Discussion Topic |
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Jul 11, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
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The next King Swing!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 11, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
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It will be a real game changer if somebody makes it 5.12+ slab, instead of an aid ladder or something.
One of the great "moderate" routes in the world could be no more.
I'm glad I did it when we were only climbing up to hard 10/ easy 11!!
We tried to free as much of the Zig Zags as we could, but didn't try and hang out and work moves and stuff. We just did as best we could onsight and slipped comfortably into aid bits.
But a desperate, mandatory free section would change all that.
What is the best thing for the community as a whole?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 11, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
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CoZmic's Anasazi Variation!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
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It's not like it can't be fixed if someone truly f*#ks it up. I don't think anyone wants to be known forever as the person who screwed it up. Uhm.. James isn't in the valley right now is he?
Meh whatever gets done is gunna be argued about ad nauseum though...should be fun.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
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Cedar Wright will climb it first .....
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 11, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
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What would Robins do? Got to go to the man for permission.
Funny question.... why is chipping holds somehow more offensive than a bolt ladder? Just asking.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jul 12, 2015 - 01:46am PT
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paging Caldwell and Jorgeson - please report to the base of Half Dome,
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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It's a big wall route that has some aid climbing for the VAST majority of climbers. Keep it in the same vein.
Those earlier posts about slab climbing....the ONLY climbers who talk about slab climbing are from Cali and North Carolina.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 12, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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As far as the Direct goes
Whoa, wait a minute! I've missed something...AGAIN!!
The Direct is falling off too?
Correction: IS no more. I was talking about the 5.9 C-1 format, c'mon bro!
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Jul 12, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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Cragman, I belive that Jerry Gallwas was 19 years old and single when he did the First Ascent of the NorthWest Face of HalfDome with Royal Robbins and Mike Sherrick. . .df
Edit, in fact I think that he was living at home and discovering the Dirtbag life of Climbing. .
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Jul 12, 2015 - 10:11am PT
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With all the technology today, is there any way to glue the ledge system back on?
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jul 12, 2015 - 11:11am PT
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Sure, there's some modern structural epoxies that might hold up to 50 years until UV degradation sets in...
Before that, though. You go to the base and start dry-fitting the shards back together. Should only be a few million of them.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jul 12, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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With all due respect to Royal Robbins and Gerry Galwas, the pitches they established and climbed do not exist anymore. As such, it is not for them to decide how a new section of rock should be climbed.
But, I have faith that a suitable replacement of the lost pitches, in keeping with the character and popularity of the route, will eventually be established.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 12, 2015 - 11:57am PT
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A "reasonable" variation should definitely be one of the considerations in my mind.
I mean, a few thousands of 5.9 guys have done it, including Royal Robbins, let's go.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 12, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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This is an iconic route and some thought needs to go into reestablishing it so as to maintain the original character and grade if possible at about 5.9 C3. Royal, Jerry and Mike did their best and we need to do ours now with clear focus on the lasting quality of result. At least until Big Sandy becomes Little Sandy LOL
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 12, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
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Bonatti Pillar.
Shlt happens.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 12, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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If I can reach my goal of $5000 on Jumpstart Funding,
I will do it and you can watch me drill with live streaming on the web!
At the $250 level, I will stamp your initials in one of the bolt hangers!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 12, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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Locker, let's us go put a nut in it, and call it 5.7, many would be stoked;D
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 12, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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maaaannnnn that sound SO WRONG!^^^^^^;^)
haha! We could call it; "The Irregular Route".
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Jul 12, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
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Done, and done. Like a thief in the night!
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Jul 12, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
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just bolt on a big traversing peg board and be done with it
no stupid A0 bolt ladder and no lame ass slab stinkbug action
add two (2) 1" dowels to the rack per wall jockey, rigged so you can clip them off
you ppl are overthinking this
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Jul 12, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
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I am more concerned about the soloing of it.
Is Honndo's the first and last FS?
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jul 12, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
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1. Who gets to establish the new pitches on the Regular Route?
Who ever gets around to it first.
Curt
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
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Jul 14, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
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Whatever happened to Royal Robbins?
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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Jul 14, 2015 - 07:35pm PT
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Nanook (Erik) - thanks for your reply... I'm glad to hear that it may be kept at a moderate grade, so gumbies like me can still climb it. Its been my dream for the past few years to do Half Dome and I really wanted to do it this fall or next spring, but if its runout 5.12 slab I'm screwed...
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son of stan
Boulder climber
San Jose CA
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Jul 14, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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Can't decide which helmet will protect me from that big 'hang fire' driveway
sized slab, if it releases at the wrong time.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 14, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
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Bullwinkle, Gallwas' Gallop was put up in 1953 by Jerry, Wilts and Robbins, so he would have been awfully young then. Of course, Guido was rather young on the FA of Coonyard, too, so it's possible but, in my opinion, unlikely, that he was still a teenager in 1957.
As for who puts up other options to get to the upper part of the route, Curt has it right.
John
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Shittawk WA
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Jul 14, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
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The variation should go left onto easier ground, and come back to join the pitches above the rockfall, like nothing ever happend.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jul 15, 2015 - 08:55am PT
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Clint,
If you drill a bolt ladder, and maybe you should, we can all rest assured it will be hand drilled in good style. The route will be repaired and then the free climbers can then free your bolt ladder. I vote for Clint.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 15, 2015 - 09:08am PT
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Maybe its time for Ray Jardine to come out of retirement to do a chipped traverse line.
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Jul 15, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
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I'm running late returning to work after lunch, but thought I'd share what I wrote in response to something on climbing.com regarding the slab fall. For the record, I'm not speaking for dad here.... just sharing my opinion ;)
"Possibilities in climbing have been totally expanded and rewritten by today's generation in the sport. Several decades ago it was incomprehensible that free solos of the sort we're seeing could happen. It seems to me that leaving challenges like this open and available for future threshold-pushers would be an appropriately humble approach (no pun intended....). IMO, that route (or, pitch) is GONE. To try and bolt to recreate it really goes against the precepts it was formed on.... the idea of clean climbing...."
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 15, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
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Before drilling a bolt ladder, someone needs to go up there and see if the slab traverse goes at a modest standard, say 5.10b/c. Until someone goes up there and checks out the free climbing possibilities, it's all speculative.
"Not an image of the thing, but the thing itself"
 Ezra Pound (after T.E. Hulme)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
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Dyno
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
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Dyno. ha. good one.
I don't think I have the best resolution photos, but if the traverse doesn't work well, people might even look at going way down and right, up cracks and then back left to the chimneys, once the dust settles.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
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see if the slab traverse goes at a modest standard, say 5.10b/c.
ELITIST!!! If it's not 5.5 we should put bolts in every 5'. (sarchasm off)
Moderate or not, I think some high end free climbers should be up there if it gets rebolted. If there's going to be a bolt ladder it might as well follow the natural route for a change.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:24pm PT
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If there's going to be a bolt ladder it might as well follow the natural route for a change.
The original route seemed rather natural - if circuitous - to me.
Tamara poses the most interesting question to my mind. In 1957, this climb broke new ground. While we think of it as a trade route now, it was quite elitist when first climbed. What, if anything, is worth preserving -- the "trade route difficulty," the cutting edge climbing, or something else?
John
Edit: I think El Cap expresses my own feelings pretty well.
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pelut espania
Big Wall climber
Espania
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
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Hola mi Americano Dogs!
The wall es back in the action by muy bold Espania hombres! No Americano could do so bueno route fix and rename of old classico route to nuevo standards! Bueno suerte mi Americano dogs as not hombre in USA has huevos of size rechoired for escalde ascent
Salut! Viva Espania!
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
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Pelut, I can't understand a thing you are saying because of your accent. It's gotten worse.
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c wilmot
climber
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Jul 15, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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do you have to clip bolts to free climb? Can you not just skip them if you want the challenge?
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jul 15, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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The original route seemed rather natural - if circuitous - to me.
Agreed, wasn't referring to this route in particular, was actually thinking of the one in the pic below.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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I agree with Will that it would be dumb to ignore close free climbing possibilities while bolting it.
I free climb 5.10 these days, but 5.13 doesn't look impossible to me, so I'm not sure about that line of reasoning.
Sure, ideally it would be great if someone like Mikey Schaefer would be in town and up to do it.
But I suspect most of the 5.13 granite FA folks are off climbing elsewhere in mid summer.
(P.S. I hope I'm not the clown! :-) )
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 15, 2015 - 03:28pm PT
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Thanks.
I'll admit - I didn't think City Park or the Great Roof would go free.
But being wrong gives a chance to learn! (Wouldn't want to get Half Dome wrong, of course).
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 15, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Pelutted is back. Viva Trollo!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
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Jul 15, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
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IMO, that route (or, pitch) is GONE. To try and bolt to recreate it really goes against the precepts it was formed on.... the idea of clean climbing...."
Well, I think its good that intermediate level climbers can climb up the face of half dome. A long moderate route with one or two really hard pitches in the middle would not be a good route. I liked the idea of going left into easier terrain if this is possible. (I have not actually done the route) Then if someone wants to free climb the "direct" face, feel free. But also keeping style in mind and making something that other people would want to repeat. On the other hand if there is really no work-around, and the only way up is to bolt something, then I would go for a grade more in keeping with the rest of it. Is your dad not interested in this at all? At one time he was especially interested in climbing ethics and this would be a good time to weigh in. - Paul
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Highlander
Big Wall climber
Ouray, CO
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Jul 15, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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Heard there was more rock fall up on the Dome today, it may change a little more before it's all said and done.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 15, 2015 - 04:33pm PT
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Or another team decides
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reason
Big Wall climber
Fort Collins Co
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Jul 16, 2015 - 09:46am PT
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Just hope whomever re-establishs this section takes into consideration the over all route and that the Regular Route is very popular moderate route, this should be reestablished in that spirit. If the climbing on the new section cannot be aided and ends up being in the 5.10's there should be bolts added so it is possible to aid the route. It would be tragic if moderate 10 climbers where shut down on this moderate classic. I am a moderate 5.10 climber and have done this route two times. It is a very special big wall.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jul 16, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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Regardless of where this thread on Supertaco goes, we all know that a bolt ladder is going to be drilled.
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tahoemnts2
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 16, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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How did Honold free this section? Just follow his lead...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jul 16, 2015 - 10:32am PT
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Agreed Lambone, and since we know it will likely be freed again as well, just advocating that they follow the likely free path.
If that means aid climbers have to go sideways instead of directly from point A to B, so be it.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Jul 16, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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The only place on Half Dome for moderate climbers is the cables? That seems a bit elitist and dickish...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jul 16, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
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They've got snake hike too
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 16, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
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Listen to all the goobers on here begging for an easy variation. You don't know what's up there, and what's offered. If someone goes up and puts up a new variation, and you don't feel comfortable climbing the variation that is established then either you don't climb the route or you go up with the intention of finding something that suits your skill level as an FA variant.
I hope whoever has the balls to step up to the killing fields up there puts in something free.
As Piton Ron said "Bonnati Pilar" haha.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 16, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
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IMO the new section should simply be consistent with the rest of the route. It would be dumb to have a 5.14 mandatory free slab pitch in the middle of a 5.9 C1 route.
But we can debate all we want, whoever goes up there and establishes the new pitches will do what they want and unless it's terribly out of character with the rest of the route and Half Dome standards it will remain.
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jul 16, 2015 - 03:57pm PT
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Translation of Pelut's post.
The wall es back in the action by muy bold Espania hombres! No Americano could do so bueno route fix and rename of old classico route to nuevo standards! Bueno suerte mi Americano dogs as not hombre in USA has huevos of size rechoired for escalde ascent
Salut! Viva Espania
Can't wait to see who does it! The topo is there:)
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Jul 16, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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That's the worst Spanglish ever.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 16, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
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This thread is nothing but people guessing, yapping endless saying nothing.
You will be surprised what will be happening with this.
It's gonna be rough for n00000bs .....
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Gene
climber
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Jul 16, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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Once the RNWFHD is reestablished to approximate the original, would someone please replace the Rotten Log?
Thanks.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jul 16, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
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Jul 16, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
This thread is nothing but people guessing, yapping endless saying nothing.
Case in point.
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Jul 16, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
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For those who were wondering what Royal's response is, I sent a copy of my post with a general explanation of context & he and Mom read it and responded with "Perfect!"
Led me to muse that I'd asked them at all - his words throughout the years, as well as his routes, pretty clearly "state" his stance about all things climbing (and ethics) related.
If it has indeed already been bolted, I'm sorry to hear it. Seems a precipitous response to an awesome change of the game by the universe/mother nature! Fortunately, even if so, it shouldn't affect the spirit of those who are stretching the limits, acting with integrity, and rising to challenges.... as nothing has the power to do that.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 16, 2015 - 10:01pm PT
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All this jabbering and it ain't done yet? Weak!
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donald perry
Trad climber
kearny, NJ
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Jul 17, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
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How much time does one need to spend in the gym to get up this thing now? It's only a short section, I think to for hard core climbers to have one pitch there makes little to no sense, unless it is a variation. The ideal situation for all concerned would be to try to put something back there similar to what was there before if at all possible. Perhaps a pendulum of some kind or hooking up some "easy" free climbing sections for all the people who want to "repeat" the route.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
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Jul 17, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
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Well, the first ascensionist has spoken and the traditional rules should be respected. I'm hoping there is a variation no harder than 5.10.
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TLP
climber
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Jul 17, 2015 - 09:04pm PT
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Good mix of thoughts expressed. But this one deserves more attention, for two reasons:
if the traverse doesn't work well, people might even look at going way down and right, up cracks and then back left to the chimneys, once the dust settles.
It sure does seem like there might be a possibility to lower a ways then pendulum way right, then climb maybe some more fun aid up to connect with the remaining chimneys. That would leave the blank dirt-stained patch available for some rad free - with the pendulum bolt for the first minimalist point of pro. So, two really different variations to satisfy different camps of thought on this thread.
One really cool thing about the original route is that it connects features. Any substitute for the missing pitch or so should be consistent with that approach, even if it means a pretty significant variation and some actual aid to do in a part of the route that you used to just zoom up (uh, unless you bivvied, like we did, on the missing ledge). It would make it a better route albeit at the cost that you wouldn't do the Robbins Traverse anymore.
The other issue is "once the dust settles". Which could be a while if the next couple chimneys fall off too.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Trad climber
Shittalkqua, WA
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Jul 17, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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fun aid ... is neither.
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Jul 20, 2015 - 07:10am PT
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If the new section is harder than 5.11a I'll have to settle for one of the other bazillion climbs I have yet to do. ( or train harder )
Every climb in the world need not be dumbed down to my level.
For me, climbing is about meeting the earth as it is and rising to the challenge without bringing it down to my ability of lack thereof.
Ernesto Ale'
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david_cdx
Trad climber
Mexico City
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Jul 22, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
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There has not been any try ?
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 22, 2015 - 07:36pm PT
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There has not been any try ?
There has.
Top secret .....
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 22, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
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I'll be the first to suggest that the 100 new bolts in the bolt ladder put in to link features to keep the route viable be named the "Robbins bolt ladder". In honor of....etc etc etc etc.
Warren has given a thumbs up they say.
Sits all i have. will sit and nosh popcorn as the discourse unfolds:
sorry, i really meant "will sit and nosh popcorn as "TEH" discourse unfolds....
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Bivi Brothers
Trad climber
Oceanside California
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Jul 27, 2015 - 09:50am PT
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Just spent 5 days on the Route, 3 days of which were figuring out the proudest and safest way to link the missing pitch. Two variation now exist to bypass the fallen pitch!!!
Will post trip report with topo beta soon!!!
And yes it was a dream come true! Thanks to all my loved ones who believed in us that we could make it happen!
[photo[photo[photoid=420437]id=420437]id=420437]
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 27, 2015 - 09:55am PT
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Serious Bivi Brothers? SWEET!!
More info!
Trip report!
N00bs, Geezers and Hardmen alike want to know!!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jul 27, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Bump,
Come on Josh, lets hear it. Cant wait!!
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 27, 2015 - 11:13am PT
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First post ever to a highly charged question?
Bivi Trolls?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 27, 2015 - 11:54am PT
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I don't think it's a troll.
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Bivi Brothers
Trad climber
Oceanside California
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Jul 27, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
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Sorry definitely not a Troll.
I am just not that active on ST... Although I have had a user account since 2008! More of a MP person myself!
Anyways prior to making this adventure and following every forum about the given subject matter. I decided Super Topo should be one of the first places I sould share such a life changing and radical adventure!!!
I can tell everyone in the Climbing Comunity that all share in the spirit of the activity we love so much. I am waiting to get together with my partner to put our photos together and right a trip report!!🙏
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 27, 2015 - 12:21pm PT
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Glad you didn't die, at least tell us the ratings!!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 27, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
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Sounds like good work.
Looking forward to the report and photos!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jul 27, 2015 - 01:10pm PT
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awesome, this thread finally hatched...
Can't wait to see the topo and the TR!!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 01:16pm PT
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Hurry up, details please! Lol solid work
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 27, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
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Bump to keep up the anticipation fo the TR.
John
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 27, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
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Glad you're safe buddy, we were worried down here with the recent storms. Rest up and extoll us of yer tales :D
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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Jul 27, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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I guess Chongo is too late, huh?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 27, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
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Oh..I hope it's good!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 27, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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Way to get out there and get it.
And two variations by one party sounds like a great idea. Can't wait for the TR.
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socalrocks
climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
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I can personally guarantee that Josh is not trolling here! Major props and I'm super excited to see the trip report! wah pah chaaaa buddy!!!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 27, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
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2/10 troll.
Yeah that's my friend Josh, he actually did it. Nice try tho ;D just going to have to deal with being wrong!
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pelut espania
Big Wall climber
Espania
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Jul 27, 2015 - 07:09pm PT
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Amigos y American Dogs!
How you say, un dia late and un peso short! The route glory es all for Espania and the manz from Espania that make the A6 real for all American dogs!
Viva Espania!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 27, 2015 - 07:18pm PT
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Old Bolt, No Bueno
This needs to be on a T Shirt.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 27, 2015 - 07:24pm PT
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That could not have been a trivial effort Bivi! Thanks for the update.
Looking forward to the report and photos as well!
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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Jul 27, 2015 - 07:28pm PT
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My side hurts; I think I peed myself. The Taco just made up for at least six months of RonA posts
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Jim Herson
climber
Emerald Hills, CA
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Jul 28, 2015 - 09:27am PT
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We applaud the effort. But we were disappointed to find a line of 1/4" (or 5/16"? we forget) button heads linking the left side of the remnants of the ledge (pitch 11) to the base of the 11c corner (pitch 12).
1/4" or 5/16" button heads aren't suitable for a very heavily traveled, beginner trade route. The Regular Route's original 1/4" gear has long since been replaced. The ASCA toils endlessly to rid our climbing areas of these ticking time bombs. Indeed, the climbing community is still reeling from the recent fatal 5/16" button head failure in Owens. Standard 3/8" should have been used to reestablish this iconic climb.
Also, the first two bolts are too far apart. They will quickly be sporting tattered slings.
-Jim
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 28, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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Only way that line of bolts was gonna be 3/8ths is with the use of a power drill.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 28, 2015 - 11:33am PT
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It's easy enough to yard out the bolts and redrill bigger holes. How many bolts are there? I'm still not at all clear what the new line involves.
JL
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 28, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
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Awesome - so some fuking noobs went up there and made a mess. I predict more noobs will rush up there to "fix" it.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jul 28, 2015 - 12:49pm PT
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Only way that line of bolts was gonna be 3/8ths is with the use of a power drill.
Probably preaching to the choir but 3/8" with a hand drill is definitely doable. I suck at it and can get a 2 1/2" in hard granite in under half an hour.
Anyway, 3/8" would have been better but it doesn't seem like a big problem, those button heads will hold hundreds of climbers for years, right? Penty of time for an upgrade.
If option 1 is a bolt ladder for the masses I'm really curious about option two.
I doubt there was any way to do it without catching tons of crap.
Has anyone looked past the new stuff to see how sketchy the rest of those flakes are?
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
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Jul 28, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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Awesome - so some fuking noobs went up there and made a mess.
That was my first thought, too. We even got Royal Robbins on here.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 28, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
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S#it! I know Josh. He's a great guy. Way to get on it. Bring on the TR!
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jul 28, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
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Crossing my fingers that the bolt ladder was designed to work for people under 5'6" too.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Jul 28, 2015 - 08:23pm PT
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We need Clint and Roger to verify the goings-on, IMO.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 28, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
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I'm sure Jim's info is solid.
I'm still waiting for the trip report/photos.
I could guess that being up there for 3 days on the "gap section",
it was mostly work on the free version.
The aid ladder can be upgraded to 3/8" stainless in 1 day on the wall.
I agree with Will - it's much harder to pull 5/16", so I hope it's 1/4"!
If it's 5/16", Roger has a reaming tool which will handle the difficult task of enlarging the hole, once the bolt is pulled.
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Bivi Brothers
Trad climber
Oceanside California
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Jul 29, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Here is a hand drawn Topo to hold everyone over for now. Been working on a TR and should have it submitted tonight. The variation out right we did not successfully complete but investigated and decided this's is how it would probably go and be the new free variation!
As for the button head ladder and how that came about. You will have to wait for the TR. Sorry to keep you all in suspense!!
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 29, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Thanks! Can't wait. Wish I'd got some pics of me sleeping on that ledge before it went all vapor.....
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 29, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Nothing says it quite like "Sketchy giant hanging death flake."
Looks like a blast...
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jul 29, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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How hard are any mandatory free moves? One of the best things about the route was that you could easily do it without doing anything harder than 5.9 A1. It was one of the greatest routes in the valley. Everybody did it at least once.
There used to be a flake in those chimneys above the P11 ledge. You had to undercling around it, and it was kind of spooky. I know that it later fell off, making it easier.
Anyway, did it look clean enough to resume trade route status? No dangerous loose stuff? The topo shows some sketchy loose stuff. I wonder if you could take a prybar and trundle them when nobody is below.
I hope it is still a route for the masses. Just think what would happen if part of the E. Butt or S-S fell off. Scratch them as must do's. That would be a shame.
In this case, I am hoping for bolt ladders to get you through the damaged area. Can't believe I'm for a bolt ladder, but this route is a classic and has been done thousands of times
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 29, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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I am hoping for bolt ladders to get you through the damaged area. Did you look at the topo above?
It answers your questions. (except about the pry bar)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jul 31, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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Holy schmoly!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 31, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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Liberty Cap, the first reported major rock fall in Yos History.
36,000 M cubed
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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Jul 31, 2015 - 11:21am PT
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jul 31, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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Nice (uncharacteristically bland but informative) NatGeo writing from Bisharat!
Bonus points for managing to pack all of the following into one sentence: verb 'scale', 'vertical', 'unclimbable', and 'sheer'.
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Jul 31, 2015 - 11:36am PT
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That is a nice graphic (and I'm wondering why I never thought of putting a person in for scale!), but I should point out that it only shows a few of the largest recent rockfalls and is not a complete charting of the "Biggest rockfalls in Yosemite". For example, a 200,000 m3 rockfall occurred from Taft Point in 1857, a 185,000 m3 rockfall occurred from near Yosemite Falls in 1858, and a 100,000 m3 rockslide occurred at Cookie Cliff in 1982 (http://pubs.usgs.gov/ds/746/ ). The 1996 Happy Isles rockfall was 30,000 m3.
Just wanted to make the point that large rockfalls similar to those shown in the graphic are more common than you might think.
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Jul 31, 2015 - 11:57am PT
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^^^^^
"(1) From Wieczorek et al. (1989): "The May 25 shock sent a rock fall from well up the sharp ridge between Sierra Point and Grizzly Peak, which after hitting the base of the slope proceeded southwesterly as a rock avalanche toward Happy Isles and seriously injured two hikers on the Sierra Point Trail. The 15-30 m wide rock avalanche severed the Sierra Point Trail several times, snapping off trees at their bases and obliterating the trail in a mass of boulders. Most of the rock avalanche stopped shortly before reaching the Nevada Fall Trail. Beyond this point a few large boulders ... bounced or rolled across the trail." (2) From Gilliam (1982): "Below Sierra Point, on the main Vernal Fall trail near Happy Isles, is the 60-ton boulder that cut a swath through the trees as it bounded down from the point in the May earthquake." (3) From Jim Snyder (written commun., January 1990): An earthquake-generated slide destroyed 70% of the Sierra Point Trail, seriously injuring two people. The rock fall came from the crest of the ridge between Sierra Point and Grizzly Peak. (4) From U.S. Geological Survey, National Earthquake Information Center (2004): An earthquake of M6.1 occurred at Mammoth Lakes, California, about 70 km east of Yosemite Valley at about 9 a.m. on 25 May 1980."
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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The current correct split rating is 5.9 C2 or 5.12 A0 ,
assuming nothing significant changed in the pitches above the rockfall.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 31, 2015 - 08:43pm PT
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3.75 million cubic yards . . . holy shit!
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Jul 31, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
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The Flying Monkeys are dying. Half Dome is falling apart. And now this goofy ass trip report. So weird. I don't get it.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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We teenage Pinnacles climbers were incredulous when we broke our first hold in Yosemite on Peruvian Flake. Granite doesn't break. Our perspective of potential danger was quite a ways off from reality.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Clint....does this mean that the route no longer goes free?
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Aug 14, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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All sounds a bit hasty. Not the sharpest"tools" going up so early after you rockfall
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Aug 25, 2015 - 06:06am PT
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Slander thread deleted?
Oh, the humanity!
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| Messages 1 - 131 of total 131 in this topic |
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