Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
mec
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2006 - 10:39am PT
|
Anyone been up on this recently? thinking of doing this next month and curious what type of shape is it in? mostly fixed, solid anchors, etc.
thanks.
|
|
deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
|
Has the real nose even seen a second ascent? I don't think Grossman and Cole ever disclosed the topo. Better ask Ammon...
|
|
mec
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2006 - 02:51pm PT
|
The topo is in Don Reid's Big Wall guide...
|
|
Burt
climber
Sin City
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2006 - 04:04pm PT
|
with a rep like those two, humm... maybe it's hard? Dude in all fairness, if you are worried about anchors and sh#t like that the real nose might not be up your alley? (this is in no way in the same ball park as the nose) I don't know you but with Cole and Grossman on the FA, think Space, Queen of Spades, Jolly Roger, Central Scrutinizer,just to name a few. But if that is your game then by all means send! The topo looks like a lot of gimmie climbing, but I suspect other wise!!
|
|
mec
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
|
the topo looks very mixed, from some really hard climbing to some really easy climbing. only 3 pitches shown of A4, plus some at A3+. Looks like a good long one, with some tough stuff intersperced with some moderate. I am mainly curious if the A4 still exists, or if it is fixed down to A3. But based on what I have read. Not too many people have done it. Actually I have not seen any other report other than the first ascent... I'm looking for a long tough route, but I not quite ready for 10-15 pitches of hard aid right in a row, so based on the topo, this one fit. Just curious if it is still up to snuff.
|
|
BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2006 - 05:22pm PT
|
I remember doing the Nose way back when and being in the upper dihedral. At one point you could look out to the right and see this really long and clean KB or rurp crack, and a bolt with a Leeper hanger on it. Didn't see any fixed stuff, but that was over ten years ago.
Anyone heard of a second ascent?
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2006 - 05:23pm PT
|
Coiler?
|
|
Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Aug 21, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
|
Gerberding and some other folks did the second and provided the topo in the guide.
I think Clay Wadman's most recent right side of El Cap rode map has additional info.
Steve G. and Charles free climbed several sections that are not indicated in the guide. Watch out for the 5.11 face. There's some very demanding climbing on this route. Enjoy!
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:17am PT
|
Always been curious about this route due to the stunning location. There must be a big devil in the details.
Keep up the knowledge and beta if anybody has any. Lots of hard routes have had many ascents. Why has this most central of lines been neglected?
Peace
Karl
|
|
deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:31am PT
|
'cuz it's probably really bad-ass....
|
|
Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:33am PT
|
Can you imagine? The horror.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:37am PT
|
The real reason is the nose is right next to it. The NOSE is the route that really pulls the "eye". The "real nose" doesn't really pull as well, except maybe for the die hard obscure aid climber more or less.
|
|
deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:44am PT
|
Hey Werner, what about Tribal Rite? That's a proud line (I think you gave us the beta for it way back when, when it was still "topo-less").
Then again, then there's Mediterranio, pretty obscure.
Who knows what goes on in the minds of people intimately fixated on minute aspects of big pieces of stone?
Looking for the ultimate position, I guess...
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:45am PT
|
Real Nose = WoS II
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:48am PT
|
Tribal rite?
Just another nailup, you know the speil John.
As Bridwell said many moons ago. "We must nail every crack on El Cap."
-:)
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:48am PT
|
Please Mr. Fish, what do you mean?
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 12:49am PT
|
Hahahaha
Russ you're going to twist Steve ..........
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:00am PT
|
The Real Nose or as I prefer to call it, The Competitive Edge is a great route. Position is entirely what this route's about. I first saw the line on the back of an old Ascent that featured a beautiful thin dihedral passing by the Great Roof just around the corner to the right. As it usually works out, by the time I got to the section in the pic, it was bottoming arrow tips and copperheads and rather nasty. But the route itself climbs on some very good rock and is out there.
When Charlie Porter and Bev Johnson climbed the Grape Race, rumor has it that they were squabbling badly and chose to bail rather than continue on new ground up our route.
Another oddity about this line is that Charles and I discovered a 17-dowel ladder already in place low down on the route at the first blank section. According to Werner, Walter Rosenthal had started up this route quite awhile earlier before being talked out of the project by locals concerned about excessive bolting.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:03am PT
|
hahaha... thought that might get someone going...never figured it would raise the dead in HRH Grossman! Holy crap man... where you been? You missed all the shootin' and wrasslin' (but I bet you got an ear-full!)
You still tall? And bold? And all quiet like? Still running those Chouinard pants? Smart money says, "yes!" Good to see ya on here.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:09am PT
|
Nostalgia brings us all back.
As for the Crap and how to sling it, stay tuned.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:33am PT
|
Ha, good to see you too Steve.
I never forget you running up the falls trail to the top of the Captain to rappel the Nose to scarf the booty gear, all in less than a few hours.
|
|
seamus mcshane
climber
|
|
|
Aug 22, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
|
Kevin Andrews and Kenny Bokelund may have the second ascent of Mediterraneo. 2000? These guys are as reticent as they come...
|
|
Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2006 - 02:06pm PT
|
Really funny Russ. Those pants have been retired. Whew!
|
|
elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
|
The Ripple is one of the coolest looking features on El Cap.
Now that is positioning!
Grape Race to Real Nose is the aid line that draws my eye.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2006 - 11:32am PT
|
"The "real nose" doesn't really pull as well, except maybe for the die hard obscure aid climber more or less."
That would definitely be me - a die hard obscure aid climber more or less - but definitely more "less" than "more"! I have always been interested in repeating The Real Nose = The Competitive Edge. I'm all outfitted and sponsored by the ASCA [Tom and I recently replaced a bunch of rusty old quarter-inch anchor bolts on Cosmos] so I would be prepared to do the same for Steve's route. Incidentally Steve, Jolly Roger remains my all-time favourite El Cap route.
"Watch out for the 5.11 face." Uh-oh. This would refer to the "less" bit mentioned above. I think I might need a Rope Gun. Or can you hook through this bit?
Is Grape Race to Real Nose considered legit? What would you call such a route? I always thought that Iron Son [Iron Hawk to Native Son] was cheating, because you skip the cruxes of both walls. In fact, if I had known it existed when I soloed Iron Hawk as my first solo, I definitely would have used it! [I later soloed Native Son]
|
|
shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
|
|
bump for a cool thread. interesting to note that grossman was first enticed onto this line by the same ascent photo that had enticed me 30 or 40 years ago. ss
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Funny how much power this Jim Stuart photo from the back cover of Ascent 1973 has.
To climb what is shown was some very spicy, shallow aid climbing. Not quite the Crack of Dreams but I still remember being happy to be by that pitch!
Wild to be out on the bridge of the Captain's Nose. HARRRRRRRRRRRR!
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
Cool route Steve! Thanks for the pic!!
I always thought that Iron Son [Iron Hawk to Native Son] was cheating, because you skip the cruxes of both walls. In fact, if I had known it existed when I soloed Iron Hawk as my first solo, I definitely would have used it! [I later soloed Native Son]
Pete- If you did Native Hawk it would be bad ass because you would do both cruxes!
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
sweet photo!
classic thread
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Wow - drooling at the look of that corner. Too bad we'll have to reclimb the bottom pitches. I'd be really crying if someone had pulled ropes on that next A4 pitch - it looks to be the Real Deal.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Trouble is you aren't the Real Deal Spacepig so Dream On!
No respectable party needs a piss-stained hack like you along for the ride.
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
Ouch!!! LMFAO!!!
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Wow. Well, at least I still climb walls. 48 El Cap routes at current count.
Not fast, mind you, but I still manage to wobble to the top most of the time...
And you shut up, Bill. If it wasn't for you spotting my brand new and expensive glasses lying on the bottom of the Merced River and telling me where to dive - after I did a gainer off the bridge while forgetting I was still wearing them - I'd be blind right now!
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
Man you guys are killing me right now! My face is sore from grinning so hard. Funny stuff!
Pete- That was unbelievable that I spotted your glasses down in the water that day! How was that even possible to spot wire frame glasses sitting on the bottom of the Merced? A good recovery it was!
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Wow, speaking of guys who don't climb walls anymore, look who crawled out from under a rock. The quintessential crab-napper himself. [At least I got my crab back]
How *did* you do that, Bill? [I bet girls ask you that all the time....]
.... and boys too. hyuck hyuck hyuck.
Hey, it's Friday night, why don't you guys grab a drink and come join me on the Friday night post?
|
|
hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
|
|
damn. that bitch is fine.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!