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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 4, 2008 - 02:06pm PT
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Hey - I just found this video on You Tube, thanks to the big wall tip from Doug Soderstrom aka Scout 2.
Chris Falkenstein made this video in the spring of '99 - he had to rappel about six hundred feet from the summit. Helluva thing when a video camera drops in on your solar-powered shower in your portaledge - sheesh. You'll find everything from a Rope Ratchet [what I used before adjustable daisies became the norm], an impressive Chuck Heston imitation, and even a few bars from Gilbert & Sullivan. Don't suppose you could upload my rendition of "I've Got the Big Wall Blues", could you Chris? Nice job on the video, thanks! Bits and pieces of Chris' work made it onto the front cover of Yates Gear's catalogue one year, and onto Don Reid's aid climbing video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IgM_8mcSA4&feature=relate
The video is ten minutes long, so grab your coffee or beer [depending on whether it is before or after Changeover Time]. I didn't realize his camera could pick up my commentary so well, so you might want to turn the volume down a bit, eh?
Cheers,
Pete
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Pretty fun! What pitch and what route (duh edit, Native son)?
Prod.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 02:37pm PT
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Native Son, the Golden Nipple pitch up near the top, just before it traverses into the Trip. Fun hooking! I think it's an old school A4 pitch on the topo, though it didn't seem too hard. Then again, the camera was watching, so you don't want to look too scared.....
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Nice.
Now how about a TR of BUBS?!
Ed
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Damn...that's some funny sh#t. Nice commentary PTPP.
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ricardo-sf
Sport climber
San Francisco
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"yosemitephotos" has some good vids on his utube profile! .. there is some nice YOSAR videos from when they rescued some guy who fell and got tangled on his lead lines -- seems to be over by Zenyatta Mondatta ..
.. anyone know when this rescue happened? --
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Sh#t - I would pay like $30 dollars for all of Pete's tricks on DVD.
Please Pete?
Juan
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Nice Pete!
Way funny,
What the f*#ks a “rope ratchet”? looks cool though
What happened next???
keep it up you’re quite a character. (eh?)
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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"yosemitephotos" has some good vids on his utube profile! .. there is some nice YOSAR videos from when they rescued some guy who fell and got tangled on his lead lines -- seems to be over by Zenyatta Mondatta ..
.. anyone know when this rescue happened? --
From YouTube:
Part 1, Rock Climbing Rescue, El Capitan. A drunk climber has fallen and is only being held by the rope around his leg. This is around 10am and the Yosemite rescue team risks their life to save him. They did not know how well the rope was anchored by the drunk climber when the rescuer jumared up.
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Looks interesting. Brave guy, that rescuer.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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That rescue was a great watch. Cheers to Yosar!
Prod.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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PTPP - You're a nut!
Rope ratchet.. Hooks.. Mentions of Chongo....
Oh, that's right.. You've been up the three-hundred-how many days????
thanks for sharing some of your craft.. Make me almost want to get out there and learn it....
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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who was that in the Iron Hawk video? Cool stuff.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Ah, I see it is none other than Chris McNamera and Jeff.
Did you guys notice that the blue gear sling resembles suspenders, thus effectively turning his whole outfit into Super Mario?
Check halfway thru vid 4. Oooh yeah. That's style.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Pete, It quits just when it gets good...effing hilarious. You Rock.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
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Hey, thanks guys for your kind comments!
Ed - I'll have to get to work on BUBS. I'm the one with all the photos, so, you know....
Riley - yeah, Thad Friday followed me up. He was one pitch below when Chris shot the video.
Graham - here's the rope ratchet.
http://www.roperatchet.com/
It's what I used to use before adjustable daisies were invented. The 1/4" size is the most practicable for aid climbing. The 3/8" is too big and klunky, and anything smaller isn't strong enough. It's only rated to 150 lbs, so be gentle, especially when bounce testing - don't use it!
Jingy - yeah, I'm a bit twisted. I believe my count is 360 nights on El Cap, not counting base or summit bivis. I gotta check my notes for the exact number.
That video of the rescue of the drunk guy off of Zed-Em is hilarious! Definitely worth watching.
Cheers and beers,
Pete
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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nice vid Pete and funny comentary. funny how it starts with you naked taking a shower...glad Chris wasn't any closer!
that rescue is nuts. I heard that story once and thought it was just BS..."BE A WARRIOR!" hahaaha
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
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Thanks, Matt. Chris Falkenstein went to a HUGE effort to drag six hundred feet of rope to the summit and rap off. It's not every day you get someone to take photos and video of you soloing on the big stone - what a privelege.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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PTPP - DUDE!!! YOU ARE NOT HANGING OFF THAT THING!!! ARE YOU!!!!?
Looks flimsy! I think you said 150 limit... NO WAY!!!
360 nights... You should easily take that personal goal I heard you talking about at the bridge!!!!
Still.. Cool video
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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... What an opportunity to be climbing with impunity....
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jingy,
Pete isn't really hanging off that thing for safety, it's just to hoist him up and pre-tension hooks on traversing moves. You'll notice he aslo has standard daisies and a Kong adjustable fifi...so he's actually conected theoretically with 4 points at once....plus the rope.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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... if you call hanging on a hook "connected."
The Rope Ratchet is now replaced with adjustable daisies to give the 2:1 mechanical advantage [less friction through the buckle or Ratchet] when pulling yourself up. The adjustable fifi is for "fine tuning" your position in your aiders, so you can more easily top-step. You can stick it in your piece, get into your top-steps, then cinch it to the correct tension.
That was a really fun pitch with hooking and penjis between rivets. Native Son is a superb route that really ought to get climbed more often. On the left side of the Golden Finger of Fate is the hardest damn C1 pitch you will ever lead!
Doesn't Russ have a Native Son trip report on his Fish website?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Isn't that the TR that he almost died on due to a storm?
BAD AZZSS pic of the boob goggles!
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Did Chongo ever write a book on Big Wall?
Juan
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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what happened to Chongo? I thought he was writing a book on Big Wall?
Lost Arrow
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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"Did Chongo ever write a book on Big Wall?"
Oh, sweet mercy...hell yes, he did. It weighs about 15 lbs and is thicker than the Sacramento phone book. More info here:
http://www.chongonation.com/
Ed
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Aug 26, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
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Bump as I need to learn this stuff again
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hafilax
Trad climber
East Van
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Aug 27, 2008 - 01:47am PT
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Gooo loo koo koo koo koo koo koooooo
Felt like I was watching a big wall episode of The Great White North.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 27, 2008 - 03:04am PT
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I'm watching it without sound, even though I have speakers, is that cool or what?
It's still good, in a weird way, i need a brain implant.
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Scout 2
Trad climber
Placerville
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Aug 27, 2008 - 06:07am PT
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Hey pete
looks like you opened a can of video worms with this tread.
looks like I'll be able to help you shlepp some gear. Im off those days.
see ya in a few weeks
Doug
Hey chris ... has to have more than 10 min of video for all that work??
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
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Woo-hoo! See you on the bridge for beers!
Yosemite soon come!
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:54pm PT
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I saw Commander Burk the morning after that rescue in his trailer at the Lodge.
He told me that nobody on SAR wanted to go near that rope, let alone jug, lower the victim, and rap from it.
Scotty (who's nuts already) told my wife and I he was shittin' bricks. The perpetually-caffeinated Scotty brewed us up some oil, snapped the filter off one of my Camels, and recounted the events of the previous day.
There's really no such thing as a routine rescue, he told us.
Then, brimming with pride, he showed us a copy of the tape of the rescue.
Scotty may have more stoke per square inch than anyone I've ever met.
Scotty doesn't drink anything but coffee as far as I can tell, and he said the guy smelled "like an earthquake at the liquor store"!!!
Nice video, Pete.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Aug 27, 2008 - 01:54pm PT
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Pete,
Who makes the adjustable daisy chains you use?
Thanks
Jeff
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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I used to use Metolius, which use a D-ring configuration that never slips. They are harder to operate, and they are purposely made "weak" so I no longer use them.
I use the buckle style made by both Fish and Yates - they use a burly Ancra buckle that holds well.
I prefer Yates adjustable daisies to Fish's because Russ has one design flaw - the clip-in point that you girth-hitch to your harness [or belay loop] is too "long", meaning that it is over-stitched. What this means is that you cannot cinch the adjustable daisy up tight to the buckle because the stitching can't pass through the buckle, and you end up hanging two or three inches too short. This sew-in point should me made smaller so you can pull up tight - every inch counts.
Russ has an advantage over John Yates in that you can also buy just the webbing strap, which becomes worn over time. Yates says you should get about 70 pitches leading before the webbing gets worn, the buckle starts to slip, and you have to replace the adjustable daisy. I don't get that many pitches because I spend a lot of time big wall camping, and crawling over belay anchors and stuff. Anyway, when the webbing wears out, Russ supplies the webbing replacement only. The buckle will last much longer.
At any rate, the things aren't expensive to replace, and you should always be using ones that are "fresh" enough so that the buckles don't slip at all.
The video was made in '99 and pre-dates adjustable daisies, and I am using the 1/4" Rope Ratchet made by Carolina North, which works OK, but not as well as adjustable daisies. Plus the Rope Ratchet isn't very strong.
When are you coming down to the bridge?
And why do you use two user names on McTopo?
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Aug 27, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
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Nice video Pete. I've learnt tons from your posts.
Cheers,
Doug
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ricardo-sf
Sport climber
San Francisco
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Aug 27, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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yes .. i guess pete knows all about the limited strength of Metolious adjustables ..
:-) ..
I stil use the adj. metolious .. i replace them when they get faded and fuzzed out ..
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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Ouch, um, yeah.
Now you DO backup those light-duty Metolius adjustables with a regular daisy when you are using them to secure your life, like when crawling around on a belay anchor unroped, as opposed to lifting yourself up while climbing, right?
Cuz you do a factor 2 on one of them cuz you make a mistake - or most any adjustable - and it's gonna break.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Aug 27, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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I Thought that was the big advantage of the adjustable diasy, yarding oneself up? Am I wrong?
Juan
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Aug 27, 2008 - 10:50pm PT
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bump
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2008 - 09:47am PT
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Yes, an adjustable daisy serves two purposes. Like a regular daisy, it attaches you to your aiders and your piece for a point of attachment, and so you don't drop your aiders. But the buckle allows you to yard yourself up using a 2:1 mechanical advantage less the friction of the webbing through the buckle.
Try it and you'll see - pull the free end of the webbing as you stand up in your aiders, and see how much easier it is than having to climb up your aiders without the adjustable daisy's help. You can also make your own adjustable daisy with a piece of cord and a Ropeman, although I have never tried this. I am unfamiliar with a Ropemean, and don't know if you have to incorporate a pulley into the system or not.
I also use an adjustable fifi hook to fine-tune my top-stepping. I did have that in the video, although the adjustable daisies are not there.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 29, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
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Pete bump....
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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
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