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Knuckles
Trad climber
Everett, Wa
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2007 - 01:33pm PT
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I may be in the market for a new truck before too terribly long and I'm interested in shell recommendations. Here's what I'm after:
-I'm not against shells that go higher than the roof line of the truck but I do envision carrying touring kayaks on top so anyone with experience doing this, please advise.
-I'll probably be installing some sort of gear storage/bed system so suggestions are welcome. I did see the recent thread regarding this.
I'd prefer something that could be color matched to the truck because I'm vain and shallow and when I look out my window I want to see my pretty truck.That and it will be used for work and it would be nice if it looked professional.
-As a sub-topic, has anyone heard anything regarding 2009 Tacomas. I've heard that they were going to receive a re-design but I haven't found any useful info beyond that.
Thanks for any insight you all can pass along.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Sep 25, 2007 - 01:56pm PT
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ARE Toppers
You won't see a significant change until 2010 when the hino diesel makes it's way into the Tacoma.rg
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Sep 25, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
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In my experience, the best looking toppers are made by LEER and ARE and are flush with the top of the roof. That being said, I had a raised ARE topper on my Tacoma and it was really nice to have the extra room for sleeping in the back. If you want to get a raised one, get one that is raised uniformly. (Not ramped up in the back) This will make it easier to get a good roof rack on there.
In terms of roof racks, install rack mounts directly to the truck cap (yakima and thule have kits for this type of thing).
http://www.yakima.com/Product.aspx?id=170
Id avoid buying the roof racks made by the topper companies as you cant switch out the parts for other vehicles. You can buy overpriced accesories for your touring kayaks either way.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 25, 2007 - 02:07pm PT
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This is a simple snug top shell, which I ordered in a matching color to the truck. Get a lined one.
For camping, I have two layers of dual density foam cut to fit the bed. I simply fold them in half, forward, with the sleeping bags, pillows etc inside the roll. This opens up the back half of the bed for gear, which I keep in action packers. They are weather proof and very easy to load and unload. When I have to use it for a truck to move stuff around I just pull out the foam and the entire bed is clear. Having a nice pile blanket for a bedsheet is a nice touch too.
No experience with roof top racks.
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mtn_climbr001
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Sep 25, 2007 - 02:50pm PT
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I'm happy with the Snugtop Hi-liner I put on my Tundra, goes about 6" above cab height.
http://www.snugtop.com/products/hi-liner.php
It's holding up well after 18 months of use. I put in a deck just below rail height, the higher shell allows me to crawl in there comfortably, and sit up almost straight. Great for a sleep setup.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Sep 25, 2007 - 02:50pm PT
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It's all about Leer. Two trucks with Leer and not a single problem. http://www.leer.com/toyotamodel20.html
I personally like the boot between the cab and the shell for easy pass through and it's a bit easier to see.
We sleep in the back so I choose 1 side with a window with slide/screen and the other as a wind-door. Windoors are invaluable, allowing for easy access to all the crap that seems to roll towards the cab when driving or when fully loaded the bag that is way up front.
New improvement this year is that they sell windoors with screens now, kinda cool.
We run a Yakima rack on top for our various goodies including but not limited to: Rocketbox, Kayaks, Tubing, Bikes, lumber....
Go for a shell with some headroom. It's easier to move you and your stuff around plus it provides the possibility of building a cuddle-kit to sleep on in the future. I've had cab-high shells before and I'll never go back.
My .02
~Susan
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Sep 25, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
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If someone tries to sell you an ASTRO canopy, run like hell its a CPOS.
I have owned a Rough Rider (the canopy not the condom) and that was a great one and looked awesome on a Tundra, better than Leer IMO.
As others have said, use the kit and install the rack yourself, I used the rails. On the inside of the canopy where the bolts came through I used bolt hangers and clipped rope all the way around so I can hang stuff, especially useful for sdrying stuff out.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 25, 2007 - 03:56pm PT
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Ive had Leer, ARE and SNUG Top. They're all good. Get one that's lined and is above cap height. Buy a Yakima rack. Attach front bar to a pair of brackets with risers, the back pair to the shell and you'll have no problem with a sea kayak or canoe. Have an extra set so you can run a normal bar setup for skis and bikes.
Here are photos of how I set mine up. The bed split is the long ways so I can get bikes in there. It fits two and can be removed in 30 seconds. It's just tied down with a pair of cam straps. You can see one of the pair of straps in the back left side. Total cost was less than a pair of Yakima brackets.
My sleeping shelf (carpeted) rests on top of the side rails. I lose headroom but, hell, all I do in there is sleep. I'd rather have the space below to slide a full one of those bucket things. If it's gnarly out, I split the bed (pic #2) and can set up a low chair and cook, etc on the sleeping shelf.
Post up when you get yours done.
Mal
PS: Yes, that a bottle opener and bottle-cap catcher mounted on the post.
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Knuckles
Trad climber
Everett, Wa
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2007 - 04:57pm PT
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Thanks for all the great info. I'll report back with what I go for. Enjoy!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 25, 2007 - 05:04pm PT
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Snugtop! Shop around , get quotes and work the salesman for a deal. I found the prices between dealers to be a lot different. One in the nearest town quoted me $500 more for the same canopy.
This is the XV model with larger sliding windows (key if you have a dog). I was going to get a Hi-Rise topper, but SnugTop doesn't make one yet for the '07 6ft bed with the features I wanted. I have a carpet kit/box for storage and sleeping. It's no so bad crawling in, but you can't really sit up in it.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Sep 25, 2007 - 05:05pm PT
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Not much to add, other than I'd definitely agree that if you plan on doing any significant amount of sleeping in it, then the extra 4-6" of headroom are well worth it.
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Sep 25, 2007 - 05:37pm PT
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Mal,
That is perfect. That's what I'm going to do to mine. Love it.
Mack
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 25, 2007 - 05:46pm PT
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Thx for the props, Mack. All of my trucks have been done like this and I love it because it's so easy to remove. Bolthangers on the inside are crucial for hanging stuff (clotheslines) and don't even think about depending on the light that comes with the shell. If you look on the back window of mine you'll see a couple of circles. Those are for stick-on LED lights. I bought them in a package of three. Two go on the glass for tailgate lighting and the third has velcro on it and I can stick it anywhere on the knappy liner. Someone mentioned sliding glass...good idea. On the other side my forward window flips up so I can access the front of the bed. I also keep my cheater stick in the back. Most of the time it's equiped with a hook on the end. I use it for pulling things out that are out of reach. I bought the hook at a paint store for $1.95 and it just threads on the same way my Squid does.
My last bed had foam under the carpet. I thought I could sleep directly on that and leave the pad home. Didn't work too well. This one is carpet over wood and I bring my sleeping pad.
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crøtch
climber
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Sep 25, 2007 - 06:46pm PT
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I'm running a Tacoma with a Leer shell that goes above the roof. My bed rests on the rails and gear goes underneath.
The bed is made of three carpeted panels that can easily be removed.
The whole works disassembles in minutes.
For roof racks, I also have risers in the front and standard height Yakima towers in the back.
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cadl
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Sep 26, 2007 - 12:30am PT
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Here's my 2 cents:
1. Spend the extra $$ for paint (rather than gel coat). The gel coat will fade after a couple years
2. Spend the money for the liner - warmer, quieter, and if you winter camp, less issues with condensation
3. Advantages of hi-liner - I can fit my road/mtn bike inside vertically without taking off wheels.
4. If you install mounts for Yakima racks, the standard spacing between bars is 36" (i.e. if you're installing a space case, etc ... at least it used to be, check before drilling, YMMV). After drilling holes for the mounts, install a bolt hangar on the bolts on the inside of the shell. Super convenient for clipping stuff. This is how I bungee the top tube of the bike so it stays upright
5. I have a SnugTop for my '97 Tacoma. Replacement parts (pneumatic rods for the back gate, replacement handle/lock) have been really easy to get from my local dealer (both were $15-20 each)
6. I had minor water leakage issues during the rainy season. Silicon caulk around the windows and the edging on the base of the shell (where the rubber gasket sits between the shell and the bed of the truck) has fixed this issue
7. Install barrel locks on the truck gate. This will prevent one of the easiest ways scumbags break into your rig ... pull hard on the truck gate, shell door/gate flexes enough that the truck gate comes down, crawl in to the bed of the truck(now they're hidden from traffic), break the rear sliding window of the truck, open doors to the cab. I've seen it happen to a couple of friends. I installed the barrel locks the weekend I bought my truck, even before I bought the shell.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 26, 2007 - 02:29am PT
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how do the barrel locks get installed?
http://www.meterguard.com/page2.html ????
I've seen some shell designs where the cable to flip the interior retaining mechanism can be grabbed with a coat hanger and 'pop' it's open. never get shells with exposed cabling.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 26, 2007 - 11:12am PT
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I just bought a gate hasp and screwed it into the hatch and tailgate. I use a Master Lock to lock the whole thing down. It's cheap and bomber but, of course, requires drilling and looks ghetto.
Mal
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crøtch
climber
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Sep 26, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
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Mal - Could you post a picture of that lock setup? Did you lock the rear window to the tailgate? How long of a hasp?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Sep 26, 2007 - 04:15pm PT
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Crotch,
Nice setup! What are the two sticks for?
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 26, 2007 - 06:11pm PT
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Crotch,
Don't have a pic right now. Maybe later. You're right, it connects the frame around the bottom of the shell's back window to the tailgate. I drilled it in just right of center. Get a hasp just long enough to make the gap. I think mine is 5" but you have to measure yours. Might be more, might be less.
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Sep 26, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
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Knuckles, your post is specific about camper shells but I re-read your initial post and you indicated that you will be shopping for a new truck.
Last year I found myself in the market after blowing up truck after 220,000 miles which was something spectacular considering it was a Ford Ranger.
I had every intention of purchasing a Toyota Tacoma myself as it was suppose to be "the" truck to get.
After a fair amount of shopping and investigation I decided against the Tacoma and landed on the Nissan Frontier. In less than a year we've logged nearly 33,000 miles on the rig without a single problem. It has the "most powerful engine in it's class" which is no doubt! It will blow away any Tacoma on a straight away or grade and comes in something crazy like $7K LESS than the Toyota.
Me, I took the savings and purchased an extended warranty (not that it's been in for anything other than oil changes & tire rotations). To be honest, we've been pleasantly surprised with the drive, feel, power and price point the Nissan provided.
Oh yeah, one last thing, the Nissan now provides a Crew Cab with over 6' bed. As it is, last year we had to settle on a king cab in order to get the 6' bed.
Edit - the lock on the tailgate is standard.
~Susan
p.s. No charge for the consultation
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crøtch
climber
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Sep 26, 2007 - 06:58pm PT
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Nice setup! What are the two sticks for?
The panels are a couple of inches narrower than the width of the shell from wall to wall to make it easier to take them in and out. Without the two sticks, on a bumpy road the panels would rattle around and end up falling into the bed. The sticks (1"x2") are there to lock the panels in place. They also come in handy when trying to coax a rattlesnake to move off the road.
You can see them under the windows in this picture
and then the gap that's left when they are removed here
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Sep 26, 2007 - 08:51pm PT
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how do you keep em from leaking? please advise. mine leaks like crazy.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 26, 2007 - 09:09pm PT
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Clayman, which kind are you using?
and where is the leak? door gasket? door frame? shell bed rail gasket? slider window?
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Sep 27, 2007 - 12:42am PT
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I have a Glasstite Raven that is even level with the top of my cab. it comes in the windows mostly, I have completley sealed around where the shell meets the bed rails inside and out. its mainly in the windows. what have you done to stop this, all my stuff gets soaked. thanks guys
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 27, 2007 - 01:13am PT
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just checking the interwebs, there's a lot of folks with leaking problems on their glasstite's, but not a lot of solutions that I see.
silicon caulk will work wonders, but that assumes you don't want to open it again.
i'm just an average tard, with no skill, but if you have to keep the shell, head down the hardware store and look around for rubber stripping and or weather sealing strips. you might find something that will work.
my old, old snugtop had a bit a drip straight into the back of the shell from the hinges type problem, especially on that first open where the water drips forward to the hinges. I used adhesive and rubber strips to get a deflection of the water going for awhile. totally ghetto, but it worked for awhile. probably not the same issue you are having tho... sorry
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