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Janet Wilts
Trad climber
Moose
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 10, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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My mother, Ellen Wilts, passed away last week. She was interested in climbing and climbers to the end. She and my dad climbed back in the era of tennis shoes and kernmantle ropes...
I thought this was a way to get the news of her passing, to old climbing friends of hers.
Janet Wilts
janetwilts@msn.com
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 10, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
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My condolences.
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Mar 10, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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Hi Janet, sorry for your loss. I have many fond memories of your Mom and Dad.
Tony
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scuffy b
climber
up the coast from Woodson
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Mar 10, 2008 - 07:23pm PT
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I'm sorry for your loss, Janet.
As you well know, your folks had a large influence on
a generation of California climbers.
Steve
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 10, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
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My condolences on your loss - another of the climbers from the golden age gone.
There was a good obituary of Chuck Wilts in a Sierra Club newsletter from 1991 - http://angeles.sierraclub.org/about/Obits.asp#wilts
It includes quite a lot about Ellen Wilts.
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Gene
climber
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Mar 10, 2008 - 07:33pm PT
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Janet,
From what I have read, in addition to their own pioneering accomplishments, your Mom and Dad mentored a young man by the name of Royal Robbins back in his early days on rock. Your parents have a tremendous legacy that we try to emulate and honor all these years later. Your parents are the light that illuminates our path.
Godspeed to you and yours,
GM
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 10, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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Janet,
Long time no see. I'm so sorry to hear this sad news. I hope you are healthy otherwise.
May peace be with your mother. I never met her but she left us with some great climbs and will be remembered well amongst all of us.
Peace be with you, John
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Janet Wilts
Trad climber
Moose
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2008 - 07:36pm PT
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Thanks all...and Tony, good to hear from you...hope things are going well in Bishop...and you're still climbing hard..
One of my memories of climbing with my mom, was when we were in Tuoloumne.... I was around 15 years old..(or less).
My dad went to climb with some friends and my mom was left with the kids...So off we went to climb on one of the domes....and as we walked around one of the domes, my mom decided to climb something no one had done...It ended up not being too hard...one hard step-up (5. something) ...but my mom was really excited to do a first ascent with us kids, while dad went to climb harder stuff...hmmmmmmm
But of course we did alot of climbing together...and my mom wasn't left all the time....
Janet
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Mar 10, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Condolences, Janet.
Matthes Crest Traverse alone would have put us all in debt to her and Chuck. She was one of the really important US women climbers of that period.
Thanks for posting--
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SamRoberts
climber
Bay Area
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Mar 10, 2008 - 07:57pm PT
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Sorry for your loss, Janet. I never met your mom, but I have fond memories of skiing with your dad in Baldy Bowl, Pear Lake, etc. I think your sister, Gail, was on one or two of those trips- What ever happened to her?
Take good care!
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
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Janet,
That is sad news indeed. I had the honor of meeting you mother briefly just a few years ago at a slide show she gave. She was a bright and lovely woman. Her slides of climbing in the Canadian Rockies after the war were magnificent. What a life she led.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
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hey there janet... may god bless you as you face this hard loss of your mother... may her memories be special, and unfold, like new, every evening and may they brighten your new days, as well...
very sorry for your loss... god bless..
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
So on my way outta St. Looney!!!
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:23pm PT
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So sorry to hear of this. Our thoughts are with you.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:35pm PT
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Janet:
My sincere condolences on your loss. Your mom was very generous in sharing memories and some pictures when Bob and I did the last update to the Tahquitz guide. Your dad was a true gentleman. They both left significant marks on the California climbing scene.
Best wishes,
R. Vogel
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nita
climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:36pm PT
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Janet and Gail, So sorry to hear about you loosing your Mom..Hope you are comforted by your family memories- together in the Mountains. Take care.. nita
Nothing beautiful in the world is ever really lost. All things beloved live in our hearts forever.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:40pm PT
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When I first started climbing we would run into your mom and dad at Lunch rock occasionaly.
Due to a mixture of reverence and youthfull bluster I never had more than a passing nod and hello of a conversation with them or any of the other RCS bunch.
That's one huge regret!
There are several generations of climbers in their debt.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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It's always sad and difficult when a parent passes away; there's just so much emotional memories that come to the fore. I never met your mother, but it sounds like she was admired by many people. Best wishes to you in this difficult time.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
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My condolences to you and your family, Janet.
Roger
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 10, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
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Very sorry to hear about your mom, Janet. I have very fond memories of spending MANY days at your parents house and they were always such gracious peopole long before I even understood what that meant. I was broke and in grad school and your mom fed me about 1,000 times.
So far as I know there was never such an outdoors couple as Chuck and Ellen Wilts.
I hope you are doing well, otherwise.
Peace to your mom, and to you, Chuck Jr. and Gail.
Sincerely,
John Long
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roy
Social climber
New Zealand -> Santa Barbara
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Mar 10, 2008 - 09:14pm PT
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Hi Janet,
My condolences on your loss. I also remember your father from my days at Caltech. I didn't know him well but it seemed that although he might have been retired from teaching he wasn't retired from climbing. The Matthes crest is a fantastic climb and a great legacy that your parents have left us.
With sympathy, Roy
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 10, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
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My condolences to you and your family and the larger "family" touched by the Wilts' famous generousity.
Ed
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Mar 10, 2008 - 09:37pm PT
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I am very sorry for your loss.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Mar 10, 2008 - 11:40pm PT
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I'm very sorry
Ray
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Mar 11, 2008 - 12:15am PT
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She will be with you forever.... Thank you for sharing your loss.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:05am PT
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Hi Janet,
Long time since we climb together at the City. I do not get up there as much especially since Maura left. I am very sorry to hear of your Mom's passing. It was great fun hearing your stories about them whilst climbing.
Warm regards,
Allen
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:12am PT
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Very sorry Janet. It is nice to see those that knew her have so many good memories.
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10b4me
climber
hanging by a thread
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:27am PT
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please accept my condolences Janet. your parents had a major impact on climbing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 11, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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Sorry to hear, condolences, Janet. Know that hers were some of the shoulders the rest of us stand on.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Mar 11, 2008 - 03:55am PT
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Wow Janet - what a great loss to you,Gail,Chuck jr and the climbing community.
The West Side Route , North Whizz Dome 5.6. F.A. Ellen Wilts and Janet Wilts September 1961
A fitting memorial........
Say hi to Gail for me*
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Mar 11, 2008 - 05:10am PT
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Janet,
Thanks for posting here to give us the news. I never knew your folks, but I know many people here who do. I'm so sorry for your loss.
I read about your folks when I was a kid, when everbody who knew what they were doing in the mountains was a hero to me.
God Bless,
Bruce
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 11, 2008 - 09:28am PT
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My condolences Janet to you, your family and your friends. Your parents' names in guidebooks is one of the more enduring aspects of climbing.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Varied locales along the time and space continuum
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Mar 11, 2008 - 10:42am PT
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I'm sorry to hear about your Mom, Janet. I never met her, but her spirit is strongly imbued in the climbs she pioneered and in the mountains. What a wonderful and unique route Matthes Crest is! I was just there last summer. It's an honor to wallk in her footsteps. Peace and prayers to you and your family. And thank you for sharing your thoughts.
Eric
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Double D
climber
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Mar 15, 2008 - 12:20am PT
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Condolences, Janet. Your mom sounded like an amazing lady.
Dave D.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Mar 16, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
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Really sorry to hear this Janet, peace be to you.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 16, 2008 - 11:46pm PT
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Here's one of the photos I mentioned upthread, 'borrowed' from the Sierra Club's website.
Ellen Wilts, taken in 1949.
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tetonhack
Social climber
jackson wy
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Mar 17, 2008 - 09:13am PT
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Hi Janet, I haven't seen you in a long time, hope you're still gett'n out there. Sorry to hear that news.
Best wishes
Brents
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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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Mar 17, 2008 - 07:39pm PT
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Janet,
My condolences.
Thanks for sharing your family's history with those of us who never knew.
AT
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TomKimbrough
Social climber
Salt Lake City
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Mar 17, 2008 - 08:03pm PT
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Janet - Sorry about your mom! You and Gail come from such a rich climbing heritage and have added your own contributions. I'll stop by while I'm up there in May.
Condolences,
Tom Kimbrough
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Mar 18, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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Sad to hear she is gone. Here's a few bits I found on the internet:
* Will's Climbing Log:
Ascent of Left Ski Track
* Date: Sunday, July 17th, 2005
* Location: Tahquitz
* Area: South Face
* Route: Left Ski Track
* Rating: 5.6 ***
* Type of climb: Trad
* Pitches: 3, I led 3.
* Partner(s): Laura Schrupp
Comments:
This route lived up to its reputation as a spectacular climb. I had done the first pitch before with Aaron, but I hadn't led it. So I got to enjoy the “unbelievably good jugs” on lead this time. The second pitch, with its famous step-around move, was excellent. The picture in the guidebook of Ellen Wilts following this wearing slacks and a button-up blouse, a fashionable wide-brimmed hat, and converse sneakers has always been a favorite of mine. It struck me that it would probably be a bit of a challenge to the fledgling 5.6 trad leader. For one thing, there are some slightly tricky moves, and the step-around itself is pretty heady and exposed, especially for Tahquitz. Furthermore, the whole second pitch, and a lot of the third, are traversing, so it's important to place gear with the follower in mind. For a middle-aged woman in the 1950's, Ellen Wilts was quite a badass. There are a few variations for the third pitch, and wanting to stay true to history, I chose the original one, but I suspect the more direct finish (186b in the book) might have been better. Also, with all the ledges and slightly lacking pro, there were a few moves on this pitch that were a bit scary. I've got to get back to leading harder stuff!
CHUCK AND ELLEN WILTS
Chuck and Ellen Wilts were a well regarded '50's climbing team. On one occasion, a lady tourist was standing on the walkway at Morro Rock in Sequoia Park when Chuck's fingers grasped the last ledge of the arduous south face route they had ascended. The tourist gasped to see this apparition rise. Noticing the wedding band on Chuck's finger, she asked something like "Young man, what would your wife say if she knew you were doing anything this dangerous?" Chuck looked down and shouted, "Hey, Ellen, somebody here wants to know your opinion of this climb!"
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