Discussion Topic |
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 19, 2007 - 11:24pm PT
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Brit John Cox asked if I had any more shots of Yorkshire Gritstone like the one I posted on the group photo thread. Seems the climb being attempted by Al Manson in that photo is called Usurper, which had its first ascent that summer of 1977. Gritstone history and trivia buffs across the pond are intrigued. I dug up a few more and I’ll ask John or other Grit enthusiasts to supply captions where I can’t.
Here’s the picture of the base of Usurper again:
Gib on the Joe Brown off width classic, Elder Crack. First ascent: 1950!
Al Manson soloing something.
Steve Webster on ?.
Previously posted shot of Western Front at Almscliff, with Nicky Stokes on the lead.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 19, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
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Those are really nice Rick, capturing the quintessence of Grit.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 19, 2007 - 11:40pm PT
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Thanks Rick - I was there in 1976, hitchhiking around, climbing in North Wales and the Peak. Quite an experience.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 19, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
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Now see those stone fences down in the background. They're everywhere. You know why?
Because they cut all the trees down and there are no more.
And as we walked through the pastures there's a lot of cow dung in there. I told those blokes that cow dung is pure.
They looked at me and said "help yourself to some". .......
Nice pics Rick.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 19, 2007 - 11:59pm PT
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Great shots, Ricky. What is Al Manson up to these days I wonder. He was a skilled and bold climber.
JL
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Mar 20, 2007 - 12:01am PT
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FWIW pic 4 is L'Horla on Curbar, but it's back to front I think.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Mar 20, 2007 - 01:02am PT
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Hey Rick thanks for those photos. We were in the UK last Summer and got to have a taste of the grit. Had a blast and would love to go back.
I'll bet John Arran could i.d. those climbs. He guided us when we were there and is an awesome guy. Maybe he'll catch this thread.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Mar 20, 2007 - 02:03am PT
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Those photos bring me back, Rick, to a trip in '74 when I climbed on the grit, sandbagged by the likes of Al Rouse, etc. Once I got the trick of sipping my pints in the pub at night, things went better. Love the foggy isle.
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Mimi
climber
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Mar 20, 2007 - 02:24am PT
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Stan Mish on Fern Hill, Cratcliffe Tor, 1982. Gritstone is such fine stone! Thanks for the correction on the crag name John C.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Mar 20, 2007 - 02:45am PT
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It's how they say... "just brilliant!"
I'm enamored with the place, even the sheep sh#t and the midges are endearing in a blood sucking smelly way.
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Mimi
climber
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Mar 20, 2007 - 02:52am PT
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Come on now! A pound per night to place a tent in a grassy sheep pasture. What a deal! The pub closed at 10:30 pm which was nearly sunset, until the season started, and then it was open until midnight. Nothing like rushing to finish the climb at dark and make the pub before last call. A pint of best, please! Serious carbo loading that was.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Mar 20, 2007 - 03:03am PT
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Cool stuff Ricky!
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Mar 20, 2007 - 06:49am PT
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Largo
Al Manson is still climbing strong. I met him at his local crag at Wetherby this summer and he's still as gymnastic and as keen as ever, lots of trips bolt clipping in Spain. He has a successful business building the frames for climbing gyms...although I think he is officially retired. He used to make it out to Bishop a lot when I was there, clipping bolts in the Gorge and bouldering at the Buttermilks and the Volcanic Tableland. On his rest days he'd caddy his wife at the Bishop golf course.
Yo Jerry H. I'll give you a call.
Mick
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John Cox
Trad climber
London, England
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Mar 20, 2007 - 07:09am PT
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Rick A: nice, thanks. None of Nicky S actually making the FA of Usurper?!
The climb Al M is soloing is I think Rugosity Crack at Stanage.
I think Jeremy H is right that Steve W is on L'Horla at Curbar, but if so I agree that the slide must be the wrong way round, I think - you swing left on to the bulge, not right. That would make the rock in the foreground the left edge of the Committed wall, I suppose (for Brit viewers), which looks about right.
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John Cox
Trad climber
London, England
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Mar 20, 2007 - 07:41am PT
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Bother - now how did that happen? I do apologise for spamming the place.
Gib L is at the point on Elder Crack where it used to be the custom either to use the broddling stick which was kept in the crack for that purpose to try and place a wire, or else knit two wires together and stree---e------tch into the crack. These days I expect people just reach up and place a large Friend. In 1950 of course I dare say Joe just got on with it.
It’s Cratcliffe Tor, by the way, not Cratcliffe Edge. My fault I think for posting the wrong name before. Nice pix – Fern Hill is SO good. (and by the way was probably first done in 1947/8: not bad for what was then effectively an on-sight solo of committing 5.10b/c climbing).
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Nic
Trad climber
Cornwall
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Mar 20, 2007 - 09:33am PT
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The Al Manson solo picture is a minor classic called "Gullibles Travels" I think.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 20, 2007 - 10:37am PT
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Great pics Ricky - I love seeing that grit stuff....
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Mar 20, 2007 - 10:53am PT
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Thanks for posting the pictures of Grit. I had the chance to climb over there in '69. Those pictures brought back wonderful memories of the feel of the rock, how the cool air smelled, and the beautiful country side.
Makes me want to save up money for an airplane ticket!
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thesiger
Trad climber
A desert kingdom
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Mar 20, 2007 - 11:08am PT
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Guys, get a grip. Your Mr Beckwith has it right:
"Have you ever seen the gritstone?" Geoff Birtles asked me.
I hadn't. We were in Sheffield, England, where I was visiting with Birtles, the editor of High Mountain Sports magazine, on a brief working tour of the country for The American Alpine Journal. With two hours remaining before my departure, I jumped into his Citroen, and we careened down the narrow streets, the rolling countryside greeting us as we emerged from the industrial pallor of Sheffield's roads. Parking among a row of neatly filed cars, we set off. The trail dropped into a depression, where we soon encountered a low swath of dark-gray stone, mottled with holes, cool to the touch. I followed Birtles, waiting to see the fabled grit. A couple of climbers were racking up, curiously enough, for a twenty-foot crack. Farther on, another pair was doing the same thing, racks of nuts on Perlon and giant hexes clanging at their sides. They must be out on their inaugural climbs, I thought, practicing as they were on these boulders. Suddenly it dawned on me that these boulders were the fabled gritstone. Dear Lord, I thought, the poor island and its inhabitants.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP08/editors-note-monsters
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:11am PT
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totally kick ass thread bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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For you Grit lovers......
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 11:27am PT
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If I had time or money, I'd go back to the grit. I was there in April of some year 2001 maybe. I got rained on, snowed on, and was the only person at tthe crag most days, but everytime I did run into someone, they'd offer me a rope, and then once we were rained off, we'd go to the pub.
So I'm out there on a sunny day finally, and all of a sudden a lot of people show up. I get talking to these Welsh guys and they offer me a rope. So I rack up. Well, I've been trained by Yosemite, so I stack up both sides of my harness with cams. Those guys just started laughing and pointing to all their freinds "look at all those cams," ha ha ha.
They were good sports so they let head up the route to learn my lesson. What I thought would be nice parallel crack placements was all wavy with perfect spots for stoppers, oops.
Those climbs are short, but they pack a punch. The way those cliffs are all in a line is like a well organized J-tree.
Tom
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
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Nothing like rushing to finish the climb at dark and make the pub before last call.
I thought that's what would happen when I first hit the grit, but no, the loonies I was climbing with (Ken Wilson, Martin Boysen, and a crew of their friends) just hauled out camping lanterns, set them at the base, and continued climbing. That made it pretty dark at the tops of the routes, but none of them seemed to notice. Or care.
It was in early November, so the days were pretty short and the only way to climb in the evening was to accept the darkness, but still...
Madmen.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
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Great seeing shots of all these “blokes” again, thanks for bumping. I remember fun days on Gritstone.
For kicks here I am taking a little wiper on “Profit of Doom”
That felt pretty darn thin if I remember right
What was the local Pub around there? The Moon?
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:16am PT
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Livesy????Whats he ever done on Grit? The grit quote I like best is"Thats what he gets for messing with grit".Refering to a leading limestone climber who nearly had his foot torn off while attempting a grit testpiece. Ilove Grit .Nectar..Harvest,London Wall, Strapadichtomy,The Jackalope.John allen,The Stokes brothers,All classics.It doesn´t get any better.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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I've already got plane tickets to visit family and to go climbing.
thank-you for the cool pix.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:48am PT
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Does anybody have John Allen's contact info???? or Kiwi pal, Jeff Shrimpton?
Thanks much! -Bruce Adams
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:55am PT
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I will see if I can get my slides scanned from my Day on Grit.
Strapadichtomy...always loved that route name.Eventually I did a new route on some gritlike rock in Penna.My partner wanted to name it Ducksdeluxe,I have no idea why.
We settled on Strapaducktome...
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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Grrrrreatstone
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Nov 14, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
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Not exactly 1977, but not far off. About 1981. Jerry “if you don’t let go, you can’t fall off” Moffatt storming up White Wall, MIllstone Edge.
Rob Uttley on the nearby London Wall. Rob died on Annapurna, if memory serves.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 14, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
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I love those black-and-whites crunch.
Where are they from... your own?
Got anymore?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 14, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
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Rick A - Awesome photos of a beautiful climbing area. Some amazing stuff happens over there, and I thank you for bringing it to me!
Cheers
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Nov 15, 2008 - 09:03pm PT
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Rick of course is the man and one of rock climbing's best spirits. I too have great memories of gritstone climbs. I've often thought if I ever leave this country my first choice is Wales... I love those people, their little houses without central heating, good food, good friendship... I have a distant ancestor who slew the Prince of Wales and was knighted on the battlefield. Don't know what that has to do with anything... Maybe that I'm tied to the place somehow...
Pat
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 18, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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The classic survey by Dave Cook from Mountain 26, March 1973. Inspiring, airy shots on classic toughs!
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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I did a UK tour in 1984, and gritstone was top of the trip.
Stanage, Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct (HS 4a):
Me starting on Browns '49 The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a). Best climb ever. Had to laugh all the way - until the belly flopping finish!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Such delightfully pure climbing problems! Nice!
This ad ran for years. From Mountain 24.
And a couple of shots from the news section of Mountain 29.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Robin Hood's sure looks like fun!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 15, 2009 - 11:05am PT
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Classic bump!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 15, 2009 - 11:51am PT
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it suddenly occured to me: in the summer of '77 everyone mysteriously had money to travel abroad.
heh.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 17, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
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The magic dole......LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Step into action with EB! From Mountain 54.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Michael H,
Had to laugh at your description of the top of the unconquerables. Was there in the late seventies, and had a time with right and left unconquerable. Can't remember which one I finally made, but the "slapfest" at the top was worse than anything below!!
Cracko
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TYeary
climber
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All that smoke up in money.....er ...ah..
well you know......uhm..
Nice shots Rick.
That bit of air time, was just testing gear, right Mike?
Tony
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 27, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
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Bump for Joe and Don's testpieces!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Nov 28, 2009 - 06:16am PT
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Ahhhhh, the Grit.
So fine.
Very nice pics, happy to see quite a few familiar faces (the rocks, not the people).
Jeremy Handren, you are my hero, that really is Horla at Curbar and it really is back to front. Very good visual imagination/memory. I am truly dumbfounded. How did you do it?
Graham, nice 'whipper', of course Walleye does not know that you slipped from the very very wide stemming up where the angle eases and couldn't (or chose not to?) place the small RPs or ballnuts in the corner and that that last piece is pretty off to the side. Not a whipper by Yosemite standards, but when the entire wall is 50' falling 15' seems like a lot.
Steve, so sweet scans. Peapod: you'll be laughing all the way to the top where you WILL vomit from the pain in your burning calves. Great slab is a solo. Nothing to be placed, so why take a rope?
Michael Hjorth, that is a very fine route, but not Robin Hood's, that's Inverted V! As you can see from Steve Grossman's scan right after your post, Robin Hood's is just to the right (crack) and you under the overhang in the corner to the left.
Oh the memories. Probably going there next May too, so come on over we'll make a riot out of it.
Lasti
p.s.
Not '77, but same routes:
For the rest I will have to blackmail friends into surrendering their pictures of this year's outing.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Nov 28, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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Lasti,
Ofcause, Inverted V! It rings a bell - far off.
Did the Peapod also then. What I remember most is getting out of the pod, fixing some pro above, not the burning calves. Have a B/W negative somewhere needing to be scanned. Will look and come back.
Michael
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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Great pics, guys! Pester your friends, by all means...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
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A classic shot of Almcliffe grit from The Book of Modern Mountaineering edited by Malcolm Milne, 1968.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Nov 29, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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You older dudes freak us out! It amazes us how many of you asse’s had a camera . Back then! We never had one, nor did we care. Foolishly.
Dogtown.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Nov 29, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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OK, found the Curbar/Peapod/me/1985 picture:
As well as more from Stanage/Right Unconquerable.
Preparing for bellyswim...
While I am at it, I'll scan some more from that trip, where we continued to Wales & Llanberis Pass. Wales, dark rhyolite, and rain goes well with black & white! Possibly a new thread?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
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This one is pretty easy to expand and I bet Ricky and company climbed in some other areas on their trip! Post away!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Nov 30, 2009 - 10:03am PT
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Steve, I've pestered them for the past six months. Results? Nada. But I am going to step up the pestering till they break.
Until then last year's outing...
Quite close to Quietus, much easier and much less straightforward: Kelly's Overhang, Stanage
And this one for Tomcat. John Allen's masterpiece from '76, the aptly named Strapadictomy.
The pestering continues for this year's pics.
Lasti
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Alas, my constant pestering finally broke the resolve of one of the guys. So here goes nothing.
Remember L'Horla at Curbar upthread? The one that was back to front? L'Horla is the adjacent crack to the left. Ever tried liebacking when the wall for your feet disappears? Welcome to Insanity, Curbar.
Something personal... You got the big cam present, now climb the friggin' offwidth Birthday Boy!
Aron putting the #6 Camalot to good use on Right Eliminate.
Did someone say Peapod?
So much for now.
Lasti
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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A classic grit montage from Mountain 13.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 15, 2010 - 11:14am PT
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No lack of wind in your sails, mate! LOL
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 15, 2010 - 12:15pm PT
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I love that peapod pic.
Z
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2010 - 12:58pm PT
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Didn't know I was being pestered! I'll post up some more pics here in a bit.
Rick
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 15, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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That's some classic shite from classic folks. Imagine all those lives and experiences.
JL
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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May 15, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
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too good to go away
Great shots!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 15, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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I missed this before. Thanks, Rick! P.M. broken plumbing bump!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 15, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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I think steve posted the the climb I've been thinking of. I also think the guy above the post from steve g. is on the same climb.
Robbinhood Arete.
That might be the one that has been bugging me since this thread and that other grit one started.
Way cool- some day I'll be back.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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May 17, 2010 - 10:47am PT
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Hi All!
How lucky can one get? This thread has been bumped from obscurity while my mates and I were on our now-regular pilgrimage to the Grit!
Just got back and thought maybe a few teaser pics would be in order.
Let's see...
You can always count on British weather to put the STORM into 'storming up a climb'
The pictures are not as nice as the ones from '85 but the climb sure is just as beautiful. Right Unconquerable, Stanage.
Gritstone par excellence: Thomas the Robot surprising his belayer with a jump off Nosferatu, Burbage South.
The guidebook says of an E4 6a (approx. 5.11a-b) offwidth climbed by Whillans in '58: "The bold (crazy?) can layback the outer edge of the crack but that isn't really the point."
Thomas the Robot proving he isn't all that crazy on Goliath, Burbage South.
How hard would this thing be without the pinscars of years of misuse as an aid route? Sadly, we'll never know. Bence on London Wall, Millstone.
The lads contemplating the future of climbing.
So much for now. Hope to have some more pictures in shortly.
If you think I should have posted a separate TR thread, you're probably right, but I want people to see all the cool old dadz that have gone before us.
Lasti
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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Wow, Lasti, thanks for the pic of Kelly's Overhang. I was at Stanage on a rainy day (big surprise) in '81 and that was only one of two routes we ticked.
Also made it to Millstone Edge for a day and drooled over London Wall but it was still pretty wet. Didn't stop my host from bouldering some tall 5c called Edge Lane or something like that. Grit is just awesome. If you could guarantee some good weather to boot, I'd go back in a minute.
I've always been amazed at how the Brits look so pasty and frail but pull down so hard. BTW, that .11a/b Whillans put up is called Erosion Groove if memory serves me correctly.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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May 17, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
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Fat Dad,
Kelly's Overhang is an exceptional route, especially taking into account that it's E1 5c or about 5.10b-c-ish and was put up in 1926.
London Wall has probably received its fair share of drooling, I know we've contributed plenty. Edge Lane is a very nice arete right by its Super-Star neighbor Master's Edge and almost as intriguing.
By the way, the Whillans OW is called Goliath, and once you face it you will feel like someone armed with a sling in the face of a giant Philistine warrior. Except in this story Goliath more often than not wins.
Lasti
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 17, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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Re the Whillans' route, Goliath, thanks for the clarification. Having said that, this is another route called Erosion Groove, a hard to protect or unprotected .11 that Whillans also put up around the same time, probably after a long night of hard drinking. Hardman, total hardman.
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GibO
Trad climber
Breckenridge
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Wow, the photos bring back great old memories of climbing on grit. Used to correspond fairly frequently with Al Manson. Glad to hear he is doing well.
Trees, yes, it appears that in areas with extended human habitation, the vegetation and and soil fertility have a tendency to disappear.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Wow, seeing the Willians OW reminded me of the tale of his first trip to Yosemite.
Was anybody at the base of Pharaoh's Beard when he layed it away?
Good story - true???
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 25, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
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It's all true!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 12, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
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Kinda like T M laybacking the Hollow Flake on the first repeat attempt!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 12, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
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The movie from the third ascent (Long, Steck, someone) showed Hollow Flake being liebacked also.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 13, 2011 - 08:39pm PT
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They don't call him Tough Mother for nothing...Whillans neither! LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 19, 2011 - 12:52am PT
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Lunge for the bump!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 19, 2011 - 03:53am PT
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Repeating some of the Grit classics are on what's little left of my bucket list. I really wanna do White Wall and Prophet of Doom.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 19, 2011 - 03:59am PT
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Oh, and Boysen's "The Thing" on some southern sandstone near London. Been on my mind for going on 40 years. When I think back to my trips to France, it occurs to me I shoulda gone to Britan. Oh well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Lock and Load for Grit Laddie...in 2012!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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My brother is maried to a gal from wales and has spent some time over there. He said despite Gritstones deserved reputation there are many many very good cracks there. They are just generally short. He was also surprised by the amount of bigger cliffs that you never hear of that have great long moderates throughout Wales and some of the other lacations he visited.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Thanks Steve I needed that!
Good apropos to start organising this years Grit-trip.
Lasti
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Just so I can bump it up and get psyched, a couple of photos for your enjoyment.
Can't wait to get back to the endlessly undulating ridgeline above Hathersage.
The likewise endless discussion amongst gearheads and the masturbatory racking, reracking, rereracking.
And all the man-eating cracks you can handle (or not).
Lasti
p.s. I am in dire need of some classic gritstone shots, so post up your ancient hidden treasures.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Great pics Pat, I knew someone would step forward and give up the goods!
Good thing you got a "crack" at the Sloth, the entire upper tier of the Roaches has been closed every time we were there due to nesting. Haven't given up yet...
Lasti
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 17, 2012 - 05:14am PT
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BUMP!!!
Because:
a) RADNESS
b) Going there for our yearly pilgrimage in 10 days.
And a little less classic picture of a really classic climb.
Here's what the guidebook has to say:
The awesome roof-crack is a desperate fight. Climb an awkward groove to a poor rest and then undercut wildly out left. The struggle to fist-jam past the lip is especially memorable and will doubtless leave its mark one way or another. Once past the lip easy jamming remains - if you have any steam left!
Sentinel Crack - Chatsworth
Lasti
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 17, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Hmm, I think that's it for now.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 18, 2012 - 02:54am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Nice shots folks!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 19, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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That's what I'm talking about!
Glad to see we could shake loose a few gems from Blakey... Nice shots and nice lines, great routes the lot of them!
Lasti
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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Bump for True Grit!
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perswig
climber
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Jan 13, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
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HowdidImissthisBUMP.
Dale
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 13, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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I stayed in Shefffield in 78 and Rob Uttley and others would take me out to the Peak District. We always would have some really greasy breakfast at a cafe full of climbers along the way. We all got something called the full set. It may have been called the Moon or something? Anyone else remember this place?
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:17am PT
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Marty, The Moon was the climber's pub at Stoney Middleton. The old joke suggested it lacked atmosphere. The cafe was probably The Lover's Leap, also in Stoney. It's now RIP, like most leaping lovers (and converted to an Indian Restaurant).
I'm interested that you climbed with Rob Uttley (and great to see crunch's photo upthread). Rob was a good friend and great climbing inspiration. His death was a major reason behind me forswearing Alpinism.
A very young Duncan practicing his finger jamming in peg scars prior to Yosemite
(Regent Street, Millstone quarry; about 1979).
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 14, 2013 - 09:41am PT
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Duncan, I stayed with this group of climbers in Sheffield. One of them was far better than the others, in fact I belayed him on what I think was an early lead of London Wall. We would also go buildering in town on this long traverse wall and the guy had incredibly strong forearms. Honestly I saw the picture of Rob in this post and think it was him, but I really can't be sure. I remember they mixed their hash with tobacco and I took a puff and got pretty sick. Long time ago. I do remember the full set though, beans,fried toast, eggs and lots of pork.
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:01am PT
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Marty, it's very possible our paths crossed at some point. As bvb pointed out up-thread, Sheffield had steady trickle of visitors from The 'States in those days. I particularly remember Mark Wilford, unfeasibly tanned and sporting a Hawaiian shirt, quite distinctive in northern England in the late 1970s.
Much better than the others, huge forearms and an early ascent of London Wall certainly sounds like Rob. I couldn't possibly comment about hash smoking habits.
BC (Before climbing gyms) there was a well established buildering circuit in Sheffield. Pre-eminent was the Broomgrove Wall. The classic L to R traverse is hard-core crimping and at least 5.12a.
(These are quarried gritstone blocks, so qualify for inclusion in this thread)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 14, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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Broken plumbing? Fix it y'self, Mate. Gone climbing.
And who's this "Climbing Jim" bloke?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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No atmosphere in The Moon...I love it!
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jan 14, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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Pre-eminent was the Broomgrove Wall.
Hey Duncan did you ever climb on the wall in Endcliffe Park? Used to spend hours down there as it was only 5 minutes from my house.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 12, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
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Brit Grit Bump
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Nov 12, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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thanks for the stoke i am leaving italy for england tomorrow. i'll hopefully br getting pummelled on friday on the grit!
my ipod won't let me post any photos from august. oh well.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Nov 12, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Nov 13, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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A young me (about 1981) on Technical Master, Millstone Edge, Peak District Gritstone.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Great grit thread!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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^^^Darwin that looks like you had a great trip. When I first started to climb in the late 70's Bamford was still out of bounds. Here's an extract from the 1976 guide.
"There is no right of access to the rocks or moor. Outside the summer period 1st April to 30th September small groups of climbers may be allowed access to the crag IF THEY FIRST CONTACT THE KEEPER, Mr.F. Darwent, telephone no. Bamford 458. They should do this some days before their intended visit to be sure of being at the head of the queue. Parties using the edge without first obtaining permission will be asked to leave and are prejudcing any further improvement in access".
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Dec 10, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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A couple more to bump the topic
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Mar 14, 2014 - 08:24am PT
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CLASSIC GRITSTONE BUMP
also,
Hopefully I will be there again mid-May.
STOKE
Lasti
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Mar 16, 2014 - 05:18am PT
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perswig
climber
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Mar 16, 2014 - 08:18am PT
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^^
Lotta that nut showing!
Excellent bump and pics, esp Blakey.
Thanks!
Dale
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Mar 16, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Thanks everyone for sharing all the great photos and wonderful stories. Grit is truly amazing stuff to climb on and the setting, with the rolling hills, farms, and limestone valleys below and the moors above, truly unique.
Rich in history, too, think of Joe Brown leading the offwidth Right Eliminate (E3/5.10D) at Curbar in 1951 in tennis shoes and a hemp rope tied around his waist with only one slung chock stone for pro!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 12, 2014 - 12:31am PT
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Friday Night Grit Bump...
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Enty
Trad climber
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Apr 12, 2014 - 09:02am PT
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Great little Don Whillans boulder problem called The Villain on a fantastic crag called The Bridestones on the moors close to where I used to live. I managed to get a couple of hours bouldering there at Christmas.
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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I will be there by the end of next week stoked BUMP.
Bumpity BUMP for Grit goodness.
Lasti
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, just saw steve had bumped this GREAT STUFF... thanks so much...
i CAN see photos now, without waiting for hoursssssssssssss.... :)
hey there, say, lasti...
wow, have a great time with this 'grit stuff'...
post some pics, later, too, soon as you get done enjoying it all...
god bless and great trip to you, too!
wow, after painting and in the house, so long and our cold spring, i am SURE ready TO cheer all the climbers on to good things...
miss the greatoutdoors, :)
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Higher up Brown Slab:
Both pics from 1992
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
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Bump for the glory of gritstone...
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 20, 2017 - 02:20pm PT
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Here ya go Mark
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 20, 2017 - 02:21pm PT
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Thanks!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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May 21, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
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Interesting to see this reappear - some life breathed into it.....
Here are some recent routes, both local to me here in Northumberkland and from a recent trip to Derbyshire - Stanage and cratcliffe Tor.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 21, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
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Wonderful photos, Blakey old boy. Cheers!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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May 21, 2017 - 04:09pm PT
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Thanks for the pics, Blakey!!
Grit is awesome. Grit, Flagstaff basalt, and Granite Mt and California granite...don't know which one is THE best, but they're all at the top of the list!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 22, 2018 - 10:20am PT
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Holiday Bump...
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 21, 2019 - 11:13am PT
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I have just started to acquire some missing copies of Mountain. This article seemed appropriate for this thread, albeit from 1973.
All of the rather dull caveats apply......
Regards,
Steve
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jan 21, 2019 - 11:30am PT
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Squirmed up a few of those during my time in Sheffield. Still love those days on the grit.
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johntp
Trad climber
By decision or indecision we are where we are.
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Jan 21, 2019 - 03:50pm PT
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Not England. Gritstone in Oklahoma.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Jan 21, 2019 - 06:11pm PT
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If I did an FA there I would call it "Nitty Gritty Dirtbag"
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Jan 21, 2019 - 07:17pm PT
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Peapod! Flying Buttress! Great Slab! Yeah!
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| Messages 1 - 140 of total 140 in this topic |
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