Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 86 of total 86 in this topic |
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2008 - 01:47am PT
|
notch peak
and yeah, just about blew a gasket.
such a huge pile!
so much desert choss!
luckily I found something close to home recently.
can't wait to get back out there.
the choss scares you at first, the it starts to intrigue you.
The possibilities, the sheer 'that's f*#king crazy' factor.
Post yer choss please!! Come on, give it up!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2008 - 01:52am PT
|
for completeness of cross posting...
Think BIG choss
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
You want big choss? Here's 2500 feet of it! (5.11-X, go get the 2nd ascent!)
My partner 21 pitches into the cruddy, fractal gneiss:
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Hey Munge, fellow choss-man:
The thing about crappy-rock adventures is this: there are trips that you never fully come back from.
|
|
Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
|
|
No sudden moves.
Even weight distribution.
3 holds at all times.
Never look down.
Ever see a chunk of sandstone cut loose for no good reason?
I have not, but a guy at work has, does that count?
Stay out of El Cañón de Diablo, ya here?
People go in there, and they don't come out.
Those Hoo Doo Night Stalkers are even worse.
And don't forget Big Ray, I fed him some Kibbles and Bits last week.
He is probably hungry by now.
|
|
dolomite_said
Boulder climber
|
|
Can you link to a higher rez file of that first phote ? Looks sick .
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Good stuff Mr. E
Routes like those above require excellent climbing skills.
|
|
L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
|
|
"The thing about crappy-rock adventures is this: there are trips that you never fully come back from."
That is a great quote, Erik.
|
|
dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
|
|
Choss is good for you.
Choss builds character.
And always remember, as long as you have good choss, you ALWAYS have something to drop on an uncooperative belayer.
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
hey there mungeclimber.... wow, great rock! ... i know, i know, not for climbing... :)
say, great pics you guys....
you know, such a cool, neat looking rock, just begging to be climbed, and what do you know-----as you call it: choss rock...
say, i would highly think, too, (as werner said? if i remember this post correctly) that this would be requireing good climbing skills...
course----i have a question:
would it be an odd test, though, meaning a complex one?
1--first, i mean, you can have great skills, but wouldnt you have to have some skill, too, as to the choss rock, so that you can work such skills into tackling another such choss rock (if you truly deem it safe enough to do so)?
2--and also, would it be better, if one did tackly this unstable stuff, if they were more familiar with THIS than with other type of rock (or would all kinds of rock-skill-variation come in handy for these "monsters of sort"?
i was just wondering is all... it sure is, though, a test for a climber.... (i reckon some climbers enjoy trying to work it out, and some may not---depends on what kind of an adventure that one is one, or seeking for that day, right??
thanks for more shares on this.... as... i love looking at these rocks... and through all you guys i have learned how unstable and tricky and at times, how undesireable they are...
god bless to all, as you tackle any climb... these or not... and thanks for shareing you insight, and pictures
**say, ps:
do you find any more bird nest, snakes, lizzards, spiders, or odd variety of critters on these rocks, as compared to others??
edit for dirt: ... wow, yep, i could see that it'd build character, too... (out with any "disgruntles" and in with the "determination-factor")...
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Neebee: deem it safe to do so? It is a giving up of sorts...a reckless willingness to give yourself to the elements, based on a synergy of experience, creativity, delicacy and dedication to upward movement in the face of horrifying rock quality.
As my partner Mike Layton said: A falling upwards
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
We pounded pins into layers of "rock".....dirt came out of cracks 6 feet away.....(Long Dong Silver, near Hanksville, Utah...)
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
"Hanging curtains of mud." Sundevil Chimney, Fishers.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
"Pitons shifting out of cracks like candles melting in the hot sun." 12" galvinized Home Depot nails hammered into dirt for rap anchors. Pope, Round Rock, Ariz.
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Yeah, Boyee! Now we gots some sugar!
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
" You could plant a garden on the summit ." Chinle, Spire, Round Rock, Ariz.
A pitch and a half of holes drilled, with pitons, hardware store junk, and unknown pieces of " metal stuff" pounded in the holes.....
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
We used an ice climbing warthog pounded in dirt as part of the summit anchor. The Pickle, Arches.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Rap anchors that consisted of 2 star driven aluminium bolts, drilled by Layton Kor, 50 years ago, in soft sandstone...Rap from 3 feet tall "tree" on summit...Spyder Rock, Chinle, Ariz.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Summit Ridge was gargoyles of mud. Greig Arch, Cove, New Mex.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Stacked pins bottomed out after 1 1/2 inches....long bolt ladders of 1/4" bolts which wiggle in the holes when you stand on them.....Artist Tears, Moab, Utah.
|
|
Ricardo Cabeza
climber
Meyers,CA
|
|
But Mungie, do you know what lies beneath that scary stuff?...
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Anasazi steps carved 800 years ago , followed by a loose dirty chimney lead to a summit anchor of drilled holes with 3' rebar sticking out of the rock to tie off and rap from. rond Rock, Ariz.
Here's the "bombproof" anchor
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Why hasn't this fallen over? Ancient Arts, Fishers
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Hammering pitons in holes, where, after 2 hits, the pins hit the back of the holes, and come flying out, and you try to catch them before they fall into the abyss....Multi-hour leads crawling up pitches while people take turns belaying, as the belayers sleep and fry in the hot desert sun. The Bride, Moab, Utah.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Handhold broke near the top, hitting me in the face, and filling my mouth with dirt...... Argon Tower, Arches
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Pieces of wood stacked with cams, and a 2 by 4 hammered in a wide section to stand on. Totem Pole, Mon. Valley, Utah/Ariz border. Bolt ladder with top 2 bolts missing.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Locals use the rap anchors for target practice...bullet holes through rap rings. Chinle Hospital Crags, Chinle, Ariz.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Looked so chossy, even I wouldn't climb it....and I LOVE choss;....this one looked like a 400' vertical sandbox. Whale's Tail, Rock Point, Ariz.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
The Gendarme fell over and slide down the notch. Seneca Rock, W. Virginia.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Ladders of copperheads hammered in drilled holes. Goof Proof Roof, J. Tree.
|
|
coldstonesoup
Mountain climber
outside the taco stand
|
|
Cool photos Todd, have any of your brothers been killed in Iraq this week?
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Coldstone;.....thanks for the thumbs up on the pics. Living near the 29 Palms Marine Corp Base (Largest Marine Base on the planet), there are always alot of soldiers coming and going, and many of the teachers I work with are Marine wifes (toughest job in the Marines; Marine wife). Lots of wierd, wild, scary, and sad stories coming from this bunch. I have alot of Marine friends that climb and have been over to Iraq one, two, and tree times......one messed up place. I hope and pray this is over someday;...the sooner the better......send the soldiers all home, and teach them all to climb choss.......
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Pins hammered in shallow drilled holes, pin scars so big you can see them from Sky Lab in space. Zenyatta Entrada, Arches
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
The first 8 pitches (20 total), every cam placement had to be dug out of dirt filled cracks...there was some vertical grass pitches too. New route, Pakistan
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
50 to 100 holes drilled in this volcanic plug.....some have bolts, some are just holes;....you can put your finger in some and free climb past, you can use hooks to aid, or bang in pins and use aiders, or just use the pins as handholds and footholds.
Steins Pillar, Central Oregon
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2008 - 03:54am PT
|
nice B, looks graniticus
Todd, solid! thx for the keeping this going while I was at a wedding
Steins are so intriguing! The Chinle stuff just looks straight up scary, but it looks way big.
The whale tail formation, if I have that right... has it subsequently been climbed?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2008 - 04:08am PT
|
choss or not?
stolen from Chriz shots
|
|
rick d
climber
tucson, az
|
|
todd-
While both of us have a high respect for desert sandstone, there are limestone,volcanic,and simply rotten walls that swoop virtually all forms of desert rock. Remember, the deeper red the more iron and therefore sounder rock. We need that crap white stuff (Great White Throne sugar!). For short choss, we should examine crap like to towers on the way to Yellowstone west of Cody, WY where the wind blowing the razor crystals is an objective hazard. Hell, I'd even include Paul Ross' Grand Junction "towers". Consider all the crap you skipped on the res from the mighty Agathala and all the other plugs. Many have wandered onto Shiprock to summit, but few venture beyond the trade route.
Limestone, ala Canadian Rockies & Glacier etc. really gets loose- far worse than the minor pegmatite one sees in the Black. Ice cubes of BS with birdshit and shale cement, mmmmmm yummy. A.2 there will kill you.
I've just got to say that I have graduated from El Cap where hard pitches are easy relative to choss. So you get less vertical feet- each foot gained is equal to 50' of granite.
All hail slag!
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
rick d......that stuff Paul Ross has climbed...those skinny little dribbles by Grand Junction.....they look so cool;.....he is truly a choss MASTER......I want to go do a few of them SO BADLY.........(which shows what floats my boat;....it's a bit embarrassing.....).....I travel all over the planet to climb crappy rock.......grovel on....
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 11:51am PT
|
More choss, more choss, more choss;
Venus Needle(New Mex.)...again;...50 year old bolt ladder to summit with bolts wiggling in their drilled holes.....
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
|
AS I grabbed a wad of slings on the summit anchor to pull myself on to the tiny summit, one of the three summit anchor pieces pulled out of the soft rock.
Cleopatra's Needle, N.Mex.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
|
Sections of the crack were too wide and chossy for any of our pieces to aid off of, and too rotten, dirty, and difficult to free climb, so Brian drilled small bathook holes to get past a couple of difficult sections.....this wide crack went on for pitch after pitch.
Arachnid Mesa, Ariz.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 07:11pm PT
|
On one of the raps down, one of our 4 ropes got wedged behind a sharp flake; in order to retrieve the rope, one of us would have to re-lead the crux A3 section; nobody volunteered, so we all chipped in $30.00 and got Brian a new rope. All the pitches took forever;...one pitch took over 30 tcu's. The rest of the raps went without incident.
Los Gigantos, Ariz.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 07:16pm PT
|
The anchor was in a giant boulder that wasn't attatched to the formation. Tony got the haul line and rigged the boulder to the formation so the whole anchor wouldn't slide off the formation.
Speak no Evil, 3 Gossips, Arches.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 07:22pm PT
|
The rock was lumpy and funny;...there were a few spots where you could see right through the formation to the other side.
Rock Pt. Spire, Ariz.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
|
As I touched the fridge size rock, to fell off it's pedistal, rolled over my foot, then was airborne, smashing against the wall on the way down, breaking into many large pieces, some which landing on my truck parked below. I thought my foot was gone.
The Whale, Rock Pt. Ariz.
|
|
pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
|
Damn Todd, you get it DONE!!! Sweet pictures......
|
|
klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
|
The Eiger of the Sierra
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
|
The traversing pitch was picking your way through rubble....and the rappels sent softball size rocks coming down.....
Washer Woman, Canyonlands, Utah.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 10:08pm PT
|
Pitch one Dave removed 5 or 6 pins I put in without using his hammer.
Sheep Rock, Arches, Utah
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 10:11pm PT
|
The picture says it all on this one...George Armstrong wallowing through it.
|
|
Double D
climber
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2008 - 10:51pm PT
|
And the judges votes are in: Todd Gordon claims the gold for overall Choss Master!
Man I was rubing the sand outta my hair on that read!
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 12:20am PT
|
1/4 in. bolts in a bolt ladder that is missing it's hangers.....Up higher, chucks of metal hammered in cracks....but no eye to clip......they looked like the legs of a bed or something....
Vanishing Angel, Moab, Utah
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 12:22am PT
|
The infamous "kitty litter" pitch, Standing Rock, Canyonlands, Utah.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 12:40am PT
|
Peshastan Pinnicles;....been there?....then you already know.....
Central Washington
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 01:20am PT
|
Jesus, Todd. I'm getting sand in my eyeballs just reading this thread!
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 01:22am PT
|
The lesser known parts of Smith Rock are awesome for the aspiring chossaneer!
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:09am PT
|
Cardinal Pinnicle; A few good pitches surrounded by loose blocks, miles of scree, debris covered ledges, and dirt.
Bishop , Cal.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:11am PT
|
Raped by the United States Army. Mt. Yonah, Georgia
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:15am PT
|
I don't think one piece I placed on the whole climb who have held even a short fall. Cyndie "surfed" a loveseat sized block off the arch while following the pitch. I placed 7 pitons in crap rock for the rap anchor, and it was still marginal...and expensive. Some of the worst rock I've ever climbed on.....(It was FUN!)
Edna's Arch (AKA Rattlesnake Arch) Buzzworm Chinle, Ariz.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:21am PT
|
I kncoked the top 4 feet of the summit off before I lassoed the top with an old section of rope for a rap anchor. Dead Horse Spire, Chinle, Ariz.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 02:24am PT
|
Chossaneering!!! such a great word!
Thx for the link Shaft. Way huge trippy looking formation.
Todd again firing the superb Gatling Gun Photo Barrage (correct spelling here Ron o?)
You guys gotta come climb some choss on Sonora or Ebbett's Pass. you'll love it.
was digging on line for choss... found this... too large to embed...
http://photositesag.org/2-7-07/cliff%20canyon.jpg
|
|
GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:26am PT
|
I'm buying TG a broom.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:27am PT
|
Took me hours to led this climb;...and it's only about 1/2 of a pitch.......funky climbing on funky rock. The formation has in odd shape....reminds me of something;...just can't think of it now......
The Phallus, Arches, Utah.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:34am PT
|
You think Joshua Tree is grainy?...try Christmas Tree Pass, Nev.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:37am PT
|
Chick Dead, Dog Killed It, Little Egypt, Bishop. Climbing was fun...but the 1-2 inches of moss on the upper pitches was funk.....(Funk means fun......). Climber; Russ "Ironman" Walling.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 02:40am PT
|
The Hand, Phoenix, Ariz. That rock was a bit loose;...I've seen way worst, but some of the holds were rattling about;......which makes the climbing all the more fun. My wife, Andrea in the pic......before the stork brought us 3 babies...
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 10:15am PT
|
Get a car jack and tip it over; This is listed as a " climb" in Bjornstad's guidebook;......really......
Castle Valley, Moab.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 10:18am PT
|
Clipped an aider into one of the bolts, and the bolt came out......
Mexican Hat, Utah
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 10:21am PT
|
Put a cam under a roof;...the roof came off....I feel into a chimney and the fall was stopped when I got wedged into the chimney.....(Dana "Pappy" Adler on the summit.
Candelabra, Arches, Utah
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 01:34pm PT
|
This climb is just how Locker likes his women; Loose, dirty, and wide.
New route on backside of Penguins, Arches.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
|
That little formation right of the Kinfisher (Tooktoolong).....pounding pitons straight into dirt for freeclimbing moves.....pitons in drilled holes sticking more than half way out.......
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
|
that thing next to the kingfishe looks like it's going to topple, FOR REALZ!
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
|
New Jack City (My wife, Andrea) Fairly chossy rock, licked clean by the L.A. sportos.....
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
|
Climbing through 500 lbs. of batsh#t.
Seraph, Moab, Utah
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
|
well, look at this thread.
|
|
David C
Trad climber
UK
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2015 - 01:42pm PT
|
Something with a bit of grass on it as well and a nice sea view (Scotland, 300m high):
|
|
coolrockclimberguy69
climber
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
|
Choss is relative.
You gotta bang some hoodrats to in order to appreciate the good ones.
Can't have Eternal Flame without that unnamed bolted roadcut.
Pull down, not out. Live long and prosper.
|
|
dave729
Trad climber
Western America
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2015 - 03:41pm PT
|
Heavenly choss.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2015 - 05:00pm PT
|
I love this thread for the scare factor,
imagine the adrenaline falling back down the chimney!!
Pulling out every trick in the book as if it were nothing!
And my newest fan, my buckaroo hero of the wide and the maker of the Atom Smasher !!
the best pack I have ever bought,so tuff it is the last one I or my children will ever need,
I had lent it to the USA Shrade knife maker, both he and the company, rest in peace,
given away, I had to 'fight' to get it back.
one place that tells what and where one of the best badazez I have ever met has sent proud
Lines ! ( please don't delete cause of this big butt kiss)
I never knew he held such a seat at the choss table, for a teacher this/that is amazing
is amazing!!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2017 - 10:43pm PT
|
I miss the choss.
Pull down, not out.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2019 - 07:42pm PT
|
Nah000 visibility, link over, click and bump!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 86 of total 86 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!