Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 130 of total 130 in this topic |
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 7, 2007 - 07:37pm PT
|
So what's the story here?
We did this climb last weekend, nothing was falling down from above, first pitch is loose though but can be cleaned in a couple hours from a few loose blocks. Anybody else has gone on it recently?
Also, what's the deal with the bolts on P6, why did they get chopped?
Pitch 4 (Wild 5.8) is super fun, some incredible and exposed climbing
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
If there are some bolts missing at the anchors then the bolt police musta been there.
There are some self made bolt policemen always around.
Pricks, you know who ya are .......
|
|
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
|
Chopped bolts are next to off-width, all anchor bolts are intact
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Those were old and if they got taken out no big deal.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
No big deal pro-wise, but more retrofitting of history. Thank you, self righteous bolt police, you as#@&%es!
Probably very nice people in a different context.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
I'm gonnah go an' put em back in, plus add some, then start a thread about it: werd.
Things been just too tame on the taco of late.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
I agree to tame ....
It's time to raise hell.
They said there is no hell, but we'll show em .....
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Yah Werner, lets Rock.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Go, guys, put in some wierdness that will blow my fragile mind!
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
My understanding is that when the bolted anchors were replaced with new stainless 3/8" bolts, the crew doing the replacing removed the quarter inchers on the OW and did not replace them, since with modern gear the OW can be protected quite adequately without the bolts.
Brutus
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
What he said, glad they were there for first dozen or so times I climbed it, kind of a grounding thing.
On the other hand, maybe the chopper's ("theives of time™") kids can go to college through ebay sales.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
You guys are a sentimental bunch?
but "The Good Book" is one of the most beautiful classic free routes here.
10 stars .....
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
Try eleven.
Lovely thread.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
I'd give it 15 stars if Werner would go and dig out the first pitch.... prolly 70ft of climbing under that rubble..... Did I ever tell you guys about the time me and
Walt did Wild Thing??????
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
If you guys aren't bitin' into bolt wars,
Then shoot, I'm just goin' to post up pictures instead:
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
yeah, that right folly is about as good as they get.
but what about that, other, whil thang tale, Mr walling?
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
The Good Book is my favorite Yosemite free climb;...I did this with Wally Barker , and I loved it. I heard about the rock fall, and I was told that it was not climbable anymore;...glad to hear otherwise. Great shots too, Roy. It is one of my favorite climbs anywhere, actually;...it's awesome.
|
|
Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
|
|
Are the first pitch belay bolts still bent down or have those been replaced?
|
|
nate23
Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
|
|
is there a new yosemite free climbs coming out? I went up there and the biggest thing I had was 1 #3 cause there were all the bolts on the topo. I just kept climbing and climbing trying to get to the first one. * for sure
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
It was always on my tick list, perhaps one day.
That sure looks like a lot of rubble at the base of The Good Book. Did it come from the big scar above (dumb question?)
(Kevin, I remember when you guys freed the route, as I was watching you.)
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/gallery.html?r=yofogood
Also, what about that big scar above Rixon's, how recent is that and how much rockfall?
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Cool thread Folks,
Thanks,
Zander
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
Decades ago the start of the hard lybacking pitch was always wet and you had to claw up a flake on the left to keep your hands dry. I must have done that lyback pitch ten times and never once was the first bit dry. Can't figure how it didn't start sprouting weeds again - maybe too much chalk. It was a must do route in the 70s, a genuine classic.
JL
|
|
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 06:16pm PT
|
John, yes it was wet just as you described it, at the start of the pitch 3, little slimy but no grass or anything.
The other wet spot was at the start and thru pitch one but in a much worst condition: dirt and grass that I had to clear from the cracks to place gear. This pitch will have to be cleaned up again to restore climb back to a five star status and to keep climbing safe, too many loose blocks on it at this point.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
"What I fear with rockfall at the Folly is that the whole damn thing might peel outta there. If you've ever done Wild Thing you know what I'm sayin. "
I did Wild Thing on my 40th birthday and the only fear was ME peeling outa there!
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/WildThing!.html
I used to love the Good Book but all the rockfall has discouraged me from going back. That said, I think once you finished the approach pitch to the 10d, you'd be out of the way of the rockfall.
I'm light so I was disappointed those OW bolts got pulled. The lieback was at my limit enough without a couple fatty cams to be dragged up there. Sadly, folks were alreadly bailing before the OW final pitch before the bolts got chopped and now we can expect more of the same if folks get the guts to go back there.
That 5.8 wild pitch is a misprint, it's 10a. I'm ashamed to say that I was leading that pitch once and found my harness was getting looser and looser. I mantled up in the chimney-sort-of-hole and found I hadn't doubled back my harness! Good thing I was having a good day cause on a bad one I would have had a hang on the 10d earlier.
I really, really love the West Face of Rixon's as well. I did it numerous times after the major slide with only a stone coming down once in a blue moon. Then I went up there and after we rapped there was a big noise and then a cloud of dirt sweeping down the talus slowly from the West. We walked back to the car and NPS had actually closed the road, the rocks had come close enough to make em nervous. That has been enough to keep me away the past few years.
I think the grass didn't grow back on the 10d cause it slants such that, even though it's wet a lot, it would be hard for stuff to recollect.
Peace
Karl
|
|
Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
|
|
Seems like having the first pitch buried is a plus.
Boring grassy wanderings, as I recall.
Fun route. Good memories. Big tick fer us little fish.
Maybe the best route with the WORST summit.
I was knackered on that last pitch.
If I was on lead, I'd have been pissed that the bolts were missing.
|
|
BadInfluence
Mountain climber
Dak side
|
|
seems like we need more photos of folly in this thread
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
This thread jogged my memory of climbing Wild Thing with Dale Bard and Richard Harrison in about 1974. Some very unique situations on that climb, if I remember correctly. Here is Dale on the lead.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Nice
Did the "Wild Thing" but can't remember with who.
Free soloed the "Good Book" one day dragging two 7mm ropes to get down.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Didn't Yabo slip on the wet spot while soloing the second pitch and managed to latch the spike bucket about a body length lower on the way by!
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
That's what he said, Steve.
But was he free soloing without any ropes to get down and was he going to down climb the thing if he did it?
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
Hey Werner and Kevin, a bunch of us did a swarm ascent of 'The Good Book' shortly after it was first free climbed. I can remember Ron leading the long open book and I led the wild pitch that traverses out and back on flake. But I cannot remember anyone else.
I have b&W pictures of Ron leading the first pitch and then someone else following. Were either of you guys climbing in that group that day? There must have been 5 or 6 of us.
Great route, by the way. Too bad it got the whacked.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Roger
I think the very first time I ever did it was with Dale. Then all the other ascents are a fog. I went up there with so many different people over the years I haven't a clue who they all were today.
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
Found another picture. Here is Richard coming up the first pitch of Wild Thing bringing the tubes.
Werner watching from below.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Here's a Good Book story I just remembered and don't have the common sense not to post:
A good friend and I headed from Wawona to the Valley to climb the Good Book. A bit of guy talk and catching up on our lives revealed that we had both fooled around with the same woman on the same day in the recent past. (Heck, we were sorta young and this was California, but still, it was shocking)
So we get to the climb and I realize I forgot my right climbing shoe. Screw it, I went for it with just my left climbing shoe and an approach shoe on my right foot. Made for a challenge but I pulled it off with no falls. (a miracle since it's not an easy climb for me)
On the way home, I got a flat in my car, changed it, and then the spare went flat too. We hitched back to Wawona. Nothing came between our friendship, on or off the stone
Peace
Karl
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
Karl, are you sure that wasn't book of revealation? What if it had been the bad book?
|
|
Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
good pics - burly looking route
|
|
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2007 - 05:14am PT
|
Pitches 2 thru 6
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
I remember leading the OW pitch back in May of 1978. I found a great hold inside the crack, but when I pulled up on it, it flexed and turned out to be a big flake. Next thing I know the flake, which turned out to be pretty darn big(3'x6'???), comes off and plummets down into the depths of the OW with a very sickening sound. What a great route!
Bruce
|
|
hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
|
|
I remember having my hat handed to me by the OW at the top- that thing really kicked my butt. My arms were so blown that I had to pry them open because they were cramping up.
Still it was a cool route.
I had a list of routes to do that I had pulled from the great photos in "Yosemite Climber" totally inspirational
murf
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
anybody remember "Preface?"
Any of it still above the rubble?
20-foot ankle-breaker mantle before the first bolt...
Glad I didn't fall... boy was I stupud.
brut
|
|
NoRushNoMore
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2007 - 05:36am PT
|
Brutus, mantle is gone so as a first bolt
Warbler, I think I have a pic of that corner you are thinking about. Boy was it dirty. I was pulling grass and dirt out to place gear ;)
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 06:55am PT
|
I can agree with the idea of not replacing bad bolts next to the OW, and even chopping them away, if they're unsafe.
Good gear is available today, as it were.
Plus, drilling bigger holes for bigger bolts next to a perfect crack sends the wrong message. Everything done in the Valley can be seen as setting the Status Quo, and, as such, the Valley routes need to be held to the highest standard, always.
When OW cracks are treated like sport routes, with bolts for quik-clips, the whole gestalt of the sport sags, like an animal taking a bullet (plagarism, here).
There is something to say for leaving the pitch as it was when done first. But, if the mid-pitch bolts are dangerous, it makes sense to remove, and not replace them. Especially if the crack takes modern gear.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 10:30am PT
|
Just like runout doilies that can be used to cover up excessive bolts on slab climbs to regain that pristine look and feel, the answer here is ambiance hangers. These reproductions of antique and unreliable bolts features powerful magnets that allows the leader to toss them a few moves ahead so that they affix themselves in the appropriate metal filled positions. The ambiance hangers sway in the breeze and you can clip them for nostalgia sake knowing, as you used to, that they won't hold anything. The mock uncertainty completes the spell along with the twisted nail heads to snag your rack! Everybody's Happy! LOL
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
|
I like to wait for Fall to do things in rock-fall zones. For
some reason I think things stabilize by then. So hats off to
going over there in the Spring!
With that, we did it last Fall. Surely one of the very best at the
grade. I found that the first pitch is not buried, as people seem
to think. I also think that the first pitch (actually, the first
two combined) are not so bad--some loose stuff, but "creative" 5.9
climbing--certainly gets your attention.
The hangers at the first belay (below the corner) are a bit smashed,
but surely OK. You could replace them, maybe after the next rock
fall :p. After that, you head over to the corner and as Karl sez
above, I think you're in the safe zone from there up. So really,
you run up the first pitch as fast as you can, then you can relax.
Some day I'll have to try that airy "5.8", here's the 5.11 variation:
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 12:34pm PT
|
K-man, the airy 5.8 version is kick ass fun.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 12:40pm PT
|
"Ambiance hangers," surely a trend for the future!
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 01:09pm PT
|
Can't get much more "ambiance" than original Harding hangers.
Tough choice for the rebolt team: do you leave the originals,
replace them, or what. For sure, they weren't worse than those
two bolts in the 5.8 chimney below the Narrows.
PS. Nice solo Werner.
|
|
Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
|
Found this over on Mtn Project:
By Greg Barnes
Dec 28, 2006
rating: 5.10d
Note on the chopped bolts on the last pitch: we actually only chopped 1 bolt in the offwidth section, the other 2 had fallen out previously. We chopped 2 bolts next to splitter smaller cracks as well: a bolt next to perfect 2" crack on the 10c hands pitch, and the first bolt on the last pitch, which was right next to a perfect 1.5" crack. These bolts next to bomber hand cracks served as a good reminder that cams didn't exist when the route was established, and we couldn't in good conscience replace bolts along a perfect crack that just happened to be 4-5" instead of 2".
This generated a fair bit of controversy at the time (ended by the rockfall), but Harding never would have placed those bolts with modern big cams, and anyone who doesn't want to bring a couple big cams for the last pitch can rap before it -- you rap the route either way.
This is a sweet climb, hopefully the rockfall zone will stabilize itself!
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 01:36pm PT
|
... I headed inside the chimney and thrutched for my life. I was getting soaked with slimy goo and every inch of progress entailed a stout effort ...
Karl, a most excellent read on Wild Thing. I can't wait to not try that thing.
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
|
if i recall correctly, off white and galen k. were on top of the folly during the big '83 earthquake and they said the whole tower was moving back and forth and some friends they had plugged into a crack were either getting smashed from the contraction or falling in after the cams tipped all the way out as the crack widened.
scary like "whoa!"
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 05:29pm PT
|
Thanks radical.
I love it when my buddies see pics of themselves cruxing. Then they
realize that I don't use a Grigri ...
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
|
cool thread. I especially like the Wild Thing stories and pictures. Although I did the Good Book at least twice, I used to do Wild Thing every season in the mid to late '70s. I think it was the name as much as anything.
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
|
May 10, 2007 - 07:35pm PT
|
The Good Book is a good (stout!) climb, but man, what a crummy, anti-climatic "summit."
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 11, 2007 - 02:18am PT
|
As we turn the lights down low this evening, a little Batso lullaby for your enjoyment...a personal momento from when he played the Leaning Tower Lounge back in 1961. He threw it at me from on stage.
|
|
quasitrad
Trad climber
Corvallis, OR
|
|
|
May 11, 2007 - 03:17am PT
|
Yeah, a #5 camelot on that last offwidth pitch is (or should I say "would have been") a good idea. For a while, there was a long sling hanging from one of the lower belays with some writing on it. We couldn't quite make out the faded writing. But when we got to the last pitch we looked up and realized the bolts were gone. It was my good buddy Norm's lead and he sucked it up. Thanks for the pictures, everyone!
|
|
apr
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
May 14, 2007 - 02:43am PT
|
My partner and I did it in June '04 and August '05. No rock fall from above at any time.
There is a loose section on the first pitch. Place the belayer off to the left side. Leader trends *carefully* right of choss.
There were flattened bolts at the top of the second pitch. However, there is a better set in a more protected position.
Even in August, seepage was an issue on three: a little wet at start (careful with baby frogs.)and a bit more in the middle.
When we did the last pitch, bolts were missing and a survivor deserved to go. It was old, half out, and purely historical.
One each of big cams will do. The last half is the business. You can lock in well and leapfrog a #6 Camelot.
The top anchor was sketchy. We lassoed rock with web. You can stretch the first rap to the top of pitch three using two 70M.
MAGNIFICENT ROUTE!!!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
|
The Good Bump!
|
|
mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
|
Good bump indeed, I must have been out of the country and missed this first time around. Interesting to read all the comments about those bolts. We did this megaclassic route in the late 80s and the bolts were still there on the last pitch. We had one #4 Friend which fit totally tipped out near the bottom, and that was it. But my recollection was the bolts weren't even 1/4 inchers, I recall thinking they looked like 3/16 and not even good enough to dare to step on certainly not to bother clipping, though I desperately would have liked some help and pro on the OW. At that time the only prudent plan was to run it from the #4 all the way to the belay, cheered on by adrenaline and whatever other biochemical aids you had on hand, it was a pretty exciting lead. I'm totally unsurprised to see Greg's post that two or more of them just plain fell out - not even as good as ambiance hangers (great idea).
|
|
okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
|
Has anyone done this route this year? I did the 10d lieback pitch in the 80's. I think it's about time to go back and finish the route... Looked at it last spring but the first pitch was soaking wet (too early). I remember there's one spot on the crux pitch that seeps water. I think this is always wet in that one little spot.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
|
I climbed it in June. It was fine. Getting through the dripping mud on the first pitch adds charater. Had a 4 C4 Camalot, a 5 would have been nice. No rock fall. One of the best free routes in the Valley for 10+.
|
|
okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
|
Thanks for the info, guys. Yeah, my partners tried to talk me into the dry, albeit runout variation to the right- interesting that it was climbed by Tobin...
The entire first pitch was wet last time I was there. I'm already a character, but I guess there'd be no harm in adding some...
A left variation with some drilling? Hmm...
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
|
A few years ago I scanned some pictures of an early ascent of the Good Book. Here is the link:[url="http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=383333&msg=383333#msg383333]An early ascent of the Rigth Side of the Folly[/url]
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2009 - 01:13am PT
|
My favorite free climb in the Valley; The Good Book.
Here is Wally Barker on The Good Book
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
John Sheard leading the crux from Yosemite Climber. Jill Lawrence took the shot.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
No LEB backing allowed! LOL That belay nook is killer!
I have a stellar set of slides from this route that I need to dig out.
Nice art posting, Ed!
|
|
Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
|
|
I got on The Good Book in the summer of '07. It was my first climb after NIAD. We had taken a full rest day, inbetween, but I still almost puked on the 10d liebacking and jamming since I still appparently needed some recovery time. When we got to the offwidth, I remember all we had was a #4 C4, whatever guidebook we had telling us that was enough. I just sucked it up and ran that pitch out a lot. It was my first true "5.9+ offwidth" valley experience. I liked that much better than having bolts to clip. This thread brings back memories of good times.
While I was on it, there was definitely rock fall above us, and at one point we heard a shift come from inside the cliff near the roof that (if memory serves correctly) is at the top of the crux lieback pitch. We almost bailed as a result, but realized that it didn't matter when we bailed then or later, we would still have to go through a potential "kill zone" at the bottom so we just finished the route and did the last rappel and bailed as quick as we could.
Josh
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
One of the best climbs, anywhere....
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
hey there all, say, thanks for the sharing of the good book... (as with many of these climbs---never heard of them, but thanks to you, i am learning)....
say, as to this quote of werners:
but "The Good Book" is one of the most beautiful classic free routes here.
10 stars .....
wow--sounds very impressive in deed...
say, russ, and others mention rock fall... (haha, or he'd give a 15, he said) ...
say---i DID see some really great pics by tarbuster on the first few post---but i do not know if this is the rout in question, or if it another one that is mentioned, in these post as well....
so i am wondering... please:
which pics did tarbuster post... the good book? (or the wild thing?)
and does anyone have a post of what the rock fall area of the good book, looks like?
*i did not see all the post yet, so that may be there, but i was far too curious, and needed to post now, as i need to get off line soon...
thanks guys...
will be back to see or learn more...
thanks for sharing bits on this marvelous sounding rock...
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
My bro's did the climb back in the early eighties, and highly recommended it, but then rock fall and closures have plagued the area for ....... Shite happens when in the mountains, between The Folly and GPA the man is gonna keep us climbers safe....Thank gawd,,,
I'm glad folks are running up that area again and hope we can dance around MR. Natural and other GPA classics without fear of a ticket.
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
Missed this in '07. Just to clarify, when we did the replacement in '99, we removed/chopped 3 pro bolts: a 1/4" with homemade hanger right next to a perfect hand crack on the 5.10c hands pitch (forget which type of 1/4" bolt, this was actually removed a few weeks later since we forgot on the rap off), a 1/4" Star-Dryvin at the start of the offwidth next to a bomber #1 camalot placement, and the second of the 3 original 1/4" Star-Dryvin bolts along the offwidth section of the last pitch. Those both had the small homemade lever-out Harding hangers. The other two bolts along the offwidth were already missing, and that last bolt was part way out, with a red bail sling on it!
To be even more specific, we:
 patched two extra 1/4" holes below the first anchor (top of old pitch 2, base of corner) - probably the original bolt holes since the anchor was already bigger bolts
removed a 1/4" bolt on the left wall a short distance below the 2nd (crux) pitch anchor
replaced one bolt at the 2nd pitch anchor, removed & patched one more, and left two 3/8" bolts, one of which was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin
pounded a 1/4" stud (broken bolt) a bit more into the rock to make it more flush, part way up pitch 3 (possible old original bolt?)
replaced one bolt at the pitch 3 anchor, and added one vertically for a Fixe Trad anchor (with double-ring setup that they made for us). This was because the other bolt was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin which we would not have been able to reuse the hole (we could now with the lag bolt tricks from Clint and Bruce)
planned to remove the 1/4" pro bolt right next to the perfect hand crack on pitch 4, but we forgot while rapping, and I think Jack & Todd went up and removed that one later.
replaced one bolt at pitch 4 anchor, removed & patched one bolt, left two 3/8" bolts, one of which was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin
removed first bolt on right wall of offwidth, next to perfect #1 camalot placement
noted broken bolt on left wall of offwidth, I think this had the bolt sheared off in the hole flush with the rock surface
removed part way out bolt on left wall of offwidth, 1/4" Star-Dryvin
noted missing bolt on left wall of offwidth, and patched hole
removed & patched two bolts at top anchor, and replaced one bolt - there was already one good 3/8" bolt. We also removed two pitons at this anchor.
The offwidth goes from 4" to 6" back down to 5" or so...and by throwing a little weight on the follower on the lower pitches, you can be on toprope the whole way with a couple big cams.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
THe Good Book rules.
Too bad about the rockfall. If you make it up the first pitch alive, you're probably good until the hike down as the upper pitches seem protected by overhangs above.
Much safer than the north face of the Eiger or Matterhorn
More dangerous than most of the rest of Yosemite
Peace
Karl
|
|
Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
|
|
Is An Open Book!
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
hey there say, gobee... some very nice scriptures are on these pages you just shared.... say, i just shared some of THIS good book with a gal in deep need, tonight... and it really did do her much good...
wow, i was so very happy for her...
seemed she had been in a bit of a "rockfall" of her own, for a bit, just of late, and now she is getting to rise above it... :)
god is so good...
|
|
Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
|
|
Hartoni -
Good one finding the Folly of history!!
I have some photos somewhere of Vern on the 2nd ascent. Wetness required a couple of "pulls" through the streak as I remember.
Great posts from everyone!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Tom- Is the slide scanning getting any easier?
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
heythere say, dear (nov. 10, edit) "~~~~~~~~~~~~~", say.... if you look back, very kindly, you will see that i was so very delighted to see this wonderful find about this superb piece of rock...
i just love it...
and--i gave werner a very nice salute as to its magnifigance...
then, suddenly gobees's post arrose here, and i thought it was kind of a cute gesture how the name was used for his fast share of the another good book.... i was just being kind and polite to his use of such...
thus, i don't think i have done harm, so sadly must reply to you, it seems okay for me to leave my post here...
even as we all, seek to reply nicely to the post of others...
i am still very graciously awaiting more shares about the spectacular rock, called the good book:
being i am very curious about the rock slide...
thus far, i think i have taken care here at ol' supertopo, not to harm my beloved friends....
god bless to you, dear friend, as well, and may you have a very nice supertopo night, this eve, and many safe climbs and wonderful times, with your buddies, in doing so...
love to you, from ol' neebee...
*oops, and edit:
i am so looking forward to some great pics here, and too... :)
nov. 10, edit: dear "~~~~~~~~~~" look forward to seeing you again, with some neat post to share.... >:D
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
heythere karl baba... say, also, i had forgot to get this in, as to your interesting share:
as to your quote:
Much safer than the north face of the Eiger or Matterhorn
More dangerous than most of the rest of Yosemite
wow--i did NOT know this... thanks for the share... oh my!
still hope to see which pics are of the good book and which are of the wild things...
*have the gift to send you, too... was late for the mail today...
feel well and keep smiling... (like the injured list post, i will pop up there soon... have my own injury story) ... ;)
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
I deleted mine, Neebee. Back to the climbing...
|
|
Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
|
Steve -
Been climbing instead?!!
Such a bout of sterling weather I couldn't help myself!!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
|
Much mo betta!!!
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
|
hey there steve grossman... say, you're a good guy.... :)
*maybe i should still leave my reply, to "~~~~~" in case someone else doesn't understand that one post of mine... but i will "fix it a tad" for a friend... ;)
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
|
Climbing Thread Bump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jul 10, 2010 - 11:31am PT
|
The Good Bump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2010 - 10:20pm PT
|
Every now and then...
|
|
Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
|
I fail to recall the year in which I did this route with Norman Boles, Vince DePasque (sp.?) and John Tuttle . . . probably early to mid-80's. I had the fortune of getting to lead the classic "10d" liebacking corner pitch (completely dry at the start) and the following 5.9 to wild 5.8 undercling pitch. We definitely had friends at this point, making the lieback easy to protect, although I recall stuffing them blindly above me in a few spots. There had been no rockfall in those days but I did note some looseness on the topo's approach pitch . . . we must have done two to get to the start of the corner at Security Ledge as the Yellow Meyers guide indicates 180' to the ground from there. We were using 150' ropes in those days. One of the things I remember most about this adventure is that for whatever reason only Vince and I climbed to the top of the Folly pinnacle proper . . . Norman and John bailed (not due to lack of ability) and Norman told Vince not to let me bail without completing the remainder of the climb. Vince was living in the Valley in those days and he cruised the final two pitches while I gratefully seconded them. I recall seeing an original Harding ring angle at the belay below the final pitch or possibly the 10b hand pitch. The 5.9 OW was crisp and not too difficult, so the bolt removal should not be an issue except for the fact that it was nostalgic to see original Harding gear on a route. I remember the wonderful position at the top being wild and having a big wall feel to it and am grateful for Norman to this day for seeing to it that I completed the entire route. Thanks to all of my old friends and climbing partners for all those special years!
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
|
talking about that fourth pitch: 1974
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Jul 18, 2010 - 10:15pm PT
|
Kevin, it must have been sublime! That is some of what ground-up first ascents are about, what they offer us. That magic, discovery, delight, ferocity and secret puzzles. A great FFA, K. Really.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2010 - 01:31am PT
|
Great shots, Peter!
That route is packed with pleasant surprises and must have been a blast on the FFA!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 27, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
|
The Good Bump.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 14, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
|
Classic Laybump!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
|
The Good Bump rides again...
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
|
a photo from above last Fall. Lots of big stuff came down.
I bet the Book is still Good however!
|
|
Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
|
my favorite is paul 16:1 where he says that
all good men shall imbide in the sweetleaf and find harmony among his brethren and sisteren,
and so it is written.
on earth, as it is in heaven,
that means you don't have to die, you can experience heaven rite here on earth,
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
|
did this route in the fall. it was as good as I recalled from my last ascent in the 80's. splitter valley cracks. we wore helmets, for whatever that's worth given the size of the rock fall in question. the first pitch is exposed to incoming, but all the rest of the route was untouched by the rock fall and is protected by the right leaning corner
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2012 - 11:29am PT
|
better have a couple more pics for this thread
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
|
The Godfather approved, and the name stuck.
LOL
The "Good Book" is one of the all time best climbs in Yosemite.
If you haven't done "The Good Book" you haven't been to Yosemite .....
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
|
I have nothing to say. I never did the route. Damn.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
|
I'm going to go to Yosemite one of these years, I hope.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
|
Definitely not the Good Book.
This means you've never been to Yosemite .... :-)
|
|
TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2012 - 04:20am PT
|
I did it a cpl of times BITD
Once with J. Rutt
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ok so Bus' out, who's got the skinny?
I want to hear a recount of Yabo's solo, peal/recovery !
Werner ?
|
|
jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2012 - 04:59am PT
|
Thanks Warbler. I'll delete the post now as it has nothing to do with the thread. I do remember climbing GB in 1980 and finding the offwidth (last?) pitch the hardest. So what part of the route has fallen down?
That photo of all in jim's just above is fabulous...
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2012 - 10:59am PT
|
great thread with some great images
here's a low resolution image of The Folly that's tweaked up to be contrasty and revealing...
of course Good Book is the right facing corner on the right, mostly in the shadows, the picture also shows the infamous Wild Thing pretty well...
you should always take note of the vegetation around the base of the cliffs, if there isn't any it's usually from gravitational pruning...
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
|
Great pic Ed - do you know where the line of Wild Thing is in that photo? Looks kind of discontinuous to the left of Good Book
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
|
Just step out left and you'll find it David.
I just went that way and it became obvious once out there and around the corner.
Go for it .....
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
|
Mar 13, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
|
you end up in some crazy cave on wild thing - right Werner? Dave Altman has always told me it's a must do
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2012 - 03:04am PT
|
Wild Thing, I'm sure you've looked in the guidebook already...
step left off the ledge with the visible stacked blocks at the base of The Good Book corner, onto the face and over to a vertical crack.
That goes up to a big square-ish block, tunnel through to the left side of that block and up the cracks that form the upper left side of The Folly on the Left Side route upper pitches.
I'm skeptical that Left Side would go free for someone like me... it's aid from the top of that big flake laying at the base on the lower left to the point where Wild Thing intercepts it...
|
|
peter croft
climber
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2012 - 09:45am PT
|
Kevin, you sure got in on some good ones. As well the route names you picked were so perfectly matched with the climbs that they quickly rose to world famous-ness. Living in Canada I never had to explain to other climbers where the Crucifix or the Good Book was.
Anyway, my "special" time on the Good book started late one day in the Camp 4 lot when my friends were trying to decide between dinner and the bar. I was thinking climbing but it was late in the day. Like you said, Kevin, the Good Book looks over the campground and it didn't take me long to make the choice.
So I grab my shoes and run down there, look up and...Perfect! no one on the route. Deep in the shade the temps are perfect and the splitter cracks glide by. Man, this is so cool! I get up to the off width (the so-called easy pitch) and even that is fun. I grab the summit spike, straddle it and look out across the Valley listening to the swifts.
I can't wait long though 'cause the sun's left the Valley floor a long time ago. I launch down into the off width (always been lousy at the OWs) and start cuddling. 40 feet down my left knee gets stuck - kinda funny at first. After 5 minutes it's not funny at all and after 15 minutes I'm contemplating bivi-ing off my knee - it simply will not budge.
Finally I figure out that I need to try move up a body length or two. After spazz-ing around for a few more minutes I was able to do this, pull the leg out and continue down, this time with my knee definitely outside the crack.
By this time the lower corners have gone into gloom but thank goodness there's no fancy foot work and nothing is nearly as hard as the easiest pitch on the route.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2012 - 10:54am PT
|
Great story Peter!
How to get the most out of a route...LOL
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
Damn Peter. That sounds so nutty to me. You even write casually about it!
Bob J.
PS JUST NUTTY!!!!
|
|
Double D
climber
|
|
Great tale Peter... mucho hevos grandes! I'm with Kevin... down-climbing that slimy lieback section makes me a little yellow...
|
|
cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
|
A few friends went up and did this over the weekend. They reported that there was fresh shrubbery growing in the crux pitch and the first pitch resembled a waterfall. Guess it might be a little while before it dries out.
FYI!
Luke
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
|
Great tale Peter... mucho hevos grandes! I'm with Kevin... down-climbing that slimy lieback section makes me a little yellow...
At this point in my life, up-climbing that lieback would start me trembling!
John
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
|
I remember being up there with Ron Fawcett who had a 250 foot 9mm rope and we took turns climbing up and down the lyback pitch with a top rope. You could really get the burn on.
Tobin or someone also did a hard face thing around there I vaguely remember. like a direct start or something. Had some hard crimping on it as I recall. Man, that was like 2,000 years ago . . .
JL
|
|
dustonian
climber
|
|
|
May 24, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
|
Did this route during a short trip last week... super bitchin! Definitely worried about rockfall so tried to move fairly quickly on the hike in & out. Route itself feels fairly sheltered except for the first pitch, which is still pretty blocky and loose. Rest of the climbing is spectacular!
|
|
dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2013 - 01:26am PT
|
Good Book Bump !
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
|
|
|
Oct 22, 2013 - 02:56am PT
|
Fantastic thread. I Climbed The Good Book for the first time a few months ago. Too much fun! Can't wait to go back...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 31, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
|
Classic Corner Bump...
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
May 31, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
|
How much rock fall is happening near this route?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
May 31, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
|
Did it about three years ago. Didn't see any fresh rockfall, nor did I see fresh signs of ascents....pumpy!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2017 - 09:04pm PT
|
Bump for a great route! I hope the area stabilizes at some point.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2017 - 07:01pm PT
|
Bump for one of my favorite 10d corner pitches.
|
|
MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2017 - 08:18pm PT
|
Great thread. Thx, Steve.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2017 - 09:40pm PT
|
the link for my image was broken, so here it is again:
click to see it a bit bigger
|
|
| Messages 1 - 130 of total 130 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!