Discussion Topic |
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2007 - 06:46pm PT
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Found these interesting offwidth shots today and thought I'd start a new thread.
Just after the crux of the Regge Pole near SLC during the first ascent in 1970. Note the Robbins boots. Jim Langdon photo.
A picture of me looking up through a difficult bulge on the first ascent of Sandblaster, 1987. Wilford must have believed the stuff I'd written in the old Tri-Cam brochure, where I said it was OK to stack the larger sizes!
Starting the crux of Acquired Taste (first ascent), near Moab in 1994, on honeymoon with Teri Ebel, who took the photo.
Anyone else have shots of interesting wide pro, etc?
Edit: Should have said FFA of the Regge Pole.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 18, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
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The body is becoming very tired "climbing" in your "offwidth stuff" in the minds eye. It is very strenuous. The key protection piece has been forgotten.
A run out has now reveled itself as a possible choice. The nice partner below is shouting encouraging words to the tune of go for it. The mind is now reeling with possibilities that scare it.
The ankles and knees are beginning to bleed. Little does the partner know what state the leader has reached. The partner thinks everything is going smooth from below. The rope will not break says the voice in the head.
Such a thing is possible.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2007 - 07:10pm PT
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Your poetry gets right at the heart of it, Werner!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 18, 2007 - 07:12pm PT
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A very nice, albeit perhaps a bit unlikely, juxtaposition of blank verse poetry and offwidths.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 18, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
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I like the Regge Pole shot; the OW you'd just done looks perfect.
But those stacked cams of Wilford's, seems like rope movement alone would be 'nuff to tinkle that shyte right down the cord -yow...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 18, 2007 - 09:08pm PT
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keeping things wide here...
Brutus on Wagon Train FA
note 'Wagon Wheel' cam ready to be deployed. Note also which direction it hangs down. hrm sumpin ain't right there.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2007 - 09:56pm PT
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Looks like some bomb-bay action there, Munge...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 18, 2007 - 10:17pm PT
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Hey Jeff,
I like the way your picture shows the excellent flexibility of the Robbins Blue Bazookas. You can tell that you can just bend those toes right over for good smearing action.
Buzz
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 19, 2007 - 12:40am PT
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Ahhhhh, but the comfy heel and toe work always made the RR king! I guess that I just love the old blue boots since they were my first. Blue shoes, blue Mammut rope and a baby blue Joe Brown brain bucket was how it all got started for me back in 1970!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 10:05am PT
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Yes, Roger (edit: I meant Steve, as Roger didn't seem to appreciate the RR's all that much. See below), I liked those old Robbins boots, too. Great support on aid climbs, and actually free-climbed pretty well, too. You just had to edge everything - even on the Apron in the Valley, you could do most of the routes by edging. Heel-toe in wide cracks was much more comfortable wearing them, than with slippers (for example), as well. You could also do long walk-in in the Sierras, Rockies or Wind Rivers, without carrying extra shoes. In the old days everything was simpler, wasn't it?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 19, 2007 - 10:42am PT
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Hey Steve and Jeff,
I have no such fond memories of those shoes. I wore Spyders--I think that is what they were called--before Royal's shoes came out. I bought a pair of RRs and found that edging was a little easier since they were so stiff. Also the rubber rand was better in wider cracks.
But I could never get used to the size of those beasts or their stiffness. It felt like all crack climbs gained a notch or two in difficulty. I also didn't like trying to get my feet into aid slings, at least not the skinny loops that I used--they would not fit without turning my foot sideways.
When PAs were available, I switched to those. I think I may have also tried a pair of RDs. They both skated on just about anything since they had smooth soles and were hard, but they were more flexible than RRs and had a rubber rand. I switched to EBs as soon as they came out. Even when I climbed with Royal or worked at RockCraft, he wore EBs. However there are some pictures of him wearing RRs. He told me once that they did not turn out the way he thought he had specified them.
I carried tennis shoes or light boots for approaches.
Maybe I would have appreciated RRs more if I had not been so wedded to the Valley and it rhythms: arise and stagger to the cafeteria. Consume coffee and awake. Plan the day. If it included climbing, get the gear, drive to closest pull-out. Hike as little as possible. Climb, descend, shower, spruce up, return to the Lodge, eat, drink, carouse, stagger to camp, sleep. Repeat.
As you say, A simple life.
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Wes Allen
Boulder climber
KY
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Feb 19, 2007 - 10:59am PT
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People are always saying how hard OW climbing is, yet you can get no hands stances all the time...
The red has a few pretty cool OW routes as well,
Not my photo (Kris Hampton, aka odub)
not sure who took this one.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 11:13am PT
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Love those burly shots of the Red, Wes. Really cool-looking awfull-widths. But in that first shot, the climber obviously has a solid knee jam, so it's not really offwidth, is it? Nice looking jamcrack, though...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 19, 2007 - 11:28am PT
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I still do walls in my second pair of RR's and love them to death. However, once Ellis Bringham's Ego Boosters showed up there was no turning back for free climbing. One advantage of learning in stiffer shoes way back when is that I became acutely aware of weight distribution and foot positioning early on. I was inspired by Mr. Kamps' legacy to keep refining my technique. Solid edging skills really pay on the steep and airy routes like those on MCR when the pro may be distant. Climbing without chalk sharpened my footwork even more.
It is hard to imagine all of those classic Apron routes going up in RR's! But it is also hard to imagine a superior slab skiing boot when faced with the inevitable. One boot for the many faces of alpinism! RR should at least be proud of that. LOL
My personal favorite footwear all time was produced by the House of Hawkins in GB and was called the Master. Super thin toe profile and outstanding friction feel made these boots tops in my book even by modern standards.
Things were delightfully simple back in the day. Jello, you are absolutely right on there. All you have to do is compare trade shows then and now to witness the madness. To quote John Doe, "we got freedom of choice in the USA, drives everybody crazy! See how we are?"
Edit; interesting definition of OW regarding the knee entry! I have a 4" fist and a 5" knee width. Is my whole OW universe confined to that 1" spread? LOL
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 19, 2007 - 11:46am PT
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Nature giving it a go on Between A Rock and a Hard Place
Billy Russell doing something definitely not in the guidebook... Oz Area, Joshua Tree
Elcapinyoazz with the classic groin and heel bridge...talk about yer stacked nuts...
Fish getting ready to slap that hand stack in there on this first ascent of Boot and Rally
This one says it all...where did I leave those golf clubs?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 19, 2007 - 11:58am PT
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As I reflect more on RRs, I don't think I know of a single climber in the late 60s or early 70s who was putting up first ascents who wore RRs. Maybe aid climbers--seems like Jim and Kim had them. All I remember are Cortina's and the lesser Sypders, if I have the names right.
Regarding the width of off width, Steve, I think your comment--bigger than fists, smaller than a knee--is too narrow a definition of off-width. For sure, this is the hardest size to not fall out of and to make progress. But, personally I think that off-width includes getting your knee in. Once you can get inside--stacked feet and arm barring--its no longer off width. Still pretty dependent on the individual climber.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 19, 2007 - 12:11pm PT
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Roger, I was mostly ribbing Jello on the OW definition not proposing one. Do you go back far enough to know what Ken Boche was wearing during his Apron days? His name appears most often in the 60's on Apron FA's.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 01:00pm PT
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Monkey- thanks for posting up those images of pure off-width elegance.
Steve and Roger- I was joking about the knee jam disqualifying the route from offwidth categorization, although there's a point to be made that "offwidth" could really be defined as any crack that doesn't allow some body part to be jammed securely. By this definition, off-fingers and off-hands would qualify, and of course, they don't, for most of us. But Munge's photos bring up the issue of what to call some of those "off-body" leaning, flared, bomb-bay chimney thingies?
Roger- I put up hundreds of routes of all kinds in RR's. Didn't know you couldn't climb in them, I guess! Actually, over the years I climbed in all those other shoes, too: Spiders, Kronhofers, PA's, RD's, and then Fire's, which ruined everything...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 19, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
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I figured that you were asking a loaded question Steve on your 1" proposal--I figured that to be safe you should add a margin and call it 1/2". I also roughly measured the difference between my own fist and knee--it's about 1/2".
I am pretty sure that Ken wore Cortinas--the same sort that Kamps wore. (Is that the right name for those shoes--thin lug soles and gray suede uppers?) This was mostly before my time in the Valley, but I think that is what Ken was wearing when I met him a little later. Anyway, I don't know what else anyone would have been wearing.
I even have a vague recollection of Pratt wearing those shoes into the 70s--at least in the few times that he and I both worked the same sessions of RockCraft. But Chuck was just stubborn and super conservative.
Personally, I took every opportunity to give myself any advantage possible--new shoes, tincture of benzoin, chalk, tape, knee pads, young rope guns (modern phrase) for sharp end duties, multiple rest days devoted to the whims of young girls, wine soaked courage enhancement sessions
Edit: Kronhofers--that's what they were. Thanks Jeff. Cortina was the company that made the Spyders. Kronhofers are the shoes that I remember everyone wearing.
So, Jeff, would it crush your spirts so much if you learned at this late date that all those desperate climbs you did in RRs were all 5.3 in regular climbing shoes? Just asking?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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HaHaHa...They're not, Roger! But if they were - yes, my spirits would be devastated.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 19, 2007 - 01:31pm PT
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I can remember during my first few years in the Valley I could only afford one pair of good shoes at a time and I always got them skin tight in order to boulder and face climb. Heel and toe jamming was torturous in those tight boots. I remember lybacking some off-size climbs just so my feet wouldn't start crying.
JL
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 19, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
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That was one advantage to RRs--no foot pain.
Anyway, Jeff, as a friend of mine at the time qouted to me, "It's the singer, not the song."
Hey, John did you ever wear Kronhofers? Did anyone posting on ST ever wear them? Maybe Stannard and his Eastern cohorts.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 19, 2007 - 02:13pm PT
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I had some grey shoes in the early 1970s, but can't remember their name. They were much like RRs - solid grey, toe but no heel cap (?), stiff, light vibram sole. I got them at REI in 1972. They weren't Kronhoffer's, but what were they?
The grey shoes, and RRs, were quite good for climbing at Squamish in the early 1970s. Lots of mixed climbing (free/aid), most of the friction was edgeable. With flexible legs, you could sort of smear with them.
We used to go to REI or the Swallow's Nest in Seattle to get gear, usually en route to Leavenworth or Yosemite. Eric was the first to catch on to RDs (Rene Desmaison - the brown, smooth sole shoes) and then EBs, in late 1973. There were a few other shoes of similar ilk that appeared at the same time, but I can't remember their names. I don't think they were ever very popular, although the EB was undeservedly popular, and a classic case of abuse of a near-monopoly.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 19, 2007 - 02:16pm PT
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It seems that when I was too poor to afford two or more pairs of shoes, I always went tight, so wide was murderous like JL says, liebacking to follow a climb was almost de rigeur (sp?).
Jello, I figure bombays have to be completely horizontal, or almost so. Flares though are vague and nebulous, but anything with an edge to the crack that is rounded can count, specifically where you can't utilize your feet where you could normally using an outside edge.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 19, 2007 - 05:19pm PT
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That is a 'Scuffwidth' sized crack.
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 20, 2007 - 01:13am PT
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Largo, speaking of OW horror. If you don't mind sharing this one again, how about a tale of your singular and personal approach to managing the Harding Slot. I think it qualifies as OW for you, mighty one.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 20, 2007 - 01:27am PT
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Hey Roger,
Whaddaya mean, -um to paraphrase, "Grey shoes people usetah climb in."
...these proud hush puppies are actualy a Kronie copy, called a Voyager Directissima and I got em new, outa the box, just last year.
I've also gone through 3 pair of Robbin's boots in the last 10 years, all used for lots of mileage and 4th/easy 5th in the mountains.
Plus, 'seen it with my own dope adled eyes, John Lonne strolling New Gen, a 5.11 at Suicide Rock, in them Blue Bazookas.
I know, I know, whudever Roy.
Back to you John Long...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Feb 20, 2007 - 01:29am PT
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hrm makes me think about the Narrows.
Has anyone actually taken a tape measure with them on Steck and measured how wide that squeeze is?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 20, 2007 - 01:35am PT
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Mungie,
I'm guessin' The Narrows is about 11"
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:19am PT
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Wes & steelmnkey
Those are great photos.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:28am PT
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These two shots are of Innervisions, Disneyland Dome, Josh. I got in a big tube up high and some junky tcu in a flake inside. Pretty stout for 5.9
This is a new route in Josh near the Mystic Cove. 5.11 ish.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:47am PT
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Hmm? I'll get the scanner going, soon.
I tend to throw anything bigger than fists and less then almost full thigh width into the category of offwidth. I think of squeeze chimneys as a subset of OW, more than one of chimenys.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 20, 2007 - 08:56am PT
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Hi Kevin,
"...I remember wearing them (Kronhofers) every day to class also, probably one of the reasons why all the chicks steered clear of the climber freak..."
That is too funny. And somehow we all managed to make it this far.
I have started a new book, A History of Climbing in 6 Shoes. Interesting read. Never really thought about climbers all sharing the same fetish.
Buzz
Gotta fix my PCs--today I cannot see any of the pictures on either my office portable or my home desk top. The one expressing "I golf in my other life," is a classic. It that you 'steelmnkey?'
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 20, 2007 - 09:20am PT
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A shot of Brutus in The Narrows (from the Brutus appreciation thread). With my 46" chest, I chose to squiggle to the outside and climb up that way. It was too late in the day to be horsing around with a stuck monkey!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 20, 2007 - 09:29am PT
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Wow, a 46' chest! Are you like a porn star or somethin?
Redefines the whole off-width/squeeze chimney debate.
Just teasing, Buzz
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 20, 2007 - 09:41am PT
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Hell, Largo probably had a 46 inch chest when he was 11.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:26pm PT
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Porn star Buck Naked, that's me! NOT!
Here's a shot of the one time I just HAD to get that
#5 Big Bro out and scuffed up. It was a Christmas present
from my wife. What a gal!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Nice pic of a bro in action, SteelMonkey. Never seen one set before.
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Moof
Trad climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Feb 20, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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Love the #5. It's the only piece of gear I've placed BEHIND myself. Of course, that's the ONLY time I've actually placed it...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 20, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
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Not sure I would have wanted to tumble down that chimney and hope that #5 would hold, but it was mostly just about USING it that day.
Me 'n my buddy on the summit!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 20, 2007 - 08:57pm PT
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Here's some morefor those with a wide attention span;
I know, an aid ascent
(Tar, I've got RR's and had Kronehoffers till a girlfriend threw them away but those leather pants are still creepy.)
but, monkey that's the unit!
I was always gonna do regge pole when I lived in SLC, oh well, sigh/
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 20, 2007 - 09:02pm PT
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So beautifully sick Jaybro! What a body of work you've assembled!
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Feb 20, 2007 - 09:31pm PT
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I hope when I fall asleep and roll my truck it's Jaybro standing there by the road because he's the human Jaws of Life. That's some impressive shyte right there. No stacked tri-cams though, which is a little light duty.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 20, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
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JayBro is my idol!
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
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Mimi is right. What a work of your body you've assembled, Jaybro!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 20, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
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Jeebus!
...an on-slot of burly manliness.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 20, 2007 - 11:59pm PT
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Tar: That was simply offal!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Feb 21, 2007 - 12:00am PT
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Jaybro,
Damn Dude, we bow and obey! Mustt.. find.. offwidth....
Zander
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 21, 2007 - 12:26am PT
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Fuchit,
That's it!
If Jay can post all those neato wide shots,
Then I'm slammin' up shots of my boots:
Of all the stiff soled shoes, these steel shanked Vasque by far climbed the best; especially in Eldo. Not that I'd know really, as I started out in the red PA's -for me these are another item for the scrambling/high peaks quiver:
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:17am PT
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Was that Dick Cillie in one of those pics, Jaybro? I didn't know that he did offwidth.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:34am PT
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Yeah, that's Dick on bad ass moma, impropability drive (granite mtn) and in a hole in Josh.
Also he either took the photo on elephant's Eliminate or was the belyaer.
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Feb 21, 2007 - 11:27am PT
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WooHoo
This is a real megadose.
Awesome collection.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 21, 2007 - 11:37am PT
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I have yet to be upside down in an offwidth. Someone's gonna have to show me that that technique allows me to do something that I wouldn't be able to do using more conventional means.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 21, 2007 - 11:44am PT
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Dick lives for hard OW.
EEyonk; most of that roof stuff involves inverting off of hand stacks and stuffing legs up into it, often on either side of the stack...
Anyone remember a pretty stout roof crack/boulder problem/tr in Josh, which is found along the way to Hyperion Arch area? I think I was shown it either by Dick or Billy Russel; I vaguely recall getting clipped in to the rope after emerging from underneath the belly of the thing, at a point where it becomes more a TR than a boulder problem. It would be along the approach road, on the right as you're hiking out there.
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Feb 21, 2007 - 11:49am PT
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The artist formerly known as Grug sez:
I have yet to be upside down in an offwidth. Someone's gonna have to show me that that technique allows me to do something that I wouldn't be able to do using more conventional means.
I wanna audit that class!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 21, 2007 - 11:51am PT
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I was just giving Dick some sh#t. We haven't heard from him in a while.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 21, 2007 - 11:54am PT
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Yah and you gotta be pullin' our chain with your feigned ignorance of that invert stuff too right?
I mean, I feel pretty goofy dispensing that info your way. Nice troll...
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 21, 2007 - 12:08pm PT
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No, I meant that Tarbuster. I have never inverted - never needed to. Wouldn't even know how to start.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Feb 21, 2007 - 12:20pm PT
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First rule of Invert.... nobody talks about invert....
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Feb 21, 2007 - 12:46pm PT
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J-lo, thought you might get a kick out of this bros work.
Grounds for infringement?...
#3
some nice shots all-inspirin. I love a good "back rope" pic...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Feb 21, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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On the (side-) (off-) topic of shoes...
RR's worked pretty well in the Gunks, but RD's were better. Kronhofer's, which were popular out West, were not good for steep edging. Spider's were better because they were stiffer, Zillertals not quite so good.
And yes, Kamps wore Cortinas, which wouldn't qualify nowadays as a good approach shoe. But there are plenty of folks sketched out of their minds in their latest high-tech footwear trying to follow Kamps' Cortina-shod ascents...
I thought RR's excelled as "mountaineering" boots. I recall hiking in (that's right, no effin' canoe) and climbing both the regular South Buttress and the South Buttress East of Mt. Moran in them, as well as the complete Exum Ridge on the Grand. Here, the top of the Black Face:
We used 'em in the Wind Rivers:
And on lots of routes in the Bugaboos. Smear 'em with SnoSeal every morning for the glaciar hike, cover 'em with high gaitors, and off you go.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:18pm PT
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This only goes to prove that Off Width climbing is brutal and should only be taken on by the not-so-faint-of-heart.
Keep those pictures comin'. I just like seeing people in the pits of hell!!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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Offwidth is easy...comedy's hard.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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I just flew in from Lucille...and boy are my arms tired.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 21, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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Ain't it the truth, yonk.
oh, yo,yo,yo...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 21, 2007 - 11:51pm PT
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"First rule of Invert.... nobody talks about invert...."
anyone ever do the one below without inverting?
yeah, yeah, the tape thing, what can I say? a month on the high plains ensures evulsions.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 22, 2007 - 12:16am PT
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Blue knuckles and blue boots on the high plains....boy howdy.
And only Dick Cilley would call you a pussy for the shredwrap!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 22, 2007 - 01:58am PT
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 24, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
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Hilarious Roy. I know I've almost looked like that on a few.
Calling Largo....please tell us about your frolick with the Harding Slot.
The great (but never late) Eric Goukas had a similar time on it because he was too large to fit inside.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 24, 2007 - 06:14pm PT
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You think that's too aggressive for a proper tape job Mimi?
While we're waiting for more burly OW posts, here's one fer the sub-topic, stiff old school boots.
Sheesh, Roger says no one climbed hard free in them; why here I am about to cast off into Astroman's enduro corner:
(Ok, maybe it's the 5.7 summit pitch on Matterhorn Peak)
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 24, 2007 - 07:22pm PT
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That looks like the Enduro Corner to me--only looking down. Weird perspective. Must be the boots and hat. (You can do an inverted 'iron cross'? Then, you can climb in RRs.)
Buzz
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 12:25am PT
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Alright Largo,
Here's the chickeneye view up into the beast. Should get the old time offwidth juices just a bubbling up right quick I reckon.
Pictured is Hugh Herr en route to the worst case of bloody knees that I can recall. The wonderous lad had only led two chimney pitches at any grade prior to throwing himself at this infamous pitch! An afternoon jaunt hauling a pack in five hours. It doesn't get better than Astroman.......really!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2007 - 12:40am PT
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Each time squirreling into that slot, I've been absolutely flabbergasted by the reports of others, even imagining the remote propositon of actually going outside that thing: absolutely NFW.
Nice shot Steve. I wish I had some. I wonder if we have enough Taco'ers holdin' to float an AstroThread.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 12:51am PT
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Regge Pole...
The one I did was in Little Slide Canyon...
Hope the East Face Dihedrals never sees a repeat.
Cr@p route.
But it did have lots (and lots) of OWs!!
Brutus (no photos, too gripped)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 25, 2007 - 01:06am PT
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What Tar said, it's not that narrow(?)
now you're a tease Brucus.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 01:46am PT
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Steve
I think you flipped the slide in the scanner the wrong way.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 02:19am PT
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Thanks Werner, all better now. That might've really messed with Largo's head.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2007 - 10:53am PT
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Hey it worked perfect for my dislexic memory.
I just figured you were all twisted around something awful to get a look up at Hugh.
I recall seeing a topo by Collins, where he called going outside the slot an 11D layback? Off what edge? Looks quite rounded; talk about the all time lead screamer potential.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 25, 2007 - 11:34am PT
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Another shot from that early-70s era of tube chocks, blue jeans and PAs: the Bishop Offwidth (5.11a).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 25, 2007 - 12:26pm PT
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Roy, when I was following that pitch and got to the jug that allows you a brief repose before jumping into the granite anus, I fumbled and dropped the biner after unclipping from the fixed wire. I made the mistake of watching it fall, and fall, and fall, and vertigo set in. The biner never hit rock and made a little dust cloud. At that point, anything looked better than what was above, but I had to get back to it.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
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Great stuff, all! Chiloe, that Bishop offwidth crack is a good one. Also (OT), the vertical line coming out of the pod on the left side of the photo, is the best finger crack in CO, in my opinion, but quite hard, at 12-something.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
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Talked about Icarus on Sundance at the beginning of this thread. There is as yet an unclimbed offwidth through the same roof-band that Icarus and Turncorner go through, this one to the left of TurnKorner. I actually set out to climb it with Charlie Fowler in 1979. We climbed four pitches up to a stance underneath the roof, before traversing left into the line of Mr. President. Charlie had taken a fall on the pitch leading up to the stance under the roof, and the passed the lead to me. I managed to avoid pulling off any of the loose holds (there weren't many, actually), and got us to the stance. Thirty feet above looms a rounded 6" crack through a fifteen-foot roof. Charlie was turned off, so into Mr President he took us. I've always thought the roof and cracks above would finish our line - which is called Laura Scudders - off properly (see green line on photo). The offwidth looks considerably harder than Icarus, though.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 25, 2007 - 07:54pm PT
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Jeff,
When things melt out I'll enjoy some rock ogling up at Sundance and look for that thing. That 5.9 squeeze chimney 1st pitch of Mr Pres is pretty cool (even if it does have a "cheater" crack in the back, hehe).
Nice description of the falling 'biner Steve, right now I can see it going...Poof!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 25, 2007 - 08:31pm PT
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Man,I think I'll get younger, start over and do all the stuff Jello didn't quite get to; Lumpy, Eldo, the bugs, what am I missing?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
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Jaybro; ".... what am I missing?"
A young body.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 26, 2007 - 10:52pm PT
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Steve,
You need to start a whole thread of nothing but "And only Dick Cilley would call you a pussy for_." In the meantime, care to share some lore from your clean ascent of the Muir?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 27, 2007 - 03:11pm PT
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Plenty of room
Ed-note, wihte pants/red shirt
Werner-Too true!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:28am PT
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MartyR,there was a Dick Cilley appreciation thread not long ago with the original tape pussy accusation. Check it out. The Muir eh???
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 28, 2007 - 02:33am PT
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excellent picture!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Feb 28, 2007 - 08:24am PT
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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I had a complete first generation set of tube chocks and, as a testimony to my sanity, am proud to say I never used 'em.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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That is a great picture, Jay
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Thanks
Quality due, no doubt, to the high tech equipment; a kodak disposable with shoelace taped on for lanyard.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Ecalante Canyon. It was a little overhung.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Like all of these pics. So Ray, as a contrast to the full set of tubes, I had exactly one tube chock for pretty much my whole climbing career. Placed it on just about every wide crack climb I ever did.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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So Cuck, is that the same dealio in both photos? i've drooled on the B & W one before, but the color one with the wider perspective gives it a, wider perspective. Is it presumptious to request location/approach beta?
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lemon_boy
climber
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escalante canyon is the vedauwoo of the desert. it is absolutely obscene how many awesome offwidths are in this canyon. i wonder how many long sleeve t-shirts i've blown out in this canyon. man, i would love to be sponsored by some long sleeve t-shirt company....
jesse(?) is it true that matt put up 4-wheel low late 90's/early 2000? for some reason i had always called it aunt jemima's hand stacks, and thought it was put up by cameron teague. wouldn't be the first time i was on crack though...
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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First photo is me, the second is my friend on it. I had no clue who did it and posted the route on Mountain Project. Stewart Green posted and corrected the first ascent. Escalente has so many climbs and I have only ever seen NOLS kids out there near the Cave. Would be nice to one day have a guidebook for it. Only Desert Rock has a few routes. In Desert Route it is said that to descend from S-crack you must down climb it. HAH.
LEmon Boy, YOu from around these parts? YOu ever go to a section of escalante ( I am sorry for being vague) where you hike up on your right and there is a 11+ finger crack on the left or you can go straight up the supposed 12- offwidth with 45 degree 10 foot long roof. Both climbs lead to the same anchors via a bit of chimney?
Jesse.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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People still climb in that urban wasteland known as vedauwoo?
Okay, those stanleys and loyds rock! no way I'd wear a hellmute there, though, and tape only on an ... evulsion ...
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ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
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I think people get confused between "offwith" and "squeeze". If u can get any part of your body in the crack, it's a squeeze. Otherwise, it's a offwith. If you are chicken winging, it's definetly a squeeze. At least that's what Pat Ament told me when i was younger.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Definitions are guidelines. By that definition a finger crack is a squeeze.
Disagree about the chicken wing thing too. There are places you can chickwing where you can't get your trunk in. It's not a squeeze till all parts are enveloped.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
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Great shots, Tom! Illustrates Jaybro's points from the post above (with which I agree, by the way).
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Nice sequence TK, really shows the varying stages of physical agony needed to surmount the climb.
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Turning around is always so much fun!
Oh damn, I got what I wanted...
3rd guess?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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That is so cool!! can't beat the full (1/2?) pirouette!
I'm gonna have to raise me some dental floss!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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That's a purty fancy word you got there Jay...
He did start left side in, so I guess it was, in fact, a full...
Montana is waiting for you Jay ;)
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lemon_boy
climber
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yo cuckwalla,
can you be a bit more specific? i have climbed quite a bit throughout the canyon.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Lemon_boy The route is probably 2-2.5 miles past the cabin on the west/right hand wall. Past the PROW area and you park at the bottom of a drainage and hike up the drainage. There are no other climbs up there except for this one. A guy that has been doing some developing out there, Kent Pease, showed it to me. He also did the FA. Next time Im out there Ill take a picture of it.
Cheers,
Jesse
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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my left shoulder is feeling better and started flexing while I was looking at these pictures... the call of the wide?
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lemon_boy
climber
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cuckawalla,
yeah, i've climbed with the sender quite a bit out there. i think you are talking about a route called 'amplitude'. i have a picture of it, i will email it to you at your address listed on this website. it starts off through a short bit of slight looseness, then quickly transitions into a perfect #4 camalot splitter, then out a big splitter roof that is 4.5 to 5 camalot (but it is wierd and wavy inside, more like a granite crack, which makes it harder to shuffle through), then it goes up into a squeeze. sorry about the long sentence.
just to the left is a splitter finger to thin hands crack that goes big hands to fists through the left side of the roof and ends up at the same anchors.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Thats the Route. Sender is always down there in the summer, most times by himself.
Drop me a line if you are ever going down there.
Jesse.
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deerpit
climber
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Cool pics everybody. Thanks! I just got registered onto the site yesterday, so maybe I'll try and figure out how to post some photos of my own. I might have a couple of pics of some fatties (cracks that is) laying around. Hey Lemon Boy - I'm guessing your someone I've roped up for the wide ones a good bit?
dean
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lemon_boy
climber
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here's a shot of satan's personal trainer getting ready to do the triple alternating levitation gig to get through the roof of 'amplitude'. he's warming up on the 4 camalot splitter leading into it. on one of his attempts he took an enormous upside down fall and smashed into the wall below the roof.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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You got a nice shot there, lemon_boy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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"smashed", love it. is the one to the left good too?
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Mar 10, 2007 - 11:17pm PT
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TKingsbury, 10 feet up with 30 to go on the "Tormentor" (.10d).
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 10, 2007 - 11:22pm PT
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I used to like wide crack climbing but was always scared to lead it.
I thought Bad Ass Momma in the valley was a cool TR.
One day I looked at Jaws but the thought of sticking my body in it was out of the question - I didn't feel the need to punish myself like that; I had seem radical shoulder gobies inflicted by it...
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Leroy
climber
|
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Mar 26, 2007 - 05:22am PT
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No OWS for me this month.The doc says I cant rip cracks apart for a month after the hernia Operation.
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ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Mar 26, 2007 - 12:20pm PT
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Tkingsbury does prove me wrong!!!! Who's going to Vedawoo soon?
Lemmon, Where's it that climb! It looks familar.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mar 26, 2007 - 03:07pm PT
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Leroy, didn't you just have a birthday that we should celebrate with a photo thread like Bachar's?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 26, 2007 - 03:52pm PT
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The tourist route on Three Penguins. Photo credit to Larry Harpe.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Since this thread had a certain special footware flavor, here's a little tidbit from Ament's Wizards of Rock. The photo shows a Kronhoffer and a Cortina on the third ascent of Crack of Fear. The question is for all you fat crack climbers; have you ever resorted to mismatched footware to gain an edge on a wide crack problem the way Ament did here?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
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Oct 29, 2007 - 04:34pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 29, 2007 - 04:43pm PT
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Gas to the crags: $18.70
4 rolls of tape: $6.95
Shredded shoes: $125.00
Pimpstyley croche headband: PRICELESS.
That thing is nice Tom.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 29, 2007 - 05:02pm PT
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LOL
Thanks Will. I could probably get Liz to do one for you...
Have you posted that video of Jaybro on 'spinning in the wind'?
or any videos from the woo?
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Jan 29, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
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dug up from the depths.....
bump for the wideness!!!!!!11111111
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Jan 29, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
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red rocks
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jstan
climber
|
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Jan 29, 2009 - 07:17pm PT
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Steve Grossman's post above mentions George Livingstone. Since getting involved in this quite odd pursuit I have found it curious how certain very outstanding people get all the attention and equally outstanding people don't. If you wanted to do really great climbs and have the company of just the best person you ever met, you could not do better than George.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 02:00am PT
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Was he mostly a Seneca Rock climber or points farther east as well?
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Widecrack Bump
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 30, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
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Cheers to Kingsbury for rescuing this great thread from obscurity. Answer to somebody, yes LOTS of tacoans probably climbed in Kronies. And BS to someone else: they were quite good for steep edging too and had the huge advantage in the Gunks that you could sneak the toe into the tight horizontals and get more of a hold than the pain machine wearers did. We did tons of 10s in them at a time when that was not too shabby, even Henry wasn't on-sighting FAs at more than 11. Great thread, except for one thing: WHERE'S THE BLOOD??!??!??!
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goatboy smellz
climber
dirty south
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Jan 30, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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One order of blood, coming right up!
eeyonkee's hands after a couple of pitches at Vedauwoo.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 30, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
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hey there steve... say, great question:
"The question is for all you fat crack climbers; have you ever resorted to mismatched footware to gain an edge on a wide crack problem the way Ament did here?"
hey all, say, reall GREAT thread/post, here...
great pics, too.... i love cracked rock, course, when it sticks together, though...
*otherwise, there ain't much rock left to see... or climb... :)
ps--and for me, not being a climber, well:
the cracks add a new beauty, and interest and make you wonder how, why, and when, it all came to pass....
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 30, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
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Is that the tape job that scooted out of Bat Guano (BG) crack?
Yikes!
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goatboy smellz
climber
dirty south
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Jan 30, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Yes I believe scooted is the correct verb if you want to call it that, better ask grug if you want a fist hand account.
Vedavoot Scoot '09 here we come!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 30, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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Seconds on that blood?
Reminder: Some OWs need boots.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 30, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
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oh, lord scarp, when will they learn?????
Earthborn spirit, 2009 wide scoot style bump!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
|
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Why, oh why are high top climbing shoes extinct?
They were great!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Two solutions Cap, JB's or have Scuffy score you some kauk's
Also there is talk of something new headed this way from Italy in the by and by
Nice work, BTW
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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In one week, way before the turn of the century, I climbed the Thimble in the South Dakota needles, and did the first ascent of Lucille, in the same pair of Fire Ballets.
I generally prefer the 'feel' in slip-lasted shoes, but there really is a place for board-lasted shoes!
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Enough talk about shoes already. Yeah, high tops were great, still nursing some Generators, blah, blah. But what we're on this thread for is MORE BLOOD!!
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
|
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Note that in the same year Ament didnīt free Crack of Fear 5.10+ but did free Supremacy crack.5.11-.Since when did supremacy drift up to 5.11c?Why does Ament even list his ascent of crack of Fear if it wasnīt an improvement in style?
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DJS
Trad climber
|
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The new TC Pro from Sportiva.
I still prefer the Acopa JB though.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
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Sweet looking kicks...not sure if I'm ready to throw down $170 for them though...
Pat plugs the JBs
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Gotta wonder about the rubber on the heels of those new things.
Also, is it really high enough on the ankle?
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ZeHardcore
Trad climber
San Diego, California
|
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Bishop Pratts Crack
Talk about a nice rack...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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wide bump
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
|
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:08am PT
|
nice ed!!!
bumping some good ones!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
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Mar 13, 2009 - 02:34am PT
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flump
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
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wide Jello bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
|
Jiggling Wyde, tape yer thumbs.....
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 13, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
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BUMP A'READY!
More WIDE!
"This is useless without pics and we're gonna die."
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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The business:
The requisite butt shot:
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
|
Lost in the fray...
There he is:
One of many adventures to be revisited:
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
|
A short grunt-fest:
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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A different grunt fest, into the second day of it:
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Jus' playing in Gary's back yard
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 13, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
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Russ, is that first one Centurion? Or Hobbit Roof?
In a few weeks Jtree will be my weekend crag, need to start a new to-do list and get familiar with the local topography.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 13, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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Naw.... this is Centurion. This is an Ed or Jay pic, moments before I cheated death again! Check the angle on the cam in the crack. Survey says "decker".
The one you are asking about is Grit Roof, before the big flake at the lip fell off.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 13, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
|
Hmmm...that kinda looks like a pain in the @ss. I might have to work my way up to that.
And some unspecified thing at Woodfords:
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
|
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Dec 13, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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bump FTW (for the wide!)
Wes
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 13, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
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Offwidth? Sure, why not!
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 13, 2012 - 11:38pm PT
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more wide cracks from IC
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 17, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Scuffy ties it all together in the cyber world.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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good stuff guys, heres a few of alexey warming up at the cookie
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| Messages 1 - 174 of total 174 in this topic |
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