Discussion Topic |
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
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My friend Erik and I decided to give WDD a go at the end of September, so, I'm a bit late with posting a TR. Better late than never! Perfect weather + fun wall partner = good times on this steep wall. The hammer remained in the piggy, and overall, we thought it was a quality route worth doing---such spectacular position! Ok, good, now here are the photos:
Here we are ready to go.
There she is! A haulbag and other stuff was chlling on Roulette with no climber....???
Yes, pigs fly.
Made it up to Ahwanee Ledge and relaxed.
I decided to fix P5 with the remaining daylight.
Higher on P5.
P5 fixed, time for some beers.
Ohh look, what do you know, another very steep pitch, P7. We are heading for the obvious roof splitter above.
A soloist on the WF makes Ahwanee Ledge....kind of looks lonely.
Colorful rock to the right of the WF route.
Erik "on belay".
Erik was psyched to just barely makes the shade. It's a good thing his helmet is protecting something.....
Self portrait.
I thought the entire route is worth climbing for this 15' section. It is unreal!
Erik dodges the sun once again!
Halfway out....it feels weird doing multiple moves without ever touching the rock with your body. The best part is that the cleaner gets the same experience!
Looking back in.
This is what it looks like from the lip of the roof. You couldn't wipe the smile off my face if you tried. Ok, so mabey I was a little nervous :).
Erik cleaning the last pitch.
Peek-a-boo!
Victory!
Thanks for viewing.....1 more brewing....will post soon.
Peace,
Brian S.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Nov 23, 2008 - 07:54pm PT
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Super, Man. Good frickin' pics....That roof is stellar, huh?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nov 23, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
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Very cool shots, thanks for stopping and taking those roof shots. Cool perspective.
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hungry man
Trad climber
around
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Nov 23, 2008 - 08:04pm PT
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Kool! thanks for posting. that's a neat view of ahwahnee with the lone climber.
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Nov 23, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
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Nice photos dude! I really like those shots over towards the orange rock on the WF. When I climbed it, at the end of August, I got the stellar roof pitch, but it was dark already so I got no pics! When I clipped that fixed sawed-off at the corner it fell out from the weight of my daisy and aider! Had to re-seat that sucker...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 23, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
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hey thre briguy... say, GREAT photos.... nice crisp stuff and great angles...
will be enjoying to see more, when you put it up...thanks for the neat share...
say---as i dont know anything about these places... perhaps someone can just add a small note about this rock... thanks guys...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 23, 2008 - 10:37pm PT
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Classic TR, fun photos, you guys will never forget it. Thanks tons.
ph.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Nov 23, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
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NeeBee, this is the Leaning Tower, on the South side of the Valley, near Bridalveil Falls.
It's VERY steep..............
That 'colorful' shot looks like 'Heading For Oblivion'.
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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Really nice photos and angles. Looks like you had fun!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:16am PT
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SICK!
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:17am PT
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Great photos. Great captions. I like the captions above the photos like that, makes it much easier to read and follow.
Thanks for sharing.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:21am PT
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What a Great TR and pics for us to enjoy. Thanks guys! Usually takes abit of thought, planning and patience to produce the roof shots and following comments....really your whole climb. Sometimes it's just DL but rarely. For those of us that may never be able to pull off your experience ....Thanks....really. Lynne
EDIT: Ever so very rarely I kinda wished I was a guy BITD...oh Gezzz, only the WBITD peeeps will understand, please don't slay me on this one. Some in the time machine will know what I'm saying. lrl
To qualify the statement, it is not in a sexual content....way BITD gals just weren't allowed the freedom to .....big surf, bike all over the country, climb et al. A few broke loose, but many did not. Lots of social pressure WBITD/ no need to comment, just a reflection. Peace and Joy always and almost no regrets.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:22am PT
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One of my all time favorite routes. Great pics guys. When I did it there were no cams and that expando pitch scared the sh^t out of me.
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Nov 24, 2008 - 01:59am PT
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That route was my first real wall. A beautiful climb. P5 is no gimme, and it looks like you skipped clipping the new bolts for the free variation. Any problems with the pitch? I remember the pro is mighty thin. How about the big, loose block on...mybe P7?? Can't remember -- but it was a very tall, in a corner, and looked like it was part of the dihedral until it MOVED. I followed on that last pitch, and it was indeed memorable. Thanks for the photos and trip report. Hell of a way to spend a couple of days.
Ed
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 24, 2008 - 02:13am PT
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how are the anchors on that last haul?
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Nov 24, 2008 - 09:54am PT
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Great route! and great shots - that last pitch is incredible and the pullover after clearing the roof to that perfectly flat ledge (good anchors) makes the day.
Here is a shot looking back at sunset - I led the roof then lowered back down (you can see the shadow).
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 24, 2008 - 10:07am PT
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Awesome!!!!!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 24, 2008 - 10:52am PT
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Sweet! That roof looks great.
Zander
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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very nice
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:44pm PT
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Thanks for the TR! that roof looks wild
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 24, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
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Very nice, thanks!
nice addition Kevin.
I've never done this route (It hadn't gone up yet (I think) when we did WLFT). The name always sounded sort of Risque. Like the sordid side of that Sticky Fingers vinyl jacket.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 24, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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Well done fellas! I've only done the WFLT, but this route looks like it was well worth the trip.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 24, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
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Best photos I've ever seen of that route! It's still on my hit list.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Nov 24, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
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I showed your TR to people in the bar last night (mostly non-climbers); it was met with unanimous approval.
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Alpine Raven
Mountain climber
Eugene, OR
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Nov 24, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
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BriGuy,
Is your partner Erik Kinsey? He and I did West Crack a few summers ago. I know his Dad real well and that was how I partnered up with Erik. He was working at the T-Meadows store that summer, '06 I think. He's a really good, solid climber. We had fun. It was nice of him to climb with an oldster. We wanted to get on Fairview, but the line was too long. We had to race another group to get first on West Crack. Nothing like running flat out carrying gear at altitude and laughing all the way. I thought I was going to puke.
Great photos BTW. Makes my sphincter pucker just looking at those roof shots!
Cheers,
David
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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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Nov 24, 2008 - 05:24pm PT
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Excellent report. Brings back great memories of days, and friends (tear here), gone by.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 24, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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Very sweet report.
I can't believe I haven't done the route yet.
Now I'm dying to the do route since the route isn't as likely to cause that dying.
PEace
Karl
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Nov 24, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
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nice TR Brian! I loved that route, so steep. Glad you posted your photos since I forgot my camera when I soloed it last spring.
Ps. I haven't forgotton to get you the ZM pics, sorry man!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 24, 2008 - 09:50pm PT
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Really great photos, from this TR. Looking out that roof and the "Looking Back" shots...
Chills!
That is awesome, guy's, great job and proud ascent.
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
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Thanks for all the feedback----much appreciated!
All the anchors seemed legit to my memory. I remember a couple of big, loose features on the route----just got to be a little more careful around those, it's good, keeps it exciting!
Alpine Raven, yes, it is Erik K. in the photos. Nice to hear you got to climb with him. He's one of the best climbing partners I've had and tons of fun to be around, we've done several walls together. I'm pretty sure he's on a 9ish month road trip....nice.
Just about finished going through some more photos. This one is not in the valley.
B
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 24, 2008 - 11:35pm PT
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hey there captain... or skully.. say, nice to hear from you---say, thanks so much for the info...
man, that ROOF pic that was just posted a bit after your sharing this info, sure is a great shot---and "precarious looking stuff"... WHEWWWWWW... you guys sure know how to "have adventures"...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 26, 2008 - 02:04am PT
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Emailed some friends to check this out only to find the pics are all gone. When one deletes pics from photo bucket to make more space does this sometimes delete the pics posted on ST ?
My friends are very bummed .... could you repost the pics cause they were awesome. Thanks, Lynne
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 26, 2008 - 02:15am PT
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Lets do it, Karl.
I have some rust to grind off, as far as bigwall/aid is concerned, but i'd be close to getiing back into it, by pitch 10.
-you know, we'd have a laugh or two!
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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Had to organize some photos. Relisted.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Where are YOU from?
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Nov 28, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
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Super TR, BriGuy.......
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
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Bump for climbing stuff. Gobble.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Nov 30, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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Looks like a fun one.
Great TR.
Prod.
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Buju
Trad climber
A Sandbar
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Apr 26, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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did this one yesterday....bump for a damn good climb
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Evel
Trad climber
Rocky mountains
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Apr 26, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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Number 1 on my new 'to-do' list! The roof looks bitchen!
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mucci
Trad climber
sf ca
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Apr 26, 2009 - 08:12pm PT
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Very nice Gentlemen! No B.S. just gettin er done. Nice belay pics, he looked way too comfortable!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 26, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
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ultra-classic!!11!!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 26, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
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Daydream is right!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 14, 2014 - 12:08am PT
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Bummmmmmp
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 14, 2014 - 09:05am PT
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BriGuy is one of the best wall partners I've roped up with. Wonder what he's up to these days!?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 14, 2014 - 09:28am PT
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Wow! Amazing pictures.
Such a fantastic chunk of stone.
My friend Kieran Brownie climbed WDD as his very first route in the valley in a Day and it was his first time climbing a grade V route and he didnt even bring a hammer. Proud. Bold. Reckless.
Thanks for the great share.
EDIT
Bruce: The route was fairly clean last may, not too much fixed gear, the "crux" pitch had a few fixed heads and a few bolts within arms reach to the left. Other than that if was fairly mank-less.
There was no piton in the roof like in Bri guys picture, and pulling the lip out of the roof would have been a nice spot for fixed tat but there wasn't any..
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Jun 14, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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Good job lads........Nice pics too.....Thanx for sharing your adventure.
Stevo
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