Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 55 of total 55 in this topic |
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Hey, the Mace in on Cathedral Rock which is well named.
Can't think of a better church. I prayed on top and then again before jumping back across the void!
Peace
karl
|
|
john hansen
climber
|
|
Nov 12 1958 according to Danial Duane's "El Capitan" (historic feats and radical routes)
Confirmed in Roper's "Camp Four"
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
White Van
|
|
Damn. The Ament book says 1957...
Might not have to worry about it conflicting with Sushifest if that is true.
Thanks,
Erik
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
mm Kamps, of course!
I try to climb everything in a state of active meditation. Always take at least a moment on top. Always avoided the jump on that one.
|
|
john hansen
climber
|
|
Did this change somehow from the FA of the 'Nose' to.. Mace, or have I lost my mind?
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
White Van, AZ
|
|
Luckily for me, you have lost your mind?
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
An Arizona classic!
Featuring your climbing models, Fish and Medium Sooze.
First pitch...
Second pitch...
Third pitch..."airy traverse"...
Third pitch again...last bit...
Fourth pitch...starting out...
Fourth pitch...crux section...
Final pitch...
First rappel...
Lets sort this out...if it's the 50th anniversary,
then it's a perfect time to get my 20th ascent
ticked off.
|
|
john hansen
climber
|
|
My mind just went naturally to the 'Nose'... cali boy...
So this route was done before the nose. Who did the FA?
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
White Van, AZ
|
|
Very Nice. Dave was thinking a Josh repeat of the slackline and sushi.
Maybe Josh shuttling sushi on the slackline. Bring your own soy sauce.
Yummy.
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
White Van, AZ
|
|
Date, please? Anyone?
And if it is around 4-20 it is going to be rough...
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
White Van, AZ
|
|
ITS ON!!!!
Josh is going to repeat his (unrepeated) slackline walk to the mace, Nature is doing sushi, and a good time is guaranteed to be had by all!!
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
IT'S ON! I'm filling a haul bag full of sushi goods and getting it to the top. Macemaki anyone?
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2007 - 12:12pm PT
|
shameless *bump*
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
White Van, AZ
|
|
|
Mar 12, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
|
Coming up in April...
Who wants to join us?
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
close to 20 people shared the summit of The Mace to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of this tower. The Mace was the first technical rock climb established in Sedona.
Josh and Clay (clayman) set up the slackeline. Pennsylenvy hauled up a pig with a gas grill, tofu dogs, real dogs, marinated elk stakes and makings for margaritas. I brought up sushi - which included uni, smoked salmon, seared tuna tataki, ikura, tobiko, masago, kona kampachi.
|
|
susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
|
|
Rumor has it, it was a zoo up there. Complete with all the goodies Nature noted in his post. That wasn't SushiFest skimmings was it? Who was the fella that took two hours to cross the slackline?
Looking forward to seeing more photos and the video.
~Susan
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
It was a zoo! But a good zoo...don't know about two hours to cross the slackline, but took a few hours to set it up. About the time I topped out on the lower summit, they BROKE one of the static lines being used to tension the slackline!!! Coupla biners weren't looking so good either...
Hung out quite a while, long enough to see the first efforts at walking the line before it got too dark. Took a lotta huevos to step out over that void. Clay (clayman) put in a pretty good effort on his first go. I got that in a movie, but will have to work on it tonight to get it shrunk down a bit for viewing.
In the meantime...a few shots...
Just kickin' back having a few margs on top of the Mace...
Sushi inna house!
Rigging the slackline...
Clay hanging on the line after making it a little over halfway across.
Shot from below as we were hiking out just before dark...
Another shot from below...
Happy 50th Mace!
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
Greg - nice shots! And a happy 20th ascent of The Mace to you!
I looked up and you were gone. Ya'll's didn't get any sushi!
What an awesome event. I honestly believe that T.M., Bob and Dave would be honored. It's still too bad ol' Yvon found himself in church instead of on top of the first spire in Sedona ascended via technical rock means.
Sooze: I did need to borrow a bit from the SF supplies. It turns out Josh Cross told a few extra folks about the event. But he was kind enough the point out they should bring $15-$20 so it'll all get replaced (and I probably made a few bucks). Along with the frozen stuffs I ordered mainly for SF I got some fresh uni and the fresh kona kampachi (see the poor charlie thread) specifically for this event.
One thing I heard yesterday that killed me. As I was topping out and hauling my pig I heard a party on the last pitch. Sound travels well through the cracks. The woman who was seconding was grunting through the crux (typical for that crux). She had a lot of great "comments". The best was "Uhhhhh.... IIII caaaaan't Uhhhhhh wait until the next 50th". LMAO
More photo's to follow (in a new thread!).
In the second shot of Greg's you'll notice a kid around the age of 10(?). He and his mom and dad did the climb. Some really neat people up there.
Now... off to practice my slackline skilz - I gonna walk this thing! *gulp*
Locker edit: As great as my sushi was I have to say the treat for me yesterday were the tofu dogs Pennsylenvy cooked up. I told the crowd "I'm hungry and i'm not making sushi until I get some tofu dogs!" I ate three.
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
I THOUGHT that was uni I saw all over the route in Greg's first photo! sorry I missed it!
how are the holds now on the step-across?
Brutus
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
Was quite the event!!!
Brutus, you wouold have loved it...it was truly Brutus-ian in all respects!
The kid on top said he was 11 years old. Quite the feat for someone so young to get up that burl-fest. And he was still smiling and cheerful at the top, which was cool too. Nice kid (as were the parents).
We were down at the third belay ledge enjoying the efforts of the woman in the crux that nature heard. Good stuff!!! She had quite the repertoir of colorful old skool climbing language! We were also helping her out with lots of sh*t talkin' and encouragement from below.
I'll post up some more pics tonight and try to get the video up for viewing as well.
nature: Thsnks for the congrats...20 times...it never gets easier. Sorry I had to split so fast...the light was fading and my buddy was already down. Had to boogie. I'm sure the sushi is awesome, but I've just never been much of a fish guy (cooked or not). Thanks for sharing the margs though!
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
Brutus - holds on the last pitch are fine. One broke off approximately March of '06, but it's still no biggie.
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
Well it's good to know you got some of the margaritas. That really would have been a tragedy if you had missed those.
Yeah, that woman really did have some "choice words". I was too busy trying to haul a pig to remember all but the one.
I was the last one off of the Mace last night. I probably rapped off around 9PM. I think we all know and can remember that peaceful, blissful moment, where at the end of the day you are the last one down. All goes quite. You're alone in one of the most beautiful spots in the world. It was a race for me all day yesterday. I awoke at 7AM and started to make sushi rice. I got preped and packed, drove down, humped the 80+lb pig to the base, jugged, hauled, partied, rolled, ate, etc. etc. And then.... Pennsylenvy wrapped and all was quite. The wind died and the moon was shining brightly. All was silent. I lied on my pig and enjoyed the moment - it truely was one of the most beautiful moments I can recall.
Thanks to everyone that was up there. And thank you once again T.M., Bob, Dave. Yvon - I'm sorry man, you missed a good one but your spirit was with your brothers and in turn, with us.
Peace to all.
Locker style edit: I just noticed I wrote "wrapped" instead of "rapped". I gonna leave it cuz it's funny (to me)
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
Nice pics Tom!!! Excellent!
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
Tom:
Oh My! That photo of the rodman is CLAAAAAASIC!
TM Herbert, Bob Kamps, and Dave Rearick (I think).
that statement is correct.
Oh, but it might be worth noting. I/we decided that the roll I'm holding is the Anniversary Roll (sorry for the mixup)
A very very nice trip report. Thank you!
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
Same here Eric! Nice TR!
Incidentally...I checked out the '57, '58, and '59 Editions of the AAJ (you have to look in the real ones because the online search only goes back to '66 or so) and find no mention of anything in Arizona, so that ain't gonna help us figure out what the real date of the ascent was. Anyone in touch with TM Herbert out there? (or Rearick?) that could ask 'em if they recall? Still curious.
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
White Van, AZ
|
|
One for Ouch!
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
That haul bag is full of sushi and sushi making supplies and little else. My goodness, Ouch! will have a field day. Charlie, the tuna I hacked up the other day, has some remains in that bag.
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
White Van, AZ
|
|
Yup. He gave us the remains, stating:
"The meat is for sushifest, Bisshes!"
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
MisterE - I thought my comment was "Looks like Charile's back on the table, boys!" (what movie was that? :-)
|
|
honemasterT
Trad climber
Arizona
|
|
Hey guys.. thanks for the great time!
Was cool, hanging and meeting some new folks.
Hadn't been on the route in 5 or 6 years.. uuugh,
getting fat and old suckz.. time to get off the
couch and get movin!
Here' my writeup
A photo of one of the 'slackers'
Wide angle from the summit
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
Good job all
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
All right...in spite of horrendous resistance on the part of my cable modem and Google...here's the video I shot of Clay walking a little over halfway across the slackline on his first go...
"If you see me walking down the line..." - ZZ Top
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6628623984806171525
Hey Nature!!! If you go back up there this week to try that thing (or someone else does), have them lug a new summit register up there!!!
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
folks are going up Friday! You mean we need a new register for the Mace, right? I'll get the book. I didn't open the register - what kind of register (book) was in use?
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
Yup, new summit register needed. I brought the other one down on Sunday (it was WAY filled up) as it was coming apart.
The last book was one I specifically made for the Mace and placed on Nov. 1, 2004. It didn't hold up so well over the long run (binding not so good over time and abuse). Just need like a spiral notebook or something similar. Can get fancy if you want to throw out the effort and/or cost.
|
|
honemasterT
Trad climber
Arizona
|
|
YO YO Yo.. I guess I had too much to drink
as I horked up the date on the title.
Who cares.. April 1st, April 2nd.. whatever it takes!
Mace Vid
Incorporated the stills I took and both Greg and
my video.
Sorry for the crappy resolution..
at least the music is good :-0
T
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2007 - 10:08pm PT
|
*bump* coz this is where we started the madness this year!
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2007 - 10:29pm PT
|
Hey Nature - I finally got back up there this past weekend to put a new summit log into the toilet. This one has bomber binding on it that won't be affected by the heat and sun. Wish I'd remembered to take a picture of it. It was a work of art. Dropped it off with a couple of new pens in a zip lock bag. Was a whole buncha fun squiggling up the squeezes with an inch-wide book in a slippery ziplock bag tucked into my shirt! :-)
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
Across town from Easy Street
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
|
Good work, Greg. Isn't that aid for OW?
;-)
|
|
nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
|
Yeah... excellent work Greg. Thank!
|
|
crunch
Social climber
CO
|
|
|
May 13, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
|
After talking to Dave Rearick, the FA of the Mace seems to have been 1959. Bob Kamps, TM Herbert, Dave Rearick. Yvon Chouinard was there, but went to church and missed the ascent.
It was also on the same trip as the boys climbed all free to the North Summit (not the main summit) of Shiprock, and this was in or around December 1959.
December 1959 is confirmed by this Bob Kamps appreciation website:
http://www.bobkamps.com/climbing_db/climbing_db.php
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
|
|
|
May 13, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
|
Wow - what a bump! I guess we were a bit off on the month, as well as the year.
Thanks, Crunch, I'll update the information in the Sedona Climbing guide sheets right now.
Erik
Edit: Hey! We can do it again in December! Woohoo!
|
|
nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
May 13, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
|
Edit: Hey! We can do it again in December! Woohoo!
'xcactly!!!!
|
|
Tatum
climber
Flagstaff
|
|
|
May 13, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
|
Oh! I can't wait! I was so bummed I missed the last 50th anniversary. Keep us updated!
|
|
crunch
Social climber
CO
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
|
So, to pin the date down further:
In December 1959, the team climbed two things, the Ormes Rib to the North Summit of Shiprock--all free--and the Mace. The Southwest was too cold and muddy and snowy for anything else.
The Shiprock climb was done on Christmas Day, which in 1959 was a Friday. Dave Rearick recalls that the Mace was climbed first, and was summited on a Sunday, which means it pretty much has to have been December 20th 1959:
So the fiftieth anniversary would therefore be........
December 20th 2009
|
|
nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
|
So the fiftieth anniversary would therefore be........
December 20th 2009
Which happens to be a Sunday...
Dang... sounds kinda cold :-)
But what the hell... can we get Josh to set the slackline again? I'll bring the sushi. Tim - tofu dogs and Elk steak and Margaritas?
Rodman had Kentucky Fried Chicken but my guess is he's out for this one.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
|
Wait... we have to do it all over again?
Oh... okay... if we have to.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
|
Wow! I just got an email from Bonnie Kamps out of the blue!
Here's an excerpt:
"According to Bob's notes, the actual date of the first ascent of the Mace was December 30th, 1959"
What a treat!
|
|
nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
|
Oh sh#t...
So that means we should just set up a camp up there and stay through the new year.
hmm......
Edit: Um... December 30th 1959 was a Wednesday.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 07:19pm PT
|
Maybe Bonnie typo-d the "3" instead of "2"...
|
|
originalpmac
Trad climber
Ouray, CO
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 07:51pm PT
|
one of my favorite ascents, period. Classic, plus Oak Creek has got some killer swimming holes
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
|
May 14, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
|
Mace? December 30?
errr... December 20th? What the heck...
Staying tuned...
|
|
drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
|
|
|
May 14, 2010 - 01:58pm PT
|
bump
|
|
| Messages 1 - 55 of total 55 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!