Discussion Topic |
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Towshab
climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 4, 2005 - 04:14pm PT
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The first AMAZING corner I did was Course and Buggy out at JT. Now I'm addicted and was wandering what everyone else's favorite corners are.
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smidogg
Trad climber
berkeley
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Hospital Corner
Lovers Leap, CA
One of the best corners I have ever done
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Donny... the OHHH!- Riginal
Sport climber
Boald'r Effin See Oh
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Man....you remember Clinton Corners?..from Carter Country?...man that was awesome. I laughed my ass off.
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bwancy1
Trad climber
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Corrugation Corner - Lovers Leap
Hobbit Book - Tuolumne
World Class....
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Oz is a corner, right? The parts of it that are gets my vote (even if James did go f*#k it up ;-)
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Mungeclimber
Social climber
N. California
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Great White Book, TM
Haven't done it, but Enduro on Astroman has got to be in top 5
El Matador on DT, haven't done it either.
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA
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Enduro Corner- amazing
Hospital Corner-killer
Coarse and Buggy- thin! took a nice whipper off the crux, undercling, pulled 2 pieces!
OZ-whole route is killer, especially that corner pitch
Sunshine dihedral at Smith Rocks looks really cool
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Good Book (Shame that it's dicey now with rockfall danger)
Moratorium
OZ
Bircheff-Williams first pitch
Course and Buggy
Peace
Karl
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA
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yeh moritorium! forgot that one. havent done the rostrum yet, but moritorium is my favorite route in the valley.
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Good Morning!
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Devils Tower abounds with fabulous 'corners'. My favorites:
Soler 5.9
Mr. Clean 5.11a
El Mat 5.10d
Assemblyline 5.9
McCarthy West 5.10c (?)
Waylaid 5.11a
Hollywood and Vine .10
Maid in the Shade .11c
La Vaca Solitaria .10b
...the view!
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jacs
climber
Colorado
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Spectreman, Vedauwoo
Quarter of a Man, Indian Creek
Wunsch's Dihedral, S. Platte
Spook Book, Needles
Climb of the Century, Eldo
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Nightcrawler RR
Davidsons Dihedral and numerous other forks routes like paradise lost (still can't even TR even after OS DD)
CW Hicks 2nd pitch GM
Kingpin 2nd pitch GM
Last pitch of recompence CL
Got to keep thinking
Good Morning I have figgured you out, I know who you are, Sir SAR
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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The Arch of Time 5.10 Titus Canyon, Indian Creek (new route).
Bottom third of Chouinard/Beckey, S. Howser Tower. Simo.
Someone had just died on Coarse & Buggy when I did it, that was exciting...no falls, no hangs for me.
Abracadaver, Cochise Stronghold.
Karl, I thought "Peace" was straightforward knobs, not a corner :-)
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Mungeclimber
Social climber
N. California
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bumpy path that "peace" route
very few will agree with this, so consider it top 5 Pinnacles Nat. Mon. corner routes...
Rat Race
Jorgie's Crack
Ordeal
Portent- though you climb the face
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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The Open Book at Tahquitz.
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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Most of the pitches on Primrose dihedral, Moses Tower, Utah
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akclimber
Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
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The Changing Corners pitch on the Nose was the hardest free-climbing I have ever done. Spectacular!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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apropos - Lucky Streaks, Tuolumne Meadows, the pitches just beyond the crux
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Mungeclimber
Social climber
N. California
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Josh is on the money there.
Open book for its sheer historical value alone.
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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The Fox, Red Rocks
Valentine's Day, Red Rocks
The shallow corner on Black Orpheus, Red Rocks
Classic Corner, Red Rocks
The Graduate, Red Rocks
of course, my experience of great corners is limited, but these are some fun ones i've been on!
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TW#T
Gym climber
san diego, ca
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like stated at the start of this post, coarse and buggy is hands down the best corner pitch you will do. In fact headin out right now to go do it. Are you bringing the tupperware or should I Karl?
adios fellas, have a great day climbing
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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EVER? puh-leeze. There are so very many. Like that one Dean plunges off of on the BD website. Having just returned from Indian Creek, I can think of one or two...
I think El Mat is 2 corners, strictly speaking :)
Coarse and Buggy is indeed a nice pitch, but to call it among the best ever... you've been in the little piles too long, my friend. That thing is like 42 feet tall.
How about OUTSIDE corners?
--Angels Arete, New River Gorge
--Defcon 5, T-Wall
--Swanson's Arete, Sunrider, Naked Edge, Northwest Corner, etc etc... Eldo, land of a zillion corners
--That Greg Child route on the Priest looks pretty spectacular.
--Let 'Er Buck, Donnelly Canyon
Seems like sandstone offers the cragger many many corners, of both types. Arapiles comes to mind. But there's nothing like those upper pitches on the Muir or the Nose. I guess those are only in the Top 5 list if you do them in one pitch, though....
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Fear of Flying, Phantom Spires ... beautiful
East Corner (2nd pitch), Lovers Leap...great fun climbing in corner, then A0 the crux.
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Spinmaster K-Rove
Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
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2nd pitch of Coffin Nail at Tahquitz!! Suuuuper classic 5.8 corner to a small roof.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Tahquitz
Open Book , Obviously!
1st pitch of Fingertrip to El Camino Real,
Consolation, A completely unique corner configuration for the crux.
NE Face West. 4-6 pitches of cruiser fairly continuous 5.6 corner.
Needles
Third pitch of WPOD, Voodoo Dome as well as Spook Book.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Enduro Pitch, Astroman
Lyback pitch, Good Book
Green Arch, Tahquitz
Last pitch, New Dimensions
Catchy Corner
High Pressure
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Mungeclimber
Social climber
N. California
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Catchy Corner!!! oh yeah. prefect laybacking in a corner.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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In order of excellance:
1. Moratorium (5.11b)
2. The Good Book (5.10d) did it twice, once before rock fall
and once just after (had to wipe off fine powder from every
hold.) Took 30' fall head first on this one.
3. Coarse and Buggy (5.11) Onsight
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Oh yeah, forgot...
4. Oz (5.10d) in Toulumne
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jan
Trad climber
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how about this one:
http://www.fivenineclimber.com/cragging/yosemite/muirfeature/muir_image_p23.htm
off course we did not even come close to free it, but it's a pretty good looking dihedral.
in the realm of free routes around .9/.10-, which is what i can do on a good day, hospital corner tops the all time list of dihedral climbs. but that one has already got a fair bit of recognition on this thread, so here's some maybe lesser known corners of reasonble quality in the middle grades:
the crux moves on super pooper (tahquitz) are amazing. more finesse than brute force.
crescent arch (tuolumne) starts as a corner...
NW corner on north early winter spires (north cascades) is a mighty fine dihedral, albeit a bit wide on the crux pitches.
double exposure (skaha) is a most entertaining trad outing up a weirdly leaning corner in the midst of thousands of clip-ups, sporting awkward balance and, yes, sheer double exposure.
caboose (squamish) is a sustained clean cut corner that certainly gets harder as the forearm burn gets worse.
la luna nascente (italy), see here:
http://www.fivenineclimber.com/cragging/misc%20areas/lunanascente1.htm
motorhead (grimsel pass, switzerland), 16 pitches of which more than half follows a series of thin, hard corners on some of the cleanest, most esthetic granite in europe. remember this route; worth the plane ticket in itself.
and a harder one that i climbed when i was younger and stronger:
cornflake crack (looking glass) is a henry barber test piece somewhere in n carolina featuring a tour the force first pitch and a calf burning stemming crux up higher.
jan
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan, my partner Gary noted that my lead of Cresent Arch had the highest "watch me" quotient of any climb we had ever done together. A corner indeed.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Another top competitor for 10- range corners: p4 of Silk Road, Cal Dome
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alik
Big Wall climber
edmonton
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split pillar, squamish.
the circle pitch on Zodiac is beautiful as well.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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No particular order;
Hollywood and vine, Deto
The Good book
Quarter of a Man
Bomberos Away, Camelback Mtn
The Enduro Corner a-man
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timmy_t
Trad climber
Fort Fun, Colorado
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Just about all Devils Tower has is amazing corners. Broken tree is another classic on it, Durrance is classic just to think when and how Jack Durrance climbed it way back when too. I'll second Assemblyline, and Soler too. So many still to do there!!!!
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Slab-Dyno
Trad climber
Dublin, PA
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-"Fingers in a Lightsocket" - Supercrack Buttress
-Second pitch of "Astro-Elephant" on The Elephant's Perch in Idaho
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WC
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Tough to list just five...
In the valley I enjoyed La Cosita (right) and La Escuala.
I have not climbed many of the classic valley corner pitches however.
My outside the valley favorites are:
Mayflower 5.9 (Paradise Forks)
Torpedo 5.10+ (really a double corner at PF)
On the Edge 5.11 (Paradise Forks)
Davison's Dihedral 5.11++ (Paradise Forks)
P3 of Mars Attacks! 5.8 (Sedona)
P1 of the Apache Route 5.9+ (Sedona)
P1 of Genesis 5.10- (Sedona)
Follow your Bliss 5.10- (Sedona)
P5 of Coyote Tower 5.9 (Sedona)
P4 of Earth Angel 5.9 (Sedona)
P4 of Moonlight Buttress 5.12d or C1 (Zion)
P1 of the North Chimney 5.9- (Castleton)
This list could go on for a while... Someone cut me off, please!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Good Book
Oz
Open Book
Last pitch of the Yawn, Have to agree with Swellymon on this one. For those of you who haven't done this TM classic, check it out. Old school for sure.
29 Palms, while not as good as many of many of listed on this thread, still Josh worthy
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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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You mean the 5.7 corner on the Yawn right? That's the second to last pitch 'cause there's another not so memorable pitch to the top of Medlicott. Classic route for sure.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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I haven't tried most of the ones that you guys are posting, so I certainly have no experience to pick the 5 best ever, but here are five good ones...
1. Braille Book
2. Dagger
3. Catchy Corner
4. Meat Grinder
5. The stemming pitch on the RR on Lower Cathedral
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Yeah! Dagger. Forgot about that one.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Paradise Lost.
Wavy Gravy on Scarface is kinda cool.
That crux pitch on the University Wall in Squamish that Peter Croft freed looks pretty damn amazing.
Haven't climbed D & T in Boulder but it looks really cool.
The Kor-Ingalls is pretty much a 250' corner stacked on top of a couple smaller ones.
And I have to climb the first 25 feet of Coyne Crack like a corner!
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Hardly Visible
climber
Port Angeles
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A few that I've enjoyed are 3rd pitch N. face Rostrum,I'd second Mellisa's Meat Grinder suggestion, Moby dick left (in a perverse sort of way), Over the Hill at Eldo, and Calamity Jam at Smith.
Nice geometry on that thing you posted a picture of Mike but that crack sure looks thin.
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Pitch 4, White Punks on Dope on Voodoo Dome in the Needles was really really fun.
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AndyG
climber
San Diego, CA
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Can't believe nobody's mentioned:
Incredible Hand Crack, Indian Creek. That was a beauty.
I also enjoyed
Oz,
Course and Buggy,
Open Book,
Crux pitch of Red Dihedral, Incredible Hulk,
El Camino Real at Tahquitz is also sweet.
Touch and Go at Josh is interesting because it seems to favor short people.
Andy
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Mungeclimber
Social climber
N. California
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Omg, I've never heard anyone say that about Touch and Go, but I had a heck of a time on it 6'1" and my buddy floated it and is 4-5" shorter than I.
I can't figure out why this would be?
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Dogger
Social climber
SE
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North Carolina "Inside" Classics
P1--Reflections
P1--Double Dihedrals
1st½ Fathom
P4--Blond Ambition
P1--Maginot Line
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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You might as well throw Invisible Airwaves and Electric Kool-Aid on that list. And the Womb, while we're at it. Bumblebee.
Someday I have do go back and do justice to the first pitch of Reflections. That may be the best 5.10 layback corner in the Carolinas, but I sure didn't treat it that way...I think the last pitch may actually be the WORST corner in the state :)
You think the Fathom is really that cool? It seems like you mostly just trot alongside it,not really climbing it like a true corner. When we finally hit the groove, though, I was sho 'nuf glad we came the way we did. Yikes.
Never done the Skyhedral, people say it's nice. The Double D, though, that one's proud. Plus Plus.
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AndyG
climber
San Diego, CA
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"Omg, I've never heard anyone say that about Touch and Go, but I had a heck of a time on it 6'1" and my buddy floated it and is 4-5" shorter than I.
I can't figure out why this would be?"
I think it's the stemming. The best stems are spaced for short legs.
Anyway, that's my $0.02.
Andy
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Petch
climber
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Mar 10, 2005 - 01:55pm PT
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Corner climbs in my canyon
1. Dog Party at the Box at the Leap
2. Hospital Corner
3. Grand Illusion
4. Tombstone Terror
5. Last pitch Bookmark
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Mar 10, 2005 - 02:26pm PT
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Representing the North East:
Pitch 3 of VMC Direct Direct, Cannon Cliff, NH
Pitch 3 of Recompense, Cathedral Ledge, NH
Pitch 3 of Diedre, Cathedral Ledge, NH
Book of Solemnity, Cathedral Ledge, NH
Duet Direct, Cannon Cliff, NH
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 10, 2005 - 09:00pm PT
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This is a good troll that has produced a quality list. but I don't think it can ever be definitive.
There are too many good corners, corners are one of the best climb types ever.
There are whole areas that are mostly strong on corners; Devil's Tower, Paradise Forks, Indian Creek etc. Some areas have such an embarrasement of riches that they have great corners by default; Yosemite, Josh, Vedauwoo, the Blackhills, the Soups, the Sierra in general.
The coolest thing about corners are the stem rests; technique over power.
The five best? Anyone's selection will make a great to do list.
Dihedrals are a cornerstone of quality climbing;
splitters are cool too.
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Slab-Dyno
Trad climber
Dublin, PA
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Mar 10, 2005 - 09:30pm PT
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"Friday the 13th" at Vedauwoo, WY:
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 10, 2005 - 11:34pm PT
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Great photo!
A truely great corner! But if you can only pick five, would it make the cut? Would it beat 4th of July? Agean stables(aka hesitation Blues?) Flying Butress? Grand Traverse? Hung like a horse? and that's just Vedauwoo! What about Black Corner? the first 5.11 pitch of Day in Court? and many more.
All corners are cool. Some are, however , more photogenic. Thanks for immortalizing that one better than I have seen it done before.
Early in, well, a while back in, my climbing career, I lead up over that first roof in the photo, placing a hex in the middle of it. I thought I had it made! I didn't. I tweaked, slipped, fell and slammed into the wall underneath.
Never a dull moment.
The second roof is almost a number grade easier than the first one.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 11, 2005 - 12:43am PT
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that looks truely sick and I really want to visit Vedauwoo (that is how sick I am). I am assuming the route goes up and under that block then up over it top... don't tell me it follows the crack above though it would be too much.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 11, 2005 - 01:42am PT
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Dude, don't ask what you don't want to hear. The route follows the crack to the summit. it's Vedauwoo, after all!
You'll love it!
That is such a cool photo, I feel 'blessed' to have had so many of my formative years, there.
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Joseph Myers
Trad climber
Antelope, CA
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Sep 27, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
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Hospital Corner. That route is wonderful, to say the least. But i would have to say El Matador would top it...even though i haven't done that one yet.
JM
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 27, 2006 - 03:06pm PT
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As long as we're talkin' Tahquitz don't pass up The Green Arch...
In Josh, if you like Coarse and Buggy, go find Snake Book.
How about Spook Book, in the Needles...
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darod
Trad climber
South Side Billburg
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Sep 27, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
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Ant's Line 5.9
Roseland 5.9
Bird's Cage .10b
in the Gunks....great corner climbs...
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 27, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
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Of course Friday the 13th goes through the upper roof. That's Pitch 2, although ever since some idiot put bolts on it right under the middle roof, most people never climb it. The meat of the upper roof is out of the picture but it's a classic with solid jams to the lip followed by and incredible thrash to pull right onto the summit slabs. Most people call that 11+/12-.
My favorite corners that I've done?
Enduro on Astroman - Yosemite
Good Book - Yosemite
Wunch's Dihedral - S. Platte
Quarter of a Man - Indian Creek
King Cat - Indian Creek
The Corner pitches on Primrose - Canyonlands
N. Face of the Rostrum - Yosemite
Hollywood & Vine - Devils Tower
Catchy Corner - Yosemite
Over the Hill - Eldo
Corner Pump Station - Lumpy Ridge
Mal
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smitty
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Ca
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Sep 27, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
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There was an awesome 5.11 corner at Penatente Canyon right left of "Bullet to the Bright Blue Sky" and left of the virgin. I thought that climb was fantastic sustained small climbing!!! I doubt it will make classics when compared to some of these others, but I love corner climbng and that one definitely tickled my fancy!
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Sep 27, 2006 - 04:24pm PT
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In chochise stronghold, the first pitch of Forest Lawn is pretty sweet. Note that the camera was turned a little. It's not this vertical:
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
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Sep 27, 2006 - 04:29pm PT
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Coarse and Buggy forsure
Last Pitch of S. Face of Prusik Peak
Open Book at Tahquitz
Red Zinger in Red Rocks
3rd pitch of Slow Children, Index
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wilcox510
climber
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Sep 27, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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Smitty - thats "Not My Cross to Bare" 11a/b. I'm not much of a sport climber but i LOVE that route.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Sep 27, 2006 - 04:46pm PT
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Pitch 4 of the Casual Route on the Diamond.
Brad
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
NC
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Sep 27, 2006 - 04:57pm PT
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So many good corners
Tipple S - Seneca, WV
Cornflake Crack - Looking Glass, NC
Terror in Tiny Town - City Of Rocks, ID
Red Dihedral - the Hulk, CA
Double Dihedrals - Whiteside, NC
Mr. Clean - Devils Tower, WY
Prayer Book - South Platte, CO
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 27, 2006 - 05:02pm PT
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Think I've got you all beat.
The Ultimahedral on Catharsis.
Half of this grade V is in a single perfect corner.
Not enough?
How about the whole route?
Gentleman's Agreement.
(That's actually MORE than 5 pitches.)
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scotty vincik
climber
up north, these days
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Sep 27, 2006 - 05:18pm PT
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OTHER CLASSIC VALLEY CORNERS:
CRACK OF DOOM
CRACK OF DESPAIR
MENTAL BLOCK
THESE ARE SOME MAN-SIZED CORNERS. LONG AND WIDE AND CLEAN
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Sep 27, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
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Ron,
Tell me more about this formation. Pictures?
The Red Dihedral : Rainbow Wall : Redrocks
Another Indian Creek thing.
(photo copyright Tim Kemple)
OZ : Drug Dome : Yosemite NP
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LuckyPink
Mountain climber
north bay today/someplace else tomorrow
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Sep 27, 2006 - 06:18pm PT
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Peaceful Warrior in Lost World improves your mind
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dufas
Trad climber
san francisco
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Sep 27, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
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mithral dihedral
red dihedral
black dihedral (mammoth)
trauma at pinns is good
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 27, 2006 - 06:29pm PT
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The famous corner of Horse Chute is a great pic. Unfortunately the crack has a coral-like crust that isn't much fun.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 27, 2006 - 06:32pm PT
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The Ultimahedral is the 500' right facing corner immediately to the right of the big scar on Timbertop Mesa; can't miss it.
Gentleman's Agrrement is also in Zion, a right facing corner on the SE prow of Mt. Nemia (AKA one of the 3 "Marys", this one being the furthest W).
Again, can't miss it.
Ultimahedral, mostly wide, rap the route.
GA, bring the full range, standard descent into gap to the E, a few short raps.
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goatboy smellz
climber
northboulder, co
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Sep 27, 2006 - 06:37pm PT
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corners, aretes, itz all fun...
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NoRushNoMore
climber
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Sep 27, 2006 - 06:41pm PT
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10b (Pitch 5) and 11a (pitch 10) Silk Road
and 9+ pitch 5 War of the Walls both at Calaveras
If you have not done these you have not seen the real corners yet! close to 200' each of non-stop corner bonanza
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Dog
climber
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Sep 27, 2006 - 06:52pm PT
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Enduro Corner-Astroman
Oz
Moratorium with Eric Gable
Good Book
Nose-the upper pitches
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don'thaveone
climber
bishop
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Sep 27, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
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What about Yin-Yang (in the valley? I remember it being an awesome corner.
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GhostClimber
climber
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Sep 27, 2006 - 07:55pm PT
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Touch and Go
Split Pillar
Braille book
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Sep 27, 2006 - 08:01pm PT
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Cenotaph Corner in Wales. Sight of my first leader fall. Great location....Great History.....Great Corner. Celebrated ascent with a Chip Buddy and a pint of Bitters at the local pub!!
Cracko
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s. o.
Trad climber
the desert
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Sep 27, 2006 - 08:02pm PT
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I am suprised Piton Ron didn't include this one:
Monkeyfinger in Zion
six pitches of mostly liebacking plus an amazing slitter in the face.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 27, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
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everyone likes a good slitter.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 27, 2006 - 08:21pm PT
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SO, a bit shallow to call a corner.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 27, 2006 - 08:26pm PT
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Spaghetti Western, Indian Creek
The Book of Solemnity, Cathedral Ledge NH
Mechanics Routes, Mt Washington NH
Scimitar, the Leap
Wall of the Worlds, Calaveras Dome
Wings & Stings, Hammer Dome
no shortage of clean, excellent corners out there
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wildone
climber
Isolated in El Portal and loving it
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Sep 27, 2006 - 08:29pm PT
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What about "the tube" at pat and jack's? I like that one.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 27, 2006 - 08:49pm PT
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Oops.
Just saw I misread the title; thought it was top five pitch corners.
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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Sep 27, 2006 - 09:27pm PT
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La Reina-Joshua tree
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 27, 2006 - 09:36pm PT
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i didin't read this. too many posts. my vote goes to: bircheff-williams, pitch one.
runner-up: rockwork orange, josh
third runner up: all of the above.
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TradIsGood
Fun-loving climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Sep 27, 2006 - 09:47pm PT
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Today I had fun on Bloody Bush and Wrist at the Gunks. Red Pillar, P2 of Classic, and Horseman have interesting corners, too.
But they don't compare to the corners shown.
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estwing
Trad climber
montreal
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Sep 27, 2006 - 09:49pm PT
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no one has mentioned the "Shadow" variation to University Wall in squamish
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Sep 27, 2006 - 11:11pm PT
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there are some good suggestions scattered above, and i haven't climbed all of them (yet), but here are 5 great corners that i didn't see anywhere up there:
slot machine, resivoir wall, IC
kool cat, cat wall, IC (chosing that one because i'm not certain, is king cat a corner or a roof?)
the linkable pitches of rock on, squamish (is it P4&P5? maybe not top 5, but really cool)
new dimensions, linking the final 2 pitches, arch rock, YV
midterm, arch rock (it is a corner before you slide inside her)
again, not necesarily my top 5, but 5 worth being included in this thread.
btw- anyone from anywhere who doesn't include the fox @ RR in their top 5 has simply never climbed it, and saying, "so-and-so-corner looks cool", that doesn't count for shite.
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Melvin Mills
Trad climber
Albuquerque NM
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Sep 27, 2006 - 11:58pm PT
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Paradise Lost - The Forks
It has all the styles of corner climbing and is a pumper.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 28, 2006 - 12:04am PT
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Some of my favs seem to be like so many others,
OZ
The Good Book
Course and Buggy
and about 50 different places on El Cap, like this one.
sorry about the black sides, but photobucket is doing weird things. I deleted it, cropped, saved and re-loaded it and it still is showing the letterbox, hmmmm
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 12, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
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The most recent issue of one of the mags (Climbing or R&I, I forget which) had a feature on the South Face of Half Dome, showing a free ascent of the obvious big corner. Looked like pretty amazing climbing, although there were a lot of picthes of 12 and 13, so probably out of reach for most of us here.
D
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 12, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
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The classic S.E. Corner of Beacon Rock of course...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 13, 2008 - 12:40am PT
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The corner to climb on Tahquitz Rock is The Green Arch.
The corner to climb in Josh is 29 Palms (other than certain boulder problems..)
Tobin's Dihedral, at Dome rock is another oversight on this thread so far.
Gorilla Warfare, in The Needles. Hoah!!
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Odub
Trad climber
Cincy, Ohio
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Jan 13, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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The Inhibitor, 11a, Red River Gorge
Spectreman, 11c, Vedauwoo
Enduro Corner, 11c, Yosemite
4th pitch of Moonlight, 12+, Zion
In that order...
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Chewbongka
climber
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Jan 13, 2008 - 12:51am PT
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"everyone likes a good slitter"
hahahahahaha we finally got it... wicked...
...whew...he-heh
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 13, 2008 - 03:15am PT
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The Good Book
Oz
Open Book, Tahquitz
The Kind
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jan 13, 2008 - 03:41am PT
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Muir Wall
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 13, 2008 - 03:47am PT
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The Yawn
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Eggstele
Trad climber
Kings Beach, Lake Tahoe
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Jan 13, 2008 - 08:16am PT
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Too many posts to read to be absolutely sure, but I am pretty sure no one has mentioned:
Silk Road - Cal Dome
It has been several years, but I remember a few amazing 5.10 corner pitches
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Jan 13, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
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An old favorite of mine is:
Triple S (5.9)at Seneca Rocks West (By God)Virginia
Tom Evans
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Brian Kimball
Sport climber
Westminster, CO.
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Jan 13, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
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Enduro Corner 5.12d on Salathe Wall. No one has mentioned this 200' pitch and given the facts it could be THE BEST corner pitch on PLANET EARTH, NO???
Epitaph 5.13b on The Tombstone. It is a mind blowing winter aid line as well. I am suprised that this incredible overhanging line up this amazing formation does not get more attention. Just leave the pitons and hammer on the ground eh!
Christmas Tree 5.12d at Battle of the Buldge. 160' of Green Alien LOVE. This route is probably not in the top 5 'ALL TIME' but it was not mentioned and I certianly think this route is traditionally overlooked, especially being that it is located on such a popular wall. YO, CHALK IT UP!
Casual Route 5.8 Corner. Only one other person mentioned this. Given the setting, altitude, quality and ease, as well as the fact that you can climb the entire corner as a 230' pitch if you have a 70m rope and are willing to run it out; I think this could be a fair argument for top 5 and it is certianly one of the best rope stretchers I have ever climbed in my life!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Jan 13, 2008 - 02:41pm PT
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Some of us prefer to be enclosed in a nice, secure corner. Maybe we feel a bit vulnerable out on a flat wall and the opposing sides give us a sense (possibly false) of protection.
Of course, I'm preferential to Course and Buggy. I've also loved every liebacking, stemming and splayed open instant on the Good Book, the Moratorium, the Green Arch, the Bircheff-Williams, Anticipation, the Open Book, High Pressure and Oz.
Oh yes, and what is the name of that classic Largo/Harrison route at Josh (named after a Hendrix song?) that starts out on overhanging thin hand crack in a perfect corner, then surmounts the giant roof while hand-traversing the big flake. Help me with this...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 13, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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That would be Imaginary Voyage ...?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 13, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
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I need to go climbing...
Too right!
I'm thinking the Red Dihedral pitches at the top of the Rainbow Wall were about the most cosmic corners that I ever climbed.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 13, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
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Corrigation Corner; The Leap
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 13, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
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Chitlin Corner, Maine
Red M and M's Vantage, Wa.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 13, 2008 - 09:33pm PT
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Hey Todd = would them be yer chitlin's there ...?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 13, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
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Yessir, they would be.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 14, 2008 - 01:59am PT
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The big corner (13a?) at Squamish--The Shadow (?) There was a profile of it in an old Climbing and then more recently in Alpinist. Requires incredible shoulder and hip strength. Oh, and really good rubber.
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TradIsGood
Recently unshackled climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jan 14, 2008 - 07:10am PT
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Also at Gunks - P2 of Baby - 6.
Much shorter, but intense - The Spring - 10.
As mentioned earlier, Ant's Line - keeps coming at you until you reach the anchor (just above the crux!)
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Tim Lawrence
Trad climber
Madrid, Spain
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Jan 14, 2008 - 08:05am PT
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The Daily Planet in Squamish has to be one of the best corner pitches ever!
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 14, 2008 - 12:05pm PT
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Spencer, you did a great job leading Catchy Corner on a couple
hexes in 77.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 14, 2008 - 12:38pm PT
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Moritorium
Good Book
Paradise Lost
Mayflower Direct
Forest Lawn
Corrigation Corner
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 14, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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Cracko--I've never done it, but I'm glad you mentioned Cenotaph
corner. It's a beaut.
Tom Evans--I agree about Triple-S in West (by god), Virginia, but it was a 5.8 when we old climbers did it.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jan 14, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
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Another excellent corner in the Gunks is Bonnie's Roof.
And Todd Gordon - I'd agree Chitlins Corner is phenomenal. Pitch one - at the grade (5.7), I cannot think of any corner that comes close in quality. And pitch 2, while shorter and harder (5.10a) is pretty damn good.
GO
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 20, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
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here's one of the corners mentioned...
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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Jan 21, 2008 - 01:24am PT
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Here are a few shots of my favorites:
Enduro corner on the Salathe/Freerider
Wunsch's Dihedral
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adam d
climber
CA
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Jan 21, 2008 - 01:50pm PT
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gunks corner pics
The Winter, 10d
Simple Suff 10a (Barber FFA)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Gram Traverse, two pitches of corner. Just at a funny angle...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Feb 18, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 19, 2008 - 01:19am PT
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Another good one is Green Arch at Tahquitz. A thin corner, but a corner nonetheless.
JL
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 19, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Is it Top 5? Naww ... but all Josh climbers will recognize this nifty, over-protectable little corner.
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BigNick
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Feb 19, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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Here’s a few:
JT
Pat Adams Dihedral…albeit a steep corner
Popes Crack
29 Palms
Scary Monsters
RR
Cloud Tower …crux pitch…and last?
Yos.
Beggars Buttress …at least 2 of the pitches
East Buttress Lower Cathedral
Needles
Ankles Away…1st pitch
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adam d
climber
CA
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Feb 19, 2008 - 09:35pm PT
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Chiloe's is Light Sabre
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 20, 2008 - 07:04am PT
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Chiloe's is Light Sabre
And adam d is right! Fun little corner, eh?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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didn't read the whole thing
Bircheff williams?
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dave goodwin
climber
carson city, nv
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with all these great photos ther seems to be alot of good corners out there.
personally I found the 10th pitch of Silk Road to be one of the best I have done. Also and I did not see anyone else mention Dog Party at the Leap. Great job by Petch doing this one first.
It is short but stout and I get worked on it every time.
take care
dave
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