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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
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From Mountain #89 Jan/Feb 1983 an excellent survey of the fabled boulders....
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 29, 2008 - 10:51pm PT
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Very cool that you have posted this, Steve. thanks tons. Fontainebleau is one of the parts of the Great Puzzle.
best to you and Mimi.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Last >>
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Nov 30, 2008 - 12:19am PT
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The Real Thing (Moon / Moffat video) is a nice introduction to Fontainebeau also if you can find a copy . Thanks for another small-stone thread on zee taco .
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 12:26am PT
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Thanks Steve, great post. Going bouldering in Fontainebleau is one of my major goals.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Nov 30, 2008 - 01:24am PT
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Fontainebleau is a fascinating place as its forest is also the birthplace of the "Barbizon School" of painting which became the approach to landscape painting that would eventually give us Impressionism. The fine art of bouldering and the fine art of painting all wrapped up in one venue! Those Frenchies are so civilized.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2008 - 11:33am PT
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It has to be the most intriguing and historically rich bouldering area anywhere.
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brett
climber
oregon
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The blue at La Roche aux Sabons is certainly the most perfectly enjoyable day on the rocks I've ever had. Not considering ourselves boulderers, we stopped in at Fontainbleau only because of the sheer numbers of folks who told us not to miss it. We ended up rearranging our trip to spend a week+ there.
guidebook: "It is difficult to find adjectives to describe what this trail has to offer"
amen
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 11:25am PT
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Any snapshots???
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Marek
climber
Haarlem
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I live 550 km from Fontainebleau but it is the climbing area I visit the most often.
All the info/picture/movies you need at:
http://bleau.info/
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Unfortunately, I lost all my Bleau photos a few years back. I may get a quick trip in around the end of March-- if so, I'll do a tr.
Meanwhile, this article over at UKC is a decent historical overview:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1478
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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That is kick A$$!!!!
Hey Chris Mac - Here's an idea for the next edition of the Yosemite Bouldering Guides.... Circuits!!!! V-Easy thru V-Elite... I'm sure us Americans can handle putting these things together on our own, but I think it would be cool to have a guide for everything from easy jams, to moderate crimping, to stone cold-a$$ difficult highball circuits.. That would be cool, IMHO
Cool article, will definitely read further tonight!
Thank you Steve.. Priceless find!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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I passed thru and sampled some of those pebbles for an hour or so.
The place is vast and magical...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 11:26pm PT
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A couple of very small photos by Gustave Le Grey from the late 1850's shot in Fontainebleau.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Steve Grossman
These are beautiful photos. There is some great painting that comes out of this period as well: Daubigny, Corot and Theodore Rousseau. The "pictorialist" nature of your photos really imitates the "Barbizon School" of painting. If you enjoy those photos you'll love the artists I mentioned check them out and thanks.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Bleu does suck
Its the stonie point of France.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
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Some more background on the area from Climbing 1982.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Fontainebleau is French for "Ripped Seniors":
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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Nice Chalk Chickenfeet!
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).
That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there versus a 300 mile trip, with Seneca Rocks a couple hours from there and New River Gorge a couple hours in a different direction.
(Or the Gunk 2 hours from my driveway, and the Adirondacks 4-5 hours away, etc.)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).
That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there . . . ."
True. 'Bleau could never compare with Seneca. You should stay home.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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klk, read more carefully. I did not compare it to Seneca Rocks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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International boulder bump!
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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A beautiful area, and humbling. I spent a month in Paris learning how to drill big holes in the seabed, only made to Font twice, got rained out on one of the trips.
Incredible scenery, friendly locals, and fun (if somewhat sandy) boulders.
Sort of reminded me of our homegrown shortstone in the southeast.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Fountainbleau, 1976
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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Nice photo, Marty!
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Fantastic photo. Got more?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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Nice shots Wes! Those bumpy boulders in the middle of the show are amazing!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Check out the paint on the boulder. not sure how hard the thing was. This was a trip where I started in the UK and failed on London Wall, remember yo yo wasnt allowed in the UK in those days, top roped White Wall, and did some other good things in the Peak district. I cannot believe that this Alex guy onsited without a rope, London Wall....geeze.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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tx 4 the pix wes.
i love elephant. all the parisians loathe the place, but f*#k 'em. plus chalet jobert across the street.
elephant noir and chalet jobert!
frickin heaven.
one of the very few places i might trade for the sierras.
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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Peter H. said it right its definitely part of the puzzle. Always want to go there but have never been. I've talked to several people that have said the rock is similar to castle rock in the S. C. mountains sure looks that way in the photos.
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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weschrist
thanks for the clarification
Barry
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Derek
climber
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I once spent an entire spring and summer climbing in France. I did tons of classic alpine routes, hit most of the legendary sport areas, detoured in to Switzerland and Italy for a couple-few weeks, etc. Along the way I met and climbed with great partners. It was among the greatest summers of my life.
My fondest memories of that trip are of wondering alone through the forest of the Bleu with a pair of shoes and a rosin bag. They didn't allow chalk in those days. Not sure if they do now as it's been a while. It is easily in the very top few climbing areas I've ever visited.
I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.
-Derek
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Marty,
Nice shot.
Mike G. and I were there that same year that you went, 1976.
Also returned the next year with Rob Muir who took this shot.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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cool link klinefelter, what else you got in the archive?
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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It's nice to see shots of the climbing that are not magazine picks. Thanks to all.
All this only adds to the aura of those woods. Someday...
Wes -- appreciate the explanation of geology, even if it seems the mystery lingers. No pressure? I'll wait for your thesis to make it all clear. Then we shall address you as Doctor Bleau.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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Perhaps Rgold has a few to share...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 23, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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Ok Steve,
Here's one of Bob Williams from the late sixties cross-posted from Jello's '57 climbing thread
What is striking is the lack of chalk on the rock in those pre-chalk days. But what isn't visible is that the French use of rosin (pouf) was in some ways more defacing, because the rosin transferred seemingly permanent black stains from shoe rubber to footholds. Still, the awful white smears everywhere in the more recent photos is quite jarring.
Note too the little square of carpet ( le tapis ) that was a 'Bleau essential for keeping the sand off the soles of your shoes. In the other post I joking referred to it as an old-school crash pad.
Here's another one of Bob Williams. Note the white dot---I think we were on one of the circuits.
Fontainbleau is a truly magical area---I don't think any climber, no matter how peblophobic, could go there and not become entranced with bouldering. And ze french grimpeurs! Not only did we find them to be incredibly hospitable, but the checkered picnic cloths, the wine and cheese, and (ahem) bikini-clad bouldering babes were, how you say, fantastique!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Thanks Rich!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 12:46am PT
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Bouldering Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
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A Ron Matous shot of the business from Summit February/ March 1980.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Dec 22, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2010 - 10:53pm PT
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Thanks, Marty!
Such a sweet looking problem!
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Dec 28, 2010 - 03:39am PT
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Poke
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Ain't been bumped in years...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Thanks for those video links Marlow!!!
Really gives you a feel for the place...cool stuff!
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Mar 18, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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One of my kids at Bleau, sat in a pocket!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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Bump for ambiance...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 26, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
A video showing the forest and some of it's stones very well. An ordinary day with climbers climbing at a low to moderate level.
The problems of the circles of Font are marked with colour. You have the easiest white problems - then the yellow (jaune) problems - the green (vert) ones - the blue (bleu) - the red and at last - the hardest black problems. Some places there are problems harder than the black ones marked with white colour.
You may have three different blue circles in the same area - Apremont is an example. Then the painted shade of blue of the three circles are different.
The guys in this video are primarily climbing blue problems. They are talking Swedish.
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Hannes
Ice climber
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Mar 26, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
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I'm not much into bouldering but I wouldn't mind a week in Font. Its an amazing experience but you get pretty humbled coming there, I had to try two or three times to get up a Font 2B. Later when spending a few hours trying to get up the ultra classic La Marie Rose, 6A without luck, an elderly french gentleman strolls up, says "Bonjour", puts a bit of pof on his shoes and does it without a wobble.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 26, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
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Hannes.
I've also had that experience. A local in his 60ies with his backpack easily climbing a problem I have been struggling with and continuing up the next problem effortlessly. And the young guns/bleausards cruising around on the stone talking about us northerners as "tres serieux" when we struggle on their warm-up problems and then "allez, allez" on our next try. LOL...
La Marie Rose - the first 6a climbed in the forest:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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Busy little bumps!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Never been to a place that you could have so much fun while learning so much at the same time.
Font could very well be the best climbing in the world, thanks everyone for the inspiration.
Magique.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
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Video bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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Very nice addition Marlow!
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Thanks for all the videos, especially of the more moderate routes that I can do...
As said several times up thread, I think many Americans don't realize how truly vast Bleau is. Most of the media attention is on just a few of the areas, and there are probably more than a hundred, each with 100's of problems. This is of course due to the geological bounty as well as the long history and the proximity to Paris, as well as the absence of other options close by. It is hard to think of such a good climbing area so close to a major metropolitan area. It's just 50km from the center of Paris...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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yeah, nothing like it. beautiful area with amazing history and wild variety in the movement.
my favorite stone ever.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Sep 30, 2012 - 06:00pm PT
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@ Marlow. 2:05 Jo Montchausse, legend. Thanks for posting the video.
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BlackSpider
Ice climber
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Sep 30, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
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Hannes and Marlow:
Isn't "La Marie Rose" the 6A problem that Adam Ondra slipped off the same day he flashed "Gecko Assis" 8B/+?
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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I once had a friend tell me the only thing expensive about climbing was the tickets to get there. The fascination to go to new places and experience new things has somehow been lost on johnny come lately climbers.The nostalgia for new people, experiences, fresh ideas and challenges are what I've always loved and will always want from climbing. I want to go to there...............
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Hey BlackSpider,
Your memory serves you well, Marie Rose was ONE of the problems Ondra slipped off. The other one was Angle Allain, which is even easier (originally 5+ or V2?). And certainly easier than the stuff he did send/OS/flash in the same outing.
Sometimes you gotta take a whipping with pride.
Lasti
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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@Kenygl I had a similar feeling for Yosemite this year and in my 50th year I finally made it. I have been to Font many times and probably take it for granted. If bouldering is also your thing then you will not be disappointed. It's also very close to Paris so you can do the touristy bit and climb at the same time. Hope you make it.
Andy
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Borut
climber
french
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Oct 10, 2012 - 10:26am PT
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The Roche Hercule is close to the city of Fontainebleau. Trains to Fontainebleau leave Paris from the Gare de Lyon station every hour or so.
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Borut
climber
french
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Oct 21, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 22, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Fontainebleau: Romancing the stone. A lot of climbing, mainly problems grade 6a-7a from 7:50. http://vimeo.com/33497406
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Dec 25, 2012 - 06:39am PT
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I love Paris, Jennie (who lived in NIce for three years in the mid-1970s after fleeing Ireland) loves Provençe, and I worked in a winery there (Chateau Montaud, Domaines Ravel, Pierrefeu-du-Var).
Now back to the Fontainbleau, I only bouldered there once. But an article by an author with the surname French leaves me suspect to the objectivity of such an article. Okay, hah hah just joking, good article and well written.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 10, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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sooo torn between Fontainebleau and a (much cheaper and rope filled) road trip in the states this year. decisions decisions decisions... been to Fontainebleau 3x and just can't get enough... but $$$$$$$ and time and $$$$ and dogs and $$$$ and time....
3 wks in Font or 3+++ weeks driving around...
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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3 wks in Font or 3+++ weeks driving around...
if you have the calendar and the cash, how could that even be a choice?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
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I know, 3+ months on the road is pretty boring... whereas 3 weeks of wine, pastries, and perfect slopers is not.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jan 10, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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and perfect slopers Is there such a thing as a perfect sloper?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jan 19, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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Font Parkour
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Mechrist's photos above show the remarkable surface you find on some of the stones.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 20, 2013 - 03:28am PT
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Andy, if you have been to font you would know the answer!
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F'ueco
Boulder climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Jan 22, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
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OMG, now I really want to go bouldering... Why am I stuck at work on a beautiful January day?
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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uhhhhhggggg! Decided to stay in the states... uhhhgggggg! This thread is torture!
a
h
h
h
h
h
h
h
h
h
h
ggggg!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 10, 2013 - 04:54am PT
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Fontainebleau - some of the excellent traverses (Vertical nov 1995)
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 10, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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^^^ ha, and five of them at Rocher Canon, nice and close to the Bois-le Roi train station.
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
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Something for evertbody. That's one of the great things in Bleau. Bouldering in Bleau can be just as difficult as you'd like it to be, and so many circuits throughout the forest are dedicated to beginners, or there are even those especially put up for small children.
Globally speaking, bouldering can be frustrating if you're not... say at least at Fb 6a level, but in Bleau, you'll find everything - harder stuff or easier problems.
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 11, 2013 - 12:13am PT
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Rocher Canon is great. It really is. Many probs of all difficulties. Easy, intermediate and hard circuits. Cool landings. And the closeness to the Bois-le-Roi train station makes it possible to enjoy half-day outings there, starting from Paris. I'd often go there early in the morning, enjoying the forest waking up... birds, squirrels, wild boars, deer.
It can take one just one hour from the departure from Gare de Lyon (Paris) to Rocher Canon. Trains to and fro - like every hour. And you can even take a bike along on the train (bike rentals around Gare de Lyon).
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poli
climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 12, 2013 - 04:31am PT
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for me the best spot in Font was Cuvier or something like that. It's just beside the road, with millions of boulders, nice scenery and excellent climbing :)
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 12, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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Yes, I guess Cuvier rules in Bleau (Bas-Cuvier + Rempart). There you'll find everything.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 12, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
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Just wondering: Do they still use rosin at 'bleau? If you don't use it, then you must to do some of the problems? They won't go without it?
Gosh, this place looks so much like Castle Rock State Park I almost want to say I know which problems they're doing . . .
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 12, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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I refused to use pof when I was there. It CLEARLY alters the texture of the rock. It fills in all the pore spaces with resin, which will NOT come off without the use of a solvent other than water. The result is a smooth, glassy surface with a much lower frictional coefficient. The only way to stick is to use more pof.
Magnesium carbonate (gym chalk) washes off with water and more importantly is EASILY brushed off to regain the original texture... Bleau is all about texture.
My understanding is that the locals don't like chalk because it is "ugly." Which is apparently why they saw fit to scribble "STOP MAGNESIA" in red marker or lipstick or something at the base of Toit de Cul de Chien and other classic problems last time I was there.
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Borut
Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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^^^ Nice share!
I've used pof (resin) and still would, but sparingly, mostly to help out with sole adhérence on polished smears. Often apply it on the rubber and 'rub' it in till it squeaks.
I'll be using magnesia on limestone - just can't get used to it on Bleau sandstone.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 15, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
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"Will I go to jail if I use Pof?
Not a French jail. This is another controversial and highly emotional topic and it's hard to have a rational discussion without some nationalism creeping in on both sides of the debate. Briefly, pof is dried pine tree resin that French Font climbers wrap up in cloth and smack the rock with to increase adherence. Some French climbers use it instead of chalk - usually older ones; most use both now.
CON: it's cheating; it makes the holds polished and glassy; you need more pof once a hold has been poffed, creating a vicious cycle; it makes the holds black and look like crap. Old French guys use it who climb harder than me. If you use it outside Font you risk bodily harm.
PRO: it's natural; isn't as visible as chalk; pof may prevent the surface erosion of the sandstone "skin" above the crumblier sandstone underneath; its use is recommended over chalk by COSIROC, the local climbing governing body, its use is recommended over chalk by bleau.info website; it annoys the British."
From: ukclimbing
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 22, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
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The photos are taken from Sylvain Jouty's excellent book: Bleau. La Foret de Fontainebleau et ses rochers. 1982.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 24, 2013 - 04:21am PT
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Marlow, sick stuff man! Those old photos are unreal!
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Love it! Maybe in the fall...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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I'm cross posting this as it's relevant to several threads.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Blakey: TFPU. Could you tell us the story of the shoes?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Climbing i Fontainebleau - in the beginning. (La Montagne Juin 1966)
Blakey: Great Facebook site and interesting photos. I hope the next step is to organize and contextualize the photos better.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Hi Marlow,
I stumbled across them (the photo) on the Facebook site I posted up about the other day.
https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos_stream
There's no annotation other than ALLAIN 1948......
As I mentioned on the other thread there's quite a few older photos, of Comici for example that I've not seen elsewhere.
Regards,
Steve
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Jeffrey VanMiddlebrook
Boulder climber
Mountain View, CA
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Mar 17, 2013 - 04:05am PT
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Wish I had known of that venue in 1982 when I was living in France and still climbing. Gorgeous.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 18, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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Fontainebleau February
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Mechrist
From Oslo: Around 1000 miles. Time by train: 24 hours. Driving a car: 20 hours. Flying: 2,5 hours.
I'm off to Font in the near future climbing with someone bouldering problems not far from my own level. I'm too competitive to climb with someone far above my own level... Lol...
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Mar 18, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
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Nice. How far from Oslo? Just curious... there is this job thingy... I might apply.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Mar 18, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Nice video Marlow. Love that move at 4:58.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 18, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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Andy.
Cool move. The use of momentum and swing is an art.
And excuse me for hijacking Steve's thread. I will start a new one... soon.
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Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Mar 24, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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Would anyone know the best season to go there?
Thanks!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 24, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
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Scott
Here is a link to ukclimbing's Font information: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1567
This is what they have to say about when to go there:
"Anytime really - that's the truth. Traditionally people say spring and autumn, but winter can have perfect conditions (February is the driest cold month) though it can get bitter cold. People complain about the summer heat and humidity but plenty of hard climbing gets done in the summer, such as Jackie Godoffe's 8b projects in Orsay this summer, and the 7c+ Fahrenheit 91.4 put up by Thierry Gueguen in July. In the summer heat though most people just reduce their grade and do circuits, or climb early and late and siesta in the hot middle of the day.
You can expect to have some rain at any time, but this shouldn't be a big problem because you probably need a rest day anyway. Actually many areas dry extremely quickly, generally if they are high up on the slopes of the numerous little hills (pignons) in the forest, such as 95.2, Apremont, Gorge des Chats. As you get closer to the time of your trip, take a look at bleau.info which has the best links to online weather resources, but what are you going to do? Cancel? May is the rainiest month but not by much. You shouldn't really rule a trip in or out based on the time of year unless you really need it to be cold for a difficult project."
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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Marlow, I'm sure Steve doesn't mind. I sure don't :-)
One of the best threads going.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
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And we'll always have Paris...
I love the way this thread has filled out thanks to Marlow and everyone else!
We are creating something truly unique on this forum with respect to climbing history and it would be spectacular if folks put their energy into that aspect of being here.
The supertopo forum has broad reach so SHARING yields big rewards.
Do what YOU can to make this forum a better place.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Mar 24, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
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Here's a couple of pictures from my first visit to Font. It was 1988 (hence the shorts!!) and I was 27. Did the Orange circuit at Bas Cuvier. In the days before bouldering mats the card board is just to keep the sand off my rock boots. I had a pair of Calanques which were a cheap version of EBs here in the UK.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 24, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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Cool Andy.
Steve
I take that as: keep on posting.
Here's another video showing the excellent bouldring in the magic forest:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Scott McNamara
climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Mar 24, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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Thanks, Marlow!
and thanks Steve.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 05:32pm PT
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That's a big 10-4 Marlow!
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Mar 24, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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Hey Marlow what is the music between 3:00 and 7:00? I know you say in the credits it is Lil Quest but I can't find that track anywhere.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 24, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
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Andy
It's a great Finnish Font video that came drifting on the web. I believe Toni LilQuest is the music maker (and not Lil Quest): https://soundcloud.com/lilquest
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Mar 24, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
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Hey Marlow thanks for the link. That section is called Hip-pop Piano.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Yeah Andy, I also did that orange circuit @ Bas Cuvier. I only had 3 days there but that one in particular is one of my most memorable days of climbing, pure fun factor. Thanks for the pics.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 30, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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Kids climbing in Font
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Great ways to get down from the stone after topping out at 07:40 and 07:50.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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The formation of the stones of Fontainebleau (La Montagne Oct 1965)
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Hey Marlow I have some more of those papers (some in English) if you are interested. I am an Engineering Geologist by trade and have corresponded with Medard Thiry who is based at the Ecole des Mines de Paris. He has written several papers on the subject.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Andy: It would be great to get the articles in English and post them for others to read. Do you have the opportunity to post them?
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Marlow I have one of them with me. I'm at work!!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Thanks Andy, that's phenomenal in both senses of the word...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool Andy!! thanks dude!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Fontainebleau - three not well known areas - Le Paradis, Chaintreauville and Les Mammouths (Grimper dec 04/jan 05)
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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The excellent Font guide "Escalade a Fontainebleau. Les plus beaux sites" has been updated.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Thanks so much for those articles! I read the earlier paper(s) by Thiry. I think they dealt with the smaller scale features.
Can't wait until I have time to read those.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 14, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 18, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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Marlow, ur a machine man. Thanks for always providing the French climbing porn, so inspiring that forest is.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 26, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
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91.1 Much climbing and a little photography.
A video showing the climbing of Le Flipper
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Bois-Rond has an excellent yellow/orange circuit. It's a great place to learn more about the friction and the movement. Much climbing.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Fontainebleau - a part of it's history
Snakes in the forest
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 26, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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I want to live closer!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Aug 16, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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Adam Ondra in Font filmed by Alvi Pakarinen
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Among the problems he climbs is Dave Graham's "Satan i helvete" - Norwegian for "Satan in hell". The Norwegian word "hell" by the way, can be translated to the English word "luck".
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Aug 26, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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Fontainebleau on old postcards
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Aug 26, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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The central part of Fontainebleau city
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Parkour, naturally
[Click to View YouTube Video]
"This film is dedicated to our friends Joonas "Joenkkoe" Purastie & Mikko "Zeecos" Pirinen.
"The object of parkour is to get from one place to another in the most efficient way possible using only the human body and the objects in the environment"(wikipedia).
10 runs by Naïm L'1consolable & Florian Tissier, in Fontainebleau (France).Recorded in March 2011."
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 11, 2013 - 11:33am PT
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Thanks Marlow.
Looking forward to "Out of sight".
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 12, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Keep it going Marlow, there's some great stuff in here.
Steve
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Nov 13, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
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Thanks Marlow. Font is a great place and that's a nice video.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Dec 27, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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Thanks Marlow, great finish to the video.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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The Font Diary is sweeeeet!
Love that first egg problem!
I used to have to nudge this thread along but starting with Ambience Font 3/18/2012 it has become the Marlow Show!
Thanks for parking so many great videos here and creating a fantastic resource.
Have A Happy And Fabulous New Year!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jan 24, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
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Pierre Allain is part of the Fontainebleau climbing history. This is an article by Yves Ballu, in Mountain 62, 1978.
The article has been posted before on another thread by Blakey.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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that graviton sequence is like blackmail material.
nice determination. but if someone had that footage of me, i'd hunt it down and burn it.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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^^^ Yeah. Poor Amber - what price difficulty exacts . . .
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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If ever there was an argument to be made against heel hooks...
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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that graviton sequence ...
I like the creativity.
How often do you see inverting on face to snag a toe hook top out?
She is mock celebrating anyway, not claiming.
I learm more technique from my weaknesses than my strengths -
(if I had any strengths).
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks for that Pierre Allain article Marlow. Quality stuff, I love this thread. Great vids too.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Mar 17, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
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Who is the guy dressed in green? He never actually makes it up anything!!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 17, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
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Andy
I guess the problems were selected by one of the others... I wonder by whom? Lol...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 28, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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Posted by Randisi on Blakey's Pierre Allain thread and deserving a place on the Fontainebleau thread:
Alpinism and Competition
Chapter 11
Fontainebleau
What would the Parisian alpinist be without "Bleau"? Without the Sunday climbs on Bellifontaine sandstone? Very diminished, no doubt. Outside of Paris, beautiful limestone cliffs are found just about everywhere – and of impressive dimensions: the Dijonnais, the Calanques, the Ardennes, the Saussois… But us, we have our little rocks at Franchart, la Dame Jeanne, the Puiselet, Malesherbes, Cuvier. Cuvier, above all – that sacrosanct sanctuary, the very locus where free climbing is pushed to the maximum of current difficulty (let's not commit the future!).
Here the routes – which are a great many, maybe five hundred for Cuvier alone, with a third being truly difficult – aren't measured in tens or hundreds of meters. Our scrubbing pan rocks, as a certain Chamonix guide defined them, are only a few meters tall. It's this that appeals to us and makes for the excellence of this school of climbing. With no need for laying out ropes, no long waits to tackle this or that difficulty, we move quickly from one to the other – only fatigue stops us and compels us to slow down.
On these small rocks, quite close to the ground, we can let ourselves go, and – dare I say – outstrip the limits of our potential: the falls are of no consequence. If need be, we can try a given hard start twenty times in a row, learning by means of this, with exactitude, the friction limits between rock and rubber, learning to sense precise balancings, to trust incredibly small holds and in this way acquire qualities of a climber that are superior to those given by any other major school rock-climbing.
Not that it isn't useful from time to time for the Bleausard to go and put his knowledge to the test, to come into contact with long and sustained routes and get accustomed to the impressive verticality of the limestone cliffs.
I hold it to be true that at the present moment, in free climbing, our best climbers can equal, on their terrain, the best high limestone massif specialists and that the converse is not the case. To date, no climber who is a stranger to Bleau has succeeded and far from it in surmounting our greatest difficulties.
But, you'll tell me, the majority of the best alpinists don't frequent your "Bleau," and we've seen a number of Bleausards who were hardly brilliant in the mountains.
Of course, but it's only a question here of pure rock-climbing; the mountains are much more complex. Many qualities are needed besides those required by rock-climbing, and being a brilliant rock-climber serves little when morale or route-finding ability for example are lacking. Ice experience and technique also have to be acquired, and this is what the Bleausard lacks most often.
Of all the qualities the mountains demand of the alpinist, it's the weakest one that limits the alpinist's pretensions, in the image of the chain that's no stronger than its weakest link. But since there's nothing preventing chance from bestowing the necessary gifts from time to time upon Parisians, having perfected their talent on our sandstone rocks can only be a positive advantage.
And to tell the truth it isn't solely with an eye to mountain routes that we visit Bleau and climb there, it's above all because we make a game of it, one that in and of itself arouses our passion. It's good training? All the better, but even if that weren't the case, for the majority of us nothing would have changed. Every week we would find ourselves, just as assiduous, just as persistent, climbing a route that resisted our assault, and just as satisfied when it finally succumbed through our efforts and technique. Like the games played in stadiums, there is rivalry among climbers, a friendly one, but a rivalry none the less. If, leaving the classics, we venture so far as to try one of "Cuvier's last great problems," and after many a "go" one of us triumphs over this prestigious four or five meter first ascent, he is momentarily just as proud as he would be had he just succeeded on some new route up the flanks of some great alpine summit. Whereupon, his friends get worked up for the second, the third, etc.
That's of no interest, you say? Perhaps, but the same goes for the tenth of a second taken off the time for the hundred meters, or the extra kilo lifted overhead by the weightlifter – a car or a crane can do much better!
To this passion for climbing, we can add the pleasures of camping and the benefits of thirty hours of clean air, during which, forgetting the cares of the office, workshop or sales counter, each Saturday we find once again and with the same intense satisfaction – you might even say the same need – the special atmosphere of our rocks and its group of habitués. This is where we often work out our summer projects and dare to speak of certain bogeymen, considering such ventures natural, even if it means revising our judgment once in the field, in accordance with a formula I have long made my own – audacity in conception, prudence in execution.
Translation by Randolph Burks
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 27, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
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Awesome, that quoted piece from Aplinist above is so great.
Just found my Font guidebooks when going thru stuff today, stoked to add some stuff here- absolutely can't wait to be back in the dream forest someday.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Apr 28, 2014 - 03:23pm PT
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Just found my Font guidebooks when going thru stuff today, stoked to add some stuff here- absolutely can't wait to be back in the dream forest someday.
Here's a few more.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Apr 28, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
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Team America just got back. Unreal place.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Apr 28, 2014 - 04:28pm PT
|
Great additions to the magic forest thread...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jul 31, 2014 - 12:48pm PT
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Enty.
Thanks for posting the link. I've stolen a photo to stimulate the clicking.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jul 31, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
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Thanks Marlow. Love that dyno right at the end.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 31, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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That edit you posted from back in May is awesome Marlow, thanks!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
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Yet another nice one, Marlow!
These have to be the most celebrated boulder problems in the world.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Steve.
As you said in the title of the thread: The dream forest. I've dreamed there many times, though at lower grades... As soon as you know the area and are able to get around, bouldering there is really a dream...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 20, 2014 - 01:25pm PT
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Jus d'Orange, 7A+, Fontainebleau
[Click to View YouTube Video]
My Nemesis!! Finally!! Everyone has a problem they come back to every year, especially at a place with so many classics as Fontainebleau, and this was mine...
Nat Tanzer
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Nov 20, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
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^^^Nice short video. Roche aux Sabots is such a great place especially with the kids. There's a ring of boulders close to the car park with 40 routes in a circuit just for the kids to play on. The blue circuit was always pretty memorable for me. Thanks for posting.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 21, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
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Andy.
The blue Circuit at Roche aux Sabots is excellent. Close to 50 problems.
Another circuit I remember well, is the orange one at Bois Rond. This circle has a great collection of cool and variable moves. With close to 40 problems, it has all the climbing I need for a day. It's lower graded than the blue circle at Roche aux Sabots, but doesn't feel that way.
Here's Orange problem number 2. Balance and careful foot placement is needed.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
And here's blue number 33
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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^^^ Nice bouldering wall. She's got muscles on muscles ;)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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Font has to be the most celebrated and photographed bouldering area in the world. I'm not out mining for bouldering footage but thanks to Marlow and company this thread is packed!
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Le Diplodocus when mats were for wiping your feet on :D
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 18, 2015 - 01:26pm PT
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In 1996 Marc Le Menestral opened one of the hardest routes in the forest of Fontainebleau, known as L'alchimiste. Not long after Marc's ascent, the crux holds were mysteriously broken, and the route was deemed impossible. Now, nearly two decades later, Black Diamond Ambassador Nalle Hukkataival has reopened the problem.
Nalle Hukkataival Sends L'alchimiste
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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chacha
Mountain climber
Fontainebleau, FRANCE
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May 21, 2015 - 10:45am PT
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Hello
I could be the answer to all your bouldering needs ! I'm a climber and I live in a house in the paradise that is the forest of Fontainebleau. Inside this house, there are comfortable unoccupied bedrooms. Inside those bedrooms is a place for you to sleep!
I would like to help people who come to Fontainebleau and who need to find accommodation. That's why I have decided to organise my house as a guest house (bed and breakfast). I can accommodate from 1 to 7 people for a very reasonable price: 15 euros per night per person (breakfast included). As I like to cook, I can also prepare and cook some French (or not French) meals (10 euros for a main course, 13 euros for a main course and a dessert).
The house is located in Chailly-en-Bière, which is very close to Bas-Cuvier (3 kilometres), Apremont (4 kilometres), Franchard, Rocher Canon...
I like to speak English despite my English not being perfect.
What's more, I have the local knowledge – restaurants, places to visit, where to get the things you need and so on and so forth.
Check out the pictures of the house on : http://www.chailly.over-blog.com
Drop me an email if you need more informations : dupuis.aline@hotmail.fr
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 26, 2015 - 10:46am PT
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Gorges de Franchard
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Fon (nasal 'o', a bit like in Forest)
Ten (short e, like in best)
Blo (long o, as in go)
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
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Dec 21, 2015 - 04:12am PT
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Old Font guidebook/map - January 1947 - area: La Dame Jeanne
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2016 - 02:33pm PT
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Winter Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2017 - 10:50am PT
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Bump for the storied pebbles...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
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Nov 24, 2017 - 03:02pm PT
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A 1939 magazine I found, covering training in Fontainebleau and competition for a Matterhorn route.
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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Dec 14, 2017 - 08:29pm PT
|
Marlow,
Were there any good photos or illustrations from the inside of that magazine?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
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Dec 15, 2017 - 09:09am PT
|
Thanks for asking, Jim. I didn't find what I expected, but what I found was not less cool: A female boulderer (the girl from the cover) in Font 1939, climbing in nailed boots and another pair of shoes I am not able to see clearly.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
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Jan 30, 2018 - 11:56am PT
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"Fontainebleau. 100 ans d'escalade" by Gilles Modica and Jacky Godoffe on Les Editions Mont-Blanc.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
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Jun 20, 2018 - 07:45am PT
|
Fontainebleau June 2018
|
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
|
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Jun 21, 2018 - 12:13pm PT
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For a climber starting climbing in Fontainebleau some circles that can be recommended are (easiest circle first, then gradually harder circles):
 Franchard, area Hautes Plaines, Circuit Jaune PD- (Yellow circle, not much difficult minus) no, 2 2017. More than 30 problems, grade 2a-3c, not exposed. The circle was new in 2017 and is not shown in the guidebook, but is easy to find.
Trois Pigonons, area Bois-Rond, Circuit Orange AD- (Orange circle, a little difficult minus). 37 problems, grade 2c-4a, not exposed. Found in the guidebook.
Autour de Noisy-sur-Ecole, area 91.1, Circuit Orange Nord AD+ (Orange circle North, a little difficult plus). 47 problems, grade 3a-4b, some high boulders. Found in the guidebook.
Franchard, area Isatis, Circuit Bleu D- (Blue circle, difficult minus). 50 problems, grade 3a-5a, some high boulders. Found in the guidebook.
Autour de Noisy-sur-Ecole, La Roche aux Sabots, Circuit Bleu D (Blue circle, difficult). 46 problems, grade 3c-5c, some high boulders. Found in the guidebook.
Apremont, Gorges d'Apremont. Circuit Baltique Bleu D+ (Baltic blue circle, difficult plus). 39 problems, grade 3c-6a, many high boulders. Found in the guidebook.
Progression from easier to harder circles:
Yellow circles
PD- (Not much difficult minus)
PD
PD+
Orange circles
AD- (A little difficult minus)
AD
AD+
Blue circles
D- (Difficult minus)
D
D+
Red circles
TD- (Very difficult minus)
TD
TD+
Black circles
ED- (Extremely difficult minus)
ED
ED+
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Fontainebleau - Ascension de Dame-Jeanne - la Voie d'Amour - 1920s
Fontainebleau early 1900s
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Sep 21, 2018 - 10:40am PT
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Bleausard
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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The Fontainebleau forest 1861: The first nature preserve in history.
Once the domain and hunting ground of kings, the Forest of Fontainebleau, some thirty-five miles southeast of Paris, is where French landscape painting and photography took root. Rough and unspoiled, the forest was exalted as an example of nature in its purest state. Its distinctive terrain — verdant woods, magnificent old-growth trees, imposing rock formations, and stark plateaus — offered a wealth of motifs that attracted painters and photographers alike. The forest was such a point of national pride that a portion of it was set aside in 1861 as the first nature preserve in history.
Like Italy before it, Fontainebleau became an obligatory destination for any serious landscape artist. During the 1820s and 1830s, painters such as Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot and Théodore Rousseau helped to transform the nearby villages of Barbizon and Chailly into informal artists’ colonies and the forest into an open-air studio. Through their close observation of the native countryside, these artists sparked a movement known as the Barbizon School that introduced a new sense of naturalism into landscape painting and challenged the French Royal Academy’s preference for idealized pastoral visions of nature. In the 1860s a new generation of artists that included Claude Monet, Alfred Sisley, and Auguste Renoir discovered Fontainebleau, laying the foundations for the light-filled depictions that would bring them fame as impressionists.
Augustin Enfantin, An Artist Painting in the Forest of Fontainebleau, c. 1825. Notice the climber on the top og the stone...
The stones of Enfantin: http://foret-fontainebleau.teria.fr/SiteFBleau/Fiches/HierAujTableaux/P70RocherdEnfantin.htm
In the Forest of Fontainebleau - Painters and Photographers from Corot to Monet: https://www.nga.gov/features/slideshows/in-the-forest-of-fontainebleau.html
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mikegrai
climber
ON
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I'm making my first visit to Fontainebleau starting next Friday. I will have 5 days, and will be based out of Avon. Anyone there looking for an extra pad and spotter? I am going to start off on easy circuits to get a feel for the experience, expect to top out around 5a or 5b, but happy to spot anyone doing harder problems.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 30, 2018 - 01:20pm PT
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1898 Fontainebleau map: And yes, stones/areas are there...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2019 - 09:35am PT
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Such a great thread thanks to Marlow!
The last two posts on the previous page are exquisite and well over a century apart. Fantastic!
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Some more pictures of this great place. Just checked and it's 10 years since I last climbed there.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Great photos, Andy. I remember the two stones and problems.
Here's some old stuff: CLUB ALPIN FRANÇAIS in the Fontainebleau forest in 1902
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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May 28, 2019 - 03:52pm PT
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A last (probably) bump for this Fontainebleau thread. Thanks Steve Grossman and Marlow for your many informative posts.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 29, 2019 - 12:43pm PT
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Ditto Andy. I have copied much of this thread. Thanks for all the contributions. Here's a video showing the forest as it is.
Les plus beaux 6A de Bleau, le retour: [Click to View YouTube Video]
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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May 31, 2019 - 12:04pm PT
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Hey Marlow if you’re on FB I’m over on the Supertaco Refugees page. If not then my email is blandboy61@gmail.com. Perhaps we’ll hook up in the magic forest one day.
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