Discussion Topic |
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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 29, 2008 - 06:35pm PT
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Some friends and I are heading to JTree soon. It'll be my first time. We're 5.10 (and below) climbers, maybe some easy 11's. Trad and sport.
Anybody want to suggest routes we positively must do?
Please provide a short description to induce maximal stoke-nitude.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 29, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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Some of the best times at Josh are found off the beaten track, away from the roads. At 5.10d, Black President probably qualifies as an easy .11 ...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 07:51pm PT
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Nice try Russ!
Lemme see; I got a hanwritten list somewhere's...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2008 - 09:14pm PT
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u4ick
Trad climber
temecula, ca
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Jan 29, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
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COARSE & BUGGY CHECK IT! WORTH THE EFFORT! 5.11
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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Anyone who tells you that Joshua Tree has good routes is an out right lier.
Move along, nothing to see here...
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jan 29, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
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Stanley,
I opted for a blatant plug vs. spamming your email account. You and your friends should check this place out.....
http://www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Special climbers discount available. Shoot me an email for more information.
No matter where you stay, you're guaranteed a great time! Good friends and thousands of routes. Hard to beat. (unless it's cold and the devil winds kick up. Then, you're left wishing you had booked the Sahara house ;)
~Sooze
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 10:58pm PT
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I think that Sidewinder captures the essence of Jtree climbing, so that's my choice (and it's close to the road). Gotta say, though, I haven't climbed 99% of the other routes.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
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Why does everything have to be close to the road?
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
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You're right, scratch that. Please substitute my choice with yours, rlf. I didn't realize a hike was prerequisite.
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
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Nice list Tarbuster, but where's "Run for Your Life" and why isn't "Illusion Dweller" highlighted??
MP
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 12:21am PT
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Run for Your Life isn't on there because, it was meant to be a list featuring primarily naturaly protected routes.
...And I have no idea what the highlights were for, uh, even though I put them there.
The few face climbs that made the list aren't meant to be necessarily the best; just good and worth spicing things up a bit.
A pure face list would be quite large; would be a list in its own right, fer dang sure.
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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 10:28am PT
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Thanks for all the input. Keep it coming!
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u4ick
Trad climber
temecula, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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COARSE & BUGGY 5.11
KICK ASS CRACK, STEAMING, LITTLE BIT OF FACE. 80FT.
TOP ROPE POSSILBE, BUT IT SHOULD BE LED!
GOOGLE IT!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 12:39pm PT
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AS long as everyone is studying Roy's list, we gotta mention that the only way Rubicon is an .11 is if we move it to Red Rocks...
:-)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 01:30pm PT
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Is that what I listed it at?
Thanks for calling that out Ksolem!
10D as I recall.
I say two of the best & most elegant routes:
Hyperion Arch
The Last Unicorn
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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Hey there Roy. Say, that's a nice list of routes! Thanks for posting!
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Standing Strong
Trad climber
heart's all over the world tonight
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Jan 30, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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well, i was in josha tree over the winter break. i don't know what a lot of the areas where i climbed are called because i didn't ask since i think it's nicer to not know. that way you don't have any preconceieved notions about routes - like, o, i can or can't climb THAT grade... but, the one that i did happen to find out the info on is CRYPTIC on headstone rock. that was my favorite one of everything i did down there. the route goes up this cute little arete. "tuolumne_tradster" posted a good photo on the "best aretes ever" thread.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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Cryptic is tres-neato!
'Glad you enjoyed the list Steelmonk...
I have some topos of link ups of that stuff.
I'll dig 'em up in a bit.
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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I'd put " The Flake " on the list also. Another good one is "Hands Off". "Negro Girls" is a great face climb. Be cautious on the second pitch. Oh, that's right, I remember now, there is no second pitch. I wondered why there was no pro for about 120 feet. It was thrilling, though.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Hey Roy! Say, that would be great to see some linkup info for those. I gotta go through and see how many I have left to knock off the list. I was surprised how many I've already done.
Whassup with the "10 Hound Rocks" and "10 White Cliffs" notation? Right or Left Baskerville Cracks? Popular Mechanics? Ace of Spades?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:42pm PT
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hey there.............say..........
Must do's are:
Desert Song
Trespassers Will Be Violated
EBGB's
Comfortably Numb
Pat Adams Dihedral
Left Ski Track
More Monkey Than Funky
Rainy Day Dream Away
Imaginary Voyage
Living Conjunction
all in the fake 5.11/10d range
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 03:59pm PT
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Yah,
Do living conjunction first!
The rest will seem like another sport.
(heh, heh, heh)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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"10 Hound Rocks" and "10 White Cliffs" notation?
Steel:
I just got lazy.
Pretty much what you listed, plus more knockin' around there.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 30, 2008 - 04:06pm PT
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These were day trips, more about quality than quantity.
Usually with a fair bit of driving & draggin' to & fro on the feet to link up the routes.
And don't look to them as the most efficient way between lines either, as this tom-foolery was not so well pre-meditated.
On the last topo, we were heading to Okelley's crack, but had a low speed head on collision, so that cut the topo short right there after pitch 6, Rubicon (there's that 5.11- rating, hmmmm)...
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:24pm PT
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
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Roy...It's as though you always knew that someday their'd be a Supertopo. ;-)
Neat old 'topos'.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:32pm PT
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:37pm PT
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jan 30, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 30, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
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Yeah there are a couple good ones there...
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Jan 30, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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On the last list I saw "Taxman" at 5.9. I'm now going to my laughing room and will be there quite some time.
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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2008 - 02:43pm PT
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I'm getting really excited about JTree.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 31, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
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5.8 plus?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Jan 31, 2008 - 03:26pm PT
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Roy - I love those topo's. That stuff is great!
(I wasn't trying to call you out on that rating thing, just havin' silly fun..)
We always used to have a joke about Josh grades, and how they really work this way: .10a, .10b, .10c, .9+, .11a, .11b, .11c, 5.10d, .11d, and so on.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 31, 2008 - 04:28pm PT
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I always thought calling WaterChute 5.9 was...different
I guess it falls into the "rating starts 15 feet off the ground"
category.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 31, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
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Kris, my experience of Josh ratings goes something like this:
5.8, 5.7, 5.7+, 5.9, 5.8+, 5.10b, 5.10a, 5.11a, 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.11c, 5.11b, 5.12a, 5.11d.
And to match up routes to that sequence:
Sail Away, Smooth as Silk, Double Cross, Working Overtime, Continuum, Effigy Too, I can't believe it's a Girdle, Swept Away, Imaginary Voyage, OKellys or Clean and Jerk, Wangerbanger, Digital Watch or Pat Adams, Beaver, Scary Monsters or 29 Palms.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 31, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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29 Palms is not 11d if you have fat fingers, and More Monkey is not 11b if you have fat hands. Both routes are bleak for big folk, though something like Morongo Man is easier than if one had thin mitts.
So far as great routes at Josh, I think the Beaver is hard to top. Likewise, Imaginary Voyage and Bird of Fire and both O'Kelly cracks. And 10,000 more routes besides . . .
JL
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Cassidy
Trad climber
Nova Scotia
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Jan 31, 2008 - 07:48pm PT
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Sail Away 5.8
Illusion Dweller ~5.10a/b
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 31, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Hobbit Hole OW in a stone-drunk frenzy, by moonlight.
BHMG, pure JTree.
Surface Tension -- yike!
Chongo's Traverse (one on the list...)
For new age, check out The Way of Life.
Also pure Josh, Freak Brothers domes, I Can't Believe It's A Girddle.
PS. I don't see folks doing Deliverance anymore...that used to be so popular.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 31, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
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Largo has it pretty dialed there with his tick...I always loved The Baby Apes myself... It might have something to do with the drop knee move I used at the crux...Although BVB has got the patent on that one...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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One ah mah fave 5.8's: Savwafare ist Everywhere.
Good rock, clean moves, all in all -splendid!
Far end of the Real Hidden Valley.
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u4ick
Trad climber
temecula, ca
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White lighting is a super good warm up! not far from the road. its very popular get there early! 5.7 crack 100ft.?
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