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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 5, 2007 - 01:02pm PT
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Last night when I met my daughter for the Red Sox vs. A's game she passed off my Alpinist 20 (don't ask about the subscription snafu)...
...wow, this rag gets better and better with every edition...
the Pete Takeda article on Bob Scarpelli was just what I needed to affirm the total insanity of going to Vedauwoo this summer... I can't wait to be skinned like a roasting chicken..
I like this too, it puts things into perspective
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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The Voo!
I'm a rock climber, I sorta skim the mountain profiles sometimes, but I like the mix between big-mountain rad alpinism and American cragger dude.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Do they sell that mag in stores?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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It's a nice one, mine hit the Yos general delivery last week.
Only thing about that Takeda/Scarpelli article (titled "Squat") is that there are no pictures of the route that serves as the title and central focus.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Hell A
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Jaybro,
Some Borders books, and REIze sell it.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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great article, more about the person than the location.
Two favorite quotes:
"We don't create anything" in reference to his FA's
"I'm going to reduce my antipsychotic medication," he says. I can picture his eyes twinkling. "I'll start halving the dose on Thursday. By Saturday, I'll be angry enough to get up the thing."
edit to add, the famous face at the front will be familiar to some of the regulars here as well:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/faces-jonny-woodward
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Yeah, good read.
Think I will go the way of the Croft.
Hike in, climb everything on Temple Crag and be home for dinner.
Yikes.
Dude does more feet of rock in a day than some will in a season.
Unreal.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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There were some ugly truths there that I didn't think the world was ready for ...
"Mormon youth group leader,"???
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Croft's alpine squid and that dude with no toes take the cake!
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travelin_light
Trad climber
california
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all I can say is what a great read on Huntington!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Alpinist 20 is very good.
Over memorial day I did some of the traverses near Mt. Haekel Croft mentions in his Sierra article. What a beautifull area. The Point John to Point Wesley traverse is fun too.
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feelio Babar
Trad climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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great article on Johnny.
Agree with Trashman...this quote kicks ass:
"We don't create anything"
...and the following one about climbing not meaning anything...but how we use the things it teaches in our everyday lives that counts.
(sorry couldn't remember the exact quote)
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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J-bro...Borders and Marmot in Berkeley.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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"I flash a few grid-bolted routes in annoyed haste, including a 12b that in a distant era would have given my ego a boost. Now I feel there's something lacking: the route is all about finger strength, plastic-trained movement, and sequences determined by a line of bolts, not natural weaknesses in the rock."
I liked this from the Veedavoo piece...
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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And this one, From Johnny Woodward's profile,
"1995: Dog Eat Dog (5.13e [slab climbers can't climb 5.14 roofs]), Big Cottonwood, Utah". I dont know if it has seen a second ascent...Anyone know?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Thanks Melissa I'll have to take a trip over the hill. I snuck out @ lunch and hit borders, touchstone & REI with no dice.
I think I need to own this one.
Can I be famous for taking Bob to the valley his first time?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jaybro - If none of those places have them, a trip over the hill today will probably yield the same results. I'd say they will have them in the next day or two. Subscriptions arrive a couple of days before they hit shelves in stores...
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wbw
climber
'cross the great divide
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I think Peter Croft is a tremendous writer. He so accurately describes the child-like wonder of being in beautiful climbing areas.
Pete Takeda is also a very good writer. I once watched Bob Scarpelli fall off Seperate Reality close to the end of the roof. He yelled F#CK! so loud that the entire Valley shook.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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good point, Nef, I won't get over there for a few days in any case.
of course I could assign this task to my brother who works above the market place in emeryville and commutes from the contra costa burbs.
it can be scary to be around bob in those situations ... one time on Trench Warfare ...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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trench, eh? i figured that would be a fun handcrack for him.
should be in your shops any day now, already on the shelf out here, as usual, 2 days before i got my subscription.
one more issue on this subscription, then i think i'm calling it quits. if i can get it sooner in the shop, i'll save the price difference by not buying the one dog a year(font anyone?)
i'll miss out on the beanie, but i think i'll live.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Definate call before you go out of your way b/c I didn't notice a new issue when I was in Borders yesterday. Sometimes they take a long time receiving and shelving stuff. I'm going to Marmot later though and will have a look-see for you. It does look like one to buy. I enjoyed Peter Croft's article about first learning to climb in Squamish so much that I'd be interested to read about what he's learned from climbing in the High Sierra.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Peter is really a genuinely nice guy too! Always pleasant and friendly. Very easy to talk to. Or, at least the couple of times I've been around him.
At the Red Rock Rendezvous, I missed the bus headed out to the area where our clinic was. We thought I was going to have to drive out in my truck, or ride with the students. Then I heard someone say, "I'm headed to Willow Springs, I can take one to the first pullout," which is where my clinic was. I look over and standing across from the driver of our car, is Peter Croft, leaning on the roof, over the passenger seat. He helped me load my gear and we were off. We talked about all sorts of things on the short trip out. Positive Vibrations, for one. Real estate, mostly though.
Anyway, that's how a day that started bad turned around quick like, and became a great day! Thanks, Peter!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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J-bro...I got one at Marmot...20% off too b/c of their sale.
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mbb
climber
the slick
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Dog Eat Dog. No second ascent yet. Not only is the thing really hard, it is often wet and in the sun a lot, hence bad conditions. Garth Miller came through in the 90's and thought it was as hard as Super Tweak. I think consensus from those who have tried it is bouldery 14a.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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get after it Mike...Surely in SLC these days there is someone who can get er done.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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I believe Chris Sharma also put in some time on Dog Eat Dog and didn't get it either. As Mike said, the conditions are not often conducive to something that hard with a bunch of slopers at odd angles on a roof.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2007 - 06:42pm PT
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I think Sunrise Mountain Sports may also sell Alpinist... call , if they do I can pick up a copy and get it to you on Thrash THursday
and you can be famous for any of a number of things.... but to be famous for Scarpelli's first time in the Valley, you've gotta tell a story!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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"Becomes US citizen in order to vote against George W. Bush."
Nice!!! I also liked the line entry about him rescuing puppies. Putting up sick FA's AND rescuing hypothermic pups. Classic.
Wasn't Johnny Woodward on the FA along with Kevin Powell nd Daryl Hensel on Snap on Demand in JT? I seem to remember Kevin mentioning some stories about them while a party of us were out climbing it in May. Proud route, now 12a thanks to a hold break. Hasn't seen a second ascent on lead to KP's knowlege since it went up in I think was the early 80's. We did it via TR.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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My only bitch is that I wish the mag wasn't printed in China, but the content is pretty damned good, and it's the one climbing magazine I subscribe to. Sort of like Ascent Lite, but much more frequent. The writing in the two Pete's different articles was fun, it's a great trick to write a first person narrative that's really about other people.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Thanks Melissa & Ed, I won't make thursday thrash due to school stuff. I'll make it out to Marmot, though.
Well written article all in all. Even if Pete 'don't know Squat' (second ascent august '87, maybe a dozen ascents by '98) haha. I'm glad to see Bob get some recognition, finally. One of the most passionate and austere climbers, ever. You wouldn't believe some of the sh#t he's done.
Ed, Most of the good Bob stories I would not be comfortable telling in public.
In an article in Climbing Luebben said my greatest contribution to OW was getting Bob into it. I can't argue, glad I was at the right place at the appropriate time..
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