Making Pitons; What a Blast!

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Messages 1 - 37 of total 37 in this topic
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2007 - 11:03pm PT
I just made my first piton the old fashioned way and it was a lot of fun. I just might have to buy a forge and work on getting better. My first effort is crude but it would work.



Ken
Gene

climber
May 7, 2007 - 11:08pm PT
Ken,

It's a beauty. I'd have driven it 35 years ago when we did those kinda things.

Diamond C for Chicken - Oops, already taken

How about Diamond S for Sh#t Hot!

GM
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2007 - 11:09pm PT
Sorry Crowley, It is like a business that made it's first dollar. I wouldn't part with it.

Ken
scooter

climber
B loop site 15
May 7, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
Are sure that isn't booty......Just kiddin' that is really cool. How did you make it? Hammer and anvil?
Good Job!

P-Dub
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
Where did you make that pin Ken?

It looks perfect .....
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
Werner, It is not perfect but, I know I can do better. I had a good teacher.


Ken
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
May 7, 2007 - 11:15pm PT
How'd you do that? It's like magic!
WBraun

climber
May 7, 2007 - 11:16pm PT
Hot Damn Ken

It's the master himself .....
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 12:20am PT
Scooter, It was made from 1 1/2" by 3/8" chromemoly stock, heated in a forge and hammered on an anvil. Just like Salathe did it. I found the hardest part to be punching the eye into the pin as in the picture.

Ken
Howie

Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
May 8, 2007 - 04:30pm PT
Brilliant!
Howie.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 8, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
Nice Ken!
I can't wait to see when you finish the whole rack.
Zander
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
May 8, 2007 - 07:15pm PT
Killer Ken, artisan at heart!
Peace
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 07:23pm PT
Thanks, you guys.

I was thinking about what Gene said for a stamp and the only thing I can think of is a circle K.

Ken
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 8, 2007 - 07:27pm PT
Hey Ken, do you have to have blue tennies just like Yvon?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 07:40pm PT
No Roger,

I don't have anything near that stylish, I mostly wear flip flops.

Ken
grover

Social climber
Akanada
May 8, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
Nice work Ken.

I'll take 5, but only if you wear flip-flops when you make em.

Mark
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
May 8, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
The circus midget is required to wear his circus shoes. All us little people are required to stay at least partially in costume at all times.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
May 8, 2007 - 10:59pm PT
Wow Ken, too cool!

You made mention of this idea on Sunday at Swan Slabs...

Be careful, something like this could move beyond non profit.

Looks like alot of fun.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 8, 2007 - 11:07pm PT
I've probably pounded all the pins I ever need to, but that looks so cool! I'd do that, given the chance!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
I am all about non profit. If that would only change. Hey, I think I bootied a sling and carabiner you may have left behind. I am blanking out on your name (three letters middle letter an A) but, if you can name your wife I will make sure you get the sling and biner back.

Ken

p.s. Jaybro, when I get a forge you should come down and pound some. It will be like old times.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
May 8, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
Names are Jay and Jeanette.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 11:17pm PT
You got it Jay, I was close. Next time I see you I will give you your gear. Maybe at the Facelift. If you are down here before send me an email and I will get it to you. You all should take notice how I have slyly identified another Supertopian.

Ken
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 9, 2007 - 02:15am PT
One time at burningman (or was it bandcamp?) I hung with some friends from reno who operated a playa forge, cool stuff.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 9, 2007 - 02:25am PT
A thread that's both HOT (the piton and Ken, anyway), and cool. What can you say?
T Moses

Trad climber
Paso Robles
May 9, 2007 - 03:01am PT
Careful with that hammer and flip flops! ;)

I love the ring of the hammer on hot steel. It has that medieval quality to it. Taking metalwork back a few centuries to its roots can be a blast.

It looks like you are doing quite well, especially for a beginner! Have fun. It can be addictive workin' metal. I do it for a living. I don't forge but I fabricate and machine. I love it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 15, 2007 - 12:27pm PT
A little tidbit from the 1968 Chouinard Catalog at the height of the Iron Age.

The decriptive rather than numbered Arrow sizes also reflected the handwork still present in shaping and finishing the tapered portion. After 1965, each Lost Arrow started out as a drop forged blank with the die configured to produce a finished anvil, eye and shoulder with the blade area to be finished by hand. As a result of the die forging process, the original flat bar shape of the Lost Arrow eye was replaced by the tapered top web of the modern Arrow. Hand forging this web into existence would seem to be rather tricky and time consuming but produces a stouter piton.


Several Lost Arrows to compare.

The top one is a hand forged and stamped early version. The mythical and somewhat short-lived Long Dong, in the die forged mode. A numbered Camp Lost Arrow (the same approximate size as the top one) once the handwork had almost entirely left the production process and USA was replaced by Italy as the die mark of origin.
Edit:the descriptive size designation was still in place for the first generation of Italian Camp Arrows as of 1975. As to whether the handwork left with the numbering system or at the point of import is still unclear.

Ken- Please ask YC if this recounting is accurate. I would be curious as to his comments or observations here.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 17, 2007 - 10:58am PT
I just scored another pre 64 entirely hand forged Arrow on ebay for a Jackson! Never been struck from the look of it. Pics soon.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 17, 2007 - 11:25am PT
Ken, what a hoot. Next up, a set of bongs (since those are hard
to find these days). But seriously, you could make some cool
tuning forks for the masses.


Circle-K, too funny. But diamonds and circles are passe. Go modern
with a fractal.

BTW, what/when is the facelift?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
k-man,

The Facelift is September 26-30.


Ken
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 20, 2007 - 02:11pm PT
Another old gem and the Golden Arrow, the long gone short thin!




The handwork in this old Arrow is evident in the gorgeous patina and surface character.

MassiveD

Trad climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 05:22am PT
The forming part is no problem, but the heat treating, does anyone know. Being say 4130, or 4140, it isn't going to fully harden when quenched anyway, so is it just take to trans temp and dump in water?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2012 - 07:34am PT
MassiveD,

If I recall correctly, the pitons, once shaped, were reheated until they took on a purplish hue and then were dropped in a bucket of oil.

Ken
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 15, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
If you have technical questions about making pitons come and ask Tom Frost, Jerry Gallwas and Dick Long directly at the Oakdale Climbers Festival Oct 26- 28.

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/postreply.php?topic_id=1902674&tn=60

Sunday is gear day with a symposium entitled "Forging Ahead- American Climbing Hardware in the 1940s, 50s and 60s." Three decades of American made hardware will be on display along with much more including a staggering array of John Salathé pitons which will be on display for the entire event!

Ken will also be there so you can see his short video of the entire process as Yvon makes an Arrow. Don't miss it!

Make sure to register by this Friday October 19 to avoid a $20 admission fee.

http://climb.oakdalecity.com/
micronut

Trad climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
I think it would be fun to do a current day "All Steel" ascent of Nutcracker. For old time sake, ya know?

Lets be honest....it'd be a really fun day out.

Ping......ping......ping.....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 15, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
You da Micronutcracker!
MassiveD

Trad climber
Oct 15, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
Ken, that sounds like drawing the temper (softening). They must have hardened first. I guess I need to research what steel they were using, probably a standard spring steel heat treat.

It would be cool to run into Tom Frost, that would be a huge one on the not worthy meter. Any of those guys members here, and can one email them?

My forge runs off propane, so it should be California friendly. Though happily I live in Canada were all pollution is forgiven.

After a quick google.

The internet says, that ford axles are 4140, and that purple heat is north of 500. With a full carbon steel 520, would take you to about where 4140 goes when quenched in oil and not tempered at all. So my guess is that 500 is just a quality control thing to ensure that no spike of hardness remains in the steel that might undermine toughness. Or it drops the hardness a smidge, though the Ansi sheet for 4140 I dug up does not show a tempering heat south of 1000, so that would tend to imply that nothing interesting is happening at that carbon level, and that heat.

Another thing I saw put 4140 at 500F at 48 RC. That sounds a plausible level of hardness for something intended to perform like an aircraft part after having been pounded into granite.

I think in my neighbourhood it is probably cheaper to buy pitons than 4140. The exception might be in for RURP sized stuff, or hooks.
Guangzhou

Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
Oct 15, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
The Long Dong, like pictured above, was my favorite cleaning tool. Carried and used it for over 10 years. Let me ex-wife use it once while we were climbing in Yosemite, and she dropped it from pitch eight, never saw it again. Maybe it was sign of things to come.

Would love to replace the Long Dong, that's for sure.
Messages 1 - 37 of total 37 in this topic
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