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Bequita
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 27, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
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It is with great sadness that I share the following obituary for Chuck Kroger. He valiantly fought pancreatic cancer for 5 months, but on Christmas day he peacefully left us. His wife Kathy was by his side and grateful for all the friends and family who supported her and Chuck through this difficult time. Kathy reads Supertopo often, and I know she will enjoy hearing stories from all of Chuck's friends. A good friend of Chuck's once called him "the king of the one-day adventure"- it was a designation he loved. May we all smile and think of Chuck as we continue such adventures.
CHARLES FREDERICK “CHUCK” KROGER
(1946 – 2007)
Chuck Kroger of Telluride passed away on December 25th in Denver, Colorado from pancreatic cancer after a five month valiant battle. Chuck was a man of many adventures that spanned many continents and were shared with friends from all over the world. Chuck was born on Dec. 1, 1946 in Iron River, Michigan. At 6 months, his family returned to Kalispell, Montana. A lifelong builder, artisan and tinkerer, he refused to go to kindergarten so he could continue helping his Dad and carpenters build their house there. His family later moved to Southern California, first to Pomona and then to Riverside, although he remained connected to Flathead Lake through summers spent at the family’s cabin. Chuck spent his summers on family hikes, camping trips, learned about boating and rowing, went timber cruising and worked some summers at the family sawmill.
Chuck graduated from Riverside Poly High School in 1965. During high school, he raced bikes and started going on Sierra Club hikes. Chuck attended UC Riverside for one year and was on the cross country track team before transferring to Stanford University. At Stanford, he majored in geophysics, and delved deeper into his lifelong passion for rock climbing, bouldering, and mountaineering. His senior year, Chuck was president of the Stanford Alpine Club. When Chuck graduated from Stanford in 1969, one of his professors commented that Chuck has spent more time climbing rocks than studying rocks than any previous student.
Chuck’s climbing career included being the first person to climb four routes on El Capitan in Yosemite in a single season (1968-69). He also did the first ascent of the Heart Route in 1970. His climbing took him all over the world, including trips to Alaska, the Alps, the Soviet Union and South America. Chuck’s climbing feats were chronicled in several climbing history books, which referred to him and his friends as the first of the “college boy weekend climbers,” capable of climbing as well as the full time Camp 4 climbers.
Chuck’s formative work experience, pursued between climbing and sailing trips, included guide work at several mountaineering and climbing schools in California and Wyoming, leading Sierra Club hikes all over the west, working as a carpenter and with Yvon Chouinard at Great Pacific Iron Works, which later became Patagonia. Chuck honed his construction and management skills and Spanish by building aquaculture facilities for the University of Arizona in Rocky Point, Mexico.
Chuck met Kathy Green, his wife of thirty years and partner in his adventures, in the Grand Canyon. After tying the knot in Las Vegas between escapades, they found their way to Telluride in 1979 where they established BONE Construction. Between remodels and new construction, Chuck Kroger’s creativity and attention to detail is recognizable throughout the Telluride region. He also went to Antarctica six times, working on National Science Foundation-funded grants, as a mountaineer and safety consultant.
Chuck Kroger turned his passion for movement to running and mountaineering in Telluride. A well-known face in mountain distance running, he was a six-time finisher in the Hardrock 100 (mile race) and also ran the Get High Race, the Imogene Pass Run and other events. He spent long hours hiking and exploring the mountains of Telluride, with friends, family (especially his father) and anyone with the stamina to keep up with him.
An inveterate tinkerer, he invented a line of rail-bikes, converted road and mountain bikes designed to run on railroad tracks. With friends, he would seek out (mostly) abandoned rail lines in the US and elsewhere to ride. He also made old snowboards into board sleds. When the Dolores River would freeze over he would take friends ice-biking.
Volunteerism was a major theme in Kroger’s life. He spent time in Mexico with an organization called Corazon, building simple houses, and also with Habitat for Humanity in Montrose. Some of the trails in the Telluride area are more usable as a result of his expertise in trail-building and maintenance.
Kroger had a slight problem with authority that led to a string of what might be considered dubious accomplishments. While at Stanford, he and friends pioneered the sport of “buildering,” traversing a ledge on the chapel, several ascents of the Golden Gate Bridge, and arduous trips through vents between buildings. He was also part of the “Valley Floor Seven,” a group of cross-country skiers prosecuted for trespassing after community relations with the San Miguel Valley Corporation soured and access to the valley floor was denied. He got off with probation.
A self-taught welder, Chuck used that knowledge to create one-of-a-kind practical architectural elements in the homes he built and also created a host of artwork which was often donated to local nonprofit groups for fundraising. The Ah Haa School and the Telluride AIDS Benefit auctions included such unique pieces as “The Puker” and “Very Sharp Chairs” which started intense bidding wars. In addition, his metal train stands and picture frames became local collectables.
His philosophy regarding his art work, that it should make people laugh and that it should probably move as well, summarizes Chuck’s life: always going places, making things, and bringing joy and laughter into people’s lives.
Chuck Kroger is survived by his wife, Kathy Green, of Telluride, his parents, Robert and Isabel Kroger of San Diego, California, his sister, Kathryn Kroger, and his nephew, Jeremy Kroger. A Telluride celebration of Chuck’s life is planned for the summer of 2008 so that his far-flung friends may attend.
In lieu of flowers, contributions can be made to Telluride Mountain Club, PO Box 2128, Telluride, CO 81435.
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Conrad
climber
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Dec 27, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
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Dear Kathy, family and friends of Chuck,
Our condolences to all of you with Chuck's passing. He was a man strong beyond words and an inspiration to many. His smile and enthusiasm for life will be with us as we continue on with our struggles in the physical world.
My favorite Chuck memory is the black and white picture of El Cap that he "took" years ago. More than one way of taking pictures was his reply.
Let's run a long distance, climb a pitch and donate some of our time in memory of Chuck.
Kind regards,
Conrad
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 27, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
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A truly sad bit of news but thank you for your thoughts in memory. A full life to be sure just ending too soon.
From The Stanford Alpine Club history by John Rawlings and Glen Denny, 1999. I will post the chapter on Chuck's activities a little later.
I am glad that he died peacefully and my sincerest condolences to friends and family. Big loss to the climbing world.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Dec 27, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
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The man was bold & visionary. Sorry to hear of his passing. My condolences to his family & friends. Didn't he do an early ascent of Tephite Dome as well as the Heart Route? I'm sure he will be missed.
Bill
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 27, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
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Very sad news - although I didn't know Chuck, my condolences to his wife, family and friends.
Several months ago Steve Grossman posted Chuck's story on the first ascent of the Heart Route, as it appeared in Climbing Magazine in 1971. See http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=474787
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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Dec 27, 2007 - 02:12pm PT
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Kathy says, "Laugh some, don't just cry."
I'm too overwhelmed at the moment to share my comical tales of Chuck.
What a loss.
Anne-Marie
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 27, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
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Chuck's climbing exploits on the Stanford Campus were legendary. Then there was that Hoover Tower incident! A true pioneer on many fronts!
Bruce
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captain chaos
climber
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Dec 27, 2007 - 03:37pm PT
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It saddens my heart to hear this news... the climbing world just lost one of its finest pioneers, my condolences to all family and friends... Craig
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 27, 2007 - 03:46pm PT
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Chuck's inspirational spirit, generousity, modesty, humor, and enthusiam for life will be sorely missed but never forgotten.
My condolences to Kathy and to the many, many people who loved the man.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 27, 2007 - 04:34pm PT
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While I never met him, he was an inspiration to a budding adventurer, his memory will endure.
Two proud FA's in the Valley:
The Heart Route 5.9 A4 VI El Capitan Southwest Face 1970 Chuck Kroger Scott Davis
Nickel Pinnacle, East Face 5.8 A2 III Middle Cathedral Rock 1968 Chuck Kroger Kep Stone
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Dec 27, 2007 - 09:04pm PT
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I shared a rope with Chuck once in late 70's. Shiprock. He turned me on to "stealth climbing" techniques. Tan clothes, tan rope, drop off before sunrise (I think that was Kathy - thanks), escape car returns in late afternoon. ha. The rumors of the local Indians taking pot shots at climbers made for more excitement than the actual climbing. But fun was had be all.
My condolences to family, and may Chuck rest in peace.
My second friend this year to fall to cancer.
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 27, 2007 - 09:50pm PT
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Chuck's other proud accomplishment in 1970:
FA of the Southwest Face of Tehipite Dome, VI 5.9 A4.
...as far as I can tell, the route has not been repeated. In 1997, one of his 4" sheet steel bongs was found sitting on the ledge at the base of the upper part of their route.
My condolences to Kathy and your family.
RIP Chuck! You were an inspiration!
 ec
Tehipite Dome, Tehipite Valley, Kings Canyon National Park, CA
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 27, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
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From The Stanford Alpine Club, 1999. John Rawlings' and Glen Denny's excellent book.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 28, 2007 - 12:05am PT
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hey there.... say, to chucks dear family, i will pray for your fond memories and love toward chuck to carry you through your loss of him.... so very sorry, as to your loss...
i just read this:
Chuck’s climbing career included being the first person to climb four routes on El Capitan in Yosemite in a single season (1968-69). He also did the first ascent of the Heart Route in 1970. His climbing took him all over the world, including trips to Alaska, the Alps, the Soviet Union and South America. Chuck’s climbing feats were chronicled in several climbing history books, which referred to him and his friends as the first of the “college boy weekend climbers,” capable of climbing as well as the full time Camp 4 climbers.
thank you all for showing us some more history and another of the special folks that helped to forge it... we would not know, if you did not share...
once again, god bless you at this hard time...
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Dec 28, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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i didn't know chuck well. My wife, pam and i stayed with Him for a few days when we ran the 30 mile "telluride get high" trail race and for four days we just began to get acquainted with his wife kathy and Him.
I liked Him immedaitely. He just so seemed unconventional. But in a GRAND WAY. I admired His style. Strong. Individual. Unconventional. Not exactly like an outlaw but sorta...........
I repeated His Heart Direct route on El Cap and strived to emulate it in the style that He first did it. PURE. Not tainted.
In His climbing and in His life it seemed like He could not settle for less than what He thought was possible and He needed to push for more. Restless. Original. He was ambitious. He was smart and creative and He was proud. I have a background in architectural design. So did He. All night long we would talk about new ideas for interior design and He would get all excited about incorporating old Coloradian western style with new stuff. He was an original architect. EXCITED. He had alot of ideas. ENERGY. He wanted to fuse different styles and got all excited about His future houses and designs. There were so many cool things to do out there. His style was original. It was BONE! It was soooooooooooo COOL!
He acknowledged His participation in climbing history but didn't dwell on it or make it overly important. He did what He did and moved on...........to newer and more exciting stuff. He still loved to climb but found new passions and set new goals.
Climbing was something He did and learned from but then that led to other exciting things in life. Kathy, travel, design.
The weekend I spent with Him and kathy has stuck in my mind as something important and i will never take it for granted. He was excited about His life, his marriage to kathy and His business. i felt His enthusiasm and joy. It was real. I still have the pictures and the memories. it happened yesterday.
I guess i just feel like i should NEVER take anyone for granted. i just never know when someone might just go away.
Forever.
I try and appreciate people for when they are here: when and while i can and give as much back as i can. I would have liked to have known Chuck better. I never gave Chuck enough. i am so glad we had those few days together.
JACK
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ec
climber
ca
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Dec 28, 2007 - 01:07pm PT
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worthy of a bump...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 28, 2007 - 01:12pm PT
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I never met him, but he was an inspiration. Condolences and positive vibes to the family.
The same malignancy that took my dad, suddenly and unexpectedly at 56.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 29, 2007 - 09:08am PT
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Chuck's railbike engineering was, like all his designs, very innovative. I never got a chance to ride one of his creations, but from all accounts they were the best out there.
Here's a website on railbikes for those not familiar with them: http://rrbike.freeservers.com/
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Dec 29, 2007 - 09:14am PT
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Condolences to all. His inspiration lives on...
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Dec 30, 2007 - 10:26am PT
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bump...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 30, 2007 - 11:18am PT
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I have to contribute to this thread. Chuck was really unique, obviously became even more so as the decades added up. I knew him in the early 1970’s. He and Davis beat Peterson and I to the FA of the Heart Direct, much to our dismay, and my private relief. Chuck was incredibly independent, bowing to no one, deeply interested in being here, and at the same, unusually casual about it. Very nice, classy guy. Although we all do go, it is a bitch when we do. And for him, a rather tough way to go too. And I also had been hearing about him through Rob Miller (Platinum Rob) who knew him from Telluride. I thought that Chuck was fighting cancer for quite awhile, much more than 5 months, but some years.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 30, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
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When Chuck was up on El Cap in the late 60s it was almost like an unchartered ocean, and he (and Scott Davis), a kind of Columbus or de Leon. Should the rest of us be so lucky to have had those kinds of experiences . . .
JL
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 30, 2007 - 12:42pm PT
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Yeah, Johno. There were only 7 routes by that point, and all the really desperate, exposed routes were still left to be done. Though Robbins called it “a mopping up operation”, actually unbelievably important climbing was still to be done, all over the Stone. It wasn’t even clear if such climbing could be done by anyone, and how. The sense terror and wonder was constant! Those seven routes were classic expressions of a previous generation, RR's and Frosts et al. But they did not in the end actually comprise what would be the only definitive statement made on features and in the Valley.
I certainly do envy Chuck’s and Scott’s experience on that route....it was only a matter of two or three days that Peterson and I missed out. I have to think it might not have gone well though; Don was very hard to be around and the route was not trivial. But back to your point, those really were incredibly adventurous years. Looking up at El Cap and other huge walls was very very different than what it is like gazing on the formation today. The big wall free climbing movement has restored or rather turned the corner for us and made those routes, though not everlastingly tame, completely fresh again in really challenging ways, really creative ways. But I do, as you do, actually yearn a lot, for that same sense of absolute otherworldliness one got, just walking along the base back in the early 1960’s and for a bunch of years afterwards.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 30, 2007 - 03:20pm PT
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The Valley walls were wilderness in the truest sense a half century ago. Salathe showed us the way with style and RR, Frost and Harding, to mention a few, took up the gauntlet with gusto. In conversation with TM Herbert about the time period, he made the observation that once he and Yvon had completed the Muir Wall in impeccable style in 1965 "it had all been done" and the game moved on to the bigger ranges. Just a little hard to wrap your mind around that concept. El Cap climbed out in 1965 with a half dozen routes in place!
Chuck and Scott were the next generation to raise the bar in a meaningful way with respect to preparation and style.
Peter- were you guys also eyeing up the Dawn Wall area before moving left for a project? Did you experience any pressure or deterence from the Bridwell/Schmitz camp or did you have some local immunity? Doing a long route with Peterson could have been pretty interesting ala Tis-sa-ack. LOL
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 30, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
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Hi Steve, actually there was “work” already being done on the beginning of the Dawn Wall area, sort of. A fixed line was hanging there forever. Schmitz/Bridwell were kind of tinkering around with it and were having a hard time just charging the thing. They were quite worried about it as one expect, back 37 years ago. The Aquarian was the next I think, and they took quite a bit of time getting that done too. We were all intimidated and worried about the next level of wall climbing; we knew it was going to be just so very hard and dangerous. And we were right of course. Plus the previous generation had not seen much more to do, so we had to wonder if we were really off-based risking our lives in renewed interest in Big Routes On The Capitan! Maybe the Grand Adventure was out of it, but the technical ferocity was ramping up something horrible!
Yeah, a long new, unknown route with Don P......thank god that did not happen. Bridwell and Schmitz wanted us to go up on the Heart Direct line immediately, and it was more their idea than mine, frankly. They were friends and partners of mine btw, and we were already kind of pooling resources and info, in our manner of very early Stonemasters. In fact they were quite pushy, in a good way, and were keeping tabs on Kroger. Scott and Chuck were total outsiders, just blew in from Stanford, no less, and encountered a reasonably cool attitude from us but not much better. Don and I were not going to fix the route either, just alpine-style it, just as they did. They just kind of took a mild mannered, low key and private approach, as one always has to when competing for an important FA, and bam, then it was done a week and half later. Great, novel, fresh approach and obviously a tremendous experience for the two of them.
I saw Chuck once more, a few years later at Stanford, congratulated him heartily and tried to make friends with him, but he was actually rather vacant and unresponsive to everyone.
best PH
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 30, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
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Several times up thread, people have referred to the route as the "Heart Direct", rather than the Heart Route. The latter being the name the Kroger and Davis gave the route, avoiding use of the word "wall". In the absence of a previous route in the area using the word "heart", it seems a bit odd to call it the Heart Direct. But perhaps there's a story there.
Even in relation to the feature called the Heart, the route doesn't seem all that direct. I suppose the Salathe could be considered the Heart Indirect, but that's stretching it a way.
It sounds like Kroger and Davis were known in the Valley, just that they didn't stay there much. Four ascents of El Capitan in a year, including the third of the North America Wall and the sixth of the Dihedral, and all in good time/style, speak for themselves.
When was the second ascent of the Heart Route?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 30, 2007 - 11:42pm PT
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Anders, , that is right they would not hang with us but were good wall climbers obviously. And adventurers. They hit the Valley at the right time for the plums they picked and did deserve these various ascents. There were social differences between us that they kept discrete and clear, albeit passively. Kind of a Palo Alto thing; I won’t go on about this but I have spent an enormous amount of time there professionally over 40 years and my dad got his PhD there as well. And I know of what I speak. But beyond this, it seems that very often it has been the outsiders that got things moving. We have tended to get stuck as locals.
The Heart Route was originally called the Heart Direct amongst us prior to it actually having been climbed in 70. Since it was their ascent, I should be calling it that, but it has been ever so long ago now that I did in fact slip up and someone never returned my Big Wall Yosemite book.... It certainly is not out of disrespect. Chuck and Scott’s title is just fine of course; just force of habit after all these years. And as far as being “direct” or not, after the highly wandering Salathe, just about any route nearby would have to be termed “direct” Anders! And there were hardly any routes at all on El Cap then.
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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Dec 30, 2007 - 11:46pm PT
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First, I became friends with Kathy Green. She was a ranger in the valley in the mid-70s, I think working the new concept of a "mall ranger" coupled with "shuttle bus ranger." For those of you who were lucky enough to be there, she was the tall one with curly red hair---no perms needed for her. She lived up to her last name by starting the first recycling center in the valley and, off-duty, hauling all her stuff around in a little red wagon. She broke the mold for a LE ranger and befriended most of the mall C4 bums and had us all over to her house regularly for showers and chow and heat and company. I met Mike Corbett through her…
Kathy was already involved with Chuck by that time, but they were doing the long-distance romance thing.
So finally, Chuck came to visit and we met and decided to climb a short route for fun. Some left-facing book on the Apron. However, the crack was running with water. Chuck easily led the first pitch but I could barely get off the ground. I was embarrassed but Chuck said it was a good day anyway.
Throughout the ensuing 30+ years, I've stayed friends with them both. Visits back and forth, mainly at their home in Puerto Penasco, then Telluride, and some at my homes. We waned in and out of seeing each other but always kept in touch.
Chuck introduced me to trail running, an endeavor he loved. In fact, it was only after dropping out of the Hardrock 100 this year (which he had completed many years) that he was diagnosed with the pancreatic cancer.
He was unconventional but in an unaffected way, just a brilliant mind---when he asked questions, he was truly inquiring---in a hard body of a man who never seemed to comb his hair. He was at ease in the outdoors as in dining at the Ahwahnee (and dressed the same for both).
Kathy and Chuck were the most generous people I've known, period. Hosting everyone with warmth and equanimity and concern for them. Just after he died, Kathy wrote, "Early in his illness, Chuck told me that our best asset was all of our friends ...he was so right."
Anne-Marie
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 31, 2007 - 12:10am PT
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Anne-Marie wrote: Chuck told me that our best asset was all of our friends ...he was so right.
The older I get the more I believe that friends are one's only asset. I know that Chuck had a stack of them, meaning he died a rich man.
JL
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 31, 2007 - 10:02am PT
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Has anyone been up Chuck's Via Ferrata in Telluride? It sounds like a masterpiece. Would love to hear more about it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 31, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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Chuck repeated the Spring Route 5.9 A4 on Baboquivari Peak near my hometown Tucson back in the seventies. I believe that he bagged the third ascent before 1975 when I did the fourth. The route is usually done as a short grade VI and was put up by Bill Forrest and George Hurley as an even longer route below Lion's Ledge in the early seventies. Does anyone know who Chuck's partner was for that adventure? I don't think that he soloed the route. It was the first mention of his name that I can recall outside of the Heart Route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Anders- From RR's El Cap commentary tabulation in Mt. 25, the second ascent of the Heart Route happened in 1971 and went to Jimmy Dunn, Roy Klingfield and the late Dr. Andrew Embick in six days! The Heart Route required only 27 bolts making it even that much more impressive.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Amazing to me that I don't think I ever met Chuck, but he was an inspiration. As an outsider to the Valley, he would show up, do a good route or two, and leave. This was counter to the local wisdom that you needed a long Valley apprenticeship before doing anything hard. Chuck and Scott were a bit like Kor in that regard--go anywhere, climb anything.
I'm sorry he's gone.
-Jeff
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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He was one of the first people I knew to take up unicycling. And then that unicyle went on every road trip.
Anne-Marie
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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God's speed sir.
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Weekend Warrior
Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
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I last saw Chuck in April 1972. Despite the lapse of almost 36 years, I remember our few encounters clearly.
When I arrived at Stanford in 1967, I was an aspiring distance runner who knew nothing of climbing, but fate decreed that my roommate would be Russ Van Dyke. While he also arrived with no climbing knowledge, he encountered SAC on reg day and signed up. While I was running on the frosh X-country team, Russ was learning to climb.
At the end of X-country season, I developed tendonitis in my Achilles tendon. Despite treatments, this condition persisted through track season and into the summer. When I returned in the fall of 1968, my tendon was still not fit for competitive running, Russ was, once again, my roommate and I was ready to try climbing. Chuck was Club president and BCOC.
My first trip to Yosemite was the traditional 1st outing to Tuolumne. Chuck was one of the trip leaders. On Saturday, he took a group of other beginners to do something which at this date is irretrievably lost in the archives. Meanwhile, I was doing my 1st 5th class rock climb, The Great White Book, with Russ and Ken Cox On Sunday, the Club went en mass to the Echo Peaks, where I saw Chuck in action for the first time.
The second and last time -- and the only time I climbed with him -- was on a Club trip to the Valley a short time later. Chuck, another beginner whose name I no longer recall, Russ and I headed to the base of El Cap. Chuck and the other beginner stopped to do the Right Side of Little John. As Russ and I headed for La Cosita's Left Side, we wondered about this choice as we knew that Chuck's partner couldn't climb 5.8.
Arriving at La Cosita, Russ took the sharp end and headed up the hill. About 40' up, he fell, pulled a pin (yes, piton) that he'd just placed and continued plummeting earthward. Fortunately, his next piece held and I stopped him about 10' off the deck. Russ had suffered only a few scrapes, but he was in no frame of mind to continue -- and I was no leader. While we sat wondering how we would retrieve the gear, Chuck and company walk up; his partner having failed to get very far on Little John. Problem solved: Chuck led, effortlessly it seemed to me as I struggled to follow. Chuck then TR'ed the 5.9 variation, while I and the others watched in amazement.
By April 1972, I thought I was ready for a bigger El Cap route, The Nose. So, in early April, Chip Caroon, Rick Boyce and I set out in a downpour. It rained all day and into the night. We got soaked. After spending a miserable night on Sickle, the 3 of us and 2 haul bags stuffed inside a 2 person tube tent, dawn greeted us with black clouds whipping though the Valley accompanied by brief showers. We were in no mood for more rain and while we sat glumly trying to decide if we should bail, Chuck walked up to the base. We had difficulty understanding him, but, as I learned later, he could understand us well. We, of course, wanted to know what the weather forecast was. Chuck, after some smart ass remarks, let on that it was supposed to clear. It did and we continued.
So long, Chuck. You cast a big shadow back when I was learning to climb. My heart goes out to your friends and family.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 24, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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Thanks for the link Anne-Marie.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
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Here is an obscure Yosemite Kroger route from Roper's green guide. Who is Kep Stone? Anyone done this route?
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 31, 2008 - 12:59pm PT
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Chuck will be missed by all those who knew him. His achievements have been well documented by others. But the essense of Chuck was his sense of adventure. Stories abound of his enthusiasm to try new adventures--whether they be new routes on El Cap, sailing across the oceans, opening up new terrane in Antarctica, or hiking around the San Juans. A typical Chuck story (unreported) happened to me back in the early 1970s. Chuck and I were sitting on Heart Ledge on El Capitan, stalled out by rainstorms while attempting a new route on El Cap (which later became Magic Mushroom). After 3 days of testing our new rain tent fly and concluding it "just didn't work", we gave up and rappelled down to the valley floor. Now here is when the real Chuck revealed itself. Rather than mope about the weather or failure, we drove straight to Ventura. Only 12 hours after being on Heart Ledge we were now in the ocean in a small sailboat heading for the Channel Islands. Of course a major storm taught me the value of Chuck's needle and thread knowledge as he sewed up the ripped sail in an attempt to keep us alive! Moral of the story--Chuck was a true adventurer and never let anything get him down, not even his illness. Talented and strong, we will all miss his sense of adventure and insight into the world as he experienced it, and we experienced it with him.
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Hi,
I am Chuck Kroger's wife. I don't know all the forum lingo, but I guess I am a "lurker" on Super Topo. I started "lurking" last spring to find out about the once and future book on the Airplane crash. I played a minor role as the ranger who took the first report of a plane crash found in Lower Merced Pass lake.
I am trying to adjust to life without Chuck. It is not easy. I have eagerly read the postings here and learned more about Chuck and his climbs from before I knew him. I am trying to figure out who many of you all really are. I drove the get away car for a lot of Shiprock climbs and have no clue of who Rockermike is and which climb that was.
To attempt to answer Steve's questions about Chuck's Baboquivari Peak climbs. Chuck spent parts of 1974 & 1975 living in Tucson doing construction work. I am not sure who his various climbing partners were. I think he might have done a first ascent at Cochise Stronghold in that time period. In December 1975, Chuck went to work for the U of A in Puerto Penasco and was there off and on for 3 1/2 years. During the Penasco time, he did at least one big wall on Baboquivari with Walt Venum (old Stanford climibing mate) and Pat Ellinwood (Pat's first Grade V climb, I think). I will see if Walt knows what other Baboquivari climbs Chuck did and with whom.
Thank you to everyone for sharing your Chuck stories and all the condolences. We will have a Celebration of Chuck's Life on August 2 in the Telluride Town Park starting in the late afternoon.
I am trying to laugh more than I cry. Chuck loved to laugh.
Kathy
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Pull up a chair and stay a while Kathy, if you please. Any thoughts or reflections on Chuck or yourself are entirely welcome here.
Thanks for the Babo info. I know Pat Ellinwood and would love to track down Walt Venum for more details.
Best wishes to you at this difficult time. I will be in touch soon.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Kathy,
My condolences to you and your family. I first went to Yosemite in 1973, so I never met Chuck, but I knew him by reputation and by the respect that was shown when the story of Kroger and the first ascent of Heart Route came up around the campfire in Camp 4.
You were a ranger around the time of the plane crash! I got there that spring right after it occurred. Did you ever man the entrance stations? And did you ever let dirtbag climbers get in the park for free because they claimed they were on the rescue team? If so, my belated thanks.
Rick Accomazzo
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Though only having met in passing (as I had a number of friends who lived in the Krogers' rental units adjacent to their home) I can say that as a resident of Telluride, Chuck & Kathy's presence and tenure in the wacky little mountain town made the place even greater. I would walk by their home every morning and night from my own residence --a permanently-parked yellow school bus just uphill, and across the county line-- amazed at the tinkerings and interesting signage and, well, all the outstanding honest relaxed responsible generous vibes. It feels pretty hippy-dippy putting it that way, but I am certain that if such good folks had not staked their claim, Telluride would truly be in ruin. Thank you Chuck.
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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Just a reminder that the celebration of Chuck's life will take place in Telluride on August 2.
I'll be there!
Here's the info:
A CELEBRATION OF CHUCK KROGER’S LIFE WILL BE HELD SATURDAY, AUGUST 2 @ 4:30 PM
IN THE TELLURIDE TOWN PARK. A POT LUCK DINNER AND MUSIC WILL FOLLOW THE CELEBRATION.
THE TWO FILMS ABOUT CHUCK THAT WERE MADE FOR MOUNTAIN FILM 2008 WILL BE SHOWN FRIDAY AFTERNOON 8/01, SATURDAY AFTERNOON 8/02 AND SUNDAY NOON & AFTERNOON 8/03 AT THE NUGGET THEATER IN DOWNTOWN TELLURIDE.
THE FOLLOWING TELLURIDE HOTELS ARE OFFERING SPECIAL RATES FOR PEOPLE COMING TO THE CELEBRATION:
Mountainside Inn 970-728-1950
Queen Bed or Queen Bed plus twin - $107.00 - 22 units
Kitchenette Queen Bed or Queen Bed plus twin - $107.00 - 53 units
One Bedroom Suite - King Bed or Queen plus twin - $152.00 - 7 units
*Riverview rooms available for $10.00 additional per night*
The Victorian Inn 970-728-6601
Queen bed room - $119.00 - 14 units
2 Queen bed room - $129.00 - 14 units
Deluxe room with Kitchenette - $139.00 - 2 units
Cozy Guest Cottage - 1 Queen and 2 twins, full kitchen - $199.00 - 1 unit
San Sophia Bed and Breakfast 970-728-3001
15% off regular room rate for an average of $145.00 - 16 units
Telluride Town Park has a nice small campground but no reservations – if anyone wants to camp, let me know and we will try to move into a few campsites mid week when they might be empty.
Remember the celebration will be an outdoor event – so dress casually and have warm jackets/raincoats with you.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks for the info Anne-Marie. Planning on attending myself.
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Anne-Marie Rizzi
climber
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Aug 18, 2008 - 01:54am PT
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Chuck's celebration of life was a grand and emotional blast, with hundreds and hundreds of people attending in the Telluride town park.
The park was decorated with strands of prayer flags made by Kathy, and flowers from Chuck and Kathy's home; several tents housed "memory boards" with photos of Chuck, Kathy, and friends captured during various adventures.
It was primarily an informal affair, but included several tear-jerking speeches made by friends and family, which Steve Grossman filmed.
Some friends arrived earlier in the week to finish up portions of Chuck's Via Ferrata routes (I think there are two).
The Nugget Theater showed several viewings of a film made about Chuck for 2008 MountainFilm. My understanding is that the film will be available on DVD at some point, price undecided, to raise funds to build a bridge in Chuck's name on Bear Creek.
When I get further info on the DVD distribution, I will post up.
We should all be so loved...
Anne-Marie
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Aug 18, 2008 - 10:36am PT
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Condolences...
AF
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 19, 2008 - 02:17am PT
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Two weeks ago many wonderful friends of Chuck and Kathy gathered to celebrate the world according to Kroger. What an inspiring life he had, full to the brim with adventures and memories shared with the folks in attendance. I was fortunate in so many ways to attend on behalf of the YCA and record lots of tales and reflections especially with Chuck's Stanford Alpine Club pals and Kathy Green herself.
A few snapshots of the August 2 event held at the town park. Please help me add names to faces or correct errors.
Tim Kudo and Lito Tejada-Flores.
Clay Wadman on the right and George Bracksieck (far left).
Curt (in hat) and Bernadette Chadwick.
Dwight Olsen, his son, and Anne-Marie Rizzi from the right.
Lito Tejada-Flores and Hugh Kimball in the blue shirts.
Dave Calfee in blue with Scott Davis to his left.
Walt Vennum on the right and Dave Calfee under one of the fabulous storyboard tents that Kathy had put together.
Norm Weeden with arms crossed.
Chuck's dad.
Clay Wadman made my visit possible through a donation of El Cap posters on which I collected signatures of FAer's.
The wonderful evening was capped by the Dust Storm from Silverton, CO featuring the event MC Timmy O'Neill on drums, Ken Sauls lead, and an all-climber lineup playing your favorites at the Fly Me to the Moon Saloon.
I have seen a lot of shows and never watched a cymbal get tacoed! Raw power and big fun to watch.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 20, 2008 - 12:12am PT
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Railbike bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 24, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
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Buttboard bump....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 13, 2008 - 12:23pm PT
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Chuck bump....
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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My sincere, belated condolences to all, but beautiful ripples are formed by the wake of this unique talent, his achievements, and imagination.
I guess I was a "weekender college boy." Kroger and Davis were concrete examples to me that I could strive to continue my academic goals and still scratch rock.
In the late sixties at the impressionable age of thirteen, I hiked the Half Dome trail all night long carrying three days water from Nevada Falls for an attempt on the NW
Face. My partner who was waiting at the base, decided against the attempt. Returning down, we were met by Kroger and Davis heading up, really tearing up the trail, humping huge loads, and dripping sweat. I recognized them from magazine mugs, but in the flesh, they were no mere, sitting portraits.
That was my only "interaction," non verbal, and less that a minute. But the contrast of our timid retreat and their "set jaws" remainded in my psyche for years and tutored me on the subject of "determination."
To his family, friends and wife, I hope the pain of his loss will be offset by the privilege of his memory.
Bruce
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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Chuck had some kind of moxy. He somehow managed to break two Yosemite hammers and wrote Chouinard a nasty letter in the early seventies clearly accusing him of shoddy craftsmanship. Not long after this exchange, he had the pluck to ask YC for a job! While he was there he made a set of his own bamboo ice tools and hammers.
He also had a big hand in designing the Peapod Hammock around 1972.
Kathy Green donated a well worn prototype to the YCA this summer. Thanks again.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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I went to the Pamirs with Chuck in '78. I didn't know him before that except vicariously through Scott Davis who I worked for. We hit it off quite well on the trip and he was a real joy to be around. I really regret not getting to know him better afterwards but it is a long commute from Seattle to Telluride.
Thanks, Chuck, it was a privilege.
Reilly Moss
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 26, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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What a lovely thread! Though I never knew Chuck, I've enjoyed reading about him. My condolences still to his wife and family.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 26, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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More details Reilly! Who else was along and what were your objectives? You must have a few stories from that jaunt?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 27, 2009 - 01:31am PT
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Steve, et al,
We were the AAC Exchange team in '78: Ben Read, Carlos Buehler, Steve Hackett, Rick Sylvester, and our non-plussed fearless leader Chuck. He did not wear the mantle comfortably although he did it justice. The joke was he got picked, by whom we didn't know, because he was tallest and oldest and, no doubt, the wisest. The funny thing is it was a near run thing that he even made it as he had been working as some kind of jefe on a shrimp processing plant in Puerto Penasco, Mexico, and only just got it done enough to leave. I guess manana wasn't good enough but I don't think Chuck would have used the manana card.
I guess part of the reason Chuck and I hit it off was that although he was el supremo jefelisimo I was the only one who could capisce with the commissars. It got to be sort of a Laurel & Hardy "Who's on first" thing. The commissars would tell us something, usually not to our likeing. The poor 'official' translator, who I liked but was not in an enviable position, would tell Chuck his take on the 'pronouncement'. He usually sugar-coated it and left out about 3/4. I couldn't blame him; how many ways can you translate nyet? Then we would huddle up and I'd call bullpucky and we would make a counter-offer like "We're tired of Auntie Tamara's Old Country-Style Vulcanized Chicken, how's about an edible meal?"
That's kind of how it went (ok, we didn't really bitch about the food) for 6 weeks but we had a great time doing it. The Russkies, naturally, had to have a leader to deal with but Chuck took great joy in jerking their chains by putting most everything to a vote. Of course the commissars repeatedly told us about the extremely high voter turnout in the good ol' USSR but at least our votes counted. If the truth be told I am sure we would have been happy with whatever Chuck decided, he was wise beyond his years.
This is the best I could come up with on short notice. Ben, Carlos, and Chuck in Paris waiting for Steve and Rick to arrive.
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Jan 27, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
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Reilly,
Glad know you are around and to hear a few 78 AAC/USSR stories. I think there are a lot more stories to be told - many very funny and about the cultural clash and lack of funds for the Soviets to really entertain the American climbers. Stories like being parked on glacier for a week after all the climibng was done, out of food and having to eat the trash from earlier in the trip; the base camp Oylmpic Games; Sylvester's flag on the Summit of Peak Communism; seeing Gengis Kahn and why 3 of the 6 climbers (all unamaried) got married within 3 months of their return to the US. Maybe there should be a new thread about all three of the ACC exchange trips to the USSR. Chuck was very proud that your 1978 was the only one without a fatility or serious injury.
Chuck's wife - Kathy
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 28, 2009 - 12:25am PT
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Kathy,
Being Irish I had to turn off the loquacious switch and stay on topic. I have a goodly number of stories and a few slides that weren't among the 22 rolls that Kodak ruined! I'll start scanning now that I know there is some interest. There won't be a lot of climbing stories but maybe we can maintain interest with an explanation of how during that week on starvation rations we applied the Yosemite Decimal System to rating previously discarded edible garbage for resurrection, so to speak.
yours,
Reilly
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jan 28, 2009 - 01:05am PT
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I really miss that Chuck. What a spirit. The days I had climbing with him are gold. I always imagined there would be many more. It's still hard to believe he's not running around the mountains at this very moment, coming back with yet another wild story.
Best to you, Kathy-Hope to come to Telluride and visit sometime again in the not too distant future.
--john m.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 28, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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Thanks, John - a lovely photo. I take it that it's Chuck and Kathy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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You bet. Nice shot of Kathy and Chuck, John!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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While Reilly is around! Rick Sylvester's 1979 account of the third Soviet climbing exchange from the AAJ.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Steve,
I'm coming, but it might be a little while; my slides are in a frightful mess.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 18, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
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Kathy,
Just read your comment over on the Norman Clyde thread.
We met very briefly when Chuck was still well, at a Memorial Service for my brother-in-law Alan Jacobsen, one summer up on the Mesa (?) above town, by a small pond. I hadn't seen him in over 30 years, but he immediately invited me over, and not taking that offer before we left town was my biggest regret of the weekend. You always think there will be time. Alan's family was healing old ruptures thru his death, and I stayed with that.
I opened this thread many times, read and was warmed by it, and put it silently away. I just didn't know what to say. Yes, he could be aloof, but it never felt unkind. More like that big old sense of irony -- the cosmic fool -- was just grinning away waiting for you to fill the void with light and laughter. I'm sure we did, but damn if it hasn't vanished cleanly without a trace. And that's it's own testamonial, and such a good one, but so Zen-clean there aren't many bones left to scratch around in and build a good story. Not much left but a giant sense of respect for Chuck holding a huge open space, surrounded by a bubble of irony and mischief, its core open to anything, kind and twinkly and not judging.
I'm so glad you found the Norman Clyde thread and are digging in. Yeah, so why didn't you guys come to the Eastside? No mystery, when you chose the Rocky Mountain high. Feeble joke, but no telling, really, why we choose anything: place, partner, profession. I got to look around Telluride many times with Alan, watched Climax avalanches fall, and once above Yankee-Boy Basin he took me onto the scariest talus of my life.
You see, I knew Chuck for only that summer or two we guided together at the Palisades School of Mountaineering in the early Seventies. We did one big climb together, but it was a doozie, Barefoot Bynum on the Dark Star Buttress of Temple Crag (V, 5.10b). It was the only time I ever spent a night in a hammock, so when I see that famous shot of Chuck in his on El Cap, I just have to grin all over again. Pushed it free onsight, which felt pretty good. No epics, just fun in the alpine zone.
Anyway, no more struggling to express Chuck, for now. Just big-grin appreciation. I'm so glad I got to see him that one last time and to meet you.
Peace,
Doug Robinson
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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Jul 24, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
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I did his ferrata in Telluride last weekend. It was a lot of fun.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 24, 2011 - 04:54pm PT
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I never knew Chuck or Kathy but have become friends with Curt and Bernadette Chadwick through a mutual acquaintance. I met Curt just a week before he and Bernadette went to Chuck's memorial.
A couple of other notable ascents by Chuck.
Chuck, Curt and Norm Weeden put up the first Grade VI (5.9 A4) in the Sierra backcountry on the South Face of Tehipite Dome in 1970. I believe it's seldom done due to the tedious approach.
In 1972 Chuck, Curt, Rick Boyce and Dwight Olsen made I think the 2nd ascent of Denali via the Pioneer Ridge. I believe they took a different route from the first ascent. Another tedious approach and descent.
Fred Glover
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ec
climber
ca
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Jul 24, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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...as far as I can tell, the route has not been repeated. In 1997, one of his 4" sheet steel bongs was found sitting on the ledge at the base of the upper part of their route. - ec, upthread
ec
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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These guys didn't get their due. Kroger and Davis.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Jul 28, 2016 - 12:47pm PT
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bump
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