Discussion Topic |
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 13, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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Everything started out according to plan. The first 2 pitches were physical but reasonable.
Great views
and photo ops.
Then we let 2 partys pass. They were both obviously much faster. In fact one of them was simulclimbing. The party ahead of us however pretended not to speak English with the resulting cluster wasting a good hour or so.
Meanwhile, the weather got colder and windier as we continued through what I thought was the crux of climb.
Is this around where the Supertopo cover shot was taken. In any case I wasn't about to take my shirt off.
And then...
Luckily this didn't last too long and we topped out just as it was getting dark. Jesse is still smiling.
The East Ledges are where?
At this point we stopped taking pictures. 5 hours later we were back at the car, but only because two wall guys showed us the way. Thanks Ryan and Rob.
Lessons Learned.
1. Check the damn forcast. Don't assume that it will be nice this weekend because it snowed last weekend.
2. Be a jerk and don't let people pass. Alternatively, learn to climb faster.
3. 5.7 feels like 5.10 when you cant feel your hands or feet, and much harder when there's fresh snow on the holds.
4. Nothing is open for food in the Valley after 11pm, but if you beg the nice manager at the Mountain Room might kick down some leftovers. Thanks Janet.
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salad
climber
Escondido
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Oct 13, 2008 - 07:00pm PT
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rad!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Oct 13, 2008 - 07:07pm PT
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Perfect, I've been jonesing for a good TR for the last half hour - thanks.
I thought that was the crux too.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 13, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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full alpine value
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 13, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
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heheee, nice job!!!!! Good pics too.
At least you guys dressed warm...prepared.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:02pm PT
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Whooo Hooo. Full value for money on that one.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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Now that's adventure. Start with warmth, climb through cold and finish in darkness with a barely full stomach. Nice TR.
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Dolomite
climber
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
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Yep, you fellas got your money's worth all right. That's what it's all about. Thanks for posting.
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
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good job, burley sheeite.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
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I love that picture of the snow sticking to the cam.
That last pitch with the "easy" slab, the one with no pro, must have been interesting.
You guys are all right!
Zander
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
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I was thinking exactly of that run-out face section with freshly fallen snow... yikes!
Well chosen pics and sparse text to cover what must have been a Homerian epic. Nice.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Oct 13, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
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Wow! Thanks for the great vicarious adventure. Glad you are both alive and smiling!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 13, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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Wow, good job guys.
It was even chilly (relatively speaking) in the south bay area .. numb fingers and toes on the waterfall cliff at CRSP yesterday morning :)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 13, 2008 - 11:44pm PT
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great report and cool (too cool) photos!
Peace
Karl
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Bertrand
Trad climber
SF
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Oct 14, 2008 - 01:52am PT
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Nice report Victor! So many positive responses, and none calling us d-bags for getting caught in the weather. V, props need to go to the old pirate who gave us descent beta from his portaledge, hanging from a tree at the top. dude was on his 14th day. foraging other people's jettisoned food. classic.
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shutupandclimb
climber
So. Cal..............d00d
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Oct 14, 2008 - 02:29am PT
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Are you guys Brits? You seem to have a knack for understatement?
Nice TR...........very cool
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 14, 2008 - 09:08am PT
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Nice job, guys.
Glad you got out of there safely.
Well done.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Oct 14, 2008 - 10:19am PT
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What a bunch of d-bags, ever think to check the weather report??? Ha Ha!
WAY TO STICK IT OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THANKS FOR THE TR!
Jeff
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 14, 2008 - 11:09am PT
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"Are you guys Brits?"
Well, I know DRC is Russian, so yeah he pretty much kicks ass.
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Oct 14, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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5 hour descent? yikes. nice climb and tr!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 14, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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Great TR!
wow
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Binks
Social climber
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Oct 14, 2008 - 01:30pm PT
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Cool (hehe).
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Oct 14, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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Victor is the man, carrying my double ledge down and getting it out of the bag where the f^$*#n thing hung up on every m-f^&*n tree all the gd#&*(mway down. We would have been bivied with David the pirate for sure. Thanks guys!
Rob
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Oct 14, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
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Thanks for the TR. Nice pictures (love the snowy cam).
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Jim E
climber
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Oct 15, 2008 - 11:46am PT
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it is good to bump
Good TR
Thanks!
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Jana
Sport climber
Martin
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Oct 15, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
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An amazing adventure... So are u bored w/thunderstorms now? Is snow more fun? Heh... Glad u guys are ok! Stay safe and thanks for sharing...
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
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Thanks Karl,
your writing is way more eloquent than mine.
I too thought that the crux felt a little stiff for 10b(no bolt or pins there now) but it was VERY short.
V.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Oct 15, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
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And then...
omg the snow!
Great TR.
Thanks,
Doug
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boognish
Trad climber
SF
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Oct 16, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
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Sternschein?
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 17, 2008 - 10:52am PT
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How does quality stuff like this get on the back page while Juans please to vote for McCain....for him...stays on the front?
WTF?
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canyonrat
Trad climber
Armstrong BC
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Feb 22, 2010 - 10:23pm PT
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Thanks for the TR. Looking forward to doing the route in warmer weather
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 22, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
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Sweeet! Bbrrrrr rrr.
Z
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 22, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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Nice! Old school lives on!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Last clip of Lichen Lunch
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Feb 22, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
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I love that route.
Good job at hangin' in there.
Yeah, I'd call that full value.
Wahoo!!
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Feb 23, 2010 - 04:07am PT
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See, I missed that the first time round!
What a story, Victor! Thanks for writing up.
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greasemonkey
Trad climber
Davis, Ca
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Feb 23, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
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way to push through the bad weather guys. Thanks for posting.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Feb 23, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
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glad I caught this one on the bounce.
A one-day epic SUFFER-FEST!
Thank you for sharing, love those snowy pics!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Feb 23, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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Sweet TR. Love the cam/snow pic. Burrrrrr. Chilly!
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Feb 23, 2010 - 02:34pm PT
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And I thought the 5.7 runnout (with high drag from poor rope/sling management) was the lead crux and all I had to deal with was a windy day.
Snow covered knobs, yikes...
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 23, 2010 - 02:38pm PT
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Sadly we've lost drc to the redneck coast (think lower half of the east coast)
drc get your ass back out here!!!!!!
kev
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seth kovar
climber
Bay Area
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Apr 19, 2010 - 03:56pm PT
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Envy Bump!!!!
Good Show and thanks for the pics...
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 19, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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Sweet business, drc!!
Next time, yell at the doods using some French gutter talk! Get's 'em everytime!
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