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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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not to interrupt the political discussions, but I am looking for beta on The Open Book (5.9) -- pictures, suggestions etc. This would be a tough lead for me but I am entertaining the idea of trying it if i am not convinced otherwise :)
Are there any points from which to retreat?
How is the gear?
thanks,
Steve
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esoteric1
Trad climber
san dieco, ca
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:36am PT
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you can retreat up at any point in the climb.
and the gear is all there, totaly solid as long as you bring something bigger than a number 3... as it made it kinda sketchy when I did it.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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I'm guessing you mean by leaving gear...
I was wondering about rap anchors or features that could readily be slung and rapped from.
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esoteric1
Trad climber
san dieco, ca
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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bail up! youve got it, i know you can rap the route but i cant remember if you need 2 ropes or not.
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:44am PT
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Hey Chop;
The route is pretty straight forward lay backing & jamming. Solid 5.9 The Pro is good. Standard rack.
A must do route for any visitor.
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tooth
Mountain climber
B.C.
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:50am PT
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I felt like the crux was in the first 10 feet. Darren D. managed to jam the second pitch instead of lying it back, left one of my #4 metolius cams there, and the next spring, my other buddy bootied someone else's #4 out of the same crack! Just do it, you will love the thing!
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 01:03am PT
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awesome. thanks for the encouragement. i'm quite sure I can send it, i am mostly concerned with there being sufficient gear. I have a few wide pieces and some hexes so hopefully i can sew it up.
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:20am PT
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You'll pump it out no problem. Wish I was there. But I'm stuck in Wyoming till the spring.
Cheers, Dog
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apogee
climber
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:54am PT
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P2 5.8 liebacking placing blind hexes- now that's adventure!
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 01:58am PT
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blind hexes are scary (read: character building)
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:05am PT
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Well, I have no idea if you can climb this or not but here are some pics to help build up the stoke! I found it to be stout 5.9 in a couple sections but very safe.
The money, Open Book, 5.9...
The first ten feet are certainly heads up! Not too hard (I wouldn't call it the crux) but a very interesting start none the less. The first ten feet...
This is still the first pitch, after the awkward start and the big flake right above my partner is called the Elephants Ear. After we climbed the Open Book we met a older man in the parking lot who said that back when he climbed with Yvon (name dropper he was!) they would climb the whole first pitch as a lieback up to the top of the Ear. He said it made it easier.
Here is the money on the second pitch. Perfect hands...
Those are the good pictures. Great climb overall, hope you send it proud!
-n
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:10am PT
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The initial overhang is the crux as far as I'm concerned. I've led it over thirty times because I love The Mechanics. The push up to the Elephant's Ear is a bit of a strain but nothing to worry about. Give yourself a bit of a rest before you do the last ten or twelve feet to the cave on the second pitch; it steepens up. Great route and good pro all the way.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 03:13am PT
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wow thank you so much. i have felt pretty stagnant on 7s and 8s but I have been cautious about going harder due to being relatively new to placing gear. I have been told my gear is pretty solid so I figure its time to kick it up a notch- and this is a pretty awesome climb. If i get there and feel a gut check, there's no shame in training till its the right time.
Many thanks for the beta though. Ill post a TR down the line, one way or the other.
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Russ S.
climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:54am PT
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Wow, OB - my first 5.9, back in 1978. It's a classic, go for it!
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 04:12am PT
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haha i wasnt even alive then!
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:45am PT
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(Pitty) It was a great adventure. You could dirt bag real cheap. I once camped on top of Suicide most of the summer. If you did that now you would end up in jail. Hell we even had a bit of stash growing in the valley. Times were good.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 06:22am PT
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Liebacking that second pitch isn't a very good idea, you'd be better off playing the wide jamming game.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 21, 2008 - 10:13am PT
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Fun climb! My first 5.9 lead. I don't recall much laybacking- never layback when you can jam.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Oct 21, 2008 - 10:57am PT
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If you get past the overhanging boulder problem start you will be good to go. That is one fine route you are about to embark on.
Bring 2 #4's, you will be happy you did.
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Oct 21, 2008 - 11:10am PT
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when you get to the flake straddle the thing it's all fair game haha
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 21, 2008 - 11:58am PT
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Good beta above.. I tend to agree with Woody about the start being cruxy, but if you climb at the Gunks, it probably won't seem too bad. Getting to the Elephant's Ear is the widely accepted crux, good gear and a couple moves.
The bottom part of the 2nd pitch is far easier to layback, with good feet (horizontal dike like features) every once and a while to allow you to pull in and place gear (wider pieces needed - 2 - 4 inches). When you get near the last 15-20 feet the crack steepens and jamming it is easiest/best. There is a somewhat awkward belay under the roof atop the second pitch.
The third pitch can be tricky and should not be under-estimated (5.8; underclinging to lower angled cracks and slabby type moves).
If you have never climbed at Tahquitz before, you might want to check you this thread which gives great beta on the Friction Route Descent: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=696379
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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One more bit of advice: be damned sure you have good pro in for the initial overhang. On the wall to the right of the OH is a high crack that takes excellent pro and will keep you off the deck if you blow it. I'm not tall enough to reach it so I always like someone around six feet plus. Unfortunately, that usually isn't the case; at which point, you'll find spots here and there to get a couple of pieces in, usually stoppers.
The OV is a bit tricky the first time you do it since you can get your hands reversed when going for the key hold that allows you to pull over and stand up. I usually forget exactly the precise placement of my hands at the start which sometimes makes the OV a little more exciting than necessary. I advise pulling up until you see the upper hold, then you can plan your moves.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
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A couple of more items.
To reiterate what Woody said, protect the start and anchor the belayer. If one comes off the start it's a short fall but high on fall factor. A tumble down the gulley would be dire!
There's also a horn you can sling to protect the moves from the opening bolder move to the main crack.
It's also better to move out of the cave and belay shortly above on a comfortable stance with medium size gear at the end of the second pitch.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:50pm PT
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I'm a little surprised by all the opinions that the lower section is the crux. Since the Open Book was the first 5.9 climbed in America and the Mechanic Route, which was climbed way earlier, uses the same start but is only rated 5.8.
Sure it's a little bouldery and sometimes ratings don't take that into account, however, I don't think it's anywhere nearly as hard as the thin crack getting up to the Ear. Pro is a little wierd, but you can sling a horn as someone suggested.
Also, I don't think the 2nd pitch is to be underestimated. If you lieback the whole thing (like I have), it's pumpy. You can jam it but it gets wide (4"). It's not hand size as someone suggested, except for maybe a short section off the belay. A 3" crack is perfect fist jam size for me, so liebacking just seemed easier. Do bring a couple of 4" pieces.
I thought the 3rd pitch was relatively easy compared to the first two.
The lesson in all of this: be careful when you ask beta for such a popular climb. It's kind of like the fable about blind people each giving a description of an elephant based on the part they're feeling. You're going to get a lot of divergent opinions.
Just go and do it!
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
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I think it's safe to say that very few climbers have led that overhang as many times as I have. Ergo, be careful and follow my advice.
Addendum: it's silly to rate "The Mechanics" at 5.8 nowdays. If the OH is 5.9, and it is in my opinion, the MR is 5.9. Yeah, I know....
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
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Ignoring the numbers, Fat Dad, When I climbed the Open Book,
I thought the crux was on the first pitch.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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Wendell, shame...shame. No, don't anchor the belayer; that's wussy. Climbing should be about adventure.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:40pm PT
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Yeah!
Sounds like a pair had one of those adventures this weekend over by Angels Fright.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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yeah I read about that...it seems there's been a rash of accidents in the climbing world this past few weeks. I guess I'll just have to be extra careful.
Woody, thanks for the heads up on the start. I am 6'3 so hopefully i can sew it up right off the ground. I have big hexes and a few big cams. I rarely get to use the bigger hexes and I always KNEW that I would need them someday.
I look forward to weighing in on what part of the route felt like the crux.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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"Ignoring the numbers, Fat Dad, When I climbed the Open Book,
I thought the crux was on the first pitch."
No argument here. I just meant it was the thin crack above the OH, not the OH.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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Okay, now for the Mummy Crack. There's a hidden crack inside and on the left. Use it to lie back with your left foot on the left face. Lots of places for pro. DON"T ever get sucked to the right of the Mummy. If you do, cry for "Mummy".
Okay, what's next? I know, "Bastard Variation of the Illegitimate". It has a challenging jam. If you do it like I did--unable to protect it--you will remember it on your deathbed.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 04:13pm PT
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i have a feeling the runout slab might be more challenging than the technical crux for me. But if its that high up, necessity makes you do it.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:15pm PT
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I guess I was confused: OH, OB, OV, OW...
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
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It used to thought that the Open Book was the first true 5.9 in the country (Royal Robbins free ascent in '54???). Surely 5.9 had been done somewhere before the OB free (original ascents were on aid via wooden planks bashed into the crack), but this one is an all time historical classic for sure.
JL
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kev
climber
CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:13pm PT
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Did it with drc a few years ago. Super fun. drc stemmed P2 and said it was work - I just got my arm in the thing. Super fun!
kev
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
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FA was 1952. While Open Book has long been credited as the first 5.9 in the US, if I recall correctly there may be some east coast routes that are now concensus 5.9s and were done before that. A classic route and line no matter what.
Robbin's FFA was also significant because it started a free climbing trend that bucked the somewhat conservative accepted standards of the time.
Mechanics Route (solid 5.8) was first done in 1937 in tennis shoes and hemp rope and is run out to boot (starts as per Open Book). A bold and difficult adventure considering modern rope technique was only introduced in the US in the mid 30s.
There used to be one of those wooden wedges in the second pitch of Human Fright into recent times. Small hole drilled in wide end with some bunk hemp rope. Wide pins wouldn't make an appearance until after 1958 (stoveleg pins being probably the first).
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal Hell
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
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Ahhh..the slab traverse!!! years ago, the first time climbing the Open Book, my solid partner got totally whigged out on that upper slab. He couldn't do it and essentially we were stuck until this last party came up and we asked if they would belay my partner up. Since it was their first time at Tahquitz they needed beta on the friction descent, so helped each other out. By the time we got up the Open Book it was dark, so too sketchy to down climb the descent, however, between our two ropes we just rapped down.
So, if you are a solid crack climber but dislike friction slabs beware of that last pitch!!!
There you go Woody, this was "one" of those Tahquitz climbs ending in the dark !!!!
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:51pm PT
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This is the best pic I could find of the run-out slab at the top. You start in the chimney to the left of my partner and then wriggle out onto the face right above my partners head. You are aiming for the OW/squeeze further above my partners head. The slab is called 5.6 but if you don't have any big cams (#4.5+ if I remember correctly) then I think you have almost no gear from the belay until you get to the squeeze...
SQUEEEEEEEEEEZE....
And here is the final OW/squeeze...
so much fun!
-n
edit... just for fun, here is a pic of me in the cave belay that the topo marks as optional. This belay SUCKS.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 21, 2008 - 05:51pm PT
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I've only experienced Tahquitz in the dark once back in the sixties. We did The West Lark starting around nine pm holding small flashlights in our mouths...lots of drool. Oh! As I was leading the last pitch, I was hit by my first kidney stone. A night to remember.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Oct 21, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
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You don't need anything bigger than a #10 Hex.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Oct 21, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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I soloed up and down the first pitch.
It was cake.
]uan
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 21, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
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Yo Largo - wasn't it FFA in '52?
It's been a long time since I did it, but I was barely a 5.9 leader at the time I recall getting on it because it was just screaming to be climbed and I really wanted it bad. It's funny that even years later, the one part I recall is nearly cratering just getting up to the start of the corner. The rest I recall as being a lot of fun.
From below:
From above (shot from Traitor Horn):
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 06:34pm PT
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I had it in my mind, when me gonadas were larger, that the first two could be
combined in 60m with a maybe 4 extra large cams.
Never did it. But, I thought it an extra value approach.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 21, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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I've been seeing lots of talk about big pro. I did the climb a couple of years ago with a #3 camalot as my biggest piece and don't recall feeling run out. Of course I'm of an age where I qualify for the 30 minute onsight.
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Manjusri
climber
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Oct 22, 2008 - 02:50am PT
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I did it as a n00b with a 3 and 3.5 and felt perfectly safe. I add a 4 now and still want another big piece. I think the start is 5.8 but sewed it up anyway: pink tricam, #2 BD, double runner.
I thought the belay under the roof was kind of cool. The 3rd pitch slab is easier if you get out on it earlier and don't really get into the chimney like that pic. No pro though, and it kind of sucks in the dark. Pitch 2 is the crux for me and takes longer than expected, probably because I wind up grunting it out in the offwidth sections instead of liebacking like I plan.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 22, 2008 - 01:32pm PT
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I've never gotten in the upper crack. Just walk up the face with a hand against the wall for a little balance.
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BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
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Oct 22, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Wow, Manjusri, thats a great shot of Open Book, So I guess thats Traitor Horn sticking out left of the roof?
Anyone know if there is a route that goes left under the big roof block and goes up Traitor Horn?
I thought the bouldery start was the hardest part also. The rest was mostly just awsome crack climbing in a slabby corner. What more could you want!
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Oct 22, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
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Mike.- I am not sure the chimney is the way to go, that is just how we did it. It is run-out either way...
-n
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
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Largo raises an interesting thought about 5.9s done a long while ago in the East. But unless there's a Wiessner route somewhere that I can't think of (Alan Rubin please weigh in!), the FFA of Open Book in either 1952 or 54 would still be the first 5.9 in the country. A few years later, John Turner led two 5.9s on Cathedral Ledge (the original version of Recompense, which was great from day one and became only more of a must-do classic with addition of the direct corner finish; and Repentence, with one point of aid BEFORE the very solid 5.9+ wide/offwidth). The thought of doing this crack, full of dirt, moss, algae, probably with zero gear after the aid pin, and probably in hiking or mountain boots, is mind-boggling in the extreme. Even in 1970, the second ascent still used the point of aid!!
Of course, there are plenty of 9s, 10s, and maybe even 11s (Dresden??) from way earlier than the 50s in Europe, also accomplished with zero or totally crap protection and shoes, but these are the earliest in N. America that I know of. You have to marvel at the spirit of those early climbers, getting after it with grim prospects if anyone fell.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
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The American Oliver Perry Smith was putting up 5.9s in Dresden in 1910. 1910!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
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Nov 13, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
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I went to climb OB with Derek Starr (aka Roy Naas) several years back. He couldn't get the start and in his inimitable style, started doing a toned down version his patented Turret's Syndrome stream of consciousness freak out. I gave it a brief go, but it was on the edge of my leading skills at the time, so we backed off and went over and climbed Finger Trip. That helped mellow Derek out again. But, of course there was always the car ride back home to change all that....
This was in December or January of a year without any snow at that point. Cold, beautiful and had the place to ourselves.
One of these days I'll go back and climb the OB. Sounds like a blast!
Fletch
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Nov 13, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
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I remember, BITD, soloing this with (I think) Rick Accomazzo, Tobin Sorensen, Richard Harrison and I, all a body length apart, mostly lybacking up the thing, ever grateful that nobody pinged and took out everyone below.
Impressive as the OB is (FFA in '52), the Mechanic's Route, pretty runout, almost vert 5.8, put up in hiking boots, in, what, 1938 - now that's truly amazing.
JL
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 13, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
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I believe it was tennis shoes.
Either way, well ahead of its time. particularly when you consider that it was done with only soft iron. Not even angle pitons.
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Llama
Big Wall climber
The bubble that is Irvine, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Beta...
Start at the bottom... go up
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 13, 2008 - 08:16pm PT
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Delayed answer to BKW's question: yes and no. That is the True
Horn on the climb Traitor Horn. The Traitor Horn itself is out
of sight to the left.
Maybe this doesn't make sense, I've never looked at a topo of
the climb.
At any rate, early on the climb Traitor Horn you see a horn and
climb toward it, but it sort of gets smaller as you approach it,
then when you get to it you get your first view of the True
Horn (the one in the picture)
It's one of the classic double-pun Tahquitz names
(from the book or movie Trader Horn)
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 13, 2008 - 09:22pm PT
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Wait a second Largo!
Four of you soloed the OB at one time?
Christ, now I have to chalk up or my mouse will slip out of my hand. I knew I would have to get into this chalk thing sooner or later.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 15, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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Guido,
Last time I did the OB was with Sibylle around 1976 and she accused me of holding onto some pro near the Ear. I was really pissed because I didn't, but she kept on it. Women! It was two days later that she quit harping on it.
Of course, we I didn't use chalk then and, as you know, some of us never have.
With regard to the awkward start, Mark Powell led that pitch the first time I did it. He had it wired and showed me in great detail how to get up it with ease. It was never a problem after that.
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