Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 124 of total 124 in this topic |
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2008 - 11:36am PT
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The first dozen routes up El Capitan followed mostly obvious crack systems up the towering monolith. Son Of Heart, established by Rick Sylvester in 1971 is no exception. The route follows the inside right lobe of the heart formation before punching thru the roofs above to a stunning series of left facing corners that shoot upwards towards the summit. These corners have some wide cracks & chimneys that have always intrigued me so it was with much anticipation that I decided to get myself up there to experience them firsthand.
Looking up from Heart Ledge
Starting up the bolts & old rivets on pitch # 5. A few placements lead to a long stretch of funky old dowels & just enough modern bolts to keep it casual.
This pitch leads to a steep leaning corner that took a bunch of Lost Arrows & offset cams & leads to the roof capping the Heart feature.
Next was the roof, Heartbreak Hotel. Some fixed pins & 1 bolt lead over the roof & up a leaning crack to a poor ledge above, the Heartbreak Hotel.
This is pitch 9. a corner that needed lots of cleaning to unearth the placements. Maybe A2, though the topo called it A3.
This is pitch #12, an unrated pitch on some topos. Supertopo says it's 5.11. I found it to be 5.10 & A1 at the very end, like the Reid/Meyers guide. The inside edge of this 6 to 7" lieback is pretty positive but rounds out as you get to apoint where you need to slip inside & wriggle for awhile. The aid part comes way up high on the 150' pitch where a steepening corner gets thin.
This leads to the ominous chimneys, so prominent from the ground. Here's Erik leading the Kierkegaard Chimney. A bombay slot that flares downwards, making protection more difficult. Big cams were key here! A very physical pitch. Erik got rug burns on his knees through long pants with kneepads on top.
Looking down the Nietzche Chimney. Another physical tormentor of a pitch in which big cams were essential.
These pitches are part of Alex Huber's free route El Corazon. Alex called Kierkegaard Chimney 5.12 B, Chris Mac's topo says 5.10B, go figure!!
A look out to show the bombay nature of the Kierkegaard Chimney. This is an amazing place to be!!
Here's a nice view looking down from up high. You can see Hollow Flake on the Salathe, far below.
Here's a view of the Calcite deposits that are found on El Cap where water runs much of the year. You find these formations on the Coral Sea Pitch on Native Son, & on the coral Corner on Aquarian Wall. These sharp little pihrahna teeth just grind your skin unless you're very careful. chickenwinging up the Nietche Chimney against this stuff almost burgered(buggered?) my arm. I recommend long sleeves for this section.
This is a 5.13 A pitch that goes at C2 with cams & wires. El Corazon then goes left, undercling a roof to reach the Golden Desert section of the Heart Route which then leads to the A5 traverse, another 5.13 pitch for that route. I was kind of wondering what is holding the block on the right in place? It seems detached on all sides & sits like a pestle right above the belay. It seemed solid when I got to it but you never know. It kind of hangs there like a big bomb waiting to go off.
This is pitch # 17, a fine headwall with amazing rock & the biggest view you could ever imagine. One more pitch leads to the Fat City corners which lead to the top.
This is a flake system that I saw back in 1994 when I did Sunkist. I always wanted to get back up there & climb it but the Huber Brothers beat me to it & then drilled holes in the edge of the flake for threaded runners. Kind of lame, if you're gonna drill a hole, fill it with metal I say! Now the flake has aging webbing slings that will no doubt need replacing sometime soon.
Soon enough we topped out & returned to the sublime valley floor for some R&R .
Edited insert part 2
Tonsilectomy Traverse ~ rated A3+ but more like A2. Very stimulating location here.
Throwing off a big-ass dirt hummock from the start of pitch #8, A1 hooks(what's that?) off Heartbreak Hotel. There was a ton of grass & weeds that needed to be cleaned to see where the hook edges were.
Another view of the struggle in the Kierkegaard Chimney.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Sep 23, 2008 - 11:46am PT
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A fine TR!!!
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Sep 23, 2008 - 11:48am PT
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Cool, thanks for the shots Levy.
I wish we had big cams back in 77 when Dale Bard and I did it. It was like going to war with a few Bongs.
One of my best times for sure!
Mike
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Sep 23, 2008 - 11:55am PT
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bump, nice lighting..and route.
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Gene
climber
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Sep 23, 2008 - 11:58am PT
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Beautiful.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Sep 23, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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Way to go guys! You and the "E" rock.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Sep 23, 2008 - 12:14pm PT
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Really nice TR, looks cool
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Sep 23, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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Good Lord, that's gnarly.....
well done.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Sep 23, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
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Hey Bill - Nice TR. One of the cooler routes that I've done, and I always thought that this is one of the most compelling lines on El Cap.
Paul
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Prod
Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Sep 23, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
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Cool. Very nice TR and Photos.
Prod.
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Blakeb
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Sep 23, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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Very nice TR and sick photos. Chimney looked cool. Glad to hear you guys sent.
Blake
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Sep 23, 2008 - 01:54pm PT
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Another awesome TR - Thanks Bill and E...cool shots!!!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Sep 23, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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Sep 23, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
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Thanks Levy.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Sep 23, 2008 - 03:31pm PT
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Nice job guys! Thanks for the pics! Where are E's pics of Bill???
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Sep 23, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
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Nice TR Levy!
Good Stuff.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 23, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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Always was curious about that route.
Sounds like a good time. Thanks for sharing and transporting me from my desk if only for a few minutes.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Sep 23, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
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spectacular!
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Sep 23, 2008 - 05:12pm PT
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I love it when a TR makes my palms sweat.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sep 23, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
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Sweet. I always wanted to go there. I've been on both sides of it, but the wide always kind of spooks me....
Great TR!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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Thanks for the positive commentary! I'll post up some more pics later this evening after I get home from work. I did a quickie job on this T.R. but I need to upload more pics to my photobucket account before I post any more images.
I'll post pics of Tonsilectomy & more in the next batch.
Bill
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Sep 23, 2008 - 10:09pm PT
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nice....
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Sep 23, 2008 - 10:27pm PT
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Nice one you guys!!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Sep 23, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
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Always wondered about that route, thanks for posting up the pics.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Sep 24, 2008 - 12:12am PT
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Sweet!
.12b, .10b. Six of one half dozen of the other.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 24, 2008 - 12:27am PT
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Hi Bill....
You and E are the real deal. Keep it up!!
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dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
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Sep 24, 2008 - 12:30am PT
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Beautiful Golden rock, Nice TR too.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Sep 24, 2008 - 12:43am PT
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It's amazing that you and E can keep the psyche going to keep doing those big nail ups. Now I can only look at those TRs and dream.
Thanks, Bill.
JL
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hungry man
Trad climber
around
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Sep 24, 2008 - 12:54am PT
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wow! thanks.
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Loomis
climber
(>_
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Sep 24, 2008 - 12:56am PT
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Bill and E, fůck yea, that's out there!
Now I know why I could not get ahold of you.
Jessica and I send you a big congratulations!
By the way, she started to climb and is motivated more by seeing the
beautiful pictures you post. Scott
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 24, 2008 - 01:06am PT
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Good to hear you made it safe and sound.
Emma and I just check out your pix. very excited for you and E.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 24, 2008 - 07:11am PT
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Great pictures and good commentary. "A" for your TR.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 24, 2008 - 11:44am PT
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Sweet!
Say, is Ole' E handlin' a piton on that roof shot at the bolt, or is he fixin' to hit the pipe?
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Sep 24, 2008 - 11:54am PT
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Awesome T.R...thnx. for the momentary escape from my reality!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 24, 2008 - 01:10pm PT
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E needs an appreciation thread
edit: This is in no way a slight against Levy as he's one badazz mofo himself
E abides
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Sep 24, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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RE:
"E needs an appreciation thread "
no doubt...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
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An E appreciation.
One of the best ways to improve as a climber is to climb with those who are better at it than you are. I have been lucky enough to climb with E a few times; at the Needles, The Rincon, Idyllwild, Josh and Yosemite.
A highlight was Astroman. We swung leads, and the way it shook out I did the last pitch. I was in a state of bliss as E topped out. The fact that our ascent was not perfect was the furthest thing from my mind as we began the decent. E’s question: “Can you come back and try it again next week?” hit me like a gunshot. I did not answer fast enough, and he followed up with “Well, you’re not satisfied, are you??”
We came back two weeks later and did it squeaky clean. I knew, of course, there was no doubt E would climb clean. The pressure was on me, since I knew that if I dangled even once, even while following, the entire event would be spoiled. My only option in this case would be some form of suicide.
We sent it, this was a real highlight for me, and I take the lessons of that ascent with me every time I go climbing. That was about 15 years ago.
Thanks, E…
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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Thanks for the new pics Bill!!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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Man, you guys are heroes.
Also, nice story Kris.
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Gene
climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:23pm PT
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Unbelievable. Just stunning!
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
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Yikes!
Don't fall. "Son Of Heart" me and Shipley 5th ascent.
Thanks Levy, "E" and Gene for the great photos ......
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Gene
climber
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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Werner,
Levy posted new pics at the beginning of the thread. I just copied his. What a wild shot!
GM
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Sep 24, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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Fanstastic.
Beautiful pics.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Sep 24, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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the rating of the bombay chimney pitch is 5.8 chimney to 10b hands- just like what mac says in the topo. I guess I need to brush up on the free skills cause I hung on the gear some. I was out so far at one point that I think that I would have probably gone 100' if I whipped.
Erik
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
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Yeah, what he said....
I thought Nietzche Chimney was 5.10 & A1/A3+. The reason for the A1/A3+ rating is that although I had a cam close-by, the crack was so downwards flaring that the cams would sometimes fail to hold when weighted. At one point I had 2 biggies clipped together equalized onto my aider & the other large cam I placed overhead & it skated when I pulled down on it. I took a short daisy whipper onto the other two whid held but if they had ripped, I would have been pachinko balled down the slot & been thrashed or injured. That is why I am declaring it A1/A3+.
Erik's lead looked fierce too but with a bigger fall potential. I'm declaring it 5.10 & A-something. Go experience it for yourself!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 24, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
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Thanks. Great TR with fine shots.
How do you go to the bathroom up there?
;-)
Karl
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Sep 24, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
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My favorite E shot:
The Pirate, Suicide [Epperson image from an old BD catalog.]
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Sep 24, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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RE:
" At one point I had 2 biggies clipped together equalized onto my aider & the other large cam I placed overhead & it skated when I pulled down on it."
gulp...
first time I saw E, he don't remember it;
'77, coming down from Suicide rock w/ Brent Hoffman,
Brent stopped and asked E a couple questions;
I knew it then:
dude's a Real Climber.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Sep 24, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
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Walt encouraged me to get on this one, and I never did, yet
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 10:52am PT
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bump for E, Levy and some great pics
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2008 - 11:53am PT
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Fabulous TR guys! Don't get to see much of this route as it has enough mandatory free climbing to keep the crowds at bay. The philosopher's chimneys just ain't sling jockey territory! LOL
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 26, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
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Nice TR!,
Jaybro, that Kierkegaard chimney has your name on it.
Zander
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Double D
climber
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:35am PT
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Great photos! Thanks for sharing em.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Sep 27, 2008 - 12:48am PT
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Fantastic! Thanks for sharing.
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Terry
climber
Spokane
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Sep 27, 2008 - 11:10am PT
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Great TR. Thanks for the motivation.
Deserved bump!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 27, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Good time. Thanks for posting it, something fun to look at. Keeps me motivated, so now I'll go do my PT, extra hard.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
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Tom and I climbed Son Of Heart a few years ago, and sadly I believe it may have been my least favourite El Cap route. I just didn't like the chimneys and had a real tussle in some of them. Neither of us is a "real" climber - we cheated our way up with Tom's Valley Giant 9" and 12" cams. Even so, a real struggle. Particularly memorable were the "poorly protected California wetlands".
So I was pleasantly surprised to recall a few good memories when looking at Bill's superb photos! The colours are amazing, and in spite of some nastiness there is some good climbing on the route. I guess Son of Heart is kinda like Chongo - either you get it, or you don't. And I don't see the attraction. {blech} But I respect those who enjoyed climbing the route.
There are a few really good bits, though, like the traverse and the headwall above Sunkist. I was sorry the ASCA types repeated the first ascensionists' error in the placement of the penji anchor bolt above the slick arete - were you to lean only a couple feet out from the last natural placement, and use a left-handed driller, you could place the bolt far enough left to avoid twenty feet of vertical jungle bashing.
Thanks for the pix, Bill.
Cheers,
Pete
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Beautiful photos and excellent TR
Thanks
lars
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Really amazing - the photos the story, all of it. Thanks so much for putting it out there.
BTW, Brass Nuts says he has rump pucker syndrome (RPS) just looking at this trip report!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2008 - 10:27pm PT
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Hi Pete!
Nice job on Kaos! I had my mind warped by that route. I did it in '97 and at the time it was the hardest route I had been on. I was almost brought to tears by some of the reaches & such on some of the pitches.
On Son Of Heart, on the pendulum on pitch 10, I tensioned off left & got a skatey hook right on the arete, got on that & hooked down & way out left again, to a 3/8" wide edge that I hooked on & made the transition into the other crack with a minimal loss of elevation. It seemed much better than going way down & battling more shrubbery to get back to the same spot.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Missed this fine TR the first time round, so I'm glad someone bumped it. Amazing climbing.
D
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
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Hey Bill,
I'm sitting here laughing in my coffee at your comments on KAOS! Yeah, it's still Pretty Darn Hard up there. Huge reaches, dangerous leads, horrifying runouts, tears and fears ... great stuff. I think. It seems more fun now that I'm off of it.
Sounds like you found the Better Way to beat that twenty feet of vertical jungle bashing after the penji bolt on SOH. I still think the bolt should have been placed farther left!
When I think back on Son Of Heart, maybe it wasn't so bad after all. For there is no such thing as a bad route on El Cap! I just remember being absolutely miserable getting jammed up into those chimneys, trying to move cams and get some sort of upward progress. At one point, Tom shouted at me, "you haven't bloody moved in half an hour!" Because I couldn't - I was so stuck!
Tom later did a masterful job on the Tonsillectomy Traverse, placing all these crazy-ass pin-stacks with Leeper Zeds and sawed-offs and the like.
You write above that "big cams" were the key. What did your big cam arsenal consist of?
Cheers,
Pete
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Oct 12, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Bump for the stunning photos. Nice job guys. I saw you at the ledges raps (partner Erik and I just finished TTrip).
Great TR and thanks for posting!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 12, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
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Super Duper guys!
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bubble boy
Big Wall climber
T100
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Oct 12, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
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Thanks for the beautiful TR. Lots of psych!!! I want it!!! Salad? You out there? What do you think?
Yum
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Oct 14, 2008 - 01:44pm PT
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Fantastic!
Uh, dunno if I really want to have part of my mind exfoliate...
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Jim E
climber
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Oct 15, 2008 - 11:53am PT
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Sports Racer bump of awesomeness.
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lilolehs
climber
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Oct 18, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
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Beautiful photos, William!
Susan
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sempervirens
Trad climber
Trinity County
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Oct 18, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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Levy, (and everybody)
Great photos, awesome route. Everybody has said so and I agree.
What about the dirt hummock? "... grass and weeds that needed to be cleaned". Should we be doing that? How long did it take for that hummock to get to that size? Hey, what species of grass was that?
What do you all think?
Throwing off a big-ass dirt hummock from the start of pitch #8, A1 hooks(what's that?) off Heartbreak Hotel. There was a ton of grass & weeds that needed to be cleaned to see where the hook edges were.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
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Sempervirens wrote:
What about the dirt hummock? "... grass and weeds that needed to be cleaned". Should we be doing that? How long did it take for that hummock to get to that size? Hey, what species of grass was that?
What do you all think?
In my experience, routes that receive little traffic, often have grassy sections that need to be cleared out to find the placements hidden beneath. Trade routes are cleaned constantly with every ascent. Routes that see few ascents get filled with grass & flowers, especially when there's a source of water dripping nearby.
If you have the cajones to fire a hook into the grass/mud & get on it without seeing what it's hooked on, you are a brave individual indeed. That hummock in the pictures was small compared to the one I hucked off a minute before. I yelled "Rock" a bunch of times just as it was peeling away from the rock to alert any climbers below. It must have been the size of a wheelbarrow & weighed at least 40 lbs.!
Bottom line: if you are gonna climb rock, you are gonna have to clean the placements out from time to time.
I have no idea what kind of grasses are up there but I've seen many flowers.
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sempervirens
Trad climber
Trinity County
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Oct 18, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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uh-huh, but what if you did find out what species it was. wouldn't that be something.
And yeah, climbing rock might necessitate cleaning rock. Flushing a toilet pollutes water, starting my car puts carbon in the atmosphere, etc. You get the idea.
We still choose to do what we do. So, if you choose to launch a dirt hummock, wouldn't it be wise to consider that action a bit more. Or to define "weed" when you pull one out. Maybe find out what it is. What if it were a very rare plant. Could be an unknown species, not likely but ya never know. Species unknown to western science are found every year in California.
What kind of flowers did you see up there? Monkey flowers, willow herb, maybe. Selaginella, (that's not a flower).
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 19, 2008 - 11:39am PT
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Guidebook descreption of sections of Son Of Heart:
"Poorly protected California wetlands"
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2008 - 02:15am PT
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Hey Pete,
"Poorly protected California wetlands"
How about the A1 rating on the wetlands section? It seemed more difficult than the "A3+" hooks above, eh?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 20, 2008 - 09:10am PT
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Awesome report and pix, guys.
WOW WOW WOW!!!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 20, 2008 - 10:33am PT
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It's a little known aid climbing fact, Bill, that on the SW Face of El Cap, if you equalize 37 weeds, they will hold body weight. Start with 37 3mm water bottle neck loops, and get creative with couple hundred metres of 1/2" webbing. Complete the placement with a Scream-Aid for full UIAA certification.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 25, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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Big Wall TR Bump!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 29, 2010 - 12:39am PT
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The Culprit
"Hmmm, I wonder where the Grey Poupon is?"
Samarkand market
(check out the chic bellbottoms!)
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 29, 2010 - 02:07am PT
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Thanks so much for putting in the time and effort for this TR. SOH has always held a certain place in my life. I had planned to do it with a friend of mine in the Spring of '75. I got really sick and ended up in the hospital by the first of June, and missed out. I wish I could relive that Spring/Summer.
My friend, Dave Stutzman(with Maurice from Norway)went ahead and attempted the second ascent. Got within less than a pitch from the top.
He gave me pitch by pitch account. What I recall vividly is his discription of the back to back wide pitches. Kirkegaard and Nietzsche. He led them both with zero pro. Belay to belay. No aid, no bongs, and of course their were no Cams BITD.
Dave Stutzman was a bad azz...RIP Dave!
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Plumbbob
Mountain climber
Juneau, AK
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Jan 29, 2010 - 02:52am PT
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Just a note, I climbed with Dave in 1977 and his stories of the Son of Heart route were entertaining and educational. I think I have some of his origional slides from his attempt in with some of our other climbing pictures. I'll try to get those scanned and then add them to this thread.
BP
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 29, 2010 - 07:21am PT
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TripL7 - how the heck can someone get within a pitch of the top, and not complete the second ascent? Whether you count the "top" the beginning of the slab, or the very top, none of those pitches up there is hard. I don't get it.
Did they rap the whole route? Get stormed on? Did someone drop them a toprope?
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 29, 2010 - 08:41am PT
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PtPP!
They ran out of water. Dave said he didn't have the energy to high-step his aiders on the overhanging wall(not technically difficult). They were suffering from dehydration. He went up several times but couldn't step up high enough to place a pin. The next pitch(Fat City??)eases off and they would have been home free.
They laid there for about 3-4 days, at which time Chapman and Orey wrapped down to the ledge(Thanksgiving??)and dropped them a line. Dave was hoping someone would lower down a couple liters of water. He felt that he would be able to finish the last(steep)pitch and complete the route. But Mark and Jim had not brought much water(half quart).
That's why Dave was upset in regards to the rescue. He felt that if it was one of there friends they would have brought sufficient water for them to finish the route. They had plenty of food, but they couldn't swallow it without water. He didn't want to be rescued.
Plumbbob! Looking forward to seeing those pics. Thanks!
Trip~
EDIT: Regardless, they were rescued and should have shown more appreciation.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 29, 2010 - 10:56am PT
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What, no love for my portrait of The Culprit?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
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Reilly,
Obviously none of us has the slightest idea who The Culprit is. How about a name?
TripL7, that is an amazing story! What a terrible way to fail. That would never happen nowadays with cell phones and two-way radios. SOH finishes right of Thanksgiving coming onto the edge of a two-pitch long slab, which is a nasty low-angle drag-fest finish now shared with Sunkist.
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Jan 29, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
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great TR guys...
Bump!!!
Cheers
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 29, 2010 - 07:21pm PT
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PtPP!
Yea, they were about 75 ft below the slab pitches on the overhanging wall! Dave felt as though they could have finished it, or at least made it to the top and left the haul bag until later. If they could have got up to the lower angled pitches.
So it goes.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 29, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
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Pete,
I assumed (I know) that everybody already knew
what Sylvester looked like, without his Asgard skis on, that is.
I guess I also assumed y'all would make the deduction
based on the thread title; my bad!
ps
posted simultaneously with Jim B
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skywalker
climber
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Jan 30, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
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bump...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 19, 2010 - 01:35am PT
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If one was climbing Son of Heart, and fell, would it be considered a Freudian slip? Would a pinnacle have to be part of the scenario?
Bump.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 19, 2010 - 10:42am PT
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perfect Monday morning find! Thanks for the share
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 19, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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If several parties get all bunched up and retreat off of this one, does it qualify as congestive heart failure?!? LOL
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Apr 19, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
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bump for awesome.
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Double D
climber
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Apr 19, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
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Great TR Tony.
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Gabe
climber
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Apr 21, 2010 - 01:50am PT
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Some of the best photos I've seen of these pitches! Charging Hard! Thanks.
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Rick Sylvester
Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
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A few words from "The Culprit" (I should be asleep now like all decent people but I've never been decent)....Wow. wow. wow -- what a discovery! Thanks so much! Those great photos are the first time I've been able to revisit the route not to mention the chimneys -- of course no decent person would want to -- since I was up there in '71 or whenever it was (camera trouble resulted in no photos past the Heart). I have no memory of unusual or excessive vegetation on the route. That doesn't mean it wasn't there, just, as stated, that I have no memory (I could write volumes of the things of which I have no memory,if only I could remember what they were so I could write). Likewise, I have no idea of what's being referred to by the wrongly placed anchor bolt above an arete. Not many anchor belts were placed...I think. The only one I can recall placing was one at the end of the Tonsillectomy Traverse because I was having severe problems due to horrible rope drag. Some time later, years?, I realized a way I could have avoided the rope drag, so I accept blame. Life's tough enough even without being stupid. But I don't think this is the bolt being referred to.
But I can explain about the bolt under the Heart roof. I do indeed have very definite memories, perhaps even correct ones, on this subject. Not to mention some guilt still to this day. I had the guilt right from when I was placing it -- and yes, of course it was a quarter incher. I knew that better climbers or more daring climbers or more ethical climbers or some combination thereof would not have placed it. My reason -- rationalization? -- for so doing was that if I zippered the roof and smacked into the wall, a la Mike Hoover's staged zipper fall on "Bishop's Balcony" in his Academy Award short subject nominated film "Solo", I risked getting injured, perhaps badly. Aside from the normal problems with an injury in such a situation there was an additional one. My partner, Claude Wreford-Brown, was inexperienced at big wall climbing. He'd been one of the two best and most avid students I'd taught/guided the summer of '69 at the ISMM -- there were two Ms then; the deleted one stood for "Modern" -- climbing school in Leysin, Switzerland, run by Dougal Haston following founder John Harlin's 4000' plunge off the Eiger Direct Route. Claude did an amazing job on the route, especially considering his inexperience. Save for placing around half a dozen bolts and dowels on one pitch he did no leading but essentially belayed me for 10 days, all the while dealing with the exposure, fear and fatigue, the heat of midsummer -- my understanding was and is that it was the first time an El Cap big wall was first ascended in the height of summer -- and running out of food and more important water the final two and a half days. His achievement and contribution were nothing to scoff at. In addition, all his belaying, all ten days of it, was in a sit harness, the original Whillans sit harness (the first roped climb of my life was with Don Whillans at the ISMM school in '66, 3 months after Harlin's fateful accident). He had no belay seat and virtually every belay was a sling belay on the virtually ledgeless route. You should have seen the welts on the sides of his thighs he revealed to me on the summit! Anyway, my feeling was that due to Claude's inexperience at that type of climbing in that situation I had an unusual responsibility and a large part of that meant not getting incapacitated in any way. Of course retreat from high up on any climb can be epic even in perfect conditions with all team members fully functioning. Recently attempting to write an account of this climb after all the passage of time, it struck me, looking back with all the great perspective based on my great age (that, by the way, is not meant to imply any great or even average amount of maturity; after all, I still climb) that Son of Heart was the climb of my life. And this wasn't due just to the route's nature but to my role of responsibility. It was tough but a grand grand adventure and I've long really regretted that I never went for another El Cap first; there were certainly possibilities. After all, many other climbers achieved multiple El Cap big wall ascents. True, I got busy with the El Cap skiBASE jumps and other stuff. But still. The Upper Yosemite Wall route was the only thing sort of in the same vein, six days in length, but it still didn't compare. I was with a qualified, perhaps even more so aid-wise than I, partner (Chauncey Parker). A related side note to all this which I've never revealed before. Claude had a much better hammock than I, a state-of-the-art single anchor point one vs. my lousy fishnet-ish two point one. His worked properly from just about any place it was hung; mine, only if the two anchor points were properly spaced. When the climb started becoming epic-like -- the running out of food and water, the heat, etc. -- I wanted to insist that we switch hammocks under the perfect logic that since I was doing all the leading it was essential that I be able to function as well as possible, ie.get as good a night's sleep as possible. I obsessed about this for days, about requesting we trade hammocks. But despite the impeccable sound logic it of course appeared outrageous -- I'd never heard of it having ever occurred before in the annals of mountaineering -- and I lacked the courage to ever effect the request. Anyway, that's the story of the roof bolt. Soon after drilling it it the upward driven knifeblade placements appeared to seem sounder and due to the weird nature of the roof I wasn't just totally dangling but my knees were in contact with rock. So of course the doubts that I'd chickened out entered my, yes, partially exfoliated brain -- probably more from that roof than the chimneys -- and are surely still lodged there. And I have no real hopes that the matter won't come up for review when I'm at the Pearly Gates. And if this -- believe me, there's a lot of other stuff -- is what makes the difference of my not getting in -- well, I understand. I surely deserve my fate. All logic and reasons aside, I wasn't tough enough. I chickened out.
And Reilly, that was your photo, which I've never seen before, in Samarkand during our '78 AAC/Soviet Mountaineering Federation exchange expedition. Amazing. And your name, after all this time, came up just a month or so ago from Carlos Buhler on his way to Nepal. He sent me notice of our fellow team member Steve Hackett who recently suffered a heart attack and died at the age of 65 -- way too early -- whilst skiing in Wyoming. I'm sure you know that Chuck Kroger, just a unique person, one in a billion (and he did the third ascent of the N.A. Wall when it still had the reputation as "the world's hardest rock climb" passed away a couple of years ago, cancer. on Christmas Day. A third of our team is gone; it's getting a bit lonely and scary. Carlos, ever the considerate person he is, wrote that he didn't know how to contact you. And I replied that you lived in Seattle, obviously oblivious to the fact that things like addresses could change in 33 years. And it appears you're another of the 37 million like me residing in the Golden State. How about that! I love the photo. It's a more pleasant memory than those of the chimneys. I was young once! Unreal, although a bit disconcerting. I'd love to get in touch with you. I get to Southern California occasionally.
Oh, it was also nice to get some explanation of the calcite growths after all this time. As if the chimneys weren't bad enough without them.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks for sharing the cool stories, Rick.
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Rick Sylvester
Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
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May 16, 2011 - 03:32am PT
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Thanks for the kind words. All of you have done amazing things -- some obvious, some more subtle -- of which I stand in total awe.
Now got to go out and shovel even though it's mid May, but another of those winters that don't end. Amgen first stage bicycle rce cancelled yesterday. Wonder if the Squaw stage 2 will get off tomorrow. Would rather get in some climbing; the shoveling, even occasional skiing, was good for the first several months. Now it's just getting a bit old. More of it and I'll even prefer getting back on SoH -- sure.
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Old timer
Trad climber
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
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Rick, my dear old chum:
40 years ago you dragged this timid climbing rabbit up El Cap. I still have nightmares about some of pendulums following you. I was pretty much resigned to the fact that we were both going to die when you ran out the whole 50 meters on the bomb bay chimney without placing any pro. I actually negotiated a deal with god that if he got me out alive I would go back to England and open an Antique store in Brighton. Still on my bucket list, I guess.
Anytime you are up in the top left hand corner you are welcome to my hammock/ bed/ bunk. This time we'll have enough water. Likely something stronger
You going to the Vagabond reunion in September? I am going to be lecturing in Sydney, Aus so will miss it.
I'm still out there on my telemarks every winter. Off this morning to go climbing with my daughter on Mt Erie, an amusing pimple that looks out through the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Then we are sailing down to Deception Pass to catch the sunset.
Beauregards old pal. Nice to hear you're still alive and kicking...Claude..Seattle
PS Thanks Levy, the pictures nailed it. The flame burns in you, mate
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Rick,
That is shocking about Steve. I was fondly thinking of him a day or two ago.
At least he went doing what he loved and quickly I hope. Well, I'm off for
my age-related colonoscopy - Woo Hoo!
ps
Here's one from your dental procedure in Dushanbe...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
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How cool is it that he posted up on here!
Absolutely f-ing amazing.
Welcome to ST Claude!!
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fosburg
climber
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
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Very cool to hear from the first ascent team! Always curious what was up with the philosophers. The Keirkegaard pitch is by far the most proud but Nietzsche is held in such comparatively high regard as a thinker it seems. I'm a huge fan of SK however and am so glad such an amazing pitch bears his name. Well done on one of the truly classic lines on El Cap.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
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Stellar photography!!!!! I'm not worthy!!!
-e
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:34am PT
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A thread that just keeps on ticking.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jan 23, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
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Bump for the glory! Next season, this route is goin down!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Bump for getting out there and getting it done!
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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Bump for climbing content, Awesome pictures of a seldom done route killer TR!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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Walleye - I remember watching Ben Wah from well above, when I was on some other route. I am knott sure he finished, however.
You should have seen the look on Ben Wah's face when I told him what his nickname *really* meant - he had no idea.
I think Nanook might have been up there before me and Tom.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Better than boobs bump!
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Walleye,
In all fairness to Dave Stutzman & his partner Maurice (don't recall his last name) they should be included on that list. They basically climbed the whole route. Dave did the second lead/ascent of those back to back chimneys (Kierkgard & Nietche). They climbed the whole damn route, except for around 1/2-2/3rds of the very last pitch. They, technically, did the 2nd ascent of the whole route (in good style) except for the final overhanging pitch (ran out of water). They should get some credit for doing that. That was the Spring of 1975!
edit: Walleye - Thanks bro!!
Epic indeed. It was both of their's 1st El Cap route (YIKES) and they gave it thier best shot (100+ %) turned out to be an all time epic & memorable, for sure... definately deserves a footnote (at least) in the annals of El Cap history regarding this route. I know DS (RIP) would have definitely appreciated it. thnx again!!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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RP3, holler if you need a pard for this one!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 26, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
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Fifteen or less ascents? Really?
Cool!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 26, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Those esoteric chimneys are tough to drag large ball sacs up through.
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rollingstone
Trad climber
Seattle
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Aug 26, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Walleye- My friend Avary Tichenor did the route with John Barbella in 1986 if I remember correctly. Avary passed away in 1988, R.I.P. He is sorely missed
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 26, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
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Gary and I did SoH in '86. Barbella and Avery did it a few years before we did - I believe it was '84-ish because I thought they did the 4th ascent. I'll ask John and report back...
Paul
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 29, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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Talked to Barbella - he said he and Avary did SoH in 80 or 81, 4th or 5th ascent he thinks...
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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I did SOH with PTPP Zabrok in the Fall of 2006 or 2007. It was the same year he busted up his ankle on the Sheep Ranch in the Spring.
It was a great route. I got most of the leads on that one, because PTPP's foot was being held together with metal pins. He probably shouldn't have been up there, at all, after reconstruction surgery. But, we had a great time. It's got a few wild sections, but it's mostly rather moderate.
I lost eight or ten rolls of 35mm film I shot on that route.
The local photo processing company went out of business, and the rental agency chained up the doors while the bankruptcy circus proceeded. The rental agent told me that there was no way to get my photos, but that when the matter was settled, he would have everybody's photos in his office, ready to be picked up. Then, he became angry at the situation's resolution, and just threw out everybody's pictures.
 Tom Kasper
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
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Big wall Stokage bump action.
Who's gonna be next up this amazing route?
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Aug 24, 2016 - 05:07am PT
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Hey Bill
as of Tom Evan's last report for June it looked like gerberdine and d griff were headed up there
not sure if they sended
EE
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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What beautiful rock. I can almost smell it!!!
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Ian Parsons
climber
UK, England
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2. Stutzman/Maurice. 1975 (jugged a line out on last pitch due to dehydration)Quote Here
Maurice Cochand.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I bow down. Really nice photos and almost enough of them of chimneys! It sounds like it was a pretty tranquilo ascent? Whenever I start thinking I was an ok Valley climber, I read something like this and know, "naw, not really". But I did have fun.
Thanks
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