Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 55 of total 55 in this topic |
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
|
I am looking to climb this route next weekend. Are there any educated opinions about spring melt and general condition of the route??? I have not yet made it out to the valley this spring.
|
|
marky
climber
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
|
seconded. I want to know too, as I throw down Memorial Day weekend.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
|
You're likely to encounter snow in the Cathedral Chimney. Somebody did the East Butt awhile back and posted a tr. Search that
Peace
Karl
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2008 - 06:34pm PT
|
A classic long-adventure route. Definitely some spicey technical edging on the lower half of the route but once you get a feel for that type of climbing its not unreasonably scary. The upper chimneys are physical but go fairly quickly once you adopt the right attitude. The supertopo is excellent. This is a must do on the Yosemite long-free circuit. Anyone who pushes the "Do Not Bother" moniker obviously hasn't done the route and is just plain intimidated by the commitment necessary to climb the route in a day. Check the route beta info for the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral as there has been recent rockfall in the Cathedral gulley descent.
by
Joec
The DNB has been possibly misrepresented by the local moniker "Do Not Bother". The route is certainly worth doing, and contains testy face and crack climbing en mass. Like many older routes, the pitches are predominantly short, and using the abundant natural pro, one can easily create belay stations where needed when running the rope out. Careful routefinding is essential; circuitous variations right of the wide crack on Thirsty Spire exist, are fun and protect reasonably. As with any thousand-plus foot expanse of Yosemite granite, loose rock can be found - being first on the route is key for both mental comfort and avoiding epic-bound parties. Be sure to head up high and left to the Katwalk and stay high generally ALL THE WAY around the formation to the gully (followed by a couple of short raps into the gully proper). Between the end of the 5th class and before the Katwalk, don't be lulled into the blocky downward freeway that dead ends at the U-shaped bowl - it's a frequent epic site.
by
Mike Ousley
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yomcdire
Just bringing balance to the force..
Question, have you done the route? If so why not bother?
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
|
I would tend to agree with the "Do Not Bother" group. I have done this route twice, and it was a bit of a letdown both times. The bottom pitches were the best & cleanest. After the 9th pitch, the rock got dirtier, more lichen infested & tended to follow awkward chimneys that were prone to naturally occuring rockfalls that rained down on my partner & I.
Clusterie- You said "Anyone who pushes the "Do Not Bother" moniker obviously hasn't done the route and is just plain intimidated by the commitment necessary to climb the route in a day." Well I have done the route and I would dare to say that I am NOT intimidated by the commitment to climb the route in a day. I have plenty of experience on Yosemite's cliffs so I can say with some degree of expertise that the DNB is an overrated choss pile.
Another friend of mine & his wife were victims of rockfall on this route when she was struck by a falling stone that almost completely severed her finger from her hand that she raised to cover her face when the rock fell from above.
I have seen so many rockfalls over in the Cathedrals it seems like a bowling alley. Look over the base & examine for yourself all the fallen debris from up high on Middle cathedral. Why expose yourself to all that risk for a rather middling route?
There are cleaner & much more classic routes to do in the Valley, go do some of those instead.
Levy
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
|
At least the first 6 pitches are worthy if you like face climbing on Middle Cathedral. p5 is one of my favorite pitches in Yosemite (rated 5.9 on some topos, 5.10d on supertopo!). Then you can rap or do a few pitches on the Ho Chi Minh Trail.
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2008 - 08:12pm PT
|
Levy reread my post, I did not make those statements I just brought to life a conflicting statement from the DNB superposty. I am sure you are a good rock climber,you big stud you. You see DNB= Do Not Bother does not answer any of the questions I have, it just seems like a cute responce that has built up in the rock climbing community. So I am seeking more information, cause I don't have it.
Now, I have also heard people call the Balck Canyon of the Gunnison a choss pile and I love climbing there, it is also dangerous and loose. I find it worth it every time, as there is more good rock than bad and with good judgement and research you can go out and climb a quality route every time. So I am wondering then if the same thing might be going on with the DNB.
Westchrist what is your experience on the route you big reticent you.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2008 - 09:18pm PT
|
When you look at Reid's topo for the DNB, it's a terrible sandbag. It's easy to think, Only a few moves of 5.10 and a bit of 5.9 face, big deal, let's start at 9am.
Big mistake. The routefinding can be challenging and face climbing thin and sometimes run-out. You can't run up face pitches like that unless you are dialed on that kind of face (or are climbing way below your limit)
Either way, Start dang early and have new batteries in your headlamp and some way to not freeze if it gets dark and cold.
Peace
karl
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
|
It's been over 32 years but as I recall, there are better routes. Still Middle Cathedral is always a joy to climb on.
EDIT
Sure beats the one-pitch stuff I have been climbing on in Dalkey Quarry lately.
BTW, if anybody out there on the Taco Stand is coming to Ireland, look me up, as my front door is a five-minute walk to the quarry. Good granite, with face, crack and slab climbing (5.3-5.13+, M-E7+), though short (average 20-30 metre), of course, but the late Michael Riordan, among many people, found the quarry a good place to climb - 25 minutes or so on the DART from the city centre and a ten-minute walk up from Dalkey Station.
patricksawyer@mountaineers.net
dpatricksawyer@gmail.com (d for Douglas)
home phone: +353 1 204 8961
mobile: +353 87 671 0025
office: +353 1 660 8400
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2008 - 04:35am PT
|
weschrist,
> Thrashed my way through the first chimney seconding. Horrible when it is wet btw.
I agree, that first chimney pitch can be a major pain (ask Melissa, too). I can do it OK because I have long arms. But instead, I always start from the right and traverse in above it.
> The 3rd is the one with the crux bolt clip, right? The bolt that is 3 inches beyond my absolute max reach from anything resembling a good stance? And my last piece was way down right, out of site... probably near the top of that corner thing... what was it, a blue TCU... I forgot on purpose. So I did the move unprotected, clipped the bolt at my waste, then allowed myself to piss my pants.
The bolt at the crux mantle is at chest height (4" above the W-shaped mantle hold), and you are standing on a big ledge. So your recollection may be of:
 approach to the crux mantle. Here there is a very reachy move to exit the small corner over to the right, with a blue TCU for pro sounds about right. (I place 2 pieces of gear there). I'm tall, so the reach is not too bad for me. The Roper guide calls this approach move a 5.9 mantle, which is about right, and it is not marked on the Meyers/Reid topo.
after pressing up on the mantle, there is a second bolt up high on the right. Some people try to clip it in the middle of doing the mantle and some end up pulling on it. I don't clip it, since it was added in the 1990s and does not belong there. It's a Petzl Longlife and looks difficult to remove.
> After a couple wobbly flakes and what looked like utter choss above, my partner and I decided it wasn't worth it. We rapped and went to do something else.
I don't remember any wobbly flakes or choss on the first 6 pitches (except maybe some low angle stuff on p2). I've done those pitches probably 10 times; most recently in 2006 and 2003.
Claire, trying to step onto the mantle hold from the left, instead of pressing onto it.
Standing on the mantle hold, with the added bolt at chest height.
On my favorite pitch - 5; following the undercling traverse at the end of the pitch, which is tricky to protect for the follower.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Apr 20, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
|
If you hate the upper chimneys just rap down "Paradise Lost" back to the base.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 12:12am PT
|
I used to like to do the first 7 and rap Paradise Lost. Fun to top rope some of those pitches on the way down (cause they're pretty led-out if you lead them, which I've done as well)
For some reason, there's some buggery sandbag 5.9 thin face up high with no pro on the DNB (the last 5.9 in Reid's guide?) at least twice and maybe 3 times I wound up climbing over left up, and then, gripping, then down over right and up, taking an lot of time and climbing about 25 vertical feet in a big circle path.
Seemed ridiculous the second or third time I went the wrong way on it
Another crazy thing is, after Chris Mac released more realistic ratings for this climb, I haven't felt as casual going up there and doing the first 7 anymore. Minds are silly
Peace
Karl
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 12:30am PT
|
It's no longer 5.9?
kinda like Steck salad?
is there a trend?
seems a bit early to me...
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 12:40am PT
|
DNB?
What's not to like???
picky, picky, picky...
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:02am PT
|
DNB = Do Not Bail
There is no "try". Do, or do not.
Yoda
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:47am PT
|
weschrist,
> Are you saying you mantle the thing her right foot is on...
Yes. You are standing on a 6' x 1' ledge, and the mantle hold is about 5' above it, until you step up to some higher footholds. The mantle hold is 1-2" deep, is shaped like /\ and the bolt is about 6" above the hold. The added bolt is about 4' above the mantle hold.
> and where is the bolt at that point? Approximately at her waist? Maybe only an inch or two below and left of her right hand?
In the photo, the bolt is just above her right foot (which is on the mantle hold). The bolt is not visible in the photo.
> I think I somehow came in from the left there... I recall reaching right past a bolt, thinking about threading my finger through it... then realizing if I'm doing to die I might as well do it with dignity and not leave my finger up there... then I set my feet, held my breath, and clipped. Then the little warm fuzzy feelings came.
If you face climb in from the left, it seems to be about 5.11.
Mantling is 5.10b.
Here are a couple more photos which may help:
Claire has just done the lower 5.9 mantle, and is making a thin move up to reach the ledge below the crux mantle. The clipped bolt at the main mantle and the chalked mantle hold are visible (the gold biner on the draw touches the mantle hold and the rope runs right over it).
Claire has unclipped the bolt at the mantle hold and is face climbing to her left of the mantle (there is a little blank corner there with tiny holds). Her right hand is on the mantle hold. The added bolt is visible.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 03:00am PT
|
Seems like it could be a bit early and wet, but I don't know.
I don't agree with "Do Not Bother" at all. It's a great climb, and well worth finishing. The upper pitches are different, so what? Why would anyone be interested in climbing the same perfect crack for the rest of their life? Just get on your 5.11 treadmill and keep going til you puke from boredom. Great walls have always had variety of climbing and challenges on them and always will. Do the whole route. Amen....
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 09:04am PT
|
"If you face climb in from the left, it seems to be about 5.11.
Mantling is 5.10b. "
I've done it always from the left and indeed it seems 5.11. I can't figure out the mantle straight on so I can't imagine it's 10b but I sure could be wrong.
Middle Cathedral, I love-hate that place, taken many of my longest falls there.
PEace
Karl
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 12:04pm PT
|
I thought that was a great climb, at least up to the 7th or 8th pitch, where where we bailed. Some of the scariest moments of my whole climbing career were the raps off the cheesy anchors (this must have been '86 or '87). I think one of them was a jammed knot. But the climbing was excellent.
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
|
I tried this route about 15 years ago. I was comfortable at the grade(s) and was not paticularly adverse to some run-outs. However, I hadn't really done much Yosemite face climbing. I was terrified! We ended up getting thunderstormed off- I've never been so happy to retreat because of rain. The climbing was fine- I even enjoyed the pitches I followed!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
|
mcreel,
In 1987 just after you went up there, our first time up the "good stuff" on DNB, we rapelled Paradise Lost, specifically to beef up those anchors. We added either a quarter inch taper lock or a 5/16" split shaft to each station (kind of a minimal job); -- so you should be good to go, ha!
... then a few days later, we climbed Paradise Lost with decent anchors.
Although the DNB does change in character and quality at mid-height, it's always nice to get full value and top out on stuff, but come to think of it, mostly top out, I think most parties go left on the catwalk anyway right?
I think that when we did North Buttress we kept on going straight up to the top.
My recollection of the first half of the DNB, having done those pitches twice and having done the upper pitches once, is that the intricate climbing on the first half, with a nice mixture of naturally protected face, switching back and forth through folds of clean granite -- all that was pretty sweet stuff.
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 12:56pm PT
|
Yup, if you don't like that, you don't like rock climbin'.
edit: placing 5/16" bolts is no favor to anyone! I did it myself. Charles Cole will certainly do some time paying for that in the future. But 5.10 rubber is great.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:16pm PT
|
Hahaha,
No doubt mcreel.
By modern standards yes; but back in the day, those 5/16" things were beefy and much preferred to the rusty death anchors that were in place at the time on Paradise Lost and elsewhere...
Nevertheless, I think it was actually the quarter-inch taper locks that I used on Paradise lost and I think I remember that jammed knot you're talking about; man that was mank. Right about that time I got pretty good punching in 3/8 as well --and switched over.
|
|
yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
|
clustiere, you get on it or what?
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
|
So, Clint,
Per the Ho Chi Minh Trail --
I recall Mark Chapman? had been working on an alternate finish to the upper bit of the DNB, heading out right toward/onto the thirsty spire; is that pretty much what the Ho Chi Minh Trail wound up becoming?
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
|
I have to say that the 5/16" bolt is certainly worth a 500 post or so wank-fest. I guess that it must have seemed great to people placing bolts in the Valley, but for softer rock it was a great PITA. (wasn't this thing tested in Josh!) Here you were, without money, but trying to put up good routes. You spend a bit more on a stainless steel bolt with a bigger diameter that takes about twice as long to drill, and when you pound the damn thing in it craters the rock all to hell. It was enough to drive you to rap bolting and putting in 3/8" Rawl long lifes, with a Makita. I also did that. Looking back, I'm a lot happier with leaving some decent bolts rather than some eyesore pieces 'o sh#t that are probably not safe by now.
But I also think that overbolting and eating up the adventure for the future generations are problems. This climbing and posting business is so complicated. Vy can't ve chust all play some poker?!
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
|
The DNB is like mountain climbing - the rock will not always be mint, but the adventure is usually high.
JL
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 02:41pm PT
|
That's good enough for me.
Damn, now I want to do the thing again!!
Royster and I had a ball up there. I wouldn't get up it in the same good time right now....ahhhh age, ain't it great?
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 03:09pm PT
|
wes, clint,
the way i recall that 3rd pitch, is more like what wes remembers, although i followed it. i am 5-5 and the crux comes well before the bolts, as you exit the top of that corner moving up and left. if you are taller you just reach through to a semi-jug, otherwise it's a difficult pinch/match/barndoor thing w/ serious fall potential back into that corner. the climbing at the bolts is easier to the point of being humorous.
i was glad to 2nd that pitch, but i did have some excitement up higher where being short is again a disadvantage- what pitch is that where you reach up from the off angle undercling to the scoopy ledge? you are looking down at least a body length from your feet to some marginal gear, over what would be a really bad fall even if it holds you, and i had to dyno it- of course my partner (same height but better climber) did it static on TR from a slightly higher foot, one which i was unable to commit to in light of the consequences.
good route, we got lost transitioning to the turret (p11 or 12?) and after wasting an hour we decided to rap from there (left only 2 runners and a single biner because we had twin 60s). still look fwd to returning and finishing it up.
did the catwalk in the dark after a late start on the north buttress- it's no big deal for a climber capeable of getting there.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
|
mcreel,
There are good rappel anchors to at least p5 of the DNB now (and I think to p6, but I don't remember exactly - I don't usually go that way).
Good chain anchors were added at the end of p5 and atop the p2 pillar sometime in the late 80s/early 90s.
Before that, the anchor atop p5 was an old fixed baby angle and fixed wired nut, which was kinda scary with
p6 starting right off on runout 5.9. In the early 90s, I placed a 5/16" bolt to back up the belay at the end of p3, which was
formerly 2 low fixed pins and some wired nuts.
On that May 2006 trip in the photos above, I added a new bolt/chain anchor to ledge at the end of p7 of the Ho,
where it branches right from the DNB, and replaced the bad bolt on p8 (pitch numbers on the topo; it's easy
to link p6 and p7 with a 60m rope; also p8 and p9).
I found the 5/16" bolts frustrating as well. Apparently it was undersized bits, or maybe a soft rock
problem like you mentioned. The 5/16" bolts on p2 of Perfect Vision are some of the ugliest bolts
people have ever seen. We had to really swing the hammer intensely hard to get the bolt in far enough
to make the hanger flush with the rock. So we ended up hitting the SMC hangers a few times in the
process and the dings are not nice to see. Those bolts are not going to come out easily, either (that
could be good or bad). As a result, Joel bought a Bosch so we could put in better bolts the rest of
the way. Then arguments about bolting next to gear placements, bolting on lead or on rappel, etc.
ensued, unfortunately.
Roy,
I also remember reading that somebody tried an extension out right of the regular DNB finish, but
I couldn't find the source when I went looking. We didn't see much evidence of other people
on those Ho pitches, after the first 2. On those first 2, there was an old Lost Arrow left of where the Ho
eventually went, a pin at the ledge at end of p7, and another at the ledge ending p9. The pitons were
pretty old, and I wonder if that was the original aid line of the DNB. Of course, people could have been free climbing out
there and not left any signs - there are lots of cracks for pro.
weschrist,
Yes, maybe you missed that bolt - it could have been slightly hidden by the mantle hold?
Matt,
Yes, at 5'5", that reachy move leaving the corner on p3 would be way desperate. I can barely
reach the hold, and I'm 6'. I tend to sketch a little on the 5.9 mantle above it, too.
If the route were done as a FA nowadays, there would probably be a bolt right at that 5.9 mantle and
we would probably hardly remember it except for the reach below.... Fortunately doing that section
is within the range of people who are up there to do the rest of the climb.
> what pitch is that where you reach up from the off angle undercling to the scoopy ledge?
you are looking down at least a body length from your feet to some marginal gear, over what would be a really bad fall even if it holds you, and i had to dyno it
p8 of the Ho, with the 5.10c move on the topo. You can get some small cams and tiny nuts there, and there is a fixed pin
which is tantalizingly out of reach, even for me. On the FA, there was a 1' detached flake on the right which I could
stand on to reach up and clip the pin. That flake has since disappeared. In 2006 there was a fixed nut that I didn't trust,
and I ended up just grabbing gear and pulling up to clip the fixed pin before trying the move. I will add another fixed pin there which
is clippable the next time I'm up there (assuming a pin fits well there). I also need to go up and replace the 1/4" Taperbolt
that protects the crux move on p10.
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
Modesto
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
|
geeze, if you bail after the first pitches you didn't do the DNB. It is one of the true classics of Valley climbing.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2008 - 12:43am PT
|
You didn't like the DNB? Why are you even in Yosemite Valley? Try Williamson next time, or maybe any gym.
Whiners.
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2008 - 11:57am PT
|
"geeze, if you bail after the first pitches you didn't do the DNB. It is one of the true classics of Valley climbing."
And if you bail after Freeblast then you haven't done the Salathe wall, another true classic.
Cheers
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
|
Word up!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
|
"I'm notorius for missing stuff."
Now there's a headstone vignette for ya! LOL
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
State of confusion
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2008 - 02:23pm PT
|
People knocking the DNB? I remember how amazed most of
us were in 1977 at the news that Charlie Fowler had
free soloed it. Still a pretty radical accomplishment!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
|
Must do the whole route......
If'n you don't, as they used to say in valley vernacular,
"Yer waay light!"
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
|
First pitch of the DNB, the world's hardest 5.7. Rude way to start the day, I say.
The exit out of the corner on the 3rd is way scary to lead for us shorties. But I've found a nice intermediate ;-)
On the mantle: I've done it always from the left and indeed it seems 5.11. I can't figure out the mantle straight on so I can't imagine it's 10b but I sure could be wrong.
The first couple of times I hit that, I was perplexed. I'm very weak at mantling, so it was A0 for me. Then I found the secret beta, and indeed I think it's .10b. Done it thrice that way.
Gotta watch out for one of those belays, above which is some run 5.9 face (the stuff Karl mentions perhaps?). It might have been from here that two folks ripped their anchors a few years back.
I love Middle, and I love the first part of the DNB (I've got to go back and finish them chimneys though ;-). But, I did find my way up the Ho Chi Mhin. After three tries (but that's another story). Awesome climbing, that is.
|
|
Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 02:31pm PT
|
An alternative descent to the Cathedral Chimney is to go up around the summit of Higher Cathedral Rock and down the spires gully. No snow, no rockfall. From the highest notch several hundred feet of third lead to one 5.6 pitch in what I remember as white rock.
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 02:51pm PT
|
After doing the North Buttress (not the DNB), I also hiked up and over the top of higher. And I would use this descent again. It seems a long way to go, but it is easy hiking. No gulley descent, no catwalk, and no dropping loose rocks on to the climbers hanging out around Central Pillar.
Oh, and I thought the North Buttress was a fun route. The slab/pinnacle at the start is a little vegetated, but no biggie and it is pretty fun after that. A little dirty/loose from lack of traffic (has the feel of a great Sierra route--except for the traffic noise--with a mellow approach/descent).
|
|
HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
|
Is the Ho Chi Mihn trail runout more or less so in comparison to the first 7 of the DNB, they really didn't seem that bad at the grade the scary parts were more one move wonders and the harder parts overall protected decently with good feet rests every so often.
The upper chimneys took it out of us more than the face climbing. The route finding with the traversing stuff around pitch 12 is pretty weird. We called the difficulty crux of the route the start of pitch 10 the polished 5.8 offwidth. We met a euro team where one partner fell and broke his hand here leading. Plenty of pro if you got it. Oh btw this is one route where the supertopo rack makes me laugh lol. Gimme a break we used way more small cams down low and were pysched to have a couple 3s up high. Brought along 2 screamers like Karl's recommendation for clipping some of that old mank.
For 5.10d down lower those pitches weren't strenuous we ended up linking almost every pitch down low and we were intimidated going into they just went much easier overall than we thought they would be. Thats probably why Im always psyched on the bigger rack too hehe.
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 03:17pm PT
|
hey hal-
i had an apple in my pocket as i led that polished 5.8 flare pitch-
apple sauce baby!
hahaha
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
|
Beyond funny, Matt.
Back when we did it in 1983, it was a feared and respected classic. How dare any of you clowns say it shouldn't be on the list.
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
|
It looked like weather was comming in last wed so I went to the grotto instead.
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2008 - 03:09am PT
|
Nice pics hoping to go Wed!!
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2008 - 04:00am PT
|
Went up to do the route and there was a party just starting up. Damn all that drive for nothing.... No we did the E Butt of Lower Cathedral, was good.
How is that N Butt route??
HCM - Noted!
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
|
|
|
May 15, 2008 - 04:14am PT
|
the EBoLCR is way cool, if a bit of a sandy hike at the very top.
we brought along a #4 and i left it behind at the belay on both the pitches i'd brought it for (oops!)
was there webbing hanging from that pin outside of and ovr the flaring angled chimney?
that sh#t was rigid when i ws there a few years back, and of course, as i said, the big cam was on my partner's harness. seems funny now... =)
the NBoMCR is awesome too.
pretty casual to freesolo until the chimney on p4 or p5, otherwise those early pitches would be a hassle, w/ your rope running through bushes and around trees, etc.
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2008 - 03:21pm PT
|
Ok so the North Buttress MC is good. I have been wondering about this for a little while. It seems pretty casual grade wise but I was wondering about pro, route finding and all that. I will have to put this on the hit list.
The webbing resides still, we clipped the pin directly.
|
|
LongAgo
Trad climber
|
|
|
May 16, 2008 - 04:48pm PT
|
clustiere,
Doesn't the rock texture and color in the pics makes you salivate?
What a beauty this is, way up there feel, with just the right tummy twinge about the funny mantle, easy for arm cockers but not for others, but how will it be for you, you wonder, and maybe you find all the beta on the move and pro a bit confusing, thankfully, but soon you crank your head up and see looming the high darker recesses, maybe a bit of loose rock there where you might talk to yourself about setting the pro to keep the rope from rubbing over that bit, and then that bit, caution neurons leaping next to movement neurons. And then there are route options (rap, U bowl, go for it) to hash with your partner before or maybe during and maybe after ("I told you we should have ....") and descent route options too ("Why is this wet, damn it - it's hotter than hell ...") …
Here's wishing you all the fabulous mind jumble making the way home to the flatland like returning to earth from a spaceship, road and restaurants flying by seemingly out of a movie, and causing you years later to tell your kid about it, leaning on a bridge or standing in the meadow, holding your hands together to form a prow and saying, see, it goes there, then there, then ... and getting the quizzical smile back from that small face. Praise the old, crooked, weathered Yosemite giants for they build and build in you and stay and stay, ever larger as time goes by.
O, and another option: if the night is warm, worming into the sand and dozing under the stars ain't so bad either. Let’s see, where’s that little star chart …
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
|
Oh man that was beautiful! Now I gotta
|
|
Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Sorry to revive this thread. Just wondering if anyone has any reasonable gear recommendations for this route. ST says to bring stuff up to 3", but comments that larger gear might come in useful to reduce the runouts on the upper pitches. Is it a good idea to bring 4, 5, or 6"? Second 3"s, RPs? By the way, is there anything harder up there than ahab, generator crack, or the Steck-Salathe cruxes? The ratings in the book make it look easy, but that doesn't seem to be the consensus... Thanks a lot.
Vlad
|
|
punjab
Gym climber
oregon
|
|
impaler-
did the dnb about a month ago, and brought doubles to #3 camalot and maybe a #4. as far as rp's go, we had a few but didn't place many. i think a double set makes linking sections of the upper pitches pretty easy. the upper pitches are neither hard, nor easy...just relentless. overall the climb is amazing and the lower section is un-real! have fun!
matt.
|
|
HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
|
|
2 screamers for clipping crappy pins, a decent set of nuts maybe with a couple of the midsize offsets, 2# 3s, maybe a #4, doubles of small sh#t so you can link/go for it on the face pitches down low. like doubles from blue alien to red alien at least.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
The North Butttress goes way faster and is in no way a Grade V; if you've never been up there it's not a bad idea to learn the descent in the daylight via this route before you get on the much longer DNB.
North Butt topo is from like 1492 and bears only a passing resemblance to the route, and does not include several large landmark features in the immediate neighborhood. Scope it from the meadow.
|
|
Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Thanks for the advice! Can't wait to get on it this weekend.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 55 of total 55 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!