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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 26, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
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If you are into OW, have pics of OW, or ????
Shoot me an email, russ@fishproducts.com, so I can chat you up.
I will for sure need to hear from the Hartouni OW crew, all of them...... anyone over 35 years old, and anyone with a fondness for the wide.
When I get your email I'll bounce back some specifics to your email address.
Thanks!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:04pm PT
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It hurts so good...
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turd
climber
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:06pm PT
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Is that Turkey Rock?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:07pm PT
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Maybe Gary can just invite you to Wide Wednesday?
-Melissa...not over 35...haven't made it to the remote wide cracks of the Bay Area yet.
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:14pm PT
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Russ has an open invitation anytime he's in town!!
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
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Wide is where you find it.
close-up of my kick-ass climbing shoe
this doesn't have anything to do with anything, I just like it!
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JMC
climber
Tucson
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:31pm PT
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Going nowhere slowly on Mt. Lemmon (Matricide)
I'm into fast runs on the beach, shotgunning beers in the moonlight, and moaning quietly in the confines of sub-squeeze chimneys. If I'm your man, give a ring at 1-900-WID-GASH.
-John
edit: I don't make the age cutoff, dammit!
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Odub
Trad climber
Cincy, Ohio
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:36pm PT
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I emailed you with some links to things Russ... songs, videos, and pics.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 26, 2007 - 10:44pm PT
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sent you email...
...some pictures, etc. coming up (though I'll be in the Valley working on a project this weekend)...
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:26am PT
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I sent you a few pics. I got more if you want. I sent the low res versions...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:34am PT
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People still climb the wide.....?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:41am PT
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2007 - 03:21am PT
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Thanks for the emails... you should have got some info in return to those who sent me one.
anyone else???? Todd, I know you don't know how to email, so I'll just talk to you later.....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 27, 2007 - 10:07am PT
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I sent you an email.
'Hope it doesn't get spam cleaned, or wind up in Gordon's inbox.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 27, 2007 - 01:58pm PT
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Matricide was the first route I climbed @ Mt Lemmon, & my first day trip with Chris raypole, I kicked off a rock that smashed the new SLR I'd bought the day before.
Did the route though, it's a good'un!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 27, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
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From a few hours ago...
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Oct 27, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
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yeah ows!
nice tom, glad to hear that the probs went kick-thru style
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Oct 27, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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Russ,
if you want to go there, randy leavitt has tonnage of offwidth photos....
my nomination for most damage on the shortst offwidth: Human Sacrifice, just east of Geology Tour Road
it's sick
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Oct 31, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
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Russ-
Sean Jones and I put up a 8 pitch .11c offwidth that tops out near the base of the cables on halfdome this summer. It's called Laid to Rest, and it's SICK. If you're familiar with the south face topography, it's just to the right of the Tiger's Belly.
I heard they're gonna mention it in the december r&i. I'll post a photo when I get one on the computer.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 31, 2007 - 08:57pm PT
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Don't be shy about that one, wild!
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Oct 31, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
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Onsighting Generator Crack
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Here is a gem from Canyon Country Climbs by Katy Cassidy and the late Earl Wiggins, 1989.
That is Mr. Bigbro product testing if I am not mistaken. Offwidths Are Beautiful!
From Mark Kroese's Fifty Favorite Climbs, 2001, Steph Davis' choice, the Obelisk on the Diamond of Long's Peak. Edit- A friendly fistfight at altitude. Kennan Harvey photo.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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If you are an offwidth climber ["legit" free or "cheat" aid like me!] you oughta get yourself a few Valley Giant cams. We used these things on Excalibur [above], Bermuda Dunes, Son of Heart, and a few other places here and there.
Tom makes these things in 9" and 12" sizes, and they are the bomb. He's tested them to failure at over 5000 lbs, much stronger than any commercially made cam.
Purists will say I'm cheating. They're right. Royal Robbins would also tell you it's cheating to bring #4 Camalots on Tis-Sa-Ac, and he's right too! We seem to use the 9-inchers a lot more often than the 12's.
Ask Brutus of Wyde - he bought a bunch and loves 'em.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Uhhhh, this is a freeclimbing thread Pete not the tinkertoy parade.
A classic Doug Robinson shot of Pratt on North Sixshooter from Ascent 1970. He don't need no stinkin' pro.
Mike Farrell in Pratt's Crack near Bishop. Galen Rowell photo from Ascent 1973.
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ec
climber
ca
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'Can't find the slides of this O/W on Hetch Hetchy Dome, YNP...one of the most horrendous "5.9" O/W around. On the FA Galen said something to the effect that he "was like a dog chasing a cat up a drainpipe," High and Wild. Sh#t I thought it was a solid 5.9d sandbag, however, a beautiful, smooth polished 4" monster. Pitch 5.
Upper Tehipite Dome, KCNP:
'S' Crack, The Needles, ..."a 5.9+ doublewaahsqueezechimney. One of those chimneys where you can't move your head and falling isn't the problem, suffocation is..." Todd Vogel:
The 'Go Big or Go Home' pitch 5.10 on Angel Wings, SNP:
the best part was passing a pile of loose rocks to get to the belay ledge...
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Alright kids, here you go. This one's for afficianados only....
"5.11+"
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Looks wild and wide, gumby.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Fantastic stuff, ol' hardman photos and all... BTW, what the heck is that "5.11+"?
Clint, primo site--who did that Taped Gloves page, most excellent. Bonus Needles info!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Gumby, that is a sick looking OW, I'm getting pumped just looking at those pics. Where is it?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Kelly,
The material on monsteroffwidth.com (including the tape gloves page) is all by Alexander Cooper.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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ec,
> 'Can't find the slides of this O/W on Hetch Hetchy Dome
I'm not sure if this helps, but on your old site the URL was:
http://home.earthlink.net/~ecjoe/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/hh5.jpg
I don't seem to have saved a copy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice Bombay Gumby- just one crotch bulge away from airtime! Very cool shot. Is the route your FA? I really like the gear dragline in the first pic too.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Hey Steve,
I'm pretty sure that Obelisk pic was taken by Kenan, it's not him climbing. Seem to remember a BD ad for camalots from way back that used that pic, named the climber and gave photo credit to KH.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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F*#king awesome, gumby!
I'm doing "Pratt's Crack" this weekend, Steve. Nice pic. Pics of that thing are hard to come by. Also planning on doing "Sheila", around the corner. Probably before Pratt's. Funny - a .10a as a warm-up, prior to the .9 OW!
good to see you here, E.C.
Great thread, Russ!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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A big climbing regret was not doing "Pratt's Crack" while I was in Bishop. My partner and I went and did "Dog Dead, Chick Killed It" over at Little Egypt instead. Russ's site is nice to pin-point key wides for trippin' to (and on).
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ec
climber
ca
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Clint,
I have misplaced the digital file for that HH OW .jpg since I changed web servers and have to scrap for the original to rescan it. I will find it...the 'new' site is: vertical20.com
If you'd like and OW challenge, it would be worth your while to climb the first five pitches of the route to just do Pitch 5. It really is a test piece.
 ec
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ec
climber
ca
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Nefarius, Pratt's is classic! Enjoy!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Pratt's Crack is classic, and not too bad to lead either. I remember nothing smaller than a #4.5 old Camelot... maybe I took the green and blue BigBro, a #5 old Camelot and a bunch of slings to tie off the chockstones.
I suspect that Pratt only tied off the chockstones.
Just remember heal-toe! And have fun, it is a killer pitch!!
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ec
climber
ca
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Ed,
You cheat! We had stoppers, slung chockstones and those hex thangs less than 4"!- ec
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gumbyclimber
climber
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Viva Gorditas!
The ascentionist is BenWah. Magoo scored the 2nd, after that I believe it hasn't been done.
Lower Brother. Left of Hawkman's, a heinous, obvious feature and an instant classic; you can't miss it. It's truly a unique route complete with a pretty surly rack; maybe 3 #5 camalots. Approach pitch is a memorable munge fest; punch holes in the dirt and there are #3 Camalots back there, if I remember correctly.
Here's a few more images. You can see where some blocks clocked Ben in the face when he reached up and pulled them out.
Enjoy.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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ec,
I've got your new vertical20.com site linked on my Needles page - it's good stuff.
I've looked at that ow on HH dome from the bivvy ledge, but we paid attention to your beta on its difficulty and went for the left side "ow" instead. The left side is more like squeeze, and only for a few moves. I'm a poor swimmer in ow!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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My goof on the Obelisk shot- thanks. What a sweet photo! One of the best parts of Moving Over Stone II by the late StressMurray is the father and son Herbert segment. TM on Pratt's Crack and Tommy on the bolted blankness off to the right. Totally classic stuff!
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sweatyballs
Trad climber
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Me Epicing up the Crisco Way variation of Green Savior, Granite Mt. AZ.....
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Ben Wah is a hardman. Damn!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Went up and looked at Viva Gorditas a couple times this summer, once while climbing some lower bro base routes and once while cleaning the debris out of Maple Jam. If you're standing at the base of Maple Jam, just look up and a bit left, it's a very obvious feature starting about 250' up.
Those pics don't quite reveal how traversing/horizontal that rig is. Looks a little like a longer 1096 slanting the opposite way. And the bit about "mungey approach pitch" is an understatement. Think about 200' of dirt/moss/heather/stacked loose blocks and gravel on ledgey and low angle terrain. Never could convince anyone to try it with me. The one guy I got over there looked at it and went "no way dude, that thing looks filthy".
One question: Where does it end? After the wide bombayish flare feature ends is there a fixed station or does it turn onto the vertical face and go up to the ledges?
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ec
climber
ca
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Thx Clint,
Here's one shot looking down at the Rowell OW (pitch 5) on Hetch Hetchy Dome, YNP:
looks like I got a standing ovation...ha! ha!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Hope you OW lovers actually emailed Russ...
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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File this under ??? (11++++) still waiting for the send, gotta go garden soon.
LCC love...el maestro JA
2nd asc. style edit
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2007 - 07:12pm PT
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yeah.... this is all find and dandy, but if you are in this thread and have not emailed me, you are "bodjing a lamer" as we used to say.
you know who you are... send me an email, or if you already have, check your junk mail bins for my replies..... hurry... the window is closing.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jaws, 5.9'd' OW, Parker Bluff, Kern River Canyon.
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Mimi
climber
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This will keep you boys up at night. From the Rock & Ice calendar, 2002, Australian Simon Carter.
John Varco submits himself to a thrashing on his way up the extremely awkward and strenuous overhanging off-width crack, aptly named Belly Full of Bad Berries (5.13a/b or Aussie grade 28). Large cams are essential for tackling this unrelenting test-piece which is to be found at Indian Creek, Utah, USA-should you wish to subject yourself to the same.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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hey Mimi, I can make 5.9 OW look like that too.... only the angle is lower so the camera has to tilt a bit more... and I'm not as skinny...
Russ, rough week at work... hoping to get you something before the wormhole turns... really... not going out this weekend (most likely).
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Mimi
climber
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Ed, hook up the Wi and the neural painsuit and I bet you bleed out before you get to the chains. You really have to look at the photo to see how crazy steep it is.
Too bad you can't make the JTSF.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mimi, been there, done that, it only requires two big cams (bd 4.5 & 5 or equivalent) not to mention a relatively youthful 48 yr old body, sigh.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jay told me that the stem move was "off," you can only use the crack... but it's been half a decade since I was 48... (that's my story and I'm sticking to it - TIMSAIASTI)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I almost edited to mention the stem thing. but thought it would seem ... stretchy(?)
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Mimi
climber
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Wow, Jaybro, good on ya! Where's the 13a/b?
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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"Mimi, been there, done that, it only requires two big cams (bd 4.5 & 5 or equivalent) not to mention a relatively youthful 48 yr old body, sigh."
Jaybro, BD 4.5 and 5 cams ARE NOT "big cams."
Brutus
PS Russ, just saw this thread, e-mail sent.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Brutus-true, no big cams needed
Mimi, where it gets too wide for fists.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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I'm just going to listen to Ed, from now on. Ed, Jaybro, etc... Those guys know what's up with the wide.
I'm really bummed that I blew my onsight of Pratt's, mainly due to not listening to Ed's beta for the gear. Ed said, "I remember nothing smaller than a #4.5 old Camelot...". I wasn't able to borrow the two #6's I was sure I'd need, but I thought, what the f*#k, I'm going to go check it out anyhow.
So, off I went with a #4.5 and #5 BD camelot and my 2 #9 Valley Giants. I also had an assortment of smaller gear, as I'd read, in several places, that there were placements for smaller gear in the back of the crack and on the walls, outside of the crack.
At the half way point, I'd spaced my gear out about 20' each - placed the #9's, slung a chock stone I could *easily* remove and, when slung, with either the hitch facing the front or the back of the stone, a tug would start to flip the chock out of it's "placement". No way it was holding a fall.
From there, I was pushing the #5 BD in front of me, until I reached a point where it would no longer fit. At that point, there was a jumble of stones in the crack with a couple of slings and a cordalette, all of which were rotting and I doubted would hold a fall, coupled with a quick-link. Not really confidence inspiring. I stood there, on my heal-toe cam, looking up. The crack got slightly steeper and there was no hope of any small gear, at all (as was the case for the whole first half of the climb). I'd used the only wide pieces I'd brought and the next chock was 20' up (maybe 15' at the least). Not to mention I'd carried the extra (dead) weight of the smaller gear up, for no good reason.
After standing there for 10 minutes or so, debating, I made the call to come down. I was *really* bummed about it. If I'd have had the two #6's that I'd been told I'd needed, I'd have bagged and tagged the thing.
The thing I couldn't see, from inside the crack is that about 5 feet out of my reach (and vision, apparently) there is a bomber-looking small ledge I could have put both feet on. Looks really good when you get back out from the climb. Had I have seen it, I would have pulled up to it. From there, the chockstone was really close, and I'm certain I'd have gone to it. At that height, I'd have been tons more inclined to continue. As it was, I was sure if I pitched, I was headed for the ground and it was along ways to that chock! Wish I could have seen that stance!
On the up-side... This was my first real OW/wide lead (free). I'd aided up some wider pitches on walls and followed my partner on tons of stuff and, of course, we'd TR'd the normal things. I felt totally relaxed, was moving well and really just cruising. At any point of the climb, I was able to completely release both hands to hang out, show my partner the loose chock stone, place gear and slings, etc. I was never working, at all, really. I was super psyched about this. Bummed I ran out of gear to finish. So, on the list for this weekend is the purchase of my very #6's and the send of the climb. Even if it's not onsight, I'm still psyched.
Pratt's is beautiful, btw! I was a little surprised when we walked up to it, at first. I thought it was pretty much dead-vertical. It is actually less than vertical on the wall facing you in most pics. The first 20' has plenty of stuff on the corner of the wall to stand/palm on. Even some holds inside. Really mellow. Once it gets slightly steeper and the holds start to go away, it's just awesome. There is zero munge in it, as someone said I'd encounter.
Looks like I'm *really* hooked on the wide now! Yikes!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2007 - 02:16pm PT
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Hey Neff....
Last time I did Pratts it was for a photo shoot of some ghey OW pants that Patagonia was trying to run up the flagpole... anyway.... we needed a couple of props and I cut some locust logs from the tree in the yard and bartacked slings onto them. The logs were 9.5" and 10.25" long and the 10.25" fit perfectly. I used the chock stones and maybe a nut or something between some chockstones, and then finally the time came to use the logs. Bomber! I beat one log in with the other one.... locust is a really dense wood, and heavy, and would for sure hold falls. I left the log in there as a joke piece and figured it would be there for years.... but..... some sad rappellers were coming down from some nearby route and thought the log was a BigBro and swung over and snagged it.... It lasted ONE DAY! At least one of them used to post here.... I think the log is on his mantel shelf now.
Anyway.... really big pro is needed or that thing is way run out.... way.... just clipping the tat and going makes for some exciting moments at times. Get yourself some logs and try it again!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Hey Nef.
I learned that Ed and Jay and Gary know their stuff. Scuff as well.
After practicing alot on plywood, I started going outside to offwidths. Got my azz kicked alot. I mean alot. Kind of sick to think my last three outings have all had 5.9 OW or higher or squeeze chimney or both on every day! I am still not solid on trying to lead stuff, even though the brain is starting to remember the moves.
Some stuff I can now fire on TR, but I vapor lock on lead. Still struggling with the wide gear thinking and such. Hang in there and dont beat yourself up too much. The crack will do that for you.
Gary's setting up the plywood monster for Sacherer width this week. Oh the pain. After I run laps on it I will have no excuse to avoid Sacherer Cracker.
Steve
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Glaidig
Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
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This is John about to enter the squeeze on the Left Side of the Cookie.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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hahaha! KickAss™ story, Russ! I loved it! So, maybe I'll track down some logs and save myself a couple hundred bucks! hah! Locust, huh... Never heard of that, but I'm sure I can come up with some oak or other hard-wood logs!
Regardless, it's going down this weekend, one way or another. Way run out or not! Even though I know it was the "smart" move, I've been kicking myself in the ass for not blasting off and just hitting the top. I was cruising the thing. I wonder what my (new) partner would think if I showed up with exactly the same gear and said, "It's going anyway!" Probably best not to crater in front of your new partners, eh? hahaha
Steve -- "Hang in there and dont beat yourself up too much. The crack will do that for you."
hahaha. That about sums it up most times! I'm not that bent about it, really. I'm certain I'll send it this weekend.
We may be doing Sacherer this weekend, as well. Saturday in the Valley, Sunday at Pine Creek!
Who'da thunk that someday I'd gain a love for the wide? Crazy, mang!
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Wide to fists to wide, all out a roof. Only me and about 50 other hillbillies actually know where it is, though it's not that tough to find. Done by one guy during Reagan, still waiting on a second. 12d or 13a, come and get it. This little bouldery thing on the right is nearby, not much of it but a nasty flare:
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Pine Creek appeared to have a number of cool looking flares and OWs. Cool stuff there! Anyone here done the heinous looking thing around the corner from Sheila (which is around the corner from Pratt's)? That thing looked cool! I'm unable to find a guide for the area. Pine Creek isn't in the Mammoth Area Guide and Wilson's didn't have the Bishop Area Guide.
Anyone done the OW or the fist in the cave at The Sads? The fall would be bad if you popped out, as your back is facing a sharp edge/boulder top that is about 3' behind you. Looked cool though.
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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JA looking for love in all the wrong places:
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Nov 12, 2007 - 07:26pm PT
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Cooper on a Vision Quest
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Park City, UT
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Nov 12, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
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This is on a new route a friend and I did in the boonies in Utah. We didn't free it, but it would go and would be hard and dirty. 9-12" cams are required for the start, and we put a few bolts in on the 16" small roof crack. Hasn't seen a second ascent as far as I know.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Nov 12, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
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Exiting another JTree man eater.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 12, 2007 - 11:45pm PT
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Hey Russ, what's the roof offwidth in Steve's Canyon just to the right of the 5.9 crack? I need to sick Nef and Blaine on it over Thanksgiving.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Nov 13, 2007 - 07:08am PT
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Comfortably numb
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Nov 13, 2007 - 02:56pm PT
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Grrr.....!
SO. When I left on Friday, the forecast was for rain Saturday night from Midnight until 4am-ish. Partly cloudy on Sunday, then rain Sunday night and all day Monday...
The reality was that I camped at the base of Pratt's, Saturday night, to wake up at 3am to the sound of rain, which never stopped - ALL DAY SUNDAY!!!! Unfortunately, I had to work on Monday, which was as beautiful as could be. So, Pratt's continues to elude!
Comfortably numb is on the list, G_Gnome! I'm hoping to get to see some hard work/spitting out of/flailage from Blaine on that one! It's his turn for a change!
We went to Badass Momma on Saturday. (I have the bruises to prove it!) I managed to eek out one inversion - kind of. Funny how the leverage on the calf cam changes as you go from hanging on it to pulling your body up on it! hahaha I gave it a few goes and by the end, it seemed to be making more sense. Maybe in a couple more visits on TR.
Blaine gave it a go on lead. He didn't quite get it this time, but I think his next go he will. He cruised it on TR once and worked hard (`bout time!) to send the second. Cool way to spend a morning!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 13, 2007 - 07:00pm PT
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Shots of the pro (Fish) on Comfortably Numb, Steve Canyon, Josh
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nov 14, 2007 - 09:10pm PT
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 14, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
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Holy Shite!!!
I just scanned this thread...
I've seen crazy manifest itself in many forms...
Some obsess over the light switch...
Others eat their own snot....
Still, others force their bodies into cracks not meant to be traveled... And live to tell about it!
Thanks for the inspiration people. Love the photos.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 15, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
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Haha! I like how carefully you worded that: "shots of the Fish on the route", not 'shots of the Fish doing the route"!
The closest I ever came to being cut in half was belaying Charles Cole from the top on that thing. At 115 pounds I just did not have what it took to belay 205 pounds hanging in air over and over and over and over (on a hip belay!).
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Nov 17, 2007 - 08:02am PT
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Jaybro Memorial Bathang™™™™
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Rick L
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Nov 17, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
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It was great to read the stories and see the great photos of Pratt's Crack. It is quite a piece of architecture, lost in a side canyon of the immense Wheeler Crest. Brought back fond memories of an ascent in the summer of 1972. It was, of course, before friends. The crack was too wide for bongs end-wise and I don't think we had tube chocks at the time. I remember finding a small nut on the main wall and a chockstone or two somewhere along the way at a welcome point. It was pretty secure for the most part and a number of good edges for the right foot. Felt like trying to kick-start a Harley for about a half an hour. Head on it looks rather terrifying but it kicks back once you're on it. A fitting memorial to the master of the wide. I can imagine Chuck walking up to it, sticking his left side in and smoothly moving upward,trailing a goldline tied to his waist for his second- having know idea how hard it was going to be. Pretty amazing since he likely climbed it in Pivetta leather hiking boots, which had rands about as sticky as linoleum.
Rick
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 17, 2007 - 01:25pm PT
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"Like trying to kickstart a Harley"!!!
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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ok so I'm a n00b to OW but i did this one and a few others last saturday...
but there's always somewhere to start
i'm sure most ppl here have seen this climb.
posted on RC.com too
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Odub
Trad climber
Cincy, Ohio
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Landgolier... I believe thats Thurmonuclear, no?
Its only one wide move. The rest is fists. I've done it, though I left a piece in the middle/end of the roof that I didn't clean from an earlier attempt. So, technically, it was pinkpoint...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Pink can be Cool....
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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On Binge and Purge at the Supercrack Buttress in Indian Creek Bobbie Bensman said, "I'm ruining a $10,000 boob job." Classic route, and super fun.
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Mimi
climber
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Dec 23, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
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bump for the wide
Struggle! Pete Gallagher offwidthing on the 'Original Route' on N Sixshooter Peak, Utah. Daylight is visible on the other side of the spire. Taken from Ed Webster's superb article, Wingate, Mountain 64, Nov/Dec 78.
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Big Kahuna
Ice climber
Hell Hardest climb I did was getting out of bed.
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Dec 23, 2007 - 07:27pm PT
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Bump
426
Jim check your email
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Dec 23, 2007 - 08:49pm PT
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Bump!!! My hands are getting sweaty looking at this.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 23, 2007 - 08:51pm PT
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Did you take this picture with your teeth? Mouthcam, coming soon to a face near you.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 24, 2007 - 08:00pm PT
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Easy there Fella! Save yourself for the real world.....the one full of Big Babies!
From Canyon Country Climbs by Katy Cassidy and Earl Wiggins 1989
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
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A couple of historic shots of the Crack of Despair taken by none other than the Master of Disaster himself, John Dill!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Jan 12, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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Thanks Steve... Great history there
Wonder what those bolts look like now??
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
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we're gonna find out old man!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 07:56pm PT
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You planning on a little Despair in the short term there Ed?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
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on The List...
...I'm thinking that the rule is that you can't complain about the age of bolts if that age is less than your own. (But climbing doesn't need no stinkin' rules!)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
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Well, solid as you are on 10a, you must have something to despair about after all. A few mood hangers might be kinda nice!
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Jan 12, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
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You're the man with the vanity plates Eddie!! Your lead!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 12, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
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You don't go on routes like that thinking you might fall...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 13, 2008 - 01:40am PT
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I got it Gary... need a partner to swing leads in the chimney after the 10a...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Three hundred feet of chimneys above da bidness! Nice to have a little help with that. I wonder who got the first free solo on this one?
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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Jan 13, 2008 - 09:21pm PT
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Jay: Words of wisdom from the true OW Pro!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 13, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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So when are we going?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2008 - 10:55pm PT
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Alllll aboard for the Crack of Despair!!!!!
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Jan 14, 2008 - 11:50am PT
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Peter H got the first one I ever heard of, in 71.
Any earlier?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 14, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
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Some friends of mine did either Doom or Despair in Spring '78 one guy did all the leading and they were benighted.
The same team went on to Steck Salathe later that season, and bailed when the other started leading and took an 80 footer(that's what he said) from above to below, the Wilson overhang.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 15, 2008 - 11:01am PT
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Thanks Scruffy- he would have been the likely candidate for that route in that time frame.
If you're solid and you know it, stack your hands.
If you're solid and you know it, ditch the rack.
If you're solid and you know it.
Sure that you will hardly blow it.
If you're solid and you know it, ditch the rack!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 15, 2008 - 11:09am PT
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I bet lots of folks who frequent this board can name this route
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jan 15, 2008 - 11:25am PT
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What's the climb?
Edit: Argh, I climbed that a couple years ago. I flailed badly as I recall. Looks like my mind is going as well.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 15, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
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Hint #1: it is in California but not in Yosemite National Park
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jan 15, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
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Great, thanks Steve. Now I'll be humming that tune every WideFriday™
~Susan
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 15, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
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Susan, stick with the alliteration program, that'd be Phat Fridays
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
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Travellers? I think I've done it.... Tahoe area?
Side note: I'm stealing this photo.....
if you ever want to see it alive again, go here: http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 15, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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Ed, Gary, Steve, Russ, Jaybro and other OW Dudes,
Now is the time for us to go for Crack Of Despair. Think of the excuses! River didn't freeze like we thought it would, couldn't cross. Snow covered the talus and we fell in holes up to our hips and became afraid we'd break something. It's north facing and the rock was to damn cold. There was a river running down the thing! The Poison Oak leaves were gone and we couldn't take a chance. The frozen bodies of bats and vipers freaked us out! This is the time!!!111 to go for it!!!111.
Zander
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2008 - 10:33pm PT
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Zander! the shame!!!! If you want towed on that that thing only discuss "it" in the Phat_Zone™™™™
See you there.... I'm gassing up the car.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 16, 2008 - 12:33am PT
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Russ wins the prize - a free subscription to the ST forum!
Travelers Buttress at Lover's Leap. 5.9
The coward's way out is the 10b thin crack left.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 17, 2008 - 01:50am PT
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OMG... 121 posts!
ok here is a picture for scuffy_b
and a slight blow up
Anyone care to guess?
Peter H. are you still lurking here?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2008 - 01:56am PT
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icab_test/g3/orinoco/wide_default_Hi_Ed/nicepic
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 17, 2008 - 02:04am PT
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hi Russ... getting ready to put the trail flags in... you got any plastic tape with the FISH logo on it?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:06pm PT
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Who you callin' a Basketcase!?!
Here is the sane way to do it so as to not scuff up the corduroy. Gaston!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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a few recent nice ones....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Do any of your friends and their wrestling partners have names?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2008 - 11:49am PT
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Climbs don't exist without one of these three:
names...... bolts...... chalk.......
Championship Wrestling (sooze)
Throbbing Gristle (me)
Six Pack Crack (bill russell)
Kamikaze (me)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:15am PT
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nice thread...
...this historic post launched Wide Fetish
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 13, 2009 - 02:40am PT
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wide is wack!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 14, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
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If you're solid and you know it...stack your hands!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 14, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
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Words to live by!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 19, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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"Bottom line is if people demand more climbing sh#t, they'll bump it."
bump
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
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Bump
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DJS
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
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Bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 19, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
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Pain with aplomb, style bump!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 22, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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That's a really trick mousse job...Right?!?
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Harpfreak
Trad climber
California
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Mar 22, 2009 - 04:25am PT
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Steck Salathe was enough to put me off. Never go near another OW again.
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justin.e
Boulder climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 22, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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Could someone explain to me what is going on in that picture of Pam on Lucille? Holy crap!
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Mar 22, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
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Whats dat wagon wheel Pamela has?
It looks like a BD, but they dont come that big!
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justin.e
Boulder climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 22, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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My guess is that offwidth climbers don't come that small.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 22, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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I think eeyonkee is the biggest there has ever been....
oops forgot about Largo...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 24, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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law)
Dave is an incredible son (in law)we be blessed. Josh, March 2009
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 24, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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Dave on the start to Big Bob's Big Wedge (nothing's gone right with this post, hope I didn't kill the name.)
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 24, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
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Kick ass!!!111™ does he do offwidths?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 24, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
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Nice shots, Lynne!!!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 24, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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Thanks, but it's been horrendous posting these. I have the gun out....or for those that are politically correct the cyanide capsule. I am gonna do in photobucket, my two computers or me. Did I say do in,,,,,? of course with no intent to harm.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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OW training at it's finest....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
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See, now that's why Yoga crap just ain't right for me.
Go ahead call me a homophobe or whatever. I just don't roll that way.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
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I've never seen anything like it... well... not until Fish dug it up. Yoga might be ghey... but it ain't ghey-that-whey.... LOL
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
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isn't that you in the middle, nature?
just kidding....
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
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i cut my hair.
right side. Fish is in the middle. Blue on the left.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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sorry for the fuzzy pic, but there was a tallish sloping rock under the crash pad and I had to snap and adust simo. Jess thought yo might like to see his sequence. One more shot and then I have to watch him. No other grown ups around and he's my gran kiddos Dad. There are rocks under him no pad can help with. Need him intact. :D
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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That prob has has some sporty moments, 'yo'!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
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For those of yo actually interested in climbing....(my thread drift tame in comparison to yo crack busters...)
It was way knarly. Dave is 6' plus and long armed, in good shape. The rock kinda swallowed him if you note. Would have been a trip to try for a little person like me. It was getting dark but I doubt I coulda done more than the first move or two.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
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Well, I'm feelin' kinda .....I don't know. But when you fight a computer for hours to put up a decent shot of some hard sequences and the thread gets joked .... hmmmm.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
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nothing tame about Big Bobs.... that thing is a full value dick wrenching mega classic.
Thanks for the pics and it is a shame Natures latency had to come to a head in this fine thread. Carry on Lynne.... good job.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
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Great shots!, Just trying to get down to the gristle. Did he get it? What did he think?
Your thoughts?
It's a very cool problem, I've given it one strong effort and didn't get it... yet.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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No, Dave didn't get the final couple moves. He makes no excuses and will try again in the Fall. I could give yo some fine ones. But he is class and I respect him. Cheers, what a great Guy to be a part of our family!
ps, Amy's adding another one and he is also a fun athlete. I be so blessed. Lynnie
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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last moves are the crux... hard too....
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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latency comes around and goes around so it seems....
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 24, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
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yeah, ran it by kp....same said. Dave's strong so I'll whine for him. He gave his whole day to me, his 10 year old daughter and 8 year old son. (Headstone) He did all the "stuff" we jess climbed.
Fresh with a couple guys to catch him....woulda been fun to watch. Lookin forward to Fall when he can try again. Like I said, he's a grate dude. Cheers Daveed.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 25, 2009 - 02:58am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 25, 2009 - 03:01am PT
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 25, 2009 - 03:05am PT
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Lookin' Good as usual Gordo. Someday in the off season when yo have time, can you show this gal some beta on the cracks, off width and what evah. :D Peace Dude.
Say, one of the four (slightly profane) angels I met on the headstone arete is the son of a teacher that works with yo at your school. (Imagine that, when I said do you guys know Todd ....yep, they did indeed.) Her name starts with a V. Had a blast. Lynnie
EDIT: When I wrote this I hadn't seen the last pic....as JL said, "Shiver me timbers".
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 25, 2009 - 03:10am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Mar 25, 2009 - 03:11am PT
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Mar 25, 2009 - 04:02am PT
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nice shots todd!!!!
OW!!!!!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 25, 2009 - 05:07am PT
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Say Russ, did you finish the last couple moves and top out. Any remarks. Enjoy life yo dude.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
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Yes. And it is not something I would want to boulder out, pads or knott.
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KlimbIn
climber
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Mar 25, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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Not really OW, but still fun hand/fist stacking.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 21, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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Bump fo Dat Phat Shizzle
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Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
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Apr 21, 2013 - 02:28am PT
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ohh gee,
another opportunity to lookat me on the interknit!
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