not be a sign of my incompetence, but I find it essential to fulfillment. I don't get much adventure when I know everything in advance.
John
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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How do these myths get perpetuated?
The truth is that NOBODY in the Santa Cruz area has a
sense of humor AT ALL.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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I'll testify to that Scuffy. Hey, if your in Oakhurst check out the guy in the Raley's supermarket that works in the butcher shop. They make him wear this beard net. I always hassel him. You probably should too! It might enhance your climbing trip experience. I swear, I hope he doesn't come for me, he wields a cleaver! Do your shopping first!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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No humor?
How do you explain the banana slug?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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50 posts and no pictures? Come on folks, help a bro out.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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No pictures?
Um, look again my friend!
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Sorry, no pictures. It's pretty much your strandard beard net, with the standard "I feel ridiculous" look. Think "Classic".
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kev
climber
CA
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"It's pretty much your strandard beard net, with the standard "I feel ridiculous" look. Think "Classic". "
HUH? Maybe I'm just stupid (a lot of people might agree on that) but I've got NO clue WTF you just said.
what is a strandard beard net?
kev
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Your right Kev, I meant "standard" not "strandard". Every time I hassel the beard net guy he replys "learn to spel". What a smart ass is he! Next time I'll ask him if that's a strandard beard net. I'll bet it confuses him!
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kev
climber
CA
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No Phantom,
I got that part I thought you meant "standard" and was poking fun by repeating the typo (I can't type or spell worth a crap either).
But I still have no clue what you meant. Please enlighten the dim ones like me.
kev
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john hansen
climber
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Its like the "Lunch Lady" wearing a hair net,, only on a beard.
Can't have those stray hairs falling in the food,,,
Sorry, thread drift.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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A quick image search brought this gem, from Climbing.com:
Looks like killer rock. The climber also has a beautiful back and shoulder blades.
Edit: Resize!
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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That's not him!!!
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fishtrap
Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
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I live in Bass Lake and climb in SOYO pretty often in the summertime. Most of my time has been spent on Fresno Dome and the Balls. I've been to Fresno Dome about a dozen times in the last few years and have never seen another climber (usually get an early start and are off the wall before lunchtime). Hawk Dome on the west end of Fresno Dome has lots of new moderate bolted routes. Whiskey Bill on FD is a personal favorite with 2-3 pitches of great face climbing and 2 easy pitches of crack at the top.
Enjoy!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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"so they got a bit hot. The situation was similar at Courtright Reservoir, which I visited once many years ago."
Hmmm... Must have caught it on an unusually bad day, Clint. Courtright is hands-down cooler than Yos, temps-wise. If it's 100* in Fresno, it's 75* at Courtright and 98* in the Valley. Makes sense, as Courtright sits more than 4,000' higher than the Valley.
SoYo better than Yos tho? Not hardly. Damn good? You bet.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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oops I missed a page my bad, good pictures. More Please
I want to go
Tom
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ß Î Ř T Ç H
climber
the ground up
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Here's a (googled) Balloon Dome etc sampler . . .
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Fishtrap wrote:
"I live in Bass Lake and climb in SOYO pretty often in the summertime."
I have a question for Fishtrap: Hey Fishtrap, do you ever catch fish with your "beard net?"
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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I dug up some additional photos that are not from the "Standard Beard Net".
Shangri-La Dome - 5 min from the road, great views, lots of sun.
A view of the East face of High Eagle Dome- at least 275' tall at this point. Many routes follow the dark waterstreaks .
The steepness of the Eyre formation.
Eyre again, lots of difficult routes here!
I believe this one was 5.12d, I forget the name of it, sorry!
This formation is the Queens Throne. Many of the watergrooves/streaks are established lines, perhaps 2 or 3 pitches. Many were done by Herb Laeger & Eric Fazio Rhichard. The formations behind, to the left are called Dreamscape but I think there is little activity here yet. Great bouldering in this area too! Oops! I shouldn't have said anything!
There is so much potential for new routes there. It is true that some of the newer routes have some chipped holds. But overall, a small number of routes have questionable tactics involved. Because it is so spread out & remote feeling, it will never get crowds like some areas so to say that crowds will overrun the place is being alarmist. You'll see way more 4-wheelers & ATV'rs than climbers there anytime you visit.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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There's some rad stuff pictured above. Wish I could pull hard enough for those overhanging face routes..wild.
Thanks. Hope beta becomes available. Have a feeling that Yosemite will always draw enough people away and people are lazy about approaches as well
Peace
Karl
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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DMT - I know for certain that one of the chippers is a resident of the local area. Now that being said, some of his partners are from southern California, in the OC to be specific.
Is chipping any less reprehensible when it is done by one of the locals? I think not. It's a terrible way to treat the rock, anytime. As standards advance, what is humanly possible continues to expand. Things people looked up at & just shook their heads & thought "no way that'll ever go", now are commonly done. Remember the Mandala in Bishop? Aren't we glad now that climbers of the 1960's didn't resort to chipping on routes/problems like that. Chipping, aggressive cleaning, whatever you choose to call it, is shortsighted & selfish.
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Its mind boggling, with that much rock, to think some would chip. I've heard those rumours too, and have always wondered why they use the .12 rating on so many routes there??
Wamello
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Watch out for the likes of this crusty bird. Notice squaw dome in the background. Men in lederhosen with guns could await you around the next bend in the river.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Thank you for that link Bruno. I'm pretty sure that's the guy. Picture a cleaver in his hand! Oddly enough he is featured on the covers in both the upcoming issues of "Vogue" and "Field and Stream". I'd hang with him any day. Hey Radish, my mind get's boggled too. What's with the route crowding that has recently arrived? It makes me feel like I'm at the beach in LA or Yosemite Vally or maybe Times Square at New Years.. Where's Hasselholf!?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Chipping is gay, as are the folks who do it. Should probably be handled "bachar style", in the parking lot. Nawamean?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Did someone say Hasselhoff? You asked for it!
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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That's disturbing. Edit: David H. that is.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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We've been soundly "lederhosed," gay rotpunkt!
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Once again everyone here has proven to me that supertopo is pretty much worthless. The original question was "have you climbed there, and what did you think of it?" The post was intended to get a feel for what people think of the climbing, not opinions on salsa, or chipping, or where most hold chippers hail from.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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I'm takin' my ball and I'm goin' home!
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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You have a very good point Sane Horse, I mean Crazy Horse.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Crazy Horse- WTF??
Did you read ANY of the info on this thread?
Better take your meds pal. Come back when they're working again.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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"(i am aware that this will definatly [sic] start something)"
Sounds like you weren't really aware at all, were you, crazy horse? Rather than coming in and trolling, you might want to put some of the info you have down somewhere in an attempt to be productive rather than getting your panties in a wad when people inject some info/truth about the area.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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and you will be glad for all the info when Herr Hasselhoff exits Pico Rivera and shows up in the North Cascades and Squamish in the Knight Rider, with his chisel, standard beardnet, Vogue photogs and Taco Bell squishpackets.
Then you will understand.
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kev
climber
CA
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Yo Mental Horse,
Hmmmmm seems like I told you what I thought as well as many others. And I have been around there too (the talon, sqaw, grey eagle, the toad, the balls, other stuff by the toad, 557 wall, and some other places).
Don't go dissin the taco. PLENTY of real climbers here.
What did you do in the last week? I've spent 4 of the last 7 days climbing...On rock not plastic.
kev
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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I too have climbed and beardnetted fish in this area for over nine decades, plus or minus a few. I've yet to finish a route or land a trout! The salsa at El Sids is nowhere as good as it used to be. The local chicks claimed it made them horny. The local law inforcement made them water it down after the Brunosafari incidents.
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BBWolf
climber
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Thank you retarded horse... the replies to your post put the first smile of the day on my face.
I meant Crazy Horse
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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(called "spanish fly")
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Dingus-
We are on the same page. There is a guy around here who is a chipping madman, I like the f***tard coment. I could not belive my eyes when I was looking at some boulders even that the guy chipped his way up. I thought the whole chipping debate was solved years ago. Pretty sad and REALLY lame.
Does anyone think it is appropriate to name the chipper? (besides aface or d*head)
Pat
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Crazy:
Mark Hayman accomplished a rollerskate ascent of Courtright around '74. He said nothing about "ball bearing rock."
Does that help?
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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This doesn't have any thing to do with beard nets but still may interest some. OK, one day my wife and I drove up to the notch where you park for Shangri-La dome. Not two minutes after we step out of the car we hear an enormous crash. A old fir had fallen across the road right at the rock trials. I had to give my wife the "What do we do now Mrs. Big Shot Outdoorswomen look?" It took her forever to cut it up with our collapsible camp shovel. I finally gave in and helped only because it was getting cold and dark, two things which I happen to be cautious of. Sometimes I ponder leaving her at home! Her great grandmother wore a beard net.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sorry to contradict my old pal Mtnmun, but that is Voyager Rock in the backround of my "portrait". I have spent many a season camped near Squaw Dome though. I hesitate to claim any "first ascents' as who knows who may have crossed my path previously. I have several "secret squirrel" spots I have been using for the last 25 years or so in SOYO. Blaine Neely used to summer up at the Madera County Youth Work Camp near Jackass Rock and is a good resident source of info.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Dunno about the salsa at El Cid's - still OK, by me. But there is a smokin' hot blonde working there lately that is enough of a reason for visits by me.
Oh yeah, by all means - I think it's perfectly acceptable to out folks who are chipping holds. I have an idea, of who it is. I'd be curious to see if I am right...
edit: Believe his name is Mark Haymond, Bruno.
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Whoa.......Mark Haymond....I don't believe that! He's the original guidebook author of the Tollhouse guidebook. I know Mark and I hope this ain't true.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Thanks Nefarious for the proper spelling. It's been over thirty years since seeing Mark when our paths literally crossed on the Free-Blast. Or is it "Freeblast?"
(freeblast has nothing to do with the blonde, no matter what Phantom says.)
Post up Mark, if your out there. I still remember the slideshow of the roller derby.
EDIT: Radish-- Mark Haymond is the skater, not the chipper. Phantom's wife is the woodchipper, not the rock chipper. Chip is the brother of Dale, they're "two little happy souls."
http://www.chipndaleonline.com/
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Last pitch of Whiskey Bill on Fresno Dome.
Bloody good fun.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Top of the third pitch, same route. The Hinterlands rock!
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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I read that post wrong, Mark Haymond probably did roller skate up the Tollhouse Traverse. Not the same person who is a chipper!
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Is that photo from "Vogue?"
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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What a good photo of a fine fellow!
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Mr Horse, crazy or whatever, thanks for the righteous WHINING
a couple pages back.
The tone of the conversation definitely improved at that point.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Hey Scuffy B. Is it improper to capitalize when spelling your name? Are you related to Aunt Bee?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Yeah, Mark is a really nice guy. And it was he who did the Tollhouse Traverse in RollerSaktes. Definitely not a chipper!
Speaking of which, yes, due to Horsie's whining, things are mighty chipper in here now, aren't they! har, har, har...!
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Those are some posers (not poseurs).
Preliminary research indicates the b to function more adroitly
in the lower case while the s may in fact be case insensitive.
It's been so long since anybody asked me about Aunt Bee
(Aunt Bea, actually, though it sounds like Ain't Bee) that I'm
starting to get all weepy.
Our connections are so enshrouded (that's an ice-climbing term)
by the mists of time as to be nearly invisible to the
non-Phantom mindset.
Thanks for asking!!!
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