Discussion Topic |
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2005 - 06:50pm PT
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Shameless Promotion of my climbing gear Auction:
Tonight 33 lots of big wall climbing gear will come on line on Ebay, starting a 6:45, and other things coming online in 15 minute intervals, until 8:15 (the batch of big wall spoons!). See "Welcome, the Deuce" thread for an overall picture of the room full of gear.
My Ebay name is Climberdeuce, and all the auctions end on Wednesday, March 23, between 6:45 and 8:15pm
Lots of good stuff here--30 years worth of gear, lots of new stuff (including 3 A5 big wall hammers), lots of still useful big wall gear, and lots of junk too!
Portaledges, Haulbags, and Softgoods will go up for sale in mid- to late April.
Good luck, and thanks.
(apologies for this commercial announcement)
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2005 - 09:11pm PT
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Klaus, that is a totally fictional story, never happened. Good legend, though,'cept I can't imagine it happening--no way, no metal down there.
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 18, 2005 - 10:47pm PT
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like a kid in a candy store...
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 19, 2005 - 01:32pm PT
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8 spoons and the bid is at $51. This is one expensive candy store....
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StyMingersfink
climber
the 51st state.... denial
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Mar 19, 2005 - 01:33pm PT
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It's not the spoons, it's the stack of stickers next to them! (that's my guess, anyway)
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 19, 2005 - 01:39pm PT
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9 spoons, stack of stickers
No way man. Somebody is totaly blowing it here. This is a classic eBay sucker bidding. Deucey will love this.
There's 9 spoons, ..... now how many fingers on your hands?
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 19, 2005 - 01:50pm PT
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9 spoons it is. I really do think it's the spoons but I'm sure the stickers help. Either way... that's amazing. And even if it is a sucker bet (which I really don't think) there's more than enough backup bids. ogtshack - Shack, that you? - has $50 down. If it is you Shack, is it the stickers or the spoons?
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 19, 2005 - 02:27pm PT
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Yup, It's me....
It's definitely the spoons...
I really wish Deucey would have put them up separately...
But hey, if I win them, I'm more than happy to keep 2 and sell
the rest for what I pay.
I'm not trying to hoard I just don't want some gumby gettin the goods. :)
(besides if Deuce needs the cash I don't want to low ball him)
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 19, 2005 - 02:54pm PT
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Sweet... Good for you. I'm just glad I have a secret.
$61! I won't do a blow-by-blow of any other items but the spoons! The crazy thing is if you do win and share the wealth those bad boys will sell for $10 each at this rate!
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 19, 2005 - 03:41pm PT
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Yeah, thats cool klaus, but if it was only about money,
I'd just keep using the same GI can opener and lexan spoon I've been using for years.(probably even weighs less)!
Anyways...Who's this thompsonjosh character outbidding me?
Josh Thompson? one of you guys? Hmmmmm...
Nature, Whats your secret? Oh do tell!
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Mar 19, 2005 - 06:10pm PT
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Josh Thompson...that's me.
There are several "JT's" out there in the climbing world but I happen to be the one bidding on the spoons.
josh
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 19, 2005 - 06:15pm PT
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It's not really a secret. I'm just feeling spunky because I had a feeling my DAWGS would whoop up on Pacific. I consulted with deuce a bit on some ebay tips/techniques so he's sending me a spoon and some other items. I hope nothing that'd fetch real money. Just glad I don't have to be in the bidding war for a damn spoon! I'm watching the bids and wishing the whole auction wasn't so publisized. Too many goods - too little funds. Bottom line is I just wanna see him rake it in on ebay. I've no advantage nor would I want it. This really is fun to watch.
klaus... just one question.. If I bought one could I send it to you and have it stamped "klaus"?
$76! damn... ya'll gonna let it hit triple digits?!?!
oh... and WOOF WOOF - GO DAWGS GO... sweet 16, baby!
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akclimber
Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
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Mar 19, 2005 - 06:23pm PT
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Why exactly is he selling his stuff? That must be killing him to do that. Is he like the rest of us and in debt? I hope it isn't for medical bills, that would suck!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 19, 2005 - 06:27pm PT
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He's not selling everything. If you look at the other thread with the full load of picts you'll see that the last one is the stuff he's keeping. Do you own 12 drills? If you did might you consider parting with 10 at some point? And why is not for us to ask - just be happy the candy store is open.
oh and flamer... you're outbidding me to. Maybe we need to have a chat out back? Guido would like a word.
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 19, 2005 - 06:48pm PT
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So flamer.. If you win the spoons, whater ya gunna do with 'em?
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Mar 19, 2005 - 07:07pm PT
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Guido should meet tyrone.....
IF i win I'll probably keep a couple one to use, one to hang on too. Give some to a couple of buddies, then maybe sell the rest.
good luck fella's!!
josh
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 19, 2005 - 07:32pm PT
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Holy sh-it are you guys really going to pay $80.00 for some spoons?
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 19, 2005 - 09:23pm PT
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You keep that up and guido is gonna kick the crap outta tyrone. Yer just lookin' to pick up a brawl.
Werner - crazy huh? Don't forget the stickers.
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Mar 19, 2005 - 09:25pm PT
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Werner- maybe. We'll see if it goes any higher- I could easily be outbid cause I'm pretty much done.
Guess that's what happens when you go get a "real" job...money to burn....you should see me at the tables in Vegas!
josh
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Mar 19, 2005 - 09:28pm PT
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Nature...Are you trying to get both solo-aids? I only want one for collectors sake....tell you what I'll bid on one you bid on the other...that way we don't screw each other.
josh
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 19, 2005 - 09:33pm PT
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yeah sure... i was um... oh never mind. though if I read the right they are still useable.
speaking of vegas... maybe that's a great place for a superdopo's get together. How fun would it be for two dozen dirt bags to descend on the Bellagio?
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Mar 19, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
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thanks nature for the ebay post, it is a big help for a computer tard.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 20, 2005 - 01:22am PT
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yeah right... more competition for the candy... yer frickin' welcome, buddy :-)
seriously though, don't thank me - thank duece for hording the stuff for the past 30 years. I'm merely a small rivit on the bolt ladder of one John Middendorf. (bad attempt, sorry- too much three buck chuck tonight)
WOOF
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 20, 2005 - 01:33am PT
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I'm merely a small rivit on the bolt ladder of one John Middendorf.
That's a very nice statement nature.
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2005 - 06:28pm PT
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Three more lots coming online tonight (Sunday): These lots are:
Big set of Bongs (not the smoking kind)
Set of 25 big wall stoppers
Full rack of pitons for the El Cap aspirant or hardman.
Three day auction only, these will end also on Wednesday.
Thanks!
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2005 - 06:55pm PT
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Klaus, I think their's were a different shade, like a lighter green. Mine were always a darker green. I thought Shipley used a pink or a red or something...?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 20, 2005 - 08:15pm PT
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I thought it was from "Voodoo Child" ?
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bigwalling
climber
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Mar 20, 2005 - 08:34pm PT
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you don't need the helmet anyways!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Mar 20, 2005 - 08:55pm PT
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Hey Nature,
I see you are going for one of those hammer's. Just curious as to why? What kind of hammer are you running now? Are you upgrading or just want one of those (as my friend Jim Erdman would call them) A5 wall clubs.
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Mar 21, 2005 - 10:10am PT
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I'm rethinking the spoons....if you want them bid $81.00 and I'll bow out.
I'd rather spend the money on those bongs!!!
josh
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 21, 2005 - 11:25am PT
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T2 - I'm moving to Alaska to become a baby harp seal hunter - figured that club would work nicely. I'M KIDDING PEOPLE!
I've always wanted the A5 wall club. Guess I still do. I'm not really planning replacing my other hammer (least I don't think).
I run a Black Diamond and....
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2005 - 12:58pm PT
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Thank you all for your interest in my auction. It looks lively, and I will be planning to get everything ready to ship tonight and tomorrow. Hopefully Paypal will work for most folks.
Stay tuned for a bunch of portaledges and haulbags next month, including a rare breathable three person Diamond Fly only used once during a film shoot in Baffin around 2000. I am hoping that makes it to a good home...
thanks again!!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Mar 23, 2005 - 01:13pm PT
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I will be auctioning off my collection of used poop buckets starting tomorrow at 10am sharp. Only serious bids considered. This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity! Don’t miss out!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Mar 23, 2005 - 02:28pm PT
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Nope. I use a 5-gallon paint bucket. The trick is to not mix up the food bucket and the poop bucket though cracking the lid when hungry will quickly tell you if you have the right bucket or not!
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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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Mar 23, 2005 - 08:30pm PT
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OMG, $150 for a wall hammer and still going!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 08:33pm PT
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That's absolutly nuts, I think I'm gona sell my sh#t there after the Deuce and make some easy money.
I saw steelmonkey get sniped by some speedy sniper on those bongs. They went for $93.00 plus $7 for shipping. That's 100 bucks for some bongs, whew!!
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bigwalling
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 08:41pm PT
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ya, I'm not willing to pay a penny more than the 126 I have bidded! But seeing how that one is going at 150+ already... I don't think I will be paying anything.
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 23, 2005 - 08:55pm PT
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Bigwalling,
Sorry man! My bro T2 broke his hammer climbing with me on Iron Hawk and I kinda want to give him a present,since it was our last climb together.
Deuce is definitely makin' out on this deal! I'll be selling some bigwall gear soon...even an A5 double wide! Gettin' a feel for how much some knuckleheads(like me) will pay for climbing gear.
steve
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bigwalling
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 08:59pm PT
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ya I have wanted one of those hammers for a long time... but maybe not if it is going to cost me that MUCH! I have a fair amount of money to just blow... but I'd rather not. HAHA
Muse, if you get outbidded on that one... feel free to outbid me on the last one.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:03pm PT
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Anybody know how much one of those hammers went for retail when Deuce was originally selling them at A5?
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:07pm PT
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if I recall - $89
insane
i won't be the owner of one of those badboys.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:10pm PT
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I wonder if he still has the original die for that hammer head?
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:22pm PT
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Bigwalling,
I think I already did....thought there was three out there? Maybe one has already left the building.
Tommy was lookin' at them for a while and said he really wanted one, so WTF!
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bigwalling
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:26pm PT
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ya, you outbidding me on one of them... I bidded on the last one after that... I went 1 more dollar than my max on the one you are bidding on now. If I win... cool, if not, I don't really care.
Wow, first one went for $161.00!
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:34pm PT
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Holy Crap! $161.03!!
Hmmm...Yeah Werner, maybe he shouldn't have sold that furnace too!
At that price he should start making them again.
And Nature scores the bolt hanger bonanza!
Nature strikes again!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:43pm PT
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and I'm not done.
i wanted the large cams with the bigbro! Ahrrg!
what good would hangers do me w/o bolts?!?!? wow... there was a good run right at the end. damn i want that bigbro! and #5!
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bigwalling
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:49pm PT
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HOLY F*#KING SH#T!!!! 130 for the beaks!
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:52pm PT
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Damn-it,
Didn't get that hammer! Feel bad too...but that was way crazy to pay that much, don't ya know!
Sorry Tommy. I really wanted to give ya that thing, bro!
Your pal,
Steve
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:52pm PT
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i can't do the brassies at that price!
ahhhrrrgg!
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bigwalling
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 09:53pm PT
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Steve you could still try on the one I got going... though I'm thinking we are both f*#ked seeing what the others have gone at.
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:02pm PT
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Wait till you see the crap I have to sell! Gonna buy a hand bike with all the bucks I get..."Welly" would be proud. I just hate to part with the sh#t, but know I can't ever use it again.
Sold all my ice gear to a friend a couple weeks ago. My bikes are going too! Gettin' rid of stuff you used to have great adventures with really sucks, but new toys make it easier to swallow.
That hand bike will give me guns bigger that the Govenator!
Steve
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:04pm PT
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i'm so pissed that I can't hit submit fast enough.
museman - that you at 9174steve as an ebay id?
If anyone bidding on the misc gear is reading this... I just want the Teton in that misc climbing gear auction - pink sling on the right.
tell me what you want if you end up winning! or offer me something right now to not bid! hehe
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2005 - 10:11pm PT
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Pretty wild!
The hammers used to sell for $75, but since then I have had offers for up to $200 (but I never sold one for anything but $75, though I have given many to friends).
The auction is stunning me, but I got a big box of free stuff: something for everyone who buys something!
Thanks everyone.
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bigwalling
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:12pm PT
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well i got the drill... party on... now I have 2 of those!
wanna hook me up with a drill bag john???
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:12pm PT
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These are some crazy ass prices!
Good for Deucey!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:12pm PT
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you got the mold for that hammer? apparently it's worth about the price of gold!
wow!
fifi's up the ying-yang! haha
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:14pm PT
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enough of the junk, bring on the portaledges!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:18pm PT
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Jai Jai Jai Deuce Gosaaee
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2005 - 10:24pm PT
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The hammer mold...
The hammer was made by Ajax Forge, in Los Angeles. Turns out it was the same company that made stuff for Chouinard in the old days (Tom Frost told me so). The die cost about 5 grand, and the hammer heads were about $11 after that. They had about 1.5 hours of machine work (drilling the carabiner hole, milling the front face, grinding the tip) and assembly (including tangs) after that, then of course heat treatment. Cant say we ever made a penny on the hammers (wholesale was $45), but they were a good product. The only other forged hammers comparable were the old Chouinard--all the modern ones are "investment cast" which has a dud feel if you ask me (related to the grain structure of the forging verses casting).
I have often tried to pawn off the die for no charge to any takers, but when it comes down to all the costs involved, it is really a community service project (the old A5 was good as such practices).
I don't even know if Ajax Forge is still in business, or if they could even locate the die. Let me know if anyone wants to try to find it, I guess I still "own" it, but if it could go to someone who could use it, I'd be happy to help with the transfer. The problem is that each forging company has their own proprietary equipment, and the number of forging companies in the US has gone from the 100's in the 1950's to but a handful today (foreign competition as well as the art of forging becomming more "lost").
but I ramble....
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2005 - 10:29pm PT
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By the way, the first ones who pay for their stuff (paypal preferred) will get the best pick of some free stuff thrown in from the "free box", a collection of A5 aiders, daisys, chalk bags, gear slings, as well as some other gear (not A5), like a few chest harnesses and stuff like that.
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:36pm PT
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Paid!
and Ajax Forge Co. is still around.
their website link is dead...
but I called their phone # and their answering machine said.."Ajax Forge Company, blah blah blah..."
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 23, 2005 - 10:55pm PT
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I bet with a good CNC pgm. you could shave the mill time to a few minutes.
Spoonman
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OW
Trad climber
Patagonia
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Mar 23, 2005 - 11:03pm PT
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Holy cow, the stuff I wanted got bid up like a feeding frenzy!
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 23, 2005 - 11:23pm PT
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HeHeHe...
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Mar 23, 2005 - 11:32pm PT
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On a serious note…
Deucey, you should keep rambling. You are THE big wall tech-wizard and a total inspiration. 555 Blackbird Roost – the place of innovation.
Not that I would ever part with them but, I wonder how much I could get on ebay for my collection of A5 catalogs, starting with #1 and including the Big Wall Tech Manual with Xavier Bongard on the cover… Or the JM signature model hammer…
Yeah, we should bust out another run of the A5 hammers. There isn’t a proper wall hammer on the market right now.
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bigwalling
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 11:46pm PT
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minerals what is that hammer you have that has a VERY square head? I really liked the looks that one.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 23, 2005 - 11:59pm PT
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What would a original Chouinard hammer in good condition fetch on eBay?
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:11am PT
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Werner,that was the one Tommy broke on Iron Hawk! the head is still good...just the handle is AFU. Wonder where u could get a handle for it?
steve
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:23am PT
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museman
Ask the Deuce if he has any handles left.
John you there?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:30am PT
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Ajax Forge CO
1956 East 48th Street, Los Angeles, CA 90058
(323) 582-1114
(323) 582-1114 (fax)
P.S. Nature - I have a bunch of duplicate Titons - what size are you looking for...?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:32am PT
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Oh, and I picked up the pin rack and used brass nuts - some of both will probably go back on ebay once I sort it out and fill in the holes in my pin rack and small nuts.
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:36am PT
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Excellent frenzy indeed. I struck out.
And to show good sportsmanship, I hold no hard feelings toward all you rich, lightning-fingered pricks out there.
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2005 - 12:37am PT
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I don't think I have any handles, but the A5 handles were the finest hickory from OP Link handle company, somewhere in the midwest.
I think you can find good hickory handles many places--what you really need is the good tangs. I actually have a single Chouinard tang (you will need two). Let me know if someone needs it to fix an old C hammer. You can use a regular 16 penny nail to secure the tangs to the handle, then peen the ends (leave about 1/8"--use a cut off saw on the 16 penny).
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:39am PT
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healyje, why you sellin' your A5 double ledge?
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:43am PT
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I gota laugh “Titons” useless crap. Kauk told me when they were on Uli Biaho him and Schmitz were throwing those suckers off the wall when Bill Forrest wasn’t looking.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:53am PT
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I don't know about in the valley, but I keep a #8 titon sewn on a 1" shoulder sling and I use it all the time - nothing comes close to it when it's the right thing...
The ledge - cleaning house of a bunch of stuff the past few months, pretty much like John - one of my partners who spends more time in the valley than I has one available for use...
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:56am PT
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I think I'll call Ajax Forging tomorrow and say something like,
Me:"Hi, this is John Middendorf's personal secretary,
and I was calling to check on an open purchase order from
1995 and I am also going to fax over an order for 100 more
of the A5 hammer heads, so could you please check your
old paperwork and find out if the die is still available and
what the lead time would be?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:01am PT
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Link O P Handle CO
403 South Main Street, Salem, IN 47167
(812) 883-2981
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2005 - 01:16am PT
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Shack, let me know how that one goes. I'd actually like to hear about some company taking it on. I gave Conrad's new business incarnation, Ace, all the info and old design notebooks to make the hammers, but as businessmen, possibly already losing money in the process of trying to revive 10year old product lines, I think they thought otherwise.
What you want to do is request a quote for 250, 500, and 1000 hammer heads. That would be the professional way to request the info. They won't want to make just 100, I can tell you right now. There's a lot of set up in forging. Also, you need to spec the material: use 4340 Chrome-moly Steel. That was what the 2nd batch of 250 hammers was made from around 1995. The first 500 hammers (from back in 1987) were made from 4130 steel, which is only about $1 cheaper per head, but that was the same material as the old out-of-production Chouinard big wall hammers, but 4340 is better (in my opinion) as it has a greater range for the subsequent heat treatment. Also you want the heads from Ajax in the un-heat treated condition, so they are easier to machine. After machining, then they need to be sent to heat treatment (more info on that later).
Ajax is unlikely to remember me by name, but if you refer to A5 Adventures, Inc. they might know the company. The hammers and beaks were specifically excluded from the A5 asset sale to TNF in 1997, so technically I still own the hammer rights (but not the trademark, TNF owns that, so you would need to grind off the A5 from the forging if you wanted to sell them).
The forging die itself is pretty cool--two parts, an upper and lower die, there are four separate shape impressions in each part, each impression a progression needed to take a round piece of stock to the final shape. Apparently the operator holds each hammer head stock with tongs as a 50 ton press slams the material repeatedly into one of the impressions in the die. When the operator is satisfied the material is close to the shape of the particular impression, it is moved to the next impression until it is pressed to final shape in the last of the four impressions. Each head takes quite a few slams of the press to progress through this process and take its final shape. Very labor intensive.
well, it's late. thanks everyone for your interest in my old gear. I'll be shipping out a bunch tomorrow...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:40am PT
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John,
Personally, I'd really like to the beaks back in production - they are great and am surprised no one has picked them up.
In the software world there is a notion of "open source" where the software is free and the users contribute to it's evolution and maintenance. Lots of software gets "open sourced" by companies for a variety of reasons. By coincidence the name of the main repository is "SourceForge" - sounds like we need the climbing equivalent; a real open source forge.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:43am PT
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Quiz; who really invented the bird beak. This one is hard.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:48am PT
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I thought it was Bridwell cutting off half of Crack 'N Ups (John just sold one of them...) - sacreligious really; only to be forgiven because of the advent of the beak...
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:48am PT
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Nope
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:50am PT
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Enlighten us oh sage one...!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:52am PT
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I no sage. It was Gene Foley who originaly made one years before the crackn ups. He showed it to us and Bridwell saw it too.
Gene suggested then it might be a tool to replace the rurp in some placements. But he never made any more than the one or two originals. When the crackn ups came out now they were available all you had to do was cut off one side. Bridwell saw it immediately from the original idea that Gene had developed earlier. Then later they were specifically manufactured for that application under the bird beak name.
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2005 - 01:58am PT
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One last note--unlike the hammer, manufacturing the beaks couldn't be simpler--Go to Thomas register, send a request for quote to 30 stamping companies with a blueprint of the shape and material spec(4130 steel is good choice), and wait for quotes, which will range from 50 cents to probably 5 dollars per (has to do with the companies willingness to do biz with a start up as well as the quantities requested).
then, mill off the taper. Then heat treat and when they come back, swage em. We probably did make some money on the beaks back in the day.
A milling machine would be nice for the taper, but you could probably grind them instead, and the whole process could be done in a garage with a few hundred dollars startup cost.
Let me know if anyone is interested in this, I could look up the heat treat specs. (I just hardness tested a Chouinard KB and used the same spec--I think it was RC 41/43 or so, maybe a little harder, not much).
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 24, 2005 - 02:04am PT
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Hey John did you just buy a milling machine?
And; I've posted a lot today, I think the loser police are going to get my ass. I think they may be at the door.
I better run before it's too late ..... where to run to????
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 04:01am PT
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Yeah, what's up with those? A Bridgeport milling machine, a foundry furnace, and a dynamometer...? Looks suspiciously like someone suddenly capable of making innovative, high quality climbing gear in his garage - obviously doing a lot of thinking along with all that paddling...
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CtGunker
Trad climber
New Canaan, Ct
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Mar 24, 2005 - 08:58am PT
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Hey Werner, You think you're a loser? I just bid $160 for a hammer that I will never use and LOST!!!! LOL.
I did end up with the stoppers and mashies, though. Not sure what I'm going to mash them with? What I REALLY wanted was the Teton though. Scary Larry swears by them. I, on the other hand, swear AT them.
Fortunately I also lost out on the pins at the last minute. Not sure what I would have done with those either!!!
Lost of fun.
YO - ha ha ha!!! I can't wait til April - REVENGE will be mine! $5 gasoline will seem cheap by the time I get done with those haul bags!!!
Boy am I a loser...
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Mar 24, 2005 - 09:21am PT
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Holy crapola John...
Those auctions are off the frickin' edge!!! But good for you. After I got sniped on the bongs, I figured I might as well shoot the moon on the hammer. It's one of the only ones I don't have. In the four years and change I've been watching Ebay for gear, these are the first A5 hammers I've seen pop up. Testament to a good product, I guess. Lots of interest in old climbing gear lately. Driving the prices insane. The really crazy auctions have been for old Coonyard-Frost wooden-handled ice axes. Some have run nearly $300!!
Werner - old Chouinard clubs have been running in the $80 range and up or so on Ebay. Some pushing into the $100 range every once in a while. Surprisingly, some of the originals have actually shown up, but mostly see the old crag hammer styles with the long curved tip.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Mar 24, 2005 - 09:28am PT
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WOW Museman what a pal. I got home last night had a quick look at Ebay to see that the hammers were out of my price range at 152 bucks and just clicked out of there. You are a true buddy for trying to get me one of those wall clubs.
I am with you Minerals, there isn't a hammer out there that compared to the A5. I am sorry I never got one when they were available. I still have some of those original catologs with photos of Jim Erdman, Jimmy Gaun, and Barry Ward in them. I read my big wall manuel every couple of years wether I need to or not.
Shack I would love to see another small run of those hammers for the people that will appreciate and use them. If you do get something going let me know.
John that was interesting and killer beta on the manufacturing of the hammer. It just goes to show your passion for our sport, because you sure were not getting rich off the hammers. Thanks!!
T2
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Festus
Mountain climber
Antelope Valley
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Mar 24, 2005 - 09:52am PT
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Hey, Nature, that was me as 9174steve...and completely shut out on all fronts!
Damn, I really wanted some of that stuff, but turns out I was just a bad pimp--and got my ass run off the street corner when the big boys showed up. Well, at least none of 'em took a hammer to me!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 24, 2005 - 10:32am PT
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you are not the only one that got pimp-slapped when the bigger hammer weilding pimps came out to play. I just couldn't bring myself to commiting to that bidding war. Contrats to the folks that now own a wall club!
I did win the hangers and the bolts as well as the misc stuff with the 583 fifi hooks. I really wanted the cam extractor too.
I'm willing to trade some items if interested.
Items I didn't win.
The big gear - I needed a #5 BD bad the other day and I wanted that bigbro.
The small gear - seemed like a steal for 20 used brassies.
The lot of a dozen or so medium sized cams. If I saw it right that added up to about $14 per cam unit. I was too slow.
The bidding went up so fast on those items i couldn't hit submit fast enough before the auction closed. Better for my pocketbook I suppose.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 11:36am PT
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Shack - did you call Ajax? I'd be happy to if you haven't - we should get the ball rolling on that front...I'll call OP Link Handle and figure out the handles...
CtGunker - I've got a #7 Titon for you (Nature just got the #8 and #10) - we can work something out I suspect...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 11:43am PT
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John,
Do you recall what stamping company you used last time for the beaks? Wouldn't know anyone with a milling machine would you...?
Oh, and specs on the tangs...?
O.K. folks - who's willing to join the climbing community's first open source project (maybe we should call the hammers JM5's or the Deuce5's)? 250 hammers sounds like the minimum order, I'll take 2 - that's 248 to go...
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 24, 2005 - 12:29pm PT
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Somehow I doublt we'll get the GNU license but oh well... copyleft is copyleft.
Unless they go for that ungodly amount some folks paid last night you can more than likely count me in on one.
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2005 - 12:30pm PT
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WLS Stamping comes to mind--somewhere midwest?
They should have the die. I think the blanks were about 60 cents each. FInish work includes reaming the cable hole (pre-stamped), milling the taper, and sending to heat treatment.
cheers
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2005 - 12:31pm PT
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Tangs for the A5 hammer were simply stainless strips, cut to length, thn pounded over in a vice to get the right angle.
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:27pm PT
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Deuce, using a nail instead of making a couple tangs is Mexican, but works good in a pinche...
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:41pm PT
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Haha!
How many names have we been called this week?
Rookie, Loser, lightweight, pervert, dumbass and bitch.
Not a bad run.
Actually, I do know that a few folks are rookies to ebay.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley
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Mar 24, 2005 - 01:49pm PT
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Hey Werner -- judging by the extraordinary bidding on those items,
and the stratospheric prices they fetched, Hardman Knott Productions
felt that your money-animation was in dire need of a speed adjustment:
© copywrong 2004 Hardman Knott Productions
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2005 - 06:54pm PT
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Got quote from Ajax, quotes coming for handles and beaks...
Will keep you all advised.
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 24, 2005 - 09:04pm PT
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That's cool! Sounds like your trying to go non-profit, is that true?
Steve
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 24, 2005 - 09:06pm PT
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Healyje,
That's cool! Sounds like your trying to go non-profit, is that true?
Steve
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 25, 2005 - 04:09am PT
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I don't know that yet that that would be the formal organziation form at this point - but the discussions so far have had the intent not be to accrue profits. Past giving John a bit of each hammer the rest would get donated...
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deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2005 - 08:08pm PT
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Thank you everyone for making the big wall gear auction a big success. Hope everyone finds the gear useful or at least, (folks like Marty the collector) something worth pointing the eyeballs at.
Most of the orders have been shipped, so they should come this week (apologies for the two unshipped orders of folks I don't know personally--still awaiting payment confirmation, will ship ASAP mid April when I return from the GC.)
Stay tuned later in April for a bunch of portaledges, haulbags, a few more hardware lots, and some funky prototype and production soft goods.
Cheers
JM
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 10, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
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Ahh haha! WBraun Mar 23, 2005 - 06:10pm PT
I wonder if he still has the original die for that hammer head?
Looks like we can blame Werner for nudging the ball into motion, but it certainly got grabbed and ran with. 6 years in the making to get the D5 hammers out. Mine are "in the mail" today, as they say.
Thank you all so much!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jan 10, 2011 - 03:06pm PT
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Stay tuned later in April for a bunch of portaledges, haulbags, a few more hardware lots, and some funky prototype and production soft goods
what? there's still more? ;)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 10, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
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Ha, this is when the D5 project all started, during Deuce's ebay auctions. I scored a bunch of the spare pins back then most of which now all reside at Beacon Rock as replacements pins after doing pin and anchor maintenance on the place back in 2005-7.
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