Discussion Topic |
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 23, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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Tis the season and this is a dandy from the Jan/Feb 1978 Climbing. Jim Knight snagged lots of frozen plums and penned the article. Back in 2002, I wrote a piece on clean climbing for the 30th anniversary of the 1972 Chouinard catalog. Jim was the only BD employee that appreciated my effort enough to let me know about it. So, who loves ya baby?
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Dec 23, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
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Miller's Thriller! Oh my!
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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Dec 24, 2007 - 01:55am PT
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That man is awesome... and heavily involved in the preservation of local climbing areas. Continues to be one of the greatest assests to the Utah Valley Climbing Community.
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Dec 24, 2007 - 09:48am PT
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pretty cool stuff
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2007 - 05:38pm PT
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I did Stewart Falls long ago with John Fowler and had an exciting time. On the approach we passed a trophy house that happened to be in the wrong spot for a slide past a certain size and had a wall of avalanche debris clear through it! "Well, at least it already slid. Right?" I gazed ahead up the track to our destination.
So, already a little jittery, I head up the crux first pitch which turns out to be a thin shell of soft ice over vaguely consolidated snow. No protection, fogged glasses on a warm day and the ever present collapse potential made for a memorable outing.
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jimknight
climber
Orem
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Dec 26, 2007 - 01:53am PT
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Thanks Steve. Your contributions are awesome and I appreciate the post of the ice article. Can't believe it's 30 years old now. Time flies when you're having fun, eh? Provo Canyon ice is not a well-kept secret anymore nor should it be. We're lucky to have such a resource that is essentially private land but allowed public access and enjoyment.
As an interesting side note to your Stewart Fall climb, the trophy house you mentioned belonged to my boss at the time. The slide happened the day before they were supposed to move in, and ironically, just after the furniture and furnishings were put in place.
Happy New & Safe Year Climbing
Jim
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Dec 26, 2007 - 11:39am PT
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You have the most excellent library, Steve. I remember all these articles from when I had the issues in my hot little hands, but didn't start hanging on to them religiously until around '80, or so. Thanks for posting these!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
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Nostalgic pleasure for all. Great to see your post Jim. Do you have any inclination to scan some of those old slides and post them? If enough time has passed, I bet your boss even has a shot of the slide blasted house! As a builder with a good sense of physical forces, I was very impressed with that scene. Glad that nobody was home when nature came a callin' with an exploded view!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 26, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
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Steve,
Thanks for this, among many excellent way-back posts. Your sense of what's classic is really appreciated.
Jim,
Not having met you until much later, I like this glimpse into your deep past. Our moonlight ride up the Snake Dike was so inspiring -- maybe you noticed that since then I have been lurking again about the Dome. I keep mentioing in awe your rippinly rapid transit of the John Muir Trail -- did you ever write about that one?
Doug
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jimknight
climber
Orem
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Dec 26, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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Hi Steve and Doug,
I think you both can appreciate the power of wet snow. The concrete work on that house was incredible but the snow oozed it's way though the spacious doors and windows like a dose of salts. I vividly recall the grand piano reduced to kindling in the great room. An insurance nightmare.
I read your article in Rock & Ice. Outstanding! Every time I run the panorama trail I have to stop and gaze at the marvelous beauty of that face. I'm psyched you're bringing your magic prose to such an enchanted place. That moonlight trip we took was a career high.
I haven't written about the JMT fastpack. I really should, but I think I'll have to write it in situ, taking the time for it all to come back. Thanks for the prodding. ps- I just finished another batch of holiday kahlua, so email me an address where can I send it.
best,
Jim
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 27, 2007 - 03:05am PT
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Check out those totally "old school" ice tools. Getting good sticks back then was a whole different animal. And then there were all those totally marginal ice screws. Also, before plastic boots and FootFangs you had to have calves of steel or a very high pain threshold. What a totally different sport it is today!
Bruce
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Dec 27, 2007 - 10:36am PT
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No ice in Utah, nothing to climb, move along please ...
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marky
climber
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Dec 27, 2007 - 11:39am PT
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goddamn it, if you post a photo, caption it with the name of the place
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jimknight
climber
Orem
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Dec 27, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
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the photo is of Stairway to Heaven
the extended pitches in the upper left are farmed (so to speak) courtesy of Scott Adamson and others who hauled ass and hoses up there preseason to redirect the spring water. props to them.
jk
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2007 - 03:10pm PT
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So the route was hosed then??? Along with the climbers. LOL
Now here is a fabulous historical nomenclature quandry. The birth of the AWI grade for Artificial Waterfall Ice!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2007 - 09:39pm PT
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Bump for memories of FrostyJello in the New Year!!!!!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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Icy bump....
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Hey, Steve, you're always pulling up the good stuff!
Jim Knight--talented, valiant and unsung. Cheers, bro. Through all the years we've been through all the years...
-HeiloJello
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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Any memories from the mass ascent of the Fang? Looked like a family affair where you had to rent out the next gully over to accomodate everybody. Take the clan ice bowling!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Haha,
The couple times we made the trek to Provo, that article was our guidebook.
This is maybe in the vicinity of The Fang, probably Bridalveil, 1980, myself and Erik Erickson, a polaroid taken by Nick Badyrka:
We never really got that much done; just a few pitches each trip. The drive out on our second trip, 15 hrs from LA, featured blinding midnight snowstorms. The wipers were alternately failing in their clearance of ice from the windshield and I'd follow the big semi trucks' wheel tracks through white out conditions, at times holding the wheel cocked in a turn, with zero visibility at about 50mph, waiting for the roadway to re-appear before needing to straighten out the arc.
This was the Humingbird/Big Bird era, but just on the brink of plastic boots. Also Chouinard screws, placed with one arm through a wrist loop all the way to the elbow. Snargs came out shortly after, which were nice for the leader, because they could be placed and wailed in with one hand.
On this particular trip, I had fortified my Galibier Superguides with a neoprene sock and that did little for me other than cut off enough circulation to induce mild frost bite. Erik wore Supergators, a better option which I uptook along the way to Koflachs. For most of that trip, when in town, I had to wear my Snow Lion polarguard booties to help my cold feet along. I still have chronic cold feet, so I'm wearing those same booties here at home as I type this recollection!
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Tarbuster, you are standing front of Bridalveil. Anymore one does not linger too long in that stop. On multiple occasions I have seen avalanche debris piled 10 feet high. One year a couple of climbers were sleeping in their truck when it all came down. They escaped through the hatch in the camper top. The truck was not seen again until spring. That same avalanche took out part of the tram station. and the bridge. Several others have done in the other buildings.
At this point when the avalanche danger is up it is best o avoid all of the Provo climbs with the exception of Stairway.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2008 - 11:17am PT
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Remember Doug Hall and don't be indulgent for sure!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Remember Doug Hall and don't be indulgent for sure!
I remember that day with clarity. What, 18" of powder the day/night prior, and raining that morning? Ugh.
I always worry when the weather and avy conditions are spooky, and Outdoor Retailer is in town...
Doug was a heckuva nice guy. Heavy sigh...
Watch yer topknots.
-Brian in SLC
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
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That wet snow had enough force to snap 1" tubular webbing if I remember correctly. The only such failure that I can recall in 37 years of climbing!
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Wasn't that the avalanche that crossed the highway? Or was that the year before? Something like 10-20 feet of snow across the whole highway.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
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So who was responsible for discovering and developing Santequin Canyon early on?
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jimknight
climber
Orem
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Jan 14, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
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In the late 70's Mark Ward and partner, myself and Randy Lippincott climbed Squash Head before it had a name, or the canyon was known to have more ice and subsequently developed. We didn't name anything, and I'm not sure there were any photos taken. I have none. Kudos to those followed and fleshed-out a great area.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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Lots of good ice tucked away in that place! Squas Head is big fun for sure!
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Jan 15, 2008 - 10:59am PT
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Does anyone know the conditions this season?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Report Bump.
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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Jan 22, 2008 - 01:18am PT
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Fat beyond imagining... even shower tower is in (or mostly in) Provo is fat, Rock canyon is fat, Santaquin is fat... it's kinda ridiculous, really. Avi danger not so stable today... Darren almost bit it trying to put up an FA in rock canyon.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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Nice and Fat! Gotta love that report.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2008 - 11:46am PT
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Do any of you old guys remember when the discussion about rating ice routes began? In the old days, a description of the most difficult section was the norm and comparative ratings weren't used.
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jimknight
climber
Orem
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Hi Steve,
I'd credit Jeff Lowe with the rating system, per his book "The Ice Experience" (1979)
pgs 120-122. That's about when things started to make sense. Ask Jeff if he had any earlier discussions relative to ice grades.
best,
Jim
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2008 - 03:47pm PT
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The reason that I asked is to determine how much dialog went on before Jeff codified the system. Perhaps Jello can chime in on that aspect of the ratings evolution.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2008 - 11:44am PT
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Here is a tidbit for you old timers. From MT 54 March/April 1977, this is a Dave Alcock shot of the great Bill March on the FA of Cascade on Stag Rocks in the Cairngorms.
I have a vague recollection that this was the first route on the Isles that involved the use of Piolet Traction or modern germanic frontpointing. Pretty impressive with the gear du jour and no rope in sight! Recollections anyone?!?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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Tis the season to be frosty and jumpy!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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There's a laddie who's sure, all that glitters is froze.
And he's climbing a Stairway to Heaven.....
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Dec 18, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
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What a "COOL" (pun intended) thread thank you Steve.
I remember the OP article clearly from when it originally appeared. I might even still have that issue. I was getting very serious about ice climbing then and that article was a big stoke. I flashed back this time remembering being momentarily outraged that somebody had the audacity to name another besides the famous Telluride climb "Bridal Veil". Until I read WHO named it. My bad, all's cool.
Joe Brown brain buckets, Whillians "nut buster" harnesses, heavy klunky boots, Super Gators (still have a green and orange pair with the old Chouinard label) 1 long axe, 1 alpine hammer, Salewa or Chouinard cramps, Dachstein mittens and all manner of funky nearly functionless ice protection.
What huge strides were made for us mere mortals when the ice gods brought us Terrodactyls, Hummingbirds, Big Birds, Recurved picks, Footfangs (with fast bindings instead of finger freezing Neoprene lacing) Snargs and Chouinard tubular
screws.
Thank you for eliciting many great memories as well as a few random epic nightmares.
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jimknight
Trad climber
Orem, Utah
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Dec 31, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Nice flashback Steve. i dig the matching ski gloves Bill is wearing. Style!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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The wonders of accidental fashion!
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More Air
Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
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Here's some fashion...
Jim on the first ascent of Frozen Assets, early 80's.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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Nice fatness!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Icy Bump...Any more More Air?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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Tis' the season to be frosty...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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Screamin' Barfys!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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There should be some ice formed up by now...
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Nov 22, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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Santiquin Canyon...From left to right, Angel of Fear, Automatic Control Theory and the Candlestick in 1985
210' pillar...Angel of Fear in Santiquin canyon
Jim Dockery leading on the last (5th) pitch of Stairway to Heaven, 1978
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
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Nice shots!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
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Ice Bump!
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Keep it up Brian! Those shots are cool!
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fosburg
climber
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5 pitches on the Stairway today. Lots of snow down there but the ice is fat.
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Jim on the Enclosure Couloir, Tetons 1980's
Rick Wyatt was the first to free solo Stairway to Heaven
Rick again, on Soft & Juicy, Provo Canyon
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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great pics MOREAIR. Who are you? I am Gary Olsen. Used to climb in those parts in that time....
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Hey Gary it's Brian Smoot, How you been? Wish you were still hanging with us old schoolers in the Wasatch.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Couple shots from 19 Dec 09. We managed to catch White Nightmare in fairly easy WI 4 conditions (only way I can lead it!):
Stairway to Heaven. Counted 20 people on the bottom. Not many have the horsepower or saavy for that 5th pitch. Seein' folks swing good ol' classic pick tools on that thing is pretty neat!
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Really nice archival stuff there Brian!
... Not germane to the Provo scene seen but,
Maybe we covered this in one of the other ice threads: anybody remember an article about a guy, an ice soloist from the East Coast, named TREMBLAY?
'Had some really classy black-and-white shots.
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fosburg
climber
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Hey Moreair, what year did Rick Wyatt do the first free solo of the Stairway?
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Fosburg:
He soloed it around 1979. The photo of him climbing between the 2 pillars hit the cover of Summit Magazine (Dec-Jan, 1980) He has a short write up about his ascent in there.
Here it is...
The “Stairway to Heaven” in Provo Canyon is probably the best and longest winter ice climb in Utah. Pyramid shaped and nearly 850 feet high, the climbing is usually 70 degrees or better with vertical ice on each pitch, but is broken by several ledge systems which create the stairway effect.
Though the climb was in very good shape, the day tat I chose to make a solo ascent, could not have been much worse. It was snowing heavily with high winds, and avalanche conditions were extreme.
I tied on my 7mm rope which I would drag behind me as a precaution if I should wish to retreat. Quickly I climbed the first pitch to a large ledge and began ascending the second pitch. I was wearing a pair of plumber’s gloves for improved grip, although this was hardly necessary as I also had the shafts of my tools taped, but my hands were frozen solid in those thin gloves before I was halfway up the second pitch. Upon reaching the top of that pitch, I put on my mittens and thawed out my hands. The thawing process was painful and revealed that I had severely bruised several knuckles. I had trouble moving some fingers, and the middle finger of my left hand wouldn’t move at all.
By now it was snowing extremely heavy, with avalanches pouring off at frequent intervals. I found myself alternately being nearly blown off by the wind and then nearly knocked off by avalanches, but on these vertical pitches the snow seemed to arch off the ledge systems, with the main blast of the avalanches going behind me. I continued up, but because of all the snow flying about, I weaved quite a circuitous course.
I finally found myself staring up at the long ice pillar, normally considered the last pitch and the crux of the climb. The ice seemed to be in good shape, and there was an ice chimney splitting up the climb to about three-quarters height. With the delightful security of the chimney I made rapid progress up to the point where I had to traverse out and climb the last 15 feet of vertical ice. The most probable and thickest ice looked to be to the left so I started out, but the ice was brittle. I returned to the chimney for a bit of thought. I had not been back in the chimney much more than a minute when I heard a tremendous roar, and the biggest avalanche of the day came crashing down from above. It crashed and splashed at the base of the pitch, tugging gently on the 7mm rope I was dragging behind, but I was in the chimney, secure and unscathed. It was with a shock of realization that if I had not returned to the chimney, I surely would have gone for a grand ride.
After the avalanche subsided, I went out immediately as it would take some time for the snow to build up to send another avalanche down. Traversing out of the chimney to the right this time, the next 12 feet above me looked impossible but I started up with a hand-jam between two inches of slushy ice and the rock, while stemming with my crampons scraping against the bare rock. I was now committed, and with water pouring down in a muddy creek I was getting quite wet – it poured down the sleeves of my anarak, down my legs, and into my boots. I was beginning to freeze, and the climbing had become so hard that it seemed I could go neither up nor down. But the thought of lingering on the very shaky holds on which I was delicately balanced, between all four appendages, was even more frightening.
I spied a piece of mud and moss slightly above me and moved to get a hand-jam between it and the rock. I then tried to move up quickly, but carefully, as the moss was pulling away and this was the only hold for my hands. Stemming with my feet, one in slushy hollow ice and the other scraping against the rock, I moved up. The ledge flattened out in front of my nose, and I had to restrain myself from just trying to throw myself on it. I slowly placed a tool and pulled onto the ledge. It didn’t seem like such a big triumph, but I felt contentment.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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Tis' the season for frozen Bumps!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
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Happy New Year Ice!
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Younkin
Mountain climber
Utah
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Jan 15, 2011 - 11:02am PT
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Jim, thats a great article, finger of fate was an epic, I tell the story over and over. Sad that Mark is gone.....Jim Younkin
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
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One more time, if you please!
The name is too good to not have a tale attached!
Any classic ice shots in your slidebox, Jim?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 15, 2011 - 06:10pm PT
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Bridal Veil Right in Provo Canyon about an hour ago...
Soft wet and warm...
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jan 15, 2011 - 11:16pm PT
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bump for climbing
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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I had the pleasure of finally meeting Jim Knight recently...What a great guy!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
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Eis Bump!
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fosburg
climber
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Was down there the other day and did The Finger then traversed over to the last pitch of Post Nasal. Ice is in good but it's super creepy without snow and all that rubble all over the ledges.
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More Air
Trad climber
S.L.C.
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Last pitch of Shower Tower, Provo Canyon. Photo: Jim Knight
Angel of Fear, Santiquin Canyon, 2009.
Pitch two
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Wown great thread and great looking ice.
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fosburg
climber
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Nice photos of Angel of Fear, fantastic route!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Fat conditions bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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Late season bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 02:09pm PT
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Anything sticking?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
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So, how was it this season?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 24, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
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Big.
We had a great ice season. Maple came in unusally large.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Frozen Shizzle Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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Eis Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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True Dat...
Full on excitement!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2015 - 01:42pm PT
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Bump for a Phat Ice Winter!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2016 - 12:27pm PT
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Gotta earn your frosty Saint Provo Girl at day's end.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2017 - 11:04am PT
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Stairway to Heaven bump...
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| Messages 1 - 82 of total 82 in this topic |
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