Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 255 of total 255 in this topic |
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
|
after looking at the owl roof posts, i was getting stoked on roof cracks....
what are YOUR favorite roof cracks?!? (splitter or corner)
Moab:
Crack House (possibly the best pure splitter roof anywhere?) birth canal section
Layaway Plan (under clings through a tight hands corner roof)
Brother From Another Planet (12' OW roof in a corner)
Veedauwoo: (lots o' roofs there)
Squat (will it ever come together?!??)...bad beta here
Lucile (only did the first pitch, but wanna try the second; that roof is HUGE)
Hob-goblin (an edl boulder roof out by the roof ranch)
Devils Tower:
havn't tried either yet.....but they look amazing!!! (the only two real roofs at the tower, excluding the window)
avalon (fa skinner)
brokedown palace (hong)
Montana:
Crack of Libido (the best roof crack in the gally's)
Hyperspace (new splitter roof crack found at 'fantasia'...what a find!)
Big Shoe Roof (splitter OW boulder)
Hot Dog in a Hallway (a TKings find, and still unrepeated!)
Basket Dispatcher...an old favorite that fell over last spring...RIP
City of Rocks
Interceptor (fingers to fist splitter)
what are your favorites?????
cheers,
patrick
|
|
Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
|
for some a4 nailing fun, midwest style, i've been playin on this one for awhile. never seem to get around to finishing it though, usually over test belayer patience and decide to get drunk instead. though i'm sure they try, the locals have never managed to get over to my fixed gear. (not shown in photo)
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
|
Different take on a classic - Blaine Harmon on Separate Reality.
|
|
alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
|
Pat, what happened to the Basket Dispatcher?
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
|
Nice topic Pat!
How about Desiderata
(Photo of Jaybro by Will)
Here's the Hotdog in the Hallway
Grungeskull is a fun one too
Sadly Basket Dispatcher fell over last spring and is now a pile of rubble...Probably had to do with the crazy amount of rain we had around then...and the loose chossy band just below it...too bad, it was a fun one.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
|
A really classic and doable roof crack is the River Boulder, in Yosemite. Wish i had a photo . . .
JL
|
|
richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
|
Vern Clevenger on Red Tape,Gunks 1980.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
|
Easter Overhang - Midnight Rock 11worth, WA
The crack splits the twin roofs center and left
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
|
The Monument
Ontario
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
|
This is, quite possibly, two roof cracks... That or there's a sword fight happenin'...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
|
There is a big big prize first ascent roof crack to do here in Yosemite. It's 30 feet off the trail. This thing will be hard but today's monkeys should be able conquer it.
People must be blind .....
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
|
"Nothing says heel-hooking roof God like tendonitis in the back of the knees"
--John Sherman
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
|
Aww come'on. everything's been climbed in Yosemite! Move along, folks, nothing to see...
|
|
bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
|
my back yard....
|
|
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
|
Awesome shot of 'Separate Reality' Nef!!!!
yeah the basket dispatcher fell over due to erosion, it was a pretty small fin....
I didn't try it, but the 'University of Mars' might be the biggest roof at the woo? and the 'darkside of mars' looked like the perfect squat trainer?
cheers,
patrick
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
|
Thanks, patrick!
--Ran
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
|
Kingsbury Thread?
Nobody tells me anything...
I like Overdrive in YOS
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 01:42am PT
|
Interesting Overdrive would be mentioned. This is a route I've always had an eye out for, but I can't honestly say I've seen it, though I tried looking for it from the road.
Strange connection, this fall, after climbing at new diversions, my partner and I ran into to the same man seen hanging out on separate reality seen above.
Never seen him before or after, but he saved my partner's ass. We were talking about overdrive with Blaine, got distracted, then drove off leaving my buddy's rack on the side of the road.
When my buddy realized it the next day, we remembered that Blaine said he knew a friend of ours here in Bishop, and we made contact. Long story short, Blaine had picked up the rack and mailed it back to Bishop.
Roof cracks, people who like 'em are all right.
Fistful, tarbuster, fistful of walnuts. that's a good one.
If I can get in shape, maybe overdrive this spring, or separate reality, or both.
For me here in bishop, that means training at the gorge.
Oh yeah, anybody do bob's big wedge?
Tom
|
|
Dudeman
Trad climber
California/Idaho/Beyond
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 02:27am PT
|
Here is a couple of shots.
This is some kinda famous lady at the Crack House
This is some not famous dude at Gibraltar Rock doing The Nose Route
Same not famous dude doing Interceptor at City Of Rocks, Idaho
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 10:09am PT
|
Tom Woods:
Overdrive!
Most people rappel into it; although it has a first pitch.
The descent is from the vicinity of the big tunnel, that’s all I remember.
Somehow I thought that first pitch was done by Yabo, it looked sort of sketchy from above, but I might be thinking of one of those things you get into from the top of Elephant Rock.
I climbed Overdrive with Bobbi Bensman and Tony Popo, plus one or two other people.
The roof is good hands and straightforward; it’s the section getting established above the lip where you could wobble out of there…
Big Bob’s Big Wedge!
Really popular amongst the Josh stacking cognoscenti. Never did it.
I have long forgotten the name of a particular low-to-the-ground roof problem requiring stacks, but it’s a pretty good one. It is found along the north side of the dirt road that leads out to the area of the Wonderland with Hyperion Arch. It actually had a fairly characteristic name too. My memory instructs me that I did this with Dick Cilley? Maybe Bill Russell.
Chime in Dick.
What I remember about it was that we would spot each other for the roof section, then clip our swami’s to a top rope once we pulled the lip…
|
|
Bread
Trad climber
Craggy Mountains, NC
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 10:55am PT
|
A little gem in the NC backwoods. We call it "Dixie Reality".
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
|
Our own Double D pimpin' in a famous book...
Animal Nickname Guy on 'Gong Show'...
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
|
“It Don’t Mean a Thing If It Ain’t Got That Swing”
Finger crack through a roof, 2 or so body lengths, Bachar rated it 11C.
Out by Uncle Willy's in JT.
Pretty sweet...
Lechlinski and I TR'd it one day way back, I'm thinking Yaniro was there too.
I gassed out on the final moves above the roof.
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
|
Mt. Woodson...
Suicide...
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
|
Max on Separate Reality. I believe this was the 5th ascent. He's clipped the same gear as Double D in the photo above. Those nuts were fixed for a long, long time.
|
|
Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
|
awesome photos everyone.....
oh, yeah... Those guys Jaybro and Blain Harmon are kick ass!!!
Nice shot of separate reality
|
|
Brian Boyd
Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
|
The Monument up by Lion's Mead in Ontario:
|
|
The Alpine
Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
|
Hands Across America at the T-wall in Chatt:
Not quite a crack but still pretty roofy:
Bread... where at the bald is that thing? Down by the Heinous Pain (hanging chain) wall?
|
|
Nicole
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 10:20pm PT
|
This is me on "Bob's Big Wedge" in Joshua Tree
i hoped that worked, thank you tarbuster!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 10:59pm PT
|
Cool!
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
|
Thank you to Brian Boyd for the picture of The Monument.
Since Mr. Cilley has been invoked, he can illustrate the Western bookend of Croft's Canadian roof crack pair, Zombie Roof:
(I'm not sure if the crack running parallel to the roof has been done.)
a different look at Easter Overhang, Midnight Rock, near Leavenworth, WA
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
|
The Monument and Dixey Reality both look spectacular.
JL:
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
|
Roofs can be challenging for the amateur to photograph.
Anyone have a picture of Mastodon Roof (Leavenworth)?
A sentimental favorite.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
Two seperate realities
three, if you consider we the viewers of the photo.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
flagstaff roof cracks, ftw.
the master cillinder, getin' er done on a 25 degree day. thirty minutes of stretching to warm up, one hundred and twenty seconds to send. same as it ever was.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
that's the stuff!
and,
oh yeah I almost forgot;
|
|
Bread
Trad climber
Craggy Mountains, NC
|
|
"Bread... where at the bald is that thing? Down by the Heinous Pain (hanging chain) wall?"
Shumont. Way up the mountain (west) from Left Field/Hanging Chains.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
|
|
Wow, I´ve never seen that pic of me on Zombie roof.Uh??Who´s MH2?Got the FA.Of the Mastadon roof.Wheres Mussy with the pics of the Living Conjunction?Didn´t we get some pics of Emotional Rescue?
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
Some really nice additions! Keep em coming y'all!
Found this one over the weekend, going back soon..
It's about 25' long starts with hands and pinches down(first 12 feet or so, to that small boulder)
it then flares open for the next 12 or so feet, while the landing slopes down...pretty sweet, though the pics don't do it justice...more to follow...
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
This thing looks stellar!
from RC.com
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
What happened to your post friend? You had some sweet shots up!
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
Sorry, here they are, one of them had some weird lines around the edges I wanted to crop. Gee, remember the “old days”, getting photos developed.
Whoa man, a compliment on my photos from Tkingsbury, I am NOT WORTHY!!
Some very inspiring photos in this thread.
Makunamia, Santa Barbara
Interceptor, City of rocks
Don Juan, Needles (not really a roof crack)
Vegas
Desert Reality
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
LOL! Don't know about that, you're quite worthy! The Desert Reality shot is rad!
We need more pics! or
MOAR!
as they spell it on the web box
|
|
PP
Trad climber
SF,CA
|
|
Has anybody done "third stone from the sun" in lovers leap ? it looks like a cool roof.
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
Forgot about the Dockin's Roof...first done in the mid 80s...Out in some obscure area in the Boulder Batholith...Mojede and I found it after getting some details from Bill...though it was pretty late in the day when we actually found it...
It's actually the finger crack on the left...Mojede checks out the center OW line...
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
Nicole on Big Bobs is a gem. 25' of grinder fist to hands, then an insecure deep fist finish at the lip. I did it first try w/ D Griff & Dave Tucker in '86/87. That pic doesn't show the crack all that well though, any others? Potter on Heaven is awesome! What about A dogs Roof, any pics? Couldn't do the dam thing, Same grade as Separate Reality, felt 2 grades harder.
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
More Monkey, then Funky,
photo by Bullwinkle
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
Pat/Can't Say,
Didn't you say--in a long-lost thread--that you had old Shawn Curtis photos of "It Don't Mean a Thing Without that Swing"? Post up if you can find them. They'd be a real treat.
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
|
|
Kenny,A dogs Roof is 12.b Separate is 11.d.Adogs roof is hard.Did it in,I think, 1982.
|
|
can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
|
|
Marty..I think I do..but truthfully, it's been so long and more then a few moves, I am not sure where they are..but I'll do a deligent search for them and see if I can find them. But Dean might have them too as he was culling Shawns photos for forgotten gems.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
A classic!
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
more flagstaff inverted jam candy:
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
the bachar cracker of new england:
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
Looks good down there bvb...may have to get my ass south...
edit: and perhaps east...
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
a dog's roof:
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
Awaiting a melt and first go...
TKings, you get my e-mail pics?
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
more monkey:
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
Ciley, Always thought A Dogs was rated 12.a which is what most people are calling Separate Reality these days. Anyways, makes a lot more sense. BVB that East Coast thing looks classic.
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
That thing looks sweet Moj!
and no, I didn't get an email...perhaps a resend?
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
10-4
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
A dogs, nice pics, the rattly fingers section past the horizontal felt desperate, could never link it
|
|
Murf
climber
|
|
Granite Dance .11a .. Indian Country, Photo cred. DEE
Unfortunately, the whole flake is loose.
From a distance, photo cred M. Morley
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
yeah kenny, on dog's i shot right out to the lip and took a near-grounder after turning it. i was so surprised at having done the thing that i came unglued in the 5.10 shallow corner above the roof. did it next try.
i taped my fingers pretty good and no doubt that helped quite a bit in that rattly section.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
BVB, are you rocking the sportiva Tao in that NE sequence? I hated those things...they died a fast and much-deserved death. Good edging, though, I suppose.
|
|
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
|
awesome shots!!!
hey hutch, did u just find that???? hands or what??
was thinking of heading over to the pipestone maybe tomorrow.....
u be down?
-patrick
edit: could u send me the email with the pics also???
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
rhodo, those flippers i'm runnin' on dog's are 5.10 verticals. i liked 'em a lot until i got some fire ballets resoled with 5.10 rubber. the fire last/5.10 rubber matchup produced one hell of a fine shoe for cracks, slabs, and steep face climbing.
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
Pat, I found that and others yesterday near the Interstate on My side of the pass. I e-mailed Tom some pics of the finer (but not all ) pebbles that I found. I am down for something this week, let me know when you can and I can work out the kiddo situation.
edit: fist to wide-hands, I reckon--not sure if a kick-through would be helpful or not.
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
Did someone mention Overdrive in Yosemite?
Here's a shot of myself leading the roof. The crux as Tarbuster had said is just over the roof where the crack thins, and a tough 1-1/4 move bars the way to the top.
Since were on the subject of roofs, I should throw out the Dune Cracks, in the San Fernando valley, California. 43 feet of overhanging crack that varies from 1-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches. Great training for the aspiring crackmaster!
and a short movie clip too!!
[url=http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g56/lunarlevy/?action=view¤t=MVI_4270.flv]{{img}}h~~p://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g56/lunarlevy/th_MVI_4270.jpg[/img][/url]
|
|
Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
|
|
Red Rocks: Brother;s Crack
|
|
bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
|
|
Dune cracks beta??? I remember someone saying it was in encino, but don't remember where.????
|
|
Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
|
|
Here are some Alabama Sandstone roof crack classics:
Champagne Jam, 5.12a, Sand Rock, Alabama, August, 1984
The initial climbing history:
FFA: Greg Collins, 1984
2nd Ascent: Rob Robinson
3rd Ascent: Gene Smith
4th Ascent: Jeff Gruenberg
5th Ascent: H. Suzuki
Champagne Jam, Sand Rock, Alabama, August, 1984
Chandler's Roof, 5.12, Steele, Alabama, 1985
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
Big Bob's Big Wedgie...
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
MH2 do you have any shots of the Voodoo Amour roof?
|
|
quartziteflight
climber
Who knows?
|
|
roof cracks are my favorite....
Biggest tits
Life without parole
crackhouse
Nats
Spin to win
|
|
quartziteflight
climber
Who knows?
|
|
BVB,
That flagstaff sh#t looks rad! What's the climbing season there?
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
MH2 do you have any shots of the Voodoo Amour roof?
No. That was in the blissful pre-camera period.
I thought of that one but it is more of a hand traverse under a roof although it happens to go out the roof, too.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
it's pretty climbable right now. the all week, after-work-and-weekends-season starts in earnest in about 6 - 8 weeks and goes until the first snows next fall. best year-round climbing climate i've ever enjoyed.
|
|
rick d
climber
tucson, az
|
|
where is Alex Karr when you need him!
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
|
|
The Ghettosnake, Tuolomne:
Mason plugging. Photo by Andy Re.
Maneater, Josh:
Me plugging. Photo by Cho.
Cedar Eater, Mist Trail-Yos:
Andy plugging. Photo by me.
Manual Labor, Camp 4 talus-Yos:
Andy plugging. Photo by me?
Desiderata, Vedauwoo.
Jaybro plugging. Photo by me.
|
|
Landgolier
climber
the flatness
|
|
Still hasn't seen a repeat in over 20 years. Middle of nowhere, KY. OW in the cave to fists out the roof 25' or so, hard to see the size from photos but it flares the whole way.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
All the years of dirtbaggin' in the ditch in the 80's and this is the first I've seen of either of the two roof cracks posted above. CE and ML both look amazing!
|
|
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
|
pink chagrin
a jack tackle obscurity
|
|
rectorsquid
climber
Lake Tahoe
|
|
Why aren't they called ceiling cracks? I can stand on the roof of my house.
Odd how someone called the ceiling the "roof."
Dave
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
If they were ceilings how could you get above them?
Or maybe they are roof cracks because they go to the roof.
Some of the bouldering examples probably are ceilings.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
|
|
Deliverance - Lost Boulders, Yos
Might be the best crack problem in the Valley. Tight hands tapering to fingers near the lip. Stout ring lock crux. A little hard to find, but worth the search.
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
Yosemite never fails to deliver the goods--nice find.
|
|
richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
|
|
Nic Taylor first ascent of Country Road,Mt Buffalo Gorge,Australia.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
Deliverance? That looks good. Methinks it worth a trip come summer.
|
|
Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
|
|
Yea. Its real painful, to painful for me to climb it. Maybe I'll tape up next time.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Vertigo's third pitch is a terrific roof crack!
This photo shows a climber exiting onto the headwall above, right at the lip,
So while we don't see the roof so well, there's a good sense of the exposure:
from CLIMB!
|
|
sollybonton
Trad climber
leavenworth, wa
|
|
A little something we found out in the backyard. No free attempts yet, but with a little scrub... It's mostly gold camalots.
|
|
TC
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
|
|
La Zebree
|
|
ninjah
Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
|
|
does anybody, have any pics of the eldo roof in the owens river gorge? that climb gape idex 12c is the best roof crack I"ve ever climbed, (I hung twice), But climbing anything clean out that roof onsight is bad ass, croft style, not me, but weres the pics?
|
|
Jello
Social climber
No Ut
|
|
Here's a 30' roof, called the Macabre Wall Roof, 450' off the deck, mostly a crack (but the crux is when the crack ends 10' before the lip). It was first free climbed by my brother Greg in 1967. Has only been freed once more, in 2002. Ken Gygi, the 2nd ascenscionist, figured it's about 12c. Pretty impressive for the day!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Mesmerized, on Mariuolumne Dome IS one of my fave roof cracks.
Starts out fingers, long reach through to good hands, foot kicker high step over the lip...
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
"Passport to Insanity" in the Grampians of Australia... What a freakin line!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Yowza!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Never did it, but it is, um, a favorite picture.
For all you crusty old Eastern Sierra dads: Gong Show Roof!
From Climbing Number 52, January/February 1979
|
|
J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
|
|
|
Feb 12, 2009 - 09:53am PT
|
A little bouldering in Utah.
Draper on Green Tea Roof:
having a go:
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Feb 13, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
|
Chapiteau
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 10:57am PT
|
Man Tar, that Mesmerized is a big roof. On top rope I gunned to the lip and it gunned me off!!!!! It is a big high step, just to get that thing over with. I took it lightly and it sent me away with a heavy pack. Great shots.
Passport to Insanity looks to be about the best I've seen.
Bob J.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 11:05am PT
|
I second Bob on that passport to insanity. Holy Smokes.
Being a mediocre climber short on time, I never run out of stuff to do that's close to home, but that thing looks worth traveling, and at this point, training for.
Tom
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
|
Tar,
Thanks for the Leary 'Gong Show' shot. Totally classic! Even better in near-life size at Whiskey Creek in Mammoth. Mussy and I tried it about ten years ago. Got to the lip, levering off that TV-sized block at the end of the spooky tooth/rail when both his and my forearms went completely numb. I can swear my ulna was flexing against that block! Anyhow, there's apparently a chip out on the face that makes it much easier. Anyone other than Cilley every try the Bong Show?
***
Boa (kind of a roof; absolutely funky):
Bad Berries:
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
|
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
|
Some info on "Passport to Insanity" from an Oz climbing website:
A wild approach requiring a 4wd on the tracks, and good navigation skills on the walk-in. The area is famous for the line "Passport To Insanity" 135m grade 27, which involves a jam crack roof with a downhill angle, which resides 60m off the deck! Aiding the roof drops the free climbing grade to 20. The line has been photographed countless times and labelled the "best climb in Australia" by many.
I believe this route has only had one male ascent, by the infamous "H.B." Supposedly it's very tight for 'boy hands' and the 27 grade(5.12c/d)is apparently for 'girl hands'. Train hard!!
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
|
Russ, what is this sucker?
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
|
Looks like "Overhanging Hangover", Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks. Very cool 5.10a break through a huge roof. The super classic "Fiddler on the Roof" comes across the lip of this roof from the left...
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
|
Thanks, BrassNuts - throw it onto the ever-expanding list.
|
|
murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
|
i believe that's "most bitching"
|
|
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
|
hahaha
'your smart, i'm stupid; your attractive, i'm very unattractive"
|
|
pip the dog
Mountain climber
the outer bitterroots
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
|
“Flaring” “OffWidth” “Roof”
three words i have learned to run from. and if i hear then all in a row, i _really_ run.
striking to see how many of you actually seek them out. i promise you will never have to get in line behind me for one.
OTOH “Passport To Insanity” looks ab-fab! and i’m such a skinny twerp that i have verifiable “girl hands” (thanks for the that heads up, BrassNuts). which is why i looked at the 'Finger Cracks' thread long before this one.
hmmm... almost got the air miles to go fall off that. i'm certain my aussie pal lippy knows where it is. if only i knew where lippy is...
great thread, great photos. many thanks.
^,,^
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
|
Bump for more roof pics!
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
|
Bump for even more roof pics, EC on BBBW
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
|
Man, that antipodes roof is amazing, Brass Nuts. Cool stuff all!
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
|
Anyone heard of "K.D. Live"
Gah! I forgot to take pics the other day when we went to it. The biggish boulder at the base of Figures on a Landscape has a hard, steep, OW crack underneath it (literally 15' downhill/right from Figures start, right at the base of the astrodome).
It has enough change in size to make it fairly technical when you have to change tactics, around 15 or 20ft long. Probably 5.12 or 5.12+, I think Kevin rated it V6 when it was established. Basically hand/fist stacks and a knee with some constrictions that require trickery to pass, about 45-60degrees overhanging .
Maybe Mike or Shanti took some pics. It's another one that's a little too close to the ground, but you only notice it in maybe one spot when you need to sag down to get a foot out and around a constriction.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
|
Still waiting for a FFA...
More Air on the approach (slab variation):
Kinda fixed...
LCC's Schoolroom Roof. Opposite of o-dub. Althought the chimney variation to the right is kinda awkward...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
|
Not a crack, but 65' of horizontal pocket climbing over a flat landing- "High Spirits" V8
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
|
|
|
EC Does It
Social climber
Sonoma/San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
|
Awesome pics all around.
Snowey that roof crack looks awesome.
Kenny, let's see some more!
I've seen that huge box of pics you have...post up!
|
|
B-Dog
Trad climber
LOUISIANA
|
|
|
Apr 26, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
|
Here's a classic! I'll be back on this one soon.
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2009 - 09:23am PT
|
Classic but whats it called?A Dogs Roof?
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
|
Bump because that other thread linked me here, which is where we should always be.
C'mon eastsiders and ex eastsiders- where's the bitchin' roof crack boulder problem here? I've been looking, so far mediocrity or offwidth has been what I've found.
Anyone do the offwidth problem on the Birthday Boulder at the Buttermilk? I've done it from the fists, but only half assed the attempts on the enitire project. Go figure, but it's hard to find anyone else who wants to try the problem with me.
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
|
That's definitely Dog's Roof, cilley.
|
|
P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
|
a couple new butte things....
|
|
gumbyclimber
climber
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
|
I'm going to throw a teaser out there....
Hint: It's remote.
|
|
Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 04:28am PT
|
Hobbit Book (pilfered from rockclimbing.com):
From my Library:
Of course The Great Roof:
|
|
MaxJ
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 02:26am PT
|
Hey Tom, the birthday boulder roof goes (either way, even):
Posing on the Gong Show
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 11:18am PT
|
"Anyone do the offwidth problem on the Birthday Boulder at the Buttermilk? "
Did it first go in Fall of '07, dislocating my thumb in the process while pressing through the pivot. It's shown on the old Rockfax foldout topo thing with a "5.12 OW" notation, but isn't listed/described with the other problems, and the new Bishop Bouldering guide doesn't list it or even show it on the topo IIRC.
|
|
fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
|
"Here's a 30' roof, called the Macabre Wall Roof, 450' off the deck, mostly a crack (but the crux is when the crack ends 10' before the lip). It was first free climbed by my brother Greg in 1967. Has only been freed once more, in 2002. Ken Gygi, the 2nd ascenscionist, figured it's about 12c. Pretty impressive for the day!"
your brother freed a 12c roof in 1967?
that is surprising to say the least. that's light years ahead of its time.
'pretty impressive for the day' is an understatement.
great thread. keep em coming.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
|
What Greg was doing in the 60's is one of the best kept secrets in American climbing. He was waaay ahead of his time. What the boys in Cali were doing around the same time did not compare.
|
|
Prezwoodz
Big Wall climber
Anchorage
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
|
John Borland in Obed. Don't know if this really counts as a roof crack. It is a big roof crack / gorge with such easy holds it's probably a 5.8.
The big roof crack and a party on Organasm
Roof crack exit on Windows Route in Sedona.
The Nose route at Gibralter
Does this count?
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
|
Two takers on the Birthday Boulder Roof? That's awesome. I feel like I'm attending some sort of secret society meeting, or AA. I've never seen anybody on that thing except my dumb arse.
I've never figured out the technique to do the wide part. Do you get all the way in squeeze chimney style? That one end is pretty wide. Do you try that leavitation stuff? Stacks and feet way in?
Cool. good job on doing it. I'll have to give it another go. If I remember, from the fists was pretty tough. From fists, it was only a few horizontal moves before the cheater feet, then just a weird flare.
Maybe Wednesday night. That's the one night I can get out these days.
|
|
Darryl Cramer
Social climber
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
|
Here's Mr Cilley in action a couple of weeks ago....
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
|
where's that thing?
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 02:59am PT
|
So many roofs like that in Washington that I've already forgotten exactly where that one is.
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 04:08am PT
|
Jaws Roof, Yos.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:11am PT
|
First Ascent: Roofus, 5.11d, Nason Ridge Washington 2003
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:25am PT
|
Nice additions!
Prezwoodz has some killer shots on the last page too!
w00t!
|
|
ericz
climber
Ogden, UT
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
|
Kevin Fosburg leading the infamous Macabre Roof.
|
|
MattB
Trad climber
Tucson
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 01:24am PT
|
Big Bob's Big Wedge!
The hardest part is finding the thing...
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 04:52am PT
|
My current six-pitch project, 'Menopause', goes through seven or eight roofs up a head wall that's never been climbed. The red dot on the third roof is the current high point, but have been stalled out as my partner, Shane "The Deli" Polizzano, moved down to the Bay area and I haven't found another yet. It could no doubt use a Cilley-Powered® assist if you ever managed to wander down PDX-way.
Here's a shot of it from back on the tracks aways. The upper of the two red dots at the bottom of this pic is the high point marked on the photo above.
|
|
Dodo
Trad climber
Spain/UK
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 08:42am PT
|
There is actually only one roof crack, and it's Rays (Jardine) Roof at Baldstones in the Peak District.
|
|
skychild
Trad climber
Birmingham, Alabama
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 11:24am PT
|
Mister E, I don't see any crack in your photos but I do see some bolts WTF
Don
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
|
Is that thing behind the... curtain fair game, Patrick?
|
|
426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 06:38pm PT
|
Take a nibble of Human Chew Toy. Full of detritus again, I'm positive!
But why get all per-tick-u-lar, a'sides, looks like these roof cracks never go on long enough...hehe. Better drop the clutch to Maximum Overdrive!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
|
"hi, My name is Thunder chicken."
"hi, Thunder chicken" a chorus...
|
|
426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 06:41pm PT
|
Braack?
Red River Bloodfest 2010?
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
|
That lower one looks like a boatload of fun - where is it?
|
|
Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
|
Two fun ones in J. Tree
Yabo Roof J. Tree
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
|
I'd love to help you out on that Portland project,but I,m Yosemite based once again.Meanwhile, I did a new roof near El Portel.Hands thin hands then spicy lieback around the lip with the pro getting further below you and the ground getting seemingly closer. No pics. but tours are available.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
|
Damned if everyone isn't goin' South. Good timing given the weather back up here...
|
|
426
climber
Buzzard Point, TN
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
|
Healy-Obed, TN. Ever read "Gilded Age" by Twain? Opening scene is there, amusingly...
This thread needs a Passport to Insanity to become fully realized!
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 01:01am PT
|
426 - Thanks, I'm going to have to try and make it down that way some time.
|
|
jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
|
|
|
richross
Trad climber
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
|
Red Tape,Gunks 1979.
|
|
matty
Trad climber
los arbor
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
|
|
|
jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
|
Someone's got the shingles!
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 05:56pm PT
|
Sonja (s.d.) gettin' after it on Morongo Man.
One of the best roof cracks in Joshua Tree, in my opinion!
Big thanks to our good friend Paul Schwartz for taking some cool photos that weekend!
-Nick
|
|
Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 06:55pm PT
|
Someone needs to name a roof crack 'Roofies'.
Oh wait, I've got one I'm working. I call it.
|
|
slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 07:22pm PT
|
I'll dig out the photo asap- What the big boys Eat 12 !? North veedawoo. 6 -#3'5 friends. Even bob Scarpelli was gruntin'.
|
|
eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
|
Holy sh#t, Morongo Man looks amazing! Thanks for the pics Gonzo and good climbing with you this weekend.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Apr 12, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
|
What size in morongo man. That one looks good. Methinks I should try next time I'm down that way.
|
|
More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2010 - 12:48am PT
|
Steve Hong, Coffin Roof, Little Cottonwood Canyon
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2010 - 02:37am PT
|
Hopefully, sometime in the near future, I will photograph and post the most insane roof crack EVER--assuming that I can drive the 40 miles and capture it in its full glory.
Be afraid, be very afraid, of what the future holds...
|
|
Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2010 - 03:07am PT
|
Yeah Morongo Man is killer fun!!
|
|
Chief
climber
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2010 - 10:45am PT
|
Thanks for the photos of Morongo Man.
Back in the 80's it was a Josh "must do" and I did it with a dude named Micheal from Colorado. Classic!
I think Cozzy will agree that "Huge and Choice" 11d qualifies as a Josh "must do" roof crack as well.
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
|
Tom,
The starting dihedral is #4 camalot size. The roof takes a variety of sizes because its pretty irregular. You can find really good jams, but it's definitely not an IC splitter! 0.5 camalot to #3 camalot will serve you well. There's a fixed hex about 3/4 of the way out the roof, also.
For the purposes of full disclosure, I have not completed the route yet; So I can't comment on what you need above the roof, only out to the lip.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2010 - 07:04pm PT
|
Thanks Chemist, sounds really intriguing.
|
|
mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
|
I made it out there this morning to finally capture THE roof crack in all of its glory:
The site--boulder in left foreground is 20' tall, the roof crack follows the shade on arch from left to right.
Improbable tips crack (not a roof crack, but steep)
THE roof crack of all time--(the tips crack is on the smooth portion of "cave" left of the big roof crack).
Looking back out of "cave"--the 20' boulder can be seen in the lower center.
All this one takes to climb is 60'+ of A0 or 5.13+? on the face, followed by 80'-100' of hands to OW--rap straight down 150+' and you're home free!
It's not aesthetic (or even climbable, really), but it sure is BAD AZZ!
|
|
Vin
Trad climber
Louisiana
|
|
|
Aug 15, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
|
|
|
Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
|
Coach Crack , Rock Creek, anywhere from 13b to c.
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2011 - 01:05am PT
|
Hadn't seen this thread earlier. Awesome pics everyone. Thanks for posting.
|
|
Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2011 - 01:41am PT
|
"There is a really good roof crack out by pala. I think you go up couser canyon road and it's on the east side. You have to climb a slab route to get to the roof. We took Rick Piggot up there and he onsight lead the roof. If I remember it was hands to thin hands and 25 ft long. I think he rated it 5.12something. If your driving south on I-15 and know where to look, you can see the roof in the east as your driving up the hill from the pala turnoff."
|
|
domngo
climber
Canada
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
|
P.C himself flashed this - The Monument @ White's Bluff, Ontario Escarpment
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
|
That's^^^a big roof.
|
|
A5scott
Trad climber
Chicago
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
|
Shockley's Ceiling... best 5.3 ever with a 5.6 move at the roof
|
|
domngo
climber
Canada
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2011 - 05:12am PT
|
|
|
Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2011 - 10:51am PT
|
inspiring thread--there's nothing like a roof.
missing so far: le toit at tahquitz.
also missing: a few accounts. the threads on lucille this year tell something of the saga a great roof problem can pose. c'mon, you illiterates, there's more to books than looking at pictures.
:-D
|
|
fsck
climber
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2011 - 11:29am PT
|
|
|
Johnny K.
climber
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2011 - 11:33am PT
|
Crackhouse
|
|
Sonic
Trad climber
Roaming the South, Merica
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
|
roof byump!
|
|
Stimbo
Trad climber
Crowley Lake
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
|
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
|
Got on this stellar route with two overhaning pitches, one being a proper roof crack, the other just being really steep.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2012 - 09:23pm PT
|
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
|
^^^^^
inspiring thread--there's nothing like a roof.
missing so far: le toit at tahquitz.
also missing: a few accounts. the threads on lucille this year tell something of the saga a great roof problem can pose. c'mon, you illiterates, there's more to books than looking at pictures.-TBird
Generally I agree, Tiger. But we should remain above criticizing illiteracy.
I cannot climb roof cracks, except the ones in my head, and I never could. I am separately real about that.
And Tony let me wish you a successful new year, the holidays, meh...
Really grrreat talking to you at the OCF; I posting now one pic of one Toney Bird at Flames City, if you'd like to see him in full plumage, not just stuck in a crack.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Dec 16, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
|
Need mo roofs .....
|
|
Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
|
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
|
Where are the Kingsbury boys?
|
|
PeteC
climber
|
|
|
Dec 23, 2012 - 11:17pm PT
|
|
|
Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 25, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
|
A few I've gotten to do this fall/winter.
|
|
richross
Trad climber
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
|
Chris Davis (I think) on Foops early to mid 80's.
|
|
richross
Trad climber
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
|
Fred Yaculic on The V, mid 80's.
|
|
bjj
climber
beyond the sun
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
|
Has SLC been repped in this thread yet? Couple of good ones in LCC.
Coffin Roof (12a)
and
Trench Warfare (12d)
I've done the former. Wouldn't even waste the rubber on my hiking boots going to the latter, what with 5.10 OW having been my limit for 2 decades.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
third stone from the sun,
the next move is
kicking the feet into the maw,
while holding on with fist jams at the paws,
i couldn't do it last year.
whipped outta there.
im a next-year-hopeful
|
|
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
Who is that woman on Gong Show?
Hubba Hubba!
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
Bump.
|
|
crunch
Social climber
CO
|
|
Call them things roof cracks? Meh!
THIS is a roof crack:
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
YES!!!! awesome!
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Let me know when you find one between 2.56 and 2.72 inches wide. As I get older my "sweet spot" is in a narrower range- same with temperature.
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 08:44am PT
|
Bumpage...
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
|
"Back Breaker Roof" (5.11d OW), Lower Olmstead Point, Tuolumne Meadows, California:
FA: Elliott Robinson 1990
|
|
Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
|
^^^^ Jeez! Talk about taking your sweet time . . .
Good Job!
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
|
This is the mighty Roofs of Mordor on Journey Through Mirkwood on the Painted Wall in the Black Canyon. The FA is by a bunch of Gunnison guys (including the Gambler), but the first FFA of the roof was by the late Jonny Copp and Robbie Williams, 5.11/5.12 depending on who you talk to. Philo was on the 2nd ascent of this route and I know he can tell you there is Lots of exposure up there.
Photo courtesy of Brad Brandewie and mp.com
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 03:08pm PT
|
Friend took one of me on the Enema. Cool shot.
|
|
Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
|
|
|
Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
|
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Dec 15, 2016 - 02:09am PT
|
That youtube shows just how ridiculous climbing is...
|
|
the Swami
Gym climber
bishop
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
|
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2017 - 01:30pm PT
|
That is a killer photo, Swami
|
|
Stimbo
Trad climber
Crowley Lake
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2017 - 03:40pm PT
|
If I am not mistaken, the photo credit goes to Christian Pondella.
|
|
rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2017 - 07:59pm PT
|
Who took the pic of Kevin Leary on Gong Show roof...? Stimbo...?
|
|
Stimbo
Trad climber
Crowley Lake
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
|
Who took the pic of Kevin Leary on Gong Show roof...? Stimbo...?
None other!
|
|
rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2017 - 08:08pm PT
|
You can't be Galen Rowell...You don't know what you're doing...rj
|
|
rincon
climber
Coarsegold
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2017 - 06:24am PT
|
Did that guy loose his keys?
|
|
rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2017 - 08:54am PT
|
Brennan.. Who told you...? Yeah , i smashed my thumb with a 32 oz. framer after doing a bong reep...The guy i was working with was laughing his ass off and asked me why i did it.. It throbbed for an entire day...My doctor friend heated up a paper clip to lance the thumb nail and release the pressure...I passed out on his kitchen floor and came to with him slapping me in the face...LMAO
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2017 - 05:26pm PT
|
^ Sick Alex!
Ojai has splitters now??
|
|
d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2017 - 08:52am PT
|
Should it not be termed ceiling crack?
The roof is the slab above.
Either way them cracks
do excite!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2017 - 04:52pm PT
|
Ojai Alex said:
I’ve thought about doing a trip report for it, but I’ve never done one. Plus, other people on here post (and don’t post...) much more gnar stuff, so it’s a little embarrassing. Much more Gnar?
Forget about that Alex! That looks like some powerful climbing.
Start posting up more of your stuff please!!!
.............................
And great to see the Kingsbury offerings are still working.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2017 - 04:52pm PT
|
Some highlights I had missed over the years from this thread:
Like this one from Gonzo Chemist of Sonja on Morongo Man out at Josh.
That thing is full on hands and fist (or cupped hands and fist), or so I am told. How often do we see a woman crushing this thing, or anyone for that matter?
And this one, from Pete C, of some undesignated talented young woman giving a trad master class on Gong Show roof:
Or this terrific shot of V on Enema Crack:
(looks like in his pajamas!)
 All three of these seem to me to be climbs that are rarely photographed. Very cool!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2017 - 04:54pm PT
|
The iconic MOUNTAIN magazine cover, Separate Reality, Ray Jardine:
........................................
And some repeats from my not so secret stash:
A young Tarbaby, Climb of the Century, 1982:
Walling photo
Me and my favorite blue jeans, Le Toit, Tahquitz, 1983:
Mari & TBust, Windfall, Tower of the Cosmic Gods, Yos, 1983:
Headless cowboy, Mesmerized, TM, 1990s:
Prod, just poking up out of the short roof at the very top, West Face of Castleton, direct finish, 1990s:
Some of us old forum hands may remember BlackBird:
(probably an incipient crack in that roof somewhere … Oh, her foot is in a crack)
|
|
L
climber
And I'm searchin' for waterspouts...
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
|
Holy Moly those are some fabulous shots!!!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2017 - 04:57pm PT
|
Hey Friend ... You still following this thread?
A buddy of mine in California, still in great shape, would be very interested to talk with you about bouldering at Black Mountain.
The messaging function on this forum is kaput.
Would you mind sending me a regular e-mail so I can see about hooking the two of you up?
rcmcclenahan at gmail
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2017 - 09:08pm PT
|
Mtn. Mag. #56, Jul./Aug. '77 . . . EB's, oval biners, primitive Friends, stuff sack chalk bags . . . priceless.
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2017 - 04:28pm PT
|
The "tompaulrandall" instagram also has a great little video of him campusing the Crack House. Humbling, to say the least.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
I can't remember the name of this Gunks climb. Some oddball short bombay chimney with crack in the back out a roof. Not nearly as cool as any image in the thread. I just felt the Gunks needed some representation. Gotta find better pix.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Already posted, just another angle.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
THNX for posting Gunkie I can't make out what that is?
I was hoping to add Erect Direction from my collection , but. . .& my own addition
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Kor Roof
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Gunks, No Exit (@Skytop... RIP)
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Someone was looking for a Shockley's Ceiling image. Not bad for 5.6
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Gunks, Kansas City
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Gunks, Slightly Roddy on TR. Classic roadside sandbag.
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Gunks, Spinal Traction on aid. Has this been freed yet?
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Ahwahnee Bartender... Awesome pic of the 2nd pitch of Bishop's Balcony!!
|
|
Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
|
|
Double roof on a Pennsylvania choss pile
|
|
FatMatt
Trad climber
Boston, MA
|
|
|
Oct 17, 2018 - 08:10pm PT
|
Anyone have any photos of Overdrive in (above) the Valley?
I tried it back in '87 with a guy named "Mr. Way" when I was working in the Valley. It was my first real roof and I tried leading it but couldn't touch the foot torqueing. Was able to follow the .10d slightly-over-vertical part after the roof. Cool obscure climb.
Plus - kudos to the climber and photos of Boa shown earlier. Have been under that climb when climbing Unnatural Act. Seriously impressive flaring roof.
|
|
mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
|
|
|
Oct 18, 2018 - 07:01am PT
|
OMG! This is the first time I’ve seen this thread. Went through the whole thing this morning. There’s a lot of effort and pain to be found in those pictures.
Here’s a shot of what Largo was asking for on the first page.
River Boulder Crack 1973 Yosemite.
Ten second approach from the road just up from Arch Rock.
|
|
Leeprechaun
Social climber
Austin
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2018 - 08:30am PT
|
A couple of good ones out at Enchanted Rock, TX
|
|
| Messages 1 - 255 of total 255 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!