Discussion Topic |
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Witch Hunter
Social climber
Templeton, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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Meeting a friend in Tucson in a couple weeks and we've talked about climbing this peak many times.
Does any one know of any routes besides the standard "walk up" (5.3)?
Thanks
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Witch Hunter
Social climber
Templeton, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
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Excellent!
Thanks a bunch
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 08:40pm PT
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Southeast Arete is the classic adventure at solid 5.7 with some routefinding skills required. Most of the rest of the routes on the east face are full engagement propositions. The south face has seen quite a bit of development and is much lower angle. The road in from the east side to Riggs Ranch can be pretty rough so check TRs.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 25, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
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The SE Arete is a fun outing. Did it from the west in the fall.
The Tonho-Ohodam (sp) have a really nice campground at the trailhead.
Had it all to ourselves. Make sure you pay and check in with the locals. The Tonho-Ohodam have been under pressure from Mexican smugglers and if you look like one or one of their potential customers you may be in for some extra scrutiny.
Leave the stash at home!
Long but pleasant walk to Lion Ledge. Tallest cactus forest I've seen anywhere.
We rapped the route rather than deal with finding the Forbes route for the descent.
Entertained by clouds of crows, A-10s and the tequila offerings on top.
The Tunas were ripe. Had a purple face and hands by the time we got back as well as a few spines in the fingers.
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 26, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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What a beautiful place. A funny common experience there is getting benighted one way or the other.
Johm Colby and Mike Cook and I spent a cold night on the SE Arete' after we topped out in October to find the summit covered in snow and unable to negotiate the descent while postholing. We attempted to rap the route when the rope was caught in a stout shrubbery. Then the headlamp failed.
Of course I got the outside edge of the ledge the size of what felt like a shoebox for the three of us. The chilly wind streamed up the wall into my rear most of the night. It was classic Stooges: in the same bed, rolling over and whistling at the same time. LOL! When the sun finally came up, we were out of there in like 30 minutes. The rope was accessible about 40 feet up with minimal effort.
This was all after getting stuck in the creek on the approach and getting about an 11 am start. Bring the headlamps and the ten essentials. A truly fun and memorable outing.
Have a super time there!
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Sep 26, 2008 - 12:49am PT
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Show respect for the mountain, be safe, and have fun.
Just saw the silhouette of Babo today...
There are many spirits there.
enjoy!
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Sep 26, 2008 - 01:09am PT
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Born of water is pretty good. 10c with the 10c bit being heavily bolt-protected.
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tdoughty
Mountain climber
descanso, ca
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Sep 26, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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Bobo on a fall day from the west side. Forbes descends the left skyline, raps into the dark cleft, and thence down the large ramp system to the wooded Lion's Ledge. SE Ridge is the right skyline.
JB on the lower SE ridge
JB higher on the SE ridge
DO IT!
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Scott Wayland
climber
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Sep 26, 2008 - 11:39am PT
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I've done the SE ridge twice. Absolute total blast. Go do it!
Scott
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Sep 26, 2008 - 01:08pm PT
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Babo is a wonderful peak. Be sure to leave a little something to I'itoi on top.
A nice side trip is Kartchner Caverns. You'll have to make a reservation for a tour, but it is very cool.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Sep 26, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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Mimi,
I'm lmao...
I'm hearing that cajun drawl just bitching away.
I'm sure you kept cooksie up all night with your whining :-)
Esteban, let's meet and do Babo with Randy before we can't walk anymore.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sep 26, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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Somewhere about where the second photo is I reached up for a hold and it had a hidden small cactus growing on it.
Now I had spines in a finger and only the use of one hand so I pulled the spine out with my teeth. I was a bit dehydrated and with the dry mouth didn't quite get the spine spit out. It alternately was stuck in my tongue or the roof of my mouth for the rest of the climb.
I now firmly believe every plant that grows in southern Arizona has some hidden way to hurt you.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Sep 26, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Dehydration and cactus spines- you are making me homesick for some AZ backcountry climbing!
The Cheap Way to Die Guidebook listed plants in three catagories-hurt, maim or kill. Ha!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Sep 27, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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One of the best desert peaks in the US. Watch out for the cacti on the approach. I guess you Arizona folk know all about that.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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My buddy Tim pointing out the start of the SE Arete...
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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Too funny Pablo. As I recall, it was Cooksie who got the rope hung up. I'm sure that you spend your time at forced bivies humming show tunes. heh-heh! Have a great time in Vegas.
Lion's Ledge is so cool and the cave area provides a super bivy.
Yep, desert veg is quite the stuff. Jumpin' cholla is my favorite, but the miniature agave variants along the Babo approach can do a great job on the ankles.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 27, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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Ah...shin daggers. I'd forgotten about those on the hike to Babo.
Yeah, those are lots of fun.
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Ron Raimonde
Big Wall climber
Sedona,Az
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Sep 27, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
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I haven't been in a while, but used to be a frequent haunt. Like everyone says SE arete is a good adventure outing. If you are looking for an epic, the East face is a place with a feel like no other. The routes are stout and serious,the rock can be worse than the Fisher towers, and much hair will be scratched off the top of your head placing gear. Ill bet the Spring Route would still check in at a solid A4. The photo is on the Spring Route, early 90's. About a half hour into this pitch, I ripped a string of tipped blades and RURPs breaking a finger as well as more than half the core strands on a brand new rope. Good fun memories! Also epic ed solo on Cradle of Stone "Bail", The East face is a proud wall, I have fond memories of the time spent there. have Fun! Ron
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 28, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
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The Spring Route was my first wall way back in high school about 75-76. Did it over the X-mas break with Gary Hervert.
Note the Forrest Pinbins!
Ron- what made you want to solo Cradle of Stone?
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Witch Hunter
Social climber
Templeton, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2008 - 01:16pm PT
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Thanks for all the info folks, should make it a great trip!
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crøtch
climber
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Sep 30, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
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bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Has this happened yet, witch?
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Witch Hunter
Social climber
Templeton, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
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Not yet Jaybro, looking around the end of the month. It should only be around 100 degrees by then.
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Weather is perfect down here...
have fun on your climb.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 11, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
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This is an original topo for Cradle of Stone done in 1982 with Jim Waugh in 2 1/2 days.
Lots of spicy free climbing with a little old school A-4.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Apr 17, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
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Trolling for any useful beta.
Going with Nature this weekend.
Anyone?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 17, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
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Jefe - Did the SE Arete a few years back (finally) with a buddy car-to-car from the east side. We had a great conversation after we got back down with the lady who's family owned the Riggs Ranch at that time. She was really nice.
SE Arete is a cruiser, so that's no biggie.
What route are you doing?
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Apr 17, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
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That's the plan Greg- SE Arete CTC from the East.
Descent? Forbes? Rap the SE? Opinions vary.
Wondering where to car camp the night before too.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 17, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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We camped in the truck in some flat spot on the drive in there. Maybe just outside the gate? This has been a while, so not sure if that's tolerated or not any more.
I had the benefit of my buddy having done the Forbes descent a few weekends before we did it, but I think a little route finding capability goes a long way and once you're on it, you're golden. Seem to remember there was one spot down near the base of the west side where if you go up and over a small notch, you scramble down and you're on the slope north of the peak that is easy to cross down to the saddle campsite, then you're home free. Wish I'd have made notes at the time. Forbes, though, seems pretty similar to the North Dome Gully descent... people make more out of it than they should. Just my opinion.
Launched at like 5:30am, back at 3:15pm. In, out.
Like going to Wisconsin.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Apr 17, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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Thanks man.
I grew up with Babo's silhouette ever present and even visited a sacred Pima (Tohono) cave at the base, as a boy.
I 'm really excited and just can't believe I've never climbed it before.
Wooohooo!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Apr 17, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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I met her at a bar last night. woke up with a nasty headache... but there she was... next to me. cheap date really. she wants in. Won't take much space... really. So we have a third. Locker will be jealous :-)
thanks for the beta, Greg. That's what I'm hoping for - in and out. We will find the rap station.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Apr 17, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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doug/drljefe
mt project now has a good deal on the Forbes raps. I went in 2 months ago and did SE arete to Forbes decent car to car w/ snow in a long day. It should be much faster. Drop excess gear on first part of traverse onto Lion's ledge as the ideal is down Forbes to saddle, then down to ranch HQ. To find that traverse to lion's look for 7/8 small agaves on left then follow cairn's up gully, left over death bowl, through trees, then around onto the ledge.
SE arete has a couple 5.6 sections but is really not that bad. You can switch to approach shoes after the third real pitch up to the notch. I did those exit move in trainers (tennies) but partner opted for rock shoes. From the summit, head north and down to NW gully system (sticking at first to left side, then right to ladder raps. To find the raps- follow the misc old metal ladder hangers if you get lost (a bolt here and there). Keep going north (through trees) to get to second raps. third rap is a gully/slot really trending north.
there is water (three 5 gl buckets) at the spring and more at Cougar Cave's spring.
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Anxious Melancholy
Mountain climber
Back of beyond
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Apr 17, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
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never camped on the east, only on the west. nice spots and a great trail to the base of the forbes, and continuing good use trail across lyons ledge to the base of the SE arete. easy day, even manageable with a wicked hangover. done as a great three day diversion from san diego. easy day drive out, easy day's climbing in beautiful setting, and thence an easy day drive home. plenty of time for exercises with 12 oz cans, etc.
Bobo from the west camp
F10 on the SE Ridge
F10 leading a 5.6 pitch on the SE Ridge
Which way do we go?
At rest
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Apr 17, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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jefe... dare we consider the west camp?
the "girl" likes the idea.
Edit: From Mountain Proj:
East:A four wheel drive or high clearance vehicle is recommended for this approach. Drive Hwy 86 west to Robles Junction and turn south on Hwy 286. Continue on for 29 miles, then take the first right after mp 16. Stay on this road for 2.7 miles, taking the first dirt road forking to the right. You will reach a sign and a gate at 6.5 miles. Park and continue through the gate on foot. After about a half mile, you will directed around the house and corrals to the trail up Thomas Canyon. This trail will put you on the saddle below Babo in two to three hours. Expect difficult route-finding.
West:Continue on Hwy 86 past Robles Junction to Sells. In Sells, take the 'business loop' and make a turn south toward the settlement of Topawa. Turn left at the sign for 'Baboquivari Park' and follow a good dirt road 10 miles to a fork. Go right. This will take you to Baboquivari Camp, which is operated and maintained by the Tohono O'odham nation.It is a great place have base camp. From camp, it is about two hours to the saddle, depending on party speed. The trail is well established and nearly impossible to lose.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Apr 17, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Apr 17, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
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Thanks rickd and Anxious melancholie.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 17, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
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It's been a few years ago but my experience at the west camp was great. We had the place all to ourselves in November.
Nice sites with lots of mesquite trees for shade and several war surplus tank trailers for water. Clean pit toilets.
My understanding is that the locals have first dibs and it may be closed if there's a tribal function, but those are very infrequent.
There's a tribal office at the turnoff from the road to the campground although it is frequently unmaned.
A couple of indians checked us out while we were there in the off season. Things were pretty informal and the method of payment is push the cash thru the slightly opened office window if no one is around. It was 10 bucks a night then.
The hike up from that side is really pleasant also, thru a forest of the tallest Suarros (40 ft'ers)I've seen anywhere and with as many ripe tunas as you can eat if they are in season.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Apr 17, 2009 - 09:52pm PT
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jefe.... we're so west side... *so* west side.
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Apr 17, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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Nature, & Jefe
Westside seemed to be the way for the SE Arete, not sure what you are planning on, have a great time and take some pic's to post!!!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Apr 18, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
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thanks all for the beta... we're solid... and we're just about OUUUUT!
n/j/rc
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