Discussion Topic |
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CF
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 18, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
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The tears was climbed yesterday and you can find photos at:
Tuolumne Meadows Forum
I am in the process of editing and uploading at 9:35am so it may be a little bit before i get more posted.
cf
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theLoop
climber
Northwest Montana
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Jan 18, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
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Great! The link is not working properly. I really want to see these photos.
Edit: Works now. Thanks. Will be looking for more pics!
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Jan 18, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
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What difficulty rating would you give the climb? How many pitches?
TIA
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travelin_light
Trad climber
california
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Jan 18, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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HOLY MOLY! Anyone have an idea of the difficulties, climbing time etc.? Looks like some business at the bottom. WOW!
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jan 18, 2007 - 01:37pm PT
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Beautiful. Very nice job.
pc
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 18, 2007 - 02:40pm PT
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any more details on the ascent?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jan 18, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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Good. Real history for a change (instead of the nonsense in the NY Times and Washington Post).
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jan 18, 2007 - 05:59pm PT
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Superb. Seems like it's been cold enuf...
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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Jan 18, 2007 - 07:33pm PT
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Awesome job guys! Way cool shots Chris. The bottom part looks sporty. The photos, with the tiny action figures, give great perspective of the scale of that unique and most proud route.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Ventura
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Jan 18, 2007 - 09:50pm PT
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I'm impressed! I have dreams of climbing that ice one day.
I wonder what time of the day you started climbing and if you had to rap down to it? I'll find out one of these damn days.
good job with the H2O climbing
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Jan 18, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
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Congrats Doug, Scott and Dave !
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jan 18, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
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COWABUNGA !!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 18, 2007 - 11:21pm PT
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Wow! That looks thin and scary. Excellent ascent!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jan 18, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
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WOW !!! You guys are Rad. What a proud tick in truley bad ass conditions.
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 18, 2007 - 11:37pm PT
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Awesome ascent! You must be so very proud! Way to go guys.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Boise, ID
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Jan 18, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
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yow. great pics of a well-done route.
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junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 12:18am PT
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Great job guys looks killer.
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:12am PT
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excellent job
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marky
climber
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:19am PT
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outstanding. TR to follow?
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:20am PT
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VERY nice!!!
Awesome job guys and congrats. When was the last time it had an ascent? Dean Potter and Miles? I remember them telling me about it the day after..... with some pretty wide-eyed expressions.
DETails! OOOoaaahhh!!
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:37am PT
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CF-
Attempted WT last July. . . ended up closng the Mountain Room and getin fined for snoring in the Meadows. Glad you pulled it off.
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cybele
Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
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Jan 19, 2007 - 02:15am PT
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July?
Great job guys!
Anyone know how the party today fared?
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Scotty Brown
climber
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Jan 19, 2007 - 03:10am PT
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Hey y'all,
The ascent was ideal. 13 hours on route, 11 pitches, WI 5, 2000 ft. A fine line indeed.
View of pitches 3 and 4
Doug leading rock on pitch 3
Doug and Dave following pitch 4, Thin! WI 5
Dave Bengston following pitch 4
Doug Leading the "Ouray ice park pitch", Pitch 5, WI 4
Following pitch 6, WI 2
Doug on pitch 7, WI 4
Yup, we did the last three pitches in the dark.
The ice is in great shape. Dry and thin on the lower pitches and wet and fat above. It should stay in shape with the cold nights but the main thing to watch is the day time highs. Valley visitor center temps
Doug and Dave were awesome and we all had a great time! Thanks for viewing.
All photos by Scott Brown
California Alpine Guides
Info and conditions on the route: Scott@Californiaalpineguides.com
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Jan 19, 2007 - 10:41am PT
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Is Bad Ass overused yet because if not. . . .
That's some fine climbing.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 19, 2007 - 10:49am PT
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Wow - really cool pics!
Nice. Great thread and great send.
Tom
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jan 19, 2007 - 11:28am PT
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way to go gents! wish we had ice and snow here this winter...
you wanna send some our way!
ks
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McC
Trad climber
Livermore Ca
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Jan 19, 2007 - 11:34am PT
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WOW! Congrats to Dave Bengsten, Doug Nidever and Scott Brown!! Looks like some exciting climbing.
Great to see the telephoto pics by Chris Falkenstein and those taken on the route. Thanks for trip report and all of the pictures!
Ammon asked who's climbed it most recently. Anyone know when Dean Potter and Miles climbed it? ... after 2/5/02? Here's a partial list of names of some who've done it and some dates.
1975 FA team: Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral (a fun TR from a Supertopo thread last month: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=294566&msg=294897
Jay Smith and Craig Reason
1/31/02 Peter Mayfield and Mike Shane (same thread - another fun TR: www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=294566&msg=294897 )
2/1/02 Richard Leversee, Dan McDevitt, and a 3rd (I'm blanking on the name)
2/2/02 Wade Suvan and Melanie Lerner - rapped off a couple of pitches before the top
2/5/02 Erik Sandelin and Bill McConachie (Leversee thought this might've been the 10th ascent; trip report on Erik's website http://medlem.spray.se/eriksandelin/ )
Who else has climbed it and when?
Way to go Dave, Doug, and Scott!
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Jan 19, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
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WOW.
Those photos have goten me so pumped I'm going ice climbing tomorrow.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Jan 19, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
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Good job guys! The photos are great. Brings back some memories. Dale Bard and Ron Kauk did the second in Feb. of 78. Ed Barry and I did the third ascent immediately after. It was quite different than when Kev and I did the first. Our original ascent was done in quite warm conditions as the route was disintegrating. A truly inspired effort if I may say so. Conditions were much different in 78. There was a very heavy snowfall. The Valley floor had several feet of snow. The heavy snowfall built up on the routes ledge systems and supplied water to the lower pitches. This made for nice thick ice even down low. The ice was so good. Real thick and solid. I can't imagine it ever being in better condition than it was that year. I just had to go do it again!
The approach was murder though. I remember wallowing through snow that was at times chest deep when you punched through holes in the snow covered talus. Again great job guys on what has to be one of the most beautiful ice routes anywhere.
Chappy
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
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Man alive, it looks like the route is hardly there. Three guys on 11 pitches is remarkable, this coming from someone who hates the cold.
Superior effort in my book.
JL
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
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Good job, lads! Looks like great climbing in thin conditions.
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Dragger
Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
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Yea Scotty & crew! You guys are awesome!
Carolyn
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 04:13pm PT
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GNARLY!!! Very Cool guys!!
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Jan 19, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
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Wow, one of the coolest lines and now it's yours. Congratulations!
I hope everyone on it today and this weekend a safe trip.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
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Good show, guys! Nice!
"Attempted WT last July. . ."
As a rock climb? Ice was LONG gone before then....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jan 19, 2007 - 05:42pm PT
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mythical and heroic
cheers guys!
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Jan 19, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
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Proud!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
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Way to go Doug, Dave, and Steve! on some proud bold climbing. Great pics, looks very thin...
Miles and Dean Potter did it around 95 or 96 I think on what looked like mostly wet snow, Mike Shane and I were probably the next ascent then Richard Leversee, Dan Mcdivitt, and John Wasson the next day, I think it got one or two more ascents the following week. Don't think it froze up the last few years.
Peter
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 20, 2007 - 01:41am PT
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Ditto & Bravo!
You guys are doin' our age group proud.
Thanks for sharing the super cool experience.
-Roy
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Trad climber
Sittin' on the dock by the bay...
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Jan 20, 2007 - 01:58am PT
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Damn, I'm sitting here at my computer.
Have ice tools. Will travel...
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jan 20, 2007 - 02:13am PT
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Man, Sometimes I forget that the guides can really rock climb. Bengston and Nidiver can bust. Congrats to the three hardmen.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 20, 2007 - 11:10am PT
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In the beginning...
As is the historical pattern the WT was not in "safe condition" by Friday. The very compact, smooth granite walls do not support the ice with 1 (and only 1)warm day. We climbed on Wed, temps had been cold and Wed temps were L16 and H36. Thursday temps in the Valley and Badger Pass were L23 and H55. Stand back and watch er crumble.
Amen
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 20, 2007 - 11:25am PT
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That's one hellava boulder problem. Proud!
An if this ain't an honest climbing thread, then there will nver be one. Photogs and all, sweet.
What time did y'all start and how long were you on the route? How was the descent? Not that *I'll* be using the info to suss the route, but it'd be cool to know sitting in my warm chair.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 20, 2007 - 11:39am PT
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In the beginning...
K-Man
We put a car at Badger Pass Ski Area, then drove to the Tunnel View overlook. Began approach at 0545. It took 1.5 hrs, although could be cleaned up. It would be possible to V-thread the route (10-11 raps), but it is nice just to walk away, which we opted for. 3 hrs to Badger Pass.
blessings on ya'll
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 20, 2007 - 11:57am PT
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Sweet. I guess you could stash some skis to make the walk off easier, 3 hours of post holing, ugh. I thought you'd take the trail back to the overlook, but BP sounds like the better way to go.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 21, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
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In the beginning...
I'm just getting into the Forum, very nice to see so many familiar faces here. The climbing is good of course, but I have great memories of hang'in with so many of the folks here. Tarbuster, do you remember when we guided the Italians up the Nose, those boys couldn't speak a word of English. (thankfully a bit of French) I remember yelling up a pitch or 2 asking you how to say this or that in French, so I could tell the guy to put me back on belay. Walleye, nice hang'in with you the other day. Thanks for bringing me up to speed on the Forum. Werner, nice to see you again (as always)
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jan 21, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
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Sic photos! Sic route....
gotta love the "internet's" for getting great stories and photos out to get you fired up!
ks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 21, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
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Welcome to the forum Flanders!
The Widows Tears post: just one more reason to hang around here online. Dig around and you'll find lotsa fun stuff buried in the "newspaper stack". A virtual reunion in many ways. Yes, I remember those multi-lingual belay signals on the Nose.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 21, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
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WT looks like something Pete Schoerner would have been all over. Nice send guys.
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 21, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
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In the beginning...
Not many know of Pete Schoerner. He was a really good guy, good dad, his children are the same age as my boys (Tobin now 21, Layton now 19) How did you know Pete?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 22, 2007 - 12:20am PT
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Well, I only ice climbed with Pete a few times back in the late 80's. I did kayak with him a bit. And skied with him a bunch. He was a tele god. In my opinion he was one of the great unknowns.
I knew Pete as a result of my brother Chris who was a firefighter/medic in June Lake. Chris is now the Fire Chief in Soldotna Alaska. I wish my brother still lived in June Lake, it's nice to have a free place to crash.
Kevin Mokracek
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Finessa
Social climber
Yosemite
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Jan 22, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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So, who lead what pitches? Did you all swing pitches or lead in blocks. Who lead the crux? What was the crux? Who's Idea was it to make this knarly accent?
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 23, 2007 - 12:24am PT
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In the beginning...
Hi Finessa,
the tech crux was the thin 3rd, ice started at 1/2", but quickly got up to 1.5-2.5" with occasional ledges with screwable ice (10cm). Scotty lead that pitch, oh so smooth and together on the thin stuff! The pump crux was the 4th pitch pillar, that was my pitch. RE: who's idea; it was somewhat funny how it came together. When it got cold here in June Lake (-21F) we were thinking ice!!!I wanted to guide WT, had a client lined up (very capable)and asked Dave if YMS would allow it. To his credit he did think about it before pointing out the risk/rewards were outside the company's interest. I tried pointing out that it was somewhat highend when I guided Astroman awhile back and this was similar. He pointed out that Astroman doesn't fall off.(he does have a good point here)So I asked him again the following day if I should come over with a client or a friend, he said friend. I asked him if he would be my friend. (yippee) Scotty and I had been in Canada recently climbing ice, he was on it when WT topic came up. (yippeeX2)
doug
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
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Jan 23, 2007 - 12:31pm PT
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Beeyoootiful! Nice ascent and thanks for the pics.
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dbcc in slo
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jan 23, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
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Amazing commitment and dedication!!
WOW! I hope you all had a burger and a beer when you were done!
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keep looking up
Trad climber
ocean west
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Jan 23, 2007 - 02:01pm PT
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you guys are my soul & my heart's inspiration!
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Keeper of Australia Mt
Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
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Jan 23, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
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Awesome, ice climbing in Yosemite. Climatic cooling - bring it on! The next ice age will be rad and the Valley will be magical - pick-ure perfect. Keep it happening down there.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jan 23, 2007 - 08:53pm PT
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Damn!! I am so envious. That is the one ice climb I want to do before I die......I was in the Valley with Henry and others while Mark and Kevin scored the first ascentand have wanted to do it ever since. I'd fly there from here if I knew it was in shape. Good Job guys!!
Jack R
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 29, 2007 - 06:01pm PT
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bump
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telemama
Trad climber
midpines
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Awesome, guys! sure looks like fun!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Great stuff Scott. I have some photos from when Kev and I first did it that I will post soon. I also have some from when Ed Barry and I did the 3rd ascent. Much more alpine looking on those ascents than on yours. Again good job.
Chappy
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Treefrog
Trad climber
Blountstown, FL
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Apr 12, 2007 - 12:02pm PT
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Hey Flanders! and Batrock,
I also knew Pete Schoerner, and he was indeed a great guy. I used to work with him part-time when I was a volunteer firefighter/EMT in Mammoth. I probably also knew Chris, as the name sounds very familiar, but can't remember a face to go with the name....getting old.
My personal rock-climbing god was another paramedic named Grey Alexander. Either of you know him, or what he's up to these days? Alas, I'm a Floridian now and have lost contact with west coast friends, and also can't climb here; it's too stinkin' flat!
Thanks,
Doug Harrell
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jan 14, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Hey Werner,
Any Ice Showing in the Valley this season?
Doug
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Double D
climber
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Jan 14, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
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Wow, the bottom section looks really thin.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 14, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
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There were a bunch of Kevin and Chappy's climbs that I wished I'd been in on BITD - but the Widow's Tears was not one of them. Scares the crap out of me just looking at the pics.
Awesome send, for all that have done it.
JL
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jan 14, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
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atchafalaga, beautiful pics....Thanks! Lynne
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 15, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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THanks for bumping this one. Missed it the first time.
Awesome
Peace
Karl
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 17, 2010 - 12:19am PT
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Awesome
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Nov 20, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
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Uberclassic awesomeness bump... sitting at home-listening to Bill Evans on the record player-sharpening my Quarks while drinking Talisker-bump
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Dec 26, 2010 - 09:16am PT
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my thoughts exactly Kevin......... Werner?
Doug
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 26, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
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Chappy,
Let's check out your FA and other photos of the Tears.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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What a treat! Great photos too...
Cheers, Brian
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 30, 2011 - 05:12am PT
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I'm shaking my head...that's awesome.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Feb 15, 2011 - 09:33am PT
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SICK!!!!11111
that's what I neeed to stoke my day!!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Thought for sure we'd see some some action on the Tears this X-mas season. It got Cold, and there seemed to be plenty of water, hence ICE. Maybe more cold temps will follow .. .. .. ?
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WBraun
climber
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k-man
There was action.
2 Yosemite locals did a successful ascent a few days ago .....
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Very cool! I just saw that Greg got his tools to the top. Very nice!
Congrats to the team...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
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Great job.....looks way sketchy!
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delta bravo
Big Wall climber
a bad place
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Jan 10, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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I missed this one first time around ..glad it
came up again ... you fellers have my respect !
11 pitches up , ice screw anchors , 1/2 " smears
wow...
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