Discussion Topic |
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
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Dale Bard freed this beast in 1982 in EB's at 5.12d with Harrington.
Does anybody know who's done this thing?
Thanks, JB
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:41pm PT
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I'll see if I can dig up an old Epperson photo of it (Chad Shephard climbing?) He's using some pretty unorthodox wide technique. Walt Shipley may have done it (mention of it showed up in another thread.) Schneider? Not many, that's for sure
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Double face out armbars ( in the photo, I've never been up there, yet)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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Jay, what in the heck is that?!?
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 10, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
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Regarding the brilliantly framed image by Epperson - the cramped frame conveying the climber's predicament perfectly - I understand that what followed immediately was a fall, so the fancy double arm bar is presumably not the way to go.
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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that looks easy
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
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Okay, so it was a face in, attempt. Oh well.
As Schneider set to Walt (who had just suggested that very beta (guy never forgot anything he heard, I swear)) one memorable night, on the lodge slide show benches.
"Doubtful!"
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
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is that up on the pywiak(sp?) headwall?
if so, i heard that was just a pose for a shoot as opposed to an effective technique for an ascent (let's be honest, lots of the climbing photos out there are either posed or re-enactment poses for photos).
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
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looks casual.
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lemon_boy
climber
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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i have actually used the 'double chickenwing' technique on several overhanging (and quite a few not-overhanging) routes, and it actually works pretty good. you set one wing, and then shuffle the other a small bit, slowly working them back and forth. in particular, it is pretty good in flares as they can conform to your arm dimensions a bit better than parallel cracks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 10, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
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I'll send Shanti.
I did no dble armbars on Lizard King, but maybe I should have-Mebbe on New Maps of Hell, too!
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Bovine
Trad climber
USA
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Jul 10, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
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If Chad did not get it clean on that go in the photo, What about his partner that day, Sean Kriletich? I can't remember if either one of them sent...
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tr4
climber
Jah Meadows,ynp,ca
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Jul 10, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
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Yeah I do remember in 2002 or 03 those guys going up there, Chad and Sean. I think Oliver the beast from Canada went up a few years ago too.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jul 10, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
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yeah, that thing looks light - uh huh...
(holy sh*t)
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bob
climber
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Jul 11, 2008 - 10:38am PT
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Nope, no send for the boys in 2003. Looked hard as I stared up at them from below nursing my monstrous hangover. Bad enough that I still remember it. Looks quite engaging for sure. Definitely no problem for folks to take the whippers thats for sure. Sounds like a fixed nut was the lucky piece. Never got up there and tried it myself. Did the approach pitch when doing Soft White Underbelly. No pro! You thinking of getting up there John?
Bob J.
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CF
climber
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Jul 11, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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I worked on this with Vern Clevenger back in the 70's and the crossed arm bars are pretty much the only thing that works as there is no crack in the back. Vern almost got it one day as he had the fist jam but then fell. The approach pitch is pretty run out and a bolt may have fallen out.
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Jul 11, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
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Chad didn't send it and I believe the double-arm bar was a little bit of a pose. He couldn't figure out how to do it. Bard probably threw his legs over his head and did a Houdini move. There's a small brass stopper protecting the move. A little hairball. Let me know if you go out and try it John. I'd like to hear about it.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Why is it called Boa Roof? I didn't know that boa constrictors had a habit of spitting out their prey.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 11, 2008 - 01:40pm PT
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hey chris-
the meadows misses you too bro!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 11, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
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I talked to Oliver (Moon?)...anyways, the buft Canadian dude. He's done BFBB and other hard wide. He sez it's hard, but that's not "mandatory" beta...poorly pro'ed, as well.
ct, that's a fantastic photo.
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chad
climber
Tuolumne
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Jul 11, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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Just heard about this thread. Whats up Bachar, Bovine, James full of slander as usual. I'm up in the meadows right now using some sweet dial-up internet.
Tried that route twice, 2001 with sean K, neither of us sent, I fell out of the crux moves in the roof about a dozen times, onto the #3 peanut. cracked my cheakbone pretty good on one fall.
here's a bit of info. The fixed #3 peanut under the roof is the first piece off the anchor, then it's about 15 feet no more pro, through the crux. the crux is very short. the arm bars were actually pretty easy, and super secure for the first few, then your feet cut out and it's a couple real hard moves. it's a water groove, totally flaring . As far as I knew dale bard had the only ascent (proud), i think Oliver did not send, but it would be for lack of effort because he is a beast(he made short work of BfBB and Trench Warfare), maybe he did though. Maybe David sent it, wouldn't doubt that either. I talked to Dale years ago, he did it the same way as I tried, with the arm bars. After the last good arm bar, he sucked his legs up, jammed his feet into the back of the groove, and pressed his knees out against the sides of the groove. pretty wild beta, and definite short guy beta, i couldn't get my legs up i there. The route looks cool in pics, and from the road, but in reality it's a bit of a nightmare. the first pitch is a mellow 5.6 solo to a ledge with no anchor, then super runout grainy 5.9, then a 10d traverse under the roof that is always soaking wet. I think it would have more ascents, but most people go up once, and do not generally return. it's hard, but not in a fun way i guess. above the crux is pretty nice climbing though.
hope someone finds this info interesting. I'm off to the beach.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 11, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
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Did Piggot ever go up there or was that some other wide thing? Jaybro, do you recall?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jul 11, 2008 - 05:40pm PT
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Piggot did the Owl, and at least got on Elephant's E. I thought Cilley told the he (Rick)did EE. I asked him about it and we ended up swapping Owl stories and never back to EE.
-never even spoke about Boa.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 11, 2008 - 08:08pm PT
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Chad,
Thanks for that write-up. Ever try Piroette? That one seems to get just as little traffic.
Nice job on Broken Arrow!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
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I tried it with Dale a long time ago. We couldn't make a move on it. He became obsessed with it and got it.
Dale could straight arm bar anything - no stacking needed. The best pure off width climber I've ever seen.
I was looking at it the other day and it brought back memories.
It's wicked man....
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Jul 14, 2008 - 02:16am PT
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Chad,
Good to hear you're not a poser. Hope the meadows are sick.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jul 14, 2008 - 04:56am PT
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Pretty sure that Chad Shepard pic is from 2001. I'm not sure if he ever sent it but it sounds like he kept trying.
*edit* oops he posted in this thread already
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Jun 29, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Bump for sickness!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 29, 2009 - 12:54am PT
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John, What's it like getting to the biddness? ie the face below the roof.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 26, 2009 - 03:10am PT
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ho man... looks so sweet
from the Alpinist web site...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 26, 2009 - 03:42am PT
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Dang!
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Eric McAuliffe
Trad climber
Alpine County, CA
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Jul 26, 2009 - 10:45am PT
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isn't that somewhere near aqua nobby? Lama looks SOLID; thats a scary looking flare!
E
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Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
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Aug 20, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
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Bump because its rad. Anyone get on it this year?
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Aug 20, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
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Dale. Focus. Done...eventually.
Hey, that is a superb pic of Boa and the Forked Tongue Rt.
Reminds me of why we went up there. What beautiful rock.
TC
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 20, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
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If you can/have done Boa roof you're an instant rock climbing demigod ......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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the start of another TM season...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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this thread is really about how strong Dale was and how intense and focussed he could be.
EDIT: although looking through it again I'm thinking about how odd it is that John has moved on
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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bump for meadows radness...
the polish on that part of the wall in the Alpinist picture is truly stunning.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Send thSt Noa before the road closes! Serious afternoon sun.
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Loomis
climber
Peklo
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Dec 29, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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Rumor has it, Adam Ondra did this onsight.
Any stories about this claim?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 29, 2012 - 02:56am PT
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He travelled all the way to Tuolumne to secretly climb a 12D offwidth?
lol. :)
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Loomis
climber
Peklo
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Dec 29, 2012 - 03:14am PT
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A Black Diamond™ photo is supposed to support this claim.
GDavis: There may be things we are not allowed to know about, for the sake of photo ops.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 20, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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Boa bump.
Hey Jaybro, with all the wide action going down these days, I seem to recall that you had a plan to tackle this sucker a couple of summers ago. Did that ever happen? 2014??
Archives EDIT:
Looks like you had sleeping arrangements worked out, a topo to guide your way, everything.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 20, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
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I don't think that way'd go...
...we sort of looked at it.
somehow, people are scared off by the 5.9 pitch that Robbins did free to get to the roof (I think he has the FA, aiding through the roof), the 10c/d traversing pitch looked protectable... the roof, ooolala...
all sorts of shenanigans to inspect possibilities didn't pan out (no inspection) but were great adventures none-the-less
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Nov 20, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
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Actually Eddie, that was a Vandiver pitch. And yeah, Vandiver loved running stuff out. Perhaps more than anyone else. He continued to 3rd class stuff even past the year 2000 around the age of fifty.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 20, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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It's cool, we're going back, en Masse! Dr Ed is leading the sissy face climbing! I've got a pair of Robbins boots that are his side in.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 21, 2013 - 01:18am PT
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skip the Robbins boots Jaybro, I'll lead in my Legends...
and we've got to get Marty(r) in on this too...
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Nov 21, 2013 - 01:23am PT
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I, as before, offer to provide the beverages should this blessed event take place. Kombucha all around! Place your orders :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 21, 2013 - 01:31am PT
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Ginger chia over here!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 21, 2013 - 01:47am PT
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The approach pitch is pretty run out and a bolt may have fallen out.
Now this is the type of beta I like to see in the guide!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 14, 2015 - 09:51am PT
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awesome news Walleye!
and big props to Chase.
Looking forward to reading the story, some place, some time, and seeing your images.
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batguano
climber
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Jun 14, 2015 - 10:59am PT
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Strong work!
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 14, 2015 - 11:05am PT
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My error for the photo uploading reads http error1:0:
Anybody know what that means?
Means you're a stoopid American just like me .. :-)
Try and converting your image to .jpg?
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 14, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Hahaha LOL .....
yeah send them to me and I'll see if I can upload them.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 14, 2015 - 12:30pm PT
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 14, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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proud
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 14, 2015 - 12:45pm PT
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Yeah
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jun 14, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
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Like Public Enemy said, "Goddamn, that is the dope jam!"
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 14, 2015 - 01:33pm PT
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Oh, it's a bandana route! I knew we forgot something, Ed & Marty!
Nice work men, looks killer!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 14, 2015 - 02:09pm PT
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Evans would have a field day with the clothing color choice for this ascent.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jun 14, 2015 - 02:17pm PT
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Woohoo! Great job! Wish I'd been there to see it.
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fosburg
climber
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Jun 14, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
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Bump for climbing
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jun 14, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
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Nice shots Russ! Looks like old school.
Bachar/Bard bump.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Jun 15, 2015 - 05:14am PT
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Burly!
Looks like he styled it . . .
Thanks for posting those photos, wbraun!
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Jun 15, 2015 - 08:06am PT
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Wow, what an awesome sequence! masterful technique... thanks for sharing!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 15, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Thanks for posting that up! Very cool sequence. Balls to the wall route.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jun 15, 2015 - 09:17am PT
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Sweet!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 15, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
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Ho, that first pic where he's in the roof! Can you say "insecure". Then, suddenly, facing the other way. Very sweet.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jun 15, 2015 - 03:41pm PT
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Now that's how the cool kids operate.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jun 15, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
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Very cool climbing content!!!
Thanks for the excellent photos and congrats to the climbers.
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fosburg
climber
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Jun 15, 2015 - 07:44pm PT
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Bump for Werner's great photos, truly inspiring!
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jun 15, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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Thank you for sharing your wonderful photos Walter!!
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 15, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Werner's great photos
They're NOT mine.
They're Walleye's photos.
Read the credits please.
Walleye couldn't upload them so he sent them to me and I uploaded them for him.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 15, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
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They're mine NOW!!!
muahahahahaha
:-)
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mastadon
Trad climber
crack addict
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Jun 16, 2015 - 07:04am PT
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You two guys just slay me!! Ha!
Dale was never my favorite person but I'll give him credit for being a bad-ass climber and VERY focused at everything he did.
Those pictures are impressive. It just shows you how really good the younger generation of climbers are.
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matchez
climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 16, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
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yeeaaaah chase! yeeeaaaah cruz!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 16, 2015 - 01:34pm PT
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... Chase and Cruise also swung leads on, and did, a no-falls ascent of The Bachar Yerian, last summer (2014).
Honestly, a no-falls ascents of the B-Y isn't that noteworthy. Well, not as noteworthy as the ascents with falls!
(And no, I'm not saying that it ain't proud!!! ;-)
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 16, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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thank you for posting your photos Werner. What camera did you use from so afar and having such a good resolution?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 17, 2015 - 05:36am PT
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from the front page of this thread so that it is an easier read as to whats in the campfire
bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Dale Bard freed this beast in 1982 in EB's at 5.12d with Harrington.
Does anybody know who's done this thing?
Thanks, JB
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:41pm PT
I'll see if I can dig up an old Epperson photo of it (Chad Shephard climbing?) He's using some pretty unorthodox wide technique. Walt Shipley may have done it (mention of it showed up in another thread.) Schneider? Not many, that's for sure
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
Double face out armbars ( in the photo, I've never been up there, yet)
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
Jay, what in the heck is that?!?
mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
Regarding the brilliantly framed image by Epperson - the cramped frame conveying the climber's predicament perfectly - I understand that what followed immediately was a fall, so the fancy double arm bar is presumably not the way to go.
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jul 10, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
Here goes boys. Have at it!
It was buried deep in the "Homage to Roof Climbing" thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=197687&msg=198522#msg198522
darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
that looks easy
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
Okay, so it was a face in, attempt. Oh well.
As Schneider set to Walt (who had just suggested that very beta (guy never forgot anything he heard, I swear)) one memorable night, on the lodge slide show benches.
"Doubtful!"
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
is that up on the pywiak(sp?) headwall?
if so, i heard that was just a pose for a shoot as opposed to an effective technique for an ascent (let's be honest, lots of the climbing photos out there are either posed or re-enactment poses for photos).
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:11pm PT
looks casual.
lemon_boy
climber
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
i have actually used the 'double chickenwing' technique on several overhanging (and quite a few not-overhanging) routes, and it actually works pretty good. you set one wing, and then shuffle the other a small bit, slowly working them back and forth. in particular, it is pretty good in flares as they can conform to your arm dimensions a bit better than parallel cracks.
The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
That double armlock sh#t is the same way the crux of The Lizard King is done, only that's 11c. Only time I've ever had to do it...
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
I'll send Shanti.
I did no dble armbars on Lizard King, but maybe I should have-Mebbe on New Maps of Hell, too!
Walleye
climber
Under the dwarf maples near The Same Mansion
Jul 10, 2008 - 02:37pm PT
Oh yeah, that looks extra fun....
Bovine
Trad climber
USA
Jul 10, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
If Chad did not get it clean on that go in the photo, What about his partner that day, Sean Kriletich? I can't remember if either one of them sent...
The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
Jul 10, 2008 - 05:12pm PT
Jaybro -
Only twisted f#ks do that route- dble arm locks or whatever.
tr4
climber
Jah Meadows,ynp,ca
Jul 10, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
Yeah I do remember in 2002 or 03 those guys going up there, Chad and Sean. I think Oliver the beast from Canada went up a few years ago too.
Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jul 10, 2008 - 08:05pm PT
yeah, that thing looks light - uh huh...
(holy sh*t)
bob
climber
Jul 11, 2008 - 10:38am PT
Nope, no send for the boys in 2003. Looked hard as I stared up at them from below nursing my monstrous hangover. Bad enough that I still remember it. Looks quite engaging for sure. Definitely no problem for folks to take the whippers thats for sure. Sounds like a fixed nut was the lucky piece. Never got up there and tried it myself. Did the approach pitch when doing Soft White Underbelly. No pro! You thinking of getting up there John?
Bob J.
CF
climber
Jul 11, 2008 - 11:42am PT
I worked on this with Vern Clevenger back in the 70's and the crossed arm bars are pretty much the only thing that works as there is no crack in the back. Vern almost got it one day as he had the fist jam but then fell. The approach pitch is pretty run out and a bolt may have fallen out.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 99 in this topic
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jun 17, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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That Chase guy comes from good genetics...What did you expect...?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 17, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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very cool!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 17, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
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That looks WILD!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 17, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
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Great sequence Walleye
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overwatch
climber
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Oct 17, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
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Great shots! That looks strenuous. How hard is that traverse before the roof?
I would like to see the shot between the chicken wings and the hand jam.
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overwatch
climber
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Oct 17, 2015 - 01:26pm PT
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Way cool, thanks for adding those shots!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Oct 17, 2015 - 02:31pm PT
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Every once and a while Supertopo has some worth while content. This is one of those times. Outstanding!
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 18, 2015 - 10:19am PT
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Sweet!!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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May 29, 2016 - 06:49pm PT
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This is excellent!!! Great thread! Great shots!!!!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 29, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
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Nice pics, Walleye. Props to those studs that sent that too. Brutal looking.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I doubt it...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I haven't heard anything, but I'm not that connected...
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Such a cool looking line. Which traverse is 10d the first or second? How hard is the rest of the climbing except for the crux?
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WBraun
climber
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Insects do it all the time without ropes or any gear.
Gross materialists will all become insects in their next lives after trying this .....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 06:46pm PT
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more badassness bump
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| Messages 1 - 98 of total 98 in this topic |
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